Can I wire a double gain outlet from one 240 circuit but use two 240 outlets next to each other and just run a pigtail to the next outlet without having to use wirenut just hot to next outlet it has two sides on each screw?
Dan - I enjoy your videos and always learn something valuable. Thanks for a great channel and awesome content. Kudos for sharing mistakes. Huge respect for you not only sharing success but also mistakes. There are alway a lot of balls in the air when working and trying to capture video content. Have a Happy Thanksgiving!
Thank you very much it really helped answer my question. I didn’t want to run a whole new wire for my stove, I can pigtail from my dryer which is accessible.
This is not only not code but not feasible. If you run your dryer and stove at the same time, you will blow the circuit. Remember that the most inefficient way that you can use electricity is to turn it to heat.
Cool video, all I need to do is move an existing 220/240 where the dryer used to be, to the other side of my garage for my welder and compressor...I should be able to piggyback off that one, wire over my garage ceiling trusses and down into the existing 110 receptacle and make it a 220...that looks like it's mounted on sheet rock...can the neutral from the dryer be enough for the mounting on the other side?
I'm sure that you have all solved the issues by now and probably learned alot. I'm not going repeat comments that I viewed from others, but rather add suggestions that I didn't see mentioned. Those blue boxes are ENT boxes for ENT tubing, not for sheathed cables. 4x4 metal boxes with industrial covers are better for your application as the plastic one's are too flimsy. Metal boxes are not that bad to work with and are more robust. I would have mounted them externally to the wall using emt conduit. It's also much easier to move or make changes down the road rather than tearing into the wall.
Essentially can have multiple outlets running from one breaker fuse. I'm assuming the 3 220v 50 amp outlets can't be used at the same time or the breaker will kick off?
Make It Go yes it would trip if touring multiple thing, this is only a solution for not having to unplug thing just to plug so thing else in. In my shop I’m the only one using tools so there is never a time that two tools are turned in at the same time
So 10AWG for 50 A isn't good ? What about 100 amp breaker using 10AWG for use with air compressor and welder both being 220 on the same circuit connecting everything in a junction box ?
Always take your time remember no job is a rush. If you're running a 220 volt circuit always keep it on a dedicated breaker. It is best to have too much than not enough. I can tell this is the first time you must have done something like this but keep up the work you get better at it. One thing I noticed but I could be wrong is that the person who ran those wires was a right-handed person, you're a left-handed person that's why you did not see the wires there.
Hi Daniel I don't want to pile on here , but my advice is to either correct the info your documenting ,or take them down .(I watched 2 of your videos and noted at least 6 errors). Among them ,the most dangerous are connecting the neutral wire to the equipment grounding terminal on the 240 volt SINGLE PHASE welder/compressor plugs . You can use the white wire but it should be marked green.There was a time it was acceptable to connect the neutral wire with the ground in 2 specific instances .Namely electric clothes dryers and electric ranges .NOT anymore .the equipment ground should be separate from the neutral which is why code requires a 4 wire receptacle/wiring .The hazard is if the service (or anywhere) neutral is lost ,you still (hopefully ) have the ground .Key words are equipment ground which is NOT a current carrying conductor .Neutral wires are normally tied together with ground wires in the main service panel ,and not at subpanels .regardless if you have a mains in the sub panel .2ndly ,you should have used # 6 for as 50 amp circuit .Although # 8 THHN will carry 50 amps @90 deg. cent .,always refer to the 60 degree table in the code if you aren't sure .The insurance companies have a huge part in revising the Codes ,and rightly so since they pay the claims.That is why I suggest you take these videos down .I am a Licensed Electrical contractor (40+) years and see this crap all the timeI don't have the time left to try and correct all the mess out there.Regards and best wishes
I totally agree with you Mr. Plasko, people like this well what can I say, the insurance companies love them, there by creating a great reason why they shouldn't pay off on your insurance claim. There are so many people like this guy that thinks electrical is a piece of cake, there is reason why we have a National Electrical Code, and it can get very complicated, trying to figure out the text and their meanings. The Code is written and approved by the NFPA. Yep that's right the National Fire Prevention Association, so wake up people, hire a licensed electrical contractor, ( not off of Craig's List ) ask to see his license, he will show you two his contractors license, and his masters, if he doesn't have those or starts to making excuses pass him up. Good Luck
I agree. Take it down. This is garbage. It's surprising how many people will take his advice without question. I like how he was working in that panel as though shutting the main breaker off, also de-energizes the line side. Wrong size wire, didn't need 4 wires, equipment grounding conductor not green and landed on neutral bar in subpanel, nongrounding 30A receptacle. Those are just the major issues, not to mention the cringy ones. When his place burns down, he'll no doubt be going after the electrician who was there, like once.
