Outboard primer bulbs
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ธ.ค. 2016
- In this video we look at why holding an outboard primer bulb vertically makes it work better. This is because gravity acts on the one-way ball valves helping them to close.
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That was, by far, the best illustration and description of how the fuel line primer bulb functions. I am a university professor in the US, and you are a masterful teacher. Well done, you!!
I broke down in the Intracoastal Waterway this morning due to a faulty primer bulb. It wasn't until I returned home and autopsied it, that I discovered the bulb had some type of plastic liner, presumably to protect it from ethanol fuel. That liner had degraded and blocked the valve going to the engine and was starving it - it was three years old. I removed the liner and it works perfectly. I could kick myself because I left my spare at home. I had to get towed in and it wasn't cheap. I will always have a spare this day forward. Thanks for the video, Stu!
Ah, the spare you need is always the one that is at home.
@@DangarMarineyup unfortunately same thing happened too me yesterday but I had a small tank with hose just incase but when I got it started I didn’t feel like taking everything apart in 5 6 foot seas but yes made it home 10 mph if I gave it gas it would stall so I just left it low speed made it back thank god no tow but yes now I know how a primer ball works thanks again bro 😎
Hey, Stu. Not sure if you'll see this... but I love watching your videos. Out of many small-engine/outboard channels on youtube, you give the "how" and "why" things work the way they do. I have resurrected a mercury 25... which I would not have done without the help of your channel! Keep the great content coming... It never gets old!
Once again great info when I'm looking on TH-cam I can never really find what I'm looking for then I watch your's and you always have just the info that I need and am looking for. You da Man...
Stu , this is another brilliant video. I love knowing how every element of the boat and motor work. You are a fantastic teacher and not a bad artist!
Many thanks!
I just want to say thank you. I needed more fuel than I had on hand to keep my generator running from Hurricane Ida. I was fighting to get fuel out the bulb and couldn’t get a hose into the tank. Something so simple as holding the bulb straight up allowed me to get 10 gallons out which will keep my fridge and fan running for another 2-3 days. Thank you again.
Desperate and now 12noon 24th Dec. when all marine repair shops are closed for the festive season its just lucky to come across this video to offer a solution to why I could not start my Honda 45 outboard being that fuel not getting into carburetor. Your video info is very timely. I have got now a new bulb primer and will rep;lace that 10yr old rubber primer very soon. Crossing my finger this would solve the problem. Thanks a lot and merry Christmas to you !
I hope the new primer bulb solves your problem Jack, if not, check all the fuel lines for obstructions as well as the valves in the fuel pump. Good luck and have a great Christmas!
I installed a new bulb today and couldn't get it to pump at all. Before I went to buy another one, I watched this video and poof, the vertical pumping trick worked like a charm! Thanks for saving me $20 and frustration time!
Hi Dangar thanks for explaining the priming bulb. very helpful mate.
I had an issue this morning with a brand new outboard and fuel hose .the hose was already connected to the tank with arrow pointing in correct direction,so the other end could only go to outboard.
1st time use since picking it up from dealer.
spent an hour trying to start it.
I went home gutted after being at boat ramp at 5.am on maiden voyage.
The problem was the arrow indicating the flow direction was wrong.
I removed the primer and tried the test you showed on your video with stubby.
The bulb worked only when arrow was facing into the stubby not going out of it.
Grrr. Definitely a fail in assembley line.
keep the videos coming cheers🍺
Great video . Most people don't know this..
Having it vertical rather than horizontal helps expel air from the bulb also (air pocket floats to top of bulb and expelled instantly)
Great description on how a primer bulb works, and you didn't mess up once, well done. kirk from Annapolis, MD. on the Chesapeake Bay.
Thanks Kirk. Not messing up all comes down to the editing. ;)
Excellent explanation! Love your videos man, keep it up, learn new things every time I see one! About to address fuel line issues on a 60ELPTEFI. Rotten gray lines. Getting upgraded lines, and filters, carbs cleaned, lower serviced with an impeller kit. Bit late getting in the water this year, too busy at work!
Glad you liked the vid. Upgrading your fuel lines is definitely a worthwhile thing to do.
thank you for cutting the bulb and the valves for us.. appreciate it..
As always very helpful keep up the great vids Stu
Thanks Mitch.
Well I never thought to hold the primer in a vertical position but it makes sense! I have a good running outboard but primer bulb issues after replacing it. Will give it a shot!
Keep primer bulb about 13 inches away from the gas tank get primer bulb that goes with your engine I had no problem after
Thanks Stu, you saved my sanity again! The bulb was intermittently priming and I couldn't figure it out. As you said old bulb, weak springs, as soon as it held it arrow up, bingo....primed in seconds.....thanks.
