Z1000 Gen 4 Airbox modification
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 พ.ค. 2020
- My first knife and fork editing job but managed to tag some videos together. First and foremost to correct myself. The rsv4 with the newer airbox makes more power above 6.5k not through the whole range. And most importantly just to reiterate if youve got a stock bike then i would not advise this as the bike will run too lean. I dont take any responsibility for blown motors and holed pistons.!
Only do it if....
1. Youve got a full system.
2. Block off kit installed or at least the sas system blocked.
3. Bike has a custom map. (meaning the fueling has been mapped to the bike).
Any questions dont hesitate to ask.
Excellent... i wonder if gaffer tape over the holes in the tray you pointed out would be a lazy mans fix?...
Nice.... The tea tray,gave up for a good cause... Like the seat bud,wicked...
i'm riding a 2017 bike like this and i just removed that 12 hole plate actually increasing the volume of the air box , it makes sense since accumulating more air in the box and thus better performance, and you took it and vice versa reduced it the volume of the air box actually made worse than it was originally. removing just that baffle makes the bike ride noticeably better.
Cool.
did you really feel any power difference? like really noticeable? or not worth taking the risk?
Yep - definately snappier. One of the lads on our forum has been back to the dyno and gained 5bhp through the range....ive not been able to get back yet.....if you want to try get yourself a second hand airbox...theyre very cheap...the only part where you really have to commit is opening up the air intakes on each side to get more air in but again theyre only small panels.
Smoothing things out may not do what you think. That perforated panel is in the box for a reason.
Much like a pickup truck has, "turbulence" in the bed, once air is flowing and a high pressure pocket is created, remaining air flows over that high pressure just fine.
Likely your gains, if any, are from the heat shielding. I'd recommend anyone considering this to simply put a heat shield panel where best and call it a day.
Well. One of my friends has done the mod and put it back on the dyno with a 5 - 8bhp gain through the range. I'm not telling anyone to do it. Just showing what I've done. It's up the viewer to make that decision.
Any updates on testing / thoughts ? I’ve booked mine in for a remap with mss not sure if should do this mod 🤔
Yeah - little bit...so, ive done mine....personally my arse dyno tells me its snappier (as ive said) the more and more ive ridden it, definately....yeah better...since ive done it a few people have done the mod. One of the lads on the z1000 forum has been back to the dyno and has gained 5bhp and 8mn of torque...but he has said that he did do some exhaust work so cant honestly put it down to that....if you did do the mod before you went to the dyno youd never actually know as im guessing youve got other stuff done (can you say whats been done so far?) mine, the last time it was on was 146 at the wheel (full system, single exit, k&n and block off plates). So, when i can afford to go back to the dyno if i see more than 5 ill call that a win. Airbox`s are cheap and for the sake of 20 quid if it was me id do it....put it this way....if youve got the same as me (engine setup) and get plus 150 at the wheel then id say its the airbox mod thats taking you above the 150 mark...
Got a full Akro system 4-2 with piper cross filter, fitting a Kawasaki assist slipper clutch next week got it all here waiting just need the clutch holding tool other then that engine is started. Think I might send your video to Tom at Kawasaki Colchester MSS tuning and see what he reckons he’s done loads of our gen4 group
@@mickeymongiovi1984 Cool....be nice to hear his opinion. I can say nothing more than it feels snappier....but dyno time will tell thr whole story....the beat way would be take 2 airboxes with you....please, come back with the results...really interested to hear how yours goes..
Oh - the other thing is if you dont want to fully commit - remove the air intake grills...that kinda made the difference on mine - once id cut them out so more air was getting it, it made a nice difference...
Comfy Sofa think I may just block off the inside instead of cutting the air box. Another question I’ve noticed with the clutch mod looks at part numbers the clutch push rod and clutch lever rod (on engine casing cover connects to cable) are different part numbers between standard clutch and slipper doesn’t seem you changed yours hoping my going in easy as it’s actually from a z900 part numbers all match apart from different clutch springs 🤞🏻
i dont get it. Why do you open up the box with a dremel tool and then glue a new plastic on? whats the point then?
Because the panel inside (on mine) is perforated...unless i were to fill every hole and glue that in. But the point is that you then dont need the part underneath....cut that off and more airflow is gained across the top of the engine and, theres a sizeable gap then between the "new" bottom of the airbox and the top of the engine meaning that the air thats going into the airbox is going to be cooler going into the throttle bodies as its not being heated, as much, as it was before....
@@comfysofa1549 ah ok i did the other airbox mod to my 2014 withdrilled base. I Also drilled 2 holes in the side on each side. I read a lot about it and some had great response from it. what do you think of that mod?
@@mrconta Well, my old airbox had the holes drilled on the sides....ironically it had to go back on the dyno (at the time) as i switched to a single exit exhaust as the air flow was out. Drilling the holes in the side gave no more power atall (the dyno proved it) however ive not been back since ive done this mod (out of cash as im renovating my late fathers bikes) but i will...mine definately feels snappier. Although when i did the mod i went out on it without cutting out the air intakes and it didnt feel that much different but once id cut the intake to get more air in there...that made the difference !!
@@comfysofa1549 Okey I understand. My plan is to send my ecu tomorrow to Sweden fastbikez for ecu flash and I'm waiting for full exhaust from China, I ordered it from Aliexpress. It was cheap only 129 dollar but many people have bought it and with great reviews so I'm hoping for it instead of Akrapovic 1200dollar.. And then also kn filter with air holes. But you say I must cut off the bottom otherwise I won't feel any difference with drilled holes?
@@mrconta Well, its your choice what to do...AliExpress pipes for 129? usually when its too cheap its for a reason....also check the diameter of the headers up at the front. Ive got arrow race headers and so far they seem to have the largest bore (2mm larger than lextech and Black Widow) per header - thats 8mm across all 4 which is quite alot. With regards to the ecu....they need to know your set up to even remotely have a chance of getting the fueling right and even then i wouldnt be expecting top end figures. The best way is to get it on a dyno with your setup. If sending it off for a flash map is your only option then i would suggest Ivan over in the USA. Mine with a custom map to my bike and, moving the redline up by 500rpm made 146 just so youve got something to go against. While im not a tuner or mechanic i think (from personal experience) drilling the holes did nothing as the air was pulled in. Taking the bottom off the airbox and opening up the intakes "forces" the air in making that little extra difference....
Sheet lexan?
No... Just an old tea tray I cut up...
@@comfysofa1549 but I don't know but how
@@usaamahstreetrider not sure what you mean.... How did I do it?
@@comfysofa1549 yes I need learn
If you watch the video I describe how I did it in there...