Have a look at the Pentel Orenz line of pencils. They’re available in lead sizes as small as 0.2 mm, and feature a sliding sleeve to protect the lead. If you end up getting one and don’t read the instructions, be sure not to extend the lead passed the sliding lead sleeve. It features a very slightly rounded tip so as not to be too scratchy, but that will vary with your paper and how much pressure you write with. If you want to get real fancy, the Orenz Nero has all the features of the Orenz, plus auto advancing. You will almost never break 0.2 or 0.3 lead again.
The Orenz is a solid recommendation for users in general. I prefer the P203 Sharp, but that's because I know by instinct how little lead I need to expose, so the Orenz's safety is redundant.
You made me want to get a Pentel P203 with some Ain steins!!! Good job on that drawing, I love the tree, the thin flowers on the base of the tree! I guess I have to get a P203, I haven't yet, because I thought I would always break the tip and mess up everything while drawing. Ainstein the way to go!!!
Hey Greek. I got a P203 recently (completing my P200 Sharp set) and it's a real pleasure to use. Although I haven't tested it with Ain Stein lead yet, I'm still running with the SHP leads that came in it.
0.3 is a construction line pencil you use the balance of the pencil tilt forward and you draw the line with the weight of the pencil if you want them lighter get a lighter pencil 0.5 is also good for construction but mainly used for centre lines and wall grades you can get fine liners 0.005 now up the scale pencilling in lines all outside construction lines are 0.7 .0.9, 1.3 2.0 you can use 2mm if you are comfortable its whatever suits you really
My trick to never breaking a 0.3mm 2B lead... using a Pentel Orenz pencil. The sliding anti-break sleeve works amazingly well, makes me wish 0.3mm leads came in 4B and beyond.
Thanks for this sir. Helped me decide to grab the ain stein lead. If you had an affiliate link to Amazon I would have used your link. Instead,you get a subscription. Have a nice weekend 🙏
5:12 I can already see your problem: that's far too much exposed lead. For writing (no idea sketching or drawing, I'm not an artist), my rule of thumb is to expose beyond the sleeve only a length equal to the lead's width. I always did it with 0.5mm and it works just as well with my 0.3mm; also do it with my 0.7 and 0.9 pencils, for practice since it's not strictly necessary. I have a heavy hand and haven't broken a single lead since I started this. Trust the sleeve, let its length work to your advantage.
Refilling mechanical pencils by pushing the lead through the tip is a sure way to break the lead, especially on the 0.3mm. Even if you don't break it, you can easily weaken/fracture it from lateral pressure. Are you aware that the proper way to refill is to remove the eraser and just drop the lead into the tube? Also, Ain Stein is pronounced "Einstein", as in Albert...
Rules to avoid breakage: - For 0.7 = use from 2B and harder - For 0.5 = use from HB and harder - For 0.3 = use from 2H and harder Bear in mind that some brands use tricks. For instance: - Pentel Ain Stein = they claim to be harder, but they also are lighter, so what they actually did is not applying magical formulas, but instead just renaming their grades down the scale (they renamed a standard 4H as 2H, a standard 2H as HB, a standard HB as 2B, etc, and then saying their leads are harder.) - Pilot Neox Graphite = they claim to be darker, but they also are softer, so what they actually did is not applying magical formulas, but instead just renaming their grades up the scale (they renamed a standard 2B as HB, a standard HB as 2H, a standard 2H as 4H, etc, and then saying their leads are darker.)
Actually the harder leads are more brittle, meaning they'll snap much more often than softer leads. Think of that as glass vs. rubber. Glass is harder and thus fragile, rubber is soft and ductile. Study some material engineering before claiming such fake statements.
