That's a great demonstration of the proper tension for a bobbin that applies to both home and industrial sewing machines. Finally, somehow who is doing sewing demonstrations who has good, close up camera work! I'm definitely a subscriber.
I have a Bernina 530 home sewing machine and am considering an industrial (JUKI DU-1181N) since the Bernina is struggling through layers of leather/canvas. I just watched your video and it was very helpful. Your directions are clear and concise with great up-close videography. For me, it makes an industrial machine less scary to use. Thanks.
I recently bought a Du1181 N and it came partial assembled but would really like to see how to attach the bobbin winder, the plastic case that goes around the belt, and also how to attach the knee lift, how and where to put in the oil and any other start up information that would be useful. I really enjoyed your video on this machine and it was really easy to understand and you did a great job on demonstrating the threading.
Kathy Evans I'm glad you liked the video! Unfortunately I don't have access to this machine anymore so I can't provide you accurate advice. Your local repair shop or the dealer you bought the machine from should be able to provide you with an owner's manual for a small fee. My local repair guys are at www.sewingmachineindustrial.net/ and they have a massive library of manuals that they can supply you with if you call them. Good luck, and enjoy your new machine!
Lola Falk I haven't sewn through leathers quite that thick before, so I can't say for sure. Based on what I have sewn, though, the DU-1181N will handle most heavy duty jobs, as long as the work fits under the presser foot (and it has an extra high lift, so you can definitely fit a tall stack). I can't imagine that you would have to invest in the 1541 unless you were doing really heavy stuff, like saddlery. If you trust your sales rep, ask their opinion, too. Best of luck, and happy sewing!
This is a fantastic video, thanks so much for sharing. I sew leather goods (bags, wallets) and I typically use leather that is about 6-7oz at the thickest, or 2-4oz thick leathers stacked on top of each other (3-4 pieces stacked at a time). I'm debating between purchasing either this model (DU-1181N) or the more heavy-duty DNU-1541. Do you have any thoughts on which might be the better choice for my work? I don't want to invest in the 1541 if it's too much muscle for my medium-duty leather sewing needs. Thanks for your time and opinion!
Great video and thanks for sharing. Would you happen to know where I can find out how to hem a pair of pants using a Juki machine? All of the videos I've come across use a different machine allowing you to place the leg opening on to the machine, but I'm not able to do that with an industrial Juki. Thanks in advance!
Hello! Thank you for this great video! I just bought this model (DU-1181N) today and I'm very happy. I have a 400W clutch motor. Compared to your machine used in your video, on my machine I can't control the speed so precisely and achive slow speeds. I understood that you have a servo motor. Can you please write me the specs of you servo motor? I would like to upgrade. Thank you!
The machine I have uses this motor: www.allbrands.com/categories/3238/11456-fesm550n-quiet-high-torque-clutchless-dc-servo-mot I would recommend calling your local Industrial Sewing Machine store and just talking to them. These guys are really great, and serve half the USA: sewingmachineindustrial.net/
Thanks for the video ,I am thinking of buying this machine but I would like to know if it could work with thick thread for some designs and if I can to obtain a very fine and good quality finish, I will work with different materials as a combination of leather and fabric to make elegant purses, handbags etc etc is it possible to do that with this machine? Thank you :)
+Ju Ju The thread take up spring is fairly easy to replace, by simply unscrewing the tension adjustment completely and removing the tension disks to access the spring. Unfortunately adjusting this spring to the proper tension once you've replaced it can be fairly tricky. I'd recommend hiring a sewing machine mechanic for this operation, or at the very least enlisting the help of a mechanically-savvy friend.
Hi Phillip. I'm trying to understand the differences in sewing machines. I like this one. I also like the Juki dnu1541s. I had two questions. In what cases does a person want a safety clutch built into their machine? Also, I see this 1181n does some heavy materials but what is the lightest material you could recommend for this machine? Thank you in advance for any reply.
