How to Replace Every Fluid on a Manual RWD Car
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ส.ค. 2024
- There are many fluids that circulate throughout the driveline to ensure every component that moves gets lubricated, doesn’t overheat, prevents wear & corrosion, and allows your vehicle to be driven thousands of kilometres before require servicing. Replacing all of the fluids isn’t a difficult job, however it is rather time consuming, which means you have the opportunity to save yourself a bunch of money by doing it yourself. This video will guide you in changing over your engine oil & filter, transmission fluid, differential fluid, brake fluid, clutch fluid, and coolant as I replace it all on my 370Z.
You may choose to replace all of your fluids with OEM specification fluids, however due to my Z being more performance oriented over economy, I am opting for some thicker, higher performance spec fluids, along with some extra bits to increase reliability and longevity. The main fluids that I would replace for thicker fluid, if you have a 370Z, is the DOT3 brake fluid for DOT4 fluid, the 5W30 engine oil for 5W40 (or an oil cooler with 5W30), and the 75W90 diff fluid for 75W140.
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I truly hope this video has helped you guys out! If it has, help me out by liking the video and stay staying up to date with my ▼
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VIDEO CHAPTERS
(0:00) Introduction
(0:25) Fluids & Supplies
(4:07) Engine Oil & Filter
(7:33) Transmission Fluid
(10:03) Differential Fluid
(12:53) Clutch Fluid
(15:33) Brake Fluid
(17:57) Power Steering Fluid
(19:27) Coolant Change
(20:43) Final Remarks - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
You deserve so much more. You’re literally the Chris fix for 370z’s! Love your videos and super helpful and so detailed. Bigger you tubers don’t even make quality videos like these. Thank you!
Thanks for the kind words buddy! Be sure to share the video if you found it helpful 👊
I like these information videos you're very thorough and make it seem easy for anyone to tackle the project you're doing. And honestly you've been filling the void that Chris Fix has recently left. Keep up the good work 👍
I'm happy to hear that! I really appreciate it 👊
I’ll purchase the radiator no air kit once I get back! Thanks! Also been watching the Chanel for awhile now since you did your first detailing videos just realized how much you’ve grown! 300k that’s awesome!
Your Z is soooo clean! This video is super informative and will be doing a full fluid change on my Z next weekend.
Excelent video, I own a 370 40th anniversary and this month Im doing by myself the brake fluid, this helps a lot.
That's awesome! Good luck. Let me know how it goes :)
great video! and the coolant flush, there's a much easier way to do it: Nissan put a coolant bleed valve on the passenger heater hose. loosen it, slowly pour coolant into the radiator until you see fluid emerge from the bleeder. this works because it's higher than the radiator so air goes up and out.
This channel is just what I need as a 370 owner. I've already done oil, transmission and rear diff oil myself. But I need to do clutch and soon I'm going to be doing the Z1 brake upgrade kit (rotors, pads, fluid and lines) so seeing your brake fluid tutorial was very helpful. Thankfully I already have a vacuum bleeder, though mine isn't air operated, it's manual pump. Worked good enough on my motorcycle though! Subscribed!
Glad to help! Thanks for sharing 👍
This is an absurdly excellent video! Simple yet fantastic
Thanks Richard! I appreciate that 🙌
@@milanmastracci hey milan this was a really thorough tutorial. What is your opinion on the motul gear oil that you used in your transmission? It is notchy and grinds when cold doesn't it? Also it does a little big when also hot..
Power steering fluid is just ATF without the dye and additives. Redline PS fluid is more than fine for any G or Z.
Also, K&N filters are just as good as the nismo, and alot cheaper. I suggest using the HP-1010 filter, its slightly bigger than the normal filter. It gives you a bit more oil capacity.
Just Changed my diff and transmission fluid, First time doing work on my Z, Thanks for the videos. Longest part was getting confidence to work under the jacks. Plan to do the Coolant Change next weekend. Saw what happened with your Z, hope all is well, thank you.
Happy to hear that Alex! You'll be surprised how much money you're saving with doing all of the work yourself.
Thank you Alex, I appreciate it 👊
good point you made by putting oil in the oil filter upon install i thought i was the only one that did that my pops taught me that a long time ago put some in the oil filer and along the seal
That couple seconds of the engine running without oil is NO BUENO lol Your pops knows a thing or two lol
Thanks Milan! Gonna bleed my brakes and my total coolant system on my 1989 Mercedes 190e once I get back from ranger school!
