This guy truly knows his stuff when it comes to cargo box repairs. I noticed he's in Denver (where I live) so I showed up in person to ask about the details of the repair I needed to do on my Thule box. He talked with me about the materials, how to do the repair correctly, and general Thule talk. At that point I knew he'd do a way better job than I would so I handed the box over to him to fix.
I just repaired my Thule cargo box, cracked both side after hitting the garage sealing.Mixed ABS and Acetone bought on eBay, ABS stick pack of 30 cost £7.00 and 200 ml of pure Acetone cost £8.50 also for best result Fiberglass Reinforced Strapping Tape Transparent £6.50 from eBay. and a paint brush. Mixed aceton and abs, applied next day by brushing eve the crack, one coat waited a few minutes and applied the Fiberglass Reinforced Strapping Tape, after 10 minutes brushed two more coat of abs acetone slurry,I done the same inside out. Next day two more coat of the slurry over the fibreglass tape. Bonded perfectly and Perfect Result. Finest sandpaper and a bit of respray for perfect finish.
I made a new strut post for my thule mountaineer. I used a grease zirk a little larger that the original ball and shaped it down a little smaller with a belt sander. It was $3 at the hardware store.
This is an awesome video. I'm waiting to hear back from REI to see if they'll sell me their damaged Yakima Skybox 16 display model. It has a pretty long crack in it. Fortunately it doesn't extend to the edge but there is a slight dent. I think this process would work well. I assume it would work on a Yakima just like a Thule?
Someone once mentioned that Fiberglass does not adhere well to ABS plastics. Instead the suggested to use ABS slurry (ABS + acetone) for such repairs; except you're missing out on the fiber part and the added strength it provides. I'd love to hear your opinion on this.
He's not doing a fiberglass repair pr se.He's using fiberglass for reinforcement but he's not using bonding agent which is used to repair fiberglass Fiberglass mat is used for a variety of repairs for reinforcement. Cement, stucco, epoxy, tarps and other kinds of repairs where strong reinforcing is desired are some applications where fiberglass mat strengthens the repair.
Yes, we have. The de-laminating will not effect the integrity of the box and It's usually on the Evolution series. To stop the de-laminating we take a utility knife and score the laminate all the way around the affected area. This will usually stop the de-laminating at that point but just remember the laminate doesn't help on the strength of the box, it's just there for looks. Thanks for the question.
Im so mad. Hate my self. Can’t take anymore. Now my cargo box just cracked. Huge 16 cu feet sears x cargo box. Snow caved it in. What a waste. Should’ve put it inside my garage. Erie PA winters. Why did I ever move back!?
Hello; would love to follow but being in Europe would like to get any equivalent substance… there are some solvent cements but with some different tags like PVC-U; or CPVC or even PVC / ABS … can you please provide me with some hints … tried to repair my roof top box using fiberglass and some two epoxy set but it was total failure 🤪 … found Tangit brand with some range of the product and also Griffon … which of these and what product matches your solvent cement ?… thank you so much for your help 🙏👋
This is a tough one to explain but I'll try and give a brief explanation. I'll be releasing a video soon to show how this is done. Basically we use duct tape over the hole on the outside and then do the repair on the inside where the sticky side of the tape is. The tape and repair won't bond together. After 24 hours has passed you can remove the duct tape. We then do a repair on the outside and once more on the inside to give it a total of three fiberglass layers in total. Give plenty of time for each layer to cure.
We mainly focus on getting the box back on the road and reducing the amount of waste going into a landfill. For this box, all the repairs were done on the inside and as you can see, the crack is the only thing showing on the outside which is rather hard to see unless you're looking for it. We don't do any cosmetic work, just function.
I find I do less repairs on the Motion series boxes. They seem to be slightly more robust and never have issues with the locks. The achilles heal for the Force series are the locks. I currently have four of the Force series boxes sitting in my shop with lock issues. Most of them are operator errors but none the less they have weaknesses. My rental fleet are all Forces but we give very detailed instructions to our renters. When talking actual strength of the plastic, they are the same. When a box hits a garage or any other low lying structure, it doesn't matter how thick the plastic is, the garage always wins. Enjoy!