Isn't that a ground prong on the plug? If so, it has to be wired to the ground wire and not the neutral. If your welder doesn't need 120V (like ovens tend to, to power a light bulb or whatever), you only need to run 3 wires to it (hot, hot, ground). In that case, you use the white wire as a hot, and wrap it with black or red tape to show that. You could have used an 8-2 cable with ground, which is cheaper.
He’s clearly using the wrong terminology, but that can be dangerous. Neutral is the return path for a 120v load. A good way to understand a main panel is that it is actually 240v between the two 120v legs, but a 120v circuit uses a neutral essentially as a center tap like a transformer to half the voltage. There are 240 circuits that do have a neutral for loads that need both 120 and 240, like a modern dryer with a microprocessor control panel. The heater part of the dryer sees the two 120 legs and the ground, the panel sees ONE 120v leg, which returns over the neutral ... and both have the ground for protection from a short.
I often wondered if it is fine to have a non-dedicated 220v circuit; because I have only ever seen dedicated 220 or 240v circuits. Is it correct to generalize and say that any circuit that is dedicated can be nondedicated, but it depends upon the purpose of the circuit?
Doing the larger 50 amp receptacles is much easier using a metallic 4 11/16ths square box with an extension if needed to give enough room behind the receptacle for the leads. Not only is it harder but it can stress the wire to cram them in. Code also has a requirement for the number and type of conductor and the required number of cubic inches in the box. Good project. Take care. Doug
Good video. I have a 3 car garage/ man cave fully insulated, ceilings too and even the garage doors. Garage is about 660 sq ft with 8ft celing hight. The lowest tempature during Christmas will be 37 degrees farenhight. My questions is if I install a 5000-7000w electric heater, I have to installed a 240v outlet too right or it can be just hardwired?? Eventually I will buy a minisplit system and be getting rid of the electric heater. Will I be able to use the 240v outlet previously installed for electric heater when I install mini split in future?? Also we will be getting an electric car down the road so I will need a 240v outlet to charge car so what will be the correct pathway for my projects, install a 240v right now for electric heater so I have heater in man cave before Christmas or maybe just use propane heater just for that day🙄 until I figure out what minisplit system to buy?? Sorry for all the questions
I'm not an electrician, but what you've said does not sound correct. You have two phases conducting to neutral for split branch 110 and a ground for arc fault/ground fault. Hot/hot yields 220 and hot/neutral is 110. Do you think they just add useless conductors? Or am I misunderstanding something?
@@ZacharyMelo I'm not an expert either but just ran a bunch of 220 for myself. What you did is a typical 3 wire setup. Your ground happens to be white cause that's the wire you have but it's functioning as a ground. There is no neutral in 3 wire 220. The 2 hot legs are out of phase so the opposing leg acts as a return path if a short occurs. That's what I was told by an electrician anyway. I put a shutoff switch on each plug just cause I'm weird and don't want machines hot all the time.
@@ZacharyMelo he should not hook up the neutral on this receptacle. That should be a ground. Some appliances are rated 120/240 and in that case you would need a neutral. The plug would also have four prongs. Theoretically, the neutral is bonded to the ground bus, so in the case of a short circuit it would still trip the breaker.
Hey Dan,as someone that's building a shop/garage on my hunting property in the spring I appreciate you showing mistakes and changes to your thinking. I've been doing hardwood floors for 24 years and I still talk myself through the job. Instead of just showing us how to do things perfectly you're showing how to learn from others. At least that's what I'm getting from your videos. Also I'm addicted to tractor videos! I'm hoping to talk the wife into letting me get the Kubota before I start the project. You've given me video proof that I NEED the tractor to build the shop! Worth a try anyways. Keep the videos coming! Jeremy
It’s great getting comments from like minded people!!! I really hope your getting some good stuff out of these videos!! I spent over a year working on getting my wife to say ok to the Kubota, good luck!!!
I need a couple of more receptacles for my Everlast welders. I currently need to unplug one if I need to use my other welder and same with my powerplasma cutter.
In Canada , I don’t think we’re allowed to have a series circuit when your doing multiple 240v outlets. Your codes may vary though. I’d prefer them separate circuits regardless
@@oh8wingman but can you have two breakers in the same junction box? For example 2x 30a 240v circuit breakers each with its own wire going to their own 30a outlet, but both of these outlets are in a single double junction box.
So instead of a connector why would you not have just joined the wires in the plug since there is ample room to do so and avoid the congestion of the blue connectors
Daniel, You need to make a video showing how to fix your mistake in this one and link it to this one. Although not the best way, pull all of the receptacles and put green phase tape on the white. Phase tape the white in the panel green and move it to the ground bar. Or, disconnect all the neutrals from the receptacles, wire nut them off, and connect the ground to the ground terminals in receptacles. Both are legal, but second way is better!
why so many 220v outlets on the same breaker? Im thinking if you run a 150 amp welder and clothes dryer at the same time it will trip the breaker right?
