Helped me out bro I wasn’t gonna mess with my Buick cause it has rod knock but today I learned that it only takes about six or seven f***s and a little work and I can get this done 😂..preciate ya bro
Two things I noticed. Oil behind the bearing. I don’t do it. I say if you do use the lightest oil you can find. Preferential I guess. Polishing the journal. Put the straw of a can of break clean in the oil gallery and lightly spray the sandpaper and gum junk out of there. Overall a nice video. Have fun and don’t be afraid to try something.
I got a 2010 Mazda 6 mark-cd diesel that caught the injector Black Death, clogged the oil pickup, and cut off oil to the bearing… cleaned and fixed everything else… now your video here just gave me the courage to attempt the bearing replacements with engine in place. 🦁🔥
I used to change rod bearings out all the time as the shop owner I would listen to the engine when I change the oil if it rattled I would talk to the customer about changing some rod bearings. And maybe an oil pump.
Had a 30k Mile AMC 304 v8 that had a carb float stick and filled the crank case full of gas and contaminated the oil . Then it sat for a decade. The shit ethanol in the gas I guess ate the bearings up. At least the first layer of plating on the factory bearings . Not all of it but enough I wanted to do something about it. Still had decent hot oil pressure at least for a amc v8. I noticed the bearings showing some copper when I went to replace the rear main seal. The crank journals mic'd out fine and looked great. Tag showed standard size bearings. I ended up running stock size bearings in both the crank and the rods.. I put them in ALL FROM UNDER THE CAR. It hasn't had a issue since. I run 15w40 Rotella and a zinc additive in it as well.
Also the bearings are top and bottom specific the bearing with a hole in it is the top block side bearing. It line's up with oil journal. Most bearings will only fit in one way. The correct way.
Replaced mine on a 2001 Jeep WJ: The bearing caps are cast into the block as part of the manufacturing process and then snapped off so that they only fit in one spot and in one orientation, it is therefore necessary to softly tap on each bearing cap with the wooden handle of a hammer to get it to seat first. Just torquing down the bearing caps without tamping them down first can lead to cracking of the bearing caps.
i gotta tell ya, your video was very good. im working on a ford escape, and am replacing my rod bearings. been watching alot of videos on this subject and yours is best at lighting, sound and i love the language. thx
@@ceomaliyeckal1307 working on a 06 escape. Just ordered gauges so i can measure bearing clearance. Not enough information online nor on the escape forums. I may get the Haynes manual also. If you get any good information please pass it on.
very cool. i got this ranger with a rod knock i can buy for like $300. it looks like i just need to replace the bearings (i hope) the way you showed me how to do it doesn't look that hard, i like how i dont gotta put it on a lift or take the engine off
I didn’t have any Lucas lube so I just went to the cabinet and got some KY his/hers and just used a little of each on opposite sides, just to give the bearings that cooking sensation they deserve. 😊
I had elongated one of the rods just like yours. There are two ways to handle it. 1) add a shim to the lower bearing or get an oversize bearing for the lower half until your plastigauge shows its in spec. 2) Grind down the rod cap to con rod mating edges until your plastigauge shows its back in spec. I did 1) and it's held up fine for 6 months now in a turbocharged engine. 2) Is probably the more correct way. Both procedures can be done with the engine in the car still.
@@terrellscaife2411 If you haven't ground your crank at a machine shop, then start with standard sized bearings. Then plastigauge to check its within specs.
Good job buddy nice end important video to show Mechanic's how to do with out engine out they don't like your video I no what they think thanks and i appreciate your show and Job to show por people to do by self with out mechanic Steeler shop.becose they like to make money easy with out you do 🤟🔥
Looks like I have a project to do now after my Pontiac just had spun a bearing. Thanks for the DIY video I'll update and let ya know how mine turns out...
I thought I would be doing the same but in the process of doing it now and it’s actually one of the easiest jobs! I bought new ones cause mine were shot but very helpful video!
Thanks for video, my car has oil pump in the way so can't access the rod, did you have same issue but already removed the oil pump? I'm not sure how to remove the oil pump
Never lube the back side of main or rod bearings. Lube only the front side, assembly lube is preferred because its more like a grease and can handle start up for the first time better.