The main difference between these two machines is the feed type. The machine I show in this video is a walking foot machine, meaning that the feed dogs and the presser foot work together to move the fabric through the machine. By contrast, the DNU-1541 is a unison feed machine, sometimes also called a compound feed. This means that not only do the presser foot and feed dogs work to move the fabric through the machine, the needle also moves while in the fabric, effectively locking all layers together and almost completely eliminating the possibility of fabric layers shifting. Obviously a unison feed offers the most security when sewing multiple layers of heavy materials together, but truth be told it's probably overkill for most applications. Most people will find that a walking foot is more than adequate for their heavy sewing needs. Note that both of these machines are for heavy materials only. If you're looking to minimize shifting while sewing multiple layers of lightweight materials, consider a needle feed machine, such as the Juki DLN-5410N. In regards to the clutch, there's two things we could be talking about. In industrial machines, the clutch usually refers to the motor. A clutch motor is usually the cheapest option, but also uses the most electricity, and is louder and less powerful. If you're talking about an internal machine component, a safety clutch is a mechanism that disengages the motor if the needle hits something it can't puncture. The purpose of the clutch is to keep the machine timed properly. These are usually only found in home sewing machines, not industrial machines, and shouldn't be necessary in any machine designed for sewing heavy fabrics or leathers.
can you make a video filling the oil pan, setting the motor at different speeds, and showing how you adjust your stitch spacing closer or father? or tell me exactly how i do these things?
1.) Filling the oil pan is easier than it sounds. Tip your machine back on the hinges so you can see the oil pan. You'll notice two lines in the oil pan on the left hand side, marking the low and high oil levels. Open your bottle of machine oil (available from your parts store), and SLOWLY pour the oil into the right hand side of the pan. Stop pouring when the oil level is just under the high marking. 2.) Changing the motor speed will depend on what type of motor is installed on your specific machine. Take a look at your motor under the table. If your motor is adjustable you will see a small dial with numbers marked around it - those numbers indicate the motor speed, so smaller numbers are slower and higher numbers are faster. If your motor isn't adjustable, you can talk to your parts store about swapping out the motor for an adjustable model - usually about $125 plus installation. 3.) To adjust the stitch length, turn the dial on the front of the machine, just above the reverse bar on the right hand side. Smaller numbers are tighter stitches, larger numbers are longer stitches. If it's hard to turn the knob, try holding down the reverse bar while turning the knob.
With standard options, this machine can take needles as small as size 14, and as large as size 23. For most general-purpose projects (canvas, denim, thin leather) I prefer a size 16 or 18 needle, and use a Tex 40 or Tex 60 thread. To match your thread size to your needle size, google "thread needle size guide", and it should pop up with a handy little chart for you.
How you liking your 1181N? I am currently using 5 machines Juki 414, Singer 20U (zigzag), Brother DBL, Singer 15-19 and my wife's Euro-pro for decorative stitching. Looking at the 1181N hearing mixed messages. Whats biggest needle it will take and is yours a servo motor? appreciate the input
The 1181N is a great machine, and would be a nice addition to your collection. I usually keep a #18 needle in it, but it can take needles up to #23, and with an adjusted base plate I think you can go down to #14 needles. I do have a servo motor on this machine, and I strongly recommend it. The servo motor is 50% stronger than a clutch motor, allowing the machine to operate more smoothly through heavier materials (especially at slower speeds), and gives you finer control over starting, stopping, and sewing speed.
Are you able to saw all types of fabric on this sawing machine ? I know it is heavy duty but just wondering if it its capable of handling linens and other upholstery fabrics ? Looking for a good walking foot machine for a while and this one seems to be perfect ..
This machine is for medium and heavy weight wovens and non-wovens. That means no knits, and no lightweight fabrics like silk or shirting. Linens and upholstety will go through just fine. I believe, however, that you can get a separate set of feed dogs for the machine that work well on light fabrics, so with a quick parts change its a very versatile machine.
Hi, can you explain the lubrication of this machine? do you just literally fill the pan underneath? Also, does the machine have a hand crank to lift the presser foot? I just got this machine for upholstery, but the instruction manual is not very helpful. thank you!
