Being 73 I guess now I’m old school. My grandfather (more older school ) showed me to put some baking soda and water in a cup making a soupy solution. Then either submersing the cable end or pour it over the corrosion. It dissolves the green corrosion away. Then a little wire brush work and you are ready to either put it back together or replace parts as needed.
We use the ford end that are available. Then crimp on eyelet on the battery cable. Quick tip to open the crimped end, use a cutoff wheel to score the crimp, and bend it back. Works a hell of alot better than trying to pry open the crimp.
My dealer just wanted to charge me over 900 bucks for the cable assembly because they just can't "replace the ends" This will save me so much money. Thank you!
Did you see all the green coating those strands where that end is removed??? that end is just going to be a totally corroded mess in a couple more months… you need to do a little acid wash there then baking soda neutralize… then you really want to use some dielectric grease and a crimped eye or something… simply squishing that bundle of wire into that clamp is a weak connection for your current flow… that’s a freaking ugly looking connection with that end and the existing corrosion is going to be ugly pretty quickly… if you can’t do it top notch at least poor some Coke or vinegar on your wire and brush it around then soda wash it then you’ll get some decent contact through your strands???
@the7.3powerstrokeguy98 Two bolt squish clamp. Get some good clean wire, put a terminal on it and then bolt that to the new post clamp( that is actually good).
Excellent video as always good sir. I had to do this February of 21 to my passenger side positive cable end. I wanted my local Ford dealer to do this for me but either they didn’t understand what I was asking for or they didn’t want to do what you just did because they were adamant they needed to replace the WHOLE battery harness assembly.. which would have cost me $1,500… I ordered the $30 part at the dealership, went home and spent about 3 hours(I’m not very experienced) in my garage with a dremmel tool, wire cutters, and heat shrink and I got it fixed.
Nice work Arod! When drilling out holes I prefer to use a long uni bit. I think it’s safer to work with and less likely to bite and spin the cable and off on you. I would definitely use that aftermarket instead of buying a whole new cable.Especially if the other end was good.
Like the video as always bud! Little tip if you wanna use it… I use a seam ripper from a sewing kit to cut the heat shrink. They are like 4-5 bucks and work great! Just figured I’d throw something from one mechanic to another 👌🏼👌🏼
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod i normally roll through on them! Enjoy listening to you guys chat it up! Turning wrenches on Military trucks is a little different but I’ll be in the chat on the next live brother!
My thumbs have arthritis in them so I had to get my small die grinder to cut the case on the battery cable So I could pry it off. Thanks for showing me how to repair that *’n cable. It saved me time and money by doing it myself. 2009 Ford F-150
You asked what I think...Fail ! You didn't clean and protect any of the connections at all. The strap on those two bolt cable connectors always fatigues and result in a high resistance connection. A dealership should possess an appropriate cable crimping tool for battery cables.
When I cut mine off I left the crimp part and just cut it straight across the metal after the crimp. So the crimped part went inside the saddle strap. The AGM's are the way to go. More reserve time for those extra accessories.
since I am not a fan of the terminals that have the bolt/clamp setup to hold the bare wire, an option is to crimp on an eyelet to the cable and bolt that to the terminal
Just replaced my factory batteries with odyssey batteries. Cleaned my battery cables because they were horrible from the factory batteries leaking. But will be adding these.
Nice job. If you have the time next repair. After cutting off the Ford OE corroded terminal end use a crimper ( Harbor Freight ) and crimp on a new 5/16 terminal end. A 5/16 brass or plated terminal. This can then bolt to that Dorman universal 3 o'clock positioned terminal Or if no crimp tool then leave on the original Ford cable crimp. ( if non corroded ) Then just cut off the bad corroded terminal. Then the old crimp will fit into the battery terminal strand end where you had bare twisted wire. Much stronger and the stranded cable is secure.
A couple months ago I replaced the driver side terminal on my 6.7, with the same one. Just looked at it yesterday and there was not corrosion on it, like the stick one always had.
I always like to put dielectric grease on battery terminals because of this, and every 2 oil changes I clean it and put new grease. Never had a starting issue and obviously no corrosion issue.
Kevin, I use dielectric grease on lots of stuff but for battery terminals lithium or any axle grease works. Even Vasoline. I lather it on the post and clamp then put the clamp on the post and lather more on. As long as the air cannot get to the metal there will be corrosion.
You could have taken time to cleans those contacts of battery corroison and also instead of just connecting the wire strands directly,a cable lug could have made the connection fantastic.
