How to Remove a Stuck Brake Bleeder Screw
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ย. 2024
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In this video, 1A Auto demonstrates some methods to try when dealing with a stuck brake bleeder screw
🔧 List of tools used:
• Acetylene torch
• 3/8 Inch Air Impact Gun
• Gloves 1aau.to/okf/1AX...
• Rust Penetrant
• Safety Glasses 1aau.to/ohs/1AX...
• Hammer 1aau.to/ouA/1AX...
• Wire Brush 1aau.to/ohT/1AX...
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While 1A Auto strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. 1A Auto is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.
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Many years ago I had the same problem. What happened to me was the head twisted off and I never was able to open the bleeder valve open. Used a hammer on the extended caliper to collapse it, to put the brake pads on. Wishing I had collapsed the caliper after having a big problem with the bleeder valve.
Thanks for showing us this video. Yes, it sucks when bolts or nuts rusted and welded from corrosion. Yes, I would rather buy a new part than try to drain my whole day removing it.
Funny that a How To video failed to work! Honestly, I actually very much appreciate that. Usually folks only show things in optimal lights and make it seem like fix all solutions. It's refreshing to see a realistic video showing that things just don't always work sometimes
Granted, I'm hoping mine doesn't end up failing like this video and one of these methods works for me hahaha
you can ha ha ha more... probably you have not repair to much on your car... repair on cars that have at least 5 years might end with broken rusted nuts or old plastics, after ten years you might get one piece per repair if you are extremely caution or more if you intend on productivity.
Right?!?! All the how to videos just make it look super easy then people are shocked when they end up making it worse lol. I love that he goes through several options and explains how to do them correctly, and more importantly, how to NOT overdo it. His comment at the end is my favorite 🤣🤣🤣
Your last option is to snap the bleeder screw and drill it out - These guys wont tell you that because their goal is for you to buy a new part.
All he had to do was heat the caliper up till it was red hot and it would have came out , doing this way has NEVER EVER let me down the last 40 years doing breaks .
You should always put a drill bit or broken drillbit into the hole to prevent it from collapsing on itself. it allows you to safely apply more torque without shearing it off. and also the best method i found is to hit the bleeder itself with a map torch or propane torch till it's almost red and then quench it with cold water. several heat/quench cycles and the bleeder will come out super easy. I have never not been able to remove one. when you quench it you will see the rust flow out of the threads and the bleeder will be loose
I would also change the bleeder if you do that as quenching it will make it brittle
Galgamoth What if it DOES twist off? How you going to get that broken drill out ?
ASPCOT Drill bits and bolt extractors
Galgamoth this is best advice I’ve read ie. break drill bit off flush. Heat bleeding screw,quenching immediately several times. Works every time. Another method is tack weld nut onto bleed screw. Heat from tack/weld separates rust when screw contracts. Good satisfaction when you place old one in bin.
True true, good advice.
Heat the bleeder screw red hot. Let it cool down. Repeat 3 or 4 or even 6 or 7 times. I've never had one not come out. The expansion & contraction of the heating & cooling breaks the fusion of the screw & the caliper. Has never, ever failed me yet.
true ive seen heating until glows the quench it with water, I like to use GM Heat riser valve lubricant worked every time, its no longer available.
@@jeffalan6339 agreed. I ran out of that stuff and can’t seem to be able to get more. I’ve been told that they don’t make it anymore
@@jeffalan6339 Yep it works.. Map gas & get that puppy nice & red.. Then shock it loose with cold water...
isnt brake fluid flammable
@@maniacalmonster2293 nope
Over the years I have found a very small amount of preventive measures is far better than having to deal with these stuck bleeder screws. If I have to replace the calipers with new ones or use old ones for that matter, I put a small, small amount of anti-seize on the bleeder screw threads thread it all the way in, then screw out the bleeder screw to coat the caliper threads, then screw the bleeder screw back in. Since the bleeder screws are made from cheap metal, usually steel alloy, and the caliper is made from aluminum alloy, whenever there is a difference between the two metals, galvanic corrosion WILL occur between the parts and cause the screw to cold weld itself. This is accelerated by salt and water forming a battery between the parts. Technically, different metals have different numbers of electrons in each metals Valence Shell or outermost electron shell orbit. This difference in "Nobility" where one metal's valence shell electrons are higher in number than that of the other metal alloy, causes a very small electrical current to flow between the two parts eventually causing this cold welding to occur. Bostich and Permatex make the best anti-seize in my opinion and I never have had any problem removing parts that have that on their threads. Again, a very small amount of ant-seize is all you will need. I hope that this will help someone!