Buda Bunda Because I am only one person and I will only be using one outlet at a time, I was not Worried about overall drop. Also my house is feed from a separate 200 amp panel
Love your video but man I wish that camera had a better autofocus, its like less than 1/4 of the time it was the closest thing in frame in focus, keeps on jumping to the background even though you do a great job of centering the objects in frame
I had to do this for a welder/generator plug. Ran the main line to the welder feed, x/3 wire, then bypassed the white onto the generator box with the others. Black and red for hots, white for negative (welder doesn't use), and green/bare for ground. Same 3 prong 220/50a receptical he used and a "generator hook up box" from the store. Only one at a time so the same lines fine with me, but I'm sure it's not supposed to be that way.
I'm not an electrician, but there is a lot wrong in here. Wrong wire (don't need the neutral). Wrong breaker (30 amp is appropriate). I hope you fixed these.
One thing you didn’t mention is having your work inspected helps with insurance if anything goes wrong. Have a fire in the garage and the first thing the homeowner insurance will want to see is your electrical inspection.
Hey, Dan, you should always tape up your wire nuts I don't know if that is code but if a wire nut comes loose you could have a big problem if a hot lead comes into contact with a metal grounded box !!! Just say'in I always tape wire nuts with electrical tape!!
You worked hard, and produced an interesting video, with some value; your honesty about drilling into wires is applauded; am disappointed, when your refer to those AC outlets, as plugs, and breakers; they are outlets, or sockets, what is pushed in, is called the plug.
Question- hope someone can help. I have a 15a 110v outlet. I need 240v at 15a. Can I take my neutral from my 15a romex off the neutral bar and put it on a new 15a 110v breaker across the panel on a different phase? Code is irrelevant, i just want it to work. Makes sense to me.
Looks like you got your 240V wiring mixed up. Your using 2 types of 240 outlets, 10-30r which uses 2 hots and neutral and 6-50r which uses 2 hots and ground. The videos show you wiring up the 6-50r with 2 hots and the white wire (neutral) , should have used the green wire (ground), but then again you may have fixed it by now.
Hey you help me solve my problem. I tried to convert my 10-30 into a 14-50. And now I realize mine is 2 hots & a neutral while the 14-50 is 2 hot neutral ground and it keep tripping the breaker although it says 50 amps The wire is probably rated for 30............ Maybe I should have hired an electrician
Damn poor thing. that really sucks. Funny I did something similar. I was removing a wire staple with a flat head and it went thru the insulation and hit the conductors and sparked. Also had to replace the whole wire. but mine was a much shorter run.
That’s what i hate about staples. Sometimes they’re so tight that the screwdriver drives into the insulated wire. I use plastic retainers with nails on the side. The arch on the plastic prevents it from being overly tight which assists removal without damaging the wire.
I am no expert by any means but I immediately noticed the mistake when he started wiring the 3rd wire (white) to the lug where a ground green wire should go.
for me i wld have used metal boxes and just added mud rings to make bigger box so i cld have used much better cable clamps and have greater support for large plugs that i wld be plugging and unplugging. also i wld have used copper crimps instaed of wire nuts agian larger cables i wld want a more secure bond. al and all not bad hope you got that inspected tho if not make sure your insurance co. dosent watch you tube lol
If you quit talking about your tools and what your going to get, video would be substantially shorter. That said. Good info, Thank you. Constructive criticism, not a Unappreciated stab. I enjoyed!!
Nope I have not posted the ceiling video yet, I’m going to wait to add it to the overall sheet rock video, and I have not put up the rest of the sheet rock yet. As for the 12/2 wire I only used that because I has some left over and I did not have enough 14/2, it does not have to be run to a 20AMP breaker, but I did make sure that the plugs and switch are rated for 20 AMPS just in case I want to change it later.
If it’s a long run, you upsize the wire to account for line losses. So even though you typically use 14 awg on a 15A circuit, If you are over 100’ ish, you bump up one size wire. So 12 awg instead of 14 awg.
You over filled your boxes that's why it's not a good idea to Daisy chain and b put a device in the same box. The recptical you use require no neutral. And if you don't put wall board up you can not run type NM cable through the studs under 7 feet.
