I would say it depends on your setup. Our bow roller is integrated into a very robust bow sprit. I think the cleats would pull out before it gave away. So we run snubber out through it. But doing a bridle from bow cleats outside the roller can work great too. When our boat swings on anchor, with the snubber out the roller, it doesn’t chafe against the bowsprit and its hardware.
Pretty good - however i think you should always use a bridle - the reason for using a bridle is not because 2 cleats is stronger than one, but because anchoring to 2 cleats close to halves the force applied to each cleat (depending on the bridle angle), over time this can make a big difference to your deck hardware. You also want the connection to the bridal to be "free" so that it will always equalise, with your setup i think it's possible for the boat to swing in a way that puts all the force on one cleat even with the bridle.
Hi Tom, very useful video (as usual!). The way you use snubbers corresponds to what I have planned for my boat so I am more confident to implement the system, thanks.
An interesting solution. Here in the UK it is common to put a metal hook through the chain. The hook is attached to a much longer line - ideally an old rock climbing rope as they are designed to stretch far more than anything we use in the sailing world - the line is then attached to either the midships or aft cleat. The result is you have far more stretch in the snubber to absorb all the snatch loads. I wonder if because we are usually sailing between 50 and 60 degrees north we have this way of doing it?
Yes, we have seen the use of the hook. We will try the climbing rope - thanks for the tip. We would certainly take a much longer line back further on the boat in very heavy conditions but we would probably tie it around the base of the mast ... somewhere central on the boat. If something happens where the line jumps out of the anchor line channel on the bow, having the line tied to one side or the other could run the risk of putting strain on the bow pulpit stanchions.
Very clear and very helpful, thank you! I noticed that you set the anchor with reverse throttle after you’ve attached the snubber. This does make sense, but in the event that the anchor drags under reverse, is there a need to take of the snubber completely before retrieving the anchor and dropping it again?
We used to set the anchor in reverse before attaching the snubber but we found it was shock loading the windlass too much. So yes if for some reason we drag while setting the anchor, we take a few extra moments to remove the snubber before raising the anchor and trying the set again. It is a small price to pay for a longer life windlass. As you refine your anchor skills you might find that you quite rarely drag when setting the anchor too, so the snubber can stay in place.
Great content! New Sub! Looking forward to digesting your library and new vids, as well. Thanks for the effort to educate our sailing community, it matters! ✌️🙏
Everyone has a different view on an ideal snubber set-up but most of it is hearsay and guess work. I suggest doing the maths on rode sizing as a starting point, understanding nylon breaking strain, stretch and loads on anchor in varying wins speeds. I highly recommend an old book by Earl Hinz, the complete book of anchoring and mooring techniques. This is not a criticism of the technique in this video, what every works for you personally is great but my quite extensive experience has led me to the following set-up based on a 46ft performance yacht.. Snubber for loads up to 40kts sustained winds is 10mms nylon. 3 strand is best but can become very hard to handle so braided is what I now use. 10m long taken through a block that hangs under the bow roller extension (keeps it aligned to the chain on the roller without worrying about chafe and rubbing on the stem). Back though the centre of the bow cleat to a low-end cleat where it is made off. A claw type chain hook is used (mantus do a nice one but others are just as good but whichever it must engage on the chain shoulders). When set allow a decent catenery / droop on the chain so that when the snubbed stretches (can be several meters) there is just enough to allow the chain to just take the load. As in the video it is important that the load is taken off the windlass. To do this have a strong point in the bow locker with a over sized dyneema strop with another chain hook the is engaged just ahead of the windlass. Give a bit of slack between the two so the pressure comes on the strip not the windlass. For winds over 40kts I have a 14mm nylon 3 strand bridal that goes across each now cleat. Hope these ideas help and add to your interesting video
Should stay with nylon three strand. Even nylon double braids are designed for less stretch. The cores are straight fibers and so are designed to have little stretch. the outer layer is mostly chafe and UV protection for core. Do not use polyester if you like stretch.
