You really need to send a really small straight edge back to Lance, and explain you had to take more off than you thought. (Then send the real one a day later.)🤣🤣👍
Buy some coupling nuts and several lengths of bolts to fit them cause they make dandy little jacks. You can TIG SAE thick washers to the bottom for broader bases and add jam nuts for locking if you like.
I love the look of freshly machined cast iron. It has a color that really appeals to me. Love the channel too. Your dad and granddad would be proud to know you are carrying on so well in the 21st century.
I am glad you showed a portion of the cleaning - unless you have a mill, and use it, you can have no idea of the mess after a milling operation, and especially cast or ductile iron. Good Vid. Thanks
YES! I for one second the "Shop project" you mentioned! Some stubby Abom machinists jacks! Configure your design, sling some chips, heat treat, maybe some cold blue! Sounds like a fun sunday project and a cool video! Also, was awesome to see the 2-piece Carvers from the old videos at Motion! I remember those exact broach plugs from a certain video! lol Great set-up, and result, as always!
When you first talked about doing this project, I thought to myself, "Yes. We're gonna get some more shaper action." I have to admit I was disappointed that you didn't use the shaper. That shaper is just so damned fascinating to watch! Btw, you've got at least one, maybe two cutters on your cutting head that are cutting deeper than the rest. I could tell by listening, especially when you slowed down the frame rate.
I for sure ain't no kind of machinist but I've watched enough of your vids, TOT's, Quinn's, Tubalcain''s, even AvE's that I wondered why you didn't support that thing in the middle *before* you started that first full-length cut. You guys are great teachers!
Nice job. Thanks for another good one. I'd like to add that when long parts are machined on Bridgeport machines a slightly convex surface often results due to table drop. It's a common problem to be aware of, especially on worn machines with loose gibs.
Another great video Adam. thanks for sharing your passion with us. from someone who isn't a machinist or metalworker, i still always enjoy watching your videos.
Nice to see the mill get some love there :) i thought for SURE this would be a shaper project! That seems to be a really great piece of cast iron. Also nice to see the Sky Hook getting some use!
Watching you work is always a joy. At 35:00 you were cleaning (vacum), I wonder if you could make a video of shop work, the cleaning around a real job lime this, taking care of chips and all that. How you collect it and then dispose it. Thank you and take care.
It's so satisfying watchin ur chilled work. I work in an milling company producing stuff for the automotive industry. It's ridiculous how crazy stressed our machines are set up trying to reach accuracies under 5 micrometers just because of cost-effectiveness watchin you producing the parts givin them their accuracy xD
Is it just me or does anybody else think vacuuming a mill after your done is so satisfying. I used the brush attachment and always thought it was so satisfying.😂😂
I hate working in swarf, I clean while in process not wanting to wait at the end- it may be less productive, but psychologically I feel I do a better job.
At 21:31 you vindicated my thought that you should have a jack under the center of the beam, nice to know that I've actually learned something by watching your videos.
For short machinist Jacks I use a coupler nut with matching bolt. Get rid of any the forged markings on the top of the bolt head and round it slightly. Love the setup, beautiful clamping system.
Many don’t know it, but don’t use tapping fluid/cutting oil when manually tapping a hole in cast. Use air down the flutes to extract the crumbs (I won’t call it chips). Once you have established a good start, blow out every few turns to avoid too much build up of cuttings. Once to depth blow out and start to back out cautiously. If you encounter resistance stop, go in again and blow then try again. If the powder gets behind the cutting edge relief, it works like a wedge to wreck the threads, tap or break it off. Using cutting fluids makes a mud that’s even worse to get out. The best tap for manual tapping is a spiral point. Don’t use spiral flute as it can stretch the lead(pitch) as it pulls too quickly into the hole. Never use a roll form tap in cast materials or non ductile materials (strong but snaps or crumbles when bent) for example: cast aluminum, iron or 7075 aluminum.
In my internship, I was fly cutting an aluminum plate, it was hanging off the end of the vise several inches each side. Probably 4" width x 1/2" thick. The unsupported ends vibrated and thus the tool cut ripple marks in the part. I had to cut more off, only running the cutter over the vise, then shifting the part to cut the other side. The machinist jacks you used would have been the perfect solution.
