Hey, it was very unexpected to see myself, and my advice is to change the usual 10.9 bolts to 12.9) Very grateful, and glad that I helped!) Good luck;)
The thing is that the stock bolts are 12.9 for this ASZ engine code, same as ARL and when i ordered the bolts i receive them and i didn't check them because i didn't think they may be send wrong ones, so you just make me check them and thanks to you i've been able to change them with another genuine 12.9 ones.
10:46 dont do that. Dont put liquid gasket in all the surface of the caps. There is a slot that should never be covered. You only have to apply a small amount of liquid gasket on the outside of the caps, without covering the slot. It is explained with more detail in the official manual.
I know i have the manual, i saw that to late, hopefully its a small amount and wont restrict the oil that supplies the camshaft bearings. To be honest usually i never put the silicone there and never had leaks but this time i did 😅, should be alright, i will check it next time when ill be home.
I had a 1.9 tdi (1Z). The engine start after the assembly in this video reminded me of when the timing belt had skipped one tooth, and the engine was very difficult to start.
😅😅 That isn't the case here mate, im tired to explain everyone why i did started the engine like that, the engine is brand new everything was new without oil inside and without diesel on the sistem, i wanted to start like that to give him time to get oil on the parts before starting
Salutare, ti am urmarit canalul in detaliu si in primul rand vreau sa te felicit pt munca depusa si informatia impartasita cu toti pe gratis, nu ca majoritatea "tunnerilor". In alta ordine de ideei, am inceput si eu sa fac un ASZ pt swap pe un Golf MK5 si am o nedumerire. Se merita sa cumpar pistoane noi Mahle sau sa le tin pe cele OEM, + pompa de ulei recomanzi noua AM sau doare OE, am gasit pe FAI la pret ok dar nu stiu calitatea ei. Mersii!
Salut, daca pistoanele vechi sunt in stare buna nu se merita sa dai o gramada de bani pe altele noi, iar pompa de ulei important e sa fie noua, eu am pus topran, fai nu prea as recomanda.
Bro you learned wrong, learn firstly how to copy, paste and translate what i answered few hundred times to people like you and you will find the reason why i did wanted to start it like that.
Salut Super vidéo ! Poti te rog sa-mi dai si mie cuplurile de strangere pentru paliere axa cu came si pentru cele doua axe care actioneaza injectoarele ? Mersi
Sunt tacheti mecanici cu pastile, am video pe canal cu reglajul, sunt foarte grosi in carne cam 3.5 - 4 mm, pastilele le-am inlocuit noi cand am facut reglajul. A pornit greu pentru ca a stat 1 an desfacuta, injectoare goale, chiuloasa noua, filtru motorina nou, pompa tandem goala, futune goale, tot a fost fara motorina si de asta a pornit asa, plus ca am mai decomprimat si camera de ardere putin si pana isi faca segmentii rodajul o sa porneasca mai greu.
Stai sa vezi ca a durat 5 minute si la mine dar va plictiseam de tot 🤣, ideea e ca e absolut normal sa porneasca greu in conditiile in care chiuloasa a fost noua goala fara motorina in ea, injectoarele goale state de 1 an, furtune de alimentare si pompa tandem goala la fel, filtru de motorina nou gol si el, era normal si stiam ca asa o sa pornească, plus ca motorul este segmentat nou plus decomprimat si asta mai contribuie inca putin la pornire mai grea, deci totul a fost ok si stiam de la inceput ca va porni greu, cine nu intelege nu stie despre ce este vorba.
@@WRCgarage eu am închis zilele trecute un motor de jaguar ingenium 2.0 tot frumos, amorsat injectoare, a pornit apoi sa oprit și nu a mai pornit. Era de la Adblue. M-am speriat oleaca.
Good work!:) Gap between piston rings 0.50 mm? The manufacturer states 0,20-0,40 mm, it's a new engine, I'm thinking of trying a gap of 0,10 mm, but I don't know if it's a good idea.
@WRCgarage is there a way on these engines to test the pcv valve is working correctly? I have a 1.9tdi transporter, blue smoke from exhaust, leak and pressure test all good. Thinking might be the pcv valve stuck open/closed
Hello do you have fuel cooler installed ? If yes, do you use return line ? I gonna install one for my VP37 AFN :) .. or give me feedback where are hoses connected :) thx
Hello mate, for the moment i haven't done anything in that way as this car has already fuel cooler from factory installed, i will have a check and let you know how it's conected on lines .
@@vainopeltokorpi7829I have the same engine and turbo along with other upgrades. If you use pd150 12.9 head bolts, upgrade camshaft, high flow exhaust manifold, 2.5-3 inch exhaust pipe and upgraded injectors you can see over 300hp
Hello, is there a change regarding the tandem pump? I think it is a little different. Did you prefer the one for 2.0 pd engines? what is the reason of this ? I would be very happy if you answer me. I think I am having a problem with this issue.
salut amice, stii care sunt tolerantele marimii arborelui cotit (ASZ), oficial sunt 54mm (la rulmentii principali) si 51mm (la rulmentii de biela), dar VW nu scrie in manualele de service care este rata de uzura, daca ați putea ajuta, aș aprecia că a menționat în următorul videoclip😇
Salut, la arbore jocul axial (stanga-dreapta) trebuie sa fie intre 0.07 si 0.17 mm uzura maximă acceptată 0.37 mm, jocul radial (sus-jos) verificat cu plastigage trebuie sa fie între 0.03 si 0.08 mm iar uzura maximă acceptată este de 0.17 mm
@@WRCgarage multumesc pentru informatii, am arbore cotit si valorile fata de cele oficiale sunt -0,005-0,006 pe ale mele, cu faptul ca rulmentii sunt facuti si pentru uzura arborelui cotit. Multumesc, pot dormi linistit. Cand fac montajul, ci mai degraba masurarea de testare (gabaritul din plastic), va mentionez
@matthewlee2686 I have explained in the video but you haven't been focused, i am gonna use nitrous injection on that engine and the gap should be bigger in that case.
