I own two vehicles that are an absolute delight to work on. My 1970 Spitfire and my 1975 Harley Davidson FL. I know that there are any Sayers out there who will say that you have to wrench these vehicles, the are always breaking down. To them I say "bunk" . I've had other cars ,trucks and motorcycle and they break down just as much. It is as I stated delightful to work on them. In both with some good tools, some mechanical skill there are few repairs that are hard to make. And replacement parts are readily available. As for spending time working on one of them. Well, I enjoy doing mechanic work. The most important thing is to stay on top of maintenance and repairs.
Very very well done. One the clearest tutorials and it is a coincidence you redid the the part where the handbrake pin slides in the groove of the slave cylinder. I saw it happen and I rewinded to see it once more, but you redid it by yourself because you realized it was worth to reshow that part in a more detailed way. Not many people do so on TH-cam. Many thanks. New subscriber from Belgium!
Hiya, I found it useful to join the two shoes with the two springs away from the car, then wangle the shoes around the hub. Much easier and quicker. That said, the upper spring needed its ends opening out a bit with two pairs of pliers before they would go into their respective outer holes in the shoes. Lubricate the shoes' rubbing points with copperslip before installing the pegs and little springs and cap thingies. 😀There are useful notes below as to which end of the shoes goes up or down. Refer chris mac below.
Interesting, but ALWAYS clean the components before reassembly. While you’re about it, use a little copper grease on the areas where the wheel cylinder and those spring clips touch the backplate. I can confirm that refitting the shoes is invariably a very fiddly job- especially when the car is at ground level. On this occasion, the operator was lucky and everything went smoothly. This message from a Spitfire 1V owner of 40 plus years!
I would also like to add, before installing the shoes, clean up the pedestals the shoes ride on with some sandpaper to clean the ridges up, and lightly lubricate with a SMALL amount of white lithium grease. This facilitates the shoes working smoothly.
The top tensioner spring is supposed to be BEHIND the shoes, the hold down springs are supposed to have a washer on both sides of the spring, and you are supposed to lubricate behind the slave cylinder and also where the shoes rub against the back plate!
the spring part was noted a few hours after the video was posted in the description, as for everything else, I've done it this way and never had an issue, but yes, lubrication always helps
Same brake system then Ford Escort 1.1 -1.3 year: 69-74. Very hard get ''force'' balance left and right side. Regards Tuomo Finland, Herald and Escort Mk1 owner.
you installed the top spring incorrectly, it should be on the rear part of the shoes, not on the front part next to the hub, look at your first shot of the shoes that are installed, at 1.36 into the video ,you can see those are correct with the springs on the back of the shoes, not on the front. Also the orientation of the shoes is important in relation to the direction of the wheel turning, at each end of the shoe the length of braking material is different, or in other words the metal part of the shoe is longer at one end than the other, so the longer piece of metal on the brake shoe should be the leading edge as the wheel turns so on the right hand side of the car the longer metal piece would be top right, and for the left hand shoe the longer piece would be bottom left, and vice versa on the left hand side of the car.
I mentioned that in the description and i went and fixed it after i posted the video, and as far as the orientation, im aware of that but this is how ive always seen these installed on spitfires
@@squeelznpeelz3135 hi, ah okay, if this is the same side wheel you show at the beginning of the video then you have installed the shoes upside down, if you look at your video at 2.10 you can see that your left hand brake shoe has the longer piece of metal on the brake shoe, the leading edge, when you re install them you you have the short length instead, your installation and orientation on the shoes is correct if it is the right hand wheel you are working on, can you see what I mean , look at 8.04, you are holding the brake shoe with the short end and it should be the long end there if this is the left hand wheel.
