@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics my only question would be how come both sides showed rich? I understand bank 1 would show rich from a biased o2. But when you first checked the scan data both banks shows negative trims and high o2 voltage
i learnt long ago , if in doubt ask someone else , who might know more or different? never be scared to ask. i worked in a m/c workshop where they had pushed a bike in and out for 6 months , made 1 phone call , he put me straight , bike running inside 30 mins from start of job.
Don's a smart guy, after 7 prior attempts at different shops he gave you a call, with your help, not only did the car get fixed Don also gained some of your knowledge first hand. Obviously Don must have seen Pine Hollow videos on here.
@@kellyr9388 parts slam and jam to get book-time or spend as little time as possible. A busy shop just cannot handle the tougher cases and should always sub it out, but that costs more and they may end u getting shafted on the job.
Tells you a lot when good used OEM parts work better than new after market parts. Thanks again Ivan for your amazing diagnostic skills. See ya next year.
Your ability to stay cool under stressful conditions is remarkable. You never get frazzled and stay on your path when troubleshooting a problem. Great work, and on the road even!
Been there and done that, on my own car... Car ran like death and even backfired to the point that it blew up the muffler. It was worst on rainy days. Normally, I would have checked the wires, but they were six month old $60.00 top of the line 12mm copper core racing wires. So I was talking to a friend who says "Change the wires." I insisted, "No they are new..." and we got stuck in a loop. I finally relented and put the old wires back in and the problem was fixed. The sad part is that if it had been anyone else's car, I would have diagnosed the problem in 5 minutes... but I simply refused to believe that I threw $60.00 in the trash on junk super high end aftermarket parts that I had custom fitted. Seriously, all I had to do was take a garden hose and mist the engine while it was running and watch the lightning show in the dark. It's a free diag I did many times, but somehow I couldn't bring myself to even do it. There's nothing worse than getting stuck on stupid. And nothing better than getting a second opinion when it happens to you.
So basically they "saved" money by getting the cheapest parts they could find, then spent way more money with 7 shops, then this latest shop and PHAD. I'm glad the last shop had the sense to get some additional help. Cheap parts are just failure. And we're awash in container loads of them.
I got my first taste of aftermarket parts when I put new wires in my civic and went for a drive. 15m later there was a hard miss. New wire boot was arcing in the plug well. Put the OE's on and never touched them again. My brother had a similar issue with his wife's car, a week after he did a diy tune up it was missing and I found it arcing between a coil post to a bolt. so I tried to bake it into all family members ever since (especially since finding Ivan!) that aftermarket parts are just the sh1ttiest thing ever, don't touch them if you want reliability. And don't cheap out because Amazon and eBay are full of counterfeit OEM parts too!
@@volvo09 I usually just get the parts from dealers who sell cheaper online. You get first quality parts, about 30% off list, and you know they'll probably last the life of the car.
Ivan, I said it before and I'll say it again, you are a rock star when it comes to auto diagnostics. You may very well be the best in the business on TH-cam in this field. You remain focused and in a systematic mode which I think helps you narrow things down until you reach the proper conclusion.
@@MTTech they both have their strengths. Ivan has had formula training. I believe he's an EE. Eric, has had some formal training, and a lot of training by hard knocks.
many of the popular and oem plugs for that truck were around 0.060" gap. I think the factory ones were the same. there are other plugs for it with other gap sizes too.
@@throttlebottle5906 Hi, yes sounds right but the gaps on the removed plugs looked at least double that, that's a problem, many people ignore plugs and look for more complicated reasons for faults, cheers
I learned from my dad when to replace the plugs, wires and cap and rotor. When it starts misfiring going up a grade, then the spark is either not strong enough or jumping where it's not supposed to. That was in 1975 and I think you showed us it is still the same today even with all the electronics. Thanks Ivan, I enjoy your videos and Happy New Year to you and your family.
Give it a little time, will be back with same problem. I still say possible warped intake manifold, 5.3 known for that. Also known for failing engine coolant temperature sensor... both trick ECM to over fuel...wipes out plugs and o2 sensors and cats.
Never seen a 5.3 with a warped intake manifold yet but I have seen plenty of intake manifolds leaking. A lot of times people will get some knock sensor codes, chuck some cheapo knock sensors at it and not replace the intake manifold gasket, then they'll reef down on those 8mm bolts (torque spec is 89 inch lbs) and then they'll get a bunch of lean codes and rough idle. Seen that a bunch
Awesome Ivan!!!...I'm fixing to enroll in school..I've been doing this kind of work my whole life..I just need to catch up with the diagnostics equipment..I hope you don't mind if I use and share you with my classmates...you rock man!!👍👍😎
I went to school at 50 for the same reason bro. I learned a lot of other stuff as well. Almost ten years later and I'm still working on cars. Good luck man. I hope it works out for you as good as it did for me.
Great move. Let me ask you what school? I like to get some extra education but don't want to start at the bottom nor do I want over priced no education.
I agreed with everything you said in this video but at the end when you found and changed that offbrand O2 sensor plus you change the plugs I would’ve done one or the other first even though my first reaction was the O2 sensor is the issue I always find out who makes the OE o2 senors for any car and we will not put in anything about that, we have chased our own tails too many times and the Napa professional website and Autozone for us mechanics will let you know if this is aftermarket or or OE brand, Great video and information. Once you saw the weird O2 sensor you probably could’ve swapped them from side to side since you already have them both out and without cleaning up the plugs and seen a transfer to bank 2! But I’ve been wrong before and I’m still learning because of guys like you👍🏻
I’ve seen a bad fuel pressure regulator cause similar rich running conditions. They leak then it sucks fuel in through the vacuum line. You can pull the vacuum line off and make sure there’s no fuel inside.