Heat the caliper around the bleeder screw up with propane torch or heat gun FIRST, (I prefer Heat Gun, a little slower but safer on the car), then hit it with Penetrating oil. It will suck the oil right in. Let it sit and do its thing (dissolve rust). If that doesn't work, your niffty hammer gun tool should do it but heat it back up and hit it with CRC "Freeze Off" penetrating oil again first.
Bleeders are usually easier than the flare nut on brake line. You have to break the threads loose AND break the rust loose between the flare nut and the line. I work on old cars allot and have gotten many flare nuts loose only to twist the brake line like a piece of licorice . Because of this issue, I'd never take off the caliper for a bleeder screw until it broke off flush but in my experience they are easier than the flare nuts if you use heat and pen oil, especially freeze off. I'm guessing you did this for ease of demonstration but many less experienced mechanics may think they need to remove the caliper for seized bleeder and that's a bad move unless you HAVE TO.
A link to where you got the hammer gun tool would be nice also.
Over the past 45 years, whenever I've purchased a vehicle or replaced seized brake cylinders or calipers, I ALWAYS put anti-seize on the bleeder fittings. Always! Worked like a charm for me and I never had a problem loosening a bleeder fitting after doing that! Garages love to throw a person a price for replacing brake lines or doing a brake job just to get someone in the door. Then, once the car's up on the rack they can't wait to boost the price of the job by adding calipers or cylinders because they "cant bleed the brakes." The last thing I think I'll ever see a garage mechanic do is put anti-seize on bleeder fittings to save the customer some money. If you find a mechanic that does this, you better hold onto him.
I run my own shop and I ALWAYS put antisez on the bleeds when I do breaks .
@@cowboypatriot1200 uhhh.. ""BRAKES"" ! cmon! .. u been doin breaks how long? geez... sorry but good tips anyway
Great video, I always use a six sided box wrench or socket, never a 12 sided. You can use penetrating oil and then heat the caliper. Let the penetrating oil sit for 24 hours which allows the oil to work its way down the nipple threads.
Using the vise grips the other way allows them to bite and hold better. Always pull grips, channel locks, adjustable wrenches towards the adjustable jaw. Less chance of damage to the tool or nut/bolt
I use a vise grip/channel lock, it has teeth facing opposite directions. Works great.
Thanks for showing different techniques. The mechanic in this video is very well spoken, btw. He communicates excellently.
Someone may have mentioned this: place the back portion of a drill bit into the bleeder screw. It is hollow and if you fill the opening of the bleeder screw with the back part of a drill bit that fits snugly, it will not collapse on you while you are working on it. I keep old broken drill bits around just for this and other purposes.
I heat the screw, used wd40 to cool down, 4 times and works. Few taps in between. But I did use the torch on the screw and not on the caliper.
there are ways to prevent this and most old time mechanics don't ever have this problem, any bolt or nut, especially in different metals, always use a small amount of anti seize, bolts, spark plugs, lug nuts, etc. just be careful on the spark plugs, i use qtips so i just get it on the threads, you do not want any on the tip. you will never have a problem with stuck lug nuts if you clean the studs and nuts and use the anti seize. a small can is a little costly but will last for years if you are a do it your self mechanic. surprised no one mentioned the hand impact driver. one added note, any stuck bolt or nut will turn to tight before it will turn to loosen, i always try to tighten a small amount to get started.
+jimmie Roan Thanks for the feedback!
this might sound counterintuitive but old trick I learned at Midas 30 years ago heat the bleeder screw and not around the bleeder screw if you heat the bleeder screw cherry red and then when it's cherry red instantly cool it with water it will come free almost finger free if you don't believe me try it I use an old fire extinguisher that you fill with water and compressed air that cools it the fastest
+Patrick Duggan Thank you for the recommendation! We appreciate other tricks which will help other DIYers perform these replacements! 1aauto.com
AHA! IT WORKED!!!!
