Just changed a leaking master cylinder and I did the synchronised open-push, close-release technique which I think works better than your pumping, then open, then close technique. Worked very well, purged old fluid and air completely. No issues with sticking clutch.
I would recommend using a clear plastic tube for the fluid drain. This would allow you to see all the bubbles very clearly and when the drained fluid has changed color.
instead of socking out the old fluid from the reservoir, it is better to pump out the old fluid by bleeding it to make sure it is empty. then add the new fluid and do the pumping bleeding action to fill up the system. it is neater and simpler this way - with NEW fluid.
I read on a forum or some video where a guy was saying he could not get his clutch to come back up no matter how many times he tried to bleed the clutch the standard way... He said he ended up reverse bleeding it where he forced fluid into the bleeder valve, and just used a turkey baster to remove the excess fluid in the reservoir as it filled back up. My clutch has a delay in disengaging ever since I had the clutch replaced, so I suspect there is air in the line or the CSC. What I dont understand is how air can flow up from the CSC, through the CSC tube, and come out the bleeder valve when the tube is at a downward angle? Is there some kind of valve system in the CSC tube that allows the air to be pushed out the 2nd tube or something?
Been having a terrible week trying to do this job this week, every time my friend and trying to work on the bleeding the clutch no fluids come out of the bleeder, we tried close push method we even tried a vacuum and nothing comes out, is my csc broken ? Why when we gravity bleed it then we actually get fluid coming out. What will you recommend ?
I started clutch gravity bleeding on my 370Z every 6 months when I change the oil. Today the fluid stopped running. I closed the bleeder valve back up and pumped the clutch pedal twice. Then it started flowing better than ever and a lot of debris can out. I'm hoping by doing this I can prolong as long as possible the dreaded 370Z CSC failure.
Step 1 push the clutch all the way to the floor then put a rod between the clutch pedal and the steering wheel now you can grab the bleed it being careful not empty going to when you're in No clutch pedal stuck to the floor
I can't get the clutch to come back up. I tried everything in the video. Nothing works. Any ideas? I had to take out the bleeder valve because it was clogged. I cleaned that up and put it back in (at that point the system was empty from it all draining out) so I filled the system back up and continued to follow the steps in the video, I did this for hours and couldn't get the air out of the system and couldn't seem to build pressure. Also I have it in 1st gear. Idk if that makes any difference. Please help! :P
Does it work as good to suck the reservoir out then fill it with clean and drive it for a day or 2 then repeat? I did it about 5 times over a week because i had no one to pump the clutch and do it this way. The fluid did eventually stay clean in the reservoir so im guessing it pumped it around and did a ok job of changing it.
+Waugy 370z Thank you for watching! This would be a way of doing this without having the ability to totally drain it. Allowing the new fluid to run and cycle through to get the old fluid out and repeating may take more time and fluid, but also may be cheaper than having someone totally drain this if you cannot. 1aauto.com
cuz it's hydraulic fluid. the fluid is universal and it's only job is to depress the clutch into the transmission and the caliper piston into the pads.
+James M Thanks for checking us out. We do not have the exact mileage of this vehicle in the video, however a good rule of thumb is to check it every 6 months or so to make sure everything is good and leveled. 1AAuto.com
What about flushing the system by using a vacuum pressure pump as opposed to depressing the clutch? If it works for the brakes, wouldn’t it also for the clutch?
Bleeding clutch are different just because of their design that uses two cylinder so vacuum pump doesn't really work; actually vacuum pump can damage them sometimes because it just suctions and tears up the actual internal seal of the cylinder. Some service manuals usually have this warning written there. The extra 10 mins work is worth several hundred of dollars in repairs. Refer to service manuals before working on expensive components, unlike an alternator job you can just wing that.
there are 2 cylinders in a clutch system so vacuum bleeders don't fully bleed all the fluid and air so you'll just waste your time. it may suck fluid from the line but not fluid from inside both the cylinders. even damages some systems.
I've never had good results using a vacuum bleeder in trying to bleed brake systems. One undesirable thing that happens is that the wheel cylinder will often suck in air through the brake bleeder nipple threads. This air will come through and out of your bleeder hose as bubbles that you don't know for sure are coming from the outside or are trapped air in the system. I've tried to reduce this air coming through the nipple threads by wrapping the threads with Teflon tape, to no avail. I think the best kind of one person bleeder system is the positive pressure system, where brake fluid is pumped through the system from the master cylinder under pressure.
