Dual Piston Caliper Disassembly and Rebuild Procedure
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ธ.ค. 2013
- This video explains how to disassemble and rebuild a dual piston caliper taken off of a 1982 Honda CB900F. This particular caliper is used on many models of the early 80's Hondas and is also quite similar to many of the calipers used on other motorcycles. The steps to rebuild these other calipers will be very similar.
Perfect! Clear, concise, in plain language, with excellent close-up video of technique.
Thanks Richard!
This is exactly the video I needed to see! Cheers!
Thank you, very informative. My first caliper rebuild tomorrow. Can't wait.
Thanks for taking the time to do this video I know now that it's a job I will do myself.
Thank you
Thanks for talking to me earlier this evening and great video. Very well done!
Getting better at DIY mechanics, thanks !
Thanks Nick! Glad you found it helpful.
Tom
Thanks for this video, I just tried rebuilding a caliper for my bike and failed. After watching this video I know why, I didnt clean out the grooves for the seals properly and I didnt lube them with brake fluid. When I pushed the pistons in I had to use a vice because they didnt want to go in by hand, when I pushed them in, they made a "pop" and then went all the way in. When I took them out I saw that the seals had been cut by the pistons because the groove was still filled with a lot of gunk.
Again thanks for this video, hopefully everything will go flawless next time :)
Perfect, I have the exact same brake calipers too - thanks!
yet another excellent video. Thanks for sharing.
Nice job man,I'm fighting an old filthy beat up caliper on my 88 trx250r.nice video, I need a cabinet bead blaster!
It's a good idea to mention that the o rings have to go in the right way up! They are tapered and will only seal one way. I don't know if they are all like this so don't hold me to it
The O-rings for these Honda calipers have square edges and are symmetrical. There's no taper and they'll go in either way. There may be other manufacturers that have O-rings that will only go in one way, but I've never seen them. Kawasaki's seals (at least the modern bikes) are also square and symmetrical.
I have the same calipers on an '82 CB900C. I purchased the K&S 19-1001 seal kit, and I know for a fact that the seals are not symmetrical. The OEM Honda seals are square.
Early Suzuki calipers had tapered rings that had to go in the right way up. Confused me when I switched to Hondas....
I have a Honda Ruckus but I upgraded the front drum brakes to 220mm disc brake setup, the caliper is a RRGS 4pot ph80. Couldnt find any info on the seals but i can measure them, theyre about 2.5mm thick and one is 24mm and one is 26mm inner diameter
it worked!!! thanks man!!!
Good job brother!
Great video Tom. I'm about to rebuild exactly this caliper from an 85 Shadow. where did you get replacement rings and especially the pistons?
Thanks, Luke
Hi Tom: Great video (as usual). Any tips on getting the pins that retain the pads when they are corroded in?
hey i bought some calipers online and they gave me the wrong model but it fits my bike, would you know how to identify the calipers by any chance?
thanks for the video, you made my day. :)
You're welcome! Glad my video helped.
Hi. I have some Questions. 1) What chemical is safe and easy to clean out the bore once you get the O-rings out? 2) Do you have to use MARINE GRADE grease? What about regular waterproof grease?
Great Video.
I'm working with the exact caliper. 1982 Honda Cb750F.
Do the NEW Honda seals have a "particular" shape were they must be inserted in the correct up position? I know in some car brake caliper applications you must insert it correctly so the piston slides smoothly in one direction, but then the rubber seal flexes/twists in order to pull it back into the bore. I hope my question makes sense.
My seals are OEM Honda..just want to make sure there is no "up" or "down" shape in the seal.
Thanks
There's no particular orientation for the caliper seals - just make sure the grooves are clean and that the seals are properly seated in them. Some brake fluid for lubrication and the pistons will slide in with a little resistance.
You should join www.cb1100f.net. It's a great forum for the 750F, 900F, and 1100F DOHC bikes - lots of technical help, parts, and great members.
Best of luck.
Hi....the thick seal has 2 ways to insert, you must make sure it is inserted the right way...see Dell's Garage, he explains the issues
Great video thanks
excellent. Thank you.