Here is another video, "Inside the Box" AMG factory, engine building, at the two minute fifty five, the Mercedes engine builder puts copious amounts of oil between rod and back of the bearing... th-cam.com/video/H82scwzyhh0/w-d-xo.html
mines had the same noise I had to replace the timing oil tensioner because it was leaking oil really bad and my bro always ran it on low oil. Now the engine will crank and start but won’t stay on I had to replace the battery because it was bad. Maybe the bad battery fried my alternator? Or maybe I missed aligned the timing when replacing the oil timing tensioner? Ahh am stuck trying to figure out if I need a new engine or not?
Hello I have a question. The area you are working on it is where the oil pan goes right? I I basically need t take the oil pan out the reach the area you are working on then I am gonna be able to replace rod bearings?
Remove the Plugs and the Crank turns super easy/ Nice video, I once was in the Alaskan wilderness lost a bearing and cut up my leather pants belt and used leather as the bearing. Literally lasted a year.... js
So how did everything turn out after you put the engagement back together? I've done this year ago after changing the crank but did change the connecting rods... they became baffled and out of round. That led to the engine falling shortly afterwards. It was on a 350 block.
We actually had to order a pair of 20 thousandths oversized bearings for the first connecting rod and the rest were standard sized bearings we slapped everything back together and she started up first crank
@@Nasperformance Really! Well that's nice. Ordered a set of oversized Baring was a smart move. That's awesome. Thanks for sharing with us your experience 👍.
@@MatthewBecker7 there would still have been a tiny amount. Not nearly as much as in the video. Just enough to fit a sheet of paper or two in between. Thats all the play you need.
Bro My FA20 Small block started knocking on me this past weekend. I hope it isn’t anything more serious than I quick bearing replacement. Honestly I’m nervous as fuck to open her up like that but watching you do this made it look dumb easy. How did it run after you replaced the bearings?
So i have a 93 5.0 i took the rod bearings and mixed up the the tops marked some but by the time i realized it was too late is there anyway to fix this
What do you suggest we should do when It comes to torquing down the rods. Should we reuse, swap to new OEM rods or get arp? I've read that we will need to resize rods with arp. Are we simply working with what we have and then just send it?
Dispite what a lot of people say here, you can reuse rod bolts as long as the bolts haven't been torqued over the TTY i.e. "Torque to yield value" and have not been permanently deformed. Suggestion when torquing the rod bolts creep up on the maximum torque numbers in stages slowly being sure to torque each bolt evenly as you go up in torque to the max torque. Best to apply assembly lube to the journals and bearing surfaces that face each other, it is thicker then oil and gives more protection since the oil pump won't supply oil to the bearings until the pump primes itself and starts pumping oil again.
You have to use super glue on the back side of the new bearing, especially if the bearing shell has been spinning a lot inside the rod cap. It's actually a trick from stock car racing. The engines go back together for a lot more high revs.
Hey great video by da way so I wanted to know what motor was that you were working on I infact have a wat seems to be rod knock im my 03 jeep 4.7l limited I'm going to be doing this for my motor and your vid is great 👍 for step my step ill also be doing the cams timing chain and the lifters and rocker arms on it I had a oil leak when I first bought and I finally got it fixed but I guess da damage was already done Is the car u fixed still running no issues
This comment probably is not going to help now but anytime you have a rod knocking in your car and it's bad enough that you're hearing it you should always have that Rod recondition
Did this job workout for u? just wondering , I'm about to attempt thrust washers on my pt cruiser . maybe the whole set. is it still running? any knocking ?
Haha I mean I wouldn’t do this to any car but shit they do stuff like this all the time in Bangladesh and it works for an unknown amount of time. Do it still run?
I have a Chevy 1996 5.7L 350 Sb is knocking noise. I took the oil pan out and found metal residual. I was told I need a new engine. The engine turn on and drives. Any advice please. Thanks
I planned on doing this for my rod knock and not going past 4k rpm like at all. Just get 3k to 10k miles out my car would help continue to go to work and save up for a new car or proper fix
Nice to see that having tourettes has not stopped him from doing the job he loves. Great work.
Yeah, tourettes, the champion's illness.... 😆😸😆😸
@@abdulalhazred4589 that explains why I'm currently not a champion then. I need to swear more 😂
Lol
I won't use this video while my childs around.