@@WRCgarage was just curious because I'm building a engine now and can't find much info on ring gap. I will be running gtb2260vk and .320 injectors. Will my gap be ok at .45mm?
Yes, no problem, its better to be bigger than specs and not lower as you running on higher boost than stock and much more heat than usual so that's fine.
Hi, they are special made they not come as a kit like all the others wich ar weaker chrome-molly 8740. Just go on the website where i get them and order from there, they dont have these anymore due to cost of supply but they have even a beeter one stronger than these for same price so just go on website Whitbread performance llc USA and buy from there.
Salut,la un passat b5.5 2004 1.9 tdi 130cp la 140km/h taie pedala,dar nu apare nici un martor in bord.Daca il opresc si il pornesc isi revine,dar dupa daca ii dau iar pana la 140 iar taie pedala.Sentimentul este de larca nu intra turbina si motorul nu arw outere sa se accelereze.Mersi?
Normal nu e, ar trebui doar vapori de ulei sa treaca pe acolo, dar odata ce motorul are ceva uzura incepe sa produca si vapori mai denşi de ulei si de acolo se aduna cate putin ulei, de exemplu eu înainte sa refac motorul asta imi picura pe furtunul de la epurator care este sub masina scos, acum dupa ce am refacut motorul tot jos este scos direct dar nici macar nu se mai umezește, deci conteaza uzura zic, oricum asta nu este un lucru care sa te ingrijoreze atat timp cat motorul merge ok, nu te va deranja chestia asta.
@@WRCgarage motorul e ok. Doar ca am schimbat turbina cu una nou nouță și ma gândeam sa n-o strice din cauza asta...am pus un oil catch can sa previn cat de cât...
Not everyone understands that i did that on purpose to lubricate all the parts with oil before starting, but it's okay. I'll let all the smarties comment as long as i know what I'm doing i'm not bothered.
Salut! La 12:41 vad un senzor de presiune ulei atasat pe un altfel de termoflot. Imi poti spune te rog ce fel de termoflot este? Am si eu un asz si m-am legat cu 3 senzori (temperatura ulei, presiune ulei pt ceas si presiune ulei cel al masinii) din acelasi loc de unde vine senzorul de fabrica pt presiune ulei cu un T luat de pe raceshop si problema e ca as vrea sa-l mut pe cel de temperatura deoarece nu imi indica temperatura corecta de acolo... In mers imi arata maxim 60 de grade iar cand stau pe loc e maxim 80 ceea ce stim cu totii ca nu arata bine :D Ma gandeam sa pun senzorul in baia de ulei ca are filetul majorat la m16 sau sa ma leg cu ceasul direct de senzorul de pe baia de ulei pt ca nu am vazut un termoflot de genul pana acum. Orice sfat e bine venit! Multumesc! (:
Salut, ala mai mare galben este senzor de presiune de la ceasurile prosport, iar adaptorul ala in locul ternoflotului este de la racitorul de ulei auxiliar care duce in radiatorul montat in fata ala mic, este un kit de răcitor de ulei de la G-plus care mai are un adaptor in plus pentru anularea termoflotului oem de tot, pentru ca majoritatea il pastreaza, iti las un link cu ceva asemanator dar nu are si adaptorul de jos in rest e la fel. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/355012384851?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=lmf0ij6xq0i&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=nlA2ZJOUR7m&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Cred ca tie din cauza T - ului iti citeste eronat pentru ca il raceste mai repede din mers pe T-u ca e subtire, incearca sa il pui senzorii direct in termoflot, acolo ai sinpresiunea de ulei, in baie nu ai presiune.
Hello, i already answer many times to this question, everytime i rebuild an engine from 0, i won't start the engine straight away as i want to make sure the oil gets everywhere before start, so i did that on purpose .
Kinda curious as too where your based. Thats a right hand drive car but don't think your in the UK. Why a UK car?. Also what sort of power is that engine putting out
Hello mate, that's in Romania, i live in uk mostly, the car now should be somewhere around 350 hp with that turbocharger that it has on now, but the engine itself as it is now should hold easly 500 hp.
@@WRCgarage am inteles, eu as vrea ceva daily adica nu pt race soft de cai mult..ceva Basic cu o turbina ARL pana în 200 cai. Masina în cauza e un sharan. Tot caut pe cineva care e atent la detalii și folosește dinamometrica..mulți cică o au în mana...și nu găsesc. Și mulți mi au zis ca nu se merita. Piesele OEM sunt sfinte.. alții zic ca merge și after..nici nunstiu ce sa fac. Motorul are 400k masina o am de noua. Am primit info cum ca nu merge doar segmentat și celelalte piese aferente, trebuie honuit și blocul. Nu am probleme. Nu consuma ulei sau ceva...și nu cred ca ar trebui honuit..acum aștept o părere.
