SNS 306 Part 2: Milling Okuma Tool Block
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ย. 2024
- We finish up the mods on the Okuma TL-20 tool block. Here we'll use the K&T milling machine to machine the mounting face of the tool block.
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Adam, some of us, including myself, think you may have made a 5mm error in the machining, and also may have made some assumtions in the straightness of the bore to the key. A follow up video to address these concerns, and an inspection of the bore centerline to the key centerline would be great. If you messed up, no biggie, happens to the best of us. If there was no mistake and part meets print/intent then job well done. But if there was a mistake and we find out later...there's gonna be some 'splaining to do.
I haven't seen the man answering any viewer questions for a long time - probably more than a year. So don't hold your breath. 😉
He's probably busy spending the financial windfall he gets from youtube. 😊
SNS 306 Part 3: Milling a new Okuma Tool Block
Oh snap
Lol.. Maybe? And mill the center bore on the machine so it perfect? Look at me a TH-cam expert by reading only a few comments..
Now I won't be able to sleep until Adam responds about the 20 vs 25mm issue. 😬
I will because it's not my part, haha.
Enjoyed the video as usual, but I must offer a thought...at 9:32 you said you hit your target of 80 mm from surface to vice, I think you should have been at 85 mm to allow for the finish end milling to give the key spline a 5 mm projection above the new 80 mm dim. Back in part one, to position an irregular shape in the 4 jaw with the existing bore, I use a large conical guide in the tail stock to rough position the workpiece. No math required. Still watching and enjoying your work ethic.
Waiting for Part 3 redoing the part...
I second that.
@@zephyrold2478 3d
😂😂 hahaha. I was thinkin "Im pretty sure he f#*&@ed up."
Yeah, I am pretty sure he was only supposed to drop the top surface by 20mm and leave the key sticking up by 5mm down the center. Now it is 5mm too short.
I think it was just for clearance for the machines turret to rotate so i dont think an extra 5mm would be a huge deal
Sorry to say, the key may now be 0.005" off center.
Also, shouldn't the surface and key be 5mm higher?
Just checking,
Dave
I was worrying 25mm key was supposed to be proud of 80mm.
I went back and checked the first video, it seems the main block should have been shaved down 20mm and the key should stand proud by 5 mm (total height including the key 85mm) which means the block should have been shaved down 15mm leaving the final milling to take the main block down to 80mm and the key standing proud at 5mm height, or maybe I misunderstood the first video.
Yep, I just did the same. My thoughts were also mill off the key plus 15mm, then mill down 5mm leaving the key protruding.
had the same thoughts
@max nex You posted your comment as I was typing mine :)
Here's your answer: th-cam.com/video/1W8xUj2VeBg/w-d-xo.html =)
He also indicated the shaft up and down but never checked it side to side.
Tune in next week when Adam mills Bill a new tool holder. Lol
No, he can mill a 25mm wide keyway centered on the 2" hole(if it is off by .005") then fabricate a key that protrudes 5mm. Drill & Tap for 2 countersunk head screws to hold it in place.
I could taste adrenalin when Adam started that third pass without leaving material for the forming of the key.
Isn’t the block now 75 mm thick with 5 mm protrusion for the key? Did I miss it?
that is how i see it
Yep, that's what i see also.
Yep. I think Adam went 5mm too low.
@@boogieman3165 well he said that the height isnt realy important, just for clearence
@@KZ-ko4vm I agree .. and I went back and watched the first video again .,.. it's messed up :(
He did mention that the overall 20mm drop wasn't a critical dimension - just for clearance - so hopefully its not too big of a deal that the overall height at the top of the key is now roughly 80mm and the deck is roughly 75mm (as opposed to 80mm deck height with key 5mm proud). But it does look like that extra 5mm was the difference between getting into the countersinks and missing them - but who knows if those holes are even being used. Whatever the case may be im sure Adam will let us know - and if it DOES happen to be an issue I'm completely certain Adam would make it right - that's just the kinda dude he is :)
You know that 5mm is closing in on 1/4" right? That's a pretty big difference. Not critical means within a few thousandths, not a couple hundred.
