I would never have the time, skills, or tools to do this myself. So I would most likely be paying someone to do it. But I really appreciate your taking the time to show us how it's done.
You wont learn if u dont try. All men need to have tools anyways. Just do it over time slowly over time. Instead of paying someone. Use that money to buy tools
@@FatGuyBuilds I unfortunately don't have the space (live in a 100+ unit building). The limited space I have is for the tools I need to manage my real estate properties. So when it comes to cars, my time and money is better spent paying someone else to do and move on.
@@hellodzheng00 sounds like a depressing life living in a tiny apartment. I hope you get to a point where you can upgrade soon. I also hope you are not in shit hole cali or new york.
@@FatGuyBuildsand no, I'm in Boston. Pre-COVID, we traveled to different countries to experience their food and culture. There's a whole world out there. My apartment is for sleep.
Just completed this with Steeda springs, appreciate the input! One question though the top seats of the front struts need to be “clocked” in a certain direction (props to ford for not making them one-way install ‘eye roll’). I removed/reinstalled both sides before running into problems with the spring binding up on the one side and regrettably couldn’t reference the opposite side to know if i had reinstalled properly. Can you confirm the orientation of each top seat? There is a small green dash that points to one of the three bolts used to tighten down the top of the strut if you look directly down the main center nut. Any comments/help would be great so i could confirm i have it correct now
I have a 2017 explorer platinum which I want to lower with Steeda lowering kit. After lowering does it need to get aligned to factory spec? Second question is wouldn’t factory stabilizer links and shocks be affected by lowering vehicle? I have no idea. Just don’t want to create a problem in the future
Crazy question, would cutting a coil front and back to bring it lower be ok? Ive heard 1 coil is safe enough, anymore and you start putting stress on the springs and of course change the rates as well. Well cutting a coil would change it too but i dunno, was wondering what would be a good method to get them sitting a tad bit lower.
since when are suspension bolts ever stretch bolts.... "tq to yield". please show proof. you can google the TQ. i just made all the small ones tight then i tell you what i tq'd the large one to. 80ft/lb &100ft/lb
Ford lists most of their bolts as one time use due to the pre-applied loc-tite. At the dealership they'll replace...everyone else will just grab their bottle of loc-tite.
Are these springs worth it? Do they actually make the handling of the explorer better? I want to get these but have heard they are just lower floaty stock springs essentially.
@@kennyrichard1167 wow, i would have to check my last invoice. but it was somewhere in the 350-450 max. might as well do some other parts at the same time to dsave on the total labor
From reading some of the comments and learning from your video, I've learned you just can't entertain some people. Hopefully TH-cam will see this and take action.
@@FatGuyBuilds either way, what i do with my money is my business. I am not a mechanic and i have no interest in fixing or learning to fix. I would rather leave it to the professionals and have more time to workout, ride motorcycle, live a healthy lifestyle, try it.
@@snakebite6511 my life is fine. i have a 2400sq/ft shop. bigger house. good job. skills that i use to help people. if all you do in life at work is paperwork, because you have no mechanical abilities, then i feel bad for you. your woman is probably wearing the pants. you sound like a beta male.
I would never have the time, skills, or tools to do this myself. So I would most likely be paying someone to do it. But I really appreciate your taking the time to show us how it's done.
You wont learn if u dont try. All men need to have tools anyways. Just do it over time slowly over time. Instead of paying someone. Use that money to buy tools
@@FatGuyBuilds I unfortunately don't have the space (live in a 100+ unit building). The limited space I have is for the tools I need to manage my real estate properties. So when it comes to cars, my time and money is better spent paying someone else to do and move on.
@@hellodzheng00 sounds like a depressing life living in a tiny apartment. I hope you get to a point where you can upgrade soon. I also hope you are not in shit hole cali or new york.
@@FatGuyBuildsat $1,200/sf, my apartment is far from depressing
@@FatGuyBuildsand no, I'm in Boston. Pre-COVID, we traveled to different countries to experience their food and culture. There's a whole world out there. My apartment is for sleep.
great job
Thanks for watching!
Just completed this with Steeda springs, appreciate the input! One question though the top seats of the front struts need to be “clocked” in a certain direction (props to ford for not making them one-way install ‘eye roll’). I removed/reinstalled both sides before running into problems with the spring binding up on the one side and regrettably couldn’t reference the opposite side to know if i had reinstalled properly. Can you confirm the orientation of each top seat? There is a small green dash that points to one of the three bolts used to tighten down the top of the strut if you look directly down the main center nut. Any comments/help would be great so i could confirm i have it correct now
it is symmetrical. dont worry about it.
Hey, thanks for the time.....have you notice any negative effects of spring change?? ie vibration, tracking, crashing over bumps? thanks
Rides amazing. Even tows 5500lbs excellent
Looks great! Did you need to calibrate the cameras and driving sensors? Was the ride more rigid?
