ZF6HP26 Valvebody Overhaul
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.ย. 2024
- In this Video, i overhaul the 6HP26 valvebody out of the jaguar trans. Then install the valvebody onto the trans. This is coming from my laptop, trying to fix desktop computer,it wont let me upload
FYI anyone who comes across this, replacing solenoids solved my problem, so far. I had slip on 4-5 upshift, jolt on 5-6, and 2-1 downshift bump. Codes came up 4f8A and also 4f86 for 4-5 upshift but no other codes. Originally i just attempted with the bridge and finger seals, but that did not solve the problem. I have been able to test the car on at least one road trip and a few high load shifts, and so far so good. If anyone buys a car with a higher mileage ZF automatic transmission (over 120k miles, 200k km) at the first sign of transmission issues I would recommend this service.
I would recommend disconnecting the battery during this service.
When putting the car back together make sure the sliding arm on the valvebody is aligned with the shift selector on the trans housing.
Hi Gary! Thanks for this great How-To guide! I had a bunch of fun in the garage last night, changing the solenoids on my 2004 BMW X5 4.8is. It has 160.000kms or 100k mls on the clock. Prior the change it had big issues shifting from 3-4 and 4-5 and it felt like the tranny got "stuck" between the gears. Reverse also took about 3 seconds to engage. So following your instructions I pulled out the valve body, swapped the solenoids to brand new ones, changed the bri(ck)dge seal and the 4 small tube ones as well as the plastic thing for the TCU plug. I didn't change the valve body seal as I didn't know prior the work which exact type I need, but I think it's in good shape anyhow. Well, how to say.... The whole operation took me about 5 hours and damn, my car is normal again and I feel like I have a brand new X5! :))) Shifting is perfect, gears engage instantly. The thing is, I'm not a car mechanic, but this is something you can do on your own. Just take your time, have some proper tools ready, use your brain and follow what Gary is saying here. So thanks man, your videos are really inspiring. Kind regards from Austria/Europe, Alex
Awesome Alex, Thanks for sharing your story. Greetings from New York.
@@GaryFerraro
Sir, sometimes you say that the mv3 & mv2 are responsible for sticking in park &;in the video, you say: if this squared black plastic is cracked, then you gonna find difficulty shifting from park...how do we know, what causes this problem? Ssolenoids & a cracked plastic?
@@blackbirda3797 The most common is a cracked bridge seal, if you put this in drive or reverse and it jumps back to park(most common) then the seal is cracked
Mr Gary Ferraro you are a master sir.....thank you I was able to fix my transmission on my 2006 BMW 750li....changed the solenoids , bridge seal , 4 rubber seals and the mechatronic sleeve and my car is driving great ...shifting like butter awesome
Thank you Ed, glad it worked out. Good Job.
please know how much these videos are appreciated!!
Thank you
Heres something I finally got to the bottom of, and I figured I would share it with you. You probably already know about this though. 2004 bmw 745li, 6hp26 M shift. Code says SV1/SV2 mechanical jam (I cant remember the code number). Upon startup I noticed the car would "clunk" as if it engaged gear as soon as the engine was running, but gear indicator only stayed in P. I pulled the valve body, and completely disassembled it, and checked it thoroughly. No issues visible. I put the valve body back in, same thing, code came back. So I pulled the valve body back out, and switched it with a known good valve body, and put his mechatronics on it, and re installed it. Same thing, code came back on. I determined it was a computer issue, and I shipped the original valve body and mechatronics to european transmission in georgia. They sent a dyno sheet back, and said they repaired the valve body and did an update on the TCU. I put it in and drove the car today, and all is well.
Its baffled me that they said there was a mechanical problem with the valve body, but two different valve bodies did that same thing, and I know one was good because It came from a perfectly shifting car. Kinda crazy, but I figured I'd share it with you!
Thanks for sharing, in case i need it, do you have the phone number to the place in georgia and is there a web site. Thanks Gary
www.europeantransmissions.com/
I dont buy sa lot of parts from them, I just use them for mechatronics repair. They have an in house dyno to get accurate results on mechatronics repairs
Thanks for the info
Anytime you repair/replace the valve body on any car, you have to reset the adaptions on the TCM. You can buy a brand new valve body and still have the same issue until you reset the adaptions. The TCM will also remember the previous adaptions. You may have fixed the issue to your car but without resetting the adaptions, it will run and shift the same way as a bad valve body.
Thanks Gary. We rebuilt the Valvebody, the small screen is not part of
this valvebody!, bought all new plungers and they were all wornout!
Replaced the plate, seals, solenoids, plungers. replaced oil with mercon sp, Shifting is smooth as silk!
Glad to hear
I cant find the last post, when it went into fail safe, did you scan for codes? any codes present?
Gary, we took the car on a trip after the transmission malfunction problem cleared itself! Drove for 300 miles over the weekend and it worked ok, On the second day, after driving 100 miles with no issues, and a couple of stops. We parked the car for a few hours and the tranny showed malfunction again! Drove it for a mile and stopped for an hour. Got back in the car and the malfunction had cleared, parked for the night. Next day it started fine no malfunction, drove for 120 miles with no problems and one stop. Parked the car for a few hours and afterwards the malfunction is back. It's been a few days and it hasn't cleared itself. Checked the transmission oil level and it's fine. The code is P1611.
Any ideas on what is going on. Disconnected the battery and didn't help, replaced the battery with a month old battery and it still malfunctioning!
Thanks.
Juan Echeverria what is the definition of code 1611
P1611
Description of the defect
Serial Communicating Link Transmission Control Module
Gary you are an excellent teacher. Thank you. Cheers
Thank you and thanks for watching
Great video man.... u are like an guardian angel for us the viewer
Thank you, and thanks for watching, please subscribe
Exceptionally informative videos. May i give thanks to your knowledge and willingness to share this most valuable information.