@@brainndamage It took me 16,000 miles to figure out the fuel pressure reg was bad (it fell apart). It was a backfire that led me to it. In the video he said that gas in the oil caused hard start, not that it was causing rich running.
Good points! I had a Ford 3.9L (2000 Windstar) that had misfires under very specific load cases. Turns out the after market Bosch Platinum plugs were the major cause. Under warranty the Ford dealer would replace only one plug and give it back to me, each time solving the worst case cylinder for misfire. The mechanic said he was not allowed to replace all plugs unless the cylinder showed a misfire while under observation. Ford paid a lot of rack time to simply diagnose six incompatible plugs.
Awesome diagnosis and fix Ivan! Always did explain to clients that its cheaper in the long run to get original parts, but always gave them the choice on what to purchase with certain caveats. Bet on the clogged exhaust from the first part, but with the back pressure test proved me wrong. Thanks for taking us along the diagnosis and fix! Learned a lot and that Don made the right call to invite you over. Cheers!
Based on the evidence, I didn't believe that cats had anything to do with it. A clogged converter will have much more obvious symptoms and performance problems, and will set different codes.
I agree with “V”. Don is a cool (& smart) guy to not only call you, but participate in the diag. He is learning along with all of us. Everyone can’t know everything. Beat to know when to call in someone with more knowledge that we have. No shame in that. Plus customer is going to love that his shop fixed the truck! It is also funny how replacing “new” parts with used fixed some of the problems. Think how much we all learned from Keith on Staten Island.
After market crap strikes again! Spent a couple decades working in GM Dealerships and I can't tell you the number of times a car or truck started out with a simple part failure and aftermarket parts ended up causing many many more problems. Not worth the time, use OEM every time and you will have happier clients and techs!
Ivan you are the Grand Wizard of Diagnostic Troubleshooting...Always buy OEM Electronic Parts or find out who manufacturered them (Hitachi, Denso, NGK, Motorcraft,AC Delco,etc..). Just BEWARE, there's a lot of Counterfeit Parts by third party sellers out there.
Awesome case study and good for Don for asking for help with that basket case. It's sad when you have to take a bunch of new parts off and replace them we with used ones to fix the truck. I imagine the customer will make the rounds in the New Year and ask for his money back at different shops. Happy New Year.
Wow, sensors, plugs and wires were bad? Unbelievable!! At least it's all back oem!! That's great job fixing all the issues!! Wire integrity is good etc! I like to see that perfect! Go figure on the oil dilution!! At least it's all changed properly!! Awesome case study!! You rock, ivan! Many thumbs up 👍 👌 Btw, Happy New Year to you and Amanda!!
I knew a mechanic that could read a plug and tell exactly what was happening close to 99% of the time. Granted there were no or very few electronically controlled vehicles then, still that ability was impressive! I can tell lean from rich, oil fouling, and poor spark, but not much else. Good firing plugs are key to producing clean efficient power. I guess if you see enough plugs you learn to read them. HAPPY NEW YEAR! 🍾⚪🎊🎉
@@randy1ization and then the blind one would replace the parts, Oh I see said the blind man to his deaf son as he walked across the street reading the newspaper
Great to hear your thought process. Really appreciate your scientific approach--testing for disconfirmations of your hypotheses while also checking data that are outside the scope your presumed answer. You're a great example of why everyone should know how to think scientifically.
Off topic but I wanted to thank you, I just bought a 2009 WK Overland that has, or rather, had a few issues. The way you break things down enticed me into purchasing a OTC Oncore and figured out the problems. I'm sure there will be more in the future.....
This is what totally blows my mind. Back in the day, before all these sensors and computers, if you had a rough running, hard starting vehicle the first thing you did was plugs, plug wires, and coil wire. If you had a distributor, you would replace the points and rotor. Most of the time, that would do it. It amazes me these "parts cannon" vehicles you show where they replaced hundreds or even thousands of dollars in parts, and never touched the plugs and plug wires.
Hi Ivan, I’ve seen a lot of junk coming from the aftermarket parts stores. Once in a while I get lucky and it fits properly and functions properly. From starters to water pumps to you name it. I think the Aftermarket parts have gotten worse . I’ll never buy a part that doesn’t match the original. Sometimes it’s really hard to see their flaws. One good example would be that car you and Eric O worked on that had an aftermarket cam sensor installed. Couldn’t tell the difference by looking at it but once you cranked it over one of the cam sensors was off
Willie Gillie: I have an old Peugeot wagon.......I only replace wear-replacement parts with Toyota (Aisan-Warner/Nippondenso parts divisions ) and American-made parts.....yes,Toyota even makes brand-new waterpumps for an engine Peugeot discontinued 30 years ago. I stay away from Bosch and Chinese made parts. Easiest clue for Chinese made parts,most often they don't cast or stamp their parts country of origin(which is a violation of International Trade/Manufacturting Agreements). And with Congress allowing outlets like NAPA,etc. to put those junk Chinese parts in a new package.....it's then considered "made in USA"....fooling those in the Repair Trade and Retail DIY folks. I replaced a friends' timing-belt on her 1st Gen Honda CRV a couple of years ago......she purchased a "made in USA" NAPA timing-belt kit,......everything was Chinese....made her go down to the Honda Dealer and buy the good stuff.......and of course NAPA could have cared less they purposely sold her junk.
As a retired GM drivability technician, I would have liked to hear what the original customer complaint was before the parts were thrown at it. Even though the fuel pressure regulator was replaced, I would have inspected for a ruptured diaphragm. I have seen many aftermarket regulators bad right out of box or fail quickly. A bad regulator would account for the extended crank time, ruff start and enrich cylinder #'s 3,5 at a minimum. The parts that were replaced for the drivability concerns would not cause extended crank times. Great video , enjoyed the content.
