Anyone who works or worked on vehicles REALLY enjoy your videos. Watching for a unknown shortcut or verifying they are doing it the same way. I like the knowledge you have that dealer mechanics do not have. People normally don’t take well used vehicles to dealers for work. Case in point, family member with 87 ford truck with intermittent crank with no start. Dealer worked on it a few times, no fix. They moved to a small town with a local wrench. Owner complained about still having a problem. After listening to the story, in 5 minutes it was fixed and lasted for years until it was sold. Mechanic unplugged a white 6 or 8 wire connector on the fender well and jumpered the fuel pump power wire that the connectors had corroded. No charge. Welcome to town.
As a retired machinist I, and most every other machinist I’ve ever worked with always used a center punch when marking pieces. Simply because it does the least amount of damage, and you don’t have to worry about marring the adjacent plane of the part that you’re marking. Just a bit of some constructive feedback. 😄
This was a fun series to watch. The more one knows about the mystery of pinion and spider gears, the more complicated you realize they are. There's nothing that eats up shop time more than trying to get gear patterns perfect. Fortunately in this case you didn't need to go there.
I was happy it was close. If it were over 5 , I wouldn't have been happy and had to do something. But 3-4 is perfectly fine. Thanks as always for watching and commenting!!
Kenny, thank you for making great videos and for taking the time to explain the details. Your honesty and integrity are evident. Ignore 'snarky' comments. That is just rude and uncalled for. That is a great tip to mark the caps as you demonstrated.
Good video. Never messed with fear ends. Learned a lot by watching the video. Love the way you share your knowledge about little things like cleaning the bolts before reinstalling and cleaning the threads. Good tips. Keep wrenching!
Love your videos Kenny. Did a lot of wrenching myself when I was younger and could pick-up a carrier with ring gear attached in one hand !!! If on inspection of the carrier bearings, you witnessed excessive wear, or pitting, I would've suggested to the customer to replace pinion, and axle bearings also, and with all new bearings and new carrier, the customer would have a brand new differential...
I consider myself lucky. I work in the aircraft industry and so have access to a liquid N2 parts bath and ovens for hardening and tempering metals. I'd have gone to work, put the ring gear in the oven to heat a bit, put the stripped carrier in a bath for 20 minutes, and the parts would have fallen together. Put bolts in just to align. Install in the rear end after things warmed up a bit, maybe another 20 minutes. Install the rest of the bolts, torque away. If I had to do it my my driveway, I'd do it just like Kenny did.
Kenny, I've been at mechanic work for over 30 years. Much of what you show I do know, but I have also learned some things. Keep up good work! We can always learn more from each other. Parker Automotive and Performance.
What I always do to make that differential go in easy is I put the left shim in, put the differential in and hold that with my left hand then start the right shim in with my right hand and a little love tap with the hammer. Then I’ll take the curved side of my pinion holding tool and place that on the shim and tap it the rest of the way in.
I like my little Harbor Freight hydraulic press and their ball joint service kit and add-on kit. The kits normally has the size adapter that I need to press bearings on.
Don't let the key board warriors bother ya. If they don't like what you do, they don't have to watch. Keep doing what ya do. I watch your videos every day.
Kenny I have used the green loctite and I told it is a traveling loctite. It will seep down around the threads of a fastener and this is from internet on that type of loctite. LOCTITE® green threadlocker is recommended for locking preassembled fasteners, e.g. electrical connectors and set screws, and prevents against loosening, rust, and corrosion. This wicking grade threadlocker is categorized as a medium-to-high-strength adhesive.
I've found over the years that warming the bearing up in a bath of oil works way better, that way you don't fight getting the bearing on... If you want it explained I can do that...
Interesting video, because you do ask us if we have any comments. I would like to make a comment on a couple of things you did, when hammering the second new bearing on to the differential carrier the first bearing fitted was now resting on the wooden block and having to absorb the hammer blows, you should have had a spacer between the inner race of the first bearing and the wooden block. When fitting the differential back into the axle housing, the best procedure would be as follows, fit the left shim, then the diff, then the bearing caps (but not bolted tight) then tap in the right shim, then tighten the bearing caps. When checking the backlash between the crown wheel & pinion it is a good idea to rotate the crown wheel and measure in four different places. It would also have been a good idea to have checked the thickness of both shims before replacing them, because if the right hand shim was a few thou thicker than the left one, it would have been better to swap them over as this would then push the crown wheel closer to the pinion gear and reduced the backlash.
