Some notes in regards to my tire settings on track. Cold tire pressure = 27psi, 4-5 warm up laps minimum @ 50 deg. F. ambient temp. You can order them shaved for max grip (in competition), but it will shorten the tire lifespan.
What are your thoughts on changing offset from stock? Is there a safe amount to go negative offset with out affecting handling/ torque steer or increase suspension wear? Would going from 45mm to 35mm be had for the track? (FWD)
That's a tough question to answer without having a lengthy conversation and possibly some diagrams and experimentation. Changing geometry in the suspension will change driving characteristics. So I cannot say in good faith that there is a "safe amount" to change offset where handling is not affected. At the same time there are other adjustments that may safely "offset" negative effects of those changes. It boils down to driver preference and the events the car is used for. Decreasing offset can wear bearings and struts out faster, and increase the scrub radius. Also, decreasing offset, sets the wheels out further so that usually improves roll. Which usually improves cornering and stability. Changing wheel/tire width, decreasing camber, increasing caster, and dialing in sway bar and spring stiffness are things that have potential to recover or improve grip, steering agility, and torque steer. The scrub radius change from decreasing your offset can be reduced by increasing camber to a degree. It depends on your specific suspension system and managing the negative results from decreased camber. I chose to decrease my offset so I can get a wider wheel so I can have more tire (more grip). I could not fit a +48 offset 8.5"+ wide wheel without decreasing the offset. The wheel would hit the strut. At my car's power/torque levels, a skinnier wheel/tire (17x7, 225) would break loose frequently. Which is fun, but not great for lap times or tire wear. I hope this made sense and/or helped with your question. Feel free to let me know if it didn't 😅
@@RyKingUploads thanks for the quick response. That totally makes sense. I was thinking of going from stock 17x7 45mm to 17x8 37mm (100% stock 2007 Civic Si, Michelin PS4S, 15+track days). I'll have to see if the increased width/ lighter wheel rim, would counter the negative affects of having the wheels offset outwards 21mm more (8mm offset+ 13mm from increase 1 inch wheel width). My research so far seems to be "try to stick to stock offset". Great video btw, keep them coming, very informative. How have your RPF1's held up? I hear they are great, but prone to bending.
No problem. The rpfs are great wheels. I wouldn't say they are prone to bending as much as many people run too low profile tire to drive on poorly maintained roads. That's why for daily wheels I try to run a tire with more sidewall. When I had 17x7s I had 225/45 tires and never had a bent wheel and I drove in NJ & NY 😂. They still looked good imo. Any taller than that prob would have looked too tall. As far as your offset, I would agree in saying to stick to the OEM offset as long as possible. Once you start playing with the suspension geometry you'll go down a rabbit hole. It can be a good thing in terms of learning, but I feel it can be a lengthy quest.
Team, if this video inspired you to purchase items from a manufacturer or distributor please let them know this channel inspired you when you check out your cart. Thank you - RK
with the 30mm offset did you have to roll your fenders? I have a 1999 2.5 RS and I wanna get new wheels for it I was looking at the JNC010 wheels but they only have a 30 offset and I don't wanna roll my fenders. My car is lowered on coils rn and I'm looking for a nice flush fitment
My fenders are modified beyond rolling (cut and bent). My original plan was to go wide so I didn't do much research in terms of wheel size restrictions to keep it flush. I don't think JNC makes sizes that will fit our cars well, but enkei and other Japanese manufacturers should have more OEM friendly sizes.
@@RyKingUploads so is that like a full respray or just like the outside, if you don’t mide me asking how much did it cost you? My dad was planing to do a paint job for his gc8 and this would likely help.
The exterior, engine bay, and door jambs were all painted. I cleaned and sprayed the underbody with 3m rubberized undercoating. I prepped the body (poorly lmao) so I just paid for the respray around $1300. The plan is to install/build a widebody so I didn't go all out with the body yet.
If I get a workspace suitable for paint I want to do most of the work myself. I want to pay a pro to help with the more skilled sections and walk through the process and share some tips for the channel.
They fit the 17". Some of the pics in the video show the bbk installed. I'm working on the bbk install video now, but I've already tested them on track.
@@RyKingUploads wow! A big brake kit for 17” wheels!? I’ll be interested to see this. I’m currently looking for better brakes, as I autocross my 2006 STi. A big brake kit would be awesome, but it would compromise all my 17” wheels. Looking forward to your video.
Ok, the stock sti calipers are really good. I think you should try upgrading your rotors and pads first. Maybe 2 piece rotors and high performance pads. I really liked my DBA rotors and they have pads too. Stoptech makes great racing pads as well. Make sure you change your brake fluid too (I use dot 4).
Some notes in regards to my tire settings on track. Cold tire pressure = 27psi, 4-5 warm up laps minimum @ 50 deg. F. ambient temp. You can order them shaved for max grip (in competition), but it will shorten the tire lifespan.
Yo how do you only have ~330 views on this?!?!? Just shared it to my GC buddies! Great content! Keep it up!
Thank you.
Thank you for answering my question on amazon about hub centric ring..
No problem, I hope it was helpful. Thanks for watching.
Great job. I recommend the new Goodyear Eagle Supercar 3R as your next “track day” tire.