Thanks for watching
This was quite an informative video, and i would like to thank you for taking the time to make and publish it. I actually have a few questions you may be able to answer, as you seem to be fairly well vested in the workings of the ZF 6HP transmission. I have a 2006 Ford Falcon optioned with the 6HP26 which is operable in either standard or performance automatic modes or sequential manual-shift. It seems to for the vest part function as it should, however i have noticed a few oddities. The first is an odd whir that occurs just after a startup and appears to be from the transmisson... it is only there for a couple of seconds and then it fades back out. There also is an odd tendency to i guess what is best described as engaging reverse in two stages... it will seem to engage it, then more sharply engage it a fraction of a second later, which seems a tad unusual for a refined trans such as this... and it is not a constsnt issue, but one that comes and goes. There also has been the occasional tendency for it to not properly engage 1st gear from the Park or Neutral position, until power is applied and then it will jolt into gear... it's only done this onnce or twice. It did used to have issues with slow gear selection and an occasional but fairly regular flair and hsrd shift from 1-2 prior to a filter and fluid change which seemed to rectify both issues for a while. Also i note that recently there does seem to be a bit of a whine that best i can tell is similar to the filter whine you describe, and this seems to correspond with a change in shift feel... It's hard to describe, but that distinctive quick and sharp but smooth ZF shift feel in manual mode seems to have gotten a little i guess... dull? It feels i guess more like the vague, slurred feel of a GM 4L60e shift than the quick but still refined shift ive come to expect from the 6HP26 transmission. the transmission has 236'000km on it and to my knowledge has only ever been serviced, and never had the solenoids touched... would i be right in assuming that the solenoids are likely faulty and could very well be causing the un-ZF like behaviour at least in part? After you made mention of aftermarket pans causing pump starvation, I am also tempted to investigate the pan to see if it is an OEM pan or a non-genuine replacement. Am i right in assuming restriction of pump flow from a poor aftermarket filter/pan unit could account for the sluggish feel of the shifts im noticing in sequential-shift mode, or could this (and other synptoms) possibly be a symptom of pressure leakage from the block seal? Ive struggled to find any specific referwnce to these symptoms and until now had little to work with, but now afterseeing this video and realising solenaid faults seem to be an endemic problem, as well as the other points you mention about pans and the cracked block seal, i have a bit more to chew on. Its worth pointing out that to my knowledge the transmission wasnt serviced until about 200,000km which is fine by Ford's maintenance schedule, but double what is recommended by ZF from what i am told. Any answers you have would be very much appreciated :)
I also should point out that i have already done a recal procedure of the PCM to rule out faults caused by incorrect TPS calibration.
Hello, Do you have any codes? 2 biggest issues with these units are bushing wear and solenoids, how is this in the higher gears?
+Gary Ferraro Thank you for so promptly responding! :) i havent had it on a scantool to see if its thrown any codes as yet, but once i have it registered again i shall be able to do so. in gears 3-6 it appears to behave itself fairly well, however the the dull shifts seem to be through all 6 gears... for what its worth many people probably wouldnt notice, but it was distinctly apparant to me that the shifts lacked something. i cannot definitively remember if the whine is noticable through all gears but i beleive it was. It seems to have no surge issues at present to suggest bad clutches, and ive checked for the milkshake caused by faulty heat exchangers that was the cause of problems in some Falcons and this isnt an issue.
What i do with every ZF6HP26 is send the solenoids out to be flow checked, i send them out to a company in CT called erikssons industries. If your not really having issues, one thing you may want to try is resetting the shift adapts(you need a scan tool for this) When they first get reset the trans will do crazy shifting until it learns(it learns by you driving the car).
Is it considered bad practice to use magnetic tools during disassembly to prevent magnetizing check balls and such? When marking the location of the check balls, is center punching really the preferred way?
I use the center punch then flat sand the casting, some use a pick and put an X mark, when i tries that and flat sanded the casting the mark went away. I just use the magnet for getting the check balls out of there seat, if say like a pick is used it may fly and get lost, but never really had a problem
Hey Gary, I was wondering if you could guide me through placing the check balls and valves back into a valve body. it is the ga6hp26 with the separator plate A053. I was just wondering if the valve check balls locations are easy to see/make common sense as the slots are just big enough for them? I am currently working on a 06 750i with the 4.8l v8. I accidentally opened the valve body getting to the solenoids.
hello, sorry by my dummy question, how do you know the right position of the check balls?
Gary, I have a 2005 Jag XK8 with the 6HP26. Trans fluid was changed at 60Kmi and 120Kmi. Now at 135Kmi I'm starting to get the infamous Second to First clunk as I come to a stop and a little lurch from First to Second during normal accel. Is this the fault of the valvebody or something else?
well, that could be either a bushing problem or a solenoid problem. If you elect to change out the solenoids make sure you reset the shift adapts or it will work the same way
@@GaryFerraro Thx
Gary, which jaguar model and year did that transmission came out off? I am trying to find a used transmission that the TCM looks the same as the BMW 04 545i!
Not sure what year this one was
Hallo,Garry my car is having trouble from 1st gear in 2 and from 2 in 1 i have feling like someone is hiting my car from behind when i brake...Car was running low on transmission oil about 400km, could you give me some tips what is the problem?Everithing else works fine...Bmw e60 525d 2006...Thanks
Milan,
Do you know if there are codes present in the transmission? The problem you are having is fairly common, ive traced this back to either a solenoid issue or worn bushings in the trans. What you can do first is if you have a scan tool, reset the shift adapts and drive the car to see if the bang goes away. Gary
hi Gary, great video. I have an 05 BMW 535d with the ZF 6HP26 manual and it is misbehaving. According to the internet the valve body needs overhauled. I have already changed the oil, twice, and pan. Being a cheap scate I would like to do the work myself. My question is would you recommend that I attempt this job from under the car?
I"m having a problem with my 2010 Range rover. When i'm on the highway in cruise control and it slows down due to a slow driver, i'll pass and when the trans kicks down from 6-5 it jerks really bad and then gives a trans fault message. I am guessing it's the solenoid, what do you think? I'll probably just replace them all but you know what solenoid operates the 6-5 shift?
Can you tell me the fault code? The solenoids are cheap enough now, i would do all of them. If you still have the issue, then you may have a problem with the rear stator bushing.
Gary Ferraro ill see if I can get a code. Would that be something i need land rover for or can advance auto pull the codes?
I would try to see if advance can pull the code or do you know anyone with a scanner or do any shops in your area offer a free diagnosis? Where are you located?
Gary Ferraro ibam in Valdosta Georgia. Free diagnostics, for land rover Bwahahaha. The one Indy here wants $210 for diagnosis. Ill try advance later
U0104 loct communication with cruise control module. Strange, ill have to double check but though it also did it with cruise off. Definatley did it with cruise on tho.