Sometimes shims are also used between the carrier and the carrier bearing so that may also be the slight difference in the backlash. Since you didn't have to remove the old bearings from the old carrier it's hard to say for sure if they used them on the old one.
On older vehicles when you replace front rotors the rotors have new races very few people replace bearing and don't have problems with new race and used bearing
The new part had a slight difference from the original that showed up in the backlash measurement. That slight difference also changed the bearing preload. Would it have been a good thing to check bearing preload?? # shadetree mechanic
Have some wood blocks to go over the jaws on the vice to protect clamped surfaces. The unit is not round so clamping torque would be minimal. I am recovering from spinal fusion surgery so I have a lots of time on my hands to put my 2 cents in. Definitely no disparaging comments . I've never done what you are doing but am a mechanical person.
My dad taught me that while I had that axle grease on my palm packing that bearing. Race goes with bearing. Even new ones. He was a helicopter mechanic in Korean war. We never took a vehicle to a shop. Not once.
That special thread locker is more of like retaining compound? Like 609 from Loc-tite. I've never seen anyone use it, since it's a pressed fit, but can't hurt anything? Good job, Kenny.
Hey Kenny green loctite is made for press fitment it works great on bearings that have a slip fit it keeps them from causing shaft damage on electric motors. I would use when rebuilding Franklin motors who had loose tolerances so coat rotor shaft slip on bearing out motor top cap back on and let it set up. Motor good as new
Bearing races the inners and outers, so long as they are the same lot number, are interchangeable, and even if slightly worn will work. The reason you do not want to mix them is that they can be different size, as the factory makes the inners and outers, and measures them into different size ranges, and makes up the complete sets from them. so any from the same lot are interchangeable, and will wear the same in use as well. But a different lot will possibly be a different diameter, and thus you will get a small section that takes all the loading, wearing out fast there, and then after a while running with excess clearance. However for many applications mix and match is fine, I have done it often enough for non critical bearings, where the more worn side got replaced with a less worn used one, and it went on running for a good number of years again.
I know exactly what you mean by the snarky people not doing good work. I notice it's the younger folks who are so snarky - not just today but twenty five years ago when I was spinning wrenches last too. It's like these people see you fixing *that one thing* that they just recently fixed, so they're know-it-alls about that one thing now. But they've not done a tenth of the rest of the dirty work of this business. And being younger, will less all-around experience, their work comes back. It's like that in every skilled industry, from mechanics, to engineering, to medicine, to software.
My experience has been just the opposite,. There's a couple of well known Mouth wrenches that always Preface their comments with how their 40 years or more of experience let's them tell you that you are stupid for doing it wrong.
I think this is an interesting comment and an issue that is often overlooked. I flew a Hawker jet HS125 for 9 years ( as well as a few other types). I once got an a hawker out of maintenance and found a horrible vibration as I descended from cruise altitude into thicker air. If I slowed down the vibration went away until I got to thicker air at same speed. The third time I wrote up this issue it got repaired. I found out 3rd hand that there was a strip of foam that went from the back of the nose gear to about 3 feet behind my seat that they didn’t replace after mx event. Vibration is a possibility with anything that has motion.
Hey Kenny I might have missed it but did you torque the ring gear bolts? I’m not trying poke you but I was interested to see how you did it. If I missed it I apologize. I’m thinking about putting a locker in my 2000 7.3 Excursion in my barn. Already replaced both inner seals in the rear 8.8. Thanks I love your channel and learn a lot from it.
It’s called marriage of parts. When you take bearings apart. Green lock tite will take up 15 thousandth of a in for mounting spun bearing in race and it works good. Warring heat will set up green lock tite fast !!! Just saying. I enjoy your videos!!!
High mileage vehicles... The rear axle on my 1993 Chevy C1500 was leaking gear oil at the wheels. The thing had over 200k miles. So, I spend a weekend replacing the axle shaft bearings, seals, and pressing in new lug nut studs where appropriate. Although, it should catch your eye... Check out the diff retaining pin bold for wear... Mine was obviously worn from the spider gear pin and required a brand new pin bolt.