I really enjoyed this case study ... oh the perils of the chinesium after market parts (suspected good almost) I'm surprised the aftermarket cats survived the fuel overload. As always OUTSTANDING detective work. I'm wishing you and Mrs. a very happy and healthy New Year !
PHAD, I've have good luck for many years cleaning plugs during testing with the little sand-blaster that clamps in vise and hooks to shop air. It's made just for sparkplugs. Have you tried them?
Just 2 cautions regarding sandblasting sparkplugs. Always ensure you clean/blow out the sparkplug afterwards to ensure that gritty sand residue doesn't remain left behind in the spark plug and get introduced into the engine. Also, the sandblasting action cleans beautifully, but likely scours off some of the ceramic insulator gloss finish. This probably doesn't matter with a 4 stroke engine in good condition. But if using sandblasted sparkplugs in 2 stroke engines or old 4 strokes which are burning some oil past worn rings, then the plugs may foul up after awhile at some future date.
I have seen same issue on my chevy Tahoe 5.3 liter and it was the fuel pump control module it's located by the spare tire. Great Video Ivan HAPPY NEW YEAR I HOPE NO MORE CORONAVIRUS THIS COMING YEAR.
Ivan, you took a wreck and turned it into a finely tuned machine. That last ride was magical for viewers as I'm sure it was for you. Continue to learn from you and respect your work. Thanks for Sharing!
I've had so many problems with getting poor quality store brand or store sponsored discount parts from local auto parts stores, that I just won't waste my time or money on them anymore. And I tell my customers to avoid them if they can. Sure, the low price is nice. But what good is a cheap price tag, when the parts just won't last, or even work? Anyway. Nice work on that one Ivan. I was kind of expecting a bad ground source or a short somewhere.
I never thought id say it but I agree, the percentage of aftermarket parts that are crap is amazingly high and with a rising quantity of counterfeit parts I find, I go to the dealer first as a parts source, saved me tons of headaches .
The only time I may skip OEM Parts, if the part is a superior/performance part from a reputable established company. Research is critical in making a correct decision going aftermarket.
Great video. Been away from wrenching for awhile. I am learning as much as I can about obd2 diagnostics. Your channel is a great help. Thanks for sharing your knowledge Ivan. Happy New Year to you and your family.
Outstanding Achievement & Job ! I’ve been one to stick with OEM parts . They are always a safe choice. I remember yrs ago on GM products they use to say keep your car all GM . AC / Delco ! Ford use to say use Motorcraft parts . Chrysler / Mopar .
Why the delay in replacing parts and the oil change? Maybe for a longer video. 🙄. As far as using 100% OEM parts, totally agreed. Most of the after market crap should be illegal.
is the actual exhaust back pressure the average of your transducer peak measurement? In other words would an analog gauge have measured psi instead of 6?
I used four new NTK O2 sensors on my 4.0L jeep engine. Really cleaned up the engine recently. I was low on cash when I replaced the exhaust system and re-used the old O2 sensors a couple of years ago. All good now.
The garbage parts problem has gotten out of hand. I just got done replacing a steering gear box today. Just getting a replacement gear box was an epic adventure. I took a dial indicator into dozens of parts stores including dealerships, to check end play and gear back lash in the parts stores. All were garbage. i finally sourced a used one that wasn't sloppy at a wrecking yard. It did however leak. Repairing the leaks was another adventure. It took cobbling together 4 different "rebuild kits" for enough non defective rubber O rings to reseal the gear box.
Yikes, been struggling with a P0300 on my 2005 GMC Sierra 1500 5.3 4wd quad cab 175k miles, spent most of it's life in New York, so, yeah, hella rusty underneath. It actually started with a P0307 (misfire on cylinder 7), so I swapped ignition coil 7 with coil 1, and then got the P0300. Here is what I have replaced so far to try to correct this issue (all brand new OEM ACDelco parts): iridium spark plugs (the ones I pulled looked good to me), plug wires, ignition coils (a couple looked a little rough), all four O2 sensors (they were dirty, especially bank one upstream I think it was), intake manifold gasket, harness, knock sensors, and an oil change. Also replaced crankshaft position sensor, which was pretty nasty looking. We also sprayed the MAF with MAF cleaner. I still get rough idle and the P0300 - random / multiple cylinder misfire detected on my handy Foxwell NT630Plus. Update, I bought a spark plug tester for sanity check, and all 8 seem fine. I also bought an infrared temp tool and after running the truck for 10 mins all cylinders on bank 2 seem to be the hottest (290 to 330 F) with cylinders 5 and 7 on bank 1 are cooler (225 to 280 F). I am beginning to wonder if I need to look at fuel injectors? Where to go from here?
I learned years ago if you have spark plugs that are gas fouled replace them as they will give you problems especially under hard throttle conditions. I had a 78 nova 350 engine that belonged to a friend and he put accel shorty spark plugs in and the car ran fine for 3 days and started dumping raw fuel out the tailpipes several mechanics told him his engine was blown up I replaced all spark plugs with A/C plugs changed oil and filter and car ran like a champ.. The mechanics that said it needed a engine couldn't believe that it was bad spark plugs.
the wire integrity test is great. But were you putting 12 volt positive to the signal wire? Could the 12 volts on signal wire blow the computer driver? Great videos.
KNEW IT!!.. Ivan I have one now 05 Colorado customer replaced TB & pigtail connector after that truck is a no crank no start Found throttle body motor doesn’t do anything it’s junk!!. BUT also setting current DTC P0601 internal PCM malfunction Also if you disconnect the battery and reinstall you get once chance to start vehicle, it will run until reduce power is set like 15 seconds or so but no P2101 code just the P0601 crazy!!.. so could it be a TB motor issue or power/ground coming from PCM not controlling TB ??!.. let me know what you think 🤔 plus once it dies on its own it becomes no crank no start, I diagnosed that issue and it leads to no ground side control from PCM @ starter relay. Check powers & grounds all ok. So is it a default issue because PCM sees issue with TB or bad PCM with junk TB ???