I see these all the time. Before you do this hack, think about why your electric cook stove or electric dryer are not connected like this! I will let you know that if you cause a fire, you will be violation of NEC code, it will be figured out by an investigator, and your insurance will not cover any of the damage. Your insurance carrier will likely drop your coverage as well!
check this video out i think it will help, this is exactly what i did on y house except i was not making TH-cam back then, so this video is of my brothers house. th-cam.com/video/rtOtEvkTnoI/w-d-xo.html
Correction: 220V-3-prong plugs do not use a neutral. 4-wire 220v (which includes a neutral, a ground and 2 hots), are meant to be used for 4-prong plugs, or splitting into multiple 110v circuits. Some 220V items require a neutral (4-prong plug) because they have use of 110V as part of their function. He had 3 wire plug, so in this video, you are correct in that the neutral is not needed, and should NEVER be used for ground, just as the ground should never be used as a neutral.
Everything looked good until he showed using 8/3 & 10/3 as if they were 8/2 & 10/2! He’s continuing the bare ground through each box but not using the bare ground as the actual ground! He’s using the neutral wire as the ground and not re-designating the neutral as the ground! This is odd as he should’ve just used 8/2 & 10/2 and been done with it and saved one conductor and the money too! This way he’s done it incorrectly the white should’ve been capped off in each box. The bare ground is the only wire to be used as ground at each receptacle! He used the neutral at each receptacle as a ground and terminated it at the panel as neutral. This makes each piece of equipment bonded instead of grounded and this is not to any code since the late 90’s.
You would never past that wiring in Ontario Canada .Single phase 220 v don't need the neutral you have 2 hot and the ground and at panel neutral is your return from any branch circuit 120v and you can use 8/2plus ground and 10/2 plus ground on 220v single phase I'm sure in USA is same from master electrician
If an appliance needs 240V AND 120V, like a stove, it will have four wires (by modern code). The two hot wires (red and black) provide the 240V, and the neutral vs. either the red or the black provides 120V. The ground is just a ground and the neutral is just a neutral. You shouldn't use the neutral to provide both a return leg for 120V and for the ground.
Shouldn't you have the electrical wiring above the water lines instead of beneath them? the reason would be if the water lines burst it would be dripping on the electrically lines
You can not pig tale the receptacles like that. When it comes to 220 volts circuits, each receptacle is to have its own dedicated circuit. Any inspector who pass this job is an idiot and has to be fired immediately.
Honestly everyone is talking about you should of got 10-2 or 8-2..but its to late and you already opened it...and it doesnt really matter what they are saying about the neutral wire...your coming off of the main panel and the grounds and neutrals are bonded...only matters if your coming off of a sub-panel....So good work and you do such at doing electric...if i was you,do quit your day job.
i know this is old but would be interesting to know if the inspection noted any changes daniel had to make.
Great job, humble, showed screw-up, good explanations.
Not a great job
Can I wire a double gain outlet from one 240 circuit but use two 240 outlets next to each other and just run a pigtail to the next outlet without having to use wirenut just hot to next outlet it has two sides on each screw?
Dan - I enjoy your videos and always learn something valuable. Thanks for a great channel and awesome content. Kudos for sharing mistakes. Huge respect for you not only sharing success but also mistakes. There are alway a lot of balls in the air when working and trying to capture video content. Have a Happy Thanksgiving!
at 14:15 Are you allow to have two receptible next to each other?
Thank you very much it really helped answer my question. I didn’t want to run a whole new wire for my stove, I can pigtail from my dryer which is accessible.
Run a whole new wire. It is against code to have more than one outlet on a breaker 30amps or larger
This is not only not code but not feasible. If you run your dryer and stove at the same time, you will blow the circuit. Remember that the most inefficient way that you can use electricity is to turn it to heat.
Cool video, all I need to do is move an existing 220/240 where the dryer used to be, to the other side of my garage for my welder and compressor...I should be able to piggyback off that one, wire over my garage ceiling trusses and down into the existing 110 receptacle and make it a 220...that looks like it's mounted on sheet rock...can the neutral from the dryer be enough for the mounting on the other side?
I'm sure that you have all solved the issues by now and probably learned alot. I'm not going repeat comments that I viewed from others, but rather add suggestions that I didn't see mentioned.
Those blue boxes are ENT boxes for ENT tubing, not for sheathed cables. 4x4 metal boxes with industrial covers are better for your application as the plastic one's are too flimsy. Metal boxes are not that bad to work with and are more robust.
I would have mounted them externally to the wall using emt conduit. It's also much easier to move or make changes down the road rather than tearing into the wall.
Essentially can have multiple outlets running from one breaker fuse. I'm assuming the 3 220v 50 amp outlets can't be used at the same time or the breaker will kick off?
Make It Go yes it would trip if touring multiple thing, this is only a solution for not having to unplug thing just to plug so thing else in. In my shop I’m the only one using tools so there is never a time that two tools are turned in at the same time
Very well done
You need to run 6AWG for 50A according to code
I'm glad someone else noticed that mistake. This guy is a first class hack.
So 10AWG for 50 A isn't good ? What about 100 amp breaker using 10AWG for use with air compressor and welder both being 220 on the same circuit connecting everything in a junction box ?