Using a steel chisel on the cast iron shims can crack or shatter them. If your replacing the side bearings your initial backlash check won't matter as the tolerances from old to new bearings and carrier are going to be quite a few thousands different which will change your backlash. By the looks of the amount of metal that has gone through that diff you should be replacing pinion bearings also. If you've rebuilt that many differentials you should of invested in a press for installing pinion and carrier bearings. And it's not thread locker... its retaining compound. The bolts are supposed to be replaced because if they are stretched they can bottom out as the hole is basically the same depth as the bolt length. Shims go in with the carrier not before. Or use a case spreader and the bolt will snap before it ever comes close to cracking that housing.
48:51 Is that a Mazda 6 wagon behind you? I have one 2004. I can see the chain spinning in the oil fill but must have spun gear on other cam. Idk shit about that engine. Think it's a Ford though. Wish I lived near you. Paid $2000 in2018. Drove to work 29 miles to work and back. Pretty dependable for the price. I can't work on it cause the back surgery 4 weeks ago. Can't bend over much yet.
It’s funny how you said these are not prybars, I remember seeing the available colours of snap on screwdrivers. Green, Orange, Purple, Red, Yellow. Spelled out as GOPRY. LOL
My question was regarding the moving coil. Is it installed and connected with both metal tabs facing outwards towards the rear cap and not behind correct? If so can it be installed incorrectly and cause the rear to get stuck lock?
What caused this failure? Was it low oil in the diff or other abuse. I noticed people who use the gear shift lever as a brake pad to change direction quickly. Throw it in reverse before vehicle is stopped. You can hear the the metal slamming together in drive train. I always thought that is going to be costly later on.
I just saw the metal tab on the elocker on the bottom side of the bearing but not on the top where the elock sensor goes I pushed mine forward until it touch. Did I manually lock it stuck?
I did not engage the locker before removing axles it was suppose to be an easy axle seal leak replacement. As I installed the driver side back on the side gear pop off it wasn't flush like the passenger side gear. There was a spring wave thrust washer looked like two separate washers. Now locker staying engaged, I tried disconnecting the sensor putting in neutral while turning and chirping tires still remains locked. Any help would be helpful. I notice there was a small gear with teeth on the driver side when I put the spider gears back together I installed the side gear with spring like washer into the gear with teeth as flush as I could but when I torked everything down once assembled I notice that gear assuming ELD coil ring was engaged about half way was that suppose to remain spin free and were the purpose of the driver side gear spring washers purpose was to push the gear from engaging while no power and engages with the coil when turned on. Getting ready to get back in it tomorrow just want to know what to look for . 2013 F150 9.75 ELD Thank you
I didn't know you can use a chisel to mark the differential's gasket surface with indentations. Doesn't that possibly allow a potential leak after reassembly? Why not just use a Sharpie?
Sharpie will not survive the solvent wash. The marks will not cause a leak, because they do not go the entire seal area, so still room for the seal, plus the gasket will fill them as well, as they are not deep.
As a ford master tech working in dealerships. Those clutches and steels were the biggest issues for those diffs. The new ford diffs are just as bad for burning up the locking clutches. Make a tight turn the diff will howl like a dog in heat. Many of weeks I had to o haul 3 or 4 diffs in f150 and mustangs there’s been tsbs for the clutches having too much preload for at least 3 years
As a ford master tech..... not to be an ahole but should know the elocker does not use clutches. It runs as an open diff till locked. Lsd uses clutch packs and ford had major issue's with the older diffs having clutch chatter due to improper clutch pack tension and clutch material. That caused the clutches to prematurely wear or burn up and why they started using friction modifier.
@@FREERIDE270 as a ford master tech some e lockers use clutches and you wrong. But I’m not hear to argue with someone who clearly has no clue have a good day
@@danokerr9929No argument here bud and I wasn't insulting your intelligence as you did mine! Was just questioning the fact your a ford master tech that claims have rebuilt multiple of these ford elocker differentials. You were talking specifically about this elocker design having clutch packs and as a ford master tech with years of experience on this elocker design I should not have to correct you for inaccurate information. There's to many comments with totally inaccurate info from people with lack of knowledge and no experience. So as for your comment to me having no clue what I'm talking about I'm not the master tech posting inaccurate info as people that are searching for information and knowledge pertaining to their vehicle read that your a master ford tech and assume you have a clue but clearly you have no idea. Have a good day.
