Badly Rotted Porch Columns Restored As New
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ส.ค. 2024
- Porch columns or posts often become rotted, especially on corners. It's common for the base to become badly damaged and the top can rot too. These two examples are from an old house and they were in very poor shape. Unfortunately I was unable to source similar replacements and replacing all of the porch columns with new was not in the budget.
Instead, I set about restoring them. In this video I'll go through the entire process and also discuss some of the repair options and tool choices you'll have as you go. I opted for a pegged, open mortise and tenon joint to replace rotted sections with new wood and the repairs worked very well while still staying within budget. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
I liked how you were able to create a good looking and structurally sound repair while at the same time using cost effective methods and materials. I’ve found it’s easy to get lost in the weeds in projects like this and you avoided that - thanks for sharing.
nice repair well dun
great workmanship !
What a great video and job! No pot shots from me, this was a lesson learned for me. So good to know there are people out there who can do what I cannot. Very nice work!!!
Thanks for the kind words!
Nice repair. Thank you for sharing.
Nice job! I also learned a lot thanks.
✌💜🐖💨
Nice work.
Very nice
Great work. You come to south central ohio for the prize of a free dinner! The cuts are the only ones i make with a radial arm saw. Come in the spring to my shop that focuses on remaking old wood architecture! Love the channel!
Thank you!
Great repair John. Tom Silva(ish)... :)
I would have used Woodepox. Great job! 👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks. No matter what epoxy or filler you use, it is necessary to cut out the rot and damage or else the decay will continue. And, when a repair needs to be structural caution should be used. I will use West System epoxy or bondo on some types of repairs, but for something like this I prefer to replace the rot with solid wood.
Loved the repair, this will definitely be added to my arsenal of repair techniques. Did you do anything with the PT 6x6 to prep for paint? Most of the PT available around me is still so wet that they recommend letting it dry for months before attempting to paint it.
Yeah, working with today's pressure treated wood can be a challenge. The first thing I do is choose carefully which lumber I buy. Since the box stores bring the pressure treated lumber indoors I use that to my advantage and look for the pieces in the middle of the pile. Those have dried out more gradually and tend to be in better shape. I don't agree with the idea of waiting months for wood to dry out before painting it. In the mean time the wood fibers on the surface are exposed to UV light and begin to degrade, plus the whole piece will dry too quickly. Instead, I use a moisture meter and experience to at least get some primer on the bare wood as soon as possible. Even 12-14% moisture is okay. The wood will continue to dry after painting, but more slowly and stay more stable.
Great video with some fantastic techniques and explanations. Greatly appreciated! I have two questions.
1) The Morise is about 1" deep?
2) If you were to drill the dowels straight through full length would that work? Or do they need to come from both ends?
Love the block plane trick.
Thanks again for sharing your wisdom and skills.
I've forgotten now how deep the mortise was, but probably around 1 1/2 or 1 5/8. You could drill through the entire post for the dowels, but it can get a little tricky for alignment with a long drill bit and there isn't a real benefit.
@@enduringcharm
Oh okay, I was just wondering. Thanks for the update.
Just like brand new. If the rot had gone into the turned sections do you bust out the lathe than or what would you have done?
My lathe goes up to three feet in length, but that turned portion might have been a bit longer. At that point, though, it wouldn't make financial sense to save the column anymore. I would have been forced to place a special order or use a different style. The only time I would hand-turn a column or baluster, etc., is when it's an historic example which can't easily be replicated.
Is there a particular latex primer paint combo that you have found to work well on the pressure treated wood
It's not so much the paint that's the challenge but the moisture content in the wood. And, the quality of PT wood is a factor as well. Pressure treated wood today is a poor quality, fast growth pine with a very high moisture content. The preservative is entirely copper now. The piles of PT lumber are shipped and stored wet, unless you find a pile that has been sitting inside a retail store for a long period. So if you paint the PT lumber immediately the high moisture content will prevent good adhesion by the primer, and the high shrinkage rate of the lumber as it does dry out will also cause paint issues. On the other hand, if you wait a long period before painting to allow drying and shrinking you could also introduce other problems, such and cracking and checking of the lumber or an oxidized surface.
What I would recommend is to get a moisture meter. I have several video reviews of moisture meters you could check out. When the lumber for exterior use has a moisture content below 15% or so it generally safe to paint. I also highly recommend sanding with a fairly rough grit paper before priming, to get rid of mill glaze and surface oxidation. This surface prep will ensure a good bond. For primer, I've had good experience over the years with the latex Zinsser 123, both for interior and exterior work. Allow time for the primer not only to dry but to cure. This may take several days. If the green copper preservative bleeds through the primer, you may need to do a second prime coat before applying two finish coats of paint.
@@enduringcharm I ended up using the kilz3 and I am pretty happy with the results, two coats. Now a latex paint. Thanks for the reply and video, I ended up repairing the post the same way you did. I’d post a pic but can’t