I am an industrial Arts teacher (woods, welding, auto, ) and enjoy your videos. I too incorporate humor into my instruction. We have the same sense of humor.
Thanks. I’m happy to read there still are industrial arts in some schools. I remember my metal shop teacher by name, face and I can even still hear his voice. And that was back in the 70’s. I can’t tell you who taught wood shop. Lol. I don’t do dead tree carcass. Never did.
I made a homemade smoke machine out of a paint can. I connect it to the nozzle for syncronizing and block off air pod or box side of the carb usually using a plastic bag and rubber band. I apply very low air pressure to my smoke injecting smoke into the carb. If there is a leak the smoke will tell you.
If you can't get any measurable readings from your carb tune pro, you need to make absolutely sure that the valves are properly adjusted. Also, if this is a high mileage bike I would do a compression check on each cylinder to make sure that is within spec., The age of the bike would also require a complete overhaul of the carbs. I have a 2002 Kawasaki C10 which just had a complete carb overhaul which solved an erratic idle problem. Hope this helps.
I think it might be cool if, when you play the snippets, you also edit out your own comment. Now and then it might be funnier that way. Just a thought. Enjoy these videos anyway, thanks. Fixing bikes with good sense and good humour😊
I absolutely love watching your videos. I live in Riverview and I wish I had your information so you can work on my bike when I need it. Please provide lol
Hi mate love your show - been working on BS 34 for years hope changing rubber in plunger works but in my experience when the rubber fails they normally run way rich the brass section blocks the airflow to diaphragm regards jim
I'm not sure how that'd work being they're steel cylindrical pieces I think they'd fall to the top and the vacuum comes in from the top, therefore they'd simply be pinned in place.
@@MotoRestoFL I worked with carbtune on my CX500, it had the same problem as yours: it didn't show readings. Over the years I read about more CX-owners who complained about the carbtune not giving visible readings. On one CX it does, on the other it doesn't. Both well running engines, you tell me how that's possible, I don't know. It's about 10 years ago I emailed with the manufacturer. They themselves adviced me to hang the carbtune upside down. So I did and got readings. Since I have never become very handy in syncing carbs I cannot tell you how reliable those upside-down measurements were. But it's worth to give it a try I reckon.
That’s a good idea. I just tried it. It does hold vacuum better but not great. And if the plunger is literally breathed on it dumps vacuum quickly. So these damned things are bad no doubt. I’ve seen worse in other carbs and it hasn’t made iota impact on running like these do.
I didn't think the top end re-work would fix it, you had ~140 or ~160 on all 4 if I recall. I wonder if (with that many miles) one or both of the silencers are clogged. When the choke thing doesn't work maybe it's worth pulling the silencers off, just run the open header and check if that's it. Good videos, it helps showing the ones that are a challenge.
I pulled the exhaust today and blocked off the crossover with tape and used a shop vac first on vacuum then on blowing with a reducer nozzle on the hose. Checked one header pipe while pudding my hand over the other and no appreciable change in the tone of the vacuum. In other words there was flow with minimal restriction. I could see the tape over the crossover “heaving” slightly in either function, but that’s to be expected since all exhausts have an intrinsic restriction through the baffling or chambers. So definitely no evidence of any significant blockage. This exhaust is a split system 2 into 1 with the aforementioned crossover. Both sides reacted about the same.
@@wastingmymoneyonmotorcycles I will have a difficult time doing that until probably during the week being a holiday weekend, but I could give it a whirl then. It's too damned loud without the pipes installed.
Do I really understand that there is no intake pulse on the manifold?? Block off the manifold rubber, and crank it with the starter to eliminate engine components as the cause. I've never seen a bad enricher valve rubber, but there's always a first. If the enricher is not closed then that cylinder will be working harder, not less. My Japanese fours with enricher circuitry will do nearly 60 mph, and you can make it home with a broken throttle cable. But an intact "choke" cable. It seem unlikely that the enricher will pull air and not pull fuel. Don't give up.
There’s no measurable intake pulse on the carb tune pro at idle where it should be highest. I should have clarified that. The operative term “measurable.” So I can’t synchronize the carbs. No reading. I thought about the manifold thing haven’t done it yet but I know the intake passages are patent because I pressure tested them with a rubber plug and a tube hooked to my pressure tester. I don’t understand it either but there is a definite bypass going on with the enrichers. They’re not “open” but leaking air. The enricher works properly when they are opened to start cold. I’ll report back on further testing.
I am an industrial Arts teacher (woods, welding, auto, ) and enjoy your videos. I too incorporate humor into my instruction. We have the same sense of humor.
Thanks. I’m happy to read there still are industrial arts in some schools. I remember my metal shop teacher by name, face and I can even still hear his voice. And that was back in the 70’s. I can’t tell you who taught wood shop. Lol. I don’t do dead tree carcass. Never did.
I made a homemade smoke machine out of a paint can. I connect it to the nozzle for syncronizing and block off air pod or box side of the carb usually using a plastic bag and rubber band. I apply very low air pressure to my smoke injecting smoke into the carb. If there is a leak the smoke will tell you.