Thanks James for sharing your setup. I agree it is good to think through the size of line vis-a-vis the predicted wind. We have found that the 8 plait nylon shown in the video works well for stretch and stores nicely when not in use. Fair winds!
Agreed … can totally be a pain. We work very hard to make sure we don’t drag but occasionally the right conditions arise and we find we are not holding. If we have to re-set, we may use a magnus or rolling hitch until we have confidence in our set then we may switch over to a soft shackle and longer bridle for the overnight hours.
In many cases, a lot of ‘hooks’ to the chain can work. However, when you anchor in a tidal waterway, your chain can get wound upon itself and having hard equipment through a chain link can become problematic. The equipment can get pinched or inadvertently released.
When you say ‘chain hook’ are you meaning that you use a chain hook and line for your snubber (which I know is quite common) or that you hook your trip line onto your chain? If it is the latter, could you describe a bit more so I can get a sense of how a chain hook helps you free up a stuck anchor or just how you use this. Thanks in advance for any clarification you can provide.
@@LifeFourPointZero We have 5/16 “ chain and I have a chain hook I hook to my chain. The hook is attached to line which is a bridle. Once set I back down. Finally I let another 3-4 ft of chain out. We carry 100 ft of chain plus an additional 100 ft of line. Our boat is a 35ft power boat. The chain hook and bridle is about 6 ft long. I hope this explains my set up. I like your video. Anchoring is such a controversial subject. Most of our friends don’t anchor anymore. Seems people prefer the safety of a slip. People are getting lazy.
@@HWCism ah, thanks! Yes, we have seen the hook and bridal used very successfully as a snubber. I thought that is what you were referring to. We still love to anchor as long as there are ways to get ashore for land exploration. However, we have been in Norway and Sweden for the last year-plus and there are so many accessible and reasonably priced guest docks that we also have gotten a bit soft! Hope you are enjoying your summer!
Thanks, but we didn't see how to use the tripline if the anchor is fouled and isn't coming up with the chain rode. Do you feed it over the bow roller and back to a winch so you can (hopefully) haul up the stuck anchor? My windlass has a capstan drum on top, which I could probably use for this purpose if the anchor it's stuck too hard.
This gives us a great idea for when we get back into clear water in a year or so .., we’ll record using the trip line from swimming above it with an underwater camera. Actually, it typically does not take a big amount of effort as the trip line is secured to the top of the anchor and pulling the anchor out from this different angle sort of backs the anchor out from its stuck position. You would actually want to let out a small amount of anchor rode then pull on the trip line. Certainly, if it is too hard to hand pull you could use a windlass/winch but keep in mind this line is typically not an incredibly thick/strong line so you would want to take care not to break it. Unless the anchor is somehow stuck below a boulder (which isn’t an impossibly), it will often come free quite easily by the trip line.
Thank you. Anchoring has always been my problem. I'm a singlehanded sailor on a swan 47 so it's a fire drill for me. At 36,000 lbs a good bite is important BUT that means breaking it free is harder when it's time to go. Any suggestions ? Thanks again.
Yeah, they can really get stuck in at times. We find that giving the windless a bit of a break once you get it to the point that you are trying to release it from bottom is key. Sometimes this will have you swing around a bit and pull it from a slightly different angle, which helps loosen it. Then we pulse the windless ... pressing 'UP' for a second or two then stopping ... pressing 'UP' again for a moment then stopping. This back and forth seems to help and it puts minimal strain on the windless. Hope this helps.
@@Oops-IMeantToDoThat nope - red lights on your boat are on your port side. You might be thinking of ‘red, right, return’? It’s true that In the US, you keep the red bouys on your right as you return to a harbor. However, this is not the case for the world over! All of our time in Europe we have had to think ‘Green, Right, Return’. Snubber - our ‘storm’ snubber is for heavy winds/seas but not a full gale or hurricane … clearly those situations would call for much longer or, frankly, hauling your boat out of the water. When we say ‘storm’, we are not using the British/beaufort scale nomenclature. Cleats - yes, symmetrical along centerline but our boat has our anchor chain channel off-set from the center. We expected each person to be able to see what we did for our specific boat and then adjust to their own specs.