Not countersinks, counterbores young'n.
@@kypackerfan4-12-15 you're right - flat bottomed in this case so - you win on a technicality :)
Hopefully I'm wrong, but it seemed as if you took the whole thing down, including the key, the amount you were supposed to just take down the mating surface. Then you took down the mating surface more to create the key. That would mean the whole thing is shorter than planned. I hope I misread the situation.
Me Now I was thinking the same
Me too.
Same here...
It's a non critical dimension, just to provide clearance.
@@Abom79 I wish I understood what that means.
Was the 80MM supposed to be the height of the block or to the top of the key? I thought I remember you measuring the height of the block separate from the key and saying 80MM. I could be wrong, wouldn't be the first time.
first pass was 20mm from the top of the key i think, then 5mm more
@@emy1111 that's what I'm saying, so now the block itself is 75mm and the key is 5mm taller at 80mm. I thought the block was supposed to be 80mm with the key at 5mm taller at 85mm.
I was thinking that he need to remove 20mm, but he take off 20mm + 5 mm.
The panic was real, when you took it all down to 80. 🚨😱
Yes. Did i too miss understand the 80 mm face. I thought it ended up 75 mm.
Not just me then 😂
This video shows why mills took over for shapers, man that was a fast and deep looking cut on that first pass. So cool
Didn't you want to cut that down to 85mm with the flycutter? Then cut 5mm more off each side to make the key, leaving 80mm height? Or did I misunderstand which part was supposed to be 80mm?
Quinn is going crazy with envy watching this huge cutter just sail through that metal.
Oups the -20 was not from the key but from the base now its -25. You should have gone -15 and then cut -5 for the key. That way the recessed screw holes on the back side would be intact also
I'm glad it's not just me that thought that. Touch off surely should have been the top of the key, not the base.
A slight lapse of concentration. We all make mistakes eh. I just hope it still works for the customer.
@@jemijona He said it was just for clearance anyway... I'm sure it's not going to make much difference.
Jeez, I'm glad that I am thinking the same thing most of us are about the 75mm vs 80mm question (esp. since I'm not a machinist!) But he did say that it's just for clearance, @ 4:30
Part 1, 1:24
"but we will get it really close"
Surely you needed to go 85mm, and then take the shoulders down to 80mm?
Robin Szemeti I was thinking the same thing
According to what you stated in video 1 deck height was to be 80mm not 75mm, please clarify
Edward Silva 5mm key +75 mm =80 🤷🏻♂️
@@henrypasini6827 Deck height, not key height. Part 1 he indicates the main body to be reduced to 80mm. 80mm + 5mm key height = 85mm. Go back and watch Part 1 at 1:24
Hey Adam, love all your machining work.
Umm, I'm not sure I got this right, but... did you take that block down 5mm too far? The -20mm was written on the face of the block at 100mm. With the 5mm key it would have been a total of 105mm high.
You cut 20mm off the face of the block, plus removed the key, then went down a further 5mm to recreate the key. The block would have then been 75mm. Or did I just misunderstand the specs on this one?
As soon as I thought of that I came to the comments to see if anyone else thought the same thing. Maybe there's something else that we don't know about
I just did the same calculation and came to the same conclusion. Glad to see that I'm not the only one who noticed this. Hope it doesn't matter that much to the owner.
I made the same calculations in my head, I was hoping I mathed wrong and came to the comments to double check. :X he did say about 80mm, so many it's in spec?!
I was thinking the same thing. Also, another 5mm would have cleared the washer holes on the back side.
He never told us if he touched off on the top pf the keyway or the lower face... thats all that matters. Hopefully he did his first cut at .263 off the top of the key and not from the face!
