I was so excited to learn a new knot. When you were done, I recognized it as a taut line hitch I learned in boy scouts 50 years ago to keep tent lines .. well .. taut. Because it holds in one direction, but loosens in the other. I may not have learned a new knot, but I learned a new use for an old knot. 🤓🦊 Thanks for sharing.
The Magnus Hitch was new to me. Definitely looks easier to untie than a Rolling Hitch. Only thing is that all the references I can see show that pull should be in the opposite direction (ie pulling across the first 2 turns). I wonder if that kinks the chain a little less.
Not sure about the need for stretch given you have the catenary of the chain which acts to absorb the shocks of the blow on the anchor, BUT… using a snubber is good practice as it relieves the pressure on the windlass AND if you’re sleeping in the forepeak and the boat is swinging, saves the grinding of the chain on the bow roller
Hello there. How bout when wind and and waves are coming from different angles ? ie. waves wrapping around an island , can snub further aft so bow is to waves. I've used to great success . Taught to me years ago by a long time cruiser
Thank you. But I have a feeling that you are tying the knot in the wrong direction, so the load is pulling in the wrong direction. It can be found in Ashley's book of knots number 1736, where it is indeed described as a superior variation of the rolling hitch, but not that way round!
You are correct about the direction of pull being the other way around. If you tie it correctly, with the round turn on the other side of the knot, the knot will not distort and I have had issues where the knot has slipped on the chain (as well as on lines when using it to recover from a winch override). When you tie it backwards, like I showed, the knot will distort and create a 90° bend in the chain (or line that it is tied to) which will drastically increase the friction of the knot and also its ability to hold its place. Tying it like this, I have never had it slip and when untying it after being loaded it is effortlessly untied, unlike the rolling hitch is after being loaded.
I use a rolling hitch and that works too, haven't had an issue in up to 50 knots. I'll have a look at the Magnus hitch too and see how she goes. i hate chain hooks!
Sadly we didn’t notice the spots until after a long time, then thought we cleaned them off, but we didn’t get the spots! I can say that they are now cleaned off!
Going to try this next time at anchor! I normally use a stainless shackle to join my nylon rode's eye spice to the anchor chain. Works but does cause a small chafe point. - other good point of the snubber is less echoes through the hull when tension takes up. Better for sleep
Very true! When we have found ourselves in calm waters with a strong current, sometimes we will choose not to use the snubber so we can “hear” if the anchor starts dragging. The snubber does block that sound out completely!
👍🏼 You are a wonderful teacher and I for one appreciate the review of the basics that many of us forget or never learned. A good alternative are climbing grade carabineers instead of knots. Also good for tying dinghy quickly.
It's been a while since I last bought a climbing karabiner, but back then they topped out at around 25 kN. They're designed to survive the dynamic load of a falling human, not a boat. It would need to be a pretty small boat and pretty benign conditions.
It’s the anchor watch that came with our Vesper AIS in the XB8000. I didn’t know it would have an anchor watch until I installed it and found it! It works very reliably too.
@@RiggingDoctor Ah, the Vesper! It does advertise a lot of neat features like this. I was enticed by the vesper cortex (is this the one you got?) as we do need to replace our aging VHF, and we don't have AIS yet-- but I wasn't sure if it was quite worth the investment since we aren't ocean crossing just on the great lakes. Do you like it, then?
Thnk you. Good video. You're the first person to note the directional part of the Magnus hitch. It makes sense. I will use this! The only question I have is that with a taught-line hitch the double loop goes on the side that is being pulled whereas you put the double loop on the other side. Why would it be different for Magnus? Thank you for a great video though!
The correct way is with the two loops on the side of the direction of pull. The reason I use it backwards is the knot then distorts the chain which adds even further security. The chain can easily bend and not be harmed, and this kink makes the rope hold even more securely.