Great video. What break strength (and/or quality) is that soft shackle that you are using to tie up to the anchor chain ? We started using the anchor ball last season and since that time we have had less boats dropping their anchor over our anchor chain and that is a great advantage. Obviously in ports you are not going to use it, saw Paxos passing by, there is no way you can use it there. However in all other bays where charter boats come in by the dozens in the afternoon, it makes it easier to let them know where our anchor is, which is (many times) not in front of our bow.
Hi Endless Summer. I am not onboard at the moment, but I recall it was a 1/4 inch/6mm dynemma, so a breaking strength around 10,000lbs. Dynemma is amazing strong line and you can't go wrong using it for various snubber setups. And yes you have to use some discretion when setting out an anchor ball, but when you do, it really helps both mark the position and recover a fouled anchor. Good luck!
0:41 It appears the rolling hitch isn't proper, the 2nd turn should pass over the first turn and the working end comes up between the 2nd turn and the standing part. This binds the 1st turn.
Sharp eye, WaterTrails! While this was not intended to be a video on tying rolling hitches (there's plenty on YT for that..), we are aware there are a couple variations on the rolling hitch, one of which is as you kindly point out, by binding the first wrap. We tend to use the variation shown here, th-cam.com/video/OX_kU_jYecU/w-d-xo.html, for no particular reason other than it has worked well for us. Happy sailing!
We lived on our sailboat for many winters. I don’t remember how many anchor balls I cut off. Loosing a dingy prop at night was not my fun….. nobody needs to know where you dropped the hook!!
Stay away from dyneema like lines. They are designed to not stretch. Why have a bridle if you not increase stretch or shockabsorbing? And stay with three strand nylon lines vs. Braided or Polyester for shock absorbing. Polyester is better for UV resistance but shock absorbing is the goal here not longevity from sun. Not much of a bridle if both lines do not leave vessel. Better to go outboard from each cleat and not to center bowroller. Have to add rubstrakes at each point and use chafe gear. Do not use any rubber or vinyl hose.
Just to be clear, the dynemma in our setup is not for stretch but for strength as a soft shackle, which we have found to be perfect for connecting the snubber to the chain. Then our nylon line (8 plait) provides the stretch. We use the same material for our docklines and not only does it stretch well, it stores nicely with less kinking.
If I have to be kind and respectful then. If you are watching this vid to make your life easier then learn what NOT to do. Putting out TH-cam content regularly can be difficult.
Sorry that bothered you. It’s important when spending multiple months in countries that use a different system that we use and get used to their system … I guess we got too used to it!! 🤓
@@LifeFourPointZero just giving ya a difficult time lol But every time someone measures in metric I get a headache from doing the math conversions. Why can nothing be simple lol
Interesting set-up for the snubber. I normally don't run the snubber out the roller to reduce load on the roller.
I would say it depends on your setup. Our bow roller is integrated into a very robust bow sprit. I think the cleats would pull out before it gave away. So we run snubber out through it. But doing a bridle from bow cleats outside the roller can work great too. When our boat swings on anchor, with the snubber out the roller, it doesn’t chafe against the bowsprit and its hardware.
Thank you so much for your time, knowledge, and for uploading the video.
Glad it was helpful!
Pretty good - however i think you should always use a bridle - the reason for using a bridle is not because 2 cleats is stronger than one, but because anchoring to 2 cleats close to halves the force applied to each cleat (depending on the bridle angle), over time this can make a big difference to your deck hardware. You also want the connection to the bridal to be "free" so that it will always equalise, with your setup i think it's possible for the boat to swing in a way that puts all the force on one cleat even with the bridle.
Thanks - you make some good points.
Excellent!
Glad you liked it!
Hi Tom, very useful video (as usual!). The way you use snubbers corresponds to what I have planned for my boat so I am more confident to implement the system, thanks.
Glad you found it useful! Thanks for watching.
