Dang, that is high praise. Thank you very much! We plan on adding these to our video/podcast rotation so hopefully we'll have more of them soon. Thanks for listening and Stay Tuned!
That last situation hit home for me, I have a similar issues in both of my 04 Forester XT's where there is schmutz accumulating on the compressor side turbo outlet that connects to the intercooler. Ive always had this for as long as I can remember since I bought it at 50K miles, I'm second owner of this SG6 with 4eat, and get the P0457 Code intermittently. I've replaced the PCV system entirely at least twice (including the purge solenoid), installed an IAG Street AOS, and have even replaced the turbo to intercooler hose as I feared it was just not holding up anymore. The problem persists still at 265K daily driven miles (original motor). I don't mind clearing the codes with my Cobb AP, but the it does make my heart sink anytime I get in the car and see that amber light on the dash. Interestingly, my 5spd with 140K miles (also vf39 swapped with supporting mods) has the same schmutz, but no P0457 code. Ever. Insight appreciated.
That is really interesting. Especially the difference between the Auto and MT car. The car from this question is local to us, so we may just have to get it to the shop to see if we can find any other details if we can get our hands on it. Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
Gotta say this issue has not been a fun one to find!! Yep, that 04 Fozzy is mine. I love the smoke down idea so that's next on the list. These guys and the ideas they have are super helpful!
Really appreciate the tips with my 04 Forester! A smoke test is definitely the next step as that should point me in a good direction. Beyond thankful for the help guys and a great episode!!!
I highly suggest putting your gas tank under negative pressure if at all possible, mine has the same code that I couldn’t figure out for the life of me, and it ended up being found out as the rollover relief valve gasket on the top of the saddle tank. When suction was applied, it whistles from between the 2 access doors to the tank. For reference, I also have an 04 forester xt. However, for the record I have not fixed the issue because I don’t wanna drop the tank
I also have a 04 fxt and I've had to replace the vent valve, filler, neck, the valve on the top backside of the filler neck and the gas cap to get rid of the large EVAP code living in a state with a lot of rust. Those are the first things to go
We have actually reached out to Mike from MotoIQ a couple of times, but we haven't been able to make it work yet. We'll keep after it because we would love to talk to him for sure. Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
I have a very similar issue with my AFR under light throttle low rpm. AFR bounces back and forth until I give it more throttle. I cleaned the MAF, which seemed to help, but it still does it a little.
Thanks for the comment Chuck. Have you checked for vacuum leaks, or smoke tested the car yet? I'd definitely be curious to see if you find any leaks that need attention. Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
We had a super similar issue with one of our 02 WRXs. EJ20 JDM TGV-less intake manifold HKS ELH Full exhaust Cobb 3 port OEM JDM pink injectors Genuine Walbro 255 Oem “E” type bypass valve TD04 turbo rebuilt by Blouch ALL vacuum lines and PCV valve and hoses replaced with new OEM New OEM front O2, MAF, knock sensor, engine wiring harness, ground(battery) harness, temp sensor, coil packs, spark plugs, etc. All genuine OEM from the dealer. Tuned by Shinji. Car ran/runs absolutely wonderfully for a stock turbo car. No CEL’s ever. Car ran perfectly for a year after being tuned. Literally zero issues ever. Since they were still available, I decided to purchase a brand new OEM throttle body assembly that also came with the new OEM TPS, MAP, and IACV sensors. I replaced it for no other reason than to just have fresh, brand new sensors that may become discontinued at some point. Shortly after that, the car began have that crazy “just barely part throttle-no boost” surging and AFR’s jumping in sync to the surging. After smoke testing and finding nothing, I unplugged the front O2 for diagnostics. The problem instantly went away. Instantly! So, I replaced the front O2 with another genuine O2. Problem solved…. For a while. Then a few weeks later it began to slightly resurface but no where like it was. For fun, we put the original TB back on with the original sensors. The problem has yet to come back and it’s been months. Another added issue when the surging began is that when we did go WOT, the boost was no longer rock-solid. Sometimes it wouldn’t hit full boost, sometimes it would overboost and hit boot cut, sometimes it would just fluctuate. When we replaced the O2 sensor, ALL boost issues instantly went away and it was back to acting exactly how it was tuned. So, was it all related(bad O2, new TB and sensors, weird boost issues), or was some of it at least just coincidence? The only possible theory I had was that the car was tuned with the original TB and specifically the TPS sensor. Was the old tps sensor maybe slightly “off” when it was tuned and the new TPS sensor didn’t totally jive with the tune? But then why did the new O2 sensor fix all the issues instantly? But then shortly after the symptoms began to slowly resurface. Changed back to the original TB and sensors and no problems to speak of since. In any case, maybe the OP can unplug his O2 sensor and see if his symptoms change at all. Give him another possible place to start. Awesome new segment!
