How to build an Arduino based DIY 3D Printed Robotic Bartender - Part 1
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ส.ค. 2017
- Build yourself a low-cost easy to assemble Bluetooth controllable robotic bartender using an Arduino Uno. This easy Arduino based project can be 3D printed and is a cool Arduino project for beginners.
Part 2: • How to build an Arduin...
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List of items used in this project and where to find them :
Arduino Uno: geni.us/ArduinoUno
Motor driver: geni.us/UnoMotorShield
Contact Switch: geni.us/ContactSwitch
Linear Bearings: geni.us/LinearBearings
RGB LED: geni.us/RGBLEDCC
8mm Steel Rod: geni.us/8mmMetalRod
Stepper Motor: geni.us/StepperMotor
Timing Belt and Pulley (2m version): geni.us/TimingBelt
Timing Belt and Pulley (5m version): geni.us/TimingBelt5m
3D Printer Filament: geni.us/3DJake
(As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. This helps to pay for the next project.)
Download 3D printable parts:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:247...
www.diymachines.co.uk/3d-prin...
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Disclaimer:
This video is shared for demonstration purposes only. - ภาพยนตร์และแอนิเมชัน
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Thanks for watching. Don't forget to like and subscribe . Please share with anyone who might enjoy the video or even build there own. :)
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What is the total price?
Can you please do a video making a small laser engraver or a mini 3D printer the other TH-cam videos have crappy music and don't actually explain anything. I really like how you are clear and precise and go thru all the details. Your explanations are valuable for people like me who are beginners.
The prolixity of your works is incredible! ... I suscribe!
Love you videos. So high quality. You’ve basically built a mini 3D-printer/CNC here 😀
7:58 this work is a mastery in plastic design, I would never have thought about such intricacy on my first version
Gosh, thanks. Kind praise - it was inspired by a similar mechanism used by 3D Printer.
Very clever design. I like the way you terminate the belts.
Thanks, I have to say that it's one of my favourite parts of this design. I'm sure to use it again in the future.
Nicely done. I like how you laid everything out for the camera with masking tape.
Thanks Jeremy,. :) I saw someone else do it once, can't remember who it was now but credit to them!
I suppose we all pull techniques from each other at some point. Maybe that will make an appearance in one of mine :-)
Such a well engineered project, great work :)
Imax72 thank you. :)
What size screws and nuts were used? It's touched upon most of the time in the video, but what screws do you use to attach the bot to the table? What type do you use for the belt tensioner?
Good job!
Hello, i really enjoy your videos and intend do build this myself.
I live in denmark and can't buy the stepper-motors or find anywhere else that ships them to denmark.
Do you have any alternative options for the stepper motors ?
Thanks a lot :)
hello, i have a question, if you can said wherefore objet i can replace the piece blue that looks like in the first video?
Hi! Awesome design! I’ve used some of your parts and customized them to my own design. I only have one question... for the slider that the glass is placed on, do you use supports for where the belt goes through? I did but it is a pain in the ass to remove them 😬 thanks again! Michael
Did you use support to the slider? or did you remove their supports?
Also, when I am looking on amazon at the RGB LED's, there are two options, common cathode, and common anode. I was wondering if it makes any difference, and if so how to determine which to use. Do you know what are you using?
Hi Gavin, the RGB led is a common cathode (they are all connected to the same ground pin): geni.us/RGBLEDCC
Really nice work👍
I build your bartender robot too.
I have only one problem. The slider is pushing hard against the switch. It needs 3 seconds that the motor stops.
Can you help me? What can be the problem. Greetz Tobi
Can I ask You, these steel poles are from pure steel or they have chrome surface for better strenght
Kamil Tompalski. I used pure steel. They do flex a bit so if you can get your hands on some with a chrome surface you may have a better build.
Hi, I really liked your work, could you help me with the programming part?
Thanks Eduardo, I've posted my code here: diymachines.co.uk/?p=62 . I might not be able to find the time to get back to all your questions but do ask them. If I can't help quickly enough someone else here might help you.
Hello, what filament do you use in 3d printer? you could make videos of your printer too, I found the quality of your print excellent, could you make your settings available?
Thank you Andre. I use PLA filament from Prusa Printers.
I print most of my parts at 0.2mm layer height with 20% infill. I use the filaments recommended temperatures and Slic3r to generate the GCODE.
how much infill percentaje do i need for my 3d printed pieces? Would you please give me suggestions about it?
Hello. Yes sure. I've printed them all at 20% infill with the exception of the big base the glass sits on and the upright threaded rods which were all printed at 30% for some extra strength.
Hey
Me again I was just wondering where do you get the recepies for the cocktails because if I look up some recipies they have multiple ingredients wich I can't mount to the bartender?