That sh!t worked, I felt like it was going to snap just turning it. I tried this and I didn't even heat it cherry red... only for about 20 secs. When I saw smoke coming from the threads I cooled it and it came loose with a ratchet.
Midas trained us to get er dun
I do the same just heat with a propane torch and it works. never tried coiling it with water.
You'd think after all these years automotive technology would have come up with a sytem that doesn't end up like this.
+1rewd1 Thank you for checking us out. We agree, but the manufacturers make it more difficult and they sometimes rush designs or usage of parts/hardware. 1aauto.com
1rewd1 it's called anti-seize but it cost the manufacturer of the vehicle TOO MUCH!!!
1rewd1 will that would make sense.... But how are these guys gonna make money if they make something that lasts?
Rubber top hats that seal to the caliper do wonders. I have seen bleeder screws look brand new after years. You can also pack the area around the threads with anti sieze or hella thick grease.
1rewed1 All manufacturers would have to do is put a thin layer of anti-seize compound on the bleeder valve threads before screwing it in but they don't bother. Permatex anti-sieze works wonder. You just need a very very thin layer. Just barely enough to coat the threads, and keep the compound away from the tip of the valve at the inside of the valve.. You don't want to push any significant amount of aluminum particles and solvents into the brake fluid. They should also be able come up with some kind of plating that prevents seizing.
Heat thread area, and then use a can of Dust Off upside down to spray the bleeder. The C02 comes out as liquid and freezes the bleeder which shrinks it.
I run a business servicing BMW and Mercedes cars and I always kept new bleed screws in stock and I will always replace them if they are suspect and I always change the brake fluid on every major service. Old contaminated brake fluid is the main reason for brake caliper pistons seizing up. Proper servicing eliminates most problems with brakes.
Good and honest video. Skilled mechanic. Imagine doing this in the street because you have no driveway and it's blustery cold? If you bought brand new calipers like I did... just before getting T-Boned! and having my 2011 Impala totalled. shit... the first thing you would probably do is buy a brand new, shitty, rusty, USED car you can afford with the pathetic tiny insurance settlement you got. Remember, your 'STELLAR' ride got totalled and you got 30 cents on the dollar ! Then, when they drop YOUR new used junk car off in front of your home, the first thing you will make sure of is that the car can stop !! You won't know this until the engine is powering your drivetrain. Stopping the car is by FAR the most important thing a car has to be absolutely be capable of. Stopping power should be at least twice your acceleration power. (personally I like to be able to pull 5 negative G's when stopping) !! Steering the car comes in as number 2 next to braking. Kiss your bleeder valves and thank your caliper for their existence: for allowing you to be able to stop your car without the bleeding bloodbath that could occur if your bleeder valve is displaying 'arterial-like' bleeding. Bleeder valves are important and never ever seem to be noticed nor do they have a nice big nut to get a breaker bar or impact socket on. Do YOU hate these tiny little bleeder nuts on junky rusty calipers that you will get after your car is totalled and Progressive Insurance forces you into a crusty rusty ??? Once again, I find myself having to buy new calipers and rebleed the progressive beast. What a pain. Progressive paid $4500 for a 2011 chevy impala whilst I had $6000 in new parts including a rebuilt transmission, brake system, exhaust, rims ALL from last year. Struts, suspension... all new. If you get hit by someone who has 'Progressive car Insurance' - - - STAY IN THE HOSPITAL and claim INSANITY !!! I agree with everyone here who would like to see a better flush system. Alas, lately, bleeder valves have only served to bleed our wallets or used as negative 'mythical swear words'. But the overall system-theory of a cone in a seat is a great idea because it can handle the pressures of the hydraulic system. Unfortunately, not many car manufacturers or mechanics pay attention to properly seat these tiny shitty valves by using high temp lube. Any decent axle grease will stop rust and make these a breeze to take out. FIX: 15mm wrench design! Car with BIG NUTS wins. I feel like 'Progressive Insurance' owes me some skin that came off whist making a rust bucket safe again.