I just had this done at a supposed transmission shop replaced the complete case and spider gears assembly plus the pinion gear and the rest on my 2007 Chevy Suburban 1500 LTZ. Now believe it or not I still got some kind of clunking noise coming from that rear end! What the hell can that possibly be unless they screwed it up?
Could be splines in drive shaft or worn leaf spring bushings, etc. Maybe watch from the side as someone goes from Drive to reverse and see what moves and makes noise.
Not for this one. It's an electronically actuated locker (grab the 4WD knob and pull it out one click), not a limited slip so no friction modifier required.
IVE KNOWN MANY A MECHANIC THAT JUST KNEW IT ALL, AND CRITICIZED EVERYONE, BUT WERE ONLY PART CHANGERS, NOT MECHANICS THAT KNEW HOW TO DIAGNOSE A PROBLEM.
Hey Kenny, the name I like to use for the "snarky" commenters is "mouthwrenches". They almost always disappear when called out and never have channels of their own where they can show their superior work. l o l
Ignore the wise-guy comments on TH-cam Kenny. Like you say, they’re the types who can’t fix anything themselves, including the armchair they always sit in 😂😂😂😂😂
Inexperienced haha how about a big reputable 04 Mercedes and he was "rigging" a electric fuel pump up because he said couldn't find the part. I got right on a site pulled Vin and had pump in and car back in one day.
Yep, great video. Save my money and get someone else to do it!! To much BS to try and do in my yard without a lift and all that!!!!! Loved the video tho.
While servicing autos discovery is part of the game. Knowing how to do the job is one thing Kenny has. Snarky people are snarky and seldom learn.
Anyone who works or worked on vehicles REALLY enjoy your videos. Watching for a unknown shortcut or verifying they are doing it the same way. I like the knowledge you have that dealer mechanics do not have. People normally don’t take well used vehicles to dealers for work. Case in point, family member with 87 ford truck with intermittent crank with no start. Dealer worked on it a few times, no fix. They moved to a small town with a local wrench. Owner complained about still having a problem. After listening to the story, in 5 minutes it was fixed and lasted for years until it was sold. Mechanic unplugged a white 6 or 8 wire connector on the fender well and jumpered the fuel pump power wire that the connectors had corroded. No charge. Welcome to town.
The problem you have is the person that left out the shim may not have put the caps back on the same side or direction. Keep up the good work.
As a retired machinist I, and most every other machinist I’ve ever worked with always used a center punch when marking pieces. Simply because it does the least amount of damage, and you don’t have to worry about marring the adjacent plane of the part that you’re marking. Just a bit of some constructive feedback. 😄
Kenny it's always great the way to take time to explain the entire process. I appreciate your time and efforts. Thank you
Thank you ! I appreciate that !
This was a fun series to watch. The more one knows about the mystery of pinion and spider gears, the more complicated you realize they are. There's nothing that eats up shop time more than trying to get gear patterns perfect. Fortunately in this case you didn't need to go there.
I was happy it was close. If it were over 5 , I wouldn't have been happy and had to do something. But 3-4 is perfectly fine. Thanks as always for watching and commenting!!
Kenny, thank you for making great videos and for taking the time to explain the details. Your honesty and integrity are evident. Ignore 'snarky' comments. That is just rude and uncalled for. That is a great tip to mark the caps as you demonstrated.
Good video. Never messed with fear ends. Learned a lot by watching the video. Love the way you share your knowledge about little things like cleaning the bolts before reinstalling and cleaning the threads. Good tips. Keep wrenching!
Love your videos Kenny. Did a lot of wrenching myself when I was younger and could pick-up a carrier with ring gear attached in one hand !!! If on inspection of the carrier bearings, you witnessed excessive wear, or pitting, I would've suggested to the customer to replace pinion, and axle bearings also, and with all new bearings and new carrier, the customer would have a brand new differential...