An interesting solution. Here in the UK it is common to put a metal hook through the chain. The hook is attached to a much longer line - ideally an old rock climbing rope as they are designed to stretch far more than anything we use in the sailing world - the line is then attached to either the midships or aft cleat. The result is you have far more stretch in the snubber to absorb all the snatch loads.
I wonder if because we are usually sailing between 50 and 60 degrees north we have this way of doing it?
Yes, we have seen the use of the hook. We will try the climbing rope - thanks for the tip. We would certainly take a much longer line back further on the boat in very heavy conditions but we would probably tie it around the base of the mast ... somewhere central on the boat. If something happens where the line jumps out of the anchor line channel on the bow, having the line tied to one side or the other could run the risk of putting strain on the bow pulpit stanchions.
Make sure to let people know that some climbing ropes are just if not more no stretch than marine use lines. And stay away from dyneema like lines.
Yes - important information. Thanks for adding this.
Very clear and very helpful, thank you! I noticed that you set the anchor with reverse throttle after you’ve attached the snubber. This does make sense, but in the event that the anchor drags under reverse, is there a need to take of the snubber completely before retrieving the anchor and dropping it again?
We used to set the anchor in reverse before attaching the snubber but we found it was shock loading the windlass too much. So yes if for some reason we drag while setting the anchor, we take a few extra moments to remove the snubber before raising the anchor and trying the set again. It is a small price to pay for a longer life windlass. As you refine your anchor skills you might find that you quite rarely drag when setting the anchor too, so the snubber can stay in place.
Love it thank you.
You are welcome!
Great content! New Sub! Looking forward to digesting your library and new vids, as well. Thanks for the effort to educate our sailing community, it matters! ✌️🙏
Thank you so much! ☺️
Good stuff, next maybe a bit on anchor sentinels.
Thanks for the suggestion Pocketfarmer!
Everyone has a different view on an ideal snubber set-up but most of it is hearsay and guess work. I suggest doing the maths on rode sizing as a starting point, understanding nylon breaking strain, stretch and loads on anchor in varying wins speeds. I highly recommend an old book by Earl Hinz, the complete book of anchoring and mooring techniques. This is not a criticism of the technique in this video, what every works for you personally is great but my quite extensive experience has led me to the following set-up based on a 46ft performance yacht..
Snubber for loads up to 40kts sustained winds is 10mms nylon. 3 strand is best but can become very hard to handle so braided is what I now use. 10m long taken through a block that hangs under the bow roller extension (keeps it aligned to the chain on the roller without worrying about chafe and rubbing on the stem). Back though the centre of the bow cleat to a low-end cleat where it is made off. A claw type chain hook is used (mantus do a nice one but others are just as good but whichever it must engage on the chain shoulders).
When set allow a decent catenery / droop on the chain so that when the snubbed stretches (can be several meters) there is just enough to allow the chain to just take the load. As in the video it is important that the load is taken off the windlass. To do this have a strong point in the bow locker with a over sized dyneema strop with another chain hook the is engaged just ahead of the windlass. Give a bit of slack between the two so the pressure comes on the strip not the windlass.
For winds over 40kts I have a 14mm nylon 3 strand bridal that goes across each now cleat.
Hope these ideas help and add to your interesting video
Sorry, not low end clear - mid cleat
Should stay with nylon three strand. Even nylon double braids are designed for less stretch. The cores are straight fibers and so are designed to have little stretch. the outer layer is mostly chafe and UV protection for core. Do not use polyester if you like stretch.
Thanks James for sharing your setup. I agree it is good to think through the size of line vis-a-vis the predicted wind. We have found that the 8 plait nylon shown in the video works well for stretch and stores nicely when not in use. Fair winds!
I have found a chain hook and a 25 ft bridle is a pain if your anchor drags. I have simplified with a Magnus hitch.
Agreed … can totally be a pain. We work very hard to make sure we don’t drag but occasionally the right conditions arise and we find we are not holding. If we have to re-set, we may use a magnus or rolling hitch until we have confidence in our set then we may switch over to a soft shackle and longer bridle for the overnight hours.