Glad it helped
Great tip. I did not know about the ball and spring inside of the primer bulb. Thanks
You're welcome. :)
That just eliminated the next 4,000 steps I was going to try to get the lines primed. Now I can move on to find out why the Bugger won't start. Thanks Mate!
Good luck mate, hope you figure it out!
Excellent video, Stu... thanks again!
Thanks Ray.
Duuuuude, you have no idea how this helped me figure out my issue...Thanks much
Glad I could help!
Perfect explanation Stu. Thanks
Thanks heaps! I mean it. It is becoming a hardwired reflex when the Tohatsu starts behaving ... Gotta go check Dangar!
Thanks mate, I moved my portable tank to the front of my tinny and made a new fuel line myself.
Could not get it primed then I watched this video and pointed the primer bulb arrow upwards and guess what,she primed.
Love your work
Thanks again
Brett
More time saved by watching another Dangar video. Thanks Much!!!!
I swore there was something else wrong with my bulb, but after holding it vertical as you state in the video, it started working right away!
Love your work mate.
Thanks Fabian!
Great video as usual 👌
Great video Stu!!
Thanks Will. :)
Another awesome video, Thank You
Great video Stu. 👍
Thanks mate. :)
Good stuff as always!
Thanks David!
Excellent explanation
Looked on the webs everyone says replace this troubleshoot that!!Stu says turn the thing up now my brand new one i thought about replacing works fine!!!Thanks Stu!!
You're welcome. :)
Fantastic video....as a boat owner of 20 years I just squeezed the bulb to death till it felt hard to prime my motors...now I know how it actually works.....cheers for the tips..
Thanks David, glad you learned something from it. :)
Amen brother I never knew why it wouldn’t get hard on my 225 evinruide I was dead in the water finally got it started but could only do about 10 mph in but made it safe always love learning from you because you break everything down for us best video on primer ball hands down stay blessed brother 🙏💪💪
Quality video really well explained
Nice as always. You seem to always release a new video the same exact time im doing (or trying lol) to my motor!! Last time it was the merc fuel pump the same day i got the parts in. And TODAY I got my new Merc primer bulb in from ups! I was just researching the whole vertical bulb install all day today, Lol. The previous boat owner had an Attwood bulb that was really old and from the forums plenty of people say to always get an OEM bulb because the valves apparently aren't as good aftermarket. I just opened the new merc bulb and it sure as hell feels and looks of way better quality. The previous owner obviously lied to me about not using Ethanol because the attwood grey fuel line was FILLED with those yellow chunky ethanol remains and the inside(clear) liner was eating sh#!. Im gonna do like you told me before and get some new A1 line from an auto store to replace. Now that i got the bulb in i can knock it out now! Thanks again and can you please post the link again for the Dangar shirts? The shirts do get shipped to the US right?
If I keep releasing videos just as you need them I'll make sure I don't do any more of raising sunk boats then! ;) OEM bulbs do generally appear to be of a higher quality but I have also bought some Scepter ones that seemed quite good. You can get shirts from dangarmarine.com.au/collections/merchandise/products/dangar-marine-t-shirt and they are printed in the US so you should get them faster than we do!
LOL!! Im ordering today..I don't have a facebook account to send picture with the shirt. I can post it on youtube i think(im pretty bad at newer technology) But ima post my pic with the Dangar shirt with my boat when i get it in. Again thanks for everything you...I hope you realize how much you help people out and are the best at explaining and covering all concers n questions!!! If there is a boating world trophy you deserve it!
Great explanation! I have a 1978 15 hp johnson. I had an old fuel line and bulb that when you squeezed it, it wouldn't reinflate (would take 1 min to reinflate). I bought a new line and bulb...same thing happens, won't inflate. Any idea of what could be going on? It also will only run with the choke all the way out, so i will be cleaning the carb and replacing the carb seals. Thanks again for the video!
Appreciate that. I’ll change it that way you said
thank you sir for this !!
Great video (as always).
Glad you enjoyed it
Truth! I thought the primer bulbs were NFG but the vertical tip solved everything.
Answered all my questions, had been trying to prime with arrow pointing down.Seems logical once you have watched video. Simple thing but has caused me a lot of starting problems. Off to the boat to try.
Hope you get your starting problems sorted. :)
Awesome! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the video - Great tip!
Hope it helps you! :)
Thanks! Question: I am replacing a broken primer bulb on a 70 hp Force outboard. The fuel line on the fuel tank side is black, like rubber. The line on the engine side is yellow, like nylon. Most of the assemblies I find for sale are black on both sides of the bulb. Can I use these? Or should I be making sure to use yellow nylon fuel line on the engine side like it has now?