I'm always anxious when I see work sticking out such a small amount above the vise jaws. I couldn't help imagining the tool crashing, it was quite nerve wracking.I really the admire the confidence you have in your setups.
Watching that big shell chew through that heavy cut, I'm thinking, "I love my Bridgeport, but it won't do that." Those K&Ts are beasts, for their size.
been a few months since I last watched you Adam. Your camera skills are getting top notch and your knowledge with cast and materials is becoming top notch. thank you bud. hang loose: peace n love
Oh, I love face mills and flycutters and stuff. They somehow have something elegant. Cast pieces are so nice to cut. No oil, no coolant. And no broken tools, if the casting is good and has no hard spots. Broke one or another in my apprenticeship.... Oh and nice plug on sky hook 😁👌 Nice video, as always.
Adam, something to consider is the stresses in that casting. if you do one on the mill again try roughing it all over then taking a light finish pass. You will still be dealing with deflection because of the higher tool pressure compared to the shaper but it should get you closer to true.Old time machine builders would rough machine their castings then let them "season" for a year or more outside to relieve the stresses after the skin was machined off, then finish machine them.
Heard those stories too, about “seasoning”. Some old guys told me that when they had to do precision tools ( like parallels or angle blocks ) they chose the oldest material they can get from the depot, the older the better, especially steel that has seen some cold winters and hot summers...
Yeah a lot of metals come stress out. Probably from their ole lady LOL, but no seriously. Pre heating to stress relieve works great. Cast does better than most considering the material your using. All I know is stainless is an acrobat after machining.
I had a mild steel prism milled recently and boy the guys had a lot of trouble getting it close to flat but after a few goes it was only 0.03mm bow in the middle, a lot easier than scraping 0.3mm!
Is the face that is at 45 deg. (29:00) couldn't you use a matched pair of V blocks instead of the parallels to set the angle in reference to the back and bottom faces?
The slow mo of the side milling was so cool, seeing each blade of the endmill take a shaving, really makes me appreciate the efficiency a milling machine
Here's a niy-picky refinement: One problem with a table vise is it turns your machine table into a structural part of the grip. Tighten the jaw and the clamping force against the work a few inches above the table surface tries to bow the span of table upwards a small amount. Therefore, heavy clamping forces are to be avoided on smaller mills like a turret mill. Adam's K&T mill table is maybe 3" wider and nearly an inch thicker thus abler to restrain heavier clamping forces without undue deflection. Whopper HBM tables are robust enough to restrain most anything. I have a lighter version table vise I used infrequently on my turret mill. It didn't take much grip on a 20" long part to bow the table up 0.001" in the center (I checked it once with an improvised bridge gage.) I wish I had better numbers but my check was years ago. The lesson is: if you use a table vise regularly, expect end bearing wear on the table ways on the saddle depending on table rigidity, length of the clamping span, and the vigor of the grip. As ever, YMMV and everything is made of rubber - even robustly designed milling machine tables.
Interesting to see that piece of stock bowing inside those clamps. Not entirely sure how rigid that piece of stock is, nor how much clamping pressure you are putting on those nuts but it sure is neat to see.
I really like your videos. Simple to the point and get it done. Some guys want to tell you about the machine, the tools, the set up, the math, the history about the part. And then repeat through out the video. Commonly they will run out of time so they will do a second video with a repeat of the same information.
i'm not a machinist but i'm in awe seeing metal cut metal (i'm sure its an everyday "run of the mill" thing for all you machinists out there ;) ) especially seeing the last few millimetres at the end being cut. As always Adam a nice informative video :)
You really need to send a really small straight edge back to Lance, and explain you had to take more off than you thought. (Then send the real one a day later.)🤣🤣👍
Buy some coupling nuts and several lengths of bolts to fit them cause they make dandy little jacks. You can TIG SAE thick washers to the bottom for broader bases and add jam nuts for locking if you like.
Love watching the show. Bringing back a lot of memories for an old school tool &die maker. Plus my years in the Air Force machine shops.
I love the look of freshly machined cast iron. It has a color that really appeals to me. Love the channel too. Your dad and granddad would be proud to know you are carrying on so well in the 21st century.