I just bought a mystery pallet that has this exact model in it with a crack/ hole right where the strut goes. I was wondering if this would work for that or if I should just throw it away which I might do anyways. Thanks
I see no reason to throw it out. You'd be missing out on the hundreds of dollars that you can sell it for after being repaired plus the aspect of not throwing away something until it can't be used anymore. Just drill out the rivets connecting the strut and do two layers on the inside, re-rivet the strut back on and you're done.
We have developed our own blend that has beneficial additives such as elastomers that help with elasticity and UV inhibitors that stop the UV rays from breaking down the repair.
Thanks for the response. Yes, the front strut can be removed with a large screwdriver but we drill out the front strut rivets more for the re-attaching process. There are two reasons we drill it out. One is there a reinforcing bar on the inside that doesn't allow us to put the clamp on the backside of the hinge. The other is, the front lip is rolled over and when a clamp is applied, the leading edge of the plastic lip can't support the pressure and is very likely to crack. Once you've worked with rivets, they are simple and hassle free to drill out and install.
All boxes us a 3/16" gauge (size 6) and the length that covers most situations is called "64" which has about 11mm of usable shaft. If in doubt, go longer.
Our kit is unlike the one you mentioned. Our product actually chemically welds the fiberglass to the cargo box and is not a two part epoxy that is considered a surface band-aid. The chemical weld actually slightly melts the cargo box on the surface and then the fiberglass is applied and then another coat on top, as shown in the video. It ends up physically being part of the cargo box and can't be removed with a chisel without outright damaging the box. The fiberglass gives it the structural support it needs under any condition. When the Bondo repair is subjected to twisting and turning, which happens when the cargo box is opened and closed, especially during very cold or hot conditions, it will either crack or start to peel off. Thank you for your input.
I've had mixed results with painting cargo boxes. Usually after I give it a try, I wish I would have left it alone but then again painting isn't my strong suit.
Correct, It was damaged in shipping and rather than making a warranty claim, which would require us to cut it in half and throw it in a dumpster, we repaired it and made it stronger yet flexible. Granted I couldn't sell it for new price but had no problem selling for 10% off. Are you repairing a box?
@@bluelude2001 It's a fine line between making them durable and not making them weigh 100 pounds. Through my experience, 80% of the damage that we see is by hitting low items like garages. One trick that might help you from experiencing that is to put your garage door opener in the glove box whenever the box is on the roof. If the opener is built in, use a brightly colored piece of tape over the button when the box is up there. Enjoy!
@@melvinsolomon6709 There is a full view of the damage within the first few minutes of the video and an overview of the repair at the end. I don't feel like I answered your question. Can you elaborate on what you'd like to see.
This guy truly knows his stuff when it comes to cargo box repairs. I noticed he's in Denver (where I live) so I showed up in person to ask about the details of the repair I needed to do on my Thule box. He talked with me about the materials, how to do the repair correctly, and general Thule talk. At that point I knew he'd do a way better job than I would so I handed the box over to him to fix.
Im based in the uk. Trying to repair my box using ur method. Just waiting for my abs cement to arrive. Ur video has been very helpful.
Hello, I live in the UK, where did you buy it?
I used this process to repair some cracks in the base of my Thule. The process is easy to do and results in a strong yet flexible repair.
Thank you!! My box repair went perfectly.
I just repaired my Thule cargo box, cracked both side after hitting the garage sealing.Mixed ABS and Acetone bought on eBay, ABS stick pack of 30 cost £7.00 and 200 ml of pure Acetone cost £8.50 also for best result Fiberglass Reinforced Strapping Tape Transparent £6.50 from eBay. and a paint brush. Mixed aceton and abs, applied next day by brushing eve the crack, one coat waited a few minutes and applied the Fiberglass Reinforced Strapping Tape, after 10 minutes brushed two more coat of abs acetone slurry,I done the same inside out. Next day two more coat of the slurry over the fibreglass tape. Bonded perfectly and Perfect Result. Finest sandpaper and a bit of respray for perfect finish.