This model is auto-lubricating, which means that you fill the oil pan under the machine to the markings, and as the machine runs, a small pump distributes the oil throughout the machine. the knee lift is faster and allows for a much higher lift off the presser foot, but on those occasions when you need to lock the foot up there is a hand lever located on the back of the machine head above the needle. It's usually grey. This is an excellent machine for upholstery, and should serve you well. It has a learning curve if you're used to other types of machines, but once you learn all it's tricks you'll love it.
Looks like you still keep up with the channel so I have a question. Nice video by the way. I've just recently started trying to sew but I'm using the Highlead 618 machine. You may not be familiar but it seems the thread is so tight by the time I get through all the holes and loops that it won't pull back through the presser foot. The bobbin is fine. Is this a tension problem or something else do you think?
***** Good question. I'm not completely familiar with Highlead machines. Is it a problem while you're sewing, or just while you're threading the machine? If it's a threading problem, try lifting the presser foot while you're threading - many machines have a mechanism to release tension when the presser foot is lifted, and resume tension when it's down. If it's still a problem while you're sewing, then it's definitely a tension problem - make sure that your thread cone unravels properly (on rare occasion you will find a poorly wound cone), make sure the thread stand is properly aligned over the cone, and try threading the machine without looping around the thread bars, just threading through them once. If none of those work, I'd call your local mechanic.
I have a Juki 1181N the needle and hand wheel wont turn . I'm thinking there could be some thread jamed by the bobbin. What do you think this could be?
If you've recently switched out your presser foot, sometimes the two different parts of the foot can get jammed together and prevent the hand wheel from turning, so you'll need to make sure the feet are aligned properly and can move freely. Otherwise you're probably right, you probably have some stray thread mucking up the bobbin carrier or the shuttle. I'd unthread the needle, remove the bobbin, and see if you can clear out the bobbin area.
Hi! I always refer to your videos for reference because I have this exact Machine!! I have a huge problem tho!! I have been searching for a foot attachment for this machine, specifically a WELT/CORDING foot and a DOUBLE WELT foot. Even a zipper foot would come in handy. The problem is I cannot find a foot for this machine that fits!! I have been to local sewing machine stores and they cannot even figure it out. Do you have advice/resources on finding one for this machine ?? Maybe a way to put it on too?? its possible I am putting the foot on incorrectly, but because of the curve I am confused. HELP PLEASE :-)
I am unable to see how to attach the foot on this video? Am I missing something..lol..sorry to bother you!! I will call this company and see what they have for me. THANKS SO MUCH PHILLIP
Syahirah Aqilah Bt Hanafiah I haven't made new videos in a long time, but I do intend to start again. Different types of feet and attachments are very important to a machine's utility. Thank you for the suggestion, I will definitely try to include that kind of information in future videos!
Philip, can you do a video on changing out the needle from sharp point to leather, I changed my needle and have the scarf on the right and the needle is not picking up the thread.. I am confused, I am using a db 1 needle, Do i have to change any settings with needle to hook relation? ALSO PLEASE COULD YOU TELL LME WHAT LL NEEDLE YOU ARE USING AKA LEATHER NEEDLE, JUKI TOLD ME TO USE DB 1 OR 165X
Hey Philip, I have a Juki DU-1181N and I have a question about the oil inside the machine. The manual says that I should see oil splashing inside the oil sight window when the machine is running. I don't see that. The oil level down in the pan is above the add mark. Is there supposed to be oil poured down inside the machine through one of the rubber plugs? If so how much?
Great Question! My favorite repair guy told a story about this once. Your machine is probably fine. When Juki says you should see oil splashing, they're talking to industrial operators who use the machine at full speed. If you come from a home sewing background and you're not going full speed, you might not see it bubbling or splashing in the little oil dome. So how can you check to see if it's okay? Unthread your machine, turn the speed all the way up, and floor the pedal. At that point you're probably going to see it splashing, and your machine is fine. And if you want to periodically check, just take a look while you're filling the bobbin. If you don't see it bubbling, and there's plenty of oil in the machine don't overfill it. Check to make sure the oil filter isn't clogged or needing replacement. If that doesn't clear things up, consult your local sales rep or repair shop.