Thanks for the recommendation. Did you see your cameo when I lost it on turn 2? 😂
@@RyKingUploads sure did in the E46. Good save.
Just checked on that tire, Goodyear doesn't list that model in 17". Only 18,19, & 20
What are your thoughts on changing offset from stock? Is there a safe amount to go negative offset with out affecting handling/ torque steer or increase suspension wear? Would going from 45mm to 35mm be had for the track? (FWD)
That's a tough question to answer without having a lengthy conversation and possibly some diagrams and experimentation.
Changing geometry in the suspension will change driving characteristics. So I cannot say in good faith that there is a "safe amount" to change offset where handling is not affected. At the same time there are other adjustments that may safely "offset" negative effects of those changes. It boils down to driver preference and the events the car is used for.
Decreasing offset can wear bearings and struts out faster, and increase the scrub radius. Also, decreasing offset, sets the wheels out further so that usually improves roll. Which usually improves cornering and stability.
Changing wheel/tire width, decreasing camber, increasing caster, and dialing in sway bar and spring stiffness are things that have potential to recover or improve grip, steering agility, and torque steer. The scrub radius change from decreasing your offset can be reduced by increasing camber to a degree. It depends on your specific suspension system and managing the negative results from decreased camber.
I chose to decrease my offset so I can get a wider wheel so I can have more tire (more grip). I could not fit a +48 offset 8.5"+ wide wheel without decreasing the offset. The wheel would hit the strut. At my car's power/torque levels, a skinnier wheel/tire (17x7, 225) would break loose frequently. Which is fun, but not great for lap times or tire wear.
I hope this made sense and/or helped with your question. Feel free to let me know if it didn't 😅
@@RyKingUploads thanks for the quick response. That totally makes sense. I was thinking of going from stock 17x7 45mm to 17x8 37mm (100% stock 2007 Civic Si, Michelin PS4S, 15+track days). I'll have to see if the increased width/ lighter wheel rim, would counter the negative affects of having the wheels offset outwards 21mm more (8mm offset+ 13mm from increase 1 inch wheel width). My research so far seems to be "try to stick to stock offset". Great video btw, keep them coming, very informative. How have your RPF1's held up? I hear they are great, but prone to bending.
No problem.
The rpfs are great wheels. I wouldn't say they are prone to bending as much as many people run too low profile tire to drive on poorly maintained roads. That's why for daily wheels I try to run a tire with more sidewall. When I had 17x7s I had 225/45 tires and never had a bent wheel and I drove in NJ & NY 😂. They still looked good imo. Any taller than that prob would have looked too tall.
As far as your offset, I would agree in saying to stick to the OEM offset as long as possible. Once you start playing with the suspension geometry you'll go down a rabbit hole. It can be a good thing in terms of learning, but I feel it can be a lengthy quest.
Team, if this video inspired you to purchase items from a manufacturer or distributor please let them know this channel inspired you when you check out your cart. Thank you - RK
with the 30mm offset did you have to roll your fenders? I have a 1999 2.5 RS and I wanna get new wheels for it I was looking at the JNC010 wheels but they only have a 30 offset and I don't wanna roll my fenders. My car is lowered on coils rn and I'm looking for a nice flush fitment
My fenders are modified beyond rolling (cut and bent). My original plan was to go wide so I didn't do much research in terms of wheel size restrictions to keep it flush.
I don't think JNC makes sizes that will fit our cars well, but enkei and other Japanese manufacturers should have more OEM friendly sizes.
@@RyKingUploads thank you for the reply, very helpful, I will keep searching around
I love that colour on the gc8, whats it called.
Thanks. I picked it from a book of samples so it doesn't have a name. I would say it's from the gun-metal metallic grey family of colors.
@@RyKingUploads so is that like a full respray or just like the outside, if you don’t mide me asking how much did it cost you? My dad was planing to do a paint job for his gc8 and this would likely help.
The exterior, engine bay, and door jambs were all painted. I cleaned and sprayed the underbody with 3m rubberized undercoating. I prepped the body (poorly lmao) so I just paid for the respray around $1300. The plan is to install/build a widebody so I didn't go all out with the body yet.
If I get a workspace suitable for paint I want to do most of the work myself. I want to pay a pro to help with the more skilled sections and walk through the process and share some tips for the channel.
@@RyKingUploads thanks, i hop the widebody go well for you good luck, also your channel is 🔥🔥
Will your future big brake kit fit your 17” wheels? You may need larger 18” wheels.
They fit the 17". Some of the pics in the video show the bbk installed. I'm working on the bbk install video now, but I've already tested them on track.
@@RyKingUploads wow! A big brake kit for 17” wheels!? I’ll be interested to see this. I’m currently looking for better brakes, as I autocross my 2006 STi. A big brake kit would be awesome, but it would compromise all my 17” wheels. Looking forward to your video.
I think the stock STI rotors are close to 330mm and the brembos are pretty good. Have you upgraded your rotors and pads yet?
@@RyKingUploads no. I’ve got three sets of 17” wheels that would suddenly be obsolete going to a big brake kit.
Ok, the stock sti calipers are really good. I think you should try upgrading your rotors and pads first. Maybe 2 piece rotors and high performance pads. I really liked my DBA rotors and they have pads too. Stoptech makes great racing pads as well. Make sure you change your brake fluid too (I use dot 4).