How to EASILY Diagnose Engine Connecting Rod Knock! Spun Rod Bearing
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ต.ค. 2024
- Freddy shows you how to diagnose engine connecting rod knock or spun rod bearing and goes through the steps to find out if it's a connecting rod knock, and which cylinder it is.
Long Extension: amzn.to/2PZ4mcT
Rubber Mallet: amzn.to/2K9FXf6
1/2 ratchet: amzn.to/2RW86cg
Support PMM by shopping through our store: ►astore.amazon.c...
►FAIL playlist: • That's not supposed to...
►1JZ Supra Drift Missile Build Playlist: • Drift Missile Build Pt...
►Altezza IS300 Mods: • Sway Bar Upgrade IS300...
►AE86 Corolla GTS Resto-Mod Playlist: • AE86 Corlla GTS RestoM...
►240sx S13 Playlist: • Engine rebuild KA24DE ...
►Turbo Sentra SpecV Build: • How to Install 2-step ...
►Subaru Impreza RS Legacy GT Mods • The Ultimate Sleeper E...
Tools I LOVE
►BADASS Screw Drivers: amzn.to/2dQ5Ajx
►Amazing Electric Ratchet! amzn.to/2e1E1qS
►Pivoting Ratchet: amzn.to/2eL1n4V
►Awesome Cutter/Stripper/Crimper amzn.to/2e1ExoA
►POWER PROBE amzn.to/2dMGS8g
►Ratcheting Wrenches amzn.to/2dME8I2
Equipment I use
►Welder: amzn.to/2dQcftY
►Camera: amzn.to/2fbMs5s
►Microphone: amzn.to/2fkdnez
►Tripod: amzn.to/2e1IgCC
The Auto Alliance:
/ 00labjapan00
/ projectgarageonline
/ biggamehitt
/ eletor
► / pmmods
► / poormanmods
► www.poormanmods...
Music by: / nocopyrightsounds
Love the way you did the step by step with this AND got really close with the camera to show us. I could actually do this myself with the right tools.😊 I love learning car stuff
i loved it so much thats all i do is build my car. true happiness
Knock knock. Who's there? Cylinder 3
I can imagine a mechanic saying this to a customer.
Mechanic: Welp, I have reached a conclusion.
Customer: ?
Mechanic: Knock knock...
Customer: ... Who's there?
Mechanic: Cylinder 3, you have rodknock.
Customer: o_o
th-cam.com/video/mTbLP9VeC8A/w-d-xo.html
🤣🤣🤣
🤣🤣🤣🤣
Dude wow this hit so hard just now
Honestly how I've always found a rod knock, is to just pull the spark plug wire off of each cylinder as it's running, and whichever one stops knocking when you pull off the spark plug wire is the bad cylinder, and generally you can tell it's a rod bearing because if it was piston slap or a wrist pin, it tends to continue knocking even with the spark plug wire off.
what when i have 1 cyl engine?
Care to explain to a rookie what a piston slap or wrist pin are?
I thought that's how you would find a piston slap?
@@stonekeys6252 would usually indicate either 1 but if it continues its prob a main bearing knock
I thought some knock only on acceleration? Not just while idle
Easier to do this old school trick. Unplug one coil or spark plug wire (depending on your car). Start it. Does the knock sound quieter? If not, repeat for each cylinder. If it never get's quieter, than it must be something else.
That’s only for rod bearings. Main bearings won’t differ
@@warrenlancaster8045 This test is only for rod bearings as well
Yes it only the rod bearing
Don't you have to remove opposing rod cylinder wire as well on v8's?
Great video my man! Kudos for taking that challenge, enjoyed it much! And it was cool to see the extension used to find rod knock!
Thanks!
Great video man. I've got some diagnosing to do on my ranger and I've been clueless on how to find the knocking rod
good luck with the ranger!