Another brilliant video!! Love your Z. It looks amazingly clean. 👌🙌
Glad you like it! Thanks man 👊
U are going on the way to the top , to ChrisFix level , keep up the good work.
Very enjoying watching your videos
Glad to hear that! 👊
Your brake calipers looks so clean
It probably helps that I just cleaned them when I installed my fancy brakes lol
Don't use power tools on a G or a Z to undo the under shield if the car is old or winter driven. Youll just rip the metal tabs out of your bumper and shred the plastic where they attach. Ask me how I know.
How you know?
Piece of Bacon 🥓
How u know
Great how too Milan, vids are super professional now, thanks 👍👍👍
First off, awesome video, you are beyond thorough. I have a 2013 370z base, my rear diff is a NON-LSD. Should I be okay using the same diff fluid you used or would you recommend something else?
Exactly the video I wanted to see !!!!! Thank you so much Milan !!!
Awesome man. Great work
Thanks man! 👍
The diff and transmission fluid are not chemically the same fluid. The transmission needs a GL-4 approved fluid and the differential needs a GL-5 rated fluid. The Motul trans fluid is GL 4/5 rated but I don't feel comfortable using it, rather have a fluid that has a designated GL-4 rating such as OEM or Redline's MT85. But I am interested in knowing how its has treated you so far.
Everything else you're spot on for, from the D6 Redline, Motul brake fluid and the 300v engine oil. Your choice on engine oil is good only thing that matches it is Redline, which I'm surprised you did not go with, but either way both are phenomenal choices and you can't go wrong with either.
For the engine, just get an oil cooler. I grabbed a Z1 19 Row cooled with a setrab core, it works wonders. I don't track my car so maybe you'll need to go for something larger. These cars are known to run hot and I'm sure you've noticed that.
Last but not least, amazing channel. You go into detail and don't skip any steps. You show many that yes some parts are expensive, but if you buy the RIGHT parts the FIRST time, then you don't have to go back and fix things or worry while you enjoy your car. Keep up the great work.
Hello. After brake bleeding process and took my car out for a pad bed in procedure. I notice that brake fluid is seeping out of the bleeder valve. And yes I did tighten down all the way before driving. I have a '15 Infiniti Q50 w/BBK.
I have a '12 G37 Sedan AWD Sport model. I fucking love it bro! Love my VQ37. It may not be a manual trans but it is the perfect daily (minus the shit MPG and premium 93 gas it requires). More smiles per gallon though.
I did my front and rear diffs cause I bought the car with 128k miles. Both were pretty dirty cause I doubt they were ever changed. At work, we have a power differential fluid machine which you can just shoot the new fluid into the fill hole with a gun which makes it take a whopping 5 minutes to do a drain and fill on both diffs. I noticed improved shifting immediately. Still gotta do the transfer case and transmission itself (got the 7 speed auto). Transmission shifts pretty good still but I definitely wanna get all the dirty ass fluid out so I'm gonna do 3x drain and fills not flushing. It helps being an auto tech cause of the access to a lift lol! My diff drain plug looked exactly the same as yours even after 128k miles. All break-in metals.
Good video bro. I've been here since 30k subs 👌
That's awesome man! Must be nice having access to those fancy tools to save yourself a bunch of time. I noticed a good difference with the Motul transmission fluid. I can only imagine a car that has that many miles on it though 👊 Thanks for the support bro 💙
I’m not super familiar with the z platform but what I do know is that you should always use the recommended fluid for a limited slip differential because changing the fluid can change the behavior and characteristics of the diff and when it will and won’t lock up
It can, if it is a clutch type differential. The one that I have in my 370Z is a Viscous LSD, which means the fluid won't affects its lockup characteristics, other than when the fluid overheats.
Honda OEM parts are a must.
How do you like the new brake fluid? Any cons? Nice video!
oil filter pre-fill is nice to have not mandatory... your car will withstand 2-3 seconds on idle until filter will get filled with no damage to your engine :)
Some manufacturers specifically warn you NOT to pre-fill the oil filter. Because of that, and because it doesn't make much of a difference anyway, I never do it. Many manufacturers orient the filter horizontally making it impossible to pre-fill it even if you wanted to. If you use a high quality oil and run the engine to warm it up before draining it, there will be sufficient oil film adhering to all bearing and wear surfaces to protect the engine during the brief starvation period when the oil circuit is fully filled by the pump. People who are obsessively worried about the starvation during the priming period can pull the fuel pump relay and crank the engine in 10 seconds bursts until the oil gauge shows pressure or until the warning light goes away. Of course, this passes on the wear to the starter, ignition switch, and battery. 🤷 It's not worth it.