I have found that if you put some kind of silicon or caulk around the battery post even when brand new it really helps with stopping future leaks leading to corrosion.
Nice I’ll have to use that, we just make it work normally with what we have in the shop bin of battery terminals also have you ever used boiling water to clean the corrosion off the battery ends??
Had that happen to the negative side then it went up the wire under the rubber that surrounds the wire on the driver's side battery looking to find a new one any words of wisdom ARod thanks good video
My 6.0s is that way Ima Have to replace them with this as their oem product is out of stock arnd my area plus its crazy expensive this is a logical fix
I get similar clamps like that from Amazon except I don't use a strap clamp over the main wire. I have eyelets and hydraulic crimper. Those strap clamps never seem to last and either corrode, come loose, or retaining bolts fail. But if you don't have a crimper and eyelets that one is an alternative.
Nice. Luckily mine were that shot but I sprayed some cleaner on everything. Just had factory Motorcraft batteries go bad on the 2016 F250 XLT 6.7L and swapped with new ones. Luckily was a pretty easy job.
Battery cables should be a part of your regular maintenance. It doesn’t hurt to take a look when you check your oil no excuse for them getting that bad
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod 9,000 miles on my ‘22 350 and the dealer sprayed anti corrosion on the terminals and stated they were ok. Obvious corrosion on the hold down brackets. They cleaned the top of the battery off and the truck sat for a week for a separate issue. As it sat at the dealer it corroded more after they cleaned it. No resolution with the dealer or ford 1-800 warranty. Furious to say the least. My ‘17 was the same.
I just bought a marine terminal with a post bolt. I cut off the corroded terminal and drilled a hole in the remaining part of the original cable end/terminal. Bolted it all up and voila... i had a better idea than Ford... late on a Sunday night.
Ive had them both replaced still have to wipe them off monthly. Gonna buy a couple odesseys and move the motorcrap into farm equipment where they belong
2 ปีที่แล้ว +1
It look to be a problem whit GREEN FUR on battery conecctor
A poor seal on the terminal too. I had a Ford service manual from the early 90s for my Thunderbird and it said to use BACKUP wrenches on battery terminals. Crank it too much, you deform the housing.
I’ve noticed on forums that this is a problem and some were rotted worse than the one you worked on. But do you recommend or use the spray anti corrosion to slow or stop the corrosion? If so probably should be done from a brand new vehicle.
Honest question (cuz I don't know). Could you not have just used a dremmel to saw that old post fitting off at the factory crimp...leaving the factory crimp on the stranded cable. Then sandwich the crimp with the two bolt plate? Or, is it better to have the bare stranded cable in the sandwich? Seems like a few strands were sacrificed in the removal of that crimp.
Funny that I'm watching this video tonight!!! Currently, I have a 2017 F-250 6.7 with relatively low mileage that came in on the hook for a no start. Turns out, the main positive cable connection to the starter rotted completely off. Of course, the causal part failure just has to be covered under warranty for this truck. Any guesses as to what I'm replacing?!!! Being in Michigan, I'm sure you can relate very well to my dilemma with this particular truck where every single connector and fastener is completely rusted and seized.🤬🤬🤬 On a different note, I'm not a very big fan of Dorman parts, but I have to admit, that cable end is very slick, not to mention very close to factory looking when the repair is done. Unfortunately in my case, it's not going to help me, as you are probably aware.🤬🤬🤬
Question, I’m getting no power to my front left battery (no return from the alternator) on a 6.0. Wouldn’t I need to replace my negative cable? Or do what’s in this video? I replaced alternator, belt, tensioner, batteries. Any help would be appreciated. Battery will start at 12.78, then drop ro 11.79 as soon as I start and obviously not charge.
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod I cleaned all battery clamps today. Didn’t do the trick. Going to continue to troubleshoot, I’m new to diesel and trying to learn as I go. I appreciate your feedback.
Hello I have a question for you I did my battery the same way you did here is my question I have a 2018 F450 Ford 6.7 diesel it keeps on regenerating every other day it has 36000 miles on it I took it on 95 and I ran it I came back to the house the next day it started regenerating again it's been doing it every 75 miles I took it to the dealer he said the filters are clean is there an additive I can add can you help me out in this one please
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod I want to thank you very much this is been puzzling me I really enjoy watching you on TH-cam I think you're a very smart and talented young man you ought to be running Ford Motor Corporation it takes a lot of time and effort on what you're doing and I just want you to know from my heart I appreciate what you're doing and I'll always be a subscriber if you ever come to Florida please hit me up
Motorcraft batteries leak. The only way your terminals will turn to crap is if the seal around the post is no good. Deka batteries don't leak. You won't need to put any magic grease over the terminals because no acid will touch the terminals. I've got a fleet of 20 trucks, 7 of them Ford, and I've tested this theory for 20 years. HTH, YMMV.