@@christoph404 okay makes sense. So in the video i remove the wheel and drum off of the driver side, however i only show the instillation on the passenger side. Its a bit out of wack but i basically decided to start the video once i had the passenger side dissassembled
And i filmed removing the driver side wheel after and put it at the beginning of the video to sort of show how it was when i first took off the wheel and drum on the other side. Im not very good at making these videos, i just figured id share my experience as i worked on the car and maybe it could be used as a point of refrence in some way to help people out, but i guess then in some cases its misleading, which i apoligise for
The park brake cable attach is not supposed to have a bolt. It should be a clevis pin. If using a bolt, you should use a shoulder bolt and NOT a bolt with threads all the way up.
true, I put on the video description about the spring right after I posted and went back to fix it pretty soon after I posted the video way back when haha
OY mate! You've got that top spring on the WRONG side of the shoe! It goes on the INSIDE of the shoe, as evident by the very first minute of your video. :) You join the 2 shoes with the spring, then hang the assembly on the backing plate. I would also suggest, you NEVER use your center cap as a container for your lugs, all that will do is scratch the dog crap out of your center cap :) But thank you!!!
thanks,, good points! I put on the video description about the spring right after I posted and went back to fix it pretty soon after I posted the video way back when haha
The top spring should be behind the shoe as it was when you removed it, it pulls the shoes to the rear & cannot come into contact with the spinning hub. It's good practice to clean up the backing plate around the cylinder & add some copper or high melting point grease to make sure it slides side to side when the handbrake is used. If using a new or old brake adjuster you once again should grease it & put the shake proof washers on with the nuts.
thanks! I put ion the video description about the spring right after I posted and went back to fix it pretty soon after I posted the video way back when
Fantastic Video, particularly when the car I have came with the brake disassembled . You have saved the day for me.
I own two vehicles that are an absolute delight to work on. My 1970 Spitfire and my 1975 Harley Davidson FL. I know that there are any Sayers out there who will say that you have to wrench these vehicles, the are always breaking down. To them I say "bunk" . I've had other cars ,trucks and motorcycle and they break down just as much. It is as I stated delightful to work on them. In both with some good tools, some mechanical skill there are few repairs that are hard to make. And replacement parts are readily available. As for spending time working on one of them. Well, I enjoy doing mechanic work. The most important thing is to stay on top of maintenance and repairs.
Very very well done. One the clearest tutorials and it is a coincidence you redid the the part where the handbrake pin slides in the groove of the slave cylinder. I saw it happen and I rewinded to see it once more, but you redid it by yourself because you realized it was worth to reshow that part in a more detailed way. Not many people do so on TH-cam.
Many thanks. New subscriber from Belgium!
Hiya, I found it useful to join the two shoes with the two springs away from the car, then wangle the shoes around the hub. Much easier and quicker. That said, the upper spring needed its ends opening out a bit with two pairs of pliers before they would go into their respective outer holes in the shoes. Lubricate the shoes' rubbing points with copperslip before installing the pegs and little springs and cap thingies. 😀There are useful notes below as to which end of the shoes goes up or down. Refer chris mac below.
I'll be doing the brakes on my 71 Spit soon, thanks for the tutorial!
Interesting, but ALWAYS clean the components before reassembly. While you’re about it, use a little copper grease on the areas where the wheel cylinder and those spring clips touch the backplate. I can confirm that refitting the shoes is invariably a very fiddly job- especially when the car is at ground level. On this occasion, the operator was lucky and everything went smoothly. This message from a Spitfire 1V owner of 40 plus years!
I like your videos. But this time: shouldn't be the spring on the rear of the brake pads? However. Nice video 😀
I would also like to add, before installing the shoes, clean up the pedestals the shoes ride on with some sandpaper to clean the ridges up, and lightly lubricate with a SMALL amount of white lithium grease. This facilitates the shoes working smoothly.
will do!
Thank you!! I need to work on my brakes for my 72 spit and you cleared up a lot of confusion for me. Thanks again!
Any tips on getting that last top spring fitted behind the shoes..? It really is difficult! Great video, thanks.
Would like to have seen the disassembly as that is the first thing to do for a newbie.
Springs are supposed to be inside the shoes. See Haynes manual.
Thank you great video bro!