Thanks! Sweethouse (aka Morten Design) was editing the intro, and felt is just needed something else. And he mentioned the Wilhelm Scream, and put it on there, and we though it was hilarious. It is definitely going to stay on the intro 🙂 Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
I could be wrong, but I think that any of the Grimmspeed catted j and downpipes prior to their v2 models were prone to throw P0420, their v2 models have beefier cats and seem to appease the cat efficiency requirement.
Thanks for the comment. It is certainly possible. I believe that they are using GESI cats now in their V2 pipes, and they are certainly better. But they can still trigger a P0420. It is a bit hit or miss, and depends on a number of factors. Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
Thanks for the comment. The biggest point here is that the 100 octane Japanese fuel is much different from the 91 and 93 Octane fuel that we have here in the states. The Japanese fuel often lets them be more aggressive with Timing compared to what we can do with US spec fuel. Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
I know this is an older video but I'd like to add to the conversation. 2005 legacy gt. Downpipe, sti turbo, inlet and tune for now. Noticed power falls off hard under heavy acceleration. Pulls and then you can feel it back off. Boost pressure drops a few pounds. No vaccuum leaks that I've found. I wonder if I'm running out of fuel pump. Injectors max at like 80% duty cycle but I can max my pump at like 15% injector cycle. I have an aem pump and new filter on the way, so I'll have my answer in a few days. If not that any ideas? Thinking the tune maybe?
Since you kept asking in the video I have no codes. But they will come up. I've had lights come on in the past. Although it seems like everytime I get a code My car is basically undrivable. Although that could just be coincidence based on my issues.
That is an interesting question. I have added this to our list. I will say that if you were running out of fuel pump, you would see a drop in fuel pressure, and you would also have a lean condition pretty quickly. I'd expect a lean code at minimum, and likely the car would break up as well. We'll think about this, and maybe discuss it on our next episode. Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
I'm getting PO170 code on a stock 2000 Outback. It pops through the intake and bucks only on acceleration while driving it. Seems to be good when in open loop but beggins as soon loop closes. Long term Fuel trim is requesting -27.3%. I checked it very close for vacuum leaks; I'm beginning to think it dropped a valve guide. Is that possible? P.D. Tried different cam, crank, map, O2 sensors coil, plugs and plug wires and ECM. Checked PVC, fuel pressure, EVAP and Fuel cap.
I have a question regarding fuel pumps. My 06 Forester XT has just topped 200k Kilometers and is still running the original Fuel Pump and filter.. What is the expected life of the Factory Pump ?.
I have an issue with my 2011 subaru wrx. I had to replace the transmission for an unrelated issue and ever since I replaced it my car hasn't ran right since. At first it was idling very low about 400-500 rpms when warm and it would stall frequently when i came to a stop. It also would have trouble starting very rarely when cold since before replacing the transmission, but it got worse after changing it. I have no check engine code so I ended up cleaning the throttle body and maf sensor and it seemed to make it better and ran really well for a few long trips. Then one day I was driving it to work and it died ob me when going up a hill and the check engine light started flashing. When I went to start it again it had a hard time starting and it was running super rough and the whole car was shaking but there was no check engine codes still. Ive already had the spark plugs replaced before this. Im wondering if it could be a vacuum leak? I did have to pull the intercooler off multiple times and had a boost leak after the intercooler that i fixed, and after fixing the boost leak is basically when the car died driving it to work.
Ive got a question for the show Ive got a p0270 and p0267 injector low voltage code on my 2003 legacy gt ej20x (JDM), checked all the voltages at the alternator no issue, changed the battery and checked the injector harness no issues what is the best way forward in your guys opinion? change injectors Im thinking is the next step?
Hey guys I got one for you. I have been chasing a p2443 air pump switching valve stuck shut. I have replaced the relay, the pump and the valve, and verified the wiring. What am I missing? Do you know what pids the ecu is looking for to set these codes? This is on my 2009 wrx, the code has been intermittent since 2015 but recently has been more persistent. It was stock but had been modified previously when I purchased it, and I have since done the exhaust, intake, inlet, intercooler, stock replacement turbo,and a catch can. This code has been such a pain. I could Just flash it out but that feels like cheating.
