I must say this was some what a guess. The part as it applies to this locomotive won’t move at high speed so hopefully it’s close enough otherwise I will be back to making them again.
Im glad i watch your videos :-). I need to make a new crank for my Pamela (3 Cylinder) and this does look better, and far more accurate than the 3 piece currently installed or doing the interference cutting method. So as always another great video. At the rate your going it will be ready for our next 3.5" gauge rally down here in the south island. :-)
More accurate but less exciting than the one piece... it might take a little longer than you think to finish it, the to do list for it seems to be getting longer all the time. Cheers
SS Workshop my 2 month rebuild of the pamela is now out to 8 months as I need to redo all the axles/wheels as they are out of true as well as the centre crank and then there are the steam leaks in the pipes and the faulty injector so I know how it goes. But just incase it’s around October 🙂 But we do it every year. All 3.5” and smaller welcome.
SS Workshop I thought I would take a break from building my own to restoring someone else’s. Talk about inheriting issues 😁. I meant to say as well that there is a section on splitting the firebox in Martin Evans book if you have it. I remember mentioning the process to you in another of your videos.
Thanks for reminding me, I do recall that. I just found the section on smokeboxes in the book, will put some more thought into how I can make it work it would certainly make life easier in the future.
If you push in & weld the pin before you mill the shape of the counter weight etc, wouldn't it make the crank stronger to do all the milling on it before cutting out the shaft in the middle? also no edge burn when welding in the crack-pin? good work by the way, I'm enjoying watching the videos :)
Thanks, you make a good point, my thought was once I drilled the hole, it was aligned in the rotary table. But think it wouldn’t be to much effort to line up again after welding now you mention it. I give it a go when I make the other 3, my out of practice welding needs all the help it can get. Cheers.
Thanks. Yes safer and more accurate. Interesting thought with the taper pins, I assume you mean for fixing the offset pin. I guess you could if the crank was large enough or the pins small enough it’s really about getting a strong connection so silver solder would be the traditional model engineering solution if I didn’t have the TIG welder at the end of my bench.
Nice video again..... Great work.....
Need that milling maschine.... 😊😉
Nice Weekend!
hi ssw
interesting and enjoyable video, like the look of the fell engine, see you next time
regards
mr f
Thanks Mr F, I have been enjoying following your build as well
This is awesome. How did you work balance out.
I must say this was some what a guess. The part as it applies to this locomotive won’t move at high speed so hopefully it’s close enough otherwise I will be back to making them again.
Im glad i watch your videos :-). I need to make a new crank for my Pamela (3 Cylinder) and this does look better, and far more accurate than the 3 piece currently installed or doing the interference cutting method. So as always another great video. At the rate your going it will be ready for our next 3.5" gauge rally down here in the south island. :-)
More accurate but less exciting than the one piece... it might take a little longer than you think to finish it, the to do list for it seems to be getting longer all the time. Cheers
SS Workshop my 2 month rebuild of the pamela is now out to 8 months as I need to redo all the axles/wheels as they are out of true as well as the centre crank and then there are the steam leaks in the pipes and the faulty injector so I know how it goes. But just incase it’s around October 🙂 But we do it every year. All 3.5” and smaller welcome.
I’m sure that’s how all builds go, I should be ready by October 2025 at current pace... hopefully a little earlier but not getting hopes up ;)
SS Workshop I thought I would take a break from building my own to restoring someone else’s. Talk about inheriting issues 😁. I meant to say as well that there is a section on splitting the firebox in Martin Evans book if you have it. I remember mentioning the process to you in another of your videos.
Thanks for reminding me, I do recall that. I just found the section on smokeboxes in the book, will put some more thought into how I can make it work it would certainly make life easier in the future.
If you push in & weld the pin before you mill the shape of the counter weight etc, wouldn't it make the crank stronger to do all the milling on it before cutting out the shaft in the middle? also no edge burn when welding in the crack-pin? good work by the way, I'm enjoying watching the videos :)
Thanks, you make a good point, my thought was once I drilled the hole, it was aligned in the rotary table. But think it wouldn’t be to much effort to line up again after welding now you mention it. I give it a go when I make the other 3, my out of practice welding needs all the help it can get. Cheers.
Congratulations. That looks a lot safer then the one piece crank. Would you ever consider taper pins for the offset pin?
Thanks. Yes safer and more accurate. Interesting thought with the taper pins, I assume you mean for fixing the offset pin. I guess you could if the crank was large enough or the pins small enough it’s really about getting a strong connection so silver solder would be the traditional model engineering solution if I didn’t have the TIG welder at the end of my bench.
It’s a lot easier and quicker to fabricate and silver solder the crank shaft out of silver steel.
you can just buy a new crankshaft from a 100cc motorcycle.. cost less than 100usd..
Interesting but where’s the fun in that?
It’s a lot easier and quicker to fabricate and silver solder the crank shaft out of silver steel.