Always enjoy to watch the care you put into these guitars. They will definitely benefit from your work and feel like they have the real thing (which maybe doesn't play as well as your job.)
I have the AMI branded one- it needed a lot of set up work, which I did myself, and I also replaced the pins with Bob Colossi died bone pins... looks a lot better. I had to drive/hammer the low E pin out from inside the guitar. There is NO good excuse for that. None. Zero.Zilch. Nada. I also tried the DR strings mentioned in this video and was less than impressed. I also tried Martin Retro 11-52's which I liked, but I like to experiment with strings and have, for the time being at least, settled on Martin Flex Core (Tommy Emanuel endorsed) 12-54 PB. The guitar sounds fantastic, but, the Fishman Sonitone ain't all that great and stopped working when it was about a month old. AMI did send me another one, free of charge.
I'm surprised you don't likle DR strings? They are all ive used in the last 5 years. I even have them on my luthier-built (£3000) J-45 dreadnought type acoustic. I love them! I've never liked the Fishman stuff: I have an LR Baggs Anthem in my luthier-built...
Victor did it have an undersaddle pickup, I thought I could see the controls in the soundhole or am I mistaken. I was looking g at a left handed sigma same looking guitar it looked great but I was viewing on a guitar website
@@ILoveTelecasters Possibly! Truss rods only really work on acoustics from fret 2 to fret 14 and in many cases, the adjuster is a long way back from the sound hole. Victor...
I have one of these and it came with a super high action, and I haven't got around to sorting it out. Is it not possible to lower the action by just adjusting the truss rod? Is shaving something off the saddle absolutely necessary? I'm happy to adjust the truss rod myself but don't fancy doing the bridge/saddle work!
Adjusting the truss rod straighten or bends the neck. It will affect action height but it will not cure it. to lower action, you need to (sometimes) lower at the nut end but always lower at the bridge/saddle end...
Maybe you had to be in the room? This is using trhe mic on the camera: it's never going to give a true representation of the sound in the room! Victor...
The action you want depends om your playning style. The ower if this guitar is probably a light strummer/fingerpicker, therefore he prefer lower action than, for example, a hard strumming blugrass picker.
My comment wasn't about how the Sigma plays Lars....if I remember it was about how it sounded 🔊 And watching this 📹 again after nearly 2 years I'm still of the view that the Sigma acoustic being worked on by Victor sounded 'well better' with loads more sustain & volume when played relatively softly by Victor before he took to lowering it's action. Surely you want the best' sounding guitar you can get your hands on 🤨... What a lot of people seem to forget is that in lowering the action on an acoustic there' is often a trade off, in the sound quality & sustain that you will ultimately get from that instrument. You must also remember that in lowering the action on an acoustic guitar you will also be lessening the break angle over the bridge saddle & hence the transfer of the strings vibration into the top of the guitar (the sound board) won't be as good....as can clearly be heard here with the Sigma not having as much sustain or sounding as good as it did before the action was lowered 🙂
Always enjoy to watch the care you put into these guitars. They will definitely benefit from your work and feel like they have the real thing (which maybe doesn't play as well as your job.)
For your information:-SPEC:
Body
Body Top: Solid Sitka Spruce
Body Back & Sides: Mahogany
Body Size: D-14 Fret Slope Shoulder
Body Shape: Slope Shoulder Dreadnought
Body Finish: High Gloss
Neck & Fingerboard
Neck Material: Mahogany
Construction: Dovetail Neck Joint
Neck Shape: Low Profile
Scale Length: 628mm
Fingerboard Material: Micarta
Nut Material: Bone
Nut Width: 44.5mm
Hardware & Electronics
Electronics: Fishman Sonitone
Tuning Machines: Grover Open-Geared
Hardware Colour: Nickel
Thanks
are the sides, back and arm solids?
@@ProfYago no, laminated
I have the AMI branded one- it needed a lot of set up work, which I did myself, and I also replaced the pins with Bob Colossi died bone pins... looks a lot better. I had to drive/hammer the low E pin out from inside the guitar. There is NO good excuse for that. None. Zero.Zilch. Nada.
I also tried the DR strings mentioned in this video and was less than impressed. I also tried Martin Retro 11-52's which I liked, but I like to experiment with strings and have, for the time being at least, settled on Martin Flex Core (Tommy Emanuel endorsed) 12-54 PB.
The guitar sounds fantastic, but, the Fishman Sonitone ain't all that great and stopped working when it was about a month old. AMI did send me another one, free of charge.
I'm surprised you don't likle DR strings? They are all ive used in the last 5 years. I even have them on my luthier-built (£3000) J-45 dreadnought type acoustic. I love them! I've never liked the Fishman stuff: I have an LR Baggs Anthem in my luthier-built...
Victor did it have an undersaddle pickup, I thought I could see the controls in the soundhole or am I mistaken. I was looking g at a left handed sigma same looking guitar it looked great but I was viewing on a guitar website
I don't remember. I'm not watching the video to find out...
@@FretFriendGWaL I don't blame you Victor, keep the vids coming love watching an expert like you make a real difference to the guitars 😊👍
I just got a Sigma S000M-10E - the trus rod seems to be VERY far inside. Was that the case for you as well?
@@ILoveTelecasters Possibly! Truss rods only really work on acoustics from fret 2 to fret 14 and in many cases, the adjuster is a long way back from the sound hole. Victor...
@ Think you! ❤️
the sides and neck are solid?
I have one of these and it came with a super high action, and I haven't got around to sorting it out. Is it not possible to lower the action by just adjusting the truss rod? Is shaving something off the saddle absolutely necessary?
I'm happy to adjust the truss rod myself but don't fancy doing the bridge/saddle work!
Adjusting the truss rod straighten or bends the neck. It will affect action height but it will not cure it. to lower action, you need to (sometimes) lower at the nut end but always lower at the bridge/saddle end...
Its a Jumbo. hence J45
Bit of a shame fella....I thought that guitar sounded loads better at the start of 📹, when it had a higher action (much louder & far more sustain).
Maybe you had to be in the room? This is using trhe mic on the camera: it's never going to give a true representation of the sound in the room! Victor...
The action you want depends om your playning style. The ower if this guitar is probably a light strummer/fingerpicker, therefore he prefer lower action than, for example, a hard strumming blugrass picker.
My comment wasn't about how the Sigma plays Lars....if I remember it was about how it sounded 🔊
And watching this 📹 again after nearly 2 years I'm still of the view that the Sigma acoustic being worked on by Victor sounded 'well better' with loads more sustain & volume when played relatively softly by Victor before he took to lowering it's action.
Surely you want the best' sounding guitar you can get your hands on 🤨... What a lot of people seem to forget is that in lowering the action on an acoustic there' is often a trade off, in the sound quality & sustain that you will ultimately get from that instrument.
You must also remember that in lowering the action on an acoustic guitar you will also be lessening the break angle over the bridge saddle & hence the transfer of the strings vibration into the top of the guitar (the sound board) won't be as good....as can clearly be heard here with the Sigma not having as much sustain or sounding as good as it did before the action was lowered 🙂