Hi Elin, I invented several new swear words in English, Spanish and Jamaican when trying to refit the brake shoes. That is, until I decided to take a 1/2 inch socket, and using the two holes in the hub flange, I reached in and loosened the six nuts holding the axle flange onto the suspension trailing arm.. Loosen the six nuts off until they are level with the end of the studs. The axle is a two piece tube with splines so you can slide the axle out enough to get the lower brake shoe spring to pass by between the hub flange and the adjuster. Be careful when retightening the six nuts since the studs are fine threads and can be stripped easily if overtightened. I could not find a specific torque figure in my British Leyland Workshop Manual I purchased from Triumphtune in England in 1989. However, having worked on British cars on and off for more than 63 years, in the early days I stripped my share of fine threaded studs through exuberant tightening. On my TR6 the nuts are Nyloc nuts so they are not likely to come off if tightened reasonably.
I remembered this video from earlier and looked it up again. Just in time too as I am doing the rear brakes on my TR6 later this week. Great info! Thanks.
Thank you for this video. I was trying to take the clips off the rear brake cylinder. The small clip came off easily. The other two clips just didn't want to separate. Watching this video showed me that the lower one had two teeth to lock it to the upper one. Once you video showed me that, it was easier to get them off. Thanks!
When I replaced the rear wheel cylinders on my TR4A, I had trouble getting the cylinder into the backing plate and getting the clips on. Turned out that there was some excess material on the sides of the cylinder let over from the casting. I had to file the sides of the cylinders to remove the excess “ridge”. Once the sides were smooth it all fit fine. Also the Macy’s Garage web site (Tech section) has a nice tutorial on fitting those cylinder clips.
Hi Elin, Just like to thank you for this video, it prompted me to check mine on my TR250 and I discovered not only had they had been installed incorrectly i also had the begging of a cylinder leak. Keep up the good work Sir.
Great video, huge thanks, just wanted to add that I found the using channel locks for putting the clips on, and taking off again when have an oops, works very well.
Further to my comment about loosening the nuts holding the axle flange, I did some You Tube research and found the recommended torque tightening specification for these 1/2 inch nuts is 16 lb/ft
It's neat that rear drum brakes are very much the same across types of cars and years! This is the same proceedure and parts as on my BMW back in the day. And my 75 CJ-5 also, IIRC.
Wow, what a screwed up design those rear brake cylinders are! I’ve never had to investigate mine. I’m glad, and so lucky! I can see why you don’t like them.
They are never easy Elin and I hope you can get the axles out without stripping those brakes off again as I seem to recall that the retaining springs might be in the way? Kind regards, Richard.
That’s a great instructional video Elin. Wish I had it a few weeks ago when I did my TR6 rear brakes. Didn’t install any grease behind the cylinder. They slide, but not as easily as yours. I adjusted the adjuster prior to bleeding, I’m guessing I should go back and re-adjust? What do you think?
Elin can you go back and check the RH rear brake shoe because after you greased the tapered plunger it looked like it didn't sit right into the plunger. May have been just the angle but when you wound the adjuster in that shoe was outside the adjuster block. I hope you don't mind my suggesting an extra check. Brake shoes can be a real PIA ...
@@pucman1 As you can see I don’t learn from my own mistakes :) but maybe I can learn from yours. I didn’t know you were filming your project, so now I checked it and subscribed. Now I have an excuse to sit by the pool, drink beer and watch TH-cam. Looks like the two cars in the garage will have to wait till the evening when it cools down a little :)
Hi Elin,
I invented several new swear words in English, Spanish and Jamaican when trying to refit the brake shoes. That is, until I decided to take a 1/2 inch socket, and using the two holes in the hub flange, I reached in and loosened the six nuts holding the axle flange onto the suspension trailing arm..
Loosen the six nuts off until they are level with the end of the studs. The axle is a two piece tube with splines so you can slide the axle out enough to get the lower brake shoe spring to pass by between the hub flange and the adjuster. Be careful when retightening the six nuts since the studs are fine threads and can be stripped easily if overtightened. I could not find a specific torque figure in my British Leyland Workshop Manual I purchased from Triumphtune in England in 1989. However, having worked on British cars on and off for more than 63 years, in the early days I stripped my share of fine threaded studs through exuberant tightening. On my TR6 the nuts are Nyloc nuts so they are not likely to come off if tightened reasonably.