It could be used that way, but that's not really what it's designed for. This machine is designed for heavier materials like denim, canvas, or leather. It can sew lighter materials, but it's not particularly good at it. I'd recommend Juki machines in the DDL model series for piecing quilts.
Thank you! Yes, this machine has a servo motor. Most of the machines I work with have them, and I highly recommend them. Servo motors give you more power, greater control, and don't wear on your nerves with the constant humming.
I haven't tried jute, but I imagine it would work just fine. My biggest concern would be controlling the fraying, which would be a challenge on any sewing machine. If you're using a binding to seal the edges, then yes, this machine should work great for that purpose.
Yes, this machine is perfect for leather with the right type of needle. It is also good for upholstery, but keep in mind that it is not a long arm machine, so really large projects may be difficult. This shouldn't be a problem unless you're quilting the upholstery. Unfortunately I don't know where you would find a distributor in Dubai, but this machine is available worldwide, so your local industrial sewing supply store should be able to help.
This machine uses DPx17 or 135x17 type needles, and for most types of leather you'll want a "cutting point" or "leather point" needle. I'm not sure about other brands, but Groz-Beckert labels their needles with a 1 or 2 letter suffix at the end of the needle code, such as SD or LR, so you'd be looking for a " 135X17/DPX17 SD" or "" 135X17/DPX17 LR" needle. By contrast, the " 135X17/DPX17 R" needle is a round point that you'd mostly use for woven fabrics. Hope that helps!
I just got this machine, my main purpose is to make nylon belts and possibly leather. What are your thoughts of its capabilities on leather? I am also confused on the thread sizing. The manual says #40-#8 which seems different than normal sizing. Thanks for the video very helpful.
This machine works very well on both nylon webbing and on leather. If you're working with leather you're going to want to make sure that you're using a leather needle (with a spade tip, rather than a round point). This machine is capable of handling a wide variety of thread weights, from standard serger thread all the way up to ultra-thick upholstery topstitching. www.thethreadexchange.com is a great source for information on thread. Their size 33 thread is like a standard home sewing thread, which would be the minimum for this machine. I've tested threads all the way up to size 207 without problem. Make sure your needle size corresponds with your thread size, though. They tell you on the website what size needle is recommended for each thread weight. Have fun with your new machine!
@@kodydstevens93 This machine handles almost all types of leather. You may find that it's a little too big and bulky for the thinnest leathers, like glove leather, so a regular straight stitch machine might be better for those. You may also have trouble with multiple layers of some of the heaviest leathers, like saddle leather, in which case you'll need an extra heavy duty machine. But for everything in between this machine is perfect.
@@kodydstevens93 Yes, this machine should be excellent for that. You may want to invest in a specialty presser foot for leather, too. Standard presser feet have teeth to help grab the fabric and pull it through, but a leather presser foot is smoothe instead so it doesn't mar the leather.
That's a great question. Without looking at the machine myself, I have no idea why that would be, unfortunately. I'd recommend calling your local repair shop. Sorry I can't be of more help!
I'm not aware of any walking foot attachments for the 8300. Your local parts store should be able to order teflon or roller presser feet for the machine, though. A teflon foot or a roller foot would help reduce drag on the material as it feeds through the machine, but they won't provide the clamping power of a walking foot, or the torque required for sewing heavy materials.
That's a great demonstration of the proper tension for a bobbin that applies to both home and industrial sewing machines. Finally, somehow who is doing sewing demonstrations who has good, close up camera work! I'm definitely a subscriber.
every person who sews with any kind of machine should watch this video. the skills demosonstrated are so basic yet utterly essential to good sewing
Thank you!
Cuánto cuesta para Colombia
I have a Bernina 530 home sewing machine and am considering an industrial (JUKI DU-1181N) since the Bernina is struggling through layers of leather/canvas. I just watched your video and it was very helpful. Your directions are clear and concise with great up-close videography. For me, it makes an industrial machine less scary to use. Thanks.
I recently bought a Du1181 N and it came partial assembled but would really like to see how to attach the bobbin winder, the plastic case that goes around the belt, and also how to attach the knee lift, how and where to put in the oil and any other start up information that would be useful. I really enjoyed your video on this machine and it was really easy to understand and you did a great job on demonstrating the threading.