I love your channel and your teaching. I am new to knot tying and I love this knot but a book I have says that a magnus hitch is more like a clove hitch with an extra turn. To me this looks more like a cow hitch with one extra turn. Love the videos and thanks. 👍
You already trust that your chain won't snap, right? So, choosing a snubber with about the same breaking load as the chain would be just fine. Not so thin that it can break in a storm (chafe notwithstanding), not so thick that it'll have too little stretch
Very good points. I like to start off with a snubber that is the same diameter as your travel dock lines. Home port docklines tend to be thicker to hold up to any weather conditions that arise while you are away, while travel dock lines tend to be thinner so that they stow more easily and because you are there to address any issues that might arise should foul weather arrive while traveling.
@@RiggingDoctor Hah - so that begs the question, how do you size your dock lines? We’re buying a boat (44’ on deck, 32000#s dry) and I don’t want to go s large that it doesn’t stretch or so thing that it breaks.
@@owentribe6095I don't know the answer for sure, but I guess you could do worse than look at the load that your deck cleats are rated for. You'll want to check whether the rated load is the ultimate breaking point, or the working load, and choose the strength of your line accordingly. You could also consider the size of your cleats and choose the line diameter which matches them. Another approach would be based on climbing. Dynamic loads from typical falls are around ten times the climbers body weight, and then you double that to get the breaking strength of your ropes. So if you weigh 160 lb, you would want a rope rated for a dynamic load of at least 3000 lb. (And with appropriate stretch characteristics, abrasion resistence, water repellency, hand, etc etc). It would be interesting to compare that with the strength of your dock lines - I suspect the dynamic loading factor would be higher in a big blow, depending on windage, the dock's wind shadow, etc. Then again, you might be able to add more lines to spread the load.
I use your hitch, but it seems to me that this hitch is closer to a two turn version of the three turn icicle hitch rather than a Magnus hitch. The icicle is Evaluated by practical sailor, pasted below. If all the load is taken up at the lock as you have suggested, I think the PS test would still apply and supports your approach. >>>>>>>>>>> “Icicle Hitch The strongest of the rope-end hitches tested, the icicle hitch never slipped and weakened the rope less than the others. However, it is very tricky to tie with one hand. It is not difficult to release. Bottom line: This is a secure knot. We recommend the icicle hitch for those who want to keep their knot-tying skills sharp and don’t mind making extra effort for security.”
I loved reading about that knot. That article inspired me to look at knots from a different viewpoint. I used to think “they have all been invented” but that showed me that they haven’t and that the physics of knots can be employed for a variety of uses. I actually have it tied in a few places on the boat and those have held for over a decade now. Such a cool knot!
Herbie, I'm pretty sure the load should be pulling against the two cinch loops and not against the half hitch as you tied it. Regardless, thank you, I'm going to use this... correctly. This is also a perfect hitch to use to free up a winch for whatever reason 😐... I could've used this a few weeks back, lol
On chain it works in either direction. When tied correctly, the knot holds its shape and slips more easily. When tied the wrong way (this way) it deforms and makes a bend in the line or chain and really holds firmly.
@@RiggingDoctor Thanks for replying, I knew in the back of my mind you'd have some reason for what you did. On my practice line, I did notice it deforming and kinking, securing it, but not sure I could trust that for a good nights sleep
Great advice! I appreciate your tutorials. ❤️ Do you have a recommendation on how to pick a properly-sized dock line for the snubber? It doesn't look like it's taking the full weight of the chain nor the boat, so can you use a smaller line than your normal docklines, or, since it's going to be flexing continually under load, is it better to go with a larger and stronger line-size? Should you try to match your line to your chain, or does that not matter? Can you go too far, say with a 3" hawser? 😉
That’s an excellent question. I like to start off with the same diameter as my travel dock lines. They are thinner than my home port dock lines to make stowage easier, but still strong enough to hold the boat. This is a good starting point for the snubber. As you mentioned, it will constantly be working and stretching so it will wear out. I view snubbers as a consumable and when they start to look worn out, I replace them. By tying a knot to the chain and a clear hitch to the boat, you also get to move the point of contact with the bow of the boat to spread out the wear to make the snubber last longer as well. With a hook and a splice, the length is fixed and the chafe point will always be in the same spot as the snubber passes through the chock.