When the final cut was made with the carbide tool I was yelling at my computer because he was hogging 5mm too much off the part. Then I thought, o.k. maybe he is going to mill a 25mm groove for an extra key then he proceeded to mill another 5 off the part and then when I saw that it was getting into the fastener recess I thought game over and Booth Machine shop just bought that tool and that huge piece of scrap he has been playing with in the shaper might come in handy to make another part from scratch. But no mention of the error or anything? Props for posting the mistake because we are all human but no explanation at all?
I had my head in my hand all the way.
Davis King me too🤣
Here's your answer: th-cam.com/video/1W8xUj2VeBg/w-d-xo.html =)
I did the same thing! I believe the part height should have been 80 mm with an extra 5 mm high key in the center. I don't think he realized the mistake yet. Although it is quite possible that Adam misspoke about the total height. I'm curious to see how this turns out.
Oh I get it, Abom knows it was milled incorrectly and is testing us to see if we are paying attention.
From Part 1 the mounting surface was marked to go down to 80 mm, measured 100 mm so needed to remove 20 mm. The 25 mm key(not key way) could be all the way across the part; so it could have been taken down 20 mm also to accomplish that. That means to me that the end mill could have been used to do all of the removal; the sides then the key. Not near as much fun as the way done but would have been a less step. From the math stated in Part 1 everything seems to be 5 mm too low by slabbing off down to 80 mm then removing another 5 mm to leave the key. If I am wrong I am extremely sorry but this was my understanding of the final dimensions.
I could be all screwed up because I got up this morning thinking it was Sunday and got ready for church only to discover it was Saturday; Oh well.
I agree , I hope I am wrong.. maybe he will come back and clear the water !
Hi Adam
I’m a longtime quiet viewer!! Love your content! I have some observations from this video. You started at 100mm, then hogged off 20 mm, then cut off 5mm to create key. My math adds to 25mm cut off, leaving 75mm. Did you misspeak that 80mm was to be height of key? Also you didn’t use a jack stand, or shims to prop up the bore. How do you know that nothing shifted?? Also shouldn’t you have de-burr the key before measuring.
I noticed that too. Adam made a mistake by not measuring from the height of the key.
The first 4 minutes is exactly why I sent this project to you Adam! Thanks again for the excellent craftsmanship!
Was the part on size or 5mm short?
You identify as Bill? Hopefully it works as intended!
I’m guessing the same wheelie king from practical machinist?
The camera skills in this video! Lighting and viewing angles. Picture quality. Wow! This is not just about machining - also the skills involved here to make this a pleasing experience to watch! Thank you Adam!
I think my life needs an anti backlash knob.
I was REALLY expecting that to go in the shaper!! :)
Same here.:-(
Sorry, haven't you machined too much off? In part one you say block 80mm for clearance which would be ample, with a key height of 5mm which equal an overall height of 85mm not 80mm
I cannot help but think that the block is 5mm to short now. regards.
Maybe a save would be to slot the centre and drop in a full length key that is now proud of the 80mm....and make sure its centred on the shaft center line ;^)
Surely you took too much off with the fly cutter? You took the whole side down to 80mm. Surely you should have taken it to 85mm, to give the correct height for the key and then used the end mill to take the extra 5mm for the mating surface to final dimension? or am I missing something from the first video's dimensional spec?
That's what I thought too.
Here's your answer: th-cam.com/video/1W8xUj2VeBg/w-d-xo.html
Hi Adam, I think you dropped it 25mm, I thought you would have taken off 15mm to leave 85mm to allow for 5mm key. Maybe it is not critical, am I wrong?
That was my take on the description...
Face depressed 20mm with a 5mm proud key.
I thought it was just me thinking that.
yup
A dimensioned drawing provided by the customer would have cleared up some issues here. A place I used to work had a term for it, AVO ; "avoid verbal orders"
As a 20 year old manual machining apprentice, I look to you for a lot of techniques. I strive to be as good as you are one day. Thanks for some great machining content. Its always great to see you post a video.