Kathy Evans I'm glad you liked the video! Unfortunately I don't have access to this machine anymore so I can't provide you accurate advice. Your local repair shop or the dealer you bought the machine from should be able to provide you with an owner's manual for a small fee. My local repair guys are at www.sewingmachineindustrial.net/ and they have a massive library of manuals that they can supply you with if you call them. Good luck, and enjoy your new machine!
Thanks. I contacted them and hope they can help
Lola Falk I haven't sewn through leathers quite that thick before, so I can't say for sure. Based on what I have sewn, though, the DU-1181N will handle most heavy duty jobs, as long as the work fits under the presser foot (and it has an extra high lift, so you can definitely fit a tall stack). I can't imagine that you would have to invest in the 1541 unless you were doing really heavy stuff, like saddlery. If you trust your sales rep, ask their opinion, too. Best of luck, and happy sewing!
This is a fantastic video, thanks so much for sharing. I sew leather goods (bags, wallets) and I typically use leather that is about 6-7oz at the thickest, or 2-4oz thick leathers stacked on top of each other (3-4 pieces stacked at a time). I'm debating between purchasing either this model (DU-1181N) or the more heavy-duty DNU-1541. Do you have any thoughts on which might be the better choice for my work? I don't want to invest in the 1541 if it's too much muscle for my medium-duty leather sewing needs. Thanks for your time and opinion!
Great video and thanks for sharing. Would you happen to know where I can find out how to hem a pair of pants using a Juki machine? All of the videos I've come across use a different machine allowing you to place the leg opening on to the machine, but I'm not able to do that with an industrial Juki. Thanks in advance!
quite an excellent video. thanks for your effort.
Hello! Thank you for this great video! I just bought this model (DU-1181N) today and I'm very happy. I have a 400W clutch motor. Compared to your machine used in your video, on my machine I can't control the speed so precisely and achive slow speeds. I understood that you have a servo motor. Can you please write me the specs of you servo motor? I would like to upgrade. Thank you!
The machine I have uses this motor: www.allbrands.com/categories/3238/11456-fesm550n-quiet-high-torque-clutchless-dc-servo-mot
I would recommend calling your local Industrial Sewing Machine store and just talking to them. These guys are really great, and serve half the USA: sewingmachineindustrial.net/
Phillip Miller Thank you!
Me encanta este tipo de máquinas. Quisiera saber si también hacen costura en zigzag
No. No hacen costura en zigzag. Lo siento.
.Gracias.
Thanks for the video ,I am thinking of buying this machine but I would like to know if it could work with thick thread for some designs and if I can to obtain a very fine and good quality finish, I will work with different materials as a combination of leather and fabric to make elegant purses, handbags etc etc is it possible to do that with this machine? Thank you :)
Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Thanks for posting this. I have a Juki DU141NH and have broken the thread takeup spring. Are you able to show how I can replace this?
+Ju Ju The thread take up spring is fairly easy to replace, by simply unscrewing the tension adjustment completely and removing the tension disks to access the spring. Unfortunately adjusting this spring to the proper tension once you've replaced it can be fairly tricky. I'd recommend hiring a sewing machine mechanic for this operation, or at the very least enlisting the help of a mechanically-savvy friend.
Great video, thanks so much!
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it!
Hi Phillip. I'm trying to understand the differences in sewing machines. I like this one. I also like the Juki dnu1541s. I had two questions. In what cases does a person want a safety clutch built into their machine? Also, I see this 1181n does some heavy materials but what is the lightest material you could recommend for this machine? Thank you in advance for any reply.
The main difference between these two machines is the feed type. The machine I show in this video is a walking foot machine, meaning that the feed dogs and the presser foot work together to move the fabric through the machine. By contrast, the DNU-1541 is a unison feed machine, sometimes also called a compound feed. This means that not only do the presser foot and feed dogs work to move the fabric through the machine, the needle also moves while in the fabric, effectively locking all layers together and almost completely eliminating the possibility of fabric layers shifting. Obviously a unison feed offers the most security when sewing multiple layers of heavy materials together, but truth be told it's probably overkill for most applications. Most people will find that a walking foot is more than adequate for their heavy sewing needs. Note that both of these machines are for heavy materials only. If you're looking to minimize shifting while sewing multiple layers of lightweight materials, consider a needle feed machine, such as the Juki DLN-5410N.