He sounds like a 5 year old that just learned curse words
0:01 second in , I see blood -- a true mechanic 😅❤
Helped me out bro I wasn’t gonna mess with my Buick cause it has rod knock but today I learned that it only takes about six or seven f***s and a little work and I can get this done 😂..preciate ya bro
What Buick you got and what size motor is it
@@Nasperformance 2003 park avenue 3.8L
Don’t forget the liquid courage 🍻
The most amazing thing about this video is the fact he’s probably a millennial, yet has the knowledge to build a motor. Great job my dude
Actually gen z
millennials are 40 bro. We were doing this shit in the early 2ks
Why would the be a surprise?
@@DesertRider250r you understood what I was saying, correct?
I wouldn't call this jank at all dude this is a work of art.
Two things I noticed. Oil behind the bearing. I don’t do it. I say if you do use the lightest oil you can find. Preferential I guess. Polishing the journal. Put the straw of a can of break clean in the oil gallery and lightly spray the sandpaper and gum junk out of there. Overall a nice video. Have fun and don’t be afraid to try something.
Yes I just heard 👂. From pro . Don’t put oil on back of rod n bearing. I agree. . Don’t oil both sides.
Yup probably a cause for spinning them
I got a 2010 Mazda 6 mark-cd diesel that caught the injector Black Death, clogged the oil pickup, and cut off oil to the bearing… cleaned and fixed everything else… now your video here just gave me the courage to attempt the bearing replacements with engine in place. 🦁🔥
How did you end up going?
I love the rawness of this video, real good video man.
Thanks man appreciate that
For polishing the crank journal, I recommend an old fashioned, cloth measuring tape. It's roughly the same width, and it applies more even pressure.
Thanks for the advice
so the rod cap was polished, the crank was polished, but the rod itself was not. How would you go about that?
Fossil, Nah because then you can't wrap 360 degrees around.
and a drill.
or wide flat shoe laces.
I used to change rod bearings out all the time as the shop owner I would listen to the engine when I change the oil if it rattled I would talk to the customer about changing some rod bearings. And maybe an oil pump.
You should try 0000 steel wool for the rod.
You can use it to pull rust off chrome and it won't scratch so it will keep the surface smooth.
“don’t know his name, I just know him as the kid that sags his pants like a dumbass” had me laughing hard!
Had a 30k Mile AMC 304 v8 that had a carb float stick and filled the crank case full of gas and contaminated the oil . Then it sat for a decade. The shit ethanol in the gas I guess ate the bearings up. At least the first layer of plating on the factory bearings . Not all of it but enough I wanted to do something about it. Still had decent hot oil pressure at least for a amc v8. I noticed the bearings showing some copper when I went to replace the rear main seal. The crank journals mic'd out fine and looked great. Tag showed standard size bearings. I ended up running stock size bearings in both the crank and the rods.. I put them in ALL FROM UNDER THE CAR. It hasn't had a issue since. I run 15w40 Rotella and a zinc additive in it as well.
I love rotella
Also the bearings are top and bottom specific the bearing with a hole in it is the top block side bearing. It line's up with oil journal. Most bearings will only fit in one way. The correct way.
This is really clever. Great job!
greetings from Western Australia. Great vid.
Replaced mine on a 2001 Jeep WJ: The bearing caps are cast into the block as part of the manufacturing process and then snapped off so that they only fit in one spot and in one orientation, it is therefore necessary to softly tap on each bearing cap with the wooden handle of a hammer to get it to seat first. Just torquing down the bearing caps without tamping them down first can lead to cracking of the bearing caps.
Jeep is junk.
Did it work?
Tourettes, must be hereditary. Sounds like the rest of the family has it too.
@@poolbob8776 He's like a toddler that just learned curse words
I love the vide but I wish you showed how to get the bearings
BUT I REALLY LOVE THE VIDEO
thanks man
i gotta tell ya, your video was very good. im working on a ford escape, and am replacing my rod bearings. been watching alot of videos on this subject and yours is best at lighting, sound and i love the language. thx
Thank you 🙏 we try to record everything we do and try to get the best angle so that it’s easy to understand
Im also watching all these videos trying to change my 2009 ford escape rod bearings. Did u changed it?
@@ceomaliyeckal1307 yes I change mine but it was on a 2004 Chevy Colorado
@@ceomaliyeckal1307 working on a 06 escape. Just ordered gauges so i can measure bearing clearance. Not enough information online nor on the escape forums. I may get the Haynes manual also. If you get any good information please pass it on.