Talk about good video work. Gosh. The slo mo, sound and actually seeing the work. Top notch video. A+
I am glad you showed a portion of the cleaning - unless you have a mill, and use it, you can have no idea of the mess after a milling operation, and especially cast or ductile iron. Good Vid. Thanks
You have the only 40 minute videos on youtube that I will sit here and watch from start to finish...normally I'm a ten minute video guy. Good stuff
That carver vise is something else. Being able to fine-tune jaw lift sounds like a lovely feature to have
Great job Adam. Always love the process. Thanks for bringing us along
Man, I can feel the satisfaction and back sighing with relief when you used that skyhook!
Well done as always Adam, great video.
Great video. I always know your videos are filled with little pearls of techniques that make projects go smoothly. Thanks for them.
I liked the slow mo on the end mill, pretty cool. thanks Adam
Great video, the close-up and slow motion shots are awesome
I would have thought you would’ve used the shaper, but you know more about it than I do. Good job Adam!
That "even though not perfect" is a BEAUTIFUL PEICE!
YES! I for one second the "Shop project" you mentioned! Some stubby Abom machinists jacks! Configure your design, sling some chips, heat treat, maybe some cold blue! Sounds like a fun sunday project and a cool video!
Also, was awesome to see the 2-piece Carvers from the old videos at Motion! I remember those exact broach plugs from a certain video! lol
Great set-up, and result, as always!
@jacktheripped Clever thinkin man!
When you first talked about doing this project, I thought to myself, "Yes. We're gonna get some more shaper action." I have to admit I was disappointed that you didn't use the shaper. That shaper is just so damned fascinating to watch! Btw, you've got at least one, maybe two cutters on your cutting head that are cutting deeper than the rest. I could tell by listening, especially when you slowed down the frame rate.
Great video, Adam - thanks for the closeups and the slo-mo. Love the finish on cast iron.
Love the new camera work; and then he dropped the ABOM, with the slow-mo😁👍
Good job Adam, thanks for sharing with us, Fred.
that cutter has left a lovely surface finish
I for sure ain't no kind of machinist but I've watched enough of your vids, TOT's, Quinn's, Tubalcain''s, even AvE's that I wondered why you didn't support that thing in the middle *before* you started that first full-length cut. You guys are great teachers!
What a fantastic way to start my morning down under! Thanks Adam
hi I get this in the evening in the Netherlands 😉
That's a good job Adam thanks looks really smooth on too the next job the stoker engine box !!
Nice job. Thanks for another good one. I'd like to add that when long parts are machined on Bridgeport machines a slightly convex surface often results due to table drop. It's a common problem to be aware of, especially on worn machines with loose gibs.
Loved the slow motion when milling the ends of the prism 🙂👍
Another great video Adam. thanks for sharing your passion with us. from someone who isn't a machinist or metalworker, i still always enjoy watching your videos.
Nice to see the mill get some love there :) i thought for SURE this would be a shaper project! That seems to be a really great piece of cast iron. Also nice to see the Sky Hook getting some use!
Thanks for another great video. I really liked the closeup shots.
th-cam.com/video/QDsi8RwWwSo/w-d-xo.html
Watching you work is always a joy. At 35:00 you were cleaning (vacum), I wonder if you could make a video of shop work, the cleaning around a real job lime this, taking care of chips and all that. How you collect it and then dispose it. Thank you and take care.
Loved the slow motion of the end mill.
Ah, what memories! Thank you for reminding me of both the "fun" of milling and why I retired. :-)
Beautiful work as allways.
That wee crane at 07:30 is just utterly adorable!
I thought for sure you'd have that thing on the shaper : )
Love that Carver clamp set. What an awesome viewer gift. I'm gonna look them up. Finish on those faces is so fine, your fingerprints show up!
It's so satisfying watchin ur chilled work. I work in an milling company producing stuff for the automotive industry. It's ridiculous how crazy stressed our machines are set up trying to reach accuracies under 5 micrometers just because of cost-effectiveness watchin you producing the parts givin them their accuracy xD
The surface finish turned out great on that cast Adam
Is it just me or does anybody else think vacuuming a mill after your done is so satisfying. I used the brush attachment and always thought it was so satisfying.😂😂
I hate working in swarf, I clean while in process not wanting to wait at the end- it may be less productive, but psychologically I feel I do a better job.
Nice work using that rotary shaper. Thanks again for what you are doing. Sure is fun watching the machinist art being practiced by someone who cares.