Pai trebuie desfăcut prima data sa vezi cum arata cilindrii si dupa iti dai seama daca trebuie sau nu honuit, o honuire usoara cum am facut si eu este simpla de facut si nu costa mai nimic, scula este ieftina si este un avantaj. Iar cu piesele da, trebuie totul nou, nu neapărat oem dar firme cunoscute nu FAI, FEBI sau alte de genul, cauti Elring, goetze, victor reinz, king, glyco, continental, KOLBENSCHMIDT, mahle, etc , suruburi tot nou ce este in interiorul motorului si distributie neaparat noi daca nu vrei sa ai probleme, nu neaparat oem dar sa fie noi, macar la distributie ia oem suruburile si piulitele, in rest nu e mare lucru se face usor .
@@WRCgarage You won't be able to create the perfect cylinder geometry by hand. In addition, the incorrect angle and shape of the hon-risks do not allow the rings to rub in well, contributes to increased wear, etc.
I know exactly want you mean, but that doesn't mean it is a bad thing thinking to the way that my cilynders been before that, because at that time when i did the honing i was on to rebuild the engine so when i saw how bad the cilynders look i decided to do that honing as they been like glass so because i haven't had a spare engine block i did it to be able to finish the build, knowing that i had to find soon another emgine block replacement. So i did about 1k miles or even less with the engine loke that and i haven't had any oil consumption or any other issue then i found another good engine block wich i replace it with another set of new rings and now the engine works sound and good same as before to be honest but at least i have peace of mind.
@Vasiccc I have explained hundred times, when an engine is fully rebuit and empty/dry of oil and diesel you don't want to start that engine in one second, i did wanted to start like that to have time to fill with oil all parts before starting.
Sorry to disappoint you, mate, but the car still works brilliantly without any issues. Only "smart" mechanics do the decking when there's no need for it, which is the biggest stupidity I've seen. I never did it when there was no need, and surprisingly, the engine performs as new.
Look, i don't know if you're idiot or you just pretend but im gonna explain for the last time, im Romanian and you're writing in Rusian and i have to translate it with google translate wich many times it doesn't translate the exaclty frase to understand, so instead to play smart with me write in english so i can understant wtf do you mean, as i've seen many "smarties" like you behind the keyboard ...
Its not good work... scratch In cylinders, weak stock bolts 10. Another user help you thoose better - stronger, used stock pistons with chamber moding. Only forged conn.rod are good and stronger bearnings. Next tip Oil pump with smaller wheel ,produce more Oil pressure. Camshat Type? Hydraulic delete to mechanical converse do highest rev and max boost😊
Listen mr advicer, im not posting this videos to ask your opinion i know very well what im doing and i know exactly what's better and what's not for this engine. Firstly the 10.9 bolts were come in a huge bunch of parts and i have ordered the right part number for 12.9 but unfortunately they came wrong part and i haven't check them, i was lucky as the engine was still on the stand by the time i saw the comment from that user and just change them with new genuine 12.9 ones. Second thing, this is not the first time i build an race engine and i have tested many brands of part by now doing testings on my engines and show others for free whats good and what's not. The 3rd thing i have sayd in my previous videos that im gonna try and test some mods to see how will engine react so the videos that i upload should be for infos if you can get any from them. The camshaft i sayd in other videos its a pipercam 272°, i have all details and link there with the lift specs, then oil pressure i know that what you sayd but at the moment i use the car in very high revs and keeping the huge preasure on the oil sistem its not gonna help me and the oil pump will definately fail much faster, at the moment ive got 10 bar at 90° after 2k rpm so im good. In the end people should understand that these videos should be helpfull for yours and if you can get any good information from them ill be happy if not this is it, you do other videos and show people on your money how to properly do it and let me do them how i know. Thanks !
I did before rebuild 330hp only diesel aswell, and got some good performances but because i wasn't satisfyed with 100-200 time i rebuild the engine again with new upgrades as veicomer full race head, another type of forged conrods, a better camshaft and new design of pistons wich are on testing at the moment. If everything goes well the car should archive around 380 hp diesel only, and with methanol another 20-30 hp extra, and with nitrous probably another 100 hp depending of nozzles and controller. So ill see, the car is still on break in at the moment.
Did you give "like" yourself ? 🤣🤣🤣, when you're waiting for bus to go at work and your only time you saw an engine open is on youtube i understand your frustration.
![⭐️( ลอยกระทง 2024 ) Ver. แดนซ์ Remix BY [ ดีเจกิต รีมิกซ์ ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/rMWOLhgXUHc/mqdefault.jpg)
I did 184,000 hard miles with a tuned PD130 but never got to see inside the engine due to it reliability.
Great video 👍👍👍
@@Puddingtops Thank you ! 😁
Wow it's always amazing for me how a fully rebuild 1.9 tdi engine makes a deep - low pitched cylinder explosion sound compared to an older engine
Hey, it was very unexpected to see myself, and my advice is to change the usual 10.9 bolts to 12.9) Very grateful, and glad that I helped!) Good luck;)
The thing is that the stock bolts are 12.9 for this ASZ engine code, same as ARL and when i ordered the bolts i receive them and i didn't check them because i didn't think they may be send wrong ones, so you just make me check them and thanks to you i've been able to change them with another genuine 12.9 ones.
