That was an excellent video! How long did that entire process take you? Very impressive, your work shows how much care you put into what you do, young enthusiasts should learn from you.
Do you soak your engine parts in anything before putting the engine back together? Or do you buy a kit to rebuild the engine? Some say original parts, screws and bolts are best. What is your take on this?
Bro, Bout how long should I torche the nuts and studs its hard to guess with the video sped up. Also Should I use the rosebud tip ? Also did you previously soak all the bolts/nuts with solvent?
I have previously been soaking the nuts in Kroll penetrating oil for a couple days, when I am heating up the nuts I use a welding tip but a rosebud tip will work also, there isn’t a certain amount of time the goal is to make the nut red hot, once it is red hot you can move onto the next one, let them all cool before trying to remove, if one feels like it isn’t breaking loose, get it red hot again, last thing you want to do is rush it and break a bead bolt
@@thewholls7176 they definitely cool better, I do have quite a few friends out that way running the early motors though, and your in luck, my best flathead parts distributor is in Australia!
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop Very good but I can tell you don’t see many of em..... What you do see a lot of is 351 Clevelands and Windsor’s small block chevies...... I’ve got a 5.4 L Ford Fairlane which is a three 330 in.³ Windsor motor it does really well Same motor is in the Ford Triton in the USA and it gets a bad rap but if you change the engine oil every 5000 km you do not have a problem other than spark plug removal and there’s a way to handle that
@@thewholls7176 nice! I know a couple of the ford engines have problems with the spark plugs, either braking coming out or just plain blowing them out completely, I used to be a mechanic at a ford dealership here
Thanks for the videos! I’m tearing down a 59ab. I can’t get the heads to separate from the block (All nuts are removed). Any suggestions would be appreciated.
If your engine isn’t stuck and was running you could try cranking it over so it creates pressure and lifts the head. If it’s not running and spins freely you can try putting small rope through the spark plug hole in one of the center cylinders and spin the engine over with a ratchet and it’ll push the head up., worst case scenario you can lightly hammer a wedge on both sides but be super careful not to go too hard at it, you could damage the block surface
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop Thanks. Unfortunately the engine doesn’t run and is stuck. Hoping to have a look inside before I pull it out of the car... I appreciate your videos and your eagerness to help people!! Thanks again!
They are the same, I just worked on a 1950 Fire Truck and it was also the same, it “should” be an 8BA with just 8RT water pumps and might have two belts opposed to one, outside from that they are the same
If you don’t heat the head studs, they will break off in the block, then you have to weld a nut on to get it out, creating heat anyways, done about two dozen this way with no issues
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop Yeah, I was working on an 8BA, the valves came out relatively easy, unfortunately when I pulled the pan off, the bottom of the block had massive cracks on both sides.
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop On the bottom sides of the block that mate to the pan. On one side the crack runs almost 3/4 the length of the block, not visible on the outside. The other side the crack is about 4". I was unable to load pictures.
If I have ever seen a case where dollar store over cleaner would have came in handy, is that flatty there
😂 I know right, I’m about to power wash it and hot tank it
nice video! pretty cool seeing the whole process from start to finish, now I want to see it in the other direction!
Thank you! Working on that now!
Great video but it ended to soon, I sure wish I had a flathead.
Great 👍 and thanks for videos ,great insights! Enjoy the flat head boogie tunes! lolol
That was an excellent video! How long did that entire process take you? Very impressive, your work shows how much care you put into what you do, young enthusiasts should learn from you.
It smelled so 👍
like it better when you have commitments.
What is the name of the tool you used when compressing the springs to get the valves out?
Why did you cut the valves and the springs? When you take a engine apart like this do you always have to get new pistons and rings?
Do you soak your engine parts in anything before putting the engine back together? Or do you buy a kit to rebuild the engine? Some say original parts, screws and bolts are best. What is your take on this?
What size socket to remove the crankshaft pulley?
I enjoy your videos very much. Do you give tours of your facility in Spring, Texas? I would like to meet the Master! Slim Zimmermann
Thank you for watching! I’m sorry but my shop is in Virginia, not sure if I gave the wrong info in one of my videos or not
Help
Got a flathead 6 ford in chipper.