@@PedroSilva-ie1ov Actually you don't know what you're talking about. You're not right when it comes to pencil leads (graphite) in such a small diameters. Empiric tests say it all. Graphite itself is a soft material. Although I'm a B. Degree scientist, it doesn't matter my scientific background to understand why a harder graphite lead breaks (snaps) less than a soft one. We are not talking here about different stainless steel alloys' hardnesses on extremely thin sharp knives' edges sir (where, certainly, softer steels' edges wear faster, dent more easily but don't chip and, on the other hand, harder steels' edges retain or hold sharpening longer, don't usually dent but they easily chip.) They are totally different materials (densities, chemical properties: strength of chemical bonds), thicknesses, etc, and, therefore, plasticity, elasticity and break resistance work differently. Softer (>B) leads (alone or wooden cased: pencils) are more fragile and brittle (because soft graphite is not consistent and it's not elastic and the more pure the graphite is, the more it brittles!), that's why all companies make their softer pencils with thicker leads, to give them more resistance. Harder (>H) leads (alone or wooden cased: pencils) are less fragile and brittle (because their higher content of clay basically provides them more consistency: they're harder, with a higher module of elasticity and, thus, higher resistance against breakage), that's why all companies make their harder pencils with thiner leads, because they don't really need to be thicker to achieve more resistance. I suggest you to be better informed (even do your own tests) or, at least, use your common sense (if you have) before opening your mouth (or typing with your fingers).
@@mauriciolacruz u must be joking, hard does not equal to strength tf u on? breakage is inversal to bending, if a material breaks, it doesn't bend, if it bends, rarely breaks. Hard lead no bend, break. Soft lead bend, break less.
You have reached the point of no return my friend.
Okeedokee
Pentel is a Japanese company, and Japan never misses when it comes to technology, even with their stationary products.
True true. Shalom. Arigato.
Bold claim, but I agree that their stationery is ver well-designed.
Especially*
Have a look at the Pentel Orenz line of pencils. They’re available in lead sizes as small as 0.2 mm, and feature a sliding sleeve to protect the lead. If you end up getting one and don’t read the instructions, be sure not to extend the lead passed the sliding lead sleeve. It features a very slightly rounded tip so as not to be too scratchy, but that will vary with your paper and how much pressure you write with. If you want to get real fancy, the Orenz Nero has all the features of the Orenz, plus auto advancing. You will almost never break 0.2 or 0.3 lead again.
Will do. Thanks bunches.
@@Mity_Moose hope you like it, or them if you buy more than one.
The Orenz is a solid recommendation for users in general. I prefer the P203 Sharp, but that's because I know by instinct how little lead I need to expose, so the Orenz's safety is redundant.
You made me want to get a Pentel P203 with some Ain steins!!! Good job on that drawing, I love the tree, the thin flowers on the base of the tree! I guess I have to get a P203, I haven't yet, because I thought I would always break the tip and mess up everything while drawing. Ainstein the way to go!!!
Go for it!
Hey Greek. I got a P203 recently (completing my P200 Sharp set) and it's a real pleasure to use. Although I haven't tested it with Ain Stein lead yet, I'm still running with the SHP leads that came in it.
You could use the softer HB leads you have inside “shielded” pencils like the orenz or zebra delguard
You're pushing the lead out to far on the .3mm.
Oh and you can load 3 or four in them pull the cap and the rubber off and drop them in
0.3 is a construction line pencil you use the balance of the pencil tilt forward and you draw the line with the weight of the pencil if you want them lighter get a lighter pencil 0.5 is also good for construction but mainly used for centre lines and wall grades you can get fine liners 0.005 now up the scale pencilling in lines all outside construction lines are 0.7 .0.9, 1.3 2.0 you can use 2mm if you are comfortable its whatever suits you really
I’ve only seen blueprints, but it makes perfect sense that different size leads would be used on the original. Interesting, thanks Tony!
My trick to never breaking a 0.3mm 2B lead... using a Pentel Orenz pencil. The sliding anti-break sleeve works amazingly well, makes me wish 0.3mm leads came in 4B and beyond.
they'd wear out so blindingly fast but I'd buy that grade of lead too
New Pentel ain (not ain stein) is more hard and darker.
Also the new package have better usability. They released it last year. Maybe try this one
Thanks for this sir. Helped me decide to grab the ain stein lead. If you had an affiliate link to Amazon I would have used your link. Instead,you get a subscription. Have a nice weekend 🙏
My pay is the satisfaction and pride of a job well done. Sounds corny, but you just paid me. Thanks.