Hello, Hope your build is going well. Would love it if you shared a photo. :) I started here to find recipes. www.socialandcocktail.co.uk/top-100-cocktails/
If they call for things you can't find ready bottled to load onto the bar robot (like milk?) then I put some in a cleaned wine bottle and add the appropriate optics to dispense it.
Oh thanks that gets me alot further and I can't really give a picture because I had to do some research for my school first shortly I am going to start putting it together when i get the base outline I will send you a picture. Anyways thanks alot
jarni Van halewijn you’re welcome. :)
Hello congratulations for your project is very nice to see, I like the idea of making one, but I have doubts about the printed parts 3d, I would like to know the measurements of the base of the glass and the other printed parts. please . best regard
Hello and thank you. These are rough, squared off foot print measurements for each part in the position I printed them:
Glass base: 190x125mm
Paddle: 145x58mm
Motorised x axis base: 75x128mm
Idle x axis base: 100x128mm
Threaded rods: 25x25mm and 180mm high
Thanks!
No problem this should be enough to know wich motor it is
Hi, I would like to know where you bought your linear rail shafts and how it cost? Thank you :)
Hi, I bought my 8mm steel rod from Amazon: geni.us/8mmMetalRod For the number of optics I was mounting I chose a 1000mm long rod.
@@DIYMachines Thank You a lot my friend!
can you please explane why you use the micro switch and the led light ?
Sure. The micro switch is so that we can 'home' the X axis and know where it is when we switch on the baron. The LED is used to communicate when the barber is either ready to take a new drinks order, is currently creating a drink or had finished making the previous drink. It does this by changing the colour of the RGB LED.
hellow I am a student from Belgium and for my final year I need to make a final thesis. You inspired me with the 3D printing sow my final thesis is your project but i have a question were do you store the recipies for the cocktails?
jarni Van halewijn hello. Wow, that’s great to hear. I’m just editing the next video which includes more feature rich code. It will be published in about a week. I’ll make sure to explain in that video how it receives and processes recipes when you request a drink from it. I’d love to read a copy of your thesis when it’s complete as well. :)
That's great I will send you a copy as soon as it is finished.
Hello again
I was just wondering wich NEMA you were using is it the NEMA 17 5kg/cm or the NEMA 17 4kg/cm?
Hello, I hope your thesis is coming on well. I couldn't find out a direct answer but I did find the below specifications. Perhaps you might be able to glean what you need from it?
Drive mode: Chopping wave constant current drive
Exciting mode: Two-phase 4-wire, it is available for rotation of forward and reverse
Turn to: The order of power is AB-BC-CD-DA, from shaft end see C.W
Rated current (one-phase): 1.5A DC
Rated voltage: 3.45V
Stepping angle: 1.8°
Operating Conditions: Environment Temperature: -20~50℃; RH: 90%MAX; Mounting Position: Axis horizontal or vertical installation
Direct-current winding resistance (25º): 2.3±10%
Wnding inductance: 3mH±20%
Cogging torque: 12mN.m REF.
Holding torque: ≤300mN.m I=1.5A
Max. no-load starting frequency: ≤1500pps
Max. no-load running Frequency: ≤8000pps
Temperature rise:
You are doing great. Why your channel is not growing?
Do i have to add an stabilazation support at the dispenser paddle V2 when i want to Print it??
Kobe
Hello Kobe, Yes, you'll need to include supports when you print that part.
I think this is an awesome project, but for people who don't have 3D printer is it possible to simplify design to just use pieces of wood. I can see that "blue side mounts" (ones holding metal railings could simply be two pieces of wood with holes and some tightening scres. Attaching motor to one of the "wooden side mounts" also seems to be possible. The "shuttle" can be made of wood as well, the key ingredient is to attach those "rail huggers" to the bottom. The only piece I cannot see solution to is this chainlink. Can there be an adjustment to the design, which permits to skip the chain altogether? (Maybe attach wires to from different angle, or use some other idea to allow wires to move between sides?
Hi, yes a wooden one would certainly be possible. If you lifted the rails up so you had enough space to mount the electronics under the paddle and moved the motor for the x-axis, and it's end stop switch onto it as well then everything would be contained on the paddle - no cable chain required then. :)
would would expand/contract with the temperature/humidity changes and lead to all sorts of problems.
Friend Congratulations on your work, I have a question, how wide is the Rubber Opening Belt? 6mm or 10mm?
Thank you, the belt is 10mm wide.
DIY Machines thank you
Hi my friend, do you think there would be a problem with the Slider Base and the Rubber Opening Belt if I use 6mm instead of 10 mm? Because all I could find was a Pulley with 7mm for the Rubber Opening Belt?
Hello, I can't see a reason why using a 6mm belt would be a problem.
HI Kobe again,
Do you use 3 times the same stapper motor ?? XCSOURCE Nema 17 2 Phase 4-Wire 1.8 degree Stepper motor 42 x 42 x 34mm For 3D Printer TE225
Thanks for the earlier response!