What a joke some new parts are these days. It's crazy! I actually had a similar issue with my '93 940 when I first bought it. Got it running after sitting 15 months, went on a 2 mile drive and barely made it the 2 miles back! Had brand new plugs and wires from the big chain auto parts store, with multicolored zip ties holding all 4 in a big wad, lol. I grabbed the set of OE wires and the plugs off a '92 parts 940 with 230k miles, and the car ran mint! Go figure! Great case study! Interesting! HAPPY NEW YEAR, Ivan and Amanda!
Sounds like whatever the original problem was got fixed at some point but then they built in more problems along the way with junky parts they were throwing at it. A classic example of why you need to diagnose before replacing, otherwise you can end up in a death spiral of building in more problems than you had to start with.
What would a vacuum/ pressure gauge show for exhaust backpressure. Too much fluctuation with transducer.. is there any corrolation between transducer and vacuum gage. Is fluctuation from 0 to 6 psi on transducer = to old time 2 psi of vacuum gage ?
Well done ivan, You are the sherlock holmes of auto diagnostics 😀 I would have done the plugs and maybe leads first to see if the basic spark system was ok. Maybe using darkness to see any escaping h.v (like old car testing). Then i would run away from the sensors 😀 I don't know if the plugs have an internal resistor, the 20K range on a multimeter would have been good enough. Not a good idea to have resistor plugs and leads lol. What a confusion of mistakes lol.
I have a 2006 Buick Lucerne with the 3.8. I need to replace my stoplight switch for my brake lights to function properly. Other people have said after the switch has been replaced my lights will not function without being calibrated to the bcm any ideas on which type of scan tool is needed for the calibration of the new switch?
Awesome work as usual Ivan. It's been a Good Year with some awesome case studies. Looking forward to more interesting content from you in 2022. Happy New Year to you and the family!!!!
Ivan, Happy New Year to you and your family. Really enjoy watching your case studies. Learning a lot. Big hole in my understanding of bias voltage. Do you have some videos that go over this that I could search and view. Also, if not, would you consider an explanation. It is coming up more frequently in your recent case studies. All the best.
As a mobile mechanic these case studies are invaluable to me and I just want to thank you for sharing your experience with us.
Yeah! Much agreed!
My pleasure! Thank you for the kind words Bill! 👍
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics my only question would be how come both sides showed rich? I understand bank 1 would show rich from a biased o2. But when you first checked the scan data both banks shows negative trims and high o2 voltage
@@meorge9359 possible that the bad sensor (maybe short internally) using the same ground was pulling the vottage down on both
Gotta respect Don for knowing he may have been over his head. Called for help and learned along the way. That’s what it’s all about!
bad mechanics are soooo common
I hope don changed professions
@@Walczyk You do know Don isn't the guy who fired the parts cannon, right? 7 other shops screwed up this truck, not him.
@@ischmidt yea but don looks hella dumb and unable to fix a car
i learnt long ago , if in doubt ask someone else , who might know more or different? never be scared to ask. i worked in a m/c workshop where they had pushed a bike in and out for 6 months , made 1 phone call , he put me straight , bike running inside 30 mins from start of job.
Don's a smart guy, after 7 prior attempts at different shops he gave you a call, with your help, not only did the car get fixed Don also gained some of your knowledge first hand. Obviously Don must have seen Pine Hollow videos on here.
wish Ivan was close enough for me to call when I need him.
I am really surprised all 7 shops released the vehicle after there repairs. Is there no professional integrity there?
It’s too bad we don’t have Keith Difazio in nyc anymore for these diags.
Happy New Year Everyone.
God Bless The U.S.A.
These videos qualify as O.J.T.
@@kellyr9388 parts slam and jam to get book-time or spend as little time as possible. A busy shop just cannot handle the tougher cases and should always sub it out, but that costs more and they may end u getting shafted on the job.
Tells you a lot when good used OEM parts work better than new after market parts. Thanks again Ivan for your amazing diagnostic skills. See ya next year.
Your ability to stay cool under stressful conditions is remarkable. You never get frazzled and stay on your path when troubleshooting a problem. Great work, and on the road even!
@@mejesse809 toc
Been there and done that, on my own car... Car ran like death and even backfired to the point that it blew up the muffler. It was worst on rainy days. Normally, I would have checked the wires, but they were six month old $60.00 top of the line 12mm copper core racing wires. So I was talking to a friend who says "Change the wires." I insisted, "No they are new..." and we got stuck in a loop. I finally relented and put the old wires back in and the problem was fixed.
The sad part is that if it had been anyone else's car, I would have diagnosed the problem in 5 minutes... but I simply refused to believe that I threw $60.00 in the trash on junk super high end aftermarket parts that I had custom fitted. Seriously, all I had to do was take a garden hose and mist the engine while it was running and watch the lightning show in the dark. It's a free diag I did many times, but somehow I couldn't bring myself to even do it.
There's nothing worse than getting stuck on stupid. And nothing better than getting a second opinion when it happens to you.
So basically they "saved" money by getting the cheapest parts they could find, then spent way more money with 7 shops, then this latest shop and PHAD.
I'm glad the last shop had the sense to get some additional help.
Cheap parts are just failure. And we're awash in container loads of them.
I got my first taste of aftermarket parts when I put new wires in my civic and went for a drive. 15m later there was a hard miss. New wire boot was arcing in the plug well. Put the OE's on and never touched them again.
My brother had a similar issue with his wife's car, a week after he did a diy tune up it was missing and I found it arcing between a coil post to a bolt.
so I tried to bake it into all family members ever since (especially since finding Ivan!) that aftermarket parts are just the sh1ttiest thing ever, don't touch them if you want reliability. And don't cheap out because Amazon and eBay are full of counterfeit OEM parts too!