Really enjoy watching your videos. But my wife walked out in my wood shop this morning and caught me with a micrometer on a piece of plywood. She asked me what the h I was doing? I blamed it on some guy on youtube.
Sorry to throw you under the bus. Lol.
Keep making them, I'm hooked.
I might have missed something, but I have a question:
If the height was supposed to be 80mm instead of 100, with a 5mm key, why didn't Adam take it to 85mm then cut in the keyway, (as how it is now, the keyway is at 80mm, but the body is at 75mm,) or am I missing something in the specs?
Same guestion popped to My mind as well. From My view point The top would Be at 75mm aswell.
I thought exactly the same. Maybe the 80mm was supposed to be to the top of the key rather than the deck.
My thought as soon as I started watching.
Now, one thing that it MIGHT be, is the height had to be at least 20mm dropped, and the rest can be calibrated with the machine for things like center, etc. So maybe Adam mis-spoke, or it is an issue. If worse comes to worst, he does have the sample shaper square he can cut, shape and drill to shape from...
This can end up being a great example why those "unnecessary" drawing's are so important. They make communication unambiguous, help's machinist to concentrate to actual work and they give a reference to check against. We all make mistakes, I hope the mistake was in my understanding and and all the best to Adam.
didnt you go down to 75? you went to 80, then 5 more for the key?
Dahl I think you are correct.. Adam usually doesn’t make mistakes but this time I think he did.. I haven’t watched it all the way thru yet...
first pass was 20mm from the top of the key i think, then 5mm more
@@emy1111 At 9.27 he measured the block at 80mm, then took 5mm more to form the key.
Matt Young 80mm is 3.1496 which is what he measured after milling it flat,
before going another 5mm deep for the key...he had a chance to save it before that last pass.
@@ianmuggeridge he was measuring from the top of the new keyway which is now the length of the block. I am a bit confused now though lol.
It looks like the way it was milled so the keyway is now at 80 mm in thickness and the deck is at 75 mm 🤔🤔🤔
I thought he would’ve taken a 20 mm cut and then another 20 mm cut then a 15 mm cut and then a 5 mm cut to expose the keyway.
Although he did say the 80 mm wasn’t critical so if it’s at 75 probably not a big deal.
I just love watching all the milling. It’s very cool👍
He said the 20mm was for clearance. Let's hope that the 5mm extra off won't ruin the part.
He made this thing 7 weeks ago (per Instagram). It was a dirt cheap ebay part that needed some clearance. I think everything's going to be alright.
Have you milled 5 mm too much away? I think you forgot that the key is 5mm higher.
that's what I was thinking too...
Good techniques, just bad at maths 😕
I went back to part one just to make sure. But remember, Adam did say that the 80 mm height was not critical, the most important thing was that the bore was parallel to the machined surface. At least we know there should be no chance of insufficient clearance.
I think he said earlier in the video that the 80mm wasn't a critical measurement.
yeah, the holes for the washers on the front face were no longer round. oops
GaryC i agree, if the total height needed to be 80 and the orginal key was 5mm proud of the orginal 100, should he have not stopped at 85???
That cutter is a monster.
Umm, I don't know why I am getting involved here other than that I have great respect for Adam. I also was a software engineer and systems architect. First, Adam knew that the measurement wasn't critical. He wasn't cutting into threads or anything vital. The customer wanted ample clearance, perhaps he got a bit more than he thought he was getting. The primary problem here is that the customer apparently didn't provide a blueprint! Frankly, he deserves whatever he gets. Believe me, my professional butt was saved more than once by a coder who knew what I wanted, rather than what I said.
I will give thanks you're not a systems architect in the company I work for.
Looks like 5mm to much was taken off? It sounded like the block should have been milled to 85mm overall height, then 5mm more taken off to create the key. Is cutting into the washer sockets going to cause problems when mounting, will the washers/ bolts need to be trimmed?
That's what I thought.