In regards to the clutch, there's two things we could be talking about. In industrial machines, the clutch usually refers to the motor. A clutch motor is usually the cheapest option, but also uses the most electricity, and is louder and less powerful. If you're talking about an internal machine component, a safety clutch is a mechanism that disengages the motor if the needle hits something it can't puncture. The purpose of the clutch is to keep the machine timed properly. These are usually only found in home sewing machines, not industrial machines, and shouldn't be necessary in any machine designed for sewing heavy fabrics or leathers.
can you make a video filling the oil pan, setting the motor at different speeds, and showing how you adjust your stitch spacing closer or father? or tell me exactly how i do these things?
1.) Filling the oil pan is easier than it sounds. Tip your machine back on the hinges so you can see the oil pan. You'll notice two lines in the oil pan on the left hand side, marking the low and high oil levels. Open your bottle of machine oil (available from your parts store), and SLOWLY pour the oil into the right hand side of the pan. Stop pouring when the oil level is just under the high marking. 2.) Changing the motor speed will depend on what type of motor is installed on your specific machine. Take a look at your motor under the table. If your motor is adjustable you will see a small dial with numbers marked around it - those numbers indicate the motor speed, so smaller numbers are slower and higher numbers are faster. If your motor isn't adjustable, you can talk to your parts store about swapping out the motor for an adjustable model - usually about $125 plus installation. 3.) To adjust the stitch length, turn the dial on the front of the machine, just above the reverse bar on the right hand side. Smaller numbers are tighter stitches, larger numbers are longer stitches. If it's hard to turn the knob, try holding down the reverse bar while turning the knob.
thank you. :)
Thanks for the video. Can you explain what sizes of needle and thread this machine can take? Thanks again....
With standard options, this machine can take needles as small as size 14, and as large as size 23. For most general-purpose projects (canvas, denim, thin leather) I prefer a size 16 or 18 needle, and use a Tex 40 or Tex 60 thread. To match your thread size to your needle size, google "thread needle size guide", and it should pop up with a handy little chart for you.
How you liking your 1181N? I am currently using 5 machines Juki 414, Singer 20U (zigzag), Brother DBL, Singer 15-19 and my wife's Euro-pro for decorative stitching. Looking at the 1181N hearing mixed messages. Whats biggest needle it will take and is yours a servo motor? appreciate the input
The 1181N is a great machine, and would be a nice addition to your collection. I usually keep a #18 needle in it, but it can take needles up to #23, and with an adjusted base plate I think you can go down to #14 needles. I do have a servo motor on this machine, and I strongly recommend it. The servo motor is 50% stronger than a clutch motor, allowing the machine to operate more smoothly through heavier materials (especially at slower speeds), and gives you finer control over starting, stopping, and sewing speed.
Are you able to saw all types of fabric on this sawing machine ? I know it is heavy duty but just wondering if it its capable of handling linens and other upholstery fabrics ? Looking for a good walking foot machine for a while and this one seems to be perfect ..
This machine is for medium and heavy weight wovens and non-wovens. That means no knits, and no lightweight fabrics like silk or shirting. Linens and upholstety will go through just fine. I believe, however, that you can get a separate set of feed dogs for the machine that work well on light fabrics, so with a quick parts change its a very versatile machine.
Thanks Phillip , that means I`ll also have to keep my old sawing machine..thanks
Hi, can you explain the lubrication of this machine? do you just literally fill the pan underneath? Also, does the machine have a hand crank to lift the presser foot? I just got this machine for upholstery, but the instruction manual is not very helpful. thank you!
This model is auto-lubricating, which means that you fill the oil pan under the machine to the markings, and as the machine runs, a small pump distributes the oil throughout the machine. the knee lift is faster and allows for a much higher lift off the presser foot, but on those occasions when you need to lock the foot up there is a hand lever located on the back of the machine head above the needle. It's usually grey. This is an excellent machine for upholstery, and should serve you well. It has a learning curve if you're used to other types of machines, but once you learn all it's tricks you'll love it.