That's a hell of a way to pour a beer lol🍺
A new upload, right on!
:)
Neat !! Thanks for posting
i had a general idea, but this visual example.. Great work as always!
Thanks mate, it's always great to see things apart I find.
a question (if i might ..)
I have an 1997 Mercury 8hp (US cross-flow) in a very good condition
pictub.club/image/ssVWB2
pictub.club/image/ssVoMm
pictub.club/image/ssVpc7
it was recently imported from Japan as an used engine... It has very low hours on it i guess
1 thing is bugging me. If i try to see the crankshaft "side-play" on the flywheel, i can feel a tiny bit of side movement in certain positions IF the engine is cold, and had not runned a while.. But! after the start, and a few rev this sideplay is dissapering, and feel firm meaning no side-play on the flywheel when it's "hot, or runned a bit"
this engine has 2 roller needle bearing, and 1 ball beraing on the crankshaft
pictub.club/image/ssksoU (this picture is just an illustration;)
IS it possible that this type of bearing assembly have some "heat expand" feature?
i mean it's idles great, and run great with no hearable distortion at all. (i have some experience with outboards in general so i can spot is something wrong by ear wise;)
really don't want to tear a part just because of it... just it's strange, and the lower unit prop shaft bushing is rock solid no play, even i can feel that the oil seals are "tight" around the shaft meaning not worned out by excessive use
Thanks Stu, another very informative video, I have a couple questions. I need to change my line and bulb... I don't know if it is a 3/8" or 5/16" setup? and don't want to dismantle until I have the new line and bulb. line feeds a 25HP Mariner, so my guess is 5/16" line. Is there any way to know without dismantling? no ID numbers on line. Boat is still being used. and if you can recommend a good brand that would be appreciated too. I understand that some of the lines sold today do not fulfill fuel usage standards.
Another one of many great videos! Thank you! I have a quick question, the bulb is not supposed to remain hard while the engine is running, is it? I'm thinking it is normal for the primer bulb to loose the firmness once the engine is running and fuel is flowing. Is this correct? Thanks again for the GREAT videos!
Thank you sir for the explanation, thank you so much.
You're welcome!
Couldn't get a solid bulb. Tried this and it worked right away. Thanks mate!
You're welcome. :)
Hi mate what happens when I speed up the line comes off the motor.
Brilliant thank you !
You have enough knowledge to be dangarous...for boat gremlins, that is. (sorry, couldn't resist) Thanks.
U saved me $$$
Thanks mate
I have a 175 evinrude fitch injection I took it to repair it 3 times and still the same problem,they told me it was the computer they repair it and nothing.i didn’t make it out of the no wake zone, and I was trying to start it and I did but the only way it will start is if I keep squeezing the bolb and if I stop the motor stops.any ideas ?
I know this is a very old video and I'm late with the comment. Another GREAT video!
Well done..
Well I did not know that , thanks for info !
Welcome. :)
Thank you
Thanks.
I have a 2004 40 merc 4 stroke was bogging down now idles smooth but when i give more throtle engine dies,couldit be one ofthe fuel pumps ireplaced fuel filter n new fuel hose n new bulb.
Will you cut open the new epa rated bulbs from Attwood and other cheap bulbs are selling . They have a thin plastic liner that is suppose to keep the ethanol from eating the rubber . Whats been happening is the liners are breaking lose and blocking the flow of the gas . You can pump it and it forces gas out but once you start going down the lake the liner starts to block the flow of gas making you think you have a carb problem when its because of the bulb liner . I bought a mercury one after I started reading about it and the problem stopped and it runs great now . It was the stupid brand new cheap attwood bulb .This just started in 2018 when they changed something with the epa .
Thanks for this informative video. I bought a brand new boat in 2013 with a 100l underfloor tank and a Yamaha 115 2 stroke saltwater series outboard. Ever since new, the boat has never held its prime. If the motor is stopped for more than a minute or two, it will cut out when restarted after the carbies run dry. If I prime before starting its fine, just a pain to have prime every start. I initially suspected the primer bulb so changed it myself but made no difference. The dealer then changed the bulb again at the first service after I reported the problem but still no difference. I have checked everywhere I know for air leaks etc. and all looks good. I ended up fitting a fuel line non return valve at the tank take off and this mainly works, although often gets foreign matter under the seat so needs a lot of cleaning.