Rain in open exhaust 3 years.
Engine any good ?
Bro, Bout how long should I torche the nuts and studs its hard to guess with the video sped up. Also Should I use the rosebud tip ? Also did you previously soak all the bolts/nuts with solvent?
I have previously been soaking the nuts in Kroll penetrating oil for a couple days, when I am heating up the nuts I use a welding tip but a rosebud tip will work also, there isn’t a certain amount of time the goal is to make the nut red hot, once it is red hot you can move onto the next one, let them all cool before trying to remove, if one feels like it isn’t breaking loose, get it red hot again, last thing you want to do is rush it and break a bead bolt
I suspect that motor was the 24 stud version the one they brought out before the 8BA because it looked like it had the one piece Bell housing set up
That’s correct! The early 24 studs where built in America from 1938-1948
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop don’t see many of those here in Australia a they tend to go for the 8BA on account of the better cooling system porting.......
@@thewholls7176 they definitely cool better, I do have quite a few friends out that way running the early motors though, and your in luck, my best flathead parts distributor is in Australia!
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop
Very good
but I can tell you don’t see many of em.....
What you do see a lot of is 351 Clevelands and Windsor’s small block chevies......
I’ve got a 5.4 L Ford Fairlane which is a three 330 in.³ Windsor motor it does really well
Same motor is in the Ford Triton in the USA and it gets a bad rap but if you change the engine oil every 5000 km you do not have a problem other than spark plug removal and there’s a way to handle that
@@thewholls7176 nice! I know a couple of the ford engines have problems with the spark plugs, either braking coming out or just plain blowing them out completely, I used to be a mechanic at a ford dealership here
Thanks for the videos! I’m tearing down a 59ab. I can’t get the heads to separate from the block (All nuts are removed). Any suggestions would be appreciated.
If your engine isn’t stuck and was running you could try cranking it over so it creates pressure and lifts the head. If it’s not running and spins freely you can try putting small rope through the spark plug hole in one of the center cylinders and spin the engine over with a ratchet and it’ll push the head up., worst case scenario you can lightly hammer a wedge on both sides but be super careful not to go too hard at it, you could damage the block surface
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop Thanks. Unfortunately the engine doesn’t run and is stuck. Hoping to have a look inside before I pull it out of the car... I appreciate your videos and your eagerness to help people!! Thanks again!
@@stevepriest3519 no problem at all! Thank you for watching
🐐
😎
is there any different between car and truck engine . just got a f3 today v8 1952
They are the same, I just worked on a 1950 Fire Truck and it was also the same, it “should” be an 8BA with just 8RT water pumps and might have two belts opposed to one, outside from that they are the same
You are bigger man than me!
Lol thank you!
Why are you heating the block with a torch to take out the head studs??? You'll just crack the block.
If you don’t heat the head studs, they will break off in the block, then you have to weld a nut on to get it out, creating heat anyways, done about two dozen this way with no issues
Yep, I can see I will have to resort to cutting off the valves to get them out.
Sorry for your troubles! Sometimes it come down to that
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop Yeah, I was working on an 8BA, the valves came out relatively easy,
unfortunately when I pulled the pan off, the bottom of the block had massive cracks on both sides.
@@carlofirpo3006 oh wow, where was the cracks at exactly?
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop On the bottom sides of the block that mate to the pan.
On one side the crack runs almost 3/4 the length of the block, not visible on the outside. The other side the crack is about 4". I was unable to load pictures.
@@carlofirpo3006 wow that’s crazy, probably the worst I’ve seen then, I bet it was full of water and froze
Lawnmower v8
Hey that's a 39 ford isn't it?
It sure is!
I'm working on my 38 sedan. Lots of similarities, minus your juice brakes which I envy haha
@@marksams1037 I guess you’ll just have to do a juice brake swap then! Lol
would have taken at least 5 minutes less if he had used an impact.....lol
Lol would’ve taken 20 minutes more if I broke any bolts with an impact
Please do it again 😂😂💪👌
How to remove cam from ford big block truck engine that locked up