This bike has eat my lunch. Enjoyed the video and RIDE SAFE OUT THERE!
If you can't get any measurable readings from your carb tune pro, you need to make absolutely sure that the valves are properly adjusted. Also, if this is a high mileage bike I would do a compression check on each cylinder to make sure that is within spec., The age of the bike would also require a complete overhaul of the carbs. I have a 2002 Kawasaki C10 which just had a complete carb overhaul which solved an erratic idle problem. Hope this helps.
Thanks for all the info/video! I'm leaving for Portland at the moment - but will watch the end when I get back. I hope you get her running good!
Which Portland?
I think it might be cool if, when you play the snippets, you also edit out your own comment. Now and then it might be funnier that way. Just a thought. Enjoy these videos anyway, thanks. Fixing bikes with good sense and good humour😊
I absolutely love watching your videos. I live in Riverview and I wish I had your information so you can work on my bike when I need it. Please provide lol
It's right on my About page on this channel. motorestofl@gmail.com. thanks.
Hi mate love your show - been working on BS 34 for years hope changing rubber in plunger works but in my experience when the rubber fails they normally run way rich the brass section blocks the airflow to diaphragm regards jim
The more I dabble with it, the less confident I am.
About your carbtune device. Try to hang it upside down and use it that way. It may work.
I'm not sure how that'd work being they're steel cylindrical pieces I think they'd fall to the top and the vacuum comes in from the top, therefore they'd simply be pinned in place.
@@MotoRestoFL I worked with carbtune on my CX500, it had the same problem as yours: it didn't show readings. Over the years I read about more CX-owners who complained about the carbtune not giving visible readings. On one CX it does, on the other it doesn't. Both well running engines, you tell me how that's possible, I don't know. It's about 10 years ago I emailed with the manufacturer. They themselves adviced me to hang the carbtune upside down. So I did and got readings. Since I have never become very handy in syncing carbs I cannot tell you how reliable those upside-down measurements were. But it's worth to give it a try I reckon.
@@MH-ks1ob ok. I’ll try that. Thanks.
Put some Blue Tak over the hole in the diaphragm chamber then check for vacuum.
That’s a good idea. I just tried it. It does hold vacuum better but not great. And if the plunger is literally breathed on it dumps vacuum quickly. So these damned things are bad no doubt. I’ve seen worse in other carbs and it hasn’t made iota impact on running like these do.
What about the carb manifold boots, have you checked them for cracks?
Brand new. That’s the first thing I changed months ago. Everything is new except the carbs themselves.
nearly there,those plungers do that
I didn't think the top end re-work would fix it, you had ~140 or ~160 on all 4 if I recall. I wonder if (with that many miles) one or both of the silencers are clogged. When the choke thing doesn't work maybe it's worth pulling the silencers off, just run the open header and check if that's it.
Good videos, it helps showing the ones that are a challenge.
Yea I need to delve into the exhaust more and 100% verify. They look ok but… good advice.
I pulled the exhaust today and blocked off the crossover with tape and used a shop vac first on vacuum then on blowing with a reducer nozzle on the hose. Checked one header pipe while pudding my hand over the other and no appreciable change in the tone of the vacuum. In other words there was flow with minimal restriction. I could see the tape over the crossover “heaving” slightly in either function, but that’s to be expected since all exhausts have an intrinsic restriction through the baffling or chambers. So definitely no evidence of any significant blockage. This exhaust is a split system 2 into 1 with the aforementioned crossover. Both sides reacted about the same.
@@MotoRestoFL Did you try just running it with the silencers off?
@@wastingmymoneyonmotorcycles no sir. See above. They are flowing normally as far as I can test them.
@@wastingmymoneyonmotorcycles I will have a difficult time doing that until probably during the week being a holiday weekend, but I could give it a whirl then. It's too damned loud without the pipes installed.
Do I really understand that there is no intake pulse on the manifold??
Block off the manifold rubber, and crank it with the starter to eliminate engine components as the cause.
I've never seen a bad enricher valve rubber, but there's always a first.
If the enricher is not closed then that cylinder will be working harder, not less. My Japanese fours with enricher circuitry will do nearly 60 mph, and you can make it home with a broken throttle cable. But an intact "choke" cable.
It seem unlikely that the enricher will pull air and not pull fuel.
Don't give up.
There’s no measurable intake pulse on the carb tune pro at idle where it should be highest. I should have clarified that. The operative term “measurable.” So I can’t synchronize the carbs. No reading. I thought about the manifold thing haven’t done it yet but I know the intake passages are patent because I pressure tested them with a rubber plug and a tube hooked to my pressure tester. I don’t understand it either but there is a definite bypass going on with the enrichers. They’re not “open” but leaking air. The enricher works properly when they are opened to start cold. I’ll report back on further testing.
@@MotoRestoFL Winston Churchill, "Never, never, never, never give up"!!
1st
Pull off the exhaust and start it, if the vaccum reading comes back up your exhaust is restricted most likely the cat---converter is bad.