The netting? I tied them on when I installed the lifelines. They have been really handy! They merely loop over the lifeline and tie to the toerail with a half hitch.
Those are used in place of using the correct line. If the line doesn’t have enough stretch, the rubber bugger will help induce some elasticity; or you could use the right kind of line and make the snubber out of three lay rope.
@@RiggingDoctor it is only a short piece of rope, it will not have that much elasticity. These rubber snubbers are used all the time for mooring lines, which resist much less force than an anchor snubber, I can't really see a disadvantage in using one for anchoring. Nylon rope may stretch 15-20%, but it also breaks when it reaches its maximum stretch, isn't it better to let a rubber snubber take the stretch instead?
I would not run the snubber off my bow spree... to much stress on it... I made a snubber bridle (rope vee) that goes though the dock line holes/chocks to the deck cleats.
The snubber transfers the load from the windlass to the cleats. As for the load going through the bowsprit, this all depends on how your ground tackle is setup. Some boats have the anchor off the tip of the bowsprit, where the load is transferred through the rigging to the stern via the headstay and backstays, some boats have it come off the top of the stem. If it looks like too much load on a particular point, you can always relocate the force by routing the snubber differently
I used to do that and make a bridle out of it with the knot in the middle. The standing and bitter end came back to the port and starboard cleats. This worked, but tying with such a long tail was a pain and very unnecessary. Having just 12” of tail and a single line coming to the cleat has held us in very challenging situations. When it gets really nasty, I will tie a second snubber that is at rest unless the primary one breaks and thankfully it has never come into service. The worst anchoring we had was about two weeks in Gibraltar where it was blowing 45ft it’s steady and we were on the wrong side of the harbor. All the fetch was coming in and we were rolling! The correct side to be on was an industrial port so we couldn’t anchor there. It was rough and our single snubber did just fine (it was about 30’ long for that ordeal). After that, I haven’t bothered with setting a bridle, only a secondary if the need arises.
@@RiggingDoctor wow. i think this was a great subject to bring up. these are the little things that a lot of channels miss. thanks for the idea. Jeff from @sailingskyward
It works great on rope too. I have used it as a recovery to take the load off a winch (and onto another winch) when I got an override. It holds incredibly well and unlike the rolling hitch, is easy to untie when you are done with it.
On sizing it seems most would use line sizing that allows stretch at less than anchor holding limits. So normally not equivalent to the rope size on your chain rode.
Very true. I like to use a “travel size” dock line size as a starting point. Travel size dock lines are not as thick as your permanent mooring lines so that they can stow more easily, and as a result have much more stretch than a thicker “home port” dock line.
I switched from a bridle to a single line because I was having trouble getting the forces on both to be even. My bow is pretty narrow and the boat would end up sailing around at anchor a lot more. In very heavy weather conditions, I will set up a second snubber as a backup to the primary, but still in a line to keep the boat from sailing around as badly.
Nice. But you have it the wrong way round. The direction of pull should be in the opposite direction. The load should be crossing the two turns and away from the working end.
I have seen it listed as “must be used in this direction” and some people swear by one direction, others the other direction. In this direction, the knot distorts and puts a bend in the line which really helps it grip. The way you describe relies on the knot being very tight as the knot will not distort and the line it is grabbing will stay straight. On chain, I really like the kink it develops as it makes it 100% impossible to slip.
Nope. Use a rolling hitch. There is a very good reason why it has been used for centuries. I didnt see or hear any advantage. More important, DONT put it through the bow roller. A snubber should go to a cleat, or a post if you have one. I also suspect it is the wrong way round. The 'bite' should be when pulled against the double loop.
