The fact that you dont need any special tools to tear these engines completely down is mind blowing!!! Im definitely going to start workin on skis instead of dirtbikes/ quads😂 Definitely seems less stressfull.
I have a stock 1998 JS550 that starts right up when cold but dies after 15 minutes of riding. Then just cranks over, but won’t start until you let it sit 15 minutes. Rebuilding stock carb didn’t change anything. Planning to do a compression test & check fuel lines tomorrow. Any suggestions?? Thank you!
@@NastyMoto i gotcha. how much did you pack? ive been told that you need to do that. Im currently blasting an engine so i can powdercoat and put together
Nasty Moto oh gotcha, my ski is a bitch to start and will start if I lean the ski to the left in the water. Though that was 2 years ago. A lot of people said to replace the seals. Probably will, I noticed in the pistons on my motor while the head was still built that it had a little wiggle room. Have you experienced that?
I have actually, usually they can have the slightest amount of play in my experience. But if you’re getting piston slap then that’s obviously a problem. As long as the compression tests good, then I wouldn’t worry about it.
Nasty Moto piston slap as in hitting the cylinder walls or the cylinder head? Also before I opened the motor I had almost 120psi holding in the cylinder. Dropped slightly. Kinda wet too on the cylinder head
frankie Johnson piston slap as in the motor sounds like she’s about to blow. 120 sounds like it would be in great shape and I would just leave it alone at that point
Hey bro nice video. I really need help on knowing what the cylinder studs torques spec should be It would really help if you could respind quick because I can't find the torques specs anywhere. Thank you
@@NastyMoto Oh btw did you take off the pistons to seat the rings into the cylinders or were you able to keep the pistons on the rods and push them in because I am having a very hard time having the pistons seat into the cylinder. Thanks, your a big help
Bhunt I found the easiest way to do it is to keep the pistons on the rods and put the cylinders on if they are single ring pistons, double ring pistons are easier to stick in the cylinder and then put on the rod if that makes sense.
Nice video, like the one guy below I have an 89 JS550 that won't start or stay running. Like him if I turn it on the left side I can get it to fire eventually but yeah it's not fun! I heard about doing a bottom end rebuild but never looked into it until now. Going to be looking into this more. Where did you get your parts from?
Thank you! Yep I would suspect crank seals, bottom ends are super easy to do. With basic tools, a flywheel puller, a gasket kit and some yamabond. You can freshen up a old motor. I would suggest running a compression test just to make sure your top end is strong. As far as parts, I got everything from amazon. Thanks for the support man!
Way way way too much case sealant! All that excess that you see squeezed out on the outside? The same amount is squeezed out on the inside all over the inside of the crankcase which is exactly what you do not want.
@@NastyMoto I guess with crankcases that old a little extra sealant would probably be a lot of people’s first thought but with mating surfaces that are machined, the fit is so tight and flat that just a tiny skim of sealant is all that you need to seal up all of the tiny scratches, tool marks, and micro imperfections in the metal. It’s not the end of the world. It was worth a shot cleaning everything up and throwing it all back together. If it runs, that’s great and you saved your cash! and if not, then you will have it back apart in no time to get it going again with some new parts. You are going to be able to rebuild a short block in record time now! :) Can’t wait to see more ski videos!
The fact that you dont need any special tools to tear these engines completely down is mind blowing!!! Im definitely going to start workin on skis instead of dirtbikes/ quads😂 Definitely seems less stressfull.
What did you clean the bottom end cases? How did you do it? This video is helping a lot btw thank you!
Hey Sir, does I still Need the oem rev limiter when I use the sbn 44 carb instead of the bn44?
I have a stock 1998 JS550 that starts right up when cold but dies after 15 minutes of riding. Then just cranks over, but won’t start until you let it sit 15 minutes.
Rebuilding stock carb didn’t change anything.
Planning to do a compression test & check fuel lines tomorrow. Any suggestions?? Thank you!