@@volvo09 I usually just get the parts from dealers who sell cheaper online. You get first quality parts, about 30% off list, and you know they'll probably last the life of the car.
I have found extensive research indicates Dallas Cowboy swag in an automobile also causes misfires.
Well, Jerry Jones is the Devil
O2 sensors are not something to cheap out on. Glad you were able to get a good replacement.
Ivan, I said it before and I'll say it again, you are a rock star when it comes to auto diagnostics.
You may very well be the best in the business on TH-cam in this field.
You remain focused and in a systematic mode which I think helps you narrow things down until you reach the proper conclusion.
I'll say Eric O from South Main Auto is just as good.
@@MTTech they both have their strengths. Ivan has had formula training. I believe he's an EE.
Eric, has had some formal training, and a lot of training by hard knocks.
Watch South Main Auto as well I like Eric O and Ivan
Pine hollow, Scaner Danner , South Main
But Scotty was my first teacher
@@L1dechuy09 - i like Rainman Ray also. :)
The gaps on those replaced plugs were huge, no wonder they were failing to ignite cheers
many of the popular and oem plugs for that truck were around 0.060" gap. I think the factory ones were the same. there are other plugs for it with other gap sizes too.
@@throttlebottle5906 Hi, yes sounds right but the gaps on the removed plugs looked at least double that, that's a problem, many people ignore plugs and look for more complicated reasons for faults, cheers
@@TheInfoworks did you miss that they were fine wire tips double platinum plugs?
I learned from my dad when to replace the plugs, wires and cap and rotor. When it starts misfiring going up a grade, then the spark is either not strong enough or jumping where it's not supposed to. That was in 1975 and I think you showed us it is still the same today even with all the electronics. Thanks Ivan, I enjoy your videos and Happy New Year to you and your family.
Yep, I had real 1970s flashbacks in this video (not in part 1).
Great info…. I wish i knew that about thirty years ago. :0
replacing parts got them in this mess
Give it a little time, will be back with same problem.
I still say possible warped intake manifold, 5.3 known for that. Also known for failing engine coolant temperature sensor... both trick ECM to over fuel...wipes out plugs and o2 sensors and cats.
Never seen a 5.3 with a warped intake manifold yet but I have seen plenty of intake manifolds leaking. A lot of times people will get some knock sensor codes, chuck some cheapo knock sensors at it and not replace the intake manifold gasket, then they'll reef down on those 8mm bolts (torque spec is 89 inch lbs) and then they'll get a bunch of lean codes and rough idle. Seen that a bunch
Awesome Ivan!!!...I'm fixing to enroll in school..I've been doing this kind of work my whole life..I just need to catch up with the diagnostics equipment..I hope you don't mind if I use and share you with my classmates...you rock man!!👍👍😎
I went to school at 50 for the same reason bro. I learned a lot of other stuff as well. Almost ten years later and I'm still working on cars. Good luck man. I hope it works out for you as good as it did for me.
Hey Raymond! Of course! I'm working on some online virtual course content this year which you should find very useful 🙂
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics That's great news, Ivan. Thank you in advance for sharing your excellent diagnostic skills!
Great move. Let me ask you what school? I like to get some extra education but don't want to start at the bottom nor do I want over priced no education.
@@ahmadghosheh3104 state vocation school...in Tennessee 👍😎
I agreed with everything you said in this video but at the end when you found and changed that offbrand O2 sensor plus you change the plugs I would’ve done one or the other first even though my first reaction was the O2 sensor is the issue I always find out who makes the OE o2 senors for any car and we will not put in anything about that, we have chased our own tails too many times and the Napa professional website and Autozone for us mechanics will let you know if this is aftermarket or or OE brand, Great video and information. Once you saw the weird O2 sensor you probably could’ve swapped them from side to side since you already have them both out and without cleaning up the plugs and seen a transfer to bank 2! But I’ve been wrong before and I’m still learning because of guys like you👍🏻
I’ve seen a bad fuel pressure regulator cause similar rich running conditions. They leak then it sucks fuel in through the vacuum line. You can pull the vacuum line off and make sure there’s no fuel inside.
Agree, fuel in the oil wouldn't cause such a massive rich running condition. Check fuel pressure regulator air line and fuel tank purge line for fuel.
the fuel pressure regulator has been replaced said in part one
@@brainndamage It took me 16,000 miles to figure out the fuel pressure reg was bad (it fell apart). It was a backfire that led me to it. In the video he said that gas in the oil caused hard start, not that it was causing rich running.
@@tedmoss it caused both the long crank time and rich condition 👍
@@ozzykrahn806 just because it's new doesn't mean it's good, it just means it's new
Denso 02's are OE on these trucks. I had one fail and replaced with another Denso. And truck ran perfect.
Good points! I had a Ford 3.9L (2000 Windstar) that had misfires under very specific load cases. Turns out the after market Bosch Platinum plugs were the major cause. Under warranty the Ford dealer would replace only one plug and give it back to me, each time solving the worst case cylinder for misfire. The mechanic said he was not allowed to replace all plugs unless the cylinder showed a misfire while under observation. Ford paid a lot of rack time to simply diagnose six incompatible plugs.
When I was tech at Ford ran into this so many times. With after market plugs being the problem.
Awesome diagnosis and fix Ivan! Always did explain to clients that its cheaper in the long run to get original parts, but always gave them the choice on what to purchase with certain caveats. Bet on the clogged exhaust from the first part, but with the back pressure test proved me wrong. Thanks for taking us along the diagnosis and fix! Learned a lot and that Don made the right call to invite you over. Cheers!
Based on the evidence, I didn't believe that cats had anything to do with it. A clogged converter will have much more obvious symptoms and performance problems, and will set different codes.