@@poppyrider5541 I as well. It appears that the main body was reduced to 75mm and the top of the key 80mm. Going by the way it was explained in part 1 1:24.
eggs actly!
looks like he scrapped that part
I cringed on the 3rd pass of the "hog", thinking Bill had wanted -20mm to the top of the key!!
Me too. Especially because he cut into the recessed holes on the side.
I think I finally realized why I like to watch you work so much. While you can measure with great accuracy, truth is not confirmed until the round bar fits precisely into the round hole. You are an island of truth in this post truth world. Thanks
it’s really surprising with the ease that he has worked with it is machine and he is good at explaining things, I would see him as a teacher in a school
I think your finish height on the main block ended up to be 75mm not 80mm plus 5mm for the key. "I think", I could be wrong ! Enjoy your videos.
So you dropped it down 20mm and shaved off the original key... then cut down 5mm to make the new key... Doesn't that mean you dropped the overall mounting 25mm??? or did you only take 15mm at first? Or am I a complete goof? (Likely regardless of the math)
I guess I’m a goof to I thought the same thing
I am thinking the same thing. 20mm is 0.787402" and he made 3 (even?) passes and the last of which was 0.263". He should have stopped at 15mm and then cut the sides another 5mm.
Yeah I thought the same thing...
Not a goof, unless we misunderstood the original plan.
I'm wondering if the 80mm he was given was the height to the key.
Love the power of those big machines. The Cincinatti machines I used to run were the same way. You just plowed your way through.
Something about watching metal being ground up has a therapy calming affect.
Didn't he just mill off 5 mm too much?
I'm at the 9:00 mark and had to stop and look at the comments. I'm thinking "no you dummy!"
Brian Boorman @4:32 he clearly says it’s not a critical dimension just clearance. The key dimensions are what matter.
Both of your cutters were cutting very nicely. The chips were coming off very evenly. A sine the cutters were running true . Very nice job.
I be confused. The keyway should have been central to the bore, no?
I think so, too
mlt .I think it is central, but there's an optical illusion making it look off centre.
The key way is central to the bore. There is no optical illusion. It is right in the center 40pm on each side, 25mm key, is 105mm.
so... 20mm off the top ... and another 5mm to get the key... hmmm thats 25mm ? Was it not planed a 20mm of the top ? Math hurts.... :/
Did we just have a Bozo visit at the Abom shop?
that's what I thought too!! either he made a mistake or explained it wrong to us.... he explained it as 80 to the top then the key would be above the 80
I think you are right. Looks like he cut too much off.
@@TC-bz9dz That what i thought too, looking at video 1 does show 80mm.. there no 80mm anymore after he shaved of sides down some more.
I like these large diameter flat mills with inserts. They are quite voracious but can also create incredibly smooth surfaces at slow feed rates.
Would 5mm less off the face have left the holes on the side intact?
5mm is .196 so yes i would think so
Counterbores .
I am wondering if you didn't cut that down so the mounting surface is at 75mm and the alignment key at 80mm? Something ain't right.
I second that, he clearly stated lower the face 20mm and now it is down 25mm.
@@zephyrold2478 My thought exactly, though he did say it wasnt critical. Only for clearance in the lathe. But still its 25 mm down.
I was expecting an "oh sh*t" moment.
Thanks much for video. Big thanks fot metric tools that you use. Wojtek from Poland
That milling though! And I'm just sitting here excited that I used an 1/8 endmill without breaking it after 10 broken ones.
Same here
with tolerances in thousandths, I doubt it will matter, but it's now NOT in the exact center of the thing?
A surface grinder would be a nice addition to the shop
Simple but a pleasure to watch. Dedication to excellence!
Hi Adam...please clarify the measurements for all of us that are confused. Thanks.
I noticed the slight mistake in height measurements too... 80 mm. 75 mm. doesn't matter. that's in the x-axis of the machine when the toolholder is mounted, and it just gives more clearance over the ways and guards of the machine.