I just bought a crown vic that got rod knock. The seller told me they had ot diagnosed as a cracked exhaust manifold which I know is possible but I've pretty well. It still sounds like it's flex plate knock as it is loudest directly in line with the flex plate when checking with a stethoscope but it's characterized exactly as rod knock. I'll use your steps here to see if I can figure it out. Fortunately it has straight piped exhust and no cats so I can here it's got a strong misfire on rhe drivers side so I have a starting point.
Great video and great tip!! I really like how you put together the clip--editing and close-up!
Make life easy on yourself. Pull the plug wires, one at a time while the engine is running. If you have connecting rod noise, you'll hear the noise go away or get a LOT less when you pull the plug wire on the bad cylinder. This is because the cylinder with the bad connecting rod clearance (which is where the knock originates) is no longer "loaded" except by the intertial mass of that connecting rod/piston. The noise will get much softer, because there is no combustion power stroke to cause the piston to slam down against the loose rod bearing.
This is a faster way 👍
Good troubleshooting. I like the way you found out which cylinder had the rod knock.
Thanks!
You can fix that through the bottom if you remove the oil pan? Replace bearing or tighten the nuts? Or do you have to pull the entire engine apart?
In our case the engine had to be pulled. Needed to replace the crankshaft and 1 connecting rod. Its always good to fully remove the engine and have the rods and crank checked if youre experiencing a knock from the main or rod bearing
Nice advice am from Mauritius Island.If we having an issue like this?
Am using Obd Torque pro am having a misfire on cylinder 4 can it be a rod knock will it recorded it as a misfire?But no engine management light is on I just get it on the application.
just bought a 94 Pajero not sure what there called in north America anyway going to use this trick to see if it has connecting rod knock thanks for the infomation defiantly earned my sub
Are you pushing the extension down the sparkplug holes to feel on the actual piston?
Yes
Is there a way to diagnose a bad piston wrist pin? Engine shop is telling me my Triton V10 has piston skirt slap on #6 cylinder which requires a new engine. Compression is fine and the engine runs great other than the healthy knock.
First commercial I think I've actually enjoyed ever on TH-cam
What was it?
Poor man doing everything him self is my kind of club.
Thank you.
Thanks!
used this method on a 2004 corolla, found cyl 4 had bad slack. Thanks!
Thanks mate. My 95 Camry just started up some knocking on the freeway … Im hoping this is the problem…. 😬
Youre welcome, good luck!
Is it possible that the ECU can cause an engine knocking mostly from a cold start, then taper off while it’s warming up ?
Or if there is a knocking it will be there the whole time while the engine is running?
Is it possible that just a portion of the programming could be off ?
Highly highly doubt you're knocking is caused by the ECU or an electronic problem
@@PoorManMods : You can doubt it, but It’s not a question about diagnostics, it’s a question about the electrics controlling the ignition. Do you have experience to tell me if just part of the programming can be corrupt or at least not programming correctly?
Is it all or nothing, or can part of it not work properly?
@@ginoasci nothing is impossible but it is extremely unlikely that the programming got corrupt. Usually the ECU is either going to work or it's not going to work
You likely have a mechanical problem and when the engine heats up, the tolerances change and then knocking goes away. It's only going to get worse overtime
@@PoorManMods: it’s not going to get worse over time because some of these engines have 8000 miles and the run fine once they are warm.
A very high percentage of these engines develop this knock after the first service.
Very suspicious because the manufacturer doesn’t offer a solid answer about what oil is used at the first fill.
This is a motorcycle engine and a synthetic oil is recommended.
We have been searching for answers regarding the ECU and the first fill oil.
These are the only two causes because they are the only two things that change at a service.
Here the problem.
All these engines develop the knocking immediately following the first service.
My developed the knocking after the second service.
If the oil is changed on all the engines at the first and second service, mine would have debit at the first service, unless the dealer didn’t change my oil.
Very unlikely, so this only leaves the ECU.
Which is why I’m asking around about the possibility of a partial error in programming, not a corrupt ECU.
We’ve eliminated mechanical errors and faulty components because the manufacturer would have corrected it by now, and my bike ran great when I purchased it.