Each boat leads them the way that’s best. Through a chock causes us to sail around too much at anchor, but through the stout roller and we stay still. It is tied off at the bow cleat which is properly backed. The biggest advantage to the Magnus hitch over a rolling hitch is the ease to untie after it’s been loaded. I’ve been tying it to anchor for the past 10 years and have had no issues with the chain slipping in the knot. If you have a rope rode, you might need the extra grip from a rolling hitch, but a Magnus hitch tied this way will cause the rode to bend in the knot and increase the friction (and holding ability). I think it hasn’t caught on because the Magnus hitch isn’t on the standard knots list that boaters learn, but just because it’s rare doesn’t mean that it’s not better 😌
I really hate to be a party pooper but there is so much wrong with this video I'm concerned that people are taking it as gospel. Why do you need a snubber? Snatch loading. That's it. High wind in a protected anchorage will give little snatch load as snatch loading comes mainly with swell, big waves means big snatch loads on the anchor and chain. The risk is breaking out the anchor (smaller risk with a well set modern anchor like a rockna) and snapping the chain. If you have a performance boat the boat may 'hunt around' on anchor , that is the now swinging violently from side to side and then coming up hard on the scope. What is correct is that you need nylon, 10mms is fine for say a 46ft monohull up to about 40 kts if it is long enough, after that I would go to 14mm. I recommend that the snubber is deployed using a claw type book as this spreads the stress across the shoulders of the chain equally. It will not fall off! It also allows you to easily reset when you decide to deploy more scope of your chain. I personally take my snubbed back to the mid clear and always have the full length deployed across the deck and down to the chain. This means that if the wind gets up all you have to do is ease more chain to create more catenerary/loop. I saw a short snubber on a boat snap in a busy in Antigua just last week. If you want to learn more on anchoring I recommend earl hinz book anchoring and mooring techs Good luck everyone!
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I was so excited to learn a new knot. When you were done, I recognized it as a taut line hitch I learned in boy scouts 50 years ago to keep tent lines .. well .. taut. Because it holds in one direction, but loosens in the other.
I may not have learned a new knot, but I learned a new use for an old knot. 🤓🦊
Thanks for sharing.
👍
Love the fact that I learn something every time Herbie talks. That's what keeps me watching.
😁
These .types of videos are exactly why I watch you guys. Thanks
You’re welcome 😎
Thanks! Great tip on that knot.
Did not expect to have to use it so fast but worked great and super easy.
👍
The Magnus Hitch was new to me. Definitely looks easier to untie than a Rolling Hitch.
Only thing is that all the references I can see show that pull should be in the opposite direction (ie pulling across the first 2 turns). I wonder if that kinks the chain a little less.
You are right, I also just studied this. And also found the gripping sailors hitch that should be even better.
Subscribed. Chartering in a few days and want to be sure I anchor safely and be sure to not damage the boat.
Herbie I like the technical tip videos. Thanks!
I have learned a new knot, I will try it today, thanks
Not sure about the need for stretch given you have the catenary of the chain which acts to absorb the shocks of the blow on the anchor, BUT… using a snubber is good practice as it relieves the pressure on the windlass AND if you’re sleeping in the forepeak and the boat is swinging, saves the grinding of the chain on the bow roller
Hello there. How bout when wind and and waves are coming from different angles ? ie. waves wrapping around an island , can snub further aft so bow is to waves. I've used to great success . Taught to me years ago by a long time cruiser
Sorry. Meant to add for Rolly island anchorage
What you are describing is called an anchor bridle: th-cam.com/video/hAdQ0_xMsX8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=h8orgHhMkyhH-8hD
nicely done.
Thank you. But I have a feeling that you are tying the knot in the wrong direction, so the load is pulling in the wrong direction. It can be found in Ashley's book of knots number 1736, where it is indeed described as a superior variation of the rolling hitch, but not that way round!
You are correct about the direction of pull being the other way around.
