Very clean. It's actually easy to forget that the "starter" anchor point at the corner of the mouth is really only meant to be a starting point, and that we encourage archers to find what works for them. However, often instructors and learners take this is dogma and don't allow themselves to use a different anchor.
Good Advice,. Thanks Mark. I wear glasses, and I find it is hard to get a consistent anchor. Been trying to draw the string to in front of my eye, but I think it shortens your draw. Gonna try it more to the side in the morning and see what happens.
This is amazing. I'm going to experiment with this. I've struggled a lot with how large the angle is between eye, shaft, and corner of mouth, so I'm constantly aiming extreme point low.
I am a rookie learning recurve bow,my tutor taught me that the anchor point is alway at the under side of chin ,but I can't do it well ,I just put my hand on the "side " to the chin ,I don't know whether it's correct or not... but it improve my accuracy definitely.
I think too many people overbow themselves with traditional equipment and they cannot develop good form and anchors they can hold long enough to even establish their shot cycle. Some bowhunters that have shot compound for years set on 60 or 70 pounds think they can start out with a 50 pound trad bow, and for many, I don't think that is realistic. I would start out with an inexpensive recurve like a Samick that pulled maybe 30-40 pounds max. If your state allows the poundage for hunting, and bare shaft tuning is done, these bows are powerful enough to take deer. Keep your shots inside 15 yards and aim low and several inches back behind the shoulder pocket to allow for deer drop and roll away. A long narrow 2 blade flies and penetrates the best with light bows. Zwickey No Mercy broadheads are affordable and decent quality carbon steel that sharpens easily. You can purchase steel broadhead adapters in 75, 100, and 125 grains. aluminum adapters in 50 grains, and field points in 175, 200, 225, and 250 grains to bareshaft tune that match the broadhead weights. You have to completely re-think archery when you go from compound to traditional equipment.
I think it depends on body structure more that we think , middle finger in the corner for me aligns me perfectly, I have a long forearm, short humerus , if I anchored like you, I'd be far out of alignment. You're teaching for your body type There are all types man 😉
Very clean. It's actually easy to forget that the "starter" anchor point at the corner of the mouth is really only meant to be a starting point, and that we encourage archers to find what works for them. However, often instructors and learners take this is dogma and don't allow themselves to use a different anchor.
Wonderful tutorial, really appreciated that
Love it! Im going to try your follow thru anchor. My release sucks. I mean my release sucks. Did I mention my release sucks!
Good Advice,. Thanks Mark. I wear glasses, and I find it is hard to get a consistent anchor. Been trying to draw the string to in front of my eye, but I think it shortens your draw. Gonna try it more to the side in the morning and see what happens.
This is amazing. I'm going to experiment with this. I've struggled a lot with how large the angle is between eye, shaft, and corner of mouth, so I'm constantly aiming extreme point low.
Very helpful, as I am still trying to nail down a consistent anchor point(s).
Good stuff. I like the idea of multi anchor points.
I am a rookie learning recurve bow,my tutor taught me that the anchor point is alway at the under side of chin ,but I can't do it well ,I just put my hand on the "side " to the chin ,I don't know whether it's correct or not... but it improve my accuracy definitely.
Nice explanation 👍
Good video Mark
I think too many people overbow themselves with traditional equipment and they cannot develop good form and anchors they can hold long enough to even establish their shot cycle. Some bowhunters that have shot compound for years set on 60 or 70 pounds think they can start out with a 50 pound trad bow, and for many, I don't think that is realistic. I would start out with an inexpensive recurve like a Samick that pulled maybe 30-40 pounds max. If your state allows the poundage for hunting, and bare shaft tuning is done, these bows are powerful enough to take deer. Keep your shots inside 15 yards and aim low and several inches back behind the shoulder pocket to allow for deer drop and roll away. A long narrow 2 blade flies and penetrates the best with light bows. Zwickey No Mercy broadheads are affordable and decent quality carbon steel that sharpens easily. You can purchase steel broadhead adapters in 75, 100, and 125 grains. aluminum adapters in 50 grains, and field points in 175, 200, 225, and 250 grains to bareshaft tune that match the broadhead weights. You have to completely re-think archery when you go from compound to traditional equipment.
What do you think would work for someone who wears glasses?
Your string will touch the glasses instead of the corner of your eye. I have to do it that way bowfishing.
Gday guys
I think it depends on body structure more that we think , middle finger in the corner for me aligns me perfectly, I have a long forearm, short humerus , if I anchored like you, I'd be far out of alignment.
You're teaching for your body type
There are all types man 😉