I made a new strut post for my thule mountaineer. I used a grease zirk a little larger that the original ball and shaped it down a little smaller with a belt sander. It was $3 at the hardware store.
Very well done and nice soothing voice
Good job.
This is an awesome video. I'm waiting to hear back from REI to see if they'll sell me their damaged Yakima Skybox 16 display model. It has a pretty long crack in it. Fortunately it doesn't extend to the edge but there is a slight dent. I think this process would work well. I assume it would work on a Yakima just like a Thule?
Someone once mentioned that Fiberglass does not adhere well to ABS plastics. Instead the suggested to use ABS slurry (ABS + acetone) for such repairs; except you're missing out on the fiber part and the added strength it provides. I'd love to hear your opinion on this.
He's not doing a fiberglass repair pr se.He's using fiberglass for reinforcement but he's not using bonding agent which is used to repair fiberglass Fiberglass mat is used for a variety of repairs for reinforcement. Cement, stucco, epoxy, tarps and other kinds of repairs where strong reinforcing is desired are some applications where fiberglass mat strengthens the repair.
Wow, you make that look easy. Excellent video but I think with an expensive box like that I’d prefer to let you the pro’s fix it. 😂
Would something like ASA solution in acetone maybe with addition of PVC for elasticity make a good "cement"?
Would you not do a new paint on the outside to hide the crack? Using PVC primer or something??
Have you ever encountered one of these cargo boxes that has extensive bubbling on the plastic top surface, almost like the finish is de-laminating?
Yes, we have. The de-laminating will not effect the integrity of the box and It's usually on the Evolution series. To stop the de-laminating we take a utility knife and score the laminate all the way around the affected area. This will usually stop the de-laminating at that point but just remember the laminate doesn't help on the strength of the box, it's just there for looks. Thanks for the question.
Im so mad. Hate my self. Can’t take anymore. Now my cargo box just cracked. Huge 16 cu feet sears x cargo box. Snow caved it in. What a waste. Should’ve put it inside my garage. Erie PA winters. Why did I ever move back!?
Hello; would love to follow but being in Europe would like to get any equivalent substance… there are some solvent cements but with some different tags like PVC-U; or CPVC or even PVC / ABS … can you please provide me with some hints … tried to repair my roof top box using fiberglass and some two epoxy set but it was total failure 🤪 … found Tangit brand with some range of the product and also Griffon … which of these and what product matches your solvent cement ?… thank you so much for your help 🙏👋
Great video. How would you repair a 1-1 1/2 inch hole on the box?
This is a tough one to explain but I'll try and give a brief explanation. I'll be releasing a video soon to show how this is done. Basically we use duct tape over the hole on the outside and then do the repair on the inside where the sticky side of the tape is. The tape and repair won't bond together. After 24 hours has passed you can remove the duct tape. We then do a repair on the outside and once more on the inside to give it a total of three fiberglass layers in total. Give plenty of time for each layer to cure.
Which wire do you recommend? Thanks for the great video.
You can use wire that they sell at the big box stores. It's by the re-rod in the area where they sell cement bags.
I found some 18-gauge hobby wire at Home Depot that was cheap and worked great@@robertzeien1895 , thanks.
Interesting. How do you salvage/polish the exterior?
We mainly focus on getting the box back on the road and reducing the amount of waste going into a landfill. For this box, all the repairs were done on the inside and as you can see, the crack is the only thing showing on the outside which is rather hard to see unless you're looking for it. We don't do any cosmetic work, just function.
Good work. Based on your experience, is the Force XT stronger (or less fragile) than the Motion XT ?
I find I do less repairs on the Motion series boxes. They seem to be slightly more robust and never have issues with the locks. The achilles heal for the Force series are the locks. I currently have four of the Force series boxes sitting in my shop with lock issues. Most of them are operator errors but none the less they have weaknesses. My rental fleet are all Forces but we give very detailed instructions to our renters. When talking actual strength of the plastic, they are the same. When a box hits a garage or any other low lying structure, it doesn't matter how thick the plastic is, the garage always wins. Enjoy!