Hey Gary, what is that stone you are using? And thanks for the great videos.
What did you use to get the shaving and debris off the grooves when sanding ?
I reinserted in mineral spirits
Hi Gary, on a valve body for a 2005 BMW 545i 6HP26 trans. there are only 8 check balls, correct?
Models may vary, i just finished a 6HP26 out of 05 BMW 645 had 9 check balls
@@GaryFerraro Yes, this one looks like it only has 8.
and the filter screen is much larger than the one I've seen in your videos. I will double check again today. Thanks
Gary.
@@moytech5960 as i said models may vary, very possible it takes 8. If you like send a photo to my e-mail
gsferraro@yahoo.com
Gary, this is Steve Horn from St. Louis. I appreciate your videos and used them to successfully rebuild the valve body on my 2007 750LI 40,000 miles ago. The transmission has 180,000 miles now and I believe I need to do a complete overhaul. I spoke to Erikkson today and got pricing on the ZF kit with frictions and steels. My question is regarding the steels. They are pricey, and I am wondering how often those are a problem? Do you replace them very much and does my high mileage automatically mean that I should replace them? Thanks for your continued help!
If the steels are good, they can be reused, If you like i can hook you up with my supplier to get a price also. Sometimes i have to replace the E clutch steels trhe other s mostly are ok. So what is the car doing that it needs an overhaul? Any codes?
Gary, I recently follow the same procedure but after closing everything back up the car cannot detect which gear the transmission is in and I can move the gear lever from the P position. any Ideas as to what may be causing this?
Did you catch the slide plate with the manual valve?
Gary Ferraro I checked again and no I hadn't. but after reinstalling the tranny wouldnt reconise which gear at all it was in. and the transmission light came on. not sure what else I can do
so now its hooked up and same problem? on the ZF6HP26 there is 2 different ones to hook up, did it have this issue before? do you have access to a scan tool to see live data?
Gary Ferraro i opened it again and noticed I had it on the wrong notch on the slider. I adjusted and all is well now. thanks for your help
Glad to hear its fixed
Greetings Gary and congratulations for this videos! You do a great job. If you allow me to ask you a question ... I have an bmw E60 530d, 235ps, which has an automatic gearbox (GA6HP26Z). Sometimes, when she changing gears from 2 to 3 it does so late, somewhere at 2,500 rpm. when this problem rarely happens, I feel a smell of hot gear oil. I noticed a very small oil leak on that plug, which I understand is a common problem with these gearboxes. What do you think should be done in this situation? Who creates this delay of gear shift? Thanks in advance !
First thing to do is have the fluid level checked. that can cause problems, if its low on fluid
What feedback are you getting when putting the airline in the clutch pack gallery holes?
Do you mean airchecking the clutch packs?
Yes
@@sebastiandurrant3374 I air check with about 50 psi and usually when i release the air gun from the port i can feel the air pushing back, pretty solid check on these units
@@GaryFerraro thanks for the reply, makes sense. Great video btw.
Gary, thanks for posting up this video. I followed your procedure to replace solenoids, a transmission filter and fill up ATF for my 2003 Jaguar S Type R. The procedure was rather simple and straight forward (thanks for your detail instructions!). However, I can't seem to start the engine. Battery seemed to be OK and I don't see any error message displayed... I don't even hear the engine cranking sound. What could be the potential cause of this issue?
hi gary how you doing
i have a bmw e65 745i with zf 6hp26 my question is do i have to reprogram the new conductor plate in the mechatronic ( tcu) in order to fit the car and how how it can be done what tool should i use
Ok, it does need to be programmed, you need BMW Dealer tool. Just to confirm, this is a new TCM not a used one?
Gary Ferraro its a used one
Some say it cannot be reprogrammed, what is wrong with the original tcm?
Gary is there a cheap obd2 diy tool You can recommend that I can erase codes & reset the shift adapters? maybe read the temp as well?
The cheap ones may not do transmissions, look into scanners made by Autel, they may have something
Can I get your opinion. I have a 2010 range rover that has this trans. When I am on the highway, especially when towing if it kicks down say going 70-75 it jerks the car really, really bad and throws all kinds of faults and goes into limp mode until I shut car off and restart it. I can't tell if it's from the 6-5, 5-4 downshift. I am thinking solenoids?
How many miles? Could be either solenoids or a worn rear stator bushing. The bushing seals E clutch apply oil, when the bushing wears the apply oil escapes causing issues in the higher gears of 4th,5th and 6th. Check the fluid level too.
@@GaryFerraro 125000 miles. Fluid is fine i changed it 10000 miles ago, was having same issue before the change too. It acted up way more when i had a load while towing my boat. I had to be super careful to not let it kick down. Pretty sure it is when it goes from 6 to 4 but not 100%
@@timothyberlinski2299 do you have any torque converter codes?
@@GaryFerraro will my obd scanner pick those up or i need to take it to scan trans codes?
@@timothyberlinski2299 Transmission needs to be scanned, has it's own computer inside the transmission
Gary, great post. Thanks. I went ahead and gambled on replacing separator plate and solenoid, seal and square seal, wiring adaptor. The problem I have is after removing the bolts to split the valve body I rolled it over and it came apart. I was able to watch your video a few times and find the ball locations, the rectangular browninsh screen. I can't find the first screen you mention on the video, not sure if it was there to start with. I am working it on a bench so I assume it would have landed on the bench. The other problem I have is the plungers slid off and one is slightly different then the others. It has a more pronounced nipple instead of flat like the others. It is not torn and they all look good. Do you know which location it should go in and if the small screen that is missplaced do you think it would be ok without it.Thanks for your input!
Juan, send me your e-mail address, i have some info to send you. The side with the nipple faces down,(that goes into the valvebody) My e-mail is gsferraro@yahoo.com
Hello Gary, I have a BMW 550i with the ZF6 transmission. Did a transmission overhaul and the car worked well for a month, but reverted back to the original issue where on acceleration beyond 2000 RPM, the clutch slips and the car throws a transmission error related to Clutch E and goes into limp mode. The valve body was not touched during the overhaul, so wanted to confirm if changing just the sleeve and 4 rubber seals will fix it? Or do i have to look into replacing the solenoids as well? Shifting otherwise is quite good without jerks (only very slight jerks in lower gears, but nothing bothering). The car does not go in limp mode if the revs are limited to 2,000 RPM.