I hate aftermarket cable and replacements like that. They seem to always loosen up for the clamp onto the cable, and cause corrosion there first before anywhere else.
Arod did you ever get a chance to see how much water is supposed to be coming into the superduty moon roof? The water comes in and down the troughs and then down a drip tube on both sides at the front of the moonroof and then routes down the “A pillars” and then down to the bottom of the truck and to the ground. I can spray a water hose on the shower setting and see a steady stream of water on both sides of my moonroof draining down to the drain tubes obviously with the moonroof closed and sealed. Also I just had a tract replaced in it but it’s allowing as much water as before. I didn’t think there should be that much water. Is that normal? It’s not getting on anything inside the truck, it just seems kinda like Ford wouldn’t design it to allow a shit ton of water to flow through it or maybe they did that to constantly flush the drip tubes throughout the year?
I would never do what you did with the positive cable terminal. I would have put a new terminal end as opposed to crimping the terminal wire. It costs about $2.00 for a terminal end (with heatshrink) and less than five minutes of labor to put on a new terminal end. While what you did wasn't wrong, I prefer a cleaner and better look to my terminal ends.
Yep you wasted money just soak it in vinegar wire brush stubborn oxidation resoak again then Rinse in water. Coat with dielectric grease reinstall. $0. Nope did not see the missing bottom portion of the terminal. It needed replacement no way around that. Sorry my mistake and great repair. It's what I get for shooting my thumbs off dang it.
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod yeah think I never had to replace a battery connector or cable in fifty years. So yeah yes! But stupid is as stupid does! To each his own.
I don't like these just because they have such a large arm that's positively charged and any ground it's a nice spark and prayers you don't roast a computer
![[UNCUT] The Loyal Pin ปิ่นภักดิ์ EP.4 (4/4)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/d3l5rxl5CVo/mqdefault.jpg)
Being 73 I guess now I’m old school. My grandfather (more older school ) showed me to put some baking soda and water in a cup making a soupy solution. Then either submersing the cable end or pour it over the corrosion. It dissolves the green corrosion away. Then a little wire brush work and you are ready to either put it back together or replace parts as needed.
My dad taught me that years ago... use it to this day to clean up corrosion
We use the ford end that are available. Then crimp on eyelet on the battery cable. Quick tip to open the crimped end, use a cutoff wheel to score the crimp, and bend it back. Works a hell of alot better than trying to pry open the crimp.
I walked into the dealer today for that exact positive post end, not available right now. So this is good news to see.
My dealer just wanted to charge me over 900 bucks for the cable assembly because they just can't "replace the ends" This will save me so much money. Thank you!
Wow!
That clamp on the main.. Will fail. They are garbage. If that end was good on the cable. Leave the crimp. Drill a hole and make your own eye terminal.
I was just thinking that! Can’t find a clamp anywhere in town
What clamp?
Did you see all the green coating those strands where that end is removed??? that end is just going to be a totally corroded mess in a couple more months… you need to do a little acid wash there then baking soda neutralize… then you really want to use some dielectric grease and a crimped eye or something… simply squishing that bundle of wire into that clamp is a weak connection for your current flow… that’s a freaking ugly looking connection with that end and the existing corrosion is going to be ugly pretty quickly… if you can’t do it top notch at least poor some Coke or vinegar on your wire and brush it around then soda wash it then you’ll get some decent contact through your strands???
@the7.3powerstrokeguy98
Two bolt squish clamp. Get some good clean wire, put a terminal on it and then bolt that to the new post clamp( that is actually good).
I was surprised Motorcraft doesn’t make that part. Wow! Great job brother. 👊🏼✋🏼
Thax pal
i personally suggest using a lug end instead of bare wire into that clamp style connection, better longer term in my experience
Excellent video as always good sir. I had to do this February of 21 to my passenger side positive cable end. I wanted my local Ford dealer to do this for me but either they didn’t understand what I was asking for or they didn’t want to do what you just did because they were adamant they needed to replace the WHOLE battery harness assembly.. which would have cost me $1,500… I ordered the $30 part at the dealership, went home and spent about 3 hours(I’m not very experienced) in my garage with a dremmel tool, wire cutters, and heat shrink and I got it fixed.