Great information. Buy why not just use a caribiner to attach to the chain?
In many cases, a lot of ‘hooks’ to the chain can work. However, when you anchor in a tidal waterway, your chain can get wound upon itself and having hard equipment through a chain link can become problematic. The equipment can get pinched or inadvertently released.
We have a trip line and we use a chain hook. Works for us.
When you say ‘chain hook’ are you meaning that you use a chain hook and line for your snubber (which I know is quite common) or that you hook your trip line onto your chain? If it is the latter, could you describe a bit more so I can get a sense of how a chain hook helps you free up a stuck anchor or just how you use this. Thanks in advance for any clarification you can provide.
@@LifeFourPointZero We have 5/16 “ chain and I have a chain hook I hook to my chain. The hook is attached to line which is a bridle. Once set I back down. Finally I let another 3-4 ft of chain out. We carry 100 ft of chain plus an additional 100 ft of line. Our boat is a 35ft power boat. The chain hook and bridle is about 6 ft long. I hope this explains my set up. I like your video. Anchoring is such a controversial subject. Most of our friends don’t anchor anymore. Seems people prefer the safety of a slip. People are getting lazy.
@@HWCism ah, thanks! Yes, we have seen the hook and bridal used very successfully as a snubber. I thought that is what you were referring to.
We still love to anchor as long as there are ways to get ashore for land exploration. However, we have been in Norway and Sweden for the last year-plus and there are so many accessible and reasonably priced guest docks that we also have gotten a bit soft! Hope you are enjoying your summer!
Dziękujemy.
Thanks so much! Glad you found our content useful.
Thanks, but we didn't see how to use the tripline if the anchor is fouled and isn't coming up with the chain rode. Do you feed it over the bow roller and back to a winch so you can (hopefully) haul up the stuck anchor? My windlass has a capstan drum on top, which I could probably use for this purpose if the anchor it's stuck too hard.
This gives us a great idea for when we get back into clear water in a year or so .., we’ll record using the trip line from swimming above it with an underwater camera.
Actually, it typically does not take a big amount of effort as the trip line is secured to the top of the anchor and pulling the anchor out from this different angle sort of backs the anchor out from its stuck position.
You would actually want to let out a small amount of anchor rode then pull on the trip line. Certainly, if it is too hard to hand pull you could use a windlass/winch but keep in mind this line is typically not an incredibly thick/strong line so you would want to take care not to break it.
Unless the anchor is somehow stuck below a boulder (which isn’t an impossibly), it will often come free quite easily by the trip line.
Thanks. I’m making one from 1/4” dyneema - it would float without the weighted bitter end.
Cheers!
Thank you. Anchoring has always been my problem. I'm a singlehanded sailor on a swan 47 so it's a fire drill for me. At 36,000 lbs a good bite is important BUT that means breaking it free is harder when it's time to go. Any suggestions ? Thanks again.
Yeah, they can really get stuck in at times. We find that giving the windless a bit of a break once you get it to the point that you are trying to release it from bottom is key. Sometimes this will have you swing around a bit and pull it from a slightly different angle, which helps loosen it. Then we pulse the windless ... pressing 'UP' for a second or two then stopping ... pressing 'UP' again for a moment then stopping. This back and forth seems to help and it puts minimal strain on the windless. Hope this helps.
Thank you. I'll give it a shot. Much appreciated.@@LifeFourPointZero
I thought Red was starboard (storm snubber)? And, why isc1 longer? Aren't cleats symmetrically along centerline?
@@Oops-IMeantToDoThat nope - red lights on your boat are on your port side. You might be thinking of ‘red, right, return’? It’s true that In the US, you keep the red bouys on your right as you return to a harbor. However, this is not the case for the world over! All of our time in Europe we have had to think ‘Green, Right, Return’.
Snubber - our ‘storm’ snubber is for heavy winds/seas but not a full gale or hurricane … clearly those situations would call for much longer or, frankly, hauling your boat out of the water. When we say ‘storm’, we are not using the British/beaufort scale nomenclature.