I consider myself lucky. I work in the aircraft industry and so have access to a liquid N2 parts bath and ovens for hardening and tempering metals. I'd have gone to work, put the ring gear in the oven to heat a bit, put the stripped carrier in a bath for 20 minutes, and the parts would have fallen together. Put bolts in just to align. Install in the rear end after things warmed up a bit, maybe another 20 minutes. Install the rest of the bolts, torque away.
If I had to do it my my driveway, I'd do it just like Kenny did.
Kenny, I've been at mechanic work for over 30 years. Much of what you show I do know, but I have also learned some things. Keep up good work! We can always learn more from each other. Parker Automotive and Performance.
What I always do to make that differential go in easy is I put the left shim in, put the differential in and hold that with my left hand then start the right shim in with my right hand and a little love tap with the hammer. Then I’ll take the curved side of my pinion holding tool and place that on the shim and tap it the rest of the way in.
I like my little Harbor Freight hydraulic press and their ball joint service kit and add-on kit. The kits normally has the size adapter that I need to press bearings on.
Kenny, thanks for the video and sharing your experience.
Thanks for sharing your videos.
Lots of insecure people out there to ignore.
Great job sir!
Good work and well exorb the education.
i always lay the bearing on a light bulb first thing in thg mornig and when needed they will about fall on !! 100 watt works very well
Great video Kenny. Could you show more on how the electric self locking differential operates? Thanks in advance.
Thanks for the video, Kenny!
Don't let the key board warriors bother ya. If they don't like what you do, they don't have to watch. Keep doing what ya do. I watch your videos every day.
In the videos that you have made public, you do awesome work.
Kenny I have used the green loctite and I told it is a traveling loctite. It will seep down around the threads of a fastener and this is from internet on that type of loctite. LOCTITE® green threadlocker is recommended for locking preassembled fasteners, e.g. electrical connectors and set screws, and prevents against loosening, rust, and corrosion. This wicking grade threadlocker is categorized as a medium-to-high-strength adhesive.
Yes I agree with you!
I’m from the uk, you do a great job mate dont let anyone tell you different 👍👍😊😊
Even though I will never attempt to do this repair, I'm fascinated watching you do it. Thanks Kenny.
Another great video, thanks for taking the extra time to film & load it!!
I watch all your videos and I learn alot keep up the good work !!
I've found over the years that warming the bearing up in a bath of oil works way better, that way you don't fight getting the bearing on... If you want it explained I can do that...
Interesting video, because you do ask us if we have any comments. I would like to make a comment on a couple of things you did, when hammering the second new bearing on to the differential carrier the first bearing fitted was now resting on the wooden block and having to absorb the hammer blows, you should have had a spacer between the inner race of the first bearing and the wooden block. When fitting the differential back into the axle housing, the best procedure would be as follows, fit the left shim, then the diff, then the bearing caps (but not bolted tight) then tap in the right shim, then tighten the bearing caps. When checking the backlash between the crown wheel & pinion it is a good idea to rotate the crown wheel and measure in four different places. It would also have been a good idea to have checked the thickness of both shims before replacing them, because if the right hand shim was a few thou thicker than the left one, it would have been better to swap them over as this would then push the crown wheel closer to the pinion gear and reduced the backlash.
Sometimes shims are also used between the carrier and the carrier bearing so that may also be the slight difference in the backlash. Since you didn't have to remove the old bearings from the old carrier it's hard to say for sure if they used them on the old one.
i also enjoy how you explain everything , thank you
MASTER TECH SIR...YOUR THOROUGHLY CORRECT 👍🇺🇸💪🙋
* you're
Great job,, your getting popular you now have more commercials than regular tv
Lol . I have no control over the commercials unfortunately. They are a pain at times . I'm sorry about that
* you're
"Green' or 'high strength Loctite is recommended for use on the bolt threads of the ring gear bolts according to most experts.
Hopefully this is something I will never have to do but it's good to know how to do it. Keep the good stuff coming buddy.
Hi Kenny, enjoyed your video, I like the way you explain the process.
I'm bad I see you did!! great Job!!
On that cover I would think titebond put on then let sit and skin up before attaching to the axle, less squeezes out. Is how I do motorcycle cases.
The no/low Life,s have too much time on their hands! OMG I'm a Legend in my own Mind!you tube heroes!