Hello guys, do you have the part number for connecting rod screw?
There are 3 diff between the two main engines, ASZ and ARL, the turbo, the IC, and the headbolts.
Thats was awesome , you doing work very well good luck to you , greetings from georgia 🇬🇪
Thank you very much ! 🙏
I would like to have your knowledge to fully build my 1.6l TDCI 115, this is an amazing job man 😍
10:46 dont do that. Dont put liquid gasket in all the surface of the caps. There is a slot that should never be covered. You only have to apply a small amount of liquid gasket on the outside of the caps, without covering the slot. It is explained with more detail in the official manual.
I know i have the manual, i saw that to late, hopefully its a small amount and wont restrict the oil that supplies the camshaft bearings.
To be honest usually i never put the silicone there and never had leaks but this time i did 😅, should be alright, i will check it next time when ill be home.
Lol. Everyone has an opinion. The man is building. Let him be.
Foarte frumos lucrat bravo mult respect 💪💪💪
Mulțumesc frumos !
I had a 1.9 tdi (1Z). The engine start after the assembly in this video reminded me of when the timing belt had skipped one tooth, and the engine was very difficult to start.
😅😅 That isn't the case here mate, im tired to explain everyone why i did started the engine like that, the engine is brand new everything was new without oil inside and without diesel on the sistem, i wanted to start like that to give him time to get oil on the parts before starting
I need to build my motor this sounds sick
Super labombastic fantastic Školastic!!!
Bom sendo aficionada pelos metores tdi de 130cv sendo conhecedor do som desses motores e sendo proprietario de um isso é um tractor a trabalhar.....
Sunt curios care ar fi pretul pt piese si manopera la asa ceva, super oricum.
@@robertalex9433 Daca citești descrierea aflii prețul pieselor 😅
@@WRCgaragee prima oara cand n o citesc, off unde era comoara, mersi mult
I like your video
Salutare, ti am urmarit canalul in detaliu si in primul rand vreau sa te felicit pt munca depusa si informatia impartasita cu toti pe gratis, nu ca majoritatea "tunnerilor".
In alta ordine de ideei, am inceput si eu sa fac un ASZ pt swap pe un Golf MK5 si am o nedumerire. Se merita sa cumpar pistoane noi Mahle sau sa le tin pe cele OEM, + pompa de ulei recomanzi noua AM sau doare OE, am gasit pe FAI la pret ok dar nu stiu calitatea ei. Mersii!
Salut, daca pistoanele vechi sunt in stare buna nu se merita sa dai o gramada de bani pe altele noi, iar pompa de ulei important e sa fie noua, eu am pus topran, fai nu prea as recomanda.
Fai am pus eu noua și în 7000 km a cedat. Nu recomand
Bro, I learned in the past that, wenn a complete new engine doesn't start at the first try? Something it's wrong...
Bro you learned wrong, learn firstly how to copy, paste and translate what i answered few hundred times to people like you and you will find the reason why i did wanted to start it like that.
Very efficient being able to bed in the motor just on initial start up process.😅
🤣🤣🤣 I did it on purpose, i have explained why, but it doesn't matter
nice video
wow a cast iron block with piston cooling jets!!!
Most diesels have them
Nice ! Did you do a rebore of the cylinders and instal larger pistons or remain with the standard bore 79.5mm ?
Just standard 79.5
Salut
Super vidéo !
Poti te rog sa-mi dai si mie cuplurile de strangere pentru paliere axa cu came si pentru cele doua axe care actioneaza injectoarele ?
Mersi
Salut,
Cuplu suruburi capace arbore - 65 nm + 90°
Cuplu suruburi capace axa came - 8nm + 90°
Cuplu suruburi rampe tacheti - 20nm + 90°
@@WRCgarage mersi mult
Bravo 🎉
Frumos lucrat, atent la detalii, dar tachetii aia pareau ca au ceva uzura... Totusi de ce a pornit asa greu?
Sunt tacheti mecanici cu pastile, am video pe canal cu reglajul, sunt foarte grosi in carne cam 3.5 - 4 mm, pastilele le-am inlocuit noi cand am facut reglajul. A pornit greu pentru ca a stat 1 an desfacuta, injectoare goale, chiuloasa noua, filtru motorina nou, pompa tandem goala, futune goale, tot a fost fara motorina si de asta a pornit asa, plus ca am mai decomprimat si camera de ardere putin si pana isi faca segmentii rodajul o sa porneasca mai greu.
@@WRCgarage Majoritatea pornesc prima data offline apoi pe camera pornirea super easy, vai ce bine a mers din prima. Macar aici e real.
Stai sa vezi ca a durat 5 minute si la mine dar va plictiseam de tot 🤣, ideea e ca e absolut normal sa porneasca greu in conditiile in care chiuloasa a fost noua goala fara motorina in ea, injectoarele goale state de 1 an, furtune de alimentare si pompa tandem goala la fel, filtru de motorina nou gol si el, era normal si stiam ca asa o sa pornească, plus ca motorul este segmentat nou plus decomprimat si asta mai contribuie inca putin la pornire mai grea, deci totul a fost ok si stiam de la inceput ca va porni greu, cine nu intelege nu stie despre ce este vorba.