If you tie it correctly, with the round turn on the other side of the knot, the knot will not distort and I have had issues where the knot has slipped on the chain (as well as on lines when using it to recover from a winch override).
When you tie it backwards, like I showed, the knot will distort and create a 90° bend in the chain (or line that it is tied to) which will drastically increase the friction of the knot and also its ability to hold its place. Tying it like this, I have never had it slip and when untying it after being loaded it is effortlessly untied, unlike the rolling hitch is after being loaded.
notice that too and thanks for clarifying @@RiggingDoctor
Great info
Thanks
So a boyscout tent line knot
Apparently so! The knot is the same but it doesn’t make a loop like a proper taut line hitch.
I use a rolling hitch and that works too, haven't had an issue in up to 50 knots. I'll have a look at the Magnus hitch too and see how she goes. i hate chain hooks!
Chain hooks are the worst! They always seem to fall off at the most critical times!!
They suk
Nice vid guys as usual. I’m sure you probably know about sensor cleaning. That will help the annoying spots at small apertures.
Sadly we didn’t notice the spots until after a long time, then thought we cleaned them off, but we didn’t get the spots!
I can say that they are now cleaned off!
Going to try this next time at anchor! I normally use a stainless shackle to join my nylon rode's eye spice to the anchor chain. Works but does cause a small chafe point. - other good point of the snubber is less echoes through the hull when tension takes up. Better for sleep
Very true! When we have found ourselves in calm waters with a strong current, sometimes we will choose not to use the snubber so we can “hear” if the anchor starts dragging. The snubber does block that sound out completely!
Always informative, Semper Fi and Erin go Braugh
👍
👍🏼 You are a wonderful teacher and I for one appreciate the review of the basics that many of us forget or never learned.
A good alternative are climbing grade carabineers instead of knots. Also good for tying dinghy quickly.
They are very handy!
It's been a while since I last bought a climbing karabiner, but back then they topped out at around 25 kN. They're designed to survive the dynamic load of a falling human, not a boat. It would need to be a pretty small boat and pretty benign conditions.
Hey folks, I noticed a screenshot for anchor watch... Which app do you prefer for that?
It’s the anchor watch that came with our Vesper AIS in the XB8000. I didn’t know it would have an anchor watch until I installed it and found it! It works very reliably too.
@@RiggingDoctor Ah, the Vesper! It does advertise a lot of neat features like this. I was enticed by the vesper cortex (is this the one you got?) as we do need to replace our aging VHF, and we don't have AIS yet-- but I wasn't sure if it was quite worth the investment since we aren't ocean crossing just on the great lakes.
Do you like it, then?
@@RiggingDoctor Woops, I see now the XB8000 is the device. Way less expensive, will evaluate that one too, thanks!
Great video!
Thnk you. Good video. You're the first person to note the directional part of the Magnus hitch. It makes sense. I will use this! The only question I have is that with a taught-line hitch the double loop goes on the side that is being pulled whereas you put the double loop on the other side. Why would it be different for Magnus? Thank you for a great video though!
The correct way is with the two loops on the side of the direction of pull. The reason I use it backwards is the knot then distorts the chain which adds even further security. The chain can easily bend and not be harmed, and this kink makes the rope hold even more securely.
Great job man.
Thanks!
I love your channel and your teaching. I am new to knot tying and I love this knot but a book I have says that a magnus hitch is more like a clove hitch with an extra turn. To me this looks more like a cow hitch with one extra turn. Love the videos and thanks. 👍
You are correct, the rolling hitch is a clove hitch with an extra turn.
That's a great idea, the Magness Hitch work out fine. That would have worked well, where is the other end of the rope hooked to?
The other end is on the bow cleat. Having the snubber also takes all the load off the windlass and chain stopper.
You know this is my kind of video! ❤❤❤🇺🇸🇧🇫⛵⚓
Is there a rule of thumb for diameter of snubber to boat weight? Boats with more windage need bigger snubber?