Hey thanks again
Ignore the slack-jawed yahoo's Kenny, you do great work and have a keen sense of logic when approaching an issue.
Great video very helpful 👍👍
On older vehicles when you replace front rotors the rotors have new races very few people replace bearing and don't have problems with new race and used bearing
All good. Good job
The new part had a slight difference from the original that showed up in the backlash measurement. That slight difference also changed the bearing preload. Would it have been a good thing to check bearing preload?? # shadetree mechanic
Kenny I'm not much of a wencher but enjoy learning from you.
Have some wood blocks to go over the jaws on the vice to protect clamped surfaces.
The unit is not round so clamping torque would be minimal.
I am recovering from spinal fusion surgery so I have a lots of time on my hands to put my 2 cents in.
Definitely no disparaging comments .
I've never done what you are doing but am a mechanical person.
locktite spread over flat surface between bolts may be to stop side play on bolt holes
Great video 👍
My dad taught me that while I had that axle grease on my palm packing that bearing.
Race goes with bearing.
Even new ones.
He was a helicopter mechanic in Korean war. We never took a vehicle to a shop.
Not once.
That special thread locker is more of like retaining compound? Like 609 from Loc-tite. I've never seen anyone use it, since it's a pressed fit, but can't hurt anything? Good job, Kenny.
I used it a lot with bigger gearboxes, and it works well.
it`s like a gasket, ( the green stuff ) i have to use it on elec. trolling motor`s that minn kota has you to use on the lower unit`s.
They can't match your experience and conviction and it riles them highly my friend, most of us know what we are witnessing here. " Keep Wrenchin' "
Having the right tools makes the job so much easier. Your investment paid off.
Hey Kenny green loctite is made for press fitment it works great on bearings that have a slip fit it keeps them from causing shaft damage on electric motors. I would use when rebuilding Franklin motors who had loose tolerances so coat rotor shaft slip on bearing out motor top cap back on and let it set up. Motor good as new
Have you ever used a bearing heater they work pretty well or boiling them in oil
Or just stick them in an oven
Bearing races the inners and outers, so long as they are the same lot number, are interchangeable, and even if slightly worn will work. The reason you do not want to mix them is that they can be different size, as the factory makes the inners and outers, and measures them into different size ranges, and makes up the complete sets from them. so any from the same lot are interchangeable, and will wear the same in use as well. But a different lot will possibly be a different diameter, and thus you will get a small section that takes all the loading, wearing out fast there, and then after a while running with excess clearance.
However for many applications mix and match is fine, I have done it often enough for non critical bearings, where the more worn side got replaced with a less worn used one, and it went on running for a good number of years again.
I use Auburn Gear. They make very good carriers. Just my opinion.
Do you ever warm the bearings up in an oven to make installation easier?
I place them in a container of heated motor oil
12,47 you are right Kenny they are SHIM remover tools🤣🤭
I didn’t see you torque those bolts on the big ring (whatever it’s called). Did I miss that part?
Enjoy your videos, sir!
Good morning Mr Kenny hope you have a great day
I have a press also put bearing in oven
I know exactly what you mean by the snarky people not doing good work. I notice it's the younger folks who are so snarky - not just today but twenty five years ago when I was spinning wrenches last too. It's like these people see you fixing *that one thing* that they just recently fixed, so they're know-it-alls about that one thing now. But they've not done a tenth of the rest of the dirty work of this business. And being younger, will less all-around experience, their work comes back. It's like that in every skilled industry, from mechanics, to engineering, to medicine, to software.
My experience has been just the opposite,. There's a couple of well known Mouth wrenches that always Preface their comments with how their 40 years or more of experience let's them tell you that you are stupid for doing it wrong.
the lock tite is for harmonic vibrations that may occur
I think this is an interesting comment and an issue that is often overlooked. I flew a Hawker jet HS125 for 9 years ( as well as a few other types). I once got an a hawker out of maintenance and found a horrible vibration as I descended from cruise altitude into thicker air. If I slowed down the vibration went away until I got to thicker air at same speed. The third time I wrote up this issue it got repaired. I found out 3rd hand that there was a strip of foam that went from the back of the nose gear to about 3 feet behind my seat that they didn’t replace after mx event. Vibration is a possibility with anything that has motion.