I loved the transition from work to celebration. 14:18
I agree with “V”. Don is a cool (& smart) guy to not only call you, but participate in the diag. He is learning along with all of us. Everyone can’t know everything. Beat to know when to call in someone with more knowledge that we have. No shame in that. Plus customer is going to love that his shop fixed the truck! It is also funny how replacing “new” parts with used fixed some of the problems. Think how much we all learned from Keith on Staten Island.
Yes Ivan, a very expensive lesson for the owner……
After market crap strikes again! Spent a couple decades working in GM Dealerships and I can't tell you the number of times a car or truck started out with a simple part failure and aftermarket parts ended up causing many many more problems.
Not worth the time, use OEM every time and you will have happier clients and techs!
Ivan you are the Grand Wizard of Diagnostic Troubleshooting...Always buy OEM Electronic Parts or find out who manufacturered them (Hitachi, Denso, NGK, Motorcraft,AC Delco,etc..). Just BEWARE, there's a lot of Counterfeit Parts by third party sellers out there.
Awesome case study and good for Don for asking for help with that basket case. It's sad when you have to take a bunch of new parts off and replace them we with used ones to fix the truck. I imagine the customer will make the rounds in the New Year and ask for his money back at different shops. Happy New Year.
You get what you pay for should be the moral to this diagnostic. And thanks for number 2 the next day. I was left in suspense after part 1.
*Awesome!*
I was hoping you'd teach the shop owner on this one!
You are a great teacher!
Wow, sensors, plugs and wires were bad? Unbelievable!! At least it's all back oem!! That's great job fixing all the issues!! Wire integrity is good etc! I like to see that perfect! Go figure on the oil dilution!! At least it's all changed properly!! Awesome case study!! You rock, ivan! Many thumbs up 👍 👌
Btw, Happy New Year to you and Amanda!!
Thank you so much for your support Josh! 2021 was just warming up for 2022 😉
probably all e-bay/amazon knockoff parts, you get what you pay for or some shop gave them a big shafting.
I knew a mechanic that could read a plug and tell exactly what was happening close to 99% of the time. Granted there were no or very few electronically controlled vehicles then, still that ability was impressive! I can tell lean from rich, oil fouling, and poor spark, but not much else. Good firing plugs are key to producing clean efficient power. I guess if you see enough plugs you learn to read them. HAPPY NEW YEAR! 🍾⚪🎊🎉
I knew a deaf mechanic who could put his hand on a running engine and tell what was wrong.
@@randy1ization and then the blind one would replace the parts, Oh I see said the blind man to his deaf son as he walked across the street reading the newspaper
Great to hear your thought process. Really appreciate your scientific approach--testing for disconfirmations of your hypotheses while also checking data that are outside the scope your presumed answer. You're a great example of why everyone should know how to think scientifically.
Off topic but I wanted to thank you, I just bought a 2009 WK Overland that has, or rather, had a few issues. The way you break things down enticed me into purchasing a OTC Oncore and figured out the problems. I'm sure there will be more in the future.....
Its always fun to watch a master in their trades..
This is what totally blows my mind. Back in the day, before all these sensors and computers, if you had a rough running, hard starting vehicle the first thing you did was plugs, plug wires, and coil wire. If you had a distributor, you would replace the points and rotor. Most of the time, that would do it. It amazes me these "parts cannon" vehicles you show where they replaced hundreds or even thousands of dollars in parts, and never touched the plugs and plug wires.
Plugs and wires WERE replaced, maybe several times. But shitty wires made it worse and root cause for fouling was garbage O2 sensor on Bank 1 🤣
Hi Ivan, I’ve seen a lot of junk coming from the aftermarket parts stores. Once in a while I get lucky and it fits properly and functions properly. From starters to water pumps to you name it. I think the Aftermarket parts have gotten worse . I’ll never buy a part that doesn’t match the original. Sometimes it’s really hard to see their flaws. One good example would be that car you and Eric O worked on that had an aftermarket cam sensor installed. Couldn’t tell the difference by looking at it but once you cranked it over one of the cam sensors was off
Willie Gillie:
I have an old Peugeot wagon.......I only replace wear-replacement parts with Toyota (Aisan-Warner/Nippondenso parts divisions ) and American-made parts.....yes,Toyota even makes brand-new waterpumps for an engine Peugeot discontinued 30 years ago. I stay away from Bosch and Chinese made parts. Easiest clue for Chinese made parts,most often they don't cast or stamp their parts country of origin(which is a violation of International Trade/Manufacturting Agreements). And with Congress allowing outlets like NAPA,etc. to put those junk Chinese parts in a new package.....it's then considered "made in USA"....fooling those in the Repair Trade and Retail DIY folks. I replaced a friends' timing-belt on her 1st Gen Honda CRV a couple of years ago......she purchased a "made in USA" NAPA timing-belt kit,......everything was Chinese....made her go down to the Honda Dealer and buy the good stuff.......and of course NAPA could have cared less they purposely sold her junk.
NEW = Never Ever Worked
@@tomtke7351 Amen, Tom!
As a retired GM drivability technician, I would have liked to hear what the original customer complaint was before the parts were thrown at it. Even though the fuel pressure regulator was replaced, I would have inspected for a ruptured diaphragm. I have seen many aftermarket regulators bad right out of box or fail quickly. A bad regulator would account for the extended crank time, ruff start and enrich cylinder #'s 3,5 at a minimum. The parts that were replaced for the drivability concerns would not cause extended crank times. Great video , enjoyed the content.
Did you get to the bottom of why the brake cleaner sprayed around manifold caused fuel trims to adjust?
I really enjoyed this case study ... oh the perils of the chinesium after market parts (suspected good almost) I'm surprised the aftermarket cats survived the fuel overload. As always OUTSTANDING detective work. I'm wishing you and Mrs. a very happy and healthy New Year !