The transmission was certainly heating more due to which i have changed the heat exchanger / transmission cooler and the temps are in check now.
The E clutch does not apply through those seals. Did you install a new rear stator bushing?
Gary Ferraro, yes... And also pistons and plates. I was asked to change the whole valve body by the gearworkshop, probably because repair kits for valve body aren't available in UAE anymore
Solenoids are new? Where are you located?
No, from what I know, they haven't done much with the valve body. But to be specific about the fault it's Ratio Monitoring, clutch E. The gears shift very well when they do, but the fault comes up very easily now, particularly during acceleration. I live in UAE
Well first thing maybe to try if you havent is reset shift adapts, if that does not work, i would put a new set of solenoids in, if the rear stator bushing has been changed and the problem is still there, more than likely it's a sloenoid causing the issue. Greetings from New York
6hp26 range rover sport 2.7 tds it does not make changes and it has the errors p0732 p0733 p0734 please if you can make a video thanks
First thing is check the fluid level
Hi Gary, scanned kia mohave 2011, Zf6hp26 fault code p0746 solenoid A, if there's a bad solenoid would have to change the packets. Whenever a transmission is a rapped should be changed the mecatronic
Does the code say, shift solenoid A performance? does the car shift?
Fantastic Video Gary, very informative as i am now thinking about changing my solenoids. short story my 2006 BMW 5x 4.8is v8 with the zf6hp26 had the common shift 2 down to 1 lurch
so i serviced it with new filter and bridge seal etc. reset the adaptions now i have a lite up shift from 1 to 2 and little in to 3 lurch. do you think solenoids will help thanks...
Another great video Gary. What part of the valve body surface do you mark with the center punch? Obviously somewhere that won't cause a leak, but I couldn't tell where.
Its a center punch to mark the checkballs, i flat sand every valvebody to take the edge off and have no leaks
Yes it's a e shift!
They say you can swap the m shift solenoids. But zf doesn't recommended that.
Cold only more gearslip to warm up.
What do you mean with flare?
If the solenoids are the same color they can be swapped, the valvebodies cant be swapped. A flared shift is when it momentarily goes into neutral and the into the next gear, you will see the rpm go up and then into the next gear
Hello Gary, thank you very much for this video. I didn't do a complete overhaul, but I did change out the solenoids about 60k miles ago. I was curious to know the same thing Randy V asked; what was the stone you used for the "sanding" process? Also, I am approaching 182k; should I consider doing an over haul on my Mechatronics soon? or at all? what was going on with that Jaguar Mechatronics that you had to replace the separator plate?
I replace the separator plate on every overhaul. I think the manager got that stone at home depot one side fine the other course, not exactly sure what the grit is. When you say mechatronic are you referring to the valvebody or just the computer(tcm) are you having any shifting issues?
Great video Gary, hopefully I never need to refer to it but will appreciate it if I do. Cheers.
hanks for watching, if you do, and have any questions just let me know
Hey Gary awesome videos thanks for them.. I have a 750li and I have some questions.
I replaced my solenoids gaghp26z E shift but still not shifting into 3 or 4, I changed the bridge seal etc, took the megatronic back out and I had goop on the filters of the solenoids, does that mean my valve body bad?
That's an automatic 6speed
@@mrnutso2433 Your E clutch or rear stator bushing is no good. After solenoid replacement, did you reset shift adapts?
Hey, I gotta ask about your method of bolting things together. For example valvebody to transmission at 34:15. You don't just place bolts in their holes and let them fall into place. You tend to push them down. Slam them into place. Then turn a couple threads. Does that serve a purpose? Like help things align? Or is that just a learned habit from moving quickly?
Great video by the way.
Just a habit of doing it that way, I didnt even realized that until now. Gary
Love your content. Here down under we have these transmissions in ford falcons. Whats your thoughts on a code p0735-ff "trans gear 5 incorrect ratio" ?
Very common problem with this trans is a worn rear stator bushing, the worn bushing allows E clutch apply oil to escape causing slipping in 4th,5th and 6th gears. What is happening on the 4-5 shift?
Are Zip Kits any good or should i just shoot to have the ZF accumulator pistons replaced with my Solenoids and not bother with the Zip Kit end plug pack?
Whats the car doing? any codes? full of fluid?
no codes Gary just bumpy up shits on acceleration not smooth. it just annoying, its a bmw x5 and i have serviced it with new filter bridge seal etc. the does have 200000 KM
also the bridge seal was made in China not ZF.....filter was ZF
any issues in the higher gears 4th,5th and 6th? bushings like to wear out, do you have a scan tool to reset shift adapts?
Gary Ferraro high gears are fine when I reset the adaptations it shifts smooth the falls back to bumpy also when a temp it shifts smooth 90%
what do you use to clean the valvebodys in your sink Gary?
I use mineral spirits to clean the valvebodies
Gary Ferraro thanks for you quick reply Gary.
Gary, a couple months ago I left a message. Regarding communication issue between tranny and car. I took the Mechatronics off and the controller off and the shifter plate slid off the controller. I did notice the shifter slide plate covered in clutch sludge. When I rebuilt the mechatronics 2 month prior I didn't realize you could remove the plate and clean it. Do you normally clean the plate? Didn't see you mention anything about it. Just wondering. I am hoping that cleaning the slide plate will clear the limp mode problem !
Juan Echeverria yes I do clean it. What codes are getting. I think I talk about cleaning the plate in another video.
I was getting a code that there was a communication problem from the controller!
P1611
Juan Echeverria ok can I have year make and model of car. Sorry I don't remember I get about 20 e mails a day of questions
2004 bmw 545i
This code your finding in the ECM?
thanks gary for the information!!!!
Thanks for watching
Because of your Video i finish my 2006 BMW 750 Li
Awesome, i love to hear that, what was the problem with the car?