@@rickchristensen3636 #10 wire is good for up to 30 amps.
Noticed that right off the bat.
Always take your time remember no job is a rush. If you're running a 220 volt circuit always keep it on a dedicated breaker. It is best to have too much than not enough. I can tell this is the first time you must have done something like this but keep up the work you get better at it. One thing I noticed but I could be wrong is that the person who ran those wires was a right-handed person, you're a left-handed person that's why you did not see the wires there.
Hi Daniel I don't want to pile on here , but my advice is to either correct the info your documenting ,or take them down .(I watched 2 of your videos and noted at least 6 errors). Among them ,the most dangerous are connecting the neutral wire to the equipment grounding terminal on the 240 volt SINGLE PHASE welder/compressor plugs . You can use the white wire but it should be marked green.There was a time it was acceptable to connect the neutral wire with the ground in 2 specific instances .Namely electric clothes dryers and electric ranges .NOT anymore .the equipment ground should be separate from the neutral which is why code requires a 4 wire receptacle/wiring .The hazard is if the service (or anywhere) neutral is lost ,you still (hopefully ) have the ground .Key words are equipment ground which is NOT a current carrying conductor .Neutral wires are normally tied together with ground wires in the main service panel ,and not at subpanels .regardless if you have a mains in the sub panel .2ndly ,you should have used # 6 for as 50 amp circuit .Although # 8 THHN will carry 50 amps @90 deg. cent .,always refer to the 60 degree table in the code if you aren't sure .The insurance companies have a huge part in revising the Codes ,and rightly so since they pay the claims.That is why I suggest you take these videos down .I am a Licensed Electrical contractor (40+) years and see this crap all the timeI don't have the time left to try and correct all the mess out there.Regards and best wishes
I totally agree with you Mr. Plasko, people like this well what can I say, the insurance companies love them, there by creating a great reason why they shouldn't pay off on your insurance claim. There are so many people like this guy that thinks electrical is a piece of cake, there is reason why we have a National Electrical Code, and it can get very complicated, trying to figure out the text and their meanings. The Code is written and approved by the NFPA. Yep that's right the National Fire Prevention Association, so wake up people, hire a licensed electrical contractor, ( not off of Craig's List ) ask to see his license, he will show you two his contractors license, and his masters, if he doesn't have those or starts to making excuses pass him up. Good Luck
I agree. Take it down. This is garbage. It's surprising how many people will take his advice without question. I like how he was working in that panel as though shutting the main breaker off, also de-energizes the line side. Wrong size wire, didn't need 4 wires, equipment grounding conductor not green and landed on neutral bar in subpanel, nongrounding 30A receptacle. Those are just the major issues, not to mention the cringy ones. When his place burns down, he'll no doubt be going after the electrician who was there, like once.
I agree take it down to many mistakes
...and he still ignores this message.
@@N0bull Im not paying $3k for something i could do myself for 1k.
Isn't that a ground prong on the plug? If so, it has to be wired to the ground wire and not the neutral. If your welder doesn't need 120V (like ovens tend to, to power a light bulb or whatever), you only need to run 3 wires to it (hot, hot, ground). In that case, you use the white wire as a hot, and wrap it with black or red tape to show that. You could have used an 8-2 cable with ground, which is cheaper.
Somebody tell him the only place the neutral and ground should be tied together is at the main load center. For safety reasons.
He’s clearly using the wrong terminology, but that can be dangerous. Neutral is the return path for a 120v load. A good way to understand a main panel is that it is actually 240v between the two 120v legs, but a 120v circuit uses a neutral essentially as a center tap like a transformer to half the voltage.
There are 240 circuits that do have a neutral for loads that need both 120 and 240, like a modern dryer with a microprocessor control panel. The heater part of the dryer sees the two 120 legs and the ground, the panel sees ONE 120v leg, which returns over the neutral ... and both have the ground for protection from a short.
Seems the white is being used as a ground. I know that many 220 plugs don't need a neutral wire. I'm assuming that's what he's doing here.....
How did the electrical inspection go ,any feedback?
I often wondered if it is fine to have a non-dedicated 220v circuit; because I have only ever seen dedicated 220 or 240v circuits. Is it correct to generalize and say that any circuit that is dedicated can be nondedicated, but it depends upon the purpose of the circuit?
I’m about to wire up a few circuit in my old bath and this helped me figure out exactly what I need to do. Thanks a whole lot.
Did you use pex for the air? That’s what I am doing
yup it works great
How do you twist gauge 10 wire that easy?