@@WRCgarage eu am închis zilele trecute un motor de jaguar ingenium 2.0 tot frumos, amorsat injectoare, a pornit apoi sa oprit și nu a mai pornit. Era de la Adblue. M-am speriat oleaca.
la pompa tandem ai un surub cu imbus care poti aerisi sistemul de alimentare!@@WRCgarage
Good work!:)
Gap between piston rings 0.50 mm? The manufacturer states 0,20-0,40 mm, it's a new engine, I'm thinking of trying a gap of 0,10 mm, but I don't know if it's a good idea.
@spacedevilcz6885 I will use nitrous on this engine as i sayd on cc so that will be ok for me
@@WRCgarage ohhh :)
Amazing! Should there be a pipe from the PCV valve on the crankcase?
Yes, but it's going to a catch can, then under the car
@WRCgarage is there a way on these engines to test the pcv valve is working correctly? I have a 1.9tdi transporter, blue smoke from exhaust, leak and pressure test all good. Thinking might be the pcv valve stuck open/closed
I don't know if there is any test for them, but you can check if your oil stick jumps out or if you have excessive pressure when you open the oil cap.
Hello do you have fuel cooler installed ? If yes, do you use return line ? I gonna install one for my VP37 AFN :) .. or give me feedback where are hoses connected :) thx
Hello mate, for the moment i haven't done anything in that way as this car has already fuel cooler from factory installed, i will have a check and let you know how it's conected on lines .
💯💥
1.9 TDi - 130hp????
Nice work!!!!
Yes pd130 😁
full stock can hit 125kw, with race head i expected maybe 200hp :/
@@jakub77I got PD130 AVF with GTB2260VK, FMIC, 4Bar Map and tune and it has ~230hp
@@WRCgarageHey friend, how can I contact you ? Email? Whatsapp? I am making a engine build and I have some questions can You help please?
@@vainopeltokorpi7829I have the same engine and turbo along with other upgrades. If you use pd150 12.9 head bolts, upgrade camshaft, high flow exhaust manifold, 2.5-3 inch exhaust pipe and upgraded injectors you can see over 300hp
Hello, is there a change regarding the tandem pump? I think it is a little different. Did you prefer the one for 2.0 pd engines? what is the reason of this ? I would be very happy if you answer me. I think I am having a problem with this issue.
The bosch one i use is a bit higher pressure than the stock LUK, so for me it is a help for a tuned engine as supply the fuell a bit faster.
salut amice, stii care sunt tolerantele marimii arborelui cotit (ASZ), oficial sunt 54mm (la rulmentii principali) si 51mm (la rulmentii de biela), dar VW nu scrie in manualele de service care este rata de uzura, daca ați putea ajuta, aș aprecia că a menționat în următorul videoclip😇
Salut, la arbore jocul axial (stanga-dreapta) trebuie sa fie intre 0.07 si 0.17 mm uzura maximă acceptată 0.37 mm, jocul radial (sus-jos) verificat cu plastigage trebuie sa fie între 0.03 si 0.08 mm iar uzura maximă acceptată este de 0.17 mm
@@WRCgarage multumesc pentru informatii, am arbore cotit si valorile fata de cele oficiale sunt -0,005-0,006 pe ale mele, cu faptul ca rulmentii sunt facuti si pentru uzura arborelui cotit. Multumesc, pot dormi linistit. Cand fac montajul, ci mai degraba masurarea de testare (gabaritul din plastic), va mentionez
Минусовая клемма:подержите моë пиво😂😂😂😂😂
Te salut din nou ..! Pe ce chit de distributi mergi de obicei? Ce curea alegi,ce role,ce pompa de apa ?!
Salut, doar continental, si/sau original
Ignore the ridges, just send it
Dear friend is it difficult to install 2052 in an avf 1.9 engine?thank you very much
What dp you mean by 2052 ? Turbocharger or what ?
Can those turbo be used on the older 2.0 8v citi golf
No mate
Where can you buy pistons if you’ve changed the engine displacement in a 1.9 tdi
The stock pistons you can find them on mostly any online parts shop, the forged pistons just few do it .
@@WRCgarage great, thanks
Hey do you remember what your ring gap was set at?
If you check my videos you will see the video doing that
@@WRCgarage .50mm? Spec is .40mm. It's ok to be at .50mn?
@matthewlee2686 I have explained in the video but you haven't been focused, i am gonna use nitrous injection on that engine and the gap should be bigger in that case.
@@WRCgarage was just curious because I'm building a engine now and can't find much info on ring gap. I will be running gtb2260vk and .320 injectors. Will my gap be ok at .45mm?
Yes, no problem, its better to be bigger than specs and not lower as you running on higher boost than stock and much more heat than usual so that's fine.
Pero amigo,todo lo que pones en este coche es válido para el LEON ARL??
@@erg-su8086 Yes, it is ARL aswell
@@WRCgarage lo que no veo son las referencias de esas piezas,como podría ver cuáles son??
@erg-su8086 Just search for your engine code on any car parts website and choose same brand
Este la garaj la o pasiune?