Very nice machine
Looks like you still keep up with the channel so I have a question. Nice video by the way. I've just recently started trying to sew but I'm using the Highlead 618 machine. You may not be familiar but it seems the thread is so tight by the time I get through all the holes and loops that it won't pull back through the presser foot. The bobbin is fine. Is this a tension problem or something else do you think?
***** Good question. I'm not completely familiar with Highlead machines. Is it a problem while you're sewing, or just while you're threading the machine? If it's a threading problem, try lifting the presser foot while you're threading - many machines have a mechanism to release tension when the presser foot is lifted, and resume tension when it's down. If it's still a problem while you're sewing, then it's definitely a tension problem - make sure that your thread cone unravels properly (on rare occasion you will find a poorly wound cone), make sure the thread stand is properly aligned over the cone, and try threading the machine without looping around the thread bars, just threading through them once. If none of those work, I'd call your local mechanic.
Thanks
I have a Juki 1181N the needle and hand wheel wont turn . I'm thinking there could be some thread jamed by the bobbin. What do you think this could be?
If you've recently switched out your presser foot, sometimes the two different parts of the foot can get jammed together and prevent the hand wheel from turning, so you'll need to make sure the feet are aligned properly and can move freely. Otherwise you're probably right, you probably have some stray thread mucking up the bobbin carrier or the shuttle. I'd unthread the needle, remove the bobbin, and see if you can clear out the bobbin area.
Hi! I always refer to your videos for reference because I have this exact Machine!! I have a huge problem tho!! I have been searching for a foot attachment for this machine, specifically a WELT/CORDING foot and a DOUBLE WELT foot. Even a zipper foot would come in handy. The problem is I cannot find a foot for this machine that fits!! I have been to local sewing machine stores and they cannot even figure it out. Do you have advice/resources on finding one for this machine ?? Maybe a way to put it on too?? its possible I am putting the foot on incorrectly, but because of the curve I am confused. HELP PLEASE :-)
Industrial machines can be hard to find parts for. www.sewingmachineindustrial.net/
So very helpful, thank you!
I am unable to see how to attach the foot on this video? Am I missing something..lol..sorry to bother you!! I will call this company and see what they have for me. THANKS SO MUCH PHILLIP
Can u make various video about how to use presser foot and gathering foot for juki industrial machine.. Thank you;)
Syahirah Aqilah Bt Hanafiah I haven't made new videos in a long time, but I do intend to start again. Different types of feet and attachments are very important to a machine's utility. Thank you for the suggestion, I will definitely try to include that kind of information in future videos!
Philip, can you do a video on changing out the needle from sharp point to leather, I changed my needle and have the scarf on the right and the needle is not picking up the thread.. I am confused, I am using a db 1 needle, Do i have to change any settings with needle to hook relation?
ALSO PLEASE COULD YOU TELL LME WHAT LL NEEDLE YOU ARE USING AKA LEATHER NEEDLE, JUKI TOLD ME TO USE DB 1 OR 165X
You should use DPx17 needles (135x17)
Hey Philip, I have a Juki DU-1181N and I have a question about the oil inside the machine. The manual says that I should see oil splashing inside the oil sight window when the machine is running. I don't see that. The oil level down in the pan is above the add mark. Is there supposed to be oil poured down inside the machine through one of the rubber plugs? If so how much?
Great Question! My favorite repair guy told a story about this once. Your machine is probably fine. When Juki says you should see oil splashing, they're talking to industrial operators who use the machine at full speed. If you come from a home sewing background and you're not going full speed, you might not see it bubbling or splashing in the little oil dome. So how can you check to see if it's okay? Unthread your machine, turn the speed all the way up, and floor the pedal. At that point you're probably going to see it splashing, and your machine is fine. And if you want to periodically check, just take a look while you're filling the bobbin. If you don't see it bubbling, and there's plenty of oil in the machine don't overfill it. Check to make sure the oil filter isn't clogged or needing replacement. If that doesn't clear things up, consult your local sales rep or repair shop.