So the part I really need to see is how you get those sleeve boots back On so easily. I set up one boot with the larger lip fitting into the caliper sleeves “slot ring” in the back, then I set up the boot on the sleeve before inserting into the caliper. I can get the sleeve to go into boot already setup on boot that’s placed in caliper but can’t get the boots inner ring to fit into the caliper sleeves lip - does that make sense? How did you do it so easily? It can’t simply be “the pick” that’s the reason
Thanks! I love your informative videos. I didn't use brake fluid but the red grease my seals came with. I rubbed a small amount around both seals. Will I be OK or should I pull them apart and rub brake fluid around them also. My manual Says to. I didn't because the aftermarket seals came with grease? Thanks I would appreciate your help
that grease is for the slides not the pistons. Anyways, its been 6 years I'm sure you figured it out haha
@@hugeslacker appreciate the response. It gave me a great feeling of the old days. The brake job went great. I rode my beloved gsxr another 6 years up until a few months ago. I sold it and bought a 2018 gsxr 1000R. I've learned a lot and had a ton of fun modernizing that amazing machine. I actually just got out the garage working on a new chain/sprocket on my new bike. Have a wonderful weekend
Thank you!
Fantastic!
Well Done!
I am having trouble getting the pistons back into the caliper body. The grooves are very clean. I have tried to red grease in the rebuild kit, brake fluid, new pistons. No luck. Any tricks and or tips.
Sometimes it takes a little extra effort to get them started, but they should slide right in if you have them aligned properly. If they're cocked a little, that will cause problems. If you still have problems, maybe I can help you out. Reach out to me via email through my web site at www.tomscyclerecycling.com
Thanks for the vid. Is it ok to sandblast my calipers & have them powder coated? Any tips before I start?
As long as the bores and passages are blocked, it's fine to blast and powder coat your calipers. I've restored hundreds of calipers this way with great results
I like to use my shot gun brass brush on my drill to clean the seals areas
where can i buy trusted o rings?
You mention getting new pistons but for an 80 era's Honda I haven't had much luck. Can you provide a good source?
Many of the pistons are available through K&L supply. Feel free to contact me at tom@tomscyclerecycling.com and maybe I can help you locate what you need.
Where do you purchase the seals? Is there an online shop? Im looking for new seals for my calipers.
What year and model bike have you got? I may able to get them for you otherwise, you may find the kit on eBay.
How did you get the caliper so clean? What did you soak it in? Is it okay for me to soak my calipers in soapy water?
I powder coated that caliper before I rebuilt it, so it's in "like new" condition.
Yes, you can use a mix of hot water and Dawn dishwashing detergent to clean your calipers. Use a toothbrush to scrub the crud off, rinse with hot water, and blow dry with compressed air. If you want your calipers to look brand new again, drop me an email - tom@tomscyclerecycling.com. I can make yours look just as good as mine.
Hi Chris. It's possible that the tiny release hole in your master cylinder is plugged. It may have been pure coincidence that this problem just started after you popped that piston, put it back in, and rebled the brakes. Use a steel guitar string or a #80 drill bit to clear that hole, then bleed some more and see if that fixes the problem. If not, contact me through my website at www.tomscyclerecycling.com and we can try to figure it out.
Not necessarily. Sometimes the hole will be blocked just enough to cause the brakes to drag and heat up the rotor. This is something that costs nothing to check. Worst case, you wasted a few minutes and will just have to move on to the next step - to possibly rebuild the calipers and master cylinder.
Hopefully you didn't see any more bubbles coming out when you finished bleeding. If you did, then there may still be air in the lines and that could cause dragging too.If you pull the pistons out, you can clean them with brake clean spray and polish them if there is any grunge built up on them. The only thing you should lubricate them with is brake fluid. Don't use oil or grease. If you're going to the trouble of doing this, you should do a full rebuild of the calipers. Remove and replace the old seals and while they're out, clean the grooves out. If any dried up brake fluid build up behind the seals, that will push them out farther and make it difficult for the pistons to retract when you let go of the brake lever.Keep me posted on your progress.
Good video. How did you remove the pistons?
I often get the pistons out hydraulically by using a master cylinder setup that I have on the bench. Go here to see how it's done: Brake Caliper Piston Removal
The best time to get the pistons out is while they're still on the bike. You can do it by removing one of the pads and then pump the pistons out until the remaining pad stops them. Then remove the pad and put a putty knife blade in place of the pad and pump them out some more. If you have dual calipers up front, you have to do this with both of them at the same time so that you maintain hydraulic pressure in the system. Make sure to keep an eye on the fluid level in the master cylinder since it will drop as you pump those pistons out. Once they stop against the putty knife blade, remove the blade and hold the calipers over a bucket. The pistons should pop out with your fingers and will dump fluid into the bucket. Kind of messy, but it works. Then get the calipers off the brake lines and into a bucket of warm water with some dish washing detergent. I like Dawn) This will keep the brake fluid from attacking the paint on the calipers. Clean them up good and proceed with your rebuild.