ABSOLUTELY SPOT ON! Stupid design in order for these tiny, fragile IMF Mission Impossible brake bleeder screws to rust in place!! Hmmm......Remanufactured Calipers have become quite a business......
Best method I've evercame across is heating up the bleeder with a torch and quenching it with cold water. It always comes out super easy
I am glad my first auto instructor isn't alive to see you use that claw hammer. Lol
I appreciate the honesty of this video! I like all the different techniques to loosen the seized bleeder screw. This reminds me of what I am currently going through with a seized bleeder screw. Sometimes it takes a little while for it to break loose and sometimes it doesn't. Thanks! 💪😎
I heat to about medium and then quench with water. This will make the contraction more rapid and will generally work in the first or second cycle but it will always work.
Love how the hammer keeps getting bigger and bigger. This is exacty how I do it. You could also try letting the penetrating oil set over nite before you go to more aggressive removal.
Heating the screw cherry red probably works, but I would be afraid of softening the steel, although quenching might harden it again. I would try with heat (not until red) and quench several times first, and also tapping on top of the screw. Use a nut or small socket that fits over the nipple and rests snugly on the hex part of the bleeder to avoid mashing down the nipple.. Being hollow, bleeder screws are very weak and easy to break as most people have discovered, I'm sure.
If you are doing it in your driveway hit it with penetrant a week before you change the pads.
+Charles Pratt Thanks for the tip!
I've had fantastic luck after heating up surrounding area shocking it with PB BLASTER allowing the alluminum to cool somewhat before turning as to NOT strip the alluminum threads. Repeating the process 3 to 4 times. Hasn't failed yet !! Being careful to wipe off excessive lubricant to not cause a fire. PB as well as most are combustible.
I spent three hours trying to brake the bleeder loose, then I called the parts store and picked up rebuilt caliper for 17.00. ha ha
Lucky you.
PBR dual-piston calipers go for $100/pair used.
I'm thinking a rebuilt caliper is around $60 or more at AutoZone.
$17? What?
1AAuto has kit for my 1999 silverado, Brake Calipers with Brackets & Hardware, Pads and Rotors $199.99 that's not too bad.
I recommend taxi/police calipers: Powder coated perfection with matching brackets. Only $699.99 for all 4. Dont forget to condition your BLEEDER VALVES.
That's why you coat the bleeder with Never seize before installing
I had a mechanics tell me this. Put the box end over a bleeder make sure it’s a six point never just pulling a wrench but give The wrench a sharp hit but not to hard. The impact breaks it Loose better than just pulling on it .
Also I have used a 4 inch rigid pipe wrench instead of Vice Grips to get stripped bleeder out . Again give the ranch a smart little smack. A pipe wrench grabs it much better.
My little pipe wrench also works great on stripped brake line nuts.
Lovely info. Problem is the caliper is still on the car. Very tricky to say the least!
Just bled brakes on my 05 F150. Never before, when the rubber caps came off, the screws looked brand new. Living in the SW part of the country helps.
I tried all that. my last resort was to make a cut down the center with a hack saw. I then used a flathead to twist it out. I got a little turn before half of it broke off. The newly made flat edge allowed channel locks to bite. Came right out. I was so pumped that I didn't have to buy a new caliper.
put a drillbit in the hole that fits snug and it won't shear off like that
I bought an oxy-acetylene torch set when I was about 18, I call it my smoke wrench. Propane torch is a waste of time, not hot enough. the oxy torch works every time. you heat the outer material to expand away from the bolt. I never try to heat up the bolt itself, that just expands the bolt into the case.
can't you heat it up really really hot and then shock it with water? I swear I've seen SMA use that method recently and it worked like a charm....just a random thought. Thanks for the vids 1a!
+Darren G. Thanks for the feedback. That is another way to remove this, but you would definitely want to be careful with this method.
Darren G.
2
Visual quality good. Audio quality good. Camera steady. Three things most who want clicks don't have.
As for the method......Just fully disassemble the piston and seal, hardcore clean, then heat up and dunk in water, it will come loose. At least it has for me on numerous occasions. But I would always want to keep my vehicle running so I want "on vehicle" maintenance tips.
That helps a lot when you don't use your by Vice Grips backwards !