I've had a persistent issue in my 2004 Forester XT with 4EAT. It has 265K miles on the original motor, engine mods include vf39 STi Turbo, Turbo XS TMIC, STi up-pipe, Turbo XS Catted Downpipe, Cobb 3-port EBCS, Cobb AP v3, Walbro 255 fuel pump, Cobb SF Intake with airbox, IAG Street AOS,, stock catback, basically a nice Daily driver. I'm having an issue with excessive, borderline extreme vibration at idle, which I cannot resolve, I've had this problem persist for nearly 100K miles. The vibration almost dissapears completely once the vehicle is shifted from Park to any gear. The vibration seems to be in front and oscillates towards the rear, the plastic cover on the rear latch makes a lot of noise when it is vibrating. Could this be a driveshaft issue? I have no related CEL's, only the occasional P0457 Evap Leak, which is highly intermittent. I've changed the transmission mount twice. I've replaced all of the aftermarket axles from previous owner with oem. I've replaced the struts and springs with kyb and stock springs. I have replaced all of the rear lateral link and front control arm bushings with new Whiteline and SuperPro bushings. I've removed the Rallytek Auto Transmission Insert and have replaced all of the motor mounts with STi Group-N mounts. All of the mounts were recently inspected by a Subaru Master Mechanic I trust completely and am told they are all in good shape. I was going to try to replace all of the rear subframe bushings next, but they don't seem to be sold seperately from the subframe themselves. HELP!
On my 2004 wrx I also have the p0420 code I can confirm the it is because your running too rich I recently built my block the the code comes and gone a lot my afr is 11.25 if I'm over 3500 and 14.50 under 3500
Good show. You two are smarter than any parts guys that I’ve ever known. And so called mechanics. Keep these coming.
Dang, that is high praise. Thank you very much! We plan on adding these to our video/podcast rotation so hopefully we'll have more of them soon.
Thanks for listening and Stay Tuned!
That last situation hit home for me, I have a similar issues in both of my 04 Forester XT's where there is schmutz accumulating on the compressor side turbo outlet that connects to the intercooler. Ive always had this for as long as I can remember since I bought it at 50K miles, I'm second owner of this SG6 with 4eat, and get the P0457 Code intermittently. I've replaced the PCV system entirely at least twice (including the purge solenoid), installed an IAG Street AOS, and have even replaced the turbo to intercooler hose as I feared it was just not holding up anymore. The problem persists still at 265K daily driven miles (original motor). I don't mind clearing the codes with my Cobb AP, but the it does make my heart sink anytime I get in the car and see that amber light on the dash.
Interestingly, my 5spd with 140K miles (also vf39 swapped with supporting mods) has the same schmutz, but no P0457 code. Ever. Insight appreciated.
That is really interesting. Especially the difference between the Auto and MT car. The car from this question is local to us, so we may just have to get it to the shop to see if we can find any other details if we can get our hands on it.
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
Gotta say this issue has not been a fun one to find!! Yep, that 04 Fozzy is mine. I love the smoke down idea so that's next on the list. These guys and the ideas they have are super helpful!
Really appreciate the tips with my 04 Forester! A smoke test is definitely the next step as that should point me in a good direction. Beyond thankful for the help guys and a great episode!!!
Thanks very much, and hope that we are able to help you find the culprit. If you do discover what the problem was, be sure to let us know.
Stay Tuned!
@@FlatironsTuning absolutely, as soon as I dig in and figure it out I'll make sure to let you guys know!!!
I highly suggest putting your gas tank under negative pressure if at all possible, mine has the same code that I couldn’t figure out for the life of me, and it ended up being found out as the rollover relief valve gasket on the top of the saddle tank. When suction was applied, it whistles from between the 2 access doors to the tank. For reference, I also have an 04 forester xt. However, for the record I have not fixed the issue because I don’t wanna drop the tank
I also have a 04 fxt and I've had to replace the vent valve, filler, neck, the valve on the top backside of the filler neck and the gas cap to get rid of the large EVAP code living in a state with a lot of rust. Those are the first things to go
Loved Click and Clack, love that you guys are doing this.
Thanks very much! I hope you enjoy it, and Stay Tuned!
You should have mike from motoIQ on the show. Would be an epic podcast
We have actually reached out to Mike from MotoIQ a couple of times, but we haven't been able to make it work yet.
We'll keep after it because we would love to talk to him for sure.
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
I have a very similar issue with my AFR under light throttle low rpm. AFR bounces back and forth until I give it more throttle. I cleaned the MAF, which seemed to help, but it still does it a little.
Thanks for the comment Chuck. Have you checked for vacuum leaks, or smoke tested the car yet? I'd definitely be curious to see if you find any leaks that need attention.
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
I havent recently. Worth a check. I also don't have a CEL, thankfully!
We had a super similar issue with one of our 02 WRXs.
