How to Break a Ball Joint Free - 4 Different Ways
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 มิ.ย. 2024
- Four different ways on how to remove or replace a ball joint. Depending if you’re reusing the ball joint or not will affect which method best fits your application and I will be covering this on each of the removal options. Ball joints equipped with a taper are typically used on tie rods and the connection between the control arm and steering knuckle. Once that taper on a ball joint breaks loose, it’s free so there is no struggle such as what you may find with a slide in cylinder shaped object. #suspension #steering #autorepair
Amazon links for various products used in the video for both USA and Canada:
USA:
Pickle/tuning fork kit: amzn.to/2NLVKqi
Ball joint separator: amzn.to/3boWJ8j
Canada:
Pickle/tuning fork kit: amzn.to/3btNtPY
Ball joint separator: amzn.to/3aDZIKR
Website: 4diyers.com
Patreon: / 4diyers
Facebook: / 4diyers
Google Plus: plus.google.com/+4DIYers
Twitter: / 4diyers
Instagram: / 4diyers
Tumblr: / 4diyers
Pintrest: / 4diyers
Method #1:
This remove process is recommended when you’re not reusing the ball joints as you can damage the threads on the stud. Here I was having a little trouble with the tuning fork, so instead I gave the threaded stud a few hits with a hammer and the taper came free. If you are worried about damaging the threads, you can use a brass hammer which will be softer than the stud or install a nut that sits flush on the threads stud.
Method #2:
This method can be used when reusing a ball joint and doesn’t require any specialty tools. This is simply hitting the side of the casting with a hammer on the steering knuckle right at the ball joint. The shock from the hit provides enough vibration to the taper free. However it doesn’t always work as there maybe tension push towards the steering knuckle, preventing the ball joint from breaking free. This method should not be used on cast aluminum components as you can crack the casting.
Method #3:
Using a tuning fork. There is a variety of styles available, some are solid or some have replaceable ends such as what I have. Unfortunately when using a tuning fork, there is a large risk of damaging the ball joint’s boot which jeopardizes it’s life expectancy. Once a ball joint’s boot is ripped, this allows grease to escape and a spot for foreign contaminants to enter, wearing out the ball joint quicker. Tuning forks have a variety of opening sizes, you’ll need to pick the correct size which fits somewhat tight around the ball joints shaft. The fork is shaped as a wedge, when hit with a hammer it forced itself between the ball joint and steering knuckle, breaking the taper free.
Method #4:
Using a ball joint separate. Again a specialty tool like a tuning fork, available in a variety of sizes, and some designs can vary. This tool allows you to reuse the old ball joint with no damage. Ensure the opening is the right size, this particular separator has a size adjustment, install it into place. The bar on the top pushes against the ball joints threaded stud, while the fork shaped portion pushed against the steering knuckle. The bolt is tightened on the opposite side, working on leverage to break the taper free. If you are having a little trouble, sometimes you can give the taper a quick hit with the hammer, provide a shock helping break the taper free. However as mentioned earlier, hitting an aluminum casting with a hammer is not recommended.
Thank you to all those who watch my videos and support my content. Don't forget to subscribe to my channel for future tutorial videos and like my video if you found it helpful. New videos are always being uploaded every week!
© 4DIYers 2013
All Rights Reserved
No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Amazon links for various products used in the video for both USA and Canada:
USA:
Pickle/tuning fork kit: amzn.to/2NLVKqi
Ball joint separator: amzn.to/3boWJ8j
Canada:
Pickle/tuning fork kit: amzn.to/3btNtPY
Ball joint separator: amzn.to/3aDZIKR
No music. Well recorded voice instructions and clear pictures. If only other TH-camrs could do as good as this. Brilliant. Thank you.
Thank you so much for the kind words, greatly appreciated!
i personally like adding in swearing. the balljoint understands me...
That's the stuff I have to edit out of videos lol.
Ahh yes that is the best I’ve found as well
@4DIYers 888 9j9hh9j7ju 8 ioni 8
Blood also makes a good lubricant for stuck car parts
Facts
I love the comments on this video, I can really feel the pain. I must have hit that fork very hard with a club hammer 500 times before it suddenly fell apart. I am replacing the lower control arm and ball joint so I wasn’t being careful. Don’t give up just keep hitting the bloody thing!
ended up breaking both of my hammers and its 11:47 pm so everything around me is closed and i have to make it into work tomorrow :(
@@ianmcclintock944 has to be one of the worst feelings, at this point you want to light the car on fire and walk away
Very thorough and explanatory presentation !
Thank you!
Thanks.Good explanations and video quality was good.
Happy to help and thank you for the feedback :)
Thanks! I'll be putting these to work tomorrow.