Hey Kenny I might have missed it but did you torque the ring gear bolts? I’m not trying poke you but I was interested to see how you did it. If I missed it I apologize. I’m thinking about putting a locker in my 2000 7.3 Excursion in my barn. Already replaced both inner seals in the rear 8.8. Thanks I love your channel and learn a lot from it.
They used to have a tag with the ratio and would say if it was a locker,it would read 3L 55 and the L would indicate a locking rear..
It’s called marriage of parts. When you take bearings apart. Green lock tite will take up 15 thousandth of a in for mounting spun bearing in race and it works good. Warring heat will set up green lock tite fast !!!
Just saying. I enjoy your videos!!!
High mileage vehicles...
The rear axle on my 1993 Chevy C1500 was leaking gear oil at the wheels. The thing had over 200k miles. So, I spend a weekend replacing the axle shaft bearings, seals, and pressing in new lug nut studs where appropriate.
Although, it should catch your eye... Check out the diff retaining pin bold for wear... Mine was obviously worn from the spider gear pin and required a brand new pin bolt.
Using a steel chisel on the cast iron shims can crack or shatter them. If your replacing the side bearings your initial backlash check won't matter as the tolerances from old to new bearings and carrier are going to be quite a few thousands different which will change your backlash. By the looks of the amount of metal that has gone through that diff you should be replacing pinion bearings also. If you've rebuilt that many differentials you should of invested in a press for installing pinion and carrier bearings. And it's not thread locker... its retaining compound. The bolts are supposed to be replaced because if they are stretched they can bottom out as the hole is basically the same depth as the bolt length. Shims go in with the carrier not before. Or use a case spreader and the bolt will snap before it ever comes close to cracking that housing.
I never witnessed you torque the ring gear bolts- did I miss it?
Oh, I’m dumb-I didn’t see the comment on the screen. That’s what I get for listening to this in the background.
48:51
Is that a Mazda 6 wagon behind you?
I have one 2004. I can see the chain spinning in the oil fill but must have spun gear on other cam. Idk shit about that engine.
Think it's a Ford though.
Wish I lived near you.
Paid $2000 in2018.
Drove to work 29 miles to work and back.
Pretty dependable for the price.
I can't work on it cause the back surgery 4 weeks ago. Can't bend over much yet.
It’s funny how you said these are not prybars, I remember seeing the available colours of snap on screwdrivers. Green, Orange, Purple, Red, Yellow. Spelled out as GOPRY. LOL
😂
My question was regarding the moving coil. Is it installed and connected with both metal tabs facing outwards towards the rear cap and not behind correct? If so can it be installed incorrectly and cause the rear to get stuck lock?
What caused this failure? Was it low oil in the diff or other abuse. I noticed people who use the gear shift lever as a brake pad to change direction quickly. Throw it in reverse before vehicle is stopped. You can hear the the metal slamming together in drive train. I always thought that is going to be costly later on.
I just saw the metal tab on the elocker on the bottom side of the bearing but not on the top where the elock sensor goes I pushed mine forward until it touch. Did I manually lock it stuck?
I have a case spreader I use for install and removal makes it easier I feel caution don't spread more that .015 or you distort the case
I'm assuming you torqued the ring gear it wasn't shown in the video. Thanks, great learning experience.
Did you Install new bearing races??
My educated guess is that the cross shaft was removed to pull axles for new seals.
Nice job Kenny. Is there a specified tolerance for backlash?
I did not engage the locker before removing axles it was suppose to be an easy axle seal leak replacement. As I installed the driver side back on the side gear pop off it wasn't flush like the passenger side gear. There was a spring wave thrust washer looked like two separate washers. Now locker staying engaged, I tried disconnecting the sensor putting in neutral while turning and chirping tires still remains locked. Any help would be helpful. I notice there was a small gear with teeth on the driver side when I put the spider gears back together I installed the side gear with spring like washer into the gear with teeth as flush as I could but when I torked everything down once assembled I notice that gear assuming ELD coil ring was engaged about half way was that suppose to remain spin free and were the purpose of the driver side gear spring washers purpose was to push the gear from engaging while no power and engages with the coil when turned on. Getting ready to get back in it tomorrow just want to know what to look for . 2013 F150 9.75 ELD Thank you
I didn't know you can use a chisel to mark the differential's gasket surface with indentations. Doesn't that possibly allow a potential leak after reassembly? Why not just use a Sharpie?