+Robbie Wetbike Thank you for checking us out! 1aauto.com
That's what the hell I said !!!!!
He wouldn't have needed to know which direction the vise grips needed to be used if he'd used a six point socket in the first place and not rounded the bleeder head off.
😆😆
Exactly what i thought. Didn’t even resort to drilling it out, just gave up. Wouldn’t take my car there.
Try putting a brill bit down the hole, after heating then get the grips on it. The drill bit will stop the bleeder from warping
If the screw won't come out or breaks off, there is a way to bleed without replacing the cylinder or caliper.
With the pads removed, have someone slowly pump the brake pedal until the piston almost comes out of the cylinder. As the piston is almost out, tilt it so that only the top of the piston is completely out of the cylinder allowing air at the top to come out. You have to keep pressure (with your hand) on the piston to keep it from falling out, and once the bleeding is completed, press the piston back it.
This works easier on drum brakes as there are two smaller pistons. On drum brakes, allow the higher piston to come out and prevent the lower one from popping out.
You can also loosen the brake line and push the piston back to get the air out
Awesome effort bro. 👍🏼😊
Love the honesty “I think this thing lives here now.” 😂
Thanks for the vid. I was very helpful actually.
+Barry Bebenek Thanks for checking us out. Shop here for high quality auto parts: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Good skill work! I once got frozen bleeders out by using a pointed tool, hammering around the base to loosen any rust visible. First time I ever got frozen bleeders out without braking.
Constant torque with wrench and smaller torch works wonders!!!
I can't believe that no one noticed that he put the penetrating oil on the threads only and not down the bleeder hole. Most corrosion is from water getting down in the bleeder hole by the cross drilled hole. That's why you must keep rubber caps on the bleeder screws. Some manufacturers provide them on new cars, but I've seen them deteriorate and fall off or get left off when bleeding. I've also seen mechanics put grease in the bleeder hole when they are done bleeding. This prevents corrosion down in the bleeder hole where it seats on the angled seal surface. The grease will just blow out the next time you bleed. Also those who think you can bleed from the brake line entering the caliper will never get the air out for proper bleeding. The bleeder valve is at the very top of the caliper where the air rises.
EXACTLY!
what really works is heat. from experience I have learned to not waste time with other methods. penetrating lubrication may help a little but without heat you won't get it off. a propane torch works most of the time but unfortunately sometimes you need something stronger. in this case he probably needed to heat it up longer or something like an acetylene torch. but heat always works just depends how much. just got to be careful.
Great point.A MAPP gas torch burns hotter than a propane torch and always works for me.You can buy one for around $30-40 and it always breaks badly rusted or seized nuts loose.
chrisvill54 MAP gas!!!
ya, i love it when working on my car and people who dont, are telling me to just spray it with WD-40 and it will come right off.
@@frankgrimes6047 ha. Yeaaaa. Maybe brand new. 😂. That never worked for me. Little heat. Water. Bang. Right out and new bleeders.
You want to use the hammer on the outer part of the breaker bar,just above the socket going to the bleeder,and tap the breaker bar while trying to loosen the bleeder. This will break it loose easier and then you go about working the bleeder out slowly with penetrating oil and turning back and forth. Using the hammer on the breaker bar will shock the fitting and the rusted bleeder,and it will help it break loose before you break the bleeder off.Been doing this for 20 years working on Chrysler and never had one break off yet,,,,,Knock on wood...Good luck,but spray it first and let set for about 2 beers while spraying it....
Aluminum and brake fluid drew the heat away from the base, and propane doesn't get as hot as other options. I like this video because it's real, sometimes things just don't work out. Depending on the cost of a new caliper, more effort with oxyacetylene or easy outs and drilling might have worked. Even welding a nut onto the broken steel fragment works better than one would expect.
The last broken bleeder I had was in a small slave cylinder for a rear drum brake that was only $25. For that price, it's not worth the effort. After I put on the new one, for fun I tried to get it out. Nothing at all worked. The other thing this highlights is the extra hidden cost of cracking the bleeder at the time of each brake pad change. Many professionals recommend doing that but they don't explain the extra cost if one of the four bleeder screws breaks off.
spelunkerd I had to use the welding method on my 99' f350, the caliper is around $105 and that's just for the reman ones lol
Well, it's my believe that the bolts that sit untouched will rust solid. The once that are turned every once and a while will operate fine when you need them.