No problem and awesome to hear!
Thumbs up for using the right tools! I've seen too many people heat a ball joint. That is the worst thing you can do to something that's pressed in to place. It can shoot out like a bullet and kill you if you heat it. Don't do the job if you don't have the right tools. You can borrow or rent tools from just about any auto parts store if you can't afford to buy and don't have a friend to borrow from. You're taking a risk of losing a limb or your life using the wrong tool(s).
Thank you so much for the kind words and feedback!
Sometimes heat is the last resort of nothing else works
Your tips were awesome because I have been struggling getting a lower ball joint loose
Thank you!
Tuning fork ...rich...thanks for share good video👍
Ended up mushrooming the top of the bolt so I'll have to cut the bolt once I get the sucker loose so it'll fit out! Replacing the parts anyway. Thanks for the video!
I personally found that attaching a big steel pipe to the end of the pickle fork and pressing down on the pipe finally made the SOB pop out, this should work great if you have a Charger/Challenger/300/Magnum
Helpful thank you.
Thank you so much it helped me a lot
You're welcome!
To save damaging the thread put the castle nut on upside down, screw it flush with the end of the thread. 😉
Great tip, thanks for sharing!
Big help bro thank u
No problem, happy to help :)
Got it! Thanks...
Thanks bud!
This is awesome the last one was for my car specifically
Thank you!
@@4DIYers 77⅞⅞⁷777⅞I ⅞have 77⅞⅞⅞⅞⁷7⁶⅞⁶7⅞⅞⁷7.5 ⅞76⁶⅞⅞and ⅞⁶⅞is ⁷⅞7.5 ⁶67677 7⅞⁶⅞⁶⅞and 7.5 backing 77⅞⅞667⅞and other ⁶day 6⅞⅞is 7.5 ⅞for ⅞⁶⁶⁷⅞⁷is 6⅞⅞⁶⅞⁷⁶⅞67⁶66⁶66 769.95⁷⁶7⁶⁶6⅞⁶⅞⁶⅞6 7.5⅞6⁶⁶769.95⁶⅞7⁶⁶⁶⅞7.5 769.95 6.25⁶7.5⁶⁶769.95⁶⅞⁶⁶⁶⁶⁶⁶67 769.95 6⁶⅞⁷7.5⅞7.5 769.95⁶⁶⅞⅞⅞⁶⁶⁶⁶⁶⁶⁶⁶⁶⁶⁶⁶66 6.25 769.95 769.95 769.95 7⁶⁶85x 769.95 769.95 7.5 7.5 6.25⁶⁶769.95 7.5 769.95⁶7.5 769.95 7.5 769.95⅞7⁶76 7.5 7.5 769.95 6.25 769.95⁶⁶66 6.25 769.95 7.5⁶⁶77 769.95
Cool,. I work at a shop and always use a big hammer. 👍
Great video. Thought I'd give you an update on my Jaguar XF vibration. The dealer called me today to say that they tested the new drive shaft they fitted and it is out of balance. They will order a new one under warranty claim and hopefully the vibration will be solved. Thanks for your advice. You're a great source of knowledge. I'm sure others will appreciate you just as much 🤗👍
Thank you and excellent to hear it's getting solved! Good thing it still has warranty on it as well, that would be getting quite costly if you had to pay for a replacement again.
Appreciate the video.
Thank you!
Thanks brother
No problem, happy to help :)
When I hammer a balljoint or tie rod end to replace it - use a scissor's jack under the end of the threaded portion. Leave the castle nut on but loosened to protect the threads if you are re-using it.
With tension on the end of the balljoint or tie rod threaded portion, whack the steering knuckle next to it and for a split second it will vibrate and deform releasing the tapered shaft. With the nut still on the threaded portion it can only move 1/8" or so and there are no safety issues either.
This also works on shafts which need to be protected like steering boxes. Whack on both sides at the same time with two heavy hammers. Doesn't take too much. I have also wedged a hammer between a steering box and the frame rail to vibrate the shaft but not damage anything.
Awesome tips, thank you for sharing!
Great info..thx
No problem and thank you!
If you lubricate the fork with silicone oil this greatly reduces the chance of damaging the rubber boot
Awesome tip, thank you for sharing!
I've never seen a way to use one without destroying the boot
I figured the boot would be shot using a fork, which would commit one to completing the job. Or if just removing the tie rod to get at something else, replacing the boot. But may as well at least replace the tie rod end if it's old, they're cheap.
Thank you
No problem, happy to help!
Just used the BFH method to break free my steering so I could adjust something. Thanks!