Is this machine also for piecing quilts?
It could be used that way, but that's not really what it's designed for. This machine is designed for heavier materials like denim, canvas, or leather. It can sew lighter materials, but it's not particularly good at it. I'd recommend Juki machines in the DDL model series for piecing quilts.
Great Video!! Thank you for sharing, I am in the process of buying an industrial machine. Yours is quiet, do you have a servo motor?
Thank you! Yes, this machine has a servo motor. Most of the machines I work with have them, and I highly recommend them. Servo motors give you more power, greater control, and don't wear on your nerves with the constant humming.
Will this sew sideways/ multidirectional? Thank you
No, this is a forward and reverse only machine.
This machine good for jute bags?
I haven't tried jute, but I imagine it would work just fine. My biggest concern would be controlling the fraying, which would be a challenge on any sewing machine. If you're using a binding to seal the edges, then yes, this machine should work great for that purpose.
Thanks
Hello this is for the leather right? for upholstery? is this available in dubai?
Yes, this machine is perfect for leather with the right type of needle. It is also good for upholstery, but keep in mind that it is not a long arm machine, so really large projects may be difficult. This shouldn't be a problem unless you're quilting the upholstery. Unfortunately I don't know where you would find a distributor in Dubai, but this machine is available worldwide, so your local industrial sewing supply store should be able to help.
What needle are you using for the leather on this video?
This machine uses DPx17 or 135x17 type needles, and for most types of leather you'll want a "cutting point" or "leather point" needle. I'm not sure about other brands, but Groz-Beckert labels their needles with a 1 or 2 letter suffix at the end of the needle code, such as SD or LR, so you'd be looking for a "
135X17/DPX17 SD" or ""
135X17/DPX17 LR" needle. By contrast, the "
135X17/DPX17 R" needle is a round point that you'd mostly use for woven fabrics. Hope that helps!
@@phillipmiller90 Thank you very much!
I just got this machine, my main purpose is to make nylon belts and possibly leather. What are your thoughts of its capabilities on leather? I am also confused on the thread sizing. The manual says #40-#8 which seems different than normal sizing. Thanks for the video very helpful.
This machine works very well on both nylon webbing and on leather. If you're working with leather you're going to want to make sure that you're using a leather needle (with a spade tip, rather than a round point). This machine is capable of handling a wide variety of thread weights, from standard serger thread all the way up to ultra-thick upholstery topstitching. www.thethreadexchange.com is a great source for information on thread. Their size 33 thread is like a standard home sewing thread, which would be the minimum for this machine. I've tested threads all the way up to size 207 without problem. Make sure your needle size corresponds with your thread size, though. They tell you on the website what size needle is recommended for each thread weight. Have fun with your new machine!
@@phillipmiller90 I know I'm a little late to this conversation but what type of leather are you talking about specifically?
@@kodydstevens93 This machine handles almost all types of leather. You may find that it's a little too big and bulky for the thinnest leathers, like glove leather, so a regular straight stitch machine might be better for those. You may also have trouble with multiple layers of some of the heaviest leathers, like saddle leather, in which case you'll need an extra heavy duty machine. But for everything in between this machine is perfect.
@@phillipmiller90 thanks for the quick response. I work on leather veg tan wallets and purses so just making sure I got the right one haha
@@kodydstevens93 Yes, this machine should be excellent for that. You may want to invest in a specialty presser foot for leather, too. Standard presser feet have teeth to help grab the fabric and pull it through, but a leather presser foot is smoothe instead so it doesn't mar the leather.
Why are my needles keep falling out have tried to tighten screw brother ind
That's a great question. Without looking at the machine myself, I have no idea why that would be, unfortunately. I'd recommend calling your local repair shop. Sorry I can't be of more help!
Googd
can i get but a walking foot for 8300n juki
I'm not aware of any walking foot attachments for the 8300. Your local parts store should be able to order teflon or roller presser feet for the machine, though. A teflon foot or a roller foot would help reduce drag on the material as it feeds through the machine, but they won't provide the clamping power of a walking foot, or the torque required for sewing heavy materials.