The top tensioner spring is supposed to be BEHIND the shoes, the hold down springs are supposed to have a washer on both sides of the spring, and you are supposed to lubricate behind the slave cylinder and also where the shoes rub against the back plate!
the spring part was noted a few hours after the video was posted in the description, as for everything else, I've done it this way and never had an issue, but yes, lubrication always helps
Great vid man!! Very well explained..👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks!!
Wasnt sure if i should have made it an actual tutorial or like just one of the usual fun vids
Same brake system then Ford Escort 1.1 -1.3 year: 69-74. Very hard get ''force'' balance left and right side. Regards Tuomo Finland, Herald and Escort Mk1 owner.
you installed the top spring incorrectly, it should be on the rear part of the shoes, not on the front part next to the hub, look at your first shot of the shoes that are installed, at 1.36 into the video ,you can see those are correct with the springs on the back of the shoes, not on the front. Also the orientation of the shoes is important in relation to the direction of the wheel turning, at each end of the shoe the length of braking material is different, or in other words the metal part of the shoe is longer at one end than the other, so the longer piece of metal on the brake shoe should be the leading edge as the wheel turns so on the right hand side of the car the longer metal piece would be top right, and for the left hand shoe the longer piece would be bottom left, and vice versa on the left hand side of the car.
I mentioned that in the description and i went and fixed it after i posted the video, and as far as the orientation, im aware of that but this is how ive always seen these installed on spitfires
@@squeelznpeelz3135 hi, ah okay, if this is the same side wheel you show at the beginning of the video then you have installed the shoes upside down, if you look at your video at 2.10 you can see that your left hand brake shoe has the longer piece of metal on the brake shoe, the leading edge, when you re install them you you have the short length instead, your installation and orientation on the shoes is correct if it is the right hand wheel you are working on, can you see what I mean , look at 8.04, you are holding the brake shoe with the short end and it should be the long end there if this is the left hand wheel.
@@christoph404 okay makes sense. So in the video i remove the wheel and drum off of the driver side, however i only show the instillation on the passenger side. Its a bit out of wack but i basically decided to start the video once i had the passenger side dissassembled
And i filmed removing the driver side wheel after and put it at the beginning of the video to sort of show how it was when i first took off the wheel and drum on the other side. Im not very good at making these videos, i just figured id share my experience as i worked on the car and maybe it could be used as a point of refrence in some way to help people out, but i guess then in some cases its misleading, which i apoligise for
@@squeelznpeelz3135 aha, gotcha, I got confused as to what side of the car you were working on, but you got it right, no need to apologise.
The park brake cable attach is not supposed to have a bolt. It should be a clevis pin. If using a bolt, you should use a shoulder bolt and NOT a bolt with threads all the way up.
good to know, thanks! slowly I'm fixing all my mistakes and previous owners mistakes
The top spring should be behind the shoes not in front. It makes it a pig of a job but that's the correct way to do it.
true, I put on the video description about the spring right after I posted and went back to fix it pretty soon after I posted the video way back when haha
Great video!!
OY mate! You've got that top spring on the WRONG side of the shoe! It goes on the INSIDE of the shoe, as evident by the very first minute of your video. :) You join the 2 shoes with the spring, then hang the assembly on the backing plate.
I would also suggest, you NEVER use your center cap as a container for your lugs, all that will do is scratch the dog crap out of your center cap :) But thank you!!!
thanks,, good points! I put on the video description about the spring right after I posted and went back to fix it pretty soon after I posted the video way back when haha
Pity he didnt do it right !. The springs go inside the shoes which makes it much harder !
:( wish I did it right the first time as people will miss the correction in the description, but hopefully overall this video helped some people
/
The top spring should be behind the shoe as it was when you removed it, it pulls the shoes to the rear & cannot come into contact with the spinning hub. It's good practice to clean up the backing plate around the cylinder & add some copper or high melting point grease to make sure it slides side to side when the handbrake is used. If using a new or old brake adjuster you once again should grease it & put the shake proof washers on with the nuts.
thanks! I put ion the video description about the spring right after I posted and went back to fix it pretty soon after I posted the video way back when