PHAD, I've have good luck for many years cleaning plugs during testing with the little sand-blaster that clamps in vise and hooks to shop air. It's made just for sparkplugs. Have you tried them?
Just 2 cautions regarding sandblasting sparkplugs. Always ensure you clean/blow out the sparkplug afterwards to ensure that gritty sand residue doesn't remain left behind in the spark plug and get introduced into the engine. Also, the sandblasting action cleans beautifully, but likely scours off some of the ceramic insulator gloss finish. This probably doesn't matter with a 4 stroke engine in good condition. But if using sandblasted sparkplugs in 2 stroke engines or old 4 strokes which are burning some oil past worn rings, then the plugs may foul up after awhile at some future date.
I have seen same issue on my chevy Tahoe 5.3 liter and it was the fuel pump control module it's located by the spare tire. Great Video Ivan HAPPY NEW YEAR I HOPE NO MORE CORONAVIRUS THIS COMING YEAR.
Genuine parts cost more for a reason for sure they work ! Good lesson in how to save your vehicle and your money
Basically back to basics solved this one. This little series is fun to watch. Can't wait to see the next cases.. Cheerz
Ivan, you took a wreck and turned it into a finely tuned machine. That last ride was magical for viewers as I'm sure it was for you. Continue to learn from you and respect your work. Thanks for Sharing!
no the fifth cylinder misfire was the original company and he might be on the hook to give the car back to the owner if he can't fix that
Ivan, the main thing I've learned from all of your videos is this. Stay away from aftermarket parts.
I've had so many problems with getting poor quality store brand or store sponsored discount parts from local auto parts stores, that I just won't waste my time or money on them anymore. And I tell my customers to avoid them if they can. Sure, the low price is nice. But what good is a cheap price tag, when the parts just won't last, or even work? Anyway. Nice work on that one Ivan. I was kind of expecting a bad ground source or a short somewhere.
I never thought id say it but I agree, the percentage of aftermarket parts that are crap is amazingly high and with a rising quantity of counterfeit parts I find, I go to the dealer first as a parts source, saved me tons of headaches .
The only time I may skip OEM Parts, if the part is a superior/performance part from a reputable established company. Research is critical in making a correct decision going aftermarket.
I think Don suspected the aftermarket parts were the cause and just wanted to see it confirmed
Hi Ivan, awesome case study! These type of jobs can consume so much time 😩 I could feel your pain bud lol
But the satisfaction after winning the battle is well worth it 😉
Great video. Been away from wrenching for awhile. I am learning as much as I can about obd2 diagnostics. Your channel is a great help. Thanks for sharing your knowledge Ivan. Happy New Year to you and your family.
Awesome Job diagnosing that one Ivan! Can’t wait to see you the videos in 2022!
Thanks for your support Robert, 2022 will be great! 🙂
Wow. That Was kind of anti climactic. Tune up parts and a o2 sensor. 7 shop's couldn't figure that out. Wow
Did you check the OHM values on the plug wires? It would have been interesting to see what it was.
One of them fell apart when removed... Pure JUNK lol
Need a megger to tell the whole truth.
Bad ammo for the parts cannon is getting to be a big problem!
This was a good one! Once again you are the"Wizard"! Thanks Ivan,Happy New Year!
Brilliant troubleshooting analysis !
Happy New year Ivan to you and your Wife.
Outstanding Achievement & Job ! I’ve been one to stick with OEM parts . They are always a safe choice. I remember yrs ago on GM products they use to say keep your car all GM . AC / Delco ! Ford use to say use Motorcraft parts . Chrysler / Mopar .
What about the intake manifold leak diagnosed in part one?
Some of those ACD plugs could be counterfits its more common than you think, Maybe its why the used plugs were better
As a shade tree mechanic, I'm now going to make sure to use OEM parts when possible. Thanks for the great video!
Why the delay in replacing parts and the oil change? Maybe for a longer video. 🙄. As far as using 100% OEM parts, totally agreed. Most of the after market crap should be illegal.
There’s a man at the top of his game. 👍
is the actual exhaust back pressure the average of your transducer peak measurement? In other words would an analog gauge have measured psi instead of 6?
SUPER! Don picked up quickly on the testing techniques. HAPPY NEW YEAR IVAN, DON, TRUCK OWNER AND EVERYONE.
That was hilarious! The parts cannon got me once or twice working on computers, pretty soon you can't tell what is happening.
I used four new NTK O2 sensors on my 4.0L jeep engine. Really cleaned up the engine recently. I was low on cash when I replaced the exhaust system and re-used the old O2 sensors a couple of years ago. All good now.
So NTK sensors are of good quality ?
The garbage parts problem has gotten out of hand. I just got done replacing a steering gear box today. Just getting a replacement gear box was an epic adventure. I took a dial indicator into dozens of parts stores including dealerships, to check end play and gear back lash in the parts stores. All were garbage. i finally sourced a used one that wasn't sloppy at a wrecking yard. It did however leak. Repairing the leaks was another adventure. It took cobbling together 4 different "rebuild kits" for enough non defective rubber O rings to reseal the gear box.
Insanity.
getting the NGK stuff , i like that , it never fail me once
Back pressure still seems high may be a restriction in the muffler
I agree, but even oem parts are no guarantee anymore.
Incredible ! Great case study.
Yikes, been struggling with a P0300 on my 2005 GMC Sierra 1500 5.3 4wd quad cab 175k miles, spent most of it's life in New York, so, yeah, hella rusty underneath. It actually started with a P0307 (misfire on cylinder 7), so I swapped ignition coil 7 with coil 1, and then got the P0300.