Nicely 🤙🏼
Forge alloy pistons and aluminum block make the magnets near worthless. Can’t go wrong but ig do it if it makes u feel better
should I be using 5w40 in the summer I feel like my oil looks thin every time I look at the dip stick .
AMSOIL makes a 75w110 that is perfect to bridge the gap between 90 and 140 gear oil, just FYT.
I use it in my Jeep but my Mustang seems happy enough on 75w90
I didn't know that oil existed. Thanks 👍
My 2018 370z has a screen of some sort in the reservoir so I can’t get the hose in far enough to extract the fluid out. I can only get about 10-20% of the fluid in the reservoir out. Any idea how to get around that?
The "racing" brake fluids with the high boiling point are more hygroscopic than the ones with the low boiling points, and will therefore have to get changed more often as their boiling point get's lower way faster than the normal brake fluids. Correct me, if I'm wrong tell me about your experiences :D
Scotty said those magnets are bs and that the filters are made for those reasons. what u think?
Great video ! A++++++++
How many quarts did you need for the Power Steering Method?
Im using the exact same bleeder tool with the green connector and my coolant is spilling out on to the floor!
Hey Milan great video. Jus curious on why you went with the 660 other than 600 for clutch/break fluid(read a lot of people using 600) and Where did you buy them at?
600 is slightly better
The motul 300v engine oil is a race oil. It's not supposed to lubricate for many kilometers bexause race cars use them one track and change them after the race is over. They're good for 2000-3000 kilometers then they need changing
Πες τα ρε πατριώτη γιατί ο Καναδός τα λέει μισά...
@@K_N_44 θα του πω να μου δώσει ποσοστό αμα ειναι να λεω εγω τις πλήρεις πληροφορίες 😂😂
hey man i changed my transmission fluid and it started to make a noise I was wondering what I can do about it
Quick Question: Do you still recommend these fluids to get the best performance out of the vehicle? For example I thought rotella was a good oil but then I heard motul is the best, so it’s cool that you are using that so it means your keeping up to latest best fluid(s)
Yep
every how many times change oir of each one ?
Hey man,
my clutch fluid is coming out of the transmission what’s the problem with it?
My master cylinder of my clutch?
Can i buy your old short shifter from the mini?
Nice
Thanks
Does this works in AT version?
Hey Milan, I am on the direction on changing my oil on my 370z, I seen motul has a variety of different kinds of oils for 5w30e for example x-clean plus, clean EFE, and other ones which one would you recommended to go with?
Hey Chuy, it really depends what you're looking to do with your car. If it is simply a street car, any of the cheaper Motul fluids will be perfect for you. If you push your car to its limits and want to ensure it can operate under more harsh conditions, opt for some 300V. That is what I am running on my cars.
Motul is the best!
I'm with you on that! 🙌
K&N hp-1008 is for maximas too
Is it okay to change trans fluid to new fluid even if it’s over 100k miles on it? Been told by a mechanic once that if it wasn’t changed after 60k it’s not worth changing. Something about friction material is already in the system which helps the trans work. Idk who to believe.
true
Hi milan. What kind of torque donyou use ?? I bought harbor freight but i honestly dont trust it on the engine i only use it on my wheels
Take a look at these: amzn.to/2DEOo36
Newbie question but does it make any difference if the car is automatic ? When it comes to the parts and lubricants. Thank you
Automatics use AT fluid…and that’s about it aside from the obvious lack of a external clutch system.
Most automatics are also checked/filled with the engine running but always check the service manual for recommended procedures.
Link to all the products??
YESSIR!
Thankfully I do t have to do this yet on my 17 mustang , since it only has 12k miles.
You definitely should have already replaced the brake and clutch fluid at this point though. It's a 2-3 year interval for brake and clutch fluid regardless of mileage because DOT 3, 4, and 5.1 are hygroscopic.
@@mannys9130 waste of money to do it so soon
@@Ricardo_C Does it ever see the track or high heat? If so, I would change it 1000%. If not, you should be somewhat in the clear.
👍🏼
Is rotella T6 a good oil or do you recommend the one you used?
Probably motul
@@Christian-ws3xs Motul bro thats why he bought it
Does your Z throw a CEL due to upgrades?
