You should have supported the end of the post when you cut it. It did not lay flat on the saw base. Cut was not normal to the post vertical vector. That would create pressure concentration line at bottom of soffit. 2-3' Pipe placed over wrench handle would have given you a longer moment arm (cheater bar) and made for much easier screwing of the jack.
they make metal plates for bottom to keep wood off concrete to protect from water. use concrete stud to anchor plates to porch.. .water will soften wood, porch roof will slowly come down.
Nice work. You can also use a bottle jack or floor jack and a 2 2x4 screwed together or a chunk of 4x4 if you have one. Just make sure they are good shape (don't leak down) before you use it. Especially if you are doing them one at a time. Moving into a new place and will be doing this again soon. I was planning to use a galvanized shoe that bolts on the concrete that you bolt. Then you screw the post of the shoe and cover with trim. That way the trim at the bottom is sacrificial and your post won't move or wick water from the bottom.
To mount the shoe you drill a hole in the concrete (1/2) and use some 1/2 inch read head slip anchors and bolt them to the concrete. That is covered with 1x4 cedar trim. Not that just putting them on there with the weight won't do it. The show and anchor can take the water better and the post won't wick anything up. We use the anchors for telecommunications racks. Nice and secure.
@@fromvega for the slide anchors? While you have the post out you drill the concrete with a roto hammer. Set the the anchor in the hole with a hammer. Place the shoe on the bolt... tighten the bolt. Then cut the wood to length. The shoe will have holes in on two sides for screws to secure the post to the shoe.
I bet the inside face of that new post was a mess after that hammer gave it a beating. Could have used a wood block to protect face? These appear to be "appearance" grade beams. Just sayin..
Why wouldn"tl you measure the post you took out? or lay it on top of the new post and scribe a line and cut it there? Just wondering cause how you looked at the tape from below you may not have signted the right masurement. Great video, I need one of those poles to repace two columns. Thank You for sharing.
Bottom of the old post was rotted away, so some settling may have occurred, so he needed to check the level of the roof, too, to get length of the post .
@@finallythere100 You need to use a 4 x4 post. In the bottom of post you can drill a hole about 1/2 deep the same size of the top of the bottle jack so it doesn't move, then on top you can use a piece of 2 x 4 to hold more area on top.
the undo stress you placed on your house will show up somewhere in time measure the old post and cut hope you don't crack anything major. you should of cut the second time
Looks really nice on your house. A stand out feature. Thanks for the video.
I replaced my front posts with a 2 and 1/2 ton floor jack and a 2x4. You only have to raise it maybe 1/2 inch or less.
Yeah, i used a jack too and a 4X4 and it worked great
You should have supported the end of the post when you cut it. It did not lay flat on the saw base. Cut was not normal to the post vertical vector. That would create pressure concentration line at bottom of soffit. 2-3' Pipe placed over wrench handle would have given you a longer moment arm (cheater bar) and made for much easier screwing of the jack.
they make metal plates for bottom to keep wood off concrete to protect from water. use concrete stud to anchor plates to porch.. .water will soften wood, porch roof will slowly come down.
Now I know the struggle is universal
Nice work!
Nice work. You can also use a bottle jack or floor jack and a 2 2x4 screwed together or a chunk of 4x4 if you have one. Just make sure they are good shape (don't leak down) before you use it. Especially if you are doing them one at a time. Moving into a new place and will be doing this again soon. I was planning to use a galvanized shoe that bolts on the concrete that you bolt. Then you screw the post of the shoe and cover with trim. That way the trim at the bottom is sacrificial and your post won't move or wick water from the bottom.
To mount the shoe you drill a hole in the concrete (1/2) and use some 1/2 inch read head slip anchors and bolt them to the concrete. That is covered with 1x4 cedar trim. Not that just putting them on there with the weight won't do it. The show and anchor can take the water better and the post won't wick anything up. We use the anchors for telecommunications racks. Nice and secure.
@@Danman1972 can you refer me to a video or pictures of this type of installation? Tks
@@fromvega for the slide anchors? While you have the post out you drill the concrete with a roto hammer. Set the the anchor in the hole with a hammer. Place the shoe on the bolt... tighten the bolt. Then cut the wood to length. The shoe will have holes in on two sides for screws to secure the post to the shoe.
Thank you for this video jist what I was looking for.
Is there anything that I can use for the top to secure it?
Awesome 👏🏼
I bet the inside face of that new post was a mess after that hammer gave it a beating. Could have used a wood block to protect face? These appear to be "appearance" grade beams. Just sayin..
Use your old post as your measurement.😉
Yes if its not rotten like mine is.
That’s exactly what I said.
it never crossed his mind that perhaps the old one would be exactely what size he needs@@Rosepetals116
Good job brotha
Camera quality is elite. 😳😳 what’s the camera ?
Didn't that have any with a crank?
Good video
Why wouldn"tl you measure the post you took out? or lay it on top of the new post and scribe a line and cut it there? Just wondering cause how you looked at the tape from below you may not have signted the right masurement. Great video, I need one of those poles to repace two columns. Thank You for sharing.
Bottom of the old post was rotted away, so some settling may have occurred, so he needed to check the level of the roof, too, to get length of the post .
Looks like that post jack tool is really hard to use and might be easier to use a bottle jack.
How does the top get screwed in? Diagonally?
@@finallythere100 You need to use a 4 x4 post. In the bottom of post you can drill a hole about 1/2 deep the same size of the top of the bottle jack so it doesn't move, then on top you can use a piece of 2 x 4 to hold more area on top.
Or use a bigger wrench to turn
If that is the Tiger brand at Home Dept, you just doubled your money as they are almost $140😂
what keeps the post in place at the bottom?
Pressure
Brackets. He shows them at the end.
Should of used tapcom screws and floor plates
🤣
60$ two years ago now its double the price. what a BS and i need two. 120$ for couple metal tubes
Can I borrow your post jack
Can you provide a link to the post jack ? The cheapest one I see is $155
You can get a decent bottle jack and a length of 4x4 to do the same thing. And you'll have other uses for the bottle jack over time.
@@AndyNorrisForReals
True!
That's a gougy price, even for those guys! Use it and return it maybe? 😉😅✌️
Lol Mr. Persuader!
Like Suzanne Simmons said measure that post and you have your measurement
the undo stress you placed on your house will show up somewhere in time measure the old post and cut hope you don't crack anything major. you should of cut the second time
Cant find any post jacks for $60.
Akron has a few ranging from 50- 140
It looks like you were having a hard time with getting the exact measurement. Could you not measure the post you removed?
Suzanne you are one smart cookie 🍪 😉 smarter than the guy trying to get a accurate measurement. 👍✌🖖😁
Bottom of the post was rotted away to start with, he needed to check the level on the porch for any settling that it may have done.
haha why not just use old beam as a template cut guide for your new beam
End grain of post just sitting on concrete? Nah.
come back when you get some experience under your belt
Might want not want your $100.00 posts in direct contact with concrete. Even cedar will suck up water especially from concrete.