Stator
@@Gannon777 thank you, ill look into that!
when you did the crank seals did you pack with grease? or just put grease on them to get them to set and seal in the correct spots?
I packed them, figured it couldn’t hurt anything.
@@NastyMoto i gotcha. how much did you pack? ive been told that you need to do that. Im currently blasting an engine so i can powdercoat and put together
Probably filled them up about halfway up on the inside of the seals, then put a thin layer on the whole thing
What kind of grease are you using?
Just any all purpose grease will work
Ten4 thanks man!
what was the reason for redoing the seals?
They go bad after a long time and can cause a lean running engine which can lead it to blow up. Just some preventative maintenance
Nasty Moto oh gotcha, my ski is a bitch to start and will start if I lean the ski to the left in the water. Though that was 2 years ago. A lot of people said to replace the seals. Probably will, I noticed in the pistons on my motor while the head was still built that it had a little wiggle room. Have you experienced that?
I have actually, usually they can have the slightest amount of play in my experience. But if you’re getting piston slap then that’s obviously a problem. As long as the compression tests good, then I wouldn’t worry about it.
Nasty Moto piston slap as in hitting the cylinder walls or the cylinder head? Also before I opened the motor I had almost 120psi holding in the cylinder. Dropped slightly. Kinda wet too on the cylinder head
frankie Johnson piston slap as in the motor sounds like she’s about to blow. 120 sounds like it would be in great shape and I would just leave it alone at that point
How is it timed?
Just stock timing, there’s a small line on the stator that you line up with the cases
awesome video ill be doing the same thing soon
Heck ya, hopefully be tearing it up soon!
Hey bro nice video. I really need help on knowing what the cylinder studs torques spec should be It would really help if you could respind quick because I can't find the torques specs anywhere. Thank you
Thanks man, honestly I never torqued the cylinder studs, I just put loctite on them and snugged them up.
@@NastyMoto Thanks man, I didn't even know if they needed to be torqued. Thanks for the fast reply, saved a lot of head ache
Bhunt yeah man no problem, I do know the head nuts and bottom end bolts need to be torqued to 18 foot pounds!
@@NastyMoto Oh btw did you take off the pistons to seat the rings into the cylinders or were you able to keep the pistons on the rods and push them in because I am having a very hard time having the pistons seat into the cylinder. Thanks, your a big help
Bhunt I found the easiest way to do it is to keep the pistons on the rods and put the cylinders on if they are single ring pistons, double ring pistons are easier to stick in the cylinder and then put on the rod if that makes sense.
Nice video, like the one guy below I have an 89 JS550 that won't start or stay running. Like him if I turn it on the left side I can get it to fire eventually but yeah it's not fun! I heard about doing a bottom end rebuild but never looked into it until now. Going to be looking into this more. Where did you get your parts from?
Thank you! Yep I would suspect crank seals, bottom ends are super easy to do. With basic tools, a flywheel puller, a gasket kit and some yamabond. You can freshen up a old motor. I would suggest running a compression test just to make sure your top end is strong. As far as parts, I got everything from amazon. Thanks for the support man!
Way way way too much case sealant! All that excess that you see squeezed out on the outside? The same amount is squeezed out on the inside all over the inside of the crankcase which is exactly what you do not want.
That makes sense!
@@NastyMoto I guess with crankcases that old a little extra sealant would probably be a lot of people’s first thought but with mating surfaces that are machined, the fit is so tight and flat that just a tiny skim of sealant is all that you need to seal up all of the tiny scratches, tool marks, and micro imperfections in the metal. It’s not the end of the world. It was worth a shot cleaning everything up and throwing it all back together. If it runs, that’s great and you saved your cash! and if not, then you will have it back apart in no time to get it going again with some new parts. You are going to be able to rebuild a short block in record time now! :) Can’t wait to see more ski videos!
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U see my new video
I’ll check it out!