After seeing your video, it seems to me the primer bulb should have good enough non return valves to prevent my problem. Given that I’m on my third primer bulb (bulb located after filter/separator) and the problem is still there, my question is do you have any thoughts on a solution to the problem? Is the quality of the NRVs better is some bulbs than others? Any help appreciated. Regards Daryl
It's odd that it has always had this problem so bad. You could consider making a bracket so that the bulb sits against the transom in the vertical position, that will no doubt help. If you are getting foreign matter in the non-return valve you installed, you are no doubt getting it in the primer bulb valve too. Perhaps also installing an inline filter before the bulb would help?
Thanks for your reply stu. The primer bulb is upstream of the filter/separator so shouldn't be getting any foreign matter in it. I agree it's a weird problem as I have had boats for years and never seen this problem... I am going to buy a Yamaha OEM primer bulb (hoping for better quality), mount it vertically and see how it goes. I do general servicing myself but if I need any repairs or major work, I will be certainly seeking out your services. Thanks for your great videos.
am already in my camping place near the beach with my baot and my pump have a little cut and i dont know how to fix it
Question??? Does the Primer Bulb go in between the Fuel tank to water separator or Water separator tor to fuel pump if that makes sense.... or does it even matter the direction?
Great vid. Fuel issue. New pump and carb rebuild done. Motor stays running only when primer is pumped. The two hoses attached to the bulb. Should the shorter one be closer to the engine making the bulb closer. ? The shorter hose is at the tank making the bulb farther away from engine. Would this matter ?
It shouldn't matter that much, still sounds like something is wrong with the fuel pump or hoses.
quick question my fuel tanks are up the bow of my tinny would that extra run of fuel line make it take a while to get up to revs? (on plane) i have installed new plugs and cleaned fuel filter and run new fuel through it and it still not right (thinking maybe carbs need a tune) but yer thort id ask about the long fuel lines? also good vid :)
Hi mate, no having the tanks up in the bow isn't a problem. Many people do for good weight distribution. I'd be looking at a carb clean to start with.
cheers mate now to watch ur carb cleaning vid lol
I changed out my old primer bulb and hose because my motor kept pulling the lob bulb flat. I also put in a fuel water separation filter and changed all the old hose but it is still doing the same thing only this time if I just let the motor idle the bulb fills back up with fuel. Help can’t figure it out
I disagree that it is mostly gravity that is the issue with the pump action. I believe a contributing factor could be air inside the bulb not evacuating if the bulb is held horizontal. If bulb was horizontal, mostly filled with air, the pump action would compress the air volume and vacuum the air volume and the action would not be efficient. Also, the the dry valves will not seal well until fuel gets to them. Either case two factors help..... Hold pointing up and as low as you can get it (lower than tank if can).
Could this be an issue at higher rpms and not giving the outboard enough fuel? My outboard runs great at low rpms and at idle but once I get to 3000 rpms it bogs down.
You ever fix this? Having this same issue
Great explanation. My setup is with the primer bulb in vertical but after two or three years, not exposed to sunlight the Yamaha bulb is still like new/soft but the bottom check valve goes bad. I was thinking of adding separate in-line check valves. Any thoughts?
You could, but given how cheap primer bulbs are it is probably easier just to swap it for a new one.
Does it matter if the bulb is closer to the outboard than the fuel tank?
Question: not getting fuel to primer bulb. I ran a new fuel line from pickup to primer bub area. took the pick up tube out and it was clear. put a thread sealant and replaced the barbed fitting to pickup tube. has gas any other ideas? when i put gas in tank tank is below deck so when i put gas in the gunnel area, it does not flow as easy as i think it should and can back up. I blew air from outside side of boat tank vent and air went in. lost and seeing if you have some idea thanks, Brian
Where could I get a shirt
I have a question today I toke my boat for the first spin, I have and V6 Evinrude
175hp what happend is that everything was going well but when I speed up to max speed the engine slow down like gas was not flowing in carb and after a second speed up again why that happen
It does sound like fuel flow, unless the changes in speed are quite sudden in which case it could be that you are losing spark on one cylinder. If it feel more like fuel I would check all the fuel lines for splits and cracks, make sure the breather is open on the fuel tank, clean the carbs and inspect the diagram in the fuel pump.
My115 yamah 4 strokes will not stay primed
Any ideas
When installing a new inline water separator filter, and it is behind the primer bulb do the primer bulbs prime the filter , do the primers go hard when primed or is it normal for one the feel the same when priming vs primed?
I have a 1 month old one of these lines for 6hp Johnson. Basically it’s completely filled with gas but none will go to my engine. I’ve depressed each end to try and open them up but nothing. Is the bulb messed up?