Good luck!
I know you didn't clean up that bore and groove to look like brand new only with a pick. What did we miss? Whats the secret?
he mentions between scenes about using a dremel
It is brand new, not the scrathed and dirty first one
It's not brand new, just media blasted with a super fine microblast media. This is part of the prep work I do before powder coating calipers.
woulden't you soak the piston seals in brake fluid for 15 min before install?
You could, but there's no need to and I never have. These days I actually use a special caliper grease to lubricate the seals before inserting the pistons. This won't dry up if the rebuilt calipers sit for a while before reinstallation.
is it ok to use after market pistons and seals?
Sure. If they are to specifications of your callipers
¿You could not lubricate the pistons of the calipers with grease and not with brake fluid? Un saludo desde españa
It can be done with brake fluid or caliper grease.
@@tomscyclerecycling8242 thank you very much greetings
nice
thank you for the in detail video! I have an 83 Magna with locked calipers and knew what needed to be done, but wanted to actually see it. I do have a question though, where do you get your replacement parts for these? (o-rings/pistons)
+Jordan Haga id seriously consider getting honda parts, aftermarket o-rings and boots are never usually as good. they just dont fit as well, inferior quality rubber
+Gruxxan lol should check time stamps lol bike is already done and on the road. I got OEM Honda seals from my local bike store and they went in very well
awesome! spring is nearly here, happy riding!
Be careful on the Honda deville if you push the piston in all the way it's really hard to get it back out because it goes flat to the caliper and you can't get fluid behind to push it out
how do you get the pistons out if they are froze in the caliper?
Mike, I've disassembled a few hundred calipers and many were badly frozen. This method has worked every time. Sometimes they take a little longer to break free, but they always do.
@@tomscyclerecycling8242the video starts out showing the pistons already out of the calipers. How would you remove the pistons if they were still in the calipers?
Mike, there's a separate video on my channel (Tom's Cycle Recycling) that details piston removal. Check that out and you should be good to go.
@@tomscyclerecycling8242 thank you I will
Easy enough
Spent a solid hour can't get the piston started,even tried tap runner mallet STILL wont start to drop in
You mean you can't get the piston back into the bore? Make sure you lubricate the seals well before you start the piston. Also make sure that the piston is squarely positioned before you start. It will take some pressure to get it going, but then it will pop right in, just like in the video. That was a "real" rebuild and the caliper hadn't been specially prepped for the video. You should have similar results.
+Tom's Cycle Recycling It was a pickle of a shit,Went back and this time I used a C-clamp,broke the C-clamp,then started beating on the socket that was in the puck with a rubber mallet again.At this point was really beginning to wonder if could get to come out when the bike was back together and all pumped up but it did ...pumped up just fine but you gotta stick a socked in the puck or you'll do some real irreversible damage
Did you lubricate the piston before trying to put it in? A little silicone grease or even brake fluid should make it slide in easily.
didn't mention that o ring fit one way round they have a lip
The O-rings for these Honda calipers don't have a lip - they go in either way. I've rebuilt at least a hundred of these calipers and have never had an issue. I'm not sure why ANY caliper seal would have a lip. They're internal to the bore and must allow the piston to slide freely.
Brake fluid on my calibers
Why is it that every you tube that I watch every one of you guys are wearing gloves? I don't get it. I have been wrenching for 40 years and have never wore gloves, what are guys into anyway? Rich
Rich,I wear nitrile gloves whenever possible to keep oil and grease off my skin. Your hands easily absorb solvents and petroleum products, which end up in your bloodstream. I knew a machinist who didn't even live to see retirement because he never wore hand protection. He told me after he found out that he had terminal cancer that it was a direct result of contantly getting cutting fluid on his hands. Maybe you've never worn then in 40 years and maybe you'll live to be 100, but why take a chance? Cleanup is a hell of a lot easier too.Tom
+Tom's Cycle Recycling Ahh hah, I knew there was something, thanks Tom, but me thinks I will keep um bare, to hard to train an ol dog. smile and thanks again. Rich