Also you might catch it in time, and get away with just changeing the bleeder.
Anyway, the brakefluid should be changed every now and then.
I never own a car long enough to test it out, but I have the practice of changeing brakefluid every 2. years (as normally recommended).
There’s no aluminum there. Even though he said the caliper is made of aluminum, it’s actually cast iron.
You should have started with the heat first thing but with oxy acetylene and small tip to pinpoint the heat before you rounded off the flats, Soak with penetrant first, wipe off the excess put six point socket on screw and hold counter clock wise pressure and heat the base metal, it has to be hot but not to the point of melting the part. If you get it to move then work it back and forth if doesn't come loose while still hot apply more penetrant and let cool and try again. Heating and cooling expand and contract the metal and allow penetrant to work in. Steel in aluminum is very difficult to remove. coat new bleeder with non hardening sealer or never seize. I have used this method in my boat shop for 35 years and it works the best of any thing I've tried. Taking the time to save a engine block or gear case is worth it but a caliper might be cheaper to replace it because you have to be patient it take time and time is money
+Steve Stonacek Excellent tips. Broken and stuck bolts can be so frustrating to remove. We'll keep these in mind for next time. Thanks for watching!
I have also drilled them out and tap the next size up
The best way is to use induction heat or weld a nut onto the bleeder bolt. I have never had a failure using my methods. The ways you showed are good for the shade tree mechanic.
Just freed up both front bleeders on a '92 Toyota from Wisconsin. Had to get the bleeder tips red hot. They are probably annealed now, so I will replace them.
try using 1/8 drill bit, makes bleeder screw stronger
The easy way you have to weld another nut on top it then easily loosen the good nut
I had this experience with a 2000 Chevrolet truck....aluminum caliper and steel bleeder. I cleaned the corrosion scale off the base of the bleeder were the threads start...put a small 6inch pipe wrench with a pipe over the end to get more leverage. Then just putting a little tension on the bleeder and tapping with a hammer around the base of the bleeder it finally twisted out. Each time it moved I sprayed a little oil.
I've worked on outboards, motorcycles, snowmobiles, etc for 45 years, a lot of aluminum! If you give a stuck bolt, or in this case the bleeder, a big wack on the head with a hammer and a punch it will in most cases come loose. Theory is that the thread in the aluminium will stretch just a bit and let the penetrant in. Sometimes I go back and forth with heat, then penetrant to actually quickly cool and suck the oil in.
Heat that puppy up till it's red hot and it will come out EVERY time , been doing breaks since 1985 and this method has always worked . For people that say "don't heat it up like because the heat with damage the piston seal" they don't know what they are talking about , breaks can get well over 500 degrees and the heat will NOT reach the seal and btw break fluid is NOT flammable . Do not heat the aluminum type calipers red hot because you'll end up melting it , just heat it up until you see a little smoke coming off .
Use freezing spray on the bleeder valve or use heat around the base and then freezing spray on the bleeder valve.
I'm gonna try this today and let you know the results....
you can also use a 6 inch pipe wrench as it will grip it better than vise grips
I need to know how to get the bleeder unstuck from the drum ... On a 03 cavalier
Air Chisel Socket Tool: Does it apply the hammer hits to the bleeder or the surrounding aluminum?
I've not seen anybody mention using reverse drill bits or easy outs to attempt to back out the sheared bleeder. You could also drill out the bleeder screw, clean the threads, and replace it with a new bleeder screw. Also, I see no reason why tapping larger and replacing with the next size bleeder wouldn't work. Depends on how much you want to do the job yourself, but I think you could use that caliper even if the bleeder shears.
Yea worst case scenario does happen I liked how he ended this tutorial!
At this point you may as well grind off the "nipple" on the screw with an angle grinder. Then try a left-handed drill bit the next size bigger than the center hole. (Don't drill all the way throught the screw and into the caliper, of course.) Increase the bit sizes until the drill screws out the screw. I've used this method numerous times with a 100% success rate, and have never even come close to the threads.