On my 4 stroke df140 if I’m switched off for over half hour or so I need to prime the bulb to start otherwise it just cranks without starting. Is this because my bulb sits horizontally allowing fuel to flow back to the tank?
It's a big weird at the carburettor bowl should stay full still. A new bulb is a good cheap place to start.
NICE VIDEO! A lot of people don't use these primer bulbs correctly. They must be in a vertical position with arrow facing up. Horizontal position ( INCORRECT)
Shucks you wasted good beer!
Would a faulty bulb cause issues during wide open throttle or heavy acceleration? I’ve always had issues keeping the bulb solid when priming. But it starts and runs first pull it’s just once I get above about half throttle or accelerate hard up to it, it seems to starve itself and die. I can keep it running if I am constantly pumping it.
Sounds more like a faulty fuel pump or spit in the fuel line sucking air in.
Is it better to put the primer bulb closer to the engine or can it be at the front of the boat by the driver-tank is under the bow.
Also forgot to mention would it be ok putting a water separater on a fuel hose... my out boards don't have the space for them in the cowlings... thinking just after the primer... something clear with a screw to drain water out like a 250ml bottle
Yep, that's fine. I've got a video on installing a water separating fuel filter in line.
thank you so much. so today I took the boat for labor day For the life of me I couldn't get the bulb to tighten up. tried for over 15 minutes. finally I gave up, loaded the boat back up and went home. once at home, I figured I might as well figure it out. I squeezed the bulb and within 3 pumps, solid as a brick. hmm. WTH, here's the thing I realized after your video, at home I was standing OUTSIDE of the boat and I (without realizing) pumped it vertically, at least that's what I'm guessing. so thank you so much
Holding it straight up also means the top valve is held closed by the weight of some fuel in the line *and* if it does leak a bit you get fuel back into the bulb, not air.
I know this video is an oldie, but i found it very interesting! I have a lot of trouble getting, and keeping my ball hard!😯😜 LOL I have a 4 year old Yamaha F40LEHA 4 stroke and I can squeeze that thing all i want and it stays relatively soft. Everything is like new and I only have about 37 hours on the motor. I will give it it a go in the vertical up position and see what happens. Should it remain firm during operation?
Hello I have 5 hp mercury outboard 2 stroke I want to know you have rebuilt carburetor video I need to clean mine
Hi Del, this one might help you th-cam.com/video/P2YbFcejV3g/w-d-xo.html
is it possible to replace the primer bulb by putting a low pressure 12v pump and have a switch mounted on console. I am 78y/o hands have lost strength and not easy to continue getting out of seat and climbing back to engine.
Yep, I can't see why not, plenty of carburetted engines have then. So long as it doesn't overpower the needle and seat it should be fine.
Nice video
Thanks Dean.:)
Thankyou
Does that kind of pump could be mounted in the fuel car system for good? I have problem with my old Volvo with mechanical pump if not using car often.
They can add a bit of resistance into the fuel system. A simple 12v automotive pump may be a better option.
Hi Stu. Why does a primer bulb need to be squeezed at all? I see that initially (like when new water separator is installed ) you need to force fuel up into lines to prime up the low pressure fuel pump, but why after the engine sits a few days the bulb needs to be squeezed again? My bulb does "deflate" and I go ahead and prime before starting, but my motor is fuel injected so I would think the fuel line a closed system? thx Stu for all the instruction
I only ever squeeze my primer bulb after having run out of fuel. Other than that I just turn the key. Mine is carburetted so the fuel bowls stay full even with the motor tilted up. In your case the VST should stay full of fuel and not require priming.
thx for the reply Stu!! i agree with your comments as well
Whats the proper or best way to setup the Furl Tank to fuel/Water separator to Primer Bulb ? Fuel Tank to Sep to PB or Fuel Tank to PB to Sep ? Thanks.
I have the primer bulb between the water separator and the outboard so I can primer the carbs more directly.
should the primer bulb be in the vertical position when the engine is running and youre done priming?
hi do you know when you are going to keep going with the evinrude rebuild thanks
Hopefully within a week or two.
Hey mate, have you ever done a video on removing that metal collar and plastic spacer above the water pump? Man Having that piece on there is a real pain.how do you get it off and what's the easiest way to get it off. Thanks and love your channel. I've watched almost all of them and your great at explaining things.
Hey Chris, are you talking about the drive shaft bushing up in the leg or something that is attached to the water pump?
Can the orientation make any difference in fuel delivery performance when the engine is running?
It might flow a little better pointing downwards I guess, but so long as the fuel pump is keeping up with the demand you won't notice any difference in performance.