You already trust that your chain won't snap, right? So, choosing a snubber with about the same breaking load as the chain would be just fine. Not so thin that it can break in a storm (chafe notwithstanding), not so thick that it'll have too little stretch
Very good points.
I like to start off with a snubber that is the same diameter as your travel dock lines. Home port docklines tend to be thicker to hold up to any weather conditions that arise while you are away, while travel dock lines tend to be thinner so that they stow more easily and because you are there to address any issues that might arise should foul weather arrive while traveling.
@@RiggingDoctor
Hah - so that begs the question, how do you size your dock lines? We’re buying a boat (44’ on deck, 32000#s dry) and I don’t want to go s large that it doesn’t stretch or so thing that it breaks.
@@owentribe6095I don't know the answer for sure, but I guess you could do worse than look at the load that your deck cleats are rated for.
You'll want to check whether the rated load is the ultimate breaking point, or the working load, and choose the strength of your line accordingly.
You could also consider the size of your cleats and choose the line diameter which matches them.
Another approach would be based on climbing. Dynamic loads from typical falls are around ten times the climbers body weight, and then you double that to get the breaking strength of your ropes. So if you weigh 160 lb, you would want a rope rated for a dynamic load of at least 3000 lb. (And with appropriate stretch characteristics, abrasion resistence, water repellency, hand, etc etc).
It would be interesting to compare that with the strength of your dock lines - I suspect the dynamic loading factor would be higher in a big blow, depending on windage, the dock's wind shadow, etc. Then again, you might be able to add more lines to spread the load.
Shouldnt the working end end up lower down the chain not higher aa you did it?
I use your hitch, but it seems to me that this hitch is closer to a two turn version of the three turn icicle hitch rather than a Magnus hitch. The icicle is Evaluated by practical sailor, pasted below. If all the load is taken up at the lock as you have suggested, I think the PS test would still apply and supports your approach.
>>>>>>>>>>>
“Icicle Hitch
The strongest of the rope-end hitches tested, the icicle hitch never slipped and weakened the rope less than the others. However, it is very tricky to tie with one hand. It is not difficult to release.
Bottom line: This is a secure knot. We recommend the icicle hitch for those who want to keep their knot-tying skills sharp and don’t mind making extra effort for security.”
I loved reading about that knot. That article inspired me to look at knots from a different viewpoint. I used to think “they have all been invented” but that showed me that they haven’t and that the physics of knots can be employed for a variety of uses. I actually have it tied in a few places on the boat and those have held for over a decade now. Such a cool knot!
Another great video. Thank you
You’re welcome!
Herbie, I'm pretty sure the load should be pulling against the two cinch loops and not against the half hitch as you tied it. Regardless, thank you, I'm going to use this... correctly. This is also a perfect hitch to use to free up a winch for whatever reason 😐... I could've used this a few weeks back, lol
On chain it works in either direction.
When tied correctly, the knot holds its shape and slips more easily. When tied the wrong way (this way) it deforms and makes a bend in the line or chain and really holds firmly.
@@RiggingDoctor Thanks for replying, I knew in the back of my mind you'd have some reason for what you did. On my practice line, I did notice it deforming and kinking, securing it, but not sure I could trust that for a good nights sleep
Thanks Herb. 👍
Interesting! Good luck on your license. 👍You're already a good teacher
Thank you!
Great advice! I appreciate your tutorials. ❤️
Do you have a recommendation on how to pick a properly-sized dock line for the snubber? It doesn't look like it's taking the full weight of the chain nor the boat, so can you use a smaller line than your normal docklines, or, since it's going to be flexing continually under load, is it better to go with a larger and stronger line-size? Should you try to match your line to your chain, or does that not matter?
Can you go too far, say with a 3" hawser? 😉
That’s an excellent question. I like to start off with the same diameter as my travel dock lines. They are thinner than my home port dock lines to make stowage easier, but still strong enough to hold the boat. This is a good starting point for the snubber.