Sensors were fine. Barely stiffer. But handled better in the curves.
Did you run into any problems with the rear alignment? Just ordered my springs and trying to plan ahead
Nope
I have a 2017 explorer platinum which I want to lower with Steeda lowering kit. After lowering does it need to get aligned to factory spec? Second question is wouldn’t factory stabilizer links and shocks be affected by lowering vehicle? I have no idea. Just don’t want to create a problem in the future
Yes u need an alignment.
There is eniugh functional suspension travel that a 2" drop will no affect it.
@@FatGuyBuilds thanks!!!!
2011-19 will need eccentric bolts front and rear to regain factory camber
Do you know how much of a drop u got once the springs completely settled?
2"
Crazy question, would cutting a coil front and back to bring it lower be ok? Ive heard 1 coil is safe enough, anymore and you start putting stress on the springs and of course change the rates as well. Well cutting a coil would change it too but i dunno, was wondering what would be a good method to get them sitting a tad bit lower.
No that is usually bad because u get rid of the flat area of the spring when u do that.
Nothing other than buying new springs is a good idea. Trust me... i grew up in detroit, i have seen it all.. lol. Everything else turns out bad
@@FatGuyBuilds lol i thought so. Hopefully something more aggressive comes out in the near future
Bro i have a question steeda or h& r is better for the st?
I feel that H&R is better.
Can you list the torque for the bolts?
And are there some strech-bolts which need to be replaced?
since when are suspension bolts ever stretch bolts.... "tq to yield". please show proof. you can google the TQ. i just made all the small ones tight then i tell you what i tq'd the large one to. 80ft/lb &100ft/lb
@@FatGuyBuilds ford escape @front suspension for example.
Audi UCA bolts etc.
But thanks for the Video!
@@M.P-L never heard of this. never had issues. i will contact ford to find out. thanks.
Ford lists most of their bolts as one time use due to the pre-applied loc-tite. At the dealership they'll replace...everyone else will just grab their bottle of loc-tite.
Are these springs worth it? Do they actually make the handling of the explorer better? I want to get these but have heard they are just lower floaty stock springs essentially.
Handles much better especially after adding the steeda swaybars
@@FatGuyBuilds thank you!
Update I ordered the steeda lowering springs instead
The end-link torx size should be T45. I watched this and one other video both stating T40, but it was sloppy, went up to T45 and it was perfect.
Thanks for watching!
I wish they made more than 1” lowering springs
there is no way to make big alignment changes so it would be bad. until we get other mods
@@FatGuyBuilds i got em anyway it looks a lot better lowered
For the DIY mechanic the 23mm reference for the rear lower control arm, it’s 15/16 as well 😎
A decent diy mechanic will have both standard AND metric tools.
Thanks for watching!
Well did you get better gas milage????
Yes about 0.5-1mpg
@@FatGuyBuilds thanks bro
@@FatGuyBuilds springs will eventually pay them selves off
Curious how much you’d charge someone to do this?
you in ABQ, NM? i usually charge about 350$
@@FatGuyBuilds I’m not but I might come down sometime. I’m in the the northeast and have received quotes as much as $1500 to install. Ridiculous
@@kennyrichard1167 wow, i would have to check my last invoice. but it was somewhere in the 350-450 max. might as well do some other parts at the same time to dsave on the total labor
Why not just drop the subframe just like the Musrangs? It looks to be the same idea.
Not needed. But sure i guess you could do that
@@FatGuyBuilds looking at alldata, it seems like it would be quicker. I guess we'll find out.
From reading some of the comments and learning from your video, I've learned you just can't entertain some people. Hopefully TH-cam will see this and take action.
I appreciate that... please click like on all my videos, please!
Need new shocks. Different ones
Look for Koni yellow shock/struts
Why not just lower the subframe a bit? Do one side at a time
thanks for watching!
Did u have a lot of problems with the rear?? I hear it’s a bitch!! Front looks easy but rear has me worried!
Make sure u have pry bars
Thats stupid, who wants to do that much work, just pay the dealer.
pay the dealer 125$ per hour for 6 hours? you wanna waste 750$? plus the alignment after? you must be rich or stupid...
@@FatGuyBuilds either way, what i do with my money is my business. I am not a mechanic and i have no interest in fixing or learning to fix. I would rather leave it to the professionals and have more time to workout, ride motorcycle, live a healthy lifestyle, try it.
@@snakebite6511 that is good. you are keeping mechanic shops open. but dont talk shit to normal alpha males who work on their own shit.
@@snakebite6511 my life is fine. i have a 2400sq/ft shop. bigger house. good job. skills that i use to help people. if all you do in life at work is paperwork, because you have no mechanical abilities, then i feel bad for you. your woman is probably wearing the pants. you sound like a beta male.
@@FatGuyBuilds working on your on vehicle makes you Alpha? bahahthahahahaha