Cleats - yes, symmetrical along centerline but our boat has our anchor chain channel off-set from the center. We expected each person to be able to see what we did for our specific boat and then adjust to their own specs.
Great video. What break strength (and/or quality) is that soft shackle that you are using to tie up to the anchor chain ?
We started using the anchor ball last season and since that time we have had less boats dropping their anchor over our anchor chain and that is a great advantage. Obviously in ports you are not going to use it, saw Paxos passing by, there is no way you can use it there. However in all other bays where charter boats come in by the dozens in the afternoon, it makes it easier to let them know where our anchor is, which is (many times) not in front of our bow.
Hi Endless Summer. I am not onboard at the moment, but I recall it was a 1/4 inch/6mm dynemma, so a breaking strength around 10,000lbs. Dynemma is amazing strong line and you can't go wrong using it for various snubber setups. And yes you have to use some discretion when setting out an anchor ball, but when you do, it really helps both mark the position and recover a fouled anchor. Good luck!
@@LifeFourPointZero That should be more than enough indeed. It works a lot faster than the SS snubber we use.
I have used the pulley at the anchor buoy before. Not worth for me. Also I use a kellet on the anchor line. I like it
We haven’t tried a kettle … maybe we should!
👍
diy anchor?
0:41 It appears the rolling hitch isn't proper, the 2nd turn should pass over the first turn and the working end comes up between the 2nd turn and the standing part. This binds the 1st turn.
Sharp eye, WaterTrails! While this was not intended to be a video on tying rolling hitches (there's plenty on YT for that..), we are aware there are a couple variations on the rolling hitch, one of which is as you kindly point out, by binding the first wrap. We tend to use the variation shown here, th-cam.com/video/OX_kU_jYecU/w-d-xo.html, for no particular reason other than it has worked well for us. Happy sailing!
We lived on our sailboat for many winters. I don’t remember how many anchor balls I cut off. Loosing a dingy prop at night was not my fun….. nobody needs to know where you dropped the hook!!
@@bikesbees9392 couldn’t agree more! I see their value as a trip line when anchoring in ‘dirty’ sea beds but not for any other purpose.
@@bikesbees9392 how many anchors did you lose?
@chadbrunton3373 - knock on something, we have never lost an anchor! We have had some difficulties raising them on occasion but haven’t lost one.
Stay away from dyneema like lines. They are designed to not stretch. Why have a bridle if you not increase stretch or shockabsorbing?
And stay with three strand nylon lines vs. Braided or Polyester for shock absorbing. Polyester is better for UV resistance but shock absorbing is the goal here not longevity from sun. Not much of a bridle if both lines do not leave vessel. Better to go outboard from each cleat and not to center bowroller.
Have to add rubstrakes at each point and use chafe gear. Do not use any rubber or vinyl hose.
Just to be clear, the dynemma in our setup is not for stretch but for strength as a soft shackle, which we have found to be perfect for connecting the snubber to the chain. Then our nylon line (8 plait) provides the stretch. We use the same material for our docklines and not only does it stretch well, it stores nicely with less kinking.
@LifeFourPointZero why not just connect you nylon to chain directly? Less connection, I think is better.
If I have to be kind and respectful then. If you are watching this vid to make your life easier then learn what NOT to do. Putting out TH-cam content regularly can be difficult.
Stopped watching when an American mentioned meters instead of feet. 😂
Sorry that bothered you. It’s important when spending multiple months in countries that use a different system that we use and get used to their system … I guess we got too used to it!! 🤓
@@LifeFourPointZero fair enough but we Americans haven't used the metric system since 1776 lmfao
@@LifeFourPointZero just giving ya a difficult time lol
But every time someone measures in metric I get a headache from doing the math conversions. Why can nothing be simple lol
@@jasonwright808 haha - agreed!!
@@jasonwright808 we went to war over taxes from Mother England, but the Imperial units is ours forevs!
I have used the pulley at the anchor buoy before. Not worth for me. Also I use a kellet on the anchor line. I like it
Thanks for that - we haven’t tried that yet. We’ll look into it.