Sharpie will not survive the solvent wash. The marks will not cause a leak, because they do not go the entire seal area, so still room for the seal, plus the gasket will fill them as well, as they are not deep.
As a ford master tech working in dealerships. Those clutches and steels were the biggest issues for those diffs. The new ford diffs are just as bad for burning up the locking clutches. Make a tight turn the diff will howl like a dog in heat. Many of weeks I had to o haul 3 or 4 diffs in f150 and mustangs there’s been tsbs for the clutches having too much preload for at least 3 years
As a ford master tech..... not to be an ahole but should know the elocker does not use clutches. It runs as an open diff till locked. Lsd uses clutch packs and ford had major issue's with the older diffs having clutch chatter due to improper clutch pack tension and clutch material. That caused the clutches to prematurely wear or burn up and why they started using friction modifier.
@@FREERIDE270 as a ford master tech some e lockers use clutches and you wrong. But I’m not hear to argue with someone who clearly has no clue have a good day
@@danokerr9929No argument here bud and I wasn't insulting your intelligence as you did mine! Was just questioning the fact your a ford master tech that claims have rebuilt multiple of these ford elocker differentials. You were talking specifically about this elocker design having clutch packs and as a ford master tech with years of experience on this elocker design I should not have to correct you for inaccurate information. There's to many comments with totally inaccurate info from people with lack of knowledge and no experience. So as for your comment to me having no clue what I'm talking about I'm not the master tech posting inaccurate info as people that are searching for information and knowledge pertaining to their vehicle read that your a master ford tech and assume you have a clue but clearly you have no idea. Have a good day.
Lot of know it alls Kenny
Hey Kenny your right to ignore the wannabes lol
I took the cover off I am able to unlock with a flat head screwdriver but it engages as soon as I relieve the pressure, any suggestions?
I just had this done at a supposed transmission shop replaced the complete case and spider gears assembly plus the pinion gear and the rest on my 2007 Chevy Suburban 1500 LTZ. Now believe it or not I still got some kind of clunking noise coming from that rear end! What the hell can that possibly be unless they screwed it up?
Don't jump the gun,. The only rational way to say they did something wrong is to identify what IS wrong. Diagnose first.
Could be splines in drive shaft or worn leaf spring bushings, etc. Maybe watch from the side as someone goes from Drive to reverse and see what moves and makes noise.
Do you have to use a additive in the rear end??
Not for this one. It's an electronically actuated locker (grab the 4WD knob and pull it out one click), not a limited slip so no friction modifier required.
Hypocrisy shouldn't bother you sir while earning a honest life with hardworking people will always find some to say no mater its good or bad.cheers
IVE KNOWN MANY A MECHANIC THAT JUST KNEW IT ALL, AND CRITICIZED EVERYONE, BUT WERE ONLY PART CHANGERS, NOT MECHANICS THAT KNEW HOW TO DIAGNOSE A PROBLEM.
Have an extra jeweled unit your welcome to anytime, Kenny?
Hi, easiest to way to fit bearing ,is to put in an oven , heat to around 350 Celsius. Drops straight on
You forgot to torque the ring gear!
Hey Kenny, the name I like to use for the "snarky" commenters is "mouthwrenches". They almost always disappear when called out and never have channels of their own where they can show their superior work. l o l
Ignore the wise-guy comments on TH-cam Kenny. Like you say, they’re the types who can’t fix anything themselves, including the armchair they always sit in 😂😂😂😂😂
You only have to mark one side
Inexperienced haha how about a big reputable 04 Mercedes and he was "rigging" a electric fuel pump up because he said couldn't find the part. I got right on a site pulled Vin and had pump in and car back in one day.
Yep, great video. Save my money and get someone else to do it!! To much BS to try and do in my yard without a lift and all that!!!!! Loved the video tho.
@barrymcguyer6206 That is one way to deal with it. Thanks for watching & leaving a comment. Keep wrenching! Kenny
Don’t worry about the snarky comments. They are key board commandos and arm chair mechanics
Put ring gear in oven