That's premature. His poor application of techniques failed the task. He handled the caliper like it was part of his dolly collection.
Same thing I suggested. Though I'd wait until it breaks by itself.
I admire your courage in this video. A man must know futility, when he is bested. Good job!
That is an amazing video. Mine sheared off. But that was a reference manual for every man's lifetime. Did you try... yes you did.
Thank you sir, indeed.
You are the best handy man.
Pretty much sums up my last weekend.
Tried hammering, impact driver on 12 socket, flare wrench, stripped it, propane, vice grips, screw extractor, broke it. 2nd screw extractor.. got stuck inside, more propane + Freeze Out. 0 progress. My mistakes. 1. didnt put broken drill bit inside. 2. NEVER use anything but the tightest fitting 6 socket. 3. Should have propane super heated, and then used impact/air. After I rounded it.. too late.
+dilbert mcfly Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
It's been more than 5 years since I bought an penetrating oil spray can. I have a Benzo torch that really comes in handy, and has saved me time.
This is obvious but if you are bleeding old brakes...buy new bleeder valves BEFORE you start. Even if all come loose....R&R Bleeder Valves and add light touch of anti seize before reinstalling. 1 Oz prevention worth 1 Lb cure.
If it doesn’t leak. And you have a banjo bolt fitting for the brake hose. You can always crack the hose at the banjo bolt and bleed caliper that way. If you’re really in a bind
+Volvo 850R Thanks for the feedback!
Heat the caliper with the torch and then hit the fitting with keyboard cleaner. Wash, rinse, repeat as needed. Be patient, works every time!!
I have 2 different bleeder screw sizes on my 1995 Yukon RWD. The passenger side is a regular 10mm one but the driver size is a THICK 8mm one. Why is that? That probably means I have 2 different calipers huh ?
I would also try to drill the dirt out of the center of the bleed screw. Then put penetrating oil in the middle and let it sit a few hours or days then try again. I also use teflon tape on the thread to minimize. The problem in the future
You think with today's technology they would come up with a better system,I use a six point 1/4 drive deepwell and one of those mini torches,and use a rag soaked in cold water,heat cool repeat a couple times working the ratchet both ways ,put just a little anti seize on there for the next time,great how to video
Ugh some one help bleeder valve won’t screw all the way in and get tight but it also won’t screw out and come out it’s stuck :/ literally turns right and left but won’t come out or go in ?? It’s brand new
Someone told me to put a nail inside the bleeder screw (of almost the same diameter as the hole) to prevent it from collapsing in on itself when you are torquing it loose. Never tried it yet but I know the next time I bleed my brakes those screws are going to give me a problem...
That's a good tip, and old 3mm drill bit can work too.
Also, after heating, apply candle wax, give it a few minutes to penetrate and bingo.
tapping a nail into the bleeder hole and clamping onto the bleeder with vice grip and working the bleeder back and forth will loosen the screw most of the time. use only one drop of penetrating oil at the base of the the bleeder threads where they go into the caliper. let it sit for one hour. then place the nail and clamp on the vice grips and start moving the bleeder back and forth. Works 99% of the time.
the old Drill bit / nail that fits snugly inside the stuck bleeder screw before you attempt to loosen the screw always works for me. You can get a lot more torque on the part as you wiggle it loose - back and forth.
The (very tight) vice grips and tapping with a hammer is what broke mine loose. Thank you so much.
+Justin Stonerock Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
For the years of owning various cars and driving them, I've never seen a brake bleeder nipple this stuck before. I'm shocked and curious how did it get to that point? Is the owner of the vehicle where that caliper came from braking too hard?
Just Heat the fitting itself(NOT the base) with MAPP gas(at least) until glowing & immediately quench with water. This WILL work.
Big tip, use physics to remove the bolt. You were half way there with the heat, but if you were to shock the metal with some ice cold water right after hitting it with a tortch it will cause the metal the shrink quickly breaking the bleeder away freely, also when using the tortch put it on the bleeder, that's what you want to shrink away from the threads.. try it my way and make another video showing the result on that same caliper
+G Patch Thanks for the tip!
Shouldve shown welding a nut to the broken remaining bit. Ive gotten manifold bolts broken sub-flush out of a head before. My favourite method.