Glad it helped!
classic riviera 3 corners new springs and shocks! slow work but cheaper than the shop. i get to the drivers side front the tie rod and the ball joint will NOT separate, going to try to get the lever and screw(#4 in the vid) at the parts store/ tool wholesale tomorrow. removing full size Buick springs is as nerve racking as combat and probly more dangerous.
Cant beat..the few WUACK..with the hammer..that is the best one.
Tried all of these to no avail! The balljoint somehow broke my bj separator AND the threads mushroomed and cracked at the cotter pin hole. Nearly broke my pickle fork as well. I even tried the method of wedging a ratchet between the knuckle and lca and using my body weight to pop it out, but ended up damaging the ratchet instead. Rust from snowy climates is no joke! I bought a compressor and air hammer as my last resort. I’m hoping this resilient ball joint doesn’t break those too! 😂
What happened in the end ?
Did you end up using heat?
Same situation here, done everything I can think of/heard online... even 3 methods all combined at once didn't break the fucker free.. I'm so demoralized I just want to sell it to be honest.
@@tagapiouplayz3737 sorry for the late response! The balljoint got so messed up in the process of trying to break it loose that I had to press the old one out and replace it
It's a bit late, but just a tip for the future: lubricate the threads on the bj separator tool with some type of lubricant like tap or cutting oil to help protect the threads from getting damaged from the heat caused by friction, if that makes sense
Suspension is rusty and ugly like mine thats why i clicked to see how it is possible to remove? Spent 3 hrs trying to remove ball joint but no luck. Your video gave me hope especially with basic tools not hydro or air gun. Thanks!
Keep it up
I always had good luck with method #2 but with 2 hammers . Strike both sides at The same time ....1.....2.....3.... strike the nut on threaded end , and POP!!!!
Definitely gonna use the hammer method. 😂 Thanks for the tips
No problem!
Good luck.
Ty ty ty ty ty 👍✌️
How do you find a ball joint separator to fit your vehicle? I have a 2005 Honda CRV. do you have to go buy the part and then try different tools?
I don't mind spending the cash for a tool, but I would like to know it is going to work first.
Thanks bro method 2 worked great
Happy to help!
aaah, good ol hammer style, used it for years, still gonna be using it
old school is the only school, if your hammer doesn't work get a bigger one.
@@Matt-vb2jo hell yeah, worst case scenario it snaps off
nice video, missed out on the problem with the spinning nut.. that's driving me nuts, and cant smash a fork into it since i need to reuse the ball joint
Thank you! For that, you can use a clamp to push down the taper in the steering knuckle or sometimes they have an stud which can take an allen wrench to hold it in place. If you have access, an impact can also remove the nut quickly.
Hi,I would cut the nut,either with a nut splitter,or a cutting wheel on a dremel or grinder,trying not to damage the threads.
4DIYers i tried the impact on my crown vic but its still just spinning...any pointers?
Nice video. That vehicle looks like it takes a daily brine bath.
This truck looks like it's whole life was driving through shallow salt water!
Hey how do I remove the ball joint on my 2014 jeep cherokee
get jackstand under there boy! don't want you getting hurt. cool vid.thanks.
There's a jack stand under there, always is. That's why I use the large plastic sheet so it has good support on a dirt driveway. Thank you :)
What if the ball joint is detached from the control arm and stuck. I’ve tried a clamp and can’t get it out
If you’re not keeping the ball joint, try applying some heat.
Problems with method one. The ball joint sometimes won’t come out. Method 2 won’t work a majority of the time. Method 3 is basically the same as method one. Method 4 is the best method ever. Go get the tool. It works 99.9% of the time. It has never failed to pop the ball joint free for me.
I got one yesterday and still not working when also using method 2 at the same time, AND with extra pressure on the control arm with a jack. So depressing, I feel like I'm at a loss and should sell the fucker..
@@Trildin Put the castle nut back on the ball joint upside down til it’s about flush with the bottom of the thread. Then use method 4. If it still won’t budge then use an impact gun on the ball joint tool. If it still won’t budge use a torch. Heat it up for 10minutes then try again.
@@thronewalker1153 Thanks man :) Method 4 is what I did (also trying to beat the crap out of it with method 2 in between tightening), until I could tell it was deforming the ball joint bolt, and slightly messed up the nut as well.. I suppose I'll order a new ball joint since the only way to remove this one seems to involve destroying it.. I appreciate the tips, I'm trying to learn to work on my own vehicles finally and this issue is so brutal I felt like giving up on it all completely :/
@@Trildin that’s how it was with me. Just stick with it.
I've got the fork but the damn knucle just won't come off and I damaged the boot. Hopefully I didnt damage the ball joint itself.