I did before I tuned the car, but not anymore.
Can I use the same fluids on an automatic Z??
All of them except you’d need ATF instead of gear oil for the transmission
would this apply to 1979/1980 datsun 280zx?
You would have to double check the viscosity of the fluid for the transmission and diff, but for the most part, yes this will all work 👍
@@milanmastracci thank you!
how many liters of engine oil are you putting in the Z?
thanks!
A hair under 5 litres, 4.85 without an oil cooler, and if I had one, it would be about 5.5.
admintuning recommends 6
Waiting for a mini video
I got one coming :)
that new diff fluid was interesting cuz it was blue
Autotrak 2 fluid is also blue. It's neat.
did it make your car a lil faster?
Yes
would this work for a 350z
Sure would brother! Basically identical process
VQs can take 5w40 with no problems, especially since in Japan it's what they run
I didn't know that was the recommended fluid for Japan.
my car wants your love. Pd today itst turbo stoped working (320d e46)
Oh that's not good :(
9:02 ... from the stealership.. LOL good one!
But....isn't the filter supposed to catch all the metal floating through it?
Supposed to, but even the small ones can get by.
How much did all this cost 😶
"Stealership" so true.
👌
the crushwasher must be the same one, not a copper one but an alu one
Why must it be the same one? They both perform under the same conditions.
@@milanmastracci there was told me that an alu crushwasher was for an alu carter
Chris fix 2.0
Filter mag bs claim or?
I'm curious to cut open a filter and see if there's metal in it 👍
Good job and thank you so much for sharing.
Regarding oil changes (once you change viscosity or even another brand of lubricant) please note that you must "flush your engine" otherwise you run your engine with a "mixture" that breaks the viscosity and your motor is not getting properly lubricated. (Every engine more or less holds at least 1/4 of the total lub quantity, please let me know if you wish further information on that).
So you either make a lub and filter replacement, then driving really slow and careful for about an hour constant if possible and then you make another change, alternative you can do the same and fill up only half quantity, let your engine idle for at least 20 minutes and then you just make a normal oil+filter change and around 2-3.000 kms just make another change and then your engine has not any oil "mixture" issues.
By the way (and please forgive in case I missed it) what happened to your Mini Cooper?
Take care
Def not necessary.
None of what you wrote is correct. Absolutely none of it. Filling only half of the total oil capacity and running the engine can do serious damage to it.
Mixing oil from different manufacturers or even with slightly different viscosity doesn't harm the engine; on the contrary, flushing the engine can have adverse effects. As long as one changes oil frequently and used a reputable brand, an engine flush is totally unnecessary. Also never run an engine with only half its oil, that could be destructive
@@apostmax My apologies in advance...
But technically speaking it's completely wrong!!!
Sorry to say but it's pointless to try to explain to you the reasons, as it takes technical knowledge (starting from the molecular form of lubrication "bearings" on each type of lubricant, additives compatibility and needles to talk about viscosity differences on full synthetic lubricants) in order to understand the reason.
I respect your opinion but keep it please for your self and your engines only.
@@mannys9130 I think you didn't understand what I am talking about.
Anyway thank you.
Oh yeah I gotta change mine loo I got 83k on mi 350z
Yeah man it will make a big difference 👍
If your engine is throwing chunks of "any metal that's floating around the engine oil" then your engine has a major defect! Paison, whutsamatta you?
I thought the thumbnail was a Chris fix video 😂
That's gotta be a good thing lol
11:49 ... don't you mean... "DIFFSTROYED" ? hehehehehe
No seriously, sooner or later you are going to have to make a video on Diff rebuild >.>
LMAO I see what you did there 👀
Whattttupppp!!!
Sup broski!
Chrisfix that you 😂
LOL
9:12 it sounds like you say “steal-ership”
Its 9:02
9:02
He did
dammit 1 second less and it could be 22:22
Darn lol I wish I noticed that before ahha
Only Z ppl do all this unnecessary stuff for a car parked 6monthes of the year.
You mean spend a couple hundred in fluids to prevent things from going wrong, instead of having to spend thousands to replace and engine, trans, and diff? Yeah, so unnecessary..
Its detailed video, but too much detailed :) You spend too much time changing fluids and servicing and not enough on driving a car :) Also 20 year old car is actually worth nothing, even if it is serviced or not :)
Until they are worth double their price 40 years down the line... and he kept service records of everything which makes it more valuable