Whata buncha crazies
Nice work Arod! When drilling out holes I prefer to use a long uni bit. I think it’s safer to work with and less likely to bite and spin the cable and off on you. I would definitely use that aftermarket instead of buying a whole new cable.Especially if the other end was good.
Like the video as always bud! Little tip if you wanna use it… I use a seam ripper from a sewing kit to cut the heat shrink. They are like 4-5 bucks and work great! Just figured I’d throw something from one mechanic to another 👌🏼👌🏼
Gots one but i leave her fer the dainty delicate jobs 🙋♂️🙋♂️, ppreciate chu..got come thru the LIVE stream sometime
Fair enough! Haha never can get one past you 😂😂
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod i normally roll through on them! Enjoy listening to you guys chat it up! Turning wrenches on Military trucks is a little different but I’ll be in the chat on the next live brother!
My thumbs have arthritis in them so I had to get my small die grinder to cut the case on the battery cable So I could pry it off. Thanks for showing me how to repair that *’n cable. It saved me time and money by doing it myself. 2009 Ford F-150
Thanks for keepin it 💯
You asked what I think...Fail !
You didn't clean and protect any of the connections at all.
The strap on those two bolt cable connectors always fatigues and result in a high resistance connection.
A dealership should possess an appropriate cable crimping tool for battery cables.
I've been lucky so far...check cables from time to time & clean off when needed...never needed a new cable or connector.🙏🙏
When I cut mine off I left the crimp part and just cut it straight across the metal after the crimp. So the crimped part went inside the saddle strap. The AGM's are the way to go. More reserve time for those extra accessories.
Loved this. I will be doing the same on my 6.7L. Please provide links to parts in upcoming videos.
since I am not a fan of the terminals that have the bolt/clamp setup to hold the bare wire, an option is to crimp on an eyelet to the cable and bolt that to the terminal
That's how I like to do it.
Workmanship always on point
Just replaced my factory batteries with odyssey batteries. Cleaned my battery cables because they were horrible from the factory batteries leaking. But will be adding these.
Nice job. If you have the time next repair. After cutting off the Ford OE corroded terminal end use a crimper ( Harbor Freight ) and crimp on a new 5/16 terminal end. A 5/16 brass or plated terminal. This can then bolt to that Dorman universal 3 o'clock positioned terminal Or if no crimp tool then leave on the original Ford cable crimp. ( if non corroded ) Then just cut off the bad corroded terminal. Then the old crimp will fit into the battery terminal strand end where you had bare twisted wire. Much stronger and the stranded cable is secure.
Good solution from dorman
Looks really good Arod! Nice and cleeaann 💪🏼👏🏻
A couple months ago I replaced the driver side terminal on my 6.7, with the same one. Just looked at it yesterday and there was not corrosion on it, like the stick one always had.
I always like to put dielectric grease on battery terminals because of this, and every 2 oil changes I clean it and put new grease. Never had a starting issue and obviously no corrosion issue.
Kevin, I use dielectric grease on lots of stuff but for battery terminals lithium or any axle grease works. Even Vasoline. I lather it on the post and clamp then put the clamp on the post and lather more on. As long as the air cannot get to the metal there will be corrosion.
You could have taken time to cleans those contacts of battery corroison and also instead of just connecting the wire strands directly,a cable lug could have made the connection fantastic.
Dorman - now to see how long it lasts... 😀 ... tks ARod
That Intro track SLAPS Bro.
Oh there he is.....
So weird i was thinking about this subect a week ago. Thanks as i had no idea that part was available.
I have found that if you put some kind of silicon or caulk around the battery post even when brand new it really helps with stopping future leaks leading to corrosion.
I use high temp black spray paint. Been working great for 20 yrs
the same issue happens to mustangs 2015 will try this part so thanks for the part number
Nice I’ll have to use that, we just make it work normally with what we have in the shop bin of battery terminals also have you ever used boiling water to clean the corrosion off the battery ends??