@@Ronnie-zn9sx th-cam.com/video/8Eyk7cRgYX0/w-d-xo.html this video may help
Thanks no one else has any videos on this topic
very cool. i got this ranger with a rod knock i can buy for like $300. it looks like i just need to replace the bearings (i hope) the way you showed me how to do it doesn't look that hard, i like how i dont gotta put it on a lift or take the engine off
This will only extend the life of the engine a couple of months
U can buy anew crankshaft for it too.
I didn’t have any Lucas lube so I just went to the cabinet and got some KY his/hers and just used a little of each on opposite sides, just to give the bearings that cooking sensation they deserve. 😊
Pleasurable for the engine?? 🫣🫢🤣🤣
@@YeOldeGeezer Always be sure to pleasure the engine, no exceptions. Every good mechanic knows this.
@@intraterrestrial69 🙏 🤝 👍
Hey bro did you have to measure bearing clearance or did you just slap the new bearings on and torque them down to spec
I had elongated one of the rods just like yours. There are two ways to handle it. 1) add a shim to the lower bearing or get an oversize bearing for the lower half until your plastigauge shows its in spec. 2) Grind down the rod cap to con rod mating edges until your plastigauge shows its back in spec. I did 1) and it's held up fine for 6 months now in a turbocharged engine. 2) Is probably the more correct way. Both procedures can be done with the engine in the car still.
I got a question for you what’s the best way to figure out what size rod bearings you need
@@terrellscaife2411 If you haven't ground your crank at a machine shop, then start with standard sized bearings. Then plastigauge to check its within specs.
🙏
Do You drive it normal and race it or do You drive only low revs?
@@V8Lounge Low rev the first 500 miles or so, now normal, up to red line with full boost.
thanks this really helped a lot with changing my oil
Good job buddy nice end important video to show Mechanic's how to do with out engine out they don't like your video I no what they think thanks and i appreciate your show and Job to show por people to do by self with out mechanic Steeler shop.becose they like to make money easy with out you do 🤟🔥
Iv done this works great. Just keep everything clean and grab yourself a set of Standard and 20 over bearings
That is exactly what we did👍🏽
U mean 20 under right? Like .0020” undersized..
Or .020”. Not .00…
What year and model? Also did you take off the oil pump/ladder frane ?
Looks like I have a project to do now after my Pontiac just had spun a bearing. Thanks for the DIY video I'll update and let ya know how mine turns out...
How did it turn out? My car is making the same noise
How’d it go man
Update?
Engine blew
🤣🤣 I was laughing the whole time! Thanks for the vid
Impressive! If I was doing that, I'd be saying a lot more curse words.... I tend to be a Murph magnet when doing stuff like that
I thought I would be doing the same but in the process of doing it now and it’s actually one of the easiest jobs! I bought new ones cause mine were shot but very helpful video!
Thanks for video, my car has oil pump in the way so can't access the rod, did you have same issue but already removed the oil pump? I'm not sure how to remove the oil pump
You can tell my mans uses that hand quite often 😁
Never lube the back side of main or rod bearings. Lube only the front side, assembly lube is preferred because its more like a grease and can handle start up for the first time better.
so lube the side that touches the crank?
@@porigense67 yes. Oil isn't supposed to go on the backside where there is nothing moving. It can put you at higher risk of spinning a bearing.
@@tnfloose9023 Papadakis and many more engine builders apply oil to the rod caps...
th-cam.com/video/yAt-fkTntjE/w-d-xo.html
Here is another video, "Inside the Box"
AMG factory, engine building, at the two minute fifty five, the Mercedes engine builder puts copious amounts of oil between rod and back of the bearing...
th-cam.com/video/H82scwzyhh0/w-d-xo.html
Why sand the back surface of the bearing cap just so it will be shinny, seems that it will be more likely to spin a bearing?
What was the result? Engine still running? Trying to decide whether i do mine or not
Would you take a cross country trip after doing this?
mines had the same noise I had to replace the timing oil tensioner because it was leaking oil really bad and my bro always ran it on low oil. Now the engine will crank and start but won’t stay on I had to replace the battery because it was bad. Maybe the bad battery fried my alternator? Or maybe I missed aligned the timing when replacing the oil timing tensioner? Ahh am stuck trying to figure out if I need a new engine or not?