I also counted the cuts as wrong. 0.262" x 3 is 19.96 mm, but the extra 5 for the key makes it a 25 mm not 20 mm. Ar we wrong?
Correct, but from personal experience at my shop, it will cause issues because one day somone will set up a drill in that holder and wonder why it is cutting almost .4 oversized.
That is quite big mistake, not "slight"
@@rendicz5595 well, it was and it wasn't... the part is still fully useable in the cnc because the cnc doesn't care where the tool is located in the toolholder. it works off of the tip of the insert in the boringbar. it's a non-critical dimension... as i said, it´s in the x-axis direction, so it has no effect on a boringbar. if it were to hold a drill instead, it would have to be measured exactly where the center of the hole is to use it. but then the customer probably wouldn't have said "20mm off that face". he would probably have given the dimension from the center of the hole to the surface.
@@MRCNC1967 we also have custom made stuff at my workplace. we know what we have and we pay attention... cnc's don't make mistakes, machinists do ;-) but i get where you're coming from. the holder isn't standard anymore, so if someone weren't paying attention, there could be an issue.
Third generation machinist, and with such great skills. Your dad must be really proud of you for continuing the shop (don't know if he is still alive)
Must be a pleasure to be able to work with the tools your grandfather and father left you.
His dad is dead. :(
@@ensen89 such a shame, I know how that feels unfortunately. Well he would have been proud for sure.
While watching, it appears you took 25mm off the face. 20mm (off the main face) + another 5mm for the key.
Im confuse right now, customer wanted that "base" down to 80mm. You faced it down to 80mm and then you where happy.
BUT then, when u maked the keyway.. u took another depth at sides, now there no more 80mm base?
He said the actual finish height isn't too critical and was just to provide clearance so 75mm is just as good as 80mm.
i`m curious as to how Adam answers the questions on here ,, ( about the amount of material milled off ) i`m like most , i think it should all be 5mm higher , but i also have a comment about indicating the top of the tool , but not the side of the tool .. assuming it is parallel and in the center of the block ?? , , BTW i`ve been machining for 36 years , should have cut the key from the center of the tool , just my opinion , Adam does excellent work tho
Thank you Adam I always enjoy watching your videos I am from South Africa
Vijayant Govender also from South Africa
As usual very nice work I love the way you explain everything that you’re doing how precise all the measurements come out nice work.
Hopefully it's doesn't matter but you just dropped that face by 25mm instead of 20mm.
Yep, saw that. Should have milled 15mm or 20mm from top of key, then milled 5x25mm key.
was thinking the same thing, I read that as 20mm from the top of the key, which would have made the deck 85mm before cutting the keyway
Im scrolling thru the comments looking for confirmation that I'm not an idiot lol unless he messed up describing the callout thats a screw up right?
Adam, how lucky for you to have so many master machinists in the comment section eager to show you how things work, this peanut gallery is truly a blessing. Real talk, you have the patience of a saint my man.
Nothing to be sarcastic about, in the first video Adam explains what he going to do regarding height of the piece and in the second video he does something different and people on here are just wondering what happened. Perhaps you should grow up.
In the first video he measured 100mm not including key and said that face needed 20mm off. It looked like on the final job. He measured it to 80mm including the key, and then cut another 5mm , so 5mm to much, that's what a lot have noticed.
I agree, only Adam knows how it should have been made. He did say in the first part at around 2minutes in and im quoting him word by word now,
"The plan is to bring this down, we'll mill it down to 80 millimeters on the height, and then we will mill so it's got a 25 millimeter wide key way across there in the center"
Thanks Adam. Your careful work raises everyone's game by example.
That Sandvik T-Max is a monster. It just erases metal.
Me: That looks like a good shaper candidate.
Me also: Giant face mill hogging chips, ok that was awesome.
Did you just cut 5mm too much? Confused.