Ford wanted me to buy a new harness for my 6.7 but I got a new terminal on Amazon and did a similar instal
Good Stuff,Great Tips😄👍🏿2016 F250
Had that happen to the negative side then it went up the wire under the rubber that surrounds the wire on the driver's side battery looking to find a new one any words of wisdom ARod thanks good video
My 6.0s is that way Ima Have to replace them with this as their oem product is out of stock arnd my area plus its crazy expensive this is a logical fix
Nope not yet. I keep my cable clean and protected. But I heard that the OEM cables are hard to come by.
i just wanted to recommend drill hog drill bits, either hi-molybdenum m7 or cobalt m42
I get similar clamps like that from Amazon except I don't use a strap clamp over the main wire. I have eyelets and hydraulic crimper. Those strap clamps never seem to last and either corrode, come loose, or retaining bolts fail. But if you don't have a crimper and eyelets that one is an alternative.
Nice. Luckily mine were that shot but I sprayed some cleaner on everything. Just had factory Motorcraft batteries go bad on the 2016 F250 XLT 6.7L and swapped with new ones. Luckily was a pretty easy job.
Great video. Thanks
Battery cables should be a part of your regular maintenance. It doesn’t hurt to take a look when you check your oil no excuse for them getting that bad
Replace em
Ford batteries in the SD should be sealed AGM. This would never happen. All too common.
They are now...
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod 9,000 miles on my ‘22 350 and the dealer sprayed anti corrosion on the terminals and stated they were ok. Obvious corrosion on the hold down brackets. They cleaned the top of the battery off and the truck sat for a week for a separate issue. As it sat at the dealer it corroded more after they cleaned it. No resolution with the dealer or ford 1-800 warranty. Furious to say the least. My ‘17 was the same.
Why wouldn't they have just replaced the leaking batteries
hot water will clean the corrosion off or vinegar
Great video! Would this fit in a 06 F350 6.0?
Its for any positive battery cable end
Thank you!
Looking forward to the million mile king ranch video
Nice job. Just replaced mine with heavy duty copper terminals from Amazon for about $15.
need to solder an end on the big cable my buddy. use a solder pellet.
I was holding my breath, when you was drilling towards that radiator, but nice job.
Optical illusion
When Arod cuts to the music you know he is cussing…lol
Lololol
I think I’d buy the cable.
Good luck
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod no doubt you made a nice repair! Thanks for the video!
I just bought a marine terminal with a post bolt. I cut off the corroded terminal and drilled a hole in the remaining part of the original cable end/terminal. Bolted it all up and voila... i had a better idea than Ford... late on a Sunday night.
The motocraft batteries leak acid like crazy. Had problems on all of them.
Ive had them both replaced still have to wipe them off monthly. Gonna buy a couple odesseys and move the motorcrap into farm equipment where they belong
It look to be a problem whit GREEN FUR on battery conecctor
ARod, I have several fleet trucks that all have this.... is there a ground issue on these trucks that causes the excessive corrosion ?
Batteries leakin
A poor seal on the terminal too. I had a Ford service manual from the early 90s for my Thunderbird and it said to use BACKUP wrenches on battery terminals. Crank it too much, you deform the housing.
I’ve noticed on forums that this is a problem and some were rotted worse than the one you worked on. But do you recommend or use the spray anti corrosion to slow or stop the corrosion? If so probably should be done from a brand new vehicle.
Honest question (cuz I don't know). Could you not have just used a dremmel to saw that old post fitting off at the factory crimp...leaving the factory crimp on the stranded cable. Then sandwich the crimp with the two bolt plate? Or, is it better to have the bare stranded cable in the sandwich? Seems like a few strands were sacrificed in the removal of that crimp.
Wish i wlda had a dremel
Funny that I'm watching this video tonight!!! Currently, I have a 2017 F-250 6.7 with relatively low mileage that came in on the hook for a no start. Turns out, the main positive cable connection to the starter rotted completely off. Of course, the causal part failure just has to be covered under warranty for this truck. Any guesses as to what I'm replacing?!!! Being in Michigan, I'm sure you can relate very well to my dilemma with this particular truck where every single connector and fastener is completely rusted and seized.🤬🤬🤬
On a different note, I'm not a very big fan of Dorman parts, but I have to admit, that cable end is very slick, not to mention very close to factory looking when the repair is done. Unfortunately in my case, it's not going to help me, as you are probably aware.🤬🤬🤬
Aweeeeeee yepp i feel ya
Diaelectric grease will help
Question, I’m getting no power to my front left battery (no return from the alternator) on a 6.0. Wouldn’t I need to replace my negative cable? Or do what’s in this video? I replaced alternator, belt, tensioner, batteries. Any help would be appreciated. Battery will start at 12.78, then drop ro 11.79 as soon as I start and obviously not charge.
sounds like a cable issue to me not sending power....