Nu este, dar puteți sa va abonați fără frică pentru ca si aici e pasiune 😅
Hi, please tell me the number of ARP bolts for this engine
Hi, they are special made they not come as a kit like all the others wich ar weaker chrome-molly 8740. Just go on the website where i get them and order from there, they dont have these anymore due to cost of supply but they have even a beeter one stronger than these for same price so just go on website Whitbread performance llc USA and buy from there.
@@WRCgaragethanks
Salut,la un passat b5.5 2004 1.9 tdi 130cp la 140km/h taie pedala,dar nu apare nici un martor in bord.Daca il opresc si il pornesc isi revine,dar dupa daca ii dau iar pana la 140 iar taie pedala.Sentimentul este de larca nu intra turbina si motorul nu arw outere sa se accelereze.Mersi?
Salut, iti intra in limp mode, posibil sa ai vreun furtun pe partea de boost spart/fisurat si de asta face asa, verifica bine furtunele la turbo.
È la valvola a depressione che c'è prima del waste gate, prova a staccare il tubo sopra il fungo e guarda se aspira.
Salut ! E normal ca pe la filtru epurator din capac sa ajunga ulei spre furtunul care duce in turbo ?
Normal nu e, ar trebui doar vapori de ulei sa treaca pe acolo, dar odata ce motorul are ceva uzura incepe sa produca si vapori mai denşi de ulei si de acolo se aduna cate putin ulei, de exemplu eu înainte sa refac motorul asta imi picura pe furtunul de la epurator care este sub masina scos, acum dupa ce am refacut motorul tot jos este scos direct dar nici macar nu se mai umezește, deci conteaza uzura zic, oricum asta nu este un lucru care sa te ingrijoreze atat timp cat motorul merge ok, nu te va deranja chestia asta.
@@WRCgarage motorul e ok. Doar ca am schimbat turbina cu una nou nouță și ma gândeam sa n-o strice din cauza asta...am pus un oil catch can sa previn cat de cât...
Asa am pus si eu, nu o sa ai probleme din cauza asta.
Why you have the steering on the wrong Side ?
I payd for a normal car and they send me a cheap chinese copy 🤣🤣🤣
Looks like the right side to me ha
It was time for the first oil change by the time the engine started, oh and a new starter. 😂
Not everyone understands that i did that on purpose to lubricate all the parts with oil before starting, but it's okay. I'll let all the smarties comment as long as i know what I'm doing i'm not bothered.
Salut! La 12:41 vad un senzor de presiune ulei atasat pe un altfel de termoflot.
Imi poti spune te rog ce fel de termoflot este? Am si eu un asz si m-am legat cu 3 senzori (temperatura ulei, presiune ulei pt ceas si presiune ulei cel al masinii) din acelasi loc de unde vine senzorul de fabrica pt presiune ulei cu un T luat de pe raceshop si problema e ca as vrea sa-l mut pe cel de temperatura deoarece nu imi indica temperatura corecta de acolo...
In mers imi arata maxim 60 de grade iar cand stau pe loc e maxim 80 ceea ce stim cu totii ca nu arata bine :D
Ma gandeam sa pun senzorul in baia de ulei ca are filetul majorat la m16 sau sa ma leg cu ceasul direct de senzorul de pe baia de ulei pt ca nu am vazut un termoflot de genul pana acum.
Orice sfat e bine venit!
Multumesc! (:
Salut, ala mai mare galben este senzor de presiune de la ceasurile prosport, iar adaptorul ala in locul ternoflotului este de la racitorul de ulei auxiliar care duce in radiatorul montat in fata ala mic, este un kit de răcitor de ulei de la G-plus care mai are un adaptor in plus pentru anularea termoflotului oem de tot, pentru ca majoritatea il pastreaza, iti las un link cu ceva asemanator dar nu are si adaptorul de jos in rest e la fel.
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/355012384851?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=lmf0ij6xq0i&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=nlA2ZJOUR7m&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Cred ca tie din cauza T - ului iti citeste eronat pentru ca il raceste mai repede din mers pe T-u ca e subtire, incearca sa il pui senzorii direct in termoflot, acolo ai sinpresiunea de ulei, in baie nu ai presiune.
Why the car take so long to start ? I dont think its normal
Hello, i already answer many times to this question, everytime i rebuild an engine from 0, i won't start the engine straight away as i want to make sure the oil gets everywhere before start, so i did that on purpose .
Start 🥵🥵🥵🥵
😅
Ну так себе... Маслонасос ЖПГруп я бы не ставил, да и зазор на кольцах надо менять - поглубже кольца в цилиндры вставлять
А что за измерения на шатунных болтах?
Hello, what do you mean the socket size or the bolt ?
@@WRCgarageHi! I wonder what you measured on conrod bolts after tightening them.
The ARP bolts must be tightened to stretch, so I was measuring the stretch after tightening. The stretch is the maximum point before the bolt breaks.
@@WRCgarage thanks, i didn't know about that.
Kinda curious as too where your based. Thats a right hand drive car but don't think your in the UK. Why a UK car?. Also what sort of power is that engine putting out
Hello mate, that's in Romania, i live in uk mostly, the car now should be somewhere around 350 hp with that turbocharger that it has on now, but the engine itself as it is now should hold easly 500 hp.
Stock pistons?