As you mentioned, it will constantly be working and stretching so it will wear out. I view snubbers as a consumable and when they start to look worn out, I replace them.
By tying a knot to the chain and a clear hitch to the boat, you also get to move the point of contact with the bow of the boat to spread out the wear to make the snubber last longer as well. With a hook and a splice, the length is fixed and the chafe point will always be in the same spot as the snubber passes through the chock.
Can you please show how you dis the lines between the toe rail and the life lines ? Thank you 👍🤙
The netting? I tied them on when I installed the lifelines. They have been really handy! They merely loop over the lifeline and tie to the toerail with a half hitch.
@@RiggingDoctor thank you!!!! We had nets for the animals but the way you did it looks much better
Love the knowledge share. I would pay to sail with a teacher like u..mot lightly said
I’m working on my captain’s license so that I can do just that!
@@RiggingDoctor dude the way you teach and explain
Sticks bc u make it “simple” er
What about using one of those rubber shock absorbers on the line?
Those are used in place of using the correct line. If the line doesn’t have enough stretch, the rubber bugger will help induce some elasticity; or you could use the right kind of line and make the snubber out of three lay rope.
@@RiggingDoctor it is only a short piece of rope, it will not have that much elasticity. These rubber snubbers are used all the time for mooring lines, which resist much less force than an anchor snubber, I can't really see a disadvantage in using one for anchoring. Nylon rope may stretch 15-20%, but it also breaks when it reaches its maximum stretch, isn't it better to let a rubber snubber take the stretch instead?
I would not run the snubber off my bow spree... to much stress on it... I made a snubber bridle (rope vee) that goes though the dock line holes/chocks to the deck cleats.
Does it really decrease the load on the cleats or just transfer it…….?
The snubber transfers the load from the windlass to the cleats.
As for the load going through the bowsprit, this all depends on how your ground tackle is setup.
Some boats have the anchor off the tip of the bowsprit, where the load is transferred through the rigging to the stern via the headstay and backstays, some boats have it come off the top of the stem. If it looks like too much load on a particular point, you can always relocate the force by routing the snubber differently
Can you use this hitch with the "bitter end" and the standing end being tied off at the bow cleats?
I used to do that and make a bridle out of it with the knot in the middle. The standing and bitter end came back to the port and starboard cleats.
This worked, but tying with such a long tail was a pain and very unnecessary. Having just 12” of tail and a single line coming to the cleat has held us in very challenging situations. When it gets really nasty, I will tie a second snubber that is at rest unless the primary one breaks and thankfully it has never come into service.
The worst anchoring we had was about two weeks in Gibraltar where it was blowing 45ft it’s steady and we were on the wrong side of the harbor. All the fetch was coming in and we were rolling! The correct side to be on was an industrial port so we couldn’t anchor there. It was rough and our single snubber did just fine (it was about 30’ long for that ordeal).
After that, I haven’t bothered with setting a bridle, only a secondary if the need arises.
@@RiggingDoctor wow. i think this was a great subject to bring up. these are the little things that a lot of channels miss. thanks for the idea. Jeff from @sailingskyward
Does the magnus hitch only work on an all-chain rode or can it be used on the rope of a combination rode setup? Thanks for always teaching us... :)
It works great on rope too. I have used it as a recovery to take the load off a winch (and onto another winch) when I got an override. It holds incredibly well and unlike the rolling hitch, is easy to untie when you are done with it.
Thanks guys love the how to videos
You are very welcome :)
Thanks!
GOOD FOR YOU! YOU WORE THE PROPER DAY MARK. ((BLACK BALL)
Your are not anchored until it’s up 😉
On sizing it seems most would use line sizing that allows stretch at less than anchor holding limits. So normally not equivalent to the rope size on your chain rode.
Very true. I like to use a “travel size” dock line size as a starting point. Travel size dock lines are not as thick as your permanent mooring lines so that they can stow more easily, and as a result have much more stretch than a thicker “home port” dock line.