Nice video thank you
God Bless you in The Name of JESUS for making and Posting This Video
Does this process also work for doing I’m on the very end of the crank the caps
You should never use anything between the rod cap and the rod bearing.
I assume you mean lube, in which case I agree. You don't want the bearing to move in the cap
Tha 2 that thumbs-down me if you believe you should one day you will learn your lesson cuz it will happen
@@robertbrown6755I know a guy that used loctite between the rod cap and the rod bearing. It's an old trick from stock car racing.
Hello I have a question. The area you are working on it is where the oil pan goes right? I I basically need t take the oil pan out the reach the area you are working on then I am gonna be able to replace rod bearings?
Yes
Remove the Plugs and the Crank turns super easy/ Nice video, I once was in the Alaskan wilderness lost a bearing and cut up my leather pants belt and used leather as the bearing. Literally lasted a year.... js
thank you for this video 😂😂👌👌
Did you have a rod knock? What kind of vehicle?
After the third time you said, fuck I just had to subscribe. Lol. Awesomeness at its best 👌.
Thanks man😂I try my best to not cus but while you work on a car it just comes out 😂
So how did everything turn out after you put the engagement back together? I've done this year ago after changing the crank but did change the connecting rods... they became baffled and out of round. That led to the engine falling shortly afterwards. It was on a 350 block.
We actually had to order a pair of 20 thousandths oversized bearings for the first connecting rod and the rest were standard sized bearings we slapped everything back together and she started up first crank
@@Nasperformance Really! Well that's nice. Ordered a set of oversized Baring was a smart move. That's awesome. Thanks for sharing with us your experience 👍.
@@Nasperformance the question was more, long term, did it run well many months later? any other rod knock issues?
@@Nasperformance after putting the 20 thousandth oversized was there still a little bit of play?
@@MatthewBecker7 there would still have been a tiny amount. Not nearly as much as in the video. Just enough to fit a sheet of paper or two in between. Thats all the play you need.
My eyes went wide when he lubed behind the bearing
how bad was the engine knock when you reassembled then? did piston #1 last more than 6 months?
Why?
When turning your harmonic balancer like this do you not have to set the timing back? Does it not mess with timing
No not at all the timing is hooked up to the crank sprocket
Only if you remove the belt
how long do you use the shoe strings on the journal. I’m doing this and don’t want to sand it too long.😂😂😂
Definitely gonna give this a crack, my Ranger has a slight knock
Great video the shoelace is og
Thank you
Thanks very much to see this
Sounds like me when I fuck up something simple while working on a car🤣
the 'f***s" be killing me. 🤣🤣🤣
Ok, FUUUUUCK!!!!!🤣🤣🤣
Nice work fellas!!!
Bro My FA20 Small block started knocking on me this past weekend. I hope it isn’t anything more serious than I quick bearing replacement. Honestly I’m nervous as fuck to open her up like that but watching you do this made it look dumb easy. How did it run after you replaced the bearings?
So i have a 93 5.0 i took the rod bearings and mixed up the the tops marked some but by the time i realized it was too late is there anyway to fix this
Hey bro i was wondering if i change my 2007 civic 1.8l rod bearingz do i oversize ? Or how do i know which one to buy
You have to measure the diameter of your crank shaft rod journal with a micrometer and search up your factory measurement and do the math from there
Since when do you lube the backside of the bearing? If you want a spun bearing then go for it.
He should've used just regular motor oil. There's supposed to be .0001 to .0002 tolerance for oil to get in there. Heavy lube will prevent that
Thanks brother
What do you suggest we should do when It comes to torquing down the rods. Should we reuse, swap to new OEM rods or get arp?
I've read that we will need to resize rods with arp. Are we simply working with what we have and then just send it?
To be honest you don’t really need arp bolts if you aren’t building it but that doesn’t mean you can’t its just preference
Dispite what a lot of people say here, you can reuse rod bolts as long as the bolts haven't been torqued over the TTY i.e. "Torque to yield value" and have not been permanently deformed. Suggestion when torquing the rod bolts creep up on the maximum torque numbers in stages slowly being sure to torque each bolt evenly as you go up in torque to the max torque. Best to apply assembly lube to the journals and bearing surfaces that face each other, it is thicker then oil and gives more protection since the oil pump won't supply oil to the bearings until the pump primes itself and starts pumping oil again.