Yes
Salut, as dorii sa fac acelasi lucru la motorul meu, unde va pot contacta ?
Salut, pe instagram !
salut , cat costa un rebuild de genu? cum putem lua legatura? ( nu am insta)
Salut uite ai lista si preturile la ce este in motor acum :
Chiuloasa Veicomer full race - 1200 £
Injectoare firad 120% - 960£
Turbo hybrid GTB2566VK - 1560£
Ambreiaj Sachs SRE performance - 1400£
Galerie evacuare Darkside - 1200£
Biele ProRaceEngineering - 400£
Prezoane chiuloasa ARP2000 - 300£
Racitor ulei - 84 £
Pompa ulei - 70 £
Distributie OEM - 150 £
Lant ulei+ patina+ semering - 50 £
Garnitura chiuloasa - 25 £
Senzor map 6 bari - 40 £
Cuzineti biele + torco - 57 £
O-ringuri inj - 33 £
MAP flange - 30 £
Termostat - 20 £
Cuzineti arbore KING - 30£
Roata zimtata mica distributie oem - 15£
Roata zimtata mare distributie oem - 28£
Friction disc diamont coated crank - 40£
Arp flywheel bolts - 48£
Suruburi oem galerie ad. - 90 lei
Suruburi oem arbore cotit 12.9 - 120 lei
Surub oem intinzator + piulita oem - 22 lei
Pompa apa conti - 205 lei
Semering mic arbore elring - 42 lei
Semering axa came elring - 28 lei
Prezoane + piulite evacuare oem - 92 lei
Suruburi fulie distributie oem 3buc - 24 lei
Întinzător oem - 20£
Segmenti+cuzineti+semeringuri- 245 £
Pompa tandem bosch - 20£
Total doar in motor 8145 £
@@WRCgarage am inteles, eu as vrea ceva daily adica nu pt race soft de cai mult..ceva Basic cu o turbina ARL pana în 200 cai. Masina în cauza e un sharan. Tot caut pe cineva care e atent la detalii și folosește dinamometrica..mulți cică o au în mana...și nu găsesc. Și mulți mi au zis ca nu se merita. Piesele OEM sunt sfinte.. alții zic ca merge și after..nici nunstiu ce sa fac. Motorul are 400k masina o am de noua. Am primit info cum ca nu merge doar segmentat și celelalte piese aferente, trebuie honuit și blocul. Nu am probleme. Nu consuma ulei sau ceva...și nu cred ca ar trebui honuit..acum aștept o părere.
Pai trebuie desfăcut prima data sa vezi cum arata cilindrii si dupa iti dai seama daca trebuie sau nu honuit, o honuire usoara cum am facut si eu este simpla de facut si nu costa mai nimic, scula este ieftina si este un avantaj. Iar cu piesele da, trebuie totul nou, nu neapărat oem dar firme cunoscute nu FAI, FEBI sau alte de genul, cauti Elring, goetze, victor reinz, king, glyco, continental, KOLBENSCHMIDT, mahle, etc , suruburi tot nou ce este in interiorul motorului si distributie neaparat noi daca nu vrei sa ai probleme, nu neaparat oem dar sa fie noi, macar la distributie ia oem suruburile si piulitele, in rest nu e mare lucru se face usor .
@@WRCgarage asa ceva simplu, cât ar fi? Doar mana ta de lucru ma refer . Sa ți aduc masina
Nu sunt in țară, si nu lucrez momentan decat pe masinile personale.
How it is called? 7:34
@@lubosmarecek519 Just Victor Reinz silicone if that's you mean...
Ручное хонингование🗿🗿🗿
It it something bad in that ?
@@WRCgarage You won't be able to create the perfect cylinder geometry by hand. In addition, the incorrect angle and shape of the hon-risks do not allow the rings to rub in well, contributes to increased wear, etc.
I know exactly want you mean, but that doesn't mean it is a bad thing thinking to the way that my cilynders been before that, because at that time when i did the honing i was on to rebuild the engine so when i saw how bad the cilynders look i decided to do that honing as they been like glass so because i haven't had a spare engine block i did it to be able to finish the build, knowing that i had to find soon another emgine block replacement.
So i did about 1k miles or even less with the engine loke that and i haven't had any oil consumption or any other issue then i found another good engine block wich i replace it with another set of new rings and now the engine works sound and good same as before to be honest but at least i have peace of mind.
Start spray = Start in 1sec
And break in another 5 seconds 🤣, o hope you not mechanic
@@WRCgarage I'm not a mechanic, but that's how I always start the engine when I disassemble the fuel hoses.
@Vasiccc I have explained hundred times, when an engine is fully rebuit and empty/dry of oil and diesel you don't want to start that engine in one second, i did wanted to start like that to have time to fill with oil all parts before starting.
Selezione naturale
So much money and not decking the block? What about those bores? Clearly seen better days. Strange aproaches.
Why are you worry about my money ? I dont need any advices thank you, i'm doing my engine how i like.
Not every rebuild needs to be bored and decked. Seen people waste money when a hone and re ring would have been better.
Sorry to disappoint you, mate, but the car still works brilliantly without any issues. Only "smart" mechanics do the decking when there's no need for it, which is the biggest stupidity I've seen. I never did it when there was no need, and surprisingly, the engine performs as new.