Ive tried the first 3 of these and none of them worked, i evan resorted to hitting the threads of the balljoint directly with a hammer to knock it lose and was planning to use an angle grinder to grind off the part i squished so it will come out, no luck. Will that separater do it? Ive never had to use one before becouse when im replacing stubborn balljoints normally a good smack with a big ass hammer does the trick then i grind off the tip that is now squished if it won't fit through the hole.
Have you tried lowering the suspension and putting the vehicle's weight on that side before hitting it? You might be fighting against the movement of the suspension so you're not able to get a solid hit and it'll also help change the angle.
Nice video. I didn't get the difference between option 1 and 3.
Thank you! The difference is the tuning/pickle fork didn't work so I used a hammer instead, hitting it on the threaded portion.
Something about how to separate ball joints from other suspension parts besides thecsteering knuckle, would be useful. Ie from control arms, stabiliser bar (drop links). Can't find any really good video on that 😭
The same principle applies.
Nice video on replacing tie rods. Where is the ball joint removal?
Ball joints and tie rods have a similar taper, the same methods can be applied.
The hammer worked at treat, the fork wasn't doing it. Thanks
Glad it helped!
I tried the separator and as I tighten it just slips out. Rented tuning fork and got the tie rod off no problem and didn't rip the boot. Now I have to get the upper and lower ball joint separated.
I’ve tried all of these except the last one... might be time to bust out a torch.
Hydraulic press
What about 5 Different ways.............. C clamp
Great tips, I haven't used either but they are certainly options too!
What do you mean? Please explain
@@singhsarabjit th-cam.com/video/37NgLM4tIzw/w-d-xo.html
So 2 of the methods are the same? Tuning fork used twice
Which methods are the same? The tuning fork was successfully used once in the methods. If you're referring to the other time where it was used on the tie rod, I hit the threads of the stud with a hammer instead as the tuning fork wasn't able to get a good bite on the joint.
@@4DIYers understood
Ensure you use a B sharp tuning fork.
I can still hear the ringing lol.
Really need to get myself one of the non damage splitters, end up smashing a fork into it in a rage and ruining everything😂😂
You got a literal LOL there haha. I can relate when something doesn't go as it should.
I’ve done this many times 😂
Method 5: Angle grinder
1 and 3 are the exact same thing
They are not. While a pickle fork was used, it wasn't working in method 1. So instead I hit the threaded stud with a hammer.
I l ike to cuss out the engineers who thought pressing-in a ball joint is the best way to mount them. Why not good-old bolt on, bolt off?
That conical shape just gets pounded in over the years, then you add rust and heat and it's near impossible to remove.
The taper is strong and it's accurate every time it's connected/disconnected. A similar taper is used in machining equipment too for the exact same reasons.
1:59 :-)
Yeah nah I'm trying to remove the ball joint from my rear lca don't need to reuse it as I have the replacement to go in have literally spent 4 hours prying and hammering the shit out of it with the but completely loose but the bolt has not budged and the ball joint itself has sort of just started coming apart she's stuffed
I'm the same ie NONE of these methods worked...I notice you don't answer!
I try to answer people's questions, however I don't always get to every single one due to the high volume. Have you tried applying a good quality penetrating oil around the taper, then let it sit overnight. Another option would be using a pickle fork, push it in a far as possible, then hit the threaded part with a hammer.
That's a track rod end not a control arm ball joint
Correct and that was mentioned in the video. It still used the same principle and methods to remove.
@@4DIYers I got u I watched most so likely missed it lol
you can use hammer but you shouldn't. there is a right way and a wrong way, hammer damages things. sadly this is how a lot of "professionals" do things.
That's for people that live in the rust belt. There's no other way to break the rust free.
Ive tried all these methods it still wont budge even the splitter wont shift it
strake750 try some heat
Be aware that some ball joints have c clips that prevent them from traveling out. You need to remove them.
wow thats one seriosuly rusty car
Welcome to Canada, where excessive salt is used and most of the vehicles look like this.
looks like a tie rod
Still has a tamper and it's the same principle.
this wasnt even close to what i was looking for, i need to get a lower ball joint out,
You need to press out a ball joint from a control arm? This video is for breaking the taper free.
@@4DIYers Yeah. that wasnt made that clear in your title.
That's a different topic, you would be searching for something along the lines of "how to remove a pressed in ball joint". I don't have a specific video for that as of yet, but I did do this on a Ford Ranger and it would be a similar process th-cam.com/video/pvlD_fBMHW0/w-d-xo.html
Method 1 and 3 are the same😂😂
They're not if you listened to the dialogue, it was explained in the video.
NONE OF THESE WAYS WORK IN A TIGHT SPACE....