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod I cleaned all battery clamps today. Didn’t do the trick. Going to continue to troubleshoot, I’m new to diesel and trying to learn as I go. I appreciate your feedback.
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod circling back. Replaced both positive cables and THE BATTERY IS CHARGING. After 3 months of troubleshooting. Thank you.
Wondering, what brand are those swiveling impact sockets? Thanks!
Cornwell
Hello I have a question for you I did my battery the same way you did here is my question I have a 2018 F450 Ford 6.7 diesel it keeps on regenerating every other day it has 36000 miles on it I took it on 95 and I ran it I came back to the house the next day it started regenerating again it's been doing it every 75 miles I took it to the dealer he said the filters are clean is there an additive I can add can you help me out in this one please
I wld do a forced manual regen then maybe a dpf parameter reset
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod I want to thank you very much this is been puzzling me I really enjoy watching you on TH-cam I think you're a very smart and talented young man you ought to be running Ford Motor Corporation it takes a lot of time and effort on what you're doing and I just want you to know from my heart I appreciate what you're doing and I'll always be a subscriber if you ever come to Florida please hit me up
💯🫂🔥🤝✌🤙🙏
You can’t buy just the cable, you have to buy harness,very pricy. I replaced with odyssey agm after 9 yrs, corrosion is part of wet cell battery
Si
Motorcraft batteries leak. The only way your terminals will turn to crap is if the seal around the post is no good. Deka batteries don't leak. You won't need to put any magic grease over the terminals because no acid will touch the terminals. I've got a fleet of 20 trucks, 7 of them Ford, and I've tested this theory for 20 years. HTH, YMMV.
Is the factory cable 2ga? I'm looking to install terminals like these because of the 90* main cable angle
I believe so
I hate aftermarket cable and replacements like that. They seem to always loosen up for the clamp onto the cable, and cause corrosion there first before anywhere else.
A little bit of PM and you won't have this problem??????
Arod did you ever get a chance to see how much water is supposed to be coming into the superduty moon roof?
The water comes in and down the troughs and then down a drip tube on both sides at the front of the moonroof and then routes down the “A pillars” and then down to the bottom of the truck and to the ground.
I can spray a water hose on the shower setting and see a steady stream of water on both sides of my moonroof draining down to the drain tubes obviously with the moonroof closed and sealed. Also I just had a tract replaced in it but it’s allowing as much water as before.
I didn’t think there should be that much water. Is that normal?
It’s not getting on anything inside the truck, it just seems kinda like Ford wouldn’t design it to allow a shit ton of water to flow through it or maybe they did that to constantly flush the drip tubes throughout the year?
I have not but i know there is supposed to be water passing thru normally.
Smexy
🙊🙊🙊🙊
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod that monkey business
I would never do what you did with the positive cable terminal. I would have put a new terminal end as opposed to crimping the terminal wire. It costs about $2.00 for a terminal end (with heatshrink) and less than five minutes of labor to put on a new terminal end. While what you did wasn't wrong, I prefer a cleaner and better look to my terminal ends.
...ok...
Where did u order that part from? No auto parts have it near me.
It looks alot the same as the one in my 2011 Ford Fusion Sport
Its a dorman
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod thanks for speedy reply
👍
You should have peeled back the plastic from the cable ends and checked all the cables for corrosion
I wld have saw green
Would this work on an 6.0
Any battery cable broski
Where can I get those terminals
Really
She a furry one, just getting ready for winter lol.
Daddy
Where can I buy it ??
Dorman
Yep you wasted money just soak it in vinegar wire brush stubborn oxidation resoak again then Rinse in water. Coat with dielectric grease reinstall. $0. Nope did not see the missing bottom portion of the terminal. It needed replacement no way around that. Sorry my mistake and great repair. It's what I get for shooting my thumbs off dang it.
Yea no..
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod yeah think I never had to replace a battery connector or cable in fifty years. So yeah yes! But stupid is as stupid does! To each his own.
Obviously u didnt see that half the end was missing....thus the replacement....cleaning it wldnt have done diddly
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod I'll rewatch just so you know I'm a certified ASE master mechanic.
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod oops my bad I'm sorry missed that part. And why the owners need to inspect those terminal connections at every oil change.
I don't like these just because they have such a large arm that's positively charged and any ground it's a nice spark and prayers you don't roast a computer