@@WRCgarageI completely agree with you. I did the same thing. I hate when people deck a perfectly good block. It makes no sense.
Нижние упорные полукольца, смазаны не с той стороны))
I don't understand what you mean...
@@WRCgarage ты дуру не гони, всё ты понимаешь
Look, i don't know if you're idiot or you just pretend but im gonna explain for the last time, im Romanian and you're writing in Rusian and i have to translate it with google translate wich many times it doesn't translate the exaclty frase to understand, so instead to play smart with me write in english so i can understant wtf do you mean, as i've seen many "smarties" like you behind the keyboard ...
@@WRCgarage молдаванин прикидывается шлангом, ахах
Putting silicone on all the bolts, thats murder
Where about you saw me putting "silicone" can you specify the time on video to see myself ?
@@WRCgarage That's black assembly lube from ARP?
Yes, that's right
Topran oil pump..............
And... ? Are you the one who makes them and you know something what we should know ?
Locația zici că e la Daniel de la La Garaj
Nu e 😂
Nu cumva e David? :))
@@mariusandi7897 Nu e bro, e locatia personala.
@@WRCgarage nu e in Romania, nu ?
Ba da bro e in ro dar e locatia personala, garajul meu.
put it in the bin bro
Have you eaten anything today poor man? 🤣🤣🤣
Salut poti lasa un numar de contat pt whatsap pt o problema la un motor 1.9 pd ? Sa iti dau un video sa iti dai o parere
Salut, trimite-l pe instagram, il gasesti pe canal aici
@@WRCgarage ti-am scris
Its not good work... scratch In cylinders, weak stock bolts 10. Another user help you thoose better - stronger, used stock pistons with chamber moding. Only forged conn.rod are good and stronger bearnings. Next tip Oil pump with smaller wheel ,produce more Oil pressure. Camshat Type? Hydraulic delete to mechanical converse do highest rev and max boost😊
Listen mr advicer, im not posting this videos to ask your opinion i know very well what im doing and i know exactly what's better and what's not for this engine.
Firstly the 10.9 bolts were come in a huge bunch of parts and i have ordered the right part number for 12.9 but unfortunately they came wrong part and i haven't check them, i was lucky as the engine was still on the stand by the time i saw the comment from that user and just change them with new genuine 12.9 ones.
Second thing, this is not the first time i build an race engine and i have tested many brands of part by now doing testings on my engines and show others for free whats good and what's not.
The 3rd thing i have sayd in my previous videos that im gonna try and test some mods to see how will engine react so the videos that i upload should be for infos if you can get any from them.
The camshaft i sayd in other videos its a pipercam 272°, i have all details and link there with the lift specs, then oil pressure i know that what you sayd but at the moment i use the car in very high revs and keeping the huge preasure on the oil sistem its not gonna help me and the oil pump will definately fail much faster, at the moment ive got 10 bar at 90° after 2k rpm so im good.
In the end people should understand that these videos should be helpfull for yours and if you can get any good information from them ill be happy if not this is it, you do other videos and show people on your money how to properly do it and let me do them how i know.
Thanks !
@@WRCgarage OK, fine , for me you know mid. I do 2.0 Tdi to 295/605 on Gtd20 v2, Without metanol or nitro , pure diesel! . Cya!!!
I did before rebuild 330hp only diesel aswell, and got some good performances but because i wasn't satisfyed with 100-200 time i rebuild the engine again with new upgrades as veicomer full race head, another type of forged conrods, a better camshaft and new design of pistons wich are on testing at the moment.
If everything goes well the car should archive around 380 hp diesel only, and with methanol another 20-30 hp extra, and with nitrous probably another 100 hp depending of nozzles and controller. So ill see, the car is still on break in at the moment.
stai ca m-ai dat peste cap, ce mama ma-sii au patit tachetii aia???
🤣🤣🤣 sunt mecanici, pastilele se schimba separat, la hidraulici sunt cu totul.
In genuine european cars the steering wheel is on the left. I am sorry to have to tell you that but you have been scamed.
Ok mate thank you for let me know 🤣🤣🤣
Oil pomp topran 🤦🤦 unlike
Same used last time, not a problem at all, 10 bar oil pressure all the time cold and after1500 rpm when is engine warm (90⁰)
Неужели нельзя хон поправить на станке? Лучше шуруповертом с насадки от китайских братьев шилиндр нацарарать.
Это не бюджетно. Лучше побольше приборчиков. А то что цилиндры изношены и зазоры выше крыши ничего страшного
И опять только на великом и могучем конструктивная критика на вентилятор🤦
@@shaban2984чел замерил ,если все в допуске, нет элипса,в чем проблема ?
Thank you, they won't understand that it's all measured and checked, and its not about money when i have already spend over 8k £ in that engine.
I don't understand why it was necessary to invest so much? A new motor costs a lot less
Złom 😂
Did you give "like" yourself ? 🤣🤣🤣, when you're waiting for bus to go at work and your only time you saw an engine open is on youtube i understand your frustration.
rs3 really?? this is lame
Cries in 60mpg || 6L/100km 😂😂😂
Not anymore 😅, i wish i still had that MPG, but it's gone now
@@WRCgarage I can imagine. Got a stage 2 2.0L ST tdci with meth and am in the same boat when pushed 😂