Do you have to get the little black tabs on the cap over the little clear tabs on the reservoir? I could swear the little tabs on the cap were over the tabs on the reservoir before I took it off? Thanks-
+Legacyyyyyyyyyyyyyy Thanks for checking us out! We would suggest bleeding both the brakes and clutch. Please let us know if you have any further questions!
I know this is an older post but yeah, keep up with changing the clutch fluid. I just say the hell with it and change the reservoir fluid at every oil change. So far i got 60,308 miles out of the shit slave cylinder they come with. I know its inevitable and its gonna go but why not make it last as long as possible right?
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I just purchased a 2017 370z MT, 10,401 miles. I plan to do everything I can to make sure I dont have any issues. This is a very helpful video!!!
Just changed a leaking master cylinder and I did the synchronised open-push, close-release technique which I think works better than your pumping, then open, then close technique. Worked very well, purged old fluid and air completely. No issues with sticking clutch.
I would recommend using a clear plastic tube for the fluid drain. This would allow you to see all the bubbles very clearly and when the drained fluid has changed color.
Is it possible to just gravity bleed the system, to avoid the problems of the clutch sticking to the floor?
Yes with stick....
Wow, what a beautiful car!
instead of socking out the old fluid from the reservoir, it is better to pump out the old fluid by bleeding it to make sure it is empty. then add the new fluid and do the pumping bleeding action to fill up the system. it is neater and simpler this way - with NEW fluid.
I read on a forum or some video where a guy was saying he could not get his clutch to come back up no matter how many times he tried to bleed the clutch the standard way... He said he ended up reverse bleeding it where he forced fluid into the bleeder valve, and just used a turkey baster to remove the excess fluid in the reservoir as it filled back up. My clutch has a delay in disengaging ever since I had the clutch replaced, so I suspect there is air in the line or the CSC. What I dont understand is how air can flow up from the CSC, through the CSC tube, and come out the bleeder valve when the tube is at a downward angle? Is there some kind of valve system in the CSC tube that allows the air to be pushed out the 2nd tube or something?
These cars almost always have CSC failure.
Which will cause clutch to stick down.
Good video.
Yeah the the stock slave cylinder is plastic cause dumb ass nissan wanted to save money.
Can this be done with the front of the car driven up on ramps or does the car need to be level? Thanks!
Been having a terrible week trying to do this job this week, every time my friend and trying to work on the bleeding the clutch no fluids come out of the bleeder, we tried close push method we even tried a vacuum and nothing comes out, is my csc broken ? Why when we gravity bleed it then we actually get fluid coming out. What will you recommend ?
This worked great for me thanks a lot!
I started clutch gravity bleeding on my 370Z every 6 months when I change the oil. Today the fluid stopped running. I closed the bleeder valve back up and pumped the clutch pedal twice. Then it started flowing better than ever and a lot of debris can out. I'm hoping by doing this I can prolong as long as possible the dreaded 370Z CSC failure.
Step 1 push the clutch all the way to the floor then put a rod between the clutch pedal and the steering wheel now you can grab the bleed it being careful not empty going to when you're in No clutch pedal stuck to the floor
I can't get the clutch to come back up. I tried everything in the video. Nothing works. Any ideas? I had to take out the bleeder valve because it was clogged. I cleaned that up and put it back in (at that point the system was empty from it all draining out) so I filled the system back up and continued to follow the steps in the video, I did this for hours and couldn't get the air out of the system and couldn't seem to build pressure. Also I have it in 1st gear. Idk if that makes any difference. Please help! :P
Alex Richardson did you find a solution?
Alex Richardson tighten the valve and just keep pumping and be sure to put the clutch fluid cap back on, don’t worry I had the same problem
Did you figure it out? I'm going to attempt this flush in the near future and want to avoid this or any other problem. Thanks -
Alex Richardson what solved it? Any updates?
Same and I've got 40k miles
If the pedal still sticks to the floor does it mean your clutch is bad? 140xxx miles
Does it work as good to suck the reservoir out then fill it with clean and drive it for a day or 2 then repeat? I did it about 5 times over a week because i had no one to pump the clutch and do it this way. The fluid did eventually stay clean in the reservoir so im guessing it pumped it around and did a ok job of changing it.