Can you change the thrust washer while the motor is in the car
Curious how long this latest before spinning a bearing or knocking again
10k miles Max.
You have to use super glue on the back side of the new bearing, especially if the bearing shell has been spinning a lot inside the rod cap. It's actually a trick from stock car racing. The engines go back together for a lot more high revs.
Hey great video by da way so I wanted to know what motor was that you were working on I infact have a wat seems to be rod knock im my 03 jeep 4.7l limited
I'm going to be doing this for my motor and your vid is great 👍 for step my step ill also be doing the cams timing chain and the lifters and rocker arms on it I had a oil leak when I first bought and I finally got it fixed but I guess da damage was already done
Is the car u fixed still running no issues
This comment probably is not going to help now but anytime you have a rod knocking in your car and it's bad enough that you're hearing it you should always have that Rod recondition
Did this job workout for u? just wondering , I'm about to attempt thrust washers on my pt cruiser . maybe the whole set.
is it still running? any knocking ?
Ran great just ended up ls swaping it
Bro the best commentary ever. "FUCK"
Thanks😂
Love this video hahaha
Great free fireworks you just increased 800hp straight throught engine to planet mars
What I’m wondering is why does your cap portion of the bearing have an oil hole? Shouldn’t that be on the top end in the saddle (block)?!
My f series honda both sides of bearing have the oil passage. I guess so they can go top or bottom.
How well did this job hold up? About to do this myself. Thanks in advance for the reply
Held up extremely good actually but my motor started to have oiling problems and blew up 😂 so I ls swapped it
@@Nasperformance 🤣🤣 was it from the bearings
@@kashtaandrade4017 no the oil pump went out and starved the motor😂
This video is great lol😂
Thanks for the help 👍
Your welcome
Haha I mean I wouldn’t do this to any car but shit they do stuff like this all the time in Bangladesh and it works for an unknown amount of time. Do it still run?
I have a Chevy 1996 5.7L 350 Sb is knocking noise. I took the oil pan out and found metal residual. I was told I need a new engine. The engine turn on and drives. Any advice please. Thanks
Did you figure out what it was?
Just replace the engine. Got a good deal on ebay. New block. Thanks
Bloody knuckles 💯
I have a 6.0 and the clatter my best guess is the rid knock. Please comment if it ran like a champ.
That number 1 problem. You could have used oversized bearings
You always always always want to replace any type of main internal bolts that are torqued.
What of they don't fit the same as the originals?
If its knocking, the crankshaft will have to be ground because its beyond spec! You have to fix the problem that caused the Knock!
Were u get the part
Have to empty the engine oil or transmission oil thank you. Please help
Como quedó viejon , no tienes video de como quedó?
Quedo vien Perron pero se me andaba quemando el aceite I se chingo todo
Aguanto come 7,000 millas pero si viera tenido aceite todavia estaria corriendo
Can u do 1 wit the motor running?
Did you happen to remove the spark plugs while doing this
Yes we did we removed them to get rid of compression so that we can turn the motor over by the harmonic balancer
Chrysler 300? Could you tell me the specs for the bearings?
What year and engine size?
How many miles did it run before it spun again?
That’s what I wanna know
So the first rod is supposed to be kinda loose to we’re it shakes?
Nah it was just fucked up
@@nelsonmarquina9427 oh okay so you just put on a thicker bearing?
What he said ?^
Did this thing have a bad rod knock before you did this ??
Yes extremely bad rod knock
But it ended up working for a good 5-6 months then it shot a rod
How much you charge to fix my engine
What grid ?
I cuss too! Lol 😂
If you’re not going higher than 2000 rpm that’s the way to go :)
What do u mean
I planned on doing this for my rod knock and not going past 4k rpm like at all.
Just get 3k to 10k miles out my car would help continue to go to work and save up for a new car or proper fix
When he libed the cap i was like wtf
How do you know if you need an over size bearing?
Use a micrometer and measure the outside diameter of the crank also google your engines factory diameter and compare the two measurements
@@Nasperformance thank you so much for your help
What’s the torque spec on those rod bearing bolts
This dude doesnt even know what that means lol
Crankshaft, saying goodbye 😂
Would this affect my timing?
If the bearing spun, crank is gonna be "flat" spotted on load side. Knock will be quieter but will end the same eventually
It will keep it from shooting out the oil pan right ? Lol I saw this video when my van was knocking I wish I would’ve listened