Love to see your work as always Adam.
Enjoyable viewing, I have the same caver clamps for my big mill. Great bit of kit. 👍🏻
Slo-mo effect was interesting....Skyhook seems to work great for you. Hope you enjoyed Dunedin and St. Augustine. Pretty neat places,,,,
At 21:31 you vindicated my thought that you should have a jack under the center of the beam, nice to know that I've actually learned something by watching your videos.
Beautifully machined Abom! Great job! Thank you so much for sharing the video!
For short machinist Jacks I use a coupler nut with matching bolt. Get rid of any the forged markings on the top of the bolt head and round it slightly. Love the setup, beautiful clamping system.
Great tip. Thank you.
Super video. So interesting your commentary. Enjoy the camping trip
Another great piece of work. I like the way you describe your thinking on machining, helps others understand processes.
th-cam.com/video/QDsi8RwWwSo/w-d-xo.html
Many don’t know it, but don’t use tapping fluid/cutting oil when manually tapping a hole in cast. Use air down the flutes to extract the crumbs (I won’t call it chips). Once you have established a good start, blow out every few turns to avoid too much build up of cuttings. Once to depth blow out and start to back out cautiously. If you encounter resistance stop, go in again and blow then try again. If the powder gets behind the cutting edge relief, it works like a wedge to wreck the threads, tap or break it off. Using cutting fluids makes a mud that’s even worse to get out. The best tap for manual tapping is a spiral point. Don’t use spiral flute as it can stretch the lead(pitch) as it pulls too quickly into the hole. Never use a roll form tap in cast materials or non ductile materials (strong but snaps or crumbles when bent) for example: cast aluminum, iron or 7075 aluminum.
If you use cutting paste/fluid when tapping cast iron it will give you tight holes.
👌👌 great knowledgable video once again, been a machinist for 25 yrs but always something else to learn on the way 👌👍
With such beautiful machines,the job will be always perfectly done,congratulations,you are the best.thanks.
Not going to lie... I wasn't going to watch this one. But I'm glad I did. Very satisfying to watch.
Watching your work is very very helpful man just keep up the good work I've learned a bunch
nice video again! I love the slow-mo shots and the sounds, very ZEN! it is very nice to see how the tool eats the metal!
In my internship, I was fly cutting an aluminum plate, it was hanging off the end of the vise several inches each side. Probably 4" width x 1/2" thick. The unsupported ends vibrated and thus the tool cut ripple marks in the part. I had to cut more off, only running the cutter over the vise, then shifting the part to cut the other side. The machinist jacks you used would have been the perfect solution.
Thank you ABOM ! I can smell the hot machine oil and the craftsmanship,,, you
are more influential than you know .
I'm always anxious when I see work sticking out such a small amount above the vise jaws. I couldn't help imagining the tool crashing, it was quite nerve wracking.I really the admire the confidence you have in your setups.
Watching that big shell chew through that heavy cut, I'm thinking, "I love my Bridgeport, but it won't do that." Those K&Ts are beasts, for their size.
been a few months since I last watched you Adam. Your camera skills are getting top notch and your knowledge with cast and materials is becoming
top notch. thank you bud. hang loose: peace n love
Oh, I love face mills and flycutters and stuff. They somehow have something elegant. Cast pieces are so nice to cut. No oil, no coolant. And no broken tools, if the casting is good and has no hard spots. Broke one or another in my apprenticeship.... Oh and nice plug on sky hook 😁👌
Nice video, as always.
You only get one back. Once you mess it up it’s never the same. Great idea showing the crane and cart.
Fascinating!
Thanks for all the great videos.
Thanks for the big gauge again, really is easier to see!
Adam, something to consider is the stresses in that casting. if you do one on the mill again try roughing it all over then taking a light finish pass. You will still be dealing with deflection because of the higher tool pressure compared to the shaper but it should get you closer to true.Old time machine builders would rough machine their castings then let them "season" for a year or more outside to relieve the stresses after the skin was machined off, then finish machine them.
Heard those stories too, about “seasoning”. Some old guys told me that when they had to do precision tools ( like parallels or angle blocks ) they chose the oldest material they can get from the depot, the older the better, especially steel that has seen some cold winters and hot summers...
In the modern era, if you want to stress-relieve a casting, you cycle it in a heat treat oven. The required cycles have been well studied.