EJ20
JDM TGV-less intake manifold
HKS ELH
Full exhaust
Cobb 3 port
OEM JDM pink injectors
Genuine Walbro 255
Oem “E” type bypass valve
TD04 turbo rebuilt by Blouch
ALL vacuum lines and PCV valve and hoses replaced with new OEM
New OEM front O2, MAF, knock sensor, engine wiring harness, ground(battery) harness, temp sensor, coil packs, spark plugs, etc. All genuine OEM from the dealer.
Tuned by Shinji.
Car ran/runs absolutely wonderfully for a stock turbo car.
No CEL’s ever.
Car ran perfectly for a year after being tuned. Literally zero issues ever.
Since they were still available, I decided to purchase a brand new OEM throttle body assembly that also came with the new OEM TPS, MAP, and IACV sensors. I replaced it for no other reason than to just have fresh, brand new sensors that may become discontinued at some point.
Shortly after that, the car began have that crazy “just barely part throttle-no boost” surging and AFR’s jumping in sync to the surging. After smoke testing and finding nothing, I unplugged the front O2 for diagnostics. The problem instantly went away. Instantly!
So, I replaced the front O2 with another genuine O2. Problem solved…. For a while. Then a few weeks later it began to slightly resurface but no where like it was. For fun, we put the original TB back on with the original sensors. The problem has yet to come back and it’s been months.
Another added issue when the surging began is that when we did go WOT, the boost was no longer rock-solid. Sometimes it wouldn’t hit full boost, sometimes it would overboost and hit boot cut, sometimes it would just fluctuate. When we replaced the O2 sensor, ALL boost issues instantly went away and it was back to acting exactly how it was tuned.
So, was it all related(bad O2, new TB and sensors, weird boost issues), or was some of it at least just coincidence? The only possible theory I had was that the car was tuned with the original TB and specifically the TPS sensor. Was the old tps sensor maybe slightly “off” when it was tuned and the new TPS sensor didn’t totally jive with the tune? But then why did the new O2 sensor fix all the issues instantly? But then shortly after the symptoms began to slowly resurface. Changed back to the original TB and sensors and no problems to speak of since.
In any case, maybe the OP can unplug his O2 sensor and see if his symptoms change at all. Give him another possible place to start.
Awesome new segment!
Thanks for the response on my issue I did send you guys an email with more details.
Thanks Patrick. We'll take a look and follow up.
Stay Tuned!
Nice Wilhelm Scream in the intro.
Thanks! Sweethouse (aka Morten Design) was editing the intro, and felt is just needed something else. And he mentioned the Wilhelm Scream, and put it on there, and we though it was hilarious.
It is definitely going to stay on the intro 🙂
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
I could be wrong, but I think that any of the Grimmspeed catted j and downpipes prior to their v2 models were prone to throw P0420, their v2 models have beefier cats and seem to appease the cat efficiency requirement.
Thanks for the comment. It is certainly possible. I believe that they are using GESI cats now in their V2 pipes, and they are certainly better. But they can still trigger a P0420. It is a bit hit or miss, and depends on a number of factors.
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
100 octane Japanese fuel is not the same as 100 octane north america fuel. They use a different rating system.
Thanks for the comment. The biggest point here is that the 100 octane Japanese fuel is much different from the 91 and 93 Octane fuel that we have here in the states. The Japanese fuel often lets them be more aggressive with Timing compared to what we can do with US spec fuel.
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
I know this is an older video but I'd like to add to the conversation. 2005 legacy gt. Downpipe, sti turbo, inlet and tune for now. Noticed power falls off hard under heavy acceleration. Pulls and then you can feel it back off. Boost pressure drops a few pounds. No vaccuum leaks that I've found. I wonder if I'm running out of fuel pump. Injectors max at like 80% duty cycle but I can max my pump at like 15% injector cycle. I have an aem pump and new filter on the way, so I'll have my answer in a few days. If not that any ideas? Thinking the tune maybe?
Since you kept asking in the video I have no codes. But they will come up. I've had lights come on in the past. Although it seems like everytime I get a code My car is basically undrivable. Although that could just be coincidence based on my issues.
That is an interesting question. I have added this to our list. I will say that if you were running out of fuel pump, you would see a drop in fuel pressure, and you would also have a lean condition pretty quickly. I'd expect a lean code at minimum, and likely the car would break up as well.
We'll think about this, and maybe discuss it on our next episode.
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
I'm getting PO170 code on a stock 2000 Outback. It pops through the intake and bucks only on acceleration while driving it. Seems to be good when in open loop but beggins as soon loop closes.