Hey! Great job Gary, in this same model have you ever faced the following faults for bmw 4F85, 4F83 and 4F96? Thanks in advance man
Do you have problems in the higher gears? i believe these codes are related to Clutch E which is on in gears 4th through 6th
hi Gary, as an after thought I should add that I used OEM pan but used Meyle ATF plus 6 oil, as some dude on the beemer forum said that he had a chemical analysis done comparing ZF lifeguard 6 and the Meyle Plus 6 and found them to be identical. Also Meyle is made in Germany. Also I live in Germany and I had heard that this is the only other oil to use. I'm sure you will not approve but I thought I should come clean. Its been no problem but since the temp has reached minus degrees the box is, as I say below, misbehaving. Its jerky when changing under load and revs are floating at low cruise revs.
ps its only done 235,000 kms.
John M Do you have any trouble codes? Is this acting up in the higher gears?
Gary Ferraro I have no codes sorry. I should probably invest in that department. Today I noticed that under load there was a delay betweem the gears where the revs raised and then seemed to change abruptly, I had to try and recreate the problem to be sure what gears were invloved using manual and as far as I could fathom the issue was between 3-4 and 4-5 but it didnt do it every change, mostly accelerating up a steep hill. I had this issue before when I had underfilled the oil, therefore I was wondering if it was an oil pressure issue?
John, First, Greetings from new york.
These transmissions have a very common problem of the stator bushing wearing out, when this happens you may have erratic shifting in the higher gears 4th, 5th, 6th. The worn bushing causes a pressure loss to the E clutch drum resulting in flared shifts(which means the engine will rev) Gary
Gary Ferraro thanks for your advice. My issue is that prices over here, middle of Germany, are completely insane. That said I take your point that I should investigate more before deciding a course of action. I have a ZF service centre about 40kms away, perhaps having them interogate the box should be my first step, unless of course you recommend an analysis tool I can plug in?
Gary my 745 i has Lil drag 1 to 2 like lil bump them when stopping it has bump 2 to 1. Some time hard some time not help plz
First has the fluid level been checked?
Hi Gary, where can I buy the seaparator plate and solenoid set for my BMW 750i 2010? Pls help? Thks
Do you by chance know what the definition of the code is? Where are you located?
Hi Gary, I don't know about the code definition. I am in California. Can I send you my valvebody for rebuild? Thks
so what is the car doing that you need transmission work done?
The problem is that I can not change gears Drive, Park, Reverse, etc. I installed a used mechatronic of another compatible car. And the car doesn't accept it. How can I reprogram the mechatronic (Valvebody GA6HP26Z) to work with my BMW 750i 2010? Is it possible? What are my options? Please advise. Can you fix it? Thanks
Albert Truong : put your electronic on that new mechatronic
Hi Gary how many check ball you pull out of the valve body
I think there were 8
@@GaryFerraro perfect I was rebuilding one for lr3 and I that one was missing thanks
The amounts may vary. Did you take out 8
@@GaryFerraro yes I take out 8 but I see the other spot where looks like is missing one
Hey Gary, fantastic video! Just rebuilt my ZF6HP26X valve body from my Land Rover LR3. With regards to the check balls, I removed and replaced eight balls as you did in the video. There was one position just above the dampers where it looks like there should be a check valve (the space for the ball is in the middle of the channel) and all the online manuals tell me there should be one there but it was absent when I opened the valve body. I did notice you commented a position where there is usually a check ball but it wasn't there, I'm thinking this is the same one I'm concerned about. Should I be worried that it is not there?
These valvebodies are not the same, they vary, BMW may not be the same as landrover, if there wasnt a ball there i wouldnt put one in
Many thanks for the prompt reply Gary!
Great videos Gary! I have a 03 Jaguar S Type R, Car recently begin throwing p0741 an p0732. I was sitting at the stop light an went to press the gas an the car just revs up an jerked to move. The p0741 showed before p0732 while driving on the highway in 5th, 6th would seem to lock in. P0741 i believe is the torque converter. Could this be a valve body or solenoid issue. Fluid level was correct when check, not burnt
P0741 can be a solenoid issue sure, converters do have problems as well. do you know if the code showed up while driving? Fluid level was checked with engine running correct? The 741 code is not common on this trans, did you try to clear to see if it returns
@@GaryFerraro yes the fluid was check while the car was running an in the air. The p0741 code mainly show while driving on the highway, its take sometime for it to go into 6th. the p0732 code also showed while city driving. I clear the codes with my phone obd2. The p0732 code comes back shortly after driving. I would hit the gas an the car wouldnt move an then i would feel a jerk an sometimes shudder.
Thanks for replying also.
Is p0732 common? Could this be related to a clutch issue
@@jagstrguy847 How many miles on the car? could be a clutch problem sure. When do you feel the slip? is the car ok cold and not ok hot?
@@GaryFerraro car has 150k miles. I had the tranmission rebuilt supposedly in 2017 witch never shifted 100% smooth. Can feel the slip when cold between 1 and 2.....Also, if i cold started the car an 20 seconds later place the car in drive id feel a jerk into gear. If i waited maybe 1 or 2mins it goes into drive smooth
Hey Gary, I have a 2008 range rover with the 6hp26. My transmission has some things going on with it. It has a little bit of delay when going into reverse. It also has 2-1 roll out shift problems when coming to a stop where it feels like the transmission is going to fall out of the car. It also gets the transmission fault error. I pulled code P0783, P0729, P0732. Any tips? Should I rebuild valve body? Should I do a full transmission swap? Most of the used transmissions have 80k on it. Mine has 170k. Also when I inspected my transmission fluid it was burned and had burned smell associated with it.
Thank you
lamborghini3813 This is an internal problem, you either have an issue with the Solenoids or there is a problem with the bushings worn down, this is full of fluid correct?
Yes it is full of fluid. I just want to know if it is better to change the solenoids or get a new transmission for 2000 with 90000 miles.
Also Gary I am in the Chicago area and if you know anyone or can recommend someone that would be able to fix it that would be great.
Im sorry, i do not know anyone in that area, if you go used you may have to swap out the valvebodies, these units have the TCM inside the trans, is the trans out of the car?
No not yet. It is still in the car. Yeah I think I will have to transfer the TCM from old transmission to new one.
What is that stone? I would like to find one online.
I use that to flat sand the valvebodies, fine on one side course on the other side(i never use the course side) Just goggle sanding stone and it should come up
Hello Gary
thanks for your video
i have land rover discovery 4 2010 ZF6HP26 TRANSMISSION the problem shifting from 3-4 (code p0783 )
Could you please advise me how to repair it in less cost
thank you
Ihab
well, you probably have either a solenoid issue or a worn rear stator bushing. Solenoids can be done without pulling the trans out. Does the problem happen when the car heats up?