New TR6 owner here. Thanks for the great videos. I'm learning a lot and enjoy them.
Great video helped with my TVR which uses the same type of wheel cylinder set up . TVR forums had nothing like this thanks a lot .
I remembered this video from earlier and looked it up again. Just in time too as I am doing the rear brakes on my TR6 later this week. Great info! Thanks.
The lighting and close ups are great. Nice job. I have not seen a sliding cylinder like that before. Thanks.
Great video ! great insight as to how the rear brake adjuster works !
Elin you have great teaching style! I haven’t had a triumph (TR3) in over 30 years but I’m sure I can work on a TR6. Thank you.
Thank you for this video. I was trying to take the clips off the rear brake cylinder. The small clip came off easily. The other two clips just didn't want to separate. Watching this video showed me that the lower one had two teeth to lock it to the upper one. Once you video showed me that, it was easier to get them off. Thanks!
When I replaced the rear wheel cylinders on my TR4A, I had trouble getting the cylinder into the backing plate and getting the clips on. Turned out that there was some excess material on the sides of the cylinder let over from the casting. I had to file the sides of the cylinders to remove the excess “ridge”. Once the sides were smooth it all fit fine.
Also the Macy’s Garage web site (Tech section) has a nice tutorial on fitting those cylinder clips.
Hi Elin,
Just like to thank you for this video, it prompted me to check mine on my TR250 and I discovered not only had they had been installed incorrectly i also had the begging of a cylinder leak.
Keep up the good work Sir.
Great video, huge thanks, just wanted to add that I found the using channel locks for putting the clips on, and taking off again when have an oops, works very well.
Further to my comment about loosening the nuts holding the axle flange, I did some You Tube research and found the recommended torque tightening specification for these 1/2 inch nuts is 16 lb/ft
Thanks I will use all this advise hopefully next week to get mine back together.
It's neat that rear drum brakes are very much the same across types of cars and years! This is the same proceedure and parts as on my BMW back in the day. And my 75 CJ-5 also, IIRC.
Great filming 👍 I must say that brakecylinder system is in my point of view a wierd one 😊 thx
What a strange wheel cylinder operation. I'm glad mine was converted to disks!
this is a very very good video, thanks a lot, a good help for me
I would grease the brake adjuster to help protect it from rusting and to keep it operating smoothly.
You fooled me and greased it after you fitted the brake shoes lol
Yes I’m exactly the same with remembering how shoes fit , after a year or two 😠
Wow, what a screwed up design those rear brake cylinders are! I’ve never had to investigate mine. I’m glad, and so lucky! I can see why you don’t like them.
They are never easy Elin and I hope you can get the axles out without stripping those brakes off again as I seem to recall that the retaining springs might be in the way? Kind regards, Richard.
Oh, I’ve done it before. The springs need to be pushed apart a little with a screwdriver or something but it is not hard at all.
That’s a great instructional video Elin. Wish I had it a few weeks ago when I did my TR6 rear brakes. Didn’t install any grease behind the cylinder. They slide, but not as easily as yours. I adjusted the adjuster prior to bleeding, I’m guessing I should go back and re-adjust? What do you think?
good teaching
Elin can you go back and check the RH rear brake shoe because after you greased the tapered plunger it looked like it didn't sit right into the plunger. May have been just the angle but when you wound the adjuster in that shoe was outside the adjuster block.
I hope you don't mind my suggesting an extra check.
Brake shoes can be a real PIA ...
I will double check, thank you. I always make sure that everything is in place before I call it done, but it is always a good idea to check again :)
great
Copper grease would have been better to use.
7:01 example of a really crap British design.
first
Only cuz you’re sitting with your legs up since last night when I told you a new video was coming 😂 Looks like your 12 hour shift is not very busy :)
@@RustyBeauties well if you had watched my brake video you would have known to put the e brake lever in first haha
@@pucman1 As you can see I don’t learn from my own mistakes :) but maybe I can learn from yours. I didn’t know you were filming your project, so now I checked it and subscribed. Now I have an excuse to sit by the pool, drink beer and watch TH-cam. Looks like the two cars in the garage will have to wait till the evening when it cools down a little :)
What a load of nonsense the avoid the fitment of twin leading shoes, booooo to Triumph