@@robertzeien1895 Thanks you for sharing, I appreciate your valuable insights.
Could you use the same method for holes the size of a mailing label?
Yes. I plan on putting out a video soon covering this subject. I wrote about this a little bit in @axel6176's comment.
@@robertzeien1895 thanks!
I just bought a mystery pallet that has this exact model in it with a crack/ hole right where the strut goes. I was wondering if this would work for that or if I should just throw it away which I might do anyways. Thanks
I see no reason to throw it out. You'd be missing out on the hundreds of dollars that you can sell it for after being repaired plus the aspect of not throwing away something until it can't be used anymore. Just drill out the rivets connecting the strut and do two layers on the inside, re-rivet the strut back on and you're done.
Are you doing the wired areas right after the unwired areas or 24 hours later?
We let the repair set for 24 hours then cut out the wire.
Why didnt you just pop out the hinges frm the Lid Lifter instead of drilling out the rivets?
he explained it in the video, that sometimes you can damage the metal post and break it off. there is no replacement part for that apparently.
Why not use plastic welder kit? then place stromh fiber patches after on the welded crack…
What type of solvent cement are you using? For abs or pvc?
We have developed our own blend that has beneficial additives such as elastomers that help with elasticity and UV inhibitors that stop the UV rays from breaking down the repair.
@@robertzeien1895 do you sell just solvent cement?
The struts can be popped off. Don't need to drill the rivets. . Eases off with a screwdriver
Thanks for the response. Yes, the front strut can be removed with a large screwdriver but we drill out the front strut rivets more for the re-attaching process. There are two reasons we drill it out. One is there a reinforcing bar on the inside that doesn't allow us to put the clamp on the backside of the hinge. The other is, the front lip is rolled over and when a clamp is applied, the leading edge of the plastic lip can't support the pressure and is very likely to crack. Once you've worked with rivets, they are simple and hassle free to drill out and install.
Could you share what rivets did you use for Motion XT
All boxes us a 3/16" gauge (size 6) and the length that covers most situations is called "64" which has about 11mm of usable shaft. If in doubt, go longer.
1x(6/22/24)…….13:00….
Why is this kit $90 when you can get one from Bondo for $20?
Our kit is unlike the one you mentioned. Our product actually chemically welds the fiberglass to the cargo box and is not a two part epoxy that is considered a surface band-aid. The chemical weld actually slightly melts the cargo box on the surface and then the fiberglass is applied and then another coat on top, as shown in the video. It ends up physically being part of the cargo box and can't be removed with a chisel without outright damaging the box. The fiberglass gives it the structural support it needs under any condition. When the Bondo repair is subjected to twisting and turning, which happens when the cargo box is opened and closed, especially during very cold or hot conditions, it will either crack or start to peel off. Thank you for your input.
What about oatey abs cement? Mammoth mend is three times the price of Oatey
Can you paint the box to cover the crack that is still visible?
I've had mixed results with painting cargo boxes. Usually after I give it a try, I wish I would have left it alone but then again painting isn't my strong suit.
Good repair. That box looked brand new. Did it break during shipping?
Correct, It was damaged in shipping and rather than making a warranty claim, which would require us to cut it in half and throw it in a dumpster, we repaired it and made it stronger yet flexible. Granted I couldn't sell it for new price but had no problem selling for 10% off. Are you repairing a box?
@@robertzeien1895 No, just bought one. Never owned a roof box. They do seem fragile though.
@@bluelude2001 It's a fine line between making them durable and not making them weigh 100 pounds. Through my experience, 80% of the damage that we see is by hitting low items like garages. One trick that might help you from experiencing that is to put your garage door opener in the glove box whenever the box is on the roof. If the opener is built in, use a brightly colored piece of tape over the button when the box is up there. Enjoy!
Is there any way I can see the picture of the cracks?
@@melvinsolomon6709 There is a full view of the damage within the first few minutes of the video and an overview of the repair at the end. I don't feel like I answered your question. Can you elaborate on what you'd like to see.