@@GaryFerraro dear Gary
Thanks for your reply
Actually it is the same cold or heat up
But when I changed to manually or tiptronic there is no problem locking normal and shift probably
Please advise
Thanks and best regards
@@GaryFerraro I have a 05 LR3. It shifts better when it is cold. After driving around for 20+ minutes it starts shifting hard and setting off temporary Trans Fault codes.
The codes disappear when the car is restarted. Check engine light stays on. I changed the fluids and filter - no change.
Why does cold or hot matter?
How likely is it the solenoids?
Your a saint for helping!
@@xaviercastellanos9614 Can you tell me what codes are present
@@GaryFerraro I dont have the numbers BUT on the dash I read: "Transmission Fault Traction Reduced" and "Transmission Fault Limited Gears Available". Incidentally, I had the fluid flushed out and noted a few things: 1. The filter screen did not have much debris and was in good condition. 2. The oil was not super dark or contaminated. 3. There was no smell of burnt fluid. 4. The magnets only had minimal metal shavings if any. After the fluid change the car pretty much ran the same, maybe a tad bit better. Having said this, and after studying your videos closely; my plan is to now install a set of solenoids. QUESTIONS: Since I've done the fluid service w/filter, should I try to reset adapt's before I install the solenoids? Should I install the little wiring harness too? NOTE: I put a 3 inch lift and some 32.5" tires on the LR3 and NEVER reset any electronics. The truck really started to "act" up after the tire install ? Please advise... Thanks Gary!
I have a 6hp26 on bmw 535d and my trans when i go to a stop it takes too long to go to 1 gear, and if i dont wait and press the gas pedal when shift to 1 first is not soft, it shifts hard to 1º, but the tans work all ok, 0 codes, very soft, only problem is that and when i start the car it takes too long to lock the torque converter, go like 1 to 4 gear with open converter and lock very soft and never repeat that after 1 mile drive, just when is cold, if i start the car and wait 20/30 sec the trans lock normal, just when is cold do that. sry my english, the car have 288 000km with original solenoids, just oil and filter changes.
Sounds like you either may have a solenoid problem or valves hanging up in the valve body when cold. Is this your daily driver?
@@GaryFerraro yes daily, the car have this problem over 2 years and never have codes for trans, just work . But i know that is not normal, i may try to do a solenoid change and seals between the trans and valve body to see if help, on the summer the problem is not present is very strange, the car seats outside on tempo 0 or -1cº, some people say its normal that is a pre-heating cicle for trans oil, but i dont know if is normal or not.
Not so sure that is normal, what the computer strategy is sometimes is to delay the shifts when cold, so the car may seem to shift late until it heats up then it will go back to normal. The computer wants the car hot so it goes into closed loop.
@@GaryFerraro i can feel the shift, but the car stays at 2k rpm, and after 20 sec the rpm drop slow to 1200/1300rpm and lock, is very soft, if i press the full trotlhe the rpm go up but the converter lock almost instant, or if i put on DS mode the converter locks. But he main problem is de delay shift 2 for 1, this is the main problem for me.
Fábio Leça And this is only when cold correct?
Hey Gary, very nice video. I have problems with my transmission (e91 330d '06). I noticed some leaks, so changed oil pan, with the filter, seals and oil (Ravenol). Shifting before and now is perfect, nothing’s jerking, shifting very good. But after oil change when I drive more that ~10-15mil I hear the high squeak noise when I stop (something like squeaking brakes but more like R2D2 🙂 ). Shifting between P R N D makes it quiet for a second and it starts back. During the oil change mechanic said there were low fluid level - nobody knows for how long.
It sounds like you said in 42:30 about this chinese filter. How can I check if it is OEM one? Do I have to take the pan off the transmission to check? What is the common issue in these transmission when you drive too much on low fluid lvl?
Regards
ok, question, is the noise there in drive and reverse but goes away in park and neutral? was the noise there before oil change? Is the trans a ZF6HP19? Plastic or metal pan?
@@GaryFerraro no noise before. Sound is on every gear, when you add some gas it stops, when you change the gear it stops for a second. No sound when driving. Gearbox is I think ZF 6HP26.
@@Ivelliospl Is this full of fluid? does it sound like a buzzing noise?
@@GaryFerraro ehhh, thanks Gary for quick replies, but problem seems to be solved. Guys probably did something with the exhaust or some exhaust covers/protectors, because when you move the pipe at the end and press it down it stops. I will go to the machanic ASAP to get that fixed, and come back with the reply. This is the car that I've just bought. I also have a different problem. There is no sport mode. When I move the gear to sport it does nothing. Nothing changes, I can't switch gears manually and the D light is dead (P R N light works fine). Just checked the errors 511B and 5087 from EGS.
The gearbox is full of fluid, also two people that have and had the same car with the same engine and gearbox, said this one works really smooth and quiet.
Hi Gary thanks for another excellent video very informative dont you want to take on as a apprentice
Can you tell me what that pin is that you use to mark were stuff goes? whats its called?
thats a spring loaded center punch, if you use that make sure you flat sand the casting
Hi Gary, my BMW 750i valvebody is not working. Do you overhaul it?
MinhVN Truong What is the problem and are there codes present.
Hi Gary, the mchanic checked the err code, it states the solenoid 2 is not working. Here is the story, while driving @normal speed, I switch from D, automatic, to DS and the error pops up "Drivetrain malfunction". I drove a few more miles to a safe place to stop and have to turn off engine since it can not switch to P, D, R or any gear. The engine can start normally.
Question: I bought a used mechatronic from another compatible BMW 750 and replace mine? The problem now that my car doesn't regconize the mechatronic. How can reprogram it, can I? What else/options I can do to get my transmission working. Do you have a number I can call to talk? I am in California. My BMW 750i production yr 06/2010, VIN# ...CY36727. my cell 1619-335-8185. Many thanks
Is it possible for you to get the code number that was stored
I got SAE diagnostic trouble code: P15C9 (other info:122572km, 11.78 V). Is that the code you look for? Thanks
The ZF tightening sequence and torques can be found in several web sites. I got a pdf download from www.thectsc.com/images/pdf/thectsc_mechatronic_replacement.pdf
Thanks for the info
Hey Gary, great video and tons of information to learn how to to do things on the ZF mechatronic. Have 2 questions about the line up pins you used in the video at position 14:00 and 16:00:
Pos 14:00: Interested in the line up pins - what line up pins are these and where can I get them?