Long term Fuel trim is requesting -27.3%.
I checked it very close for vacuum leaks; I'm beginning to think it dropped a valve guide.
Is that possible?
P.D. Tried different cam, crank, map, O2 sensors coil, plugs and plug wires and ECM. Checked PVC, fuel pressure, EVAP and Fuel cap.
I have a question regarding fuel pumps. My 06 Forester XT has just topped 200k Kilometers and is still running the original Fuel Pump and filter..
What is the expected life of the Factory Pump ?.
That is a great question. I'll add it to the list.
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
Can you talk about answer why is my boost fluctuating from like 15 20 down to 10 psi is it because the previous owner over boosted it?
I have an issue with my 2011 subaru wrx. I had to replace the transmission for an unrelated issue and ever since I replaced it my car hasn't ran right since. At first it was idling very low about 400-500 rpms when warm and it would stall frequently when i came to a stop. It also would have trouble starting very rarely when cold since before replacing the transmission, but it got worse after changing it. I have no check engine code so I ended up cleaning the throttle body and maf sensor and it seemed to make it better and ran really well for a few long trips. Then one day I was driving it to work and it died ob me when going up a hill and the check engine light started flashing. When I went to start it again it had a hard time starting and it was running super rough and the whole car was shaking but there was no check engine codes still. Ive already had the spark plugs replaced before this. Im wondering if it could be a vacuum leak? I did have to pull the intercooler off multiple times and had a boost leak after the intercooler that i fixed, and after fixing the boost leak is basically when the car died driving it to work.
Thanks for the question Elijah! I'll definitely add it to our list, and that is a good one.
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
Ive got a question for the show Ive got a p0270 and p0267 injector low voltage code on my 2003 legacy gt ej20x (JDM), checked all the voltages at the alternator no issue, changed the battery and checked the injector harness no issues what is the best way forward in your guys opinion? change injectors Im thinking is the next step?
That is a great question. We'll add it to our list!
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
Hey guys I got one for you. I have been chasing a p2443 air pump switching valve stuck shut. I have replaced the relay, the pump and the valve, and verified the wiring. What am I missing? Do you know what pids the ecu is looking for to set these codes? This is on my 2009 wrx, the code has been intermittent since 2015 but recently has been more persistent. It was stock but had been modified previously when I purchased it, and I have since done the exhaust, intake, inlet, intercooler, stock replacement turbo,and a catch can. This code has been such a pain. I could Just flash it out but that feels like cheating.
Id have the tuner tune out the P0420
Thanks for the comment. That is definitely a bit trickier now, and that is the issue.
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
I've had a persistent issue in my 2004 Forester XT with 4EAT. It has 265K miles on the original motor, engine mods include vf39 STi Turbo, Turbo XS TMIC, STi up-pipe, Turbo XS Catted Downpipe, Cobb 3-port EBCS, Cobb AP v3, Walbro 255 fuel pump, Cobb SF Intake with airbox, IAG Street AOS,, stock catback, basically a nice Daily driver. I'm having an issue with excessive, borderline extreme vibration at idle, which I cannot resolve, I've had this problem persist for nearly 100K miles. The vibration almost dissapears completely once the vehicle is shifted from Park to any gear. The vibration seems to be in front and oscillates towards the rear, the plastic cover on the rear latch makes a lot of noise when it is vibrating. Could this be a driveshaft issue? I have no related CEL's, only the occasional P0457 Evap Leak, which is highly intermittent. I've changed the transmission mount twice. I've replaced all of the aftermarket axles from previous owner with oem. I've replaced the struts and springs with kyb and stock springs. I have replaced all of the rear lateral link and front control arm bushings with new Whiteline and SuperPro bushings. I've removed the Rallytek Auto Transmission Insert and have replaced all of the motor mounts with STi Group-N mounts. All of the mounts were recently inspected by a Subaru Master Mechanic I trust completely and am told they are all in good shape. I was going to try to replace all of the rear subframe bushings next, but they don't seem to be sold seperately from the subframe themselves. HELP!
That is a great question. I'll add it to our list.
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
On my 2004 wrx I also have the p0420 code I can confirm the it is because your running too rich I recently built my block the the code comes and gone a lot my afr is 11.25 if I'm over 3500 and 14.50 under 3500
Thanks for the comment, and thanks for watching.
Stay Tuned!
Is there a difference between a cam sensor and a cam position sensor?
Can anyone tell me if there is a difference between a cam sensor and a cam position sensor?
No, those are the same things. Monitoring the cams position in rotation.
@@FlatironsTuning I replaced both of them and it turned out to be a coil pack
#smokethetank
Nice!
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!