Most sailors use too short of a snubber!!! Also a bridle is best. Thanks Herbie.
I switched from a bridle to a single line because I was having trouble getting the forces on both to be even. My bow is pretty narrow and the boat would end up sailing around at anchor a lot more.
In very heavy weather conditions, I will set up a second snubber as a backup to the primary, but still in a line to keep the boat from sailing around as badly.
What about when a big wave comes and you shout “WAVE!” and the dog puts its paw up
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I always use a rolling hitch
You should give the Magnus hitch a try and report back about what you like and dislike of each for a snubber.
the hook has never fault on me but when the weather gets ruff i do the same after increasing my scope.
Hooks are a lot easier for the quick and simple anchoring times
Does this info apply to catamarans using bridles ?
Most do, also helps against searching over a single snubber.
Very good question. It sure does. I like to think of it as “each bow gets a snubber”.
Good anchoring technique Heriberto but that chains looking a little rusty
It’s been well used and in desperate need of being regalvanized.
Nice. But you have it the wrong way round. The direction of pull should be in the opposite direction. The load should be crossing the two turns and away from the working end.
I have seen it listed as “must be used in this direction” and some people swear by one direction, others the other direction.
In this direction, the knot distorts and puts a bend in the line which really helps it grip. The way you describe relies on the knot being very tight as the knot will not distort and the line it is grabbing will stay straight.
On chain, I really like the kink it develops as it makes it 100% impossible to slip.
My Favorite kind!!! Seems like I've seen this before. Heck, I've seen them all. Maybe I'm getting to old and just think I have! LOL. 🤣🤣🤣 🙏❤🇺🇸⛵⛑🤙
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Nope. Use a rolling hitch. There is a very good reason why it has been used for centuries. I didnt see or hear any advantage. More important, DONT put it through the bow roller. A snubber should go to a cleat, or a post if you have one. I also suspect it is the wrong way round. The 'bite' should be when pulled against the double loop.
Each boat leads them the way that’s best. Through a chock causes us to sail around too much at anchor, but through the stout roller and we stay still.
It is tied off at the bow cleat which is properly backed.
The biggest advantage to the Magnus hitch over a rolling hitch is the ease to untie after it’s been loaded. I’ve been tying it to anchor for the past 10 years and have had no issues with the chain slipping in the knot.
If you have a rope rode, you might need the extra grip from a rolling hitch, but a Magnus hitch tied this way will cause the rode to bend in the knot and increase the friction (and holding ability).
I think it hasn’t caught on because the Magnus hitch isn’t on the standard knots list that boaters learn, but just because it’s rare doesn’t mean that it’s not better 😌
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I really hate to be a party pooper but there is so much wrong with this video I'm concerned that people are taking it as gospel. Why do you need a snubber? Snatch loading. That's it. High wind in a protected anchorage will give little snatch load as snatch loading comes mainly with swell, big waves means big snatch loads on the anchor and chain. The risk is breaking out the anchor (smaller risk with a well set modern anchor like a rockna) and snapping the chain. If you have a performance boat the boat may 'hunt around' on anchor , that is the now swinging violently from side to side and then coming up hard on the scope.
What is correct is that you need nylon, 10mms is fine for say a 46ft monohull up to about 40 kts if it is long enough, after that I would go to 14mm. I recommend that the snubber is deployed using a claw type book as this spreads the stress across the shoulders of the chain equally. It will not fall off! It also allows you to easily reset when you decide to deploy more scope of your chain. I personally take my snubbed back to the mid clear and always have the full length deployed across the deck and down to the chain. This means that if the wind gets up all you have to do is ease more chain to create more catenerary/loop.
I saw a short snubber on a boat snap in a busy in Antigua just last week. If you want to learn more on anchoring I recommend earl hinz book anchoring and mooring techs
Good luck everyone!
Sorry, auto correct but I hope it makes sense
Just don’t anchor in front of me is all I ask.
isn't that a prussic knot?