Doing the larger 50 amp receptacles is much easier using a metallic 4 11/16ths square box with an extension if needed to give enough room behind the receptacle for the leads. Not only is it harder but it can stress the wire to cram them in. Code also has a requirement for the number and type of conductor and the required number of cubic inches in the box. Good project. Take care. Doug
Good video. I have a 3 car garage/ man cave fully insulated, ceilings too and even the garage doors. Garage is about 660 sq ft with 8ft celing hight. The lowest tempature during Christmas will be 37 degrees farenhight. My questions is if I install a 5000-7000w electric heater, I have to installed a 240v outlet too right or it can be just hardwired??
Eventually I will buy a minisplit system and be getting rid of the electric heater. Will I be able to use the 240v outlet previously installed for electric heater when I install mini split in future??
Also we will be getting an electric car down the road so I will need a 240v outlet to charge car so what will be the correct pathway for my projects, install a 240v right now for electric heater so I have heater in man cave before Christmas or maybe just use propane heater just for that day🙄 until I figure out what minisplit system to buy??
Sorry for all the questions
You are never supposed to wire the neutral in a three wire 240 circuit. It is hot/hot/ground.
I'm not an electrician, but what you've said does not sound correct. You have two phases conducting to neutral for split branch 110 and a ground for arc fault/ground fault. Hot/hot yields 220 and hot/neutral is 110. Do you think they just add useless conductors? Or am I misunderstanding something?
@@ZacharyMelo I'm not an expert either but just ran a bunch of 220 for myself. What you did is a typical 3 wire setup. Your ground happens to be white cause that's the wire you have but it's functioning as a ground. There is no neutral in 3 wire 220. The 2 hot legs are out of phase so the opposing leg acts as a return path if a short occurs. That's what I was told by an electrician anyway. I put a shutoff switch on each plug just cause I'm weird and don't want machines hot all the time.
@@ZacharyMelo he should not hook up the neutral on this receptacle. That should be a ground. Some appliances are rated 120/240 and in that case you would need a neutral. The plug would also have four prongs. Theoretically, the neutral is bonded to the ground bus, so in the case of a short circuit it would still trip the breaker.
Im a sparky and J is 100% correct
Cover plates go on after drywall :p!
Is it possible with 6-3 copper
What's cool is your truthful about the drilling through hot wires. Stuff happens
I need help. I need to reduce the size of 8 gauge wire to a 14 gauge wire to fit a wall receptacle for 110v
What’s the help you need
dont do that just get power from another 110 recepticle box to new recep
220 v ?
Hey Dan,as someone that's building a shop/garage on my hunting property in the spring I appreciate you showing mistakes and changes to your thinking. I've been doing hardwood floors for 24 years and I still talk myself through the job. Instead of just showing us how to do things perfectly you're showing how to learn from others. At least that's what I'm getting from your videos. Also I'm addicted to tractor videos! I'm hoping to talk the wife into letting me get the Kubota before I start the project. You've given me video proof that I NEED the tractor to build the shop! Worth a try anyways. Keep the videos coming! Jeremy
It’s great getting comments from like minded people!!! I really hope your getting some good stuff out of these videos!! I spent over a year working on getting my wife to say ok to the Kubota, good luck!!!
Couldn't you use 10/2 wire instead of 10/3 and just use the bare wire for the grounds instead of white wires?
Absolutely. This video isn’t that great and has lots of misinformation
I need a couple of more receptacles for my Everlast welders. I currently need to unplug one if I need to use my other welder and same with my powerplasma cutter.
In Canada , I don’t think we’re allowed to have a series circuit when your doing multiple 240v outlets. Your codes may vary though. I’d prefer them separate circuits regardless
You are correct. Canadian code specifies one breaker to one outlet. Multiples are not allowed.
@@oh8wingman but can you have two breakers in the same junction box? For example 2x 30a 240v circuit breakers each with its own wire going to their own 30a outlet, but both of these outlets are in a single double junction box.
Great series Dan! your videos have helped me on my build!!
So instead of a connector why would you not have just joined the wires in the plug since there is ample room to do so and avoid the congestion of the blue connectors
Daniel, You need to make a video showing how to fix your mistake in this one and link it to this one. Although not the best way, pull all of the receptacles and put green phase tape on the white. Phase tape the white in the panel green and move it to the ground bar. Or, disconnect all the neutrals from the receptacles, wire nut them off, and connect the ground to the ground terminals in receptacles. Both are legal, but second way is better!
why so many 220v outlets on the same breaker? Im thinking if you run a 150 amp welder and clothes dryer at the same time it will trip the breaker right?
Buda Bunda Because I am only one person and I will only be using one outlet at a time, I was not Worried about overall drop. Also my house is feed from a separate 200 amp panel
Love your video but man I wish that camera had a better autofocus, its like less than 1/4 of the time it was the closest thing in frame in focus, keeps on jumping to the background even though you do a great job of centering the objects in frame
You turned the power on before putting the cover panel on.