5:12 I can already see your problem: that's far too much exposed lead.
For writing (no idea sketching or drawing, I'm not an artist), my rule of thumb is to expose beyond the sleeve only a length equal to the lead's width. I always did it with 0.5mm and it works just as well with my 0.3mm; also do it with my 0.7 and 0.9 pencils, for practice since it's not strictly necessary. I have a heavy hand and haven't broken a single lead since I started this.
Trust the sleeve, let its length work to your advantage.
❤. To your channel.
Awe thank you 🙏
Can you please provide link for the nicpro lead
I see it for 10 US on amazon
Great review. Thanks!
Refilling mechanical pencils by pushing the lead through the tip is a sure way to break the lead, especially on the 0.3mm. Even if you don't break it, you can easily weaken/fracture it from lateral pressure. Are you aware that the proper way to refill is to remove the eraser and just drop the lead into the tube? Also, Ain Stein is pronounced "Einstein", as in Albert...
Yes I know all that. And, thanks for emphasizing. And, good catch.
I'm too heavy handed for anything less than 0.5mm. Ein Stein is good along with Uni Nano-Dia.
Me too. But, but, but.
Use the Orenz. The retractable sleeve protects the lead from your writing pressure.
I have that kind but two of both 0.5 and 0.7
Rules to avoid breakage:
- For 0.7 = use from 2B and harder
- For 0.5 = use from HB and harder
- For 0.3 = use from 2H and harder
Bear in mind that some brands use tricks. For instance:
- Pentel Ain Stein = they claim to be harder, but they also are lighter, so what they actually did is not applying magical formulas, but instead just renaming their grades down the scale (they renamed a standard 4H as 2H, a standard 2H as HB, a standard HB as 2B, etc, and then saying their leads are harder.)
- Pilot Neox Graphite = they claim to be darker, but they also are softer, so what they actually did is not applying magical formulas, but instead just renaming their grades up the scale (they renamed a standard 2B as HB, a standard HB as 2H, a standard 2H as 4H, etc, and then saying their leads are darker.)
Actually the harder leads are more brittle, meaning they'll snap much more often than softer leads. Think of that as glass vs. rubber. Glass is harder and thus fragile, rubber is soft and ductile. Study some material engineering before claiming such fake statements.
@@PedroSilva-ie1ov
Actually you don't know what you're talking about.
You're not right when it comes to pencil leads (graphite) in such a small diameters. Empiric tests say it all.
Graphite itself is a soft material.
Although I'm a B. Degree scientist, it doesn't matter my scientific background to understand why a harder graphite lead breaks (snaps) less than a soft one.
We are not talking here about different stainless steel alloys' hardnesses on extremely thin sharp knives' edges sir (where, certainly, softer steels' edges wear faster, dent more easily but don't chip and, on the other hand, harder steels' edges retain or hold sharpening longer, don't usually dent but they easily chip.)
They are totally different materials (densities, chemical properties: strength of chemical bonds), thicknesses, etc, and, therefore, plasticity, elasticity and break resistance work differently.
Softer (>B) leads (alone or wooden cased: pencils) are more fragile and brittle (because soft graphite is not consistent and it's not elastic and the more pure the graphite is, the more it brittles!), that's why all companies make their softer pencils with thicker leads, to give them more resistance.
Harder (>H) leads (alone or wooden cased: pencils) are less fragile and brittle (because their higher content of clay basically provides them more consistency: they're harder, with a higher module of elasticity and, thus, higher resistance against breakage), that's why all companies make their harder pencils with thiner leads, because they don't really need to be thicker to achieve more resistance.
I suggest you to be better informed (even do your own tests) or, at least, use your common sense (if you have) before opening your mouth (or typing with your fingers).
@@mauriciolacruz Thank you for letting us know, But is there any recommendations of what lead brand should we buy 🙏🏻♥️
@@mauriciolacruz u must be joking, hard does not equal to strength tf u on? breakage is inversal to bending, if a material breaks, it doesn't bend, if it bends, rarely breaks. Hard lead no bend, break. Soft lead bend, break less.
@@我我我我 pentel