James, love your videos. Just a quick tip. Before you glue in the wood dowels, use a pencil sharpener to put a nice 1/16" to 1/8" chamfer on the end of the dowel that you insert into the fuselage. Makes it easier to insert the dowel into the fuse. Do the same thing to the wing mount bolts. The taper will make starting the threads easier.
One suggestion when drilling holes in wood, use a sacrificial piece of wood on the backside of the piece you are drilling to avoid tear out when the bit exits the new hole. It makes for very nice clean cut holes.
Well done. I like the string idea. I would have used a tape measure but it would have been more cumbersome. I think I would have found a way to use T nuts for the wing bolts. I really don’t like drilling blindly through the wing. I probably would have waited and installed the wing screw blocks until I was working on the wing, squared the blocks to the wing, added T nuts and then glued the blocks in.
Thanks. Ya, I like T nuts better also. With the angles, the blocks would have to be shaped differently, but that wouldn’t be too hard to do. Not 100% happy with nylon and wooden threads…
It’s coming along nicely and quick. I know what you mean about taping vs blind nuts. I used blind nuts on the Smoothie and it was kind of wonky because of the angle you mentioned. It moved the wing about an 1/8 back because of the angle. I also like the more simplistic build of this vs the Smoothie, the Smoothie had too much carving of blocks.
Nice that you built the smoothie. I agree, this one seems to be going together quicker. This is my second BUSA kit, both old kits/designs. I’m finding that it appears that over the years they have made modifications to the kits and instructions that ate not always consistent, I remember the smoothie had different orientations of the blocks depending on instruction book or plans. And there were some other issues. This one is similar, things are not always consistent. But overall they are nice. I wonder if the newer plane kits have better quality control than these “resurrected” ones.
I was looking at that angle...Hmmm...Yeah, you could use "T-nuts", but you would have to "Inlay" them into the mounting wood blocks...That seems a bit cumbersome...Same technique tryna mount Front cowl mounting bolts...Weird angles...Sooo, what I found was Brass inserts that are just screwed in from the back of the holes, sorta like Heli-Coils....Problem is in this case, how do you access the bottom of the Wong mounting mounting blocks, coz I think ,if I remember correctly, at this point, they can't be accessed... Will have study that part of the vid and see....
@@JamesRCPlaneTech ... Well, Thanks Sir...I tryna get back in the hobby after 'bout ta 10 yrs hiatus due to financial reasons...Learnt alot along along the way, but as they say...."If you don't use it, you lose it"....Sooo, I'm watching you to relearn the some building techniques....
I’ve always had the impression that ratio is important when mixing epoxy, so I always use a jewellers scale. Probably over the top, but it’s part of my routine now ;-)
Thats a good idea. I always eyeball it and there are times when it cures a little faster or slower, but for sure need to get the ratio close, probably having it off too much would impact the strength.
Hi, I’m not familiar with any in OC, but there is Tony’s Hobby in Baldwin Park. They have a ton of ARFs, some engines, fuels, plugs, etc. they are pretty good. Any if you have a part number you are looking for you can call them to see if they have it. The place is Pegasus in Ontario, I have been in a while. They are similar to Tony’s but they also sell used items and they even had older kits. Hope that helps.
James, love your videos. Just a quick tip. Before you glue in the wood dowels, use a pencil sharpener to put a nice 1/16" to 1/8" chamfer on the end of the dowel that you insert into the fuselage. Makes it easier to insert the dowel into the fuse. Do the same thing to the wing mount bolts. The taper will make starting the threads easier.
Hi. That is a great tip! I love that one. I’ll try to remember that in the future. Thanks!
bel video sempre piacevole ed interessante la parte della filettatura del legno e il suo irrigidimento con CA
Thank you Marco!
Great video, I enjoy watching your videos good stuff
Thank you, I appreciate it!
Looking good ! 👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you, much appreciated!
One suggestion when drilling holes in wood, use a sacrificial piece of wood on the backside of the piece you are drilling to avoid tear out when the bit exits the new hole. It makes for very nice clean cut holes.
Great tip, thanks! and I was thinking also of soaking the wood with thin CA but forgot. Ug, it was ugly. Thanks again!
Well done. I like the string idea. I would have used a tape measure but it would have been more cumbersome. I think I would have found a way to use T nuts for the wing bolts. I really don’t like drilling blindly through the wing. I probably would have waited and installed the wing screw blocks until I was working on the wing, squared the blocks to the wing, added T nuts and then glued the blocks in.
Thanks. Ya, I like T nuts better also. With the angles, the blocks would have to be shaped differently, but that wouldn’t be too hard to do. Not 100% happy with nylon and wooden threads…
It’s coming along nicely and quick.
I know what you mean about taping vs blind nuts.
I used blind nuts on the Smoothie and it was kind of wonky because of the angle you mentioned. It moved the wing about an 1/8 back because of the angle.
I also like the more simplistic build of this vs the Smoothie, the Smoothie had too much carving of blocks.
Nice that you built the smoothie. I agree, this one seems to be going together quicker. This is my second BUSA kit, both old kits/designs. I’m finding that it appears that over the years they have made modifications to the kits and instructions that ate not always consistent, I remember the smoothie had different orientations of the blocks depending on instruction book or plans. And there were some other issues. This one is similar, things are not always consistent. But overall they are nice. I wonder if the newer plane kits have better quality control than these “resurrected” ones.
I was looking at that angle...Hmmm...Yeah, you could use "T-nuts", but you would have to "Inlay" them into the mounting wood blocks...That seems a bit cumbersome...Same technique tryna mount Front cowl mounting bolts...Weird angles...Sooo, what I found was Brass inserts that are just screwed in from the back of the holes, sorta like Heli-Coils....Problem is in this case, how do you access the bottom of the Wong mounting mounting blocks, coz I think ,if I remember correctly, at this point, they can't be accessed... Will have study that part of the vid and see....
Thats a good tip. threaded brass inserts, ill have to look into that.
@@JamesRCPlaneTech ... Well, Thanks Sir...I tryna get back in the hobby after 'bout ta 10 yrs hiatus due to financial reasons...Learnt alot along along the way, but as they say...."If you don't use it, you lose it"....Sooo, I'm watching you to relearn the some building techniques....
Thanks! I appreciate it. I do a lot of checking what others are doing. Best way to learn.
I’ve always had the impression that ratio is important when mixing epoxy, so I always use a jewellers scale. Probably over the top, but it’s part of my routine now ;-)
Thats a good idea. I always eyeball it and there are times when it cures a little faster or slower, but for sure need to get the ratio close, probably having it off too much would impact the strength.
Those “1,2,3,”steel blocks have become ubiquitous.
Great, they are supper helpful. I have 4 and need to get a few more.
Next time instead of string use a length of wood anchored at the tail and then a fixed distance can be established to square the wing
Thanks. Ya, something stiff would be easier since it couldn’t stretch.
Super 👍 mais a la fin de la vidéo il manque le test avec la corde. Mais j imagine que c était bon.😉
Thanks!
What's a good RC plane store to go to, I'm in orange county.
Thank you
Hi, I’m not familiar with any in OC, but there is Tony’s Hobby in Baldwin Park. They have a ton of ARFs, some engines, fuels, plugs, etc. they are pretty good. Any if you have a part number you are looking for you can call them to see if they have it. The place is Pegasus in Ontario, I have been in a while. They are similar to Tony’s but they also sell used items and they even had older kits. Hope that helps.