Adam , just wonder after the key way was milled, would the face drop a total 25mm? Great metal working!! thanks
Man I wish I could buy a K&T like that. What a horse of a machine!
Really liked these last two SNS's, seems like you've gotten back to the basics, no thrills just lathe and mill work, figured you'd whip out the shaper but guess we'll see more of that soon, thanks Adam for the entertainment and more importantly the ideas that we love building our own parts, machines and more!!!
Always enjoy watching.
Some of you guys see this as a possible 5mm to deep mistake. I see this as a possible upcoming video of completely remachining a brand new piece for Bill
I thought he said the 80mm wasn't critical, as long as he took at LEAST 20mm off it would work for Bill. Maybe I am wrong.
I do, the mounting surfaces went down 25mm, not 20 (edit: no, it is ok, 100mm included the keyway)
I correct myself: when he puts the block on the lathe the grab width is 3.750" which is 95mm, so 100mm is to the top of the keyway and it takes 20 of all surfaces
If you have gone 5mm too much then you are very brave to give the haters ammunition. Good luck Adam
not hating just observant - probably should have used the endmill to go down to the 20mm on each side, leaving the center and final key width and height for the end.
a not critical depth does not equate to being off by 5mm, it makes it look like sloppy work. if you listen to him talk in both parts " half a thou. off " is ok.
not the level of accuracy of typical ABOM workmanship, more like " close enough for government work "
@@ROTTK9 "Government work" in truth can mean accuracy in the "tenths," not ~5mm. I've worked with too many jobs for the Government where the prints called for dimensions in "tenths." However, based on Adam's description of the job in Part 1, I agree that he probably made a 5mm error. I'm hoping that since the 20mm dimension was just for clearance when the turret rotates, an extra 5mm won't make a difference. And, a CNC lathe probably won't care once you tell it where the cutter's edge/tip is.
Adam, I was screening at my screen when you made that last pass to 3.150 , shouldn’t it have been 5mm taller before you cut down for the key?
Exactly what I was thinking. 5mm too much has been taken off now?
Here's your answer: th-cam.com/video/1W8xUj2VeBg/w-d-xo.html =)
Zordax answer to what? He said it needed to be cut from 100mm to 80mm that didn’t include the 5mm key height. Then he took it down to 75mm
Am I incorrect in thinking that you fly-cut about 5mm too much material off the bottom of the holder, Adam?
That's what I was thinking. I thought it was 80mm plus a key sticking up another 5mm.
Loved you was doing stuff in mm. But didn't you cut it down to 80 mm before cutting the key.
I thought that lol
@@bagheadbaby He also said it's a non critical dimension and just for clearance.. an extra 5mm won't hurt.
@@Polar_Ted Lets hope not. When I hear Adam say, it's not critical, I'm thinking within a few thou, not within 5mm (200 thou).
@@jemijona For clearance, I would think the more the better...
Some real nice metal mowin' !
Love that small rpm heavy milling. Heaviest cut I've done was with 200mm mitsubishi ahm75 facemill on Skoda W160 hbm (50kW main motor) - 16mm axial depth and 120mm width.
Measure a dozen times, cut, then measure a dozen more. BRAVO
RapidRrobert Measure twice, cut once.
Old joke; "I cut that board three times and it's still too short"
Yeah. Something is off. Key way will be off center. Overall height will be low. According to the original explanation.
I second that.
I'm not sure about the off center. It might just be the camera.
It’s the camera,shadow and light making it look like that
I really enjoy shaper action, but that huge face mill was really cool too. I always enjoy an Abom video, great project to watch.
That shell mill is a beast!
The things Adam does with cast absolutely amazes me. Until I saw him working with cast in previous videos and this one, I had no idea it was so workable.
Shouldn't it have been 15 mm then mill 5 mm key?
My thoughts exactly. 20 from the top of the key then mill the key or 15 from the top of the main base.
46 "Okuma" employees stopped by to show upset that you are re-engineering their product instead of telling the customer to order a new one from them.