Now I am going change all the califer of my car because mine are rusty it seems I couldn't take out, I hope I can find a second hand.
Thats real life , its not that easy to work as a DIY or even Licensed Tech . Things break, Nice Video,
Unlike other popular youtuber showing every thing is easy peasy thats actually not the case🤔
One last ditch effort, I once took a small nut that just fit over the bleeder and mig welded through the hole in the nut. The heat from welding and new threads from nut and it spun right off.
In between heating add the CRC or whatever oil you use. It will penetrate into the threads more easily because you have ever so slightly expanded the base material surrounding the bleeder screw.
I have heard that a drill bit can be used in that the cutting angle is the same as the bleeder screw seat so used carefully it might work..
oh boy...this is on my list ...i have 1 maybe 2 of these buggers that are rusted and stuck... i definitely don't want to have to buy new calibers...
When replacing the bleeder screw how do you prevent aitr fom getting into the system?
mmmm i find that a few good sharp blows with a hammer on the end of the bleeder usually shocks the corrosion free. I have recently had to apply this method on all four calipers on my 2007 Citroen C6 calipers .my home mix of acetone and hydraulic fluid makes a good penetrating oil
A method I used for many years on many applications with total success , I will describe the worst removal I achieved, Working as a maintenance fitter for the last 20 years of my career, my main duty was repairing Automatic Pneumatic Feed Drills These drills had a hydraulic control unit fitted to prevent the drill jumping forward on breakthrough and jamming with resultant drill bit breakage The valve body on the H .C.U was fitted with a hollow hex grub screw Bleeder that sealed on a taper face and was flush with the unit face when tight This screw was 5/32 diameter and had a groove down the length to let the oil pass when bleeding If the screw was over tightened it would crack and swell in the bleeder port almost impossible to remove,, But a little weld with an arc welder using a fine 16 th rod inside the hex would see it loosened and easily removed many times with no more that my fingers after it cooled of course This welding of broken studs has many applications with some modifications and has never failed me yet especially in aluminium bodied units such as the H.C.U On other broken studs flush with the unit surface I just build up a a projecting stubb and hammer a scrap nut over it and run a good weld ofer stubb and nut let it cool till just after the red disappears and rock it loose X tight when it moves use penetrating oil and unscrew. Hope this works for you as well as it has for me
thanks for all your tips. it helped. I managed to get it out. although a friend welded a bit extra as it sheered close to the body.
And NEVER replace the part till the bolt is broken off in that part. If it isn't but just won't come out it means there is still ways to possibly getting it out.
can u bleed it by bearly loosening the metal break line that connects to the rubber hose?
One can actually drill a hole into their STEEL brake lines and bleed them despite seized bleeder valves. But only if you are equipped and confident to weld it shut..
I have an idea how about drilling a hole to fit a ez out in if done right it may work I have seen this work that was never tried
You can also tach weld a bigger nut around the screw to gain more mechanical advantage something like that you are likely to brake the screw off and require to tap
awesome vid, I been having same prob, guess I will buy new calipers. thank you, very informative
I literally installed a brand new caliper yesterday, bled the brakes fine. Still had soft brakes, and when I went to bleed them again today, and my BRAND NEW bleeder screw is STUCK. I took vice grips to it and everything it will NOT budge
I replaced all four calipers on my suburban. They were all like this. Best thing you can do is break them loose every so often.
Very helpful info. Will have to try one of the above
He held the torch to close, the tip of the blue is what you want touching the part
My method is to clean the base of the screw. Heat the caliper at the base of the screw to about 200+ degrees. Apply 3 in 1 oil to the base of the screw and a little bit in the opening and let sit for 30 minutes (tapping the caliper occasionally). Have a can of compressed air handy and reheat the the caliper as before and spray the "screw" with the can of air with the can upside down. This will rapidly cool the screw. Quickly work the screw out with vice grips. Install new screws with a thin coat of copper anti-seize on the threads.
Corrosion and rust is the main factor here but, often mechanics over tighten these screws. Hand tight plus a nudge or about 5 ft lbs is all they need.
Lot of good tips there but for stuff like that you really have to figure out what your time is worth per hour and often its best to just buy another caliper or whatever it is you're working on.