Pos 16:00: Are these the same line up pins you use at 14:00 or are these others - are they taken away later or are they part of the mechatronic computer and stay there?
Yes you are correct, they are part of the mechatronic computer
@@GaryFerraro What about the line up pins you used to assemble the lower half, seperator plate and the upper half of the mechatronic unit?
@@v8blubber583 I use the mechatronic pins to line everything up. I put 3 or 4 bolts in to hold the valvebody together(not tight) then i install the mechatronic unit to line everything up and install the bolts
@@GaryFerraro Just want to make sure that I understood that right - the two line up pins you used at minute 14:00 in your video are the two of the mechatronic computer which you explained at minute 16:00 stay then in the mechatronic computer - right?
@@GaryFerraro Got it Gary - thanks a lot
Can the mechatronic unit be reused if the gearbox suffered a milkshake ?
Well, you could try to clean it wash it out with mineral spirits or maybe some brake kleen, let it dry and try it, Where you getting an codes?
Hi Gary, very good and helpful video. Not long ago I did the same job on the same gearbox and did the same as you but now I don't know what happened because now I cant start the engine and I don't know where I went wrong. It looks like the gearbox isn't in the park position and I don't know whether something went wrong electrically or whatnot and I don't know what to do next - any advice?
are you sure the range switch is hooked up
Are you getting any codes? code 5088 maybe? did you have anything apart or this just started?
Is this an E shift valvebody(park is a button)?
maybe you missed the manual valve, drop the pan see if it's hooked up
Welcome, let me know
very nice man !
Thank You
i want to set up a service for automatic gearbox in Romania ,specialy for ZF .
I watch many tutorial on youtube and I am confident on them .
Do you know if the guys from ZF Germany have training sessions ?
No im sorry, i wouldnt know that, do you have alot of ZF transmissions in Romania?
Greetings from New York
Hey Gary, and great video! I have a Range Rover Sport with a same transmission and i have a problem, with the constant speed, the rpm goes up and down constantly, when accelerator stops doing...
What could be the potential cause of this issue?
Thanks for your help.
Can you tell me if you have any codes present in the Trans computer?
Hi Gary, i dont have any error... thanks in advance
Ok, does this happen at a certain speed?
hello Gary, does at any constant speed, if i accelerate (increase the rpm), he stops doing, if i desaccelarate, he stops doing again. In any climb (with effort) also makes. Thanks again!
The trans is full of fluid, you had it checked, also if it does this at any constant speed but at a certain rpm, it may be engine related
very helpful! thanks so much for the information!
Thanks for watching, please subscribe. Any Transmission questions, just let me know. Gary
FANTASTIC JOB VERY DETAILED AND INFORMATIVE. I have the same tranny in my 05 bmw 645ci and I am getting error codes 4e23 pressure control valve 4 -open circuit, and 51ad no message from receiver egs. running in limp mode(3 gear only start to stop) do you think this it just needs a #4 solenoid. there is no metal shavings other than minimal fine debris stuck to magnets.
adamfrontuto if you clear the code they come right back?
it turned out all 3 blue solenoids were dead so I replaced them with "rebuilt ones" on ebay. car runs and drives and pulls well but has a 3 second delay getting into drive and reverse. reset adaptation values and shifts good in 1st, 2nd into 3rd a bit harsh until you go to shift into 4th gear. it then revs really high, slams and then goes into limp mode and the code is 4F89 Ratio Monitoring, gearshift 3-4. I just went and bought a new valve body gasket even though mine wasn't cracked the gaskets were smashed down pretty flat. I also ordered new solenoids(haven't got them yet) just incase the others were bad. not sure what is wrong but feel like it should be valve body related not bushings or clutch packs. there are no metal shaving etc but my fluid is turning black quickly if I drive it for a day
For some reason i cant find your last message, but as far as the flare into 4th and the code, was it doing this before?
prior to me replacing the solenoids I never drove it unfortunately. I just now ordered the 4 tube like gaskets over top of the valve body(1 green 1 blue 2 black). I would assume they should stick out slightly father than the trans housing otherwise its just metal on metal. Mine are flush and don't appear to seal or look like they would anyhow
Try that,if still same issue you probably have a worn rear stator bushing.
After I replace my brick seal now mine won’t come out of park
Do you have enough fluid? low fluid it will not come out of park
Hey Gary I have a 2005 jaguar stype the transmission makes an honing noise on low RPM and the RPM goes up and down between 4th and 5th and between 5th and 6th gears I changed the bushings but still doing the same any advice please thanks
Makes the noise in all ranges, park , rev, neu, etc. Did you change the pan/filter?
Gary Ferraro pan fluids new it make the noise between gears while driving
this is an OE Pan? and not aftermarket
Gary Ferraro yes ZF pan
Did you reset shift adapts?
Thank you Gary its big work
Yes it is, thanks for watching. Gary
Can i send in my valve body for repair like this one i have a 2007 BMW 550i i want new solenoid and zipkit the who 9 yards
What the trans doing? any codes?
@@GaryFerraro 4f85 ratio monitoring clutch E
4f95 ratio monitoring clutch b -e
@@GaryFerraro it goes into Limp mode and sound and feel like it's Driving gear 3 or 4
@@Trinibad718 Ok, you could have other internal issues causing these codes as well, Bushing wear is a big problem with this trans, also just to confirm, trans fluid level is good?
@@GaryFerraro I'll open the fill plug and see
Nice clear video thnx!
I got a X5 with a ZF 6HP28.
9 Solenoids 8 in 1 row and 1 extra park on the other side of the mechatronic.
Changed out al the seals in between new filter around 200Kkm.
Still got some slow shifts between 2-3 and little rev pickup when changing.
Like its going for a non existing gear, its minor... friends dont pick it up.
Will a solenoid change fix it or should i go for the zipkit and solenoids?
Cheers!
Ok, so you have the E-shift valvebody, do you get this flare when the car is cold and hot?