I am doing the same ! Isn't safe ?
I had to do this for a welder/generator plug. Ran the main line to the welder feed, x/3 wire, then bypassed the white onto the generator box with the others.
Black and red for hots, white for negative (welder doesn't use), and green/bare for ground. Same 3 prong 220/50a receptical he used and a "generator hook up box" from the store. Only one at a time so the same lines fine with me, but I'm sure it's not supposed to be that way.
This is a great video and you did great but don’t cry about it just get to the point thanks by the way!!
Where did you get the flushed cover? I can only find 1/2” raise covers in HD and Lowe’s
special order or chk with local electrical supply store many will sell to public
i like to put electrical tape around crimp sleve to cover sharp edges that could poke threw wires
I'm not an electrician, but there is a lot wrong in here. Wrong wire (don't need the neutral). Wrong breaker (30 amp is appropriate). I hope you fixed these.
How many feet of wire did you run for this setup
NEC 2017 Lighting fixtures above a pool must be installed at a minimum height of?
3 meters
Id be real interested to see what the inspector said
What inspector , I wouldn't let that hack wire a chicken house , he knows just enough to be dangerous
@@gregberban9273 My sentiments exactly.
Should be fine as long as your not using a welder at the same time as a compressor
One thing you didn’t mention is having your work inspected helps with insurance if anything goes wrong. Have a fire in the garage and the first thing the homeowner insurance will want to see is your electrical inspection.
Hey, Dan, you should always tape up your wire nuts I don't know if that is code but if a wire nut comes loose you could have a big problem if a hot lead comes into contact with a metal grounded box !!! Just say'in I always tape wire nuts with electrical tape!!
Now, how is that going to happen? A baby roach is going to untwist them perhaps? 😅🤣😂
Tape isnt neccessary
You worked hard, and produced an interesting video, with some value; your honesty about drilling into wires is applauded; am disappointed, when your refer to those AC outlets, as plugs, and breakers; they are outlets, or sockets, what is pushed in, is called the plug.
Question- hope someone can help. I have a 15a 110v outlet. I need 240v at 15a. Can I take my neutral from my 15a romex off the neutral bar and put it on a new 15a 110v breaker across the panel on a different phase? Code is irrelevant, i just want it to work. Makes sense to me.
Late reply but it depends on what ur running on that 240v outlet. If it’s 120/240 u need to run 14/3 instead of 14/2
People get killed doing this stuff………the fact that you can do something, doesn’t mean you should!!
Stavros
This is why a good electrician is $150/hr as well as priceless.
It's cheaper to just read the comments.
Looks like you got your 240V wiring mixed up. Your using 2 types of 240 outlets, 10-30r which uses 2 hots and neutral and 6-50r which uses 2 hots and ground. The videos show you wiring up the 6-50r with 2 hots and the white wire (neutral) , should have used the green wire (ground), but then again you may have fixed it by now.
Hey you help me solve my problem. I tried to convert my 10-30 into a 14-50. And now I realize mine is 2 hots & a neutral while the 14-50 is 2 hot neutral ground and it keep tripping the breaker although it says 50 amps The wire is probably rated for 30............
Maybe I should have hired an electrician
Damn poor thing. that really sucks. Funny I did something similar. I was removing a wire staple with a flat head and it went thru the insulation and hit the conductors and sparked. Also had to replace the whole wire. but mine was a much shorter run.
That’s what i hate about staples. Sometimes they’re so tight that the screwdriver drives into the insulated wire. I use plastic retainers with nails on the side. The arch on the plastic prevents it from being overly tight which assists removal without damaging the wire.
Racing apprentice mistake. I'm guilty! You Aplus too? Cheap boxes that melt?
I am no expert by any means but I immediately noticed the mistake when he started wiring the 3rd wire (white) to the lug where a ground green wire should go.
Fantastic overview. Great job.
for me i wld have used metal boxes and just added mud rings to make bigger box so i cld have used much better cable clamps and have greater support for large plugs that i wld be plugging and unplugging. also i wld have used copper crimps instaed of wire nuts agian larger cables i wld want a more secure bond. al and all not bad hope you got that inspected tho if not make sure your insurance co. dosent watch you tube lol
If you quit talking about your tools and what your going to get, video would be substantially shorter. That said. Good info, Thank you.
Constructive criticism, not a
Unappreciated stab. I enjoyed!!
30 amp or higher requires one breaker per outlet
Did I miss the cieling drywall vid!?!? Also, isn’t 12/2 supposed to run to a 20amp breaker for your fans? You said it was going into a 15amp breaker.