Here is what I have replaced so far to try to correct this issue (all brand new OEM ACDelco parts): iridium spark plugs (the ones I pulled looked good to me), plug wires, ignition coils (a couple looked a little rough), all four O2 sensors (they were dirty, especially bank one upstream I think it was), intake manifold gasket, harness, knock sensors, and an oil change.
Also replaced crankshaft position sensor, which was pretty nasty looking. We also sprayed the MAF with MAF cleaner. I still get rough idle and the P0300 - random / multiple cylinder misfire detected on my handy Foxwell NT630Plus.
Update, I bought a spark plug tester for sanity check, and all 8 seem fine. I also bought an infrared temp tool and after running the truck for 10 mins all cylinders on bank 2 seem to be the hottest (290 to 330 F) with cylinders 5 and 7 on bank 1 are cooler (225 to 280 F).
I am beginning to wonder if I need to look at fuel injectors?
Where to go from here?
Ivan, great video and info!!!! I wonder what the original issue was? Why so many parts?
Wasn't 6 psi excessive for exhaust back pressure?
Another awesome study! I hope you and Amanda have an awesome New Years!!!
Thank you Roxanne! Happy new year! 🙂
Great video, Thanks for taking the extra time.
I learned years ago if you have spark plugs that are gas fouled replace them as they will give you problems especially under hard throttle conditions. I had a 78 nova 350 engine that belonged to a friend and he put accel shorty spark plugs in and the car ran fine for 3 days and started dumping raw fuel out the tailpipes several mechanics told him his engine was blown up I replaced all spark plugs with A/C plugs changed oil and filter and car ran like a champ.. The mechanics that said it needed a engine couldn't believe that it was bad spark plugs.
Very interesting .Thanks Ivan and Don..
If you drive your truck backward though Pennsylvania will the rust go away?
Happy New Year to you and the Mrs.
the wire integrity test is great. But were you putting 12 volt positive to the signal wire? Could the 12 volts on signal wire blow the computer driver? Great videos.
My heaven's.. this is very technical and extremely interesting
KNEW IT!!.. Ivan
I have one now 05 Colorado customer replaced TB & pigtail connector after that truck is a no crank no start
Found throttle body motor doesn’t do anything it’s junk!!. BUT also setting current DTC P0601 internal PCM malfunction
Also if you disconnect the battery and reinstall you get once chance to start vehicle, it will run until reduce power is set like 15 seconds or so but no P2101 code just the P0601 crazy!!.. so could it be a TB motor issue or power/ground coming from PCM not controlling TB ??!.. let me know what you think 🤔 plus once it dies on its own it becomes no crank no start, I diagnosed that issue and it leads to no ground side control from PCM @ starter relay. Check powers & grounds all ok. So is it a default issue because PCM sees issue with TB or bad PCM with junk TB ???
What a joke some new parts are these days. It's crazy! I actually had a similar issue with my '93 940 when I first bought it. Got it running after sitting 15 months, went on a 2 mile drive and barely made it the 2 miles back! Had brand new plugs and wires from the big chain auto parts store, with multicolored zip ties holding all 4 in a big wad, lol. I grabbed the set of OE wires and the plugs off a '92 parts 940 with 230k miles, and the car ran mint! Go figure!
Great case study! Interesting! HAPPY NEW YEAR, Ivan and Amanda!
Weren't both O2 sensors showing babies voltage ? Did you need to replace bank 2 sensor also?
"Pennywise dollar foolish" Cheap parts will put you in a foul mood.
wow my new favorite channel great job I will now be keeping my old parts
Happy new year team OCN
So, after a year, 7 shops, and junk aftermarket parts, what was the original problem, if any.?
Sounds like whatever the original problem was got fixed at some point but then they built in more problems along the way with junky parts they were throwing at it. A classic example of why you need to diagnose before replacing, otherwise you can end up in a death spiral of building in more problems than you had to start with.
I'd say it was a bad plug lead on bank 1 . That's why they needed to change the leads on bank 2 in the end
What type of software are you using on the laptop for wiring harness diagram
Absolutely awesome diagnostics...
Great case study on some old school trouble shooting. Thanks for the videos Ivan and Happy New Year to your family!
Terrific job. Happy New Year from BC, Canada.
What would a vacuum/ pressure gauge show for exhaust backpressure. Too much fluctuation with transducer.. is there any corrolation between transducer and vacuum gage. Is fluctuation from 0 to 6 psi on transducer = to old time 2 psi of vacuum gage ?
And now for the rest of the story!!!!
Well done ivan, You are the sherlock holmes of auto diagnostics 😀
I would have done the plugs and maybe leads first to see if the basic spark system was ok.
Maybe using darkness to see any escaping h.v (like old car testing).
Then i would run away from the sensors 😀
I don't know if the plugs have an internal resistor, the 20K range on a multimeter would have been good enough.
Not a good idea to have resistor plugs and leads lol.
What a confusion of mistakes lol.
I have a 2006 Buick Lucerne with the 3.8. I need to replace my stoplight switch for my brake lights to function properly. Other people have said after the switch has been replaced my lights will not function without being calibrated to the bcm any ideas on which type of scan tool is needed for the calibration of the new switch?
Awesome work as usual Ivan. It's been a Good Year with some awesome case studies. Looking forward to more interesting content from you in 2022. Happy New Year to you and the family!!!!
Hi Dave, happy new year! 2022 is going to be a blast! 😁👍
Seeing that 6 psi of back pressure still has me puzzled…my 01 Corvette 5.7 max is 2 psi at 2000 RPM..don’t know what SI for this truck says ??
Ivan, Happy New Year to you and your family. Really enjoy watching your case studies. Learning a lot. Big hole in my understanding of bias voltage. Do you have some videos that go over this that I could search and view. Also, if not, would you consider an explanation. It is coming up more frequently in your recent case studies. All the best.
happy new year Ivan and thanks for the sharing of your experience and knowledge