@@GaryFerraro Ok, in that case it's a flare :)
I'm aiming for solenoids but the gearbox company was happy to sell me a rebuild gearbox.
What could be the root cause of the flares?.
Thnx for your fast replies!
ok, you said this happens on the 2-3 shift? how is the 3-4 shift?
Only 2-3 in low engine load cold even more than hot. Rest of the gear changes is spot on.
Thnx!
That could be valvebody and/or solenoids, I've heard people fix small issues with a zip kit and solenoids, the shift adapts will have to be reset
Great video
Thank you
Gary Ferraro what transmission does a 2005 lr3 Land Rover have 4.4 V8 SE
Gary Ferraro I lost my reverse
Should be a ZF6HP26, how are the foward gears?
fine but they slip and it goes to the F mode....I put in a 2009 range rover CPU behind the battery and didnt know they are not interchangeable..ever since I did this and changed the brake switch its been doing this....so Im going to put the old one back after I cleaned off some corrosion...then change the transmission fluid
Hey Gary thanks for the video I have a 2008 535i I bought used and lucky me had a transmission fault while driving it back it would have the malfunction screen drive slow and feels like it forces the car to downshift to 2nd gear and keeps it there my mechanic said there was a code for every gear any idea if this would help and can you give me a website or number for the guys who checked ur flow I believe u said Ericson
Have you had the fluid checked? Do you have a list of the codes?
Gary Ferraro thanks for getting back at me I checked with my mechanic and he said it has gear ratio code on all gears and if not an inconvenience he gave me permission to give u his number could u speak with him I just want my car done lol
Where are you located? If you have gear ratio errors in every gear, either this is low on fluid or possible speed sensor code also. My e-mail is gsferraro@yahoo.com e-mail the vin number. Thanks
Gary Ferraro located in North Carolina and thanks I'll email you the VIN number and my mechanics cell number please direct questions towards since I don't know squat haha
What type of shifter do you have? regular shifter where you select drive or reverse, or the the shifter that just rocks back and fourth and park is a button?
my car (2005 x5, 4.4) has no codes at all, jerks while driving, makes a whining noise, jerks more. Mostly in 3rd gear. What could be the problem? Torque converter?
Great videos by the way, thanks.
The whining noise is in all ranges? park rev, neutral, drive?
no it comes and goes, when it is whining thats when it jerks the most.
Trying to get direction, does it whine more hot than when the car is cold. What scanner are you using when you scanned the car?
im using inpa, whines the same hot or cold. Jerks the same hot or cold.
Im thinking may be doing this when torque converter is commanded on. I would check fluid level, confirm it is full(sleeve and pan like to leak) since you have a good scan tool, i would try resetting the shift adapts to see if that changes anything
Im not sure if i can remember all the check balls
I mark them each time. Thanks for watching, please subscribe
Very useful, but - credibility-wise - I have to say that with all of Gary's hard-line ZF German parts only (regardless of Jaguar dealers charging 80 bucks a liter for fluid and $250 for a pan - without bolts or mechatronic seals) - I would at least expect him to follow the factory ZF tightening sequence for the Mechatronic unit and the pan bolts.
Janet Bailey Thanks for watching, and yes you are correct, I am a fanatic when it comes to these units, I use only ZF parts because in the past I had problems when aftermarket parts were used(caught one of my suppliers selling aftermarket parts at OE prices) I actually don't have the valve body sequence for this trans just the tightening torque. Gary
you really need to reupload this into a better resolution. when you go edit your video try to go into the video settings on youtube, its not on your computer btw.
Can you tell me how to do that, when i try to upload and put the video on the channel, i get a message"theres not enough room, try a lower resolution" so im thinking its the computer, i dont have much space left with all the videos i store on here, i was going to get an external hard drive and move stuff on to that.
support.google.com/youtube/topic/2888648?hl=en
you can also get in touch with youtube and ask how to change your resolution to 720p as well.
Gary, I have a 6hp26 with slipping in 5th at low revs, slurring of shifts at med-full throttle, delay of reverse engagement, and 2-1 clunk. Im thinking solenoids. I've already done a pan drop and filter swap. A Sonnax Zip Kit seems like it wouldnt hurt, since some of the symptoms are described in their installation manual Page 4. www.sonnax.com/zip_kits. d2q1ebiag300ih.cloudfront.net/uploads/part/instructions/4379/ZF6-053-ZIP-IN_2-8-17.pdf?v=1497990557. BMW with 110K miles. I don't feel comfortable doing it myself, and don't trust anyone local. Based on your video, wondering if i could ship you my valve body for you to overhaul. Interested?
Hi gary.how many balls inside the valve body.
It may vary, do you have a bmw?
I dont have bmw but the transmision model used same in ford.
Ok so you have a 6R60 What is the year
Thank's for fedback.i'm using 2014 ford ranger. I lost my ball bearing while trying to clean it.
Thank's for fedback.i'm using 2014 ford ranger. I lost my ball bearing while trying to clean it.
THIS GUY TERRIBLE HE NO EVENT TORQUE BUY TORQUE WRENCH AS ZF RECOMMEND IT ALL BY HAND WHAT WORSE MECHANIC OR REBUILT TRANS SHOP THIS GUY ?????????
A torque wrench is used
Hello Gary. My question here, is it ok to reuse valve body mechatronics for a new rebuild valve body?
Sure, this way nothing has to be programmed. Why are you changing the valve body?
Gary Ferraro bad solenoid. Shop I took it to says they are worried that the new valve body (remain from Revmax) came with no mechatronics. I am making sure its ok to put mechatronics from last valve body on the new one. I was told it would work and just require reprogramming.
Gary Ferraro first shop. Says bad solenoids. Replaced whole valve body. Put in wrong and they gave up. Second shop I bought a new vb and want to use mechatronics from old vb on the new one. Almost 3 months in shop now and they are saying they are unsure if it will work.
a reman will not come with a mechatronic(thats the tcm) were you getting a code that would not clear? what code do you have? did you ohm the solenoids?
Gary Ferraro Transmission fault. 04 jaguar xj8. First shop told me late they had no knowledge. Second shop told me they put in new vb wrong. Just in case I purchased another. ( This one also rb from revmax) I knew there were no mts or tcm. I have had all my work done through these new shops so no testing from me. I don't have the equipment. Second shop said linkage issue from improper install.