Nope I have not posted the ceiling video yet, I’m going to wait to add it to the overall sheet rock video, and I have not put up the rest of the sheet rock yet. As for the 12/2 wire I only used that because I has some left over and I did not have enough 14/2, it does not have to be run to a 20AMP breaker, but I did make sure that the plugs and switch are rated for 20 AMPS just in case I want to change it later.
If it’s a long run, you upsize the wire to account for line losses. So even though you typically use 14 awg on a 15A circuit, If you are over 100’ ish, you bump up one size wire. So 12 awg instead of 14 awg.
You over filled your boxes that's why it's not a good idea to Daisy chain and b put a device in the same box. The recptical you use require no neutral. And if you don't put wall board up you can not run type NM cable through the studs under 7 feet.
Holy CHIT ! ADAM SANDLER
I see these all the time. Before you do this hack, think about why your electric cook stove or electric dryer are not connected like this!
I will let you know that if you cause a fire, you will be violation of NEC code, it will be figured out by an investigator, and your insurance will not cover any of the damage. Your insurance carrier will likely drop your coverage as well!
I don’t think you are up to code on the junction boxes fill, also inspectors like to have neutral wires crimped
You would have needed 6/3 for 50 amp.
Wire colors are code!
Turn off the power on any circuit you are working near is a good practice
Hot hot ground there is no neutral on your set up. If you’re in America is 240 V
Hey Daniel, what gauge wire to you have running from your house main panel to your 100 amp shop sub panel? Thanks, just planing my build.
check this video out i think it will help, this is exactly what i did on y house except i was not making TH-cam back then, so this video is of my brothers house. th-cam.com/video/rtOtEvkTnoI/w-d-xo.html
2 to 4 for 100 amp
Evwryone makes mistakes however most wont admit it 👍👍
220V does not use a neutral, only two hots and a ground, neutral only gets used for 120V, you need to do more research before doing these projects
Correction: 220V-3-prong plugs do not use a neutral. 4-wire 220v (which includes a neutral, a ground and 2 hots), are meant to be used for 4-prong plugs, or splitting into multiple 110v circuits. Some 220V items require a neutral (4-prong plug) because they have use of 110V as part of their function. He had 3 wire plug, so in this video, you are correct in that the neutral is not needed, and should NEVER be used for ground, just as the ground should never be used as a neutral.
Other things on your mind? I'd hate to see your wiring in 2021. LOL! It's ok just joking.
definitely up to code lol.
Which code not the national electrical code.
No disrespect, but not sure you should be showing anyone anything, drilling through existing wires and all.
I could use them pliers
Everything looked good until he showed using 8/3 & 10/3 as if they were 8/2 & 10/2! He’s continuing the bare ground through each box but not using the bare ground as the actual ground!
He’s using the neutral wire as the ground and not re-designating the neutral as the ground! This is odd as he should’ve just used 8/2 & 10/2 and been done with it and saved one conductor and the money too!
This way he’s done it incorrectly the white should’ve been capped off in each box. The bare ground is the only wire to be used as ground at each receptacle!
He used the neutral at each receptacle as a ground and terminated it at the panel as neutral. This makes each piece of equipment bonded instead of grounded and this is not to any code since the late 90’s.
Thanks
Alot of different style lugs your installing
You would never past that wiring in Ontario Canada .Single phase 220 v don't need the neutral you have 2 hot and the ground and at panel neutral is your return from any branch circuit 120v and you can use 8/2plus ground and 10/2 plus ground on 220v single phase I'm sure in USA is same from master electrician
thanks i appropriate that
thanks you explained that much better than i could!!!
If an appliance needs 240V AND 120V, like a stove, it will have four wires (by modern code). The two hot wires (red and black) provide the 240V, and the neutral vs. either the red or the black provides 120V. The ground is just a ground and the neutral is just a neutral. You shouldn't use the neutral to provide both a return leg for 120V and for the ground.
Shouldn't you have the electrical wiring above the water lines instead of beneath them? the reason would be if the water lines burst it would be dripping on the electrically lines
that's his air-lines
You can not pig tale the receptacles like that. When it comes to 220 volts circuits, each receptacle is to have its own dedicated circuit. Any inspector who pass this job is an idiot and has to be fired immediately.
Honestly everyone is talking about you should of got 10-2 or 8-2..but its to late and you already opened it...and it doesnt really matter what they are saying about the neutral wire...your coming off of the main panel and the grounds and neutrals are bonded...only matters if your coming off of a sub-panel....So good work and you do such at doing electric...if i was you,do quit your day job.
Bx cable better
Clearly don’t care about saving money should’ve had a electrician do this the right way for you.
no way man! very incorrect.
Yep after the fact and posting the video I realize this is note code!!!!
If you are not a liscensed electrician, get rid of that video! Also you are totally unprofessional!
Sucks the wires got damaged and now we see why spraying foam insulation into the holes of your wire runs it just a bad idea. ✌️