+Waugy 370z Thank you for watching! This would be a way of doing this without having the ability to totally drain it. Allowing the new fluid to run and cycle through to get the old fluid out and repeating may take more time and fluid, but also may be cheaper than having someone totally drain this if you cannot. 1aauto.com
Im gonna do this in a few mins if i take all of it out and put new one will there get air in the tubes? Or wht did you do so it didnt get any air inv
You can do it yourself theres plenty of video how to do it. I normally flush 2 or 3 times with clean fluid
Why do you put brake fluid in the cluth fluid reservoir
cuz it's hydraulic fluid. the fluid is universal and it's only job is to depress the clutch into the transmission and the caliper piston into the pads.
With 0,5 litres its enough?, thanks!
Sorry if I missed this part but how many miles are on the car and is this the first time it's been done?
+James M Thanks for checking us out. We do not have the exact mileage of this vehicle in the video, however a good rule of thumb is to check it every 6 months or so to make sure everything is good and leveled. 1AAuto.com
Do you have to have the hose and the bottle ? I can't get good pressure 😫
+SALTYPECKER Thanks for checking us out. Shop for high quality auto parts on 1AAuto.com:
1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
What about flushing the system by using a vacuum pressure pump as opposed to depressing the clutch? If it works for the brakes, wouldn’t it also for the clutch?
Bleeding clutch are different just because of their design that uses two cylinder so vacuum pump doesn't really work; actually vacuum pump can damage them sometimes because it just suctions and tears up the actual internal seal of the cylinder. Some service manuals usually have this warning written there.
The extra 10 mins work is worth several hundred of dollars in repairs. Refer to service manuals before working on expensive components, unlike an alternator job you can just wing that.
there are 2 cylinders in a clutch system so vacuum bleeders don't fully bleed all the fluid and air so you'll just waste your time. it may suck fluid from the line but not fluid from inside both the cylinders. even damages some systems.
I've never had good results using a vacuum bleeder in trying to bleed brake systems. One undesirable thing that happens is that the wheel cylinder will often suck in air through the brake bleeder nipple threads. This air will come through and out of your bleeder hose as bubbles that you don't know for sure are coming from the outside or are trapped air in the system. I've tried to reduce this air coming through the nipple threads by wrapping the threads with Teflon tape, to no avail. I think the best kind of one person bleeder system is the positive pressure system, where brake fluid is pumped through the system from the master cylinder under pressure.
Do you have to get the little black tabs on the cap over the little clear tabs on the reservoir? I could swear the little tabs on the cap were over the tabs on the reservoir before I took it off? Thanks-
no you don’t. i thought the same thing when i was doing mine.
no need to bleed it 10 times..2-3 is enough
Thanks for checking us out. 1aauto.com +Joaquin A.
My car has a shared reservoir for the brakes and clutch fluid. So should I just bleed all the brakes and clutch to do a proper flush?
+Legacyyyyyyyyyyyyyy Thanks for checking us out! We would suggest bleeding both the brakes and clutch. Please let us know if you have any further questions!
@@1AAuto Thanks for the fast reply!
Did you mean clutch fluid or do you actually use brake fluid?
Clutch fluid IS brake fluid.
Please don't touch your car. Take it to the shop if you're asking something like this 🤦♂️
John Oven clutch fluid is brake fluid, they have different reservoirs but the fluid you put in the clutch fluid reservoir is brake fluid
@@hostilityy Damn, everyone starts somewhere relax. That's why there are videos like this
Damb i put brake fluid in both of those
Pop the hood man 😁👍
Holy shit how long does it take ??
Is this a hydraulic clutch?
Yes, it is and it works similarly to a hydraulic brake system.
my car's catalogue says i have to change it every 20.000 km ibb.co/VW9W9Nr ... (but i never change it xD)
nice video thank you
i will change it asap
+Hi Adm Thanks for checking us out. Shop here for high quality auto parts: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I know this is an older post but yeah, keep up with changing the clutch fluid. I just say the hell with it and change the reservoir fluid at every oil change. So far i got 60,308 miles out of the shit slave cylinder they come with. I know its inevitable and its gonna go but why not make it last as long as possible right?
@@waugy370z8did it ever go? Seems like you had the right idea.
Stick to oush floor
People be careful I have no idea what he’s doing you don’t do that
So then, what do you do Fabio.
@@arodz714a 😂