When I'm done I will send you some photo's.
Kobe
Hello Kobe,
Yes. It's three of the same motors. I noticed amazon stopped selling the one I linked to so I found an equivalent for you:amzn.to/2mQQqkn
@@DIYMachines Hi, not sure if you still reply to comments. But I've bought the shield and 1 of the motors in the description and the shield overheats and the motor doesn't move as you'd expect. When I read the specs it's a 1.5a motor when the l293d outputs 0.6a per bridge. Are you sure these parts are compatible? cheers.
Hi where can I find the original 3d modeled files please thanks
Is part 2 available?
What’s the file of the drag chain? Can’t find it. How many chain links did you use?
Juan Valles hello. The drag chain is this design: www.thingiverse.com/thing:11978. I used 38 of them.
Thankyou!! I'll be in touch
what do you suppose we do if we can't 3d print those things for the project?
If you (or you don't no anyone else who might be able to) can't 3D print the components you could still download the models and build a similar frame for the various electronics from another material such as wood. Just be aware that some of the spacing explained in the video may be slightly different.
Really need 3 wires for the switch?
There is a drag queen in New York City who now has quite the crush on you. Just so you know.
Can I ask you something. What is the role of the micro switch??
hung hung H The switch allows us to home the position of the x axis (the paddle which holds the drinks glass). When we power on the barbot the paddle could be anywhere along the rails. The first thing we do is move the paddle to the right until it bumps up against the switch, at that point we now know where it is located. If you watch the intro to part 2 you can see this happening.
oh. i understand. So how to move the paddle to the location of the bottle. Do you use any kind of sensor? Or just set the stepper motor to a certain parameter after trying to run?
Your second idea is correct. We save the distance to each bottle optic and move the paddle a certain distance each time we need to move between bottles. Because of this after every 5 or 6 drinks made we will re-home the paddle to prevent any drifting of its position.
What a great idea. I am planning to make a more compact model. Use only 1 servo and 1 stepmotor. I'm having problems with code. Have you finished? Can you share your code for me to study? Thank you very much. My email. hung15219961@gmail.com
Thank you. I'd love to see your version of this - send me some pictures of your project general@diymachines.co.uk. I'm still writing my code, I'm an amateur coder but am almost there with it. I will off course share it when it's complete. :) I post videos on my Patreon for my supporters first, then a couple of weeks after that I share them publicly. If you'd like to support me you can send any amount on www.patreon.com/diymachines to become a supporter and get early access to videos amongst other things.
Where can I find the STL-Files for the Chain-Parts?
i'm going to try and use this file: www.thingiverse.com/thing:915487
Do you offer the 3-D printed parts for sale?
Hi Ben, not at the moment. Where would you want them posted?
What is the resolution for your 3D printing
It was a little while ago I printed these parts but I believe I printed them in either 0.15 or 0.2mm layer heights.
how long was you rods
youngstar025 the rods I used are 1m long. You can use any length. The shorter the rod the less width you have to fit optics.
Could i nicely ask u to add a BOM on your thingiverse?:)
I know this is a very slow reply, but I have added a BOM for the purchased parts on Thingiverse. :)
Can I just buy this from you lol...I can't solder at all.
Pls make a vedio on iron man helmet
Bueno el vídeo pero muy mal en los subtítulos, demasiado rápido pasan y no se entiende nada
how big is your "table"?
45 x 125cm.
Thanks but after watching the video again. I noticed it wasnt needed :) do you still have this build?
Most of it still remains, though I scavenged a few components from it for my newer projects.
a) you would have been better with heat shrink then electrical tape on your connections.
b) why not just buy a drag chain?
c) i'm surprised you didnt nick the fuck out of the wires, when you drilled the hole in the end of the drag chain. (not to mention your drilling techniques need -ALOT- of improvement in general)
sapevate che la stampante 3 d è stata inventata da un italiano? È UN PROGETTO MADE IN ITALY
but .... does it work?
Vangelis Tsoumenis that's what we're working on now and we will post in part 2 ☺ there's some sneak peeks on our instagram @diy_machines. Thanks for watching!
Very cool project. Looking forward to the next part.
Vangelis Tsoumenis thanks mate, appreciate your comments 👍🍻
DIY Machines What type of 3d printer is that?
NickBean 85 , it is a Prusa i3 Mk2 I built as a kit from Prusa. www.prusa3d.com. They now make an updated version called the Prusa i3 Mk2S.
Interesting idea, but the video is unwatchable. If I turn it up high enough to hear your voice I am deafened every few seconds with loud music. You need to normalise the sound level throughout.
Hi Gavin, thanks for the suggestion. You're not the first one to say this about this video. It was my second TH-cam video and since this I have normalised the sound level in newer projects. Here you can find my more recent work: th-cam.com/channels/3jc4X-kEq-dEDYhQ8QoYnQ.html