Yeah a lot of metals come stress out. Probably from their ole lady LOL, but no seriously. Pre heating to stress relieve works great. Cast does better than most considering the material your using. All I know is stainless is an acrobat after machining.
That opening theme always makes me think of "Helplessly Hoping" by Crosby, Stills and Nash.
It was flashing in your hand. Lol great job 👍
The shell mill is mesmerizing but it does not compete with the shaper. Love you thanks for the great videos
You know you're good when you machine tools for machining machine tools
Love the slow motion end mill action!
Hey Adam did a great job on that bar.
Damn! Thats beautiful. Id love to see it in action!
Noticed that you're doing more machining. Thanks, Adam!
And with some spiffy slo-mo bonus footage.
I had a mild steel prism milled recently and boy the guys had a lot of trouble getting it close to flat but after a few goes it was only 0.03mm bow in the middle, a lot easier than scraping 0.3mm!
You are one of the best ,thank you for videos
Thank you Adam I always enjoy watching your videos I am from South Africa
NIce job but you didn't hear me say set it in a couple of matching v blocks! lol
That was one hell of a gift Adam!! They go for over $1,000.00 on eBay!!! Very cool video!!!
Is the face that is at 45 deg. (29:00) couldn't you use a matched pair of V blocks instead of the parallels to set the angle in reference to the back and bottom faces?
The sound of shell milling is close to the sound of a purring V10.
Those straight chips off the end mill just make me happy, no idea why.
The slow mo of the side milling was so cool, seeing each blade of the endmill take a shaving, really makes me appreciate the efficiency a milling machine
I love these videos. The mill is mesmerizing.
Am I the only one that says "Clarence" every time Adam says "Clearance"? LOL...One of the greatest movies of all time.
Them endmill slomo's were awesome!
Here's a niy-picky refinement:
One problem with a table vise is it turns your machine table into a structural part of the grip. Tighten the jaw and the clamping force against the work a few inches above the table surface tries to bow the span of table upwards a small amount. Therefore, heavy clamping forces are to be avoided on smaller mills like a turret mill. Adam's K&T mill table is maybe 3" wider and nearly an inch thicker thus abler to restrain heavier clamping forces without undue deflection. Whopper HBM tables are robust enough to restrain most anything.
I have a lighter version table vise I used infrequently on my turret mill. It didn't take much grip on a 20" long part to bow the table up 0.001" in the center (I checked it once with an improvised bridge gage.) I wish I had better numbers but my check was years ago.
The lesson is: if you use a table vise regularly, expect end bearing wear on the table ways on the saddle depending on table rigidity, length of the clamping span, and the vigor of the grip.
As ever, YMMV and everything is made of rubber - even robustly designed milling machine tables.
Thanks Buddy, as always your work is beyond exceptional...
Just so you know - I bought a pair of Noga Indicator holders because of you this week! They work some good! Thanks!
So cool watching those chips come off in slow-mo.
Nice job on that straight edge! That machinist vice project sounds like a lot of fun, hope you can get around to it!
Interesting to see that piece of stock bowing inside those clamps. Not entirely sure how rigid that piece of stock is, nor how much clamping pressure you are putting on those nuts but it sure is neat to see.
I really like your videos. Simple to the point and get it done. Some guys want to tell you about the machine, the tools, the set up, the math, the history about the part. And then repeat through out the video. Commonly they will run out of time so they will do a second video with a repeat of the same information.
Another great video and lesson Adam, Thanks.
At the end you mentioned that using the shaper results in a more true piece, on the order of 1/1000 vs the mill. Could you tell us more about that.
Seems that the greatest challenge is holding on to the part.
Adam, Nice job on prism great content & enjoyed watching your video & thanks for sharing your video.!.!.!.
Thanks Super good...An the best part is it....Not a two part job video....Slow motion is really good....Thanks again...!
Nice!! Great to see some mill work....:-) Slow-mo was great... :-)
i'm not a machinist but i'm in awe seeing metal cut metal (i'm sure its an everyday "run of the mill" thing for all you machinists out there ;) ) especially seeing the last few millimetres at the end being cut. As always Adam a nice informative video :)
Great idea to see slow motion. It help much better to understand how it works. Thank you.
Great job on stoping the harmonics in the metal.