Ran just as great after the first service.
Something happened at that second service.
Possibly an ECU update, and an oil change.
My thoughts are the section of that programming that controls the air fuel mixture or the ignition timing is off just during the warm up stage, then as the engine is warming up the DCU recognizes this and makes the changes accordingly, the timing is corrected and the knocking slows down considerably or even goes away completely.
That’s what I think, but I don’t know enough about the programming.
I appreciate the responses.
One question. I have a 2006 dodge ram 1500 4.7L so the problem I’m having is a ticking noise on my engine. It’s coming from the passenger side and it only starts ticking when the truck is warmed up. I have oil in it and been doing the oil change on that truck. Could it be the lifters?
It is easier to use that method with an inline vertical engine; but how would it work with a V-ENGINE with the cylinders on a slant?
Thanks, after listening to that Kia I'm certain my L61 is toast.
On god me too 😂😂😢😓😓
got a question im in the process of trying your method out and im not sure if im feeling it move or not but i do have a concern over when manually turning my motor over i have all spark plugs removed and its a little 1.8L 4cyl and the motor spins super easy until it gets to a certain point then it takes a considerable more effort to get it to turn then it spins suoer easy once again. i would assume that if the sparkplugs are out and there is no compression at all happening then it should spin easy throughout the crabks revolution and not get harder to turn could this be a sign of some sort of binding withing the crankshaft to pistion system?
When I pushed mine on the Prius 2010, it got pushed all the way down and doing it on all 4. is that wrong? I'm getting a severe knock.
Would the noise from rod knock be constant? I have almost the same noise but it comes and goes i can tickle the throttle and make the noise come and go. The car can sit and idle for long time w/o any noise at all.
I'm not sure. Try the socket extension test
How did you manually turn the engine???? Do you have a video for that?
Got a question so I watched this video and diagnosed my car cyl 3 had the play in it so I immediately thought rod bearing bearing looked fine put a new one in anyways torqued everything down and still knocking also on thing my cylinder will drop about a quarter inch and it stays down
Is it possible you replaced the bearing on the wrong cylinder? Could be a worn wrist pin at the top of the connecting rod, or maybe even a bad craink main bearing?
@@PoorManMods I triple checked that it was the correct piston and all main bearings are new As well it’s a fresh engine My only guess is maybe wrist pin
Mine is the same Volvo V40 1.8 petrol. Lots of cleaning and sanding but can be done if your new bearing's are the write size
How much does it cost for a Chevy Silverado Z71 V8? Kinda scared to hear the price 😂. I recently have a noise coming from my truck and the noise is louder when you get near the oil pan. The noise goes faster when accelerating. I really hope I could get it fixed!!
Brilliant! Few will share this information. Thank you.
thank you!
just found your channel thans for the info im diagnosing my lawn mower... hehe poor mans mods heheh lawn mower...
Great video I'll do that this weekend do you have the video when you fix it
We rebuilt the entire engine, the crank was even bent. No video though
What should I type in the search inorder to learn how to turn engine manually? (2006 Chrysler town and country).
Great Vid👍btw
A lot of times you can get a socket on an alternator and turn the whole belt and crank.. if not, pull the passanger side tire and get a socket on the crank and turn clockwise
@@ianbowline404
TY,can't wait to learn more.🍻👍
I never imagined how cheap it is to rebuild a motor lol I'm currently sitting on a 2006 dodge charger with what sounds like spun rod bearing it doesn't necessarily knock but it runs rough but idles correctly with a occasional dip in rpm but that probably because of how rough it running the start up takes a sec it cranks for 2-3 seconds then fires right up the sound sounds like it is coming from the top tho but really could be anywhere lol I may be replacing rod bearings and sanding down the crank and connecting rod maybe shall see how it goes when I buy the parts and drain the oil and drop the oil pan if I can I don't remember if my car has any bars or anything in the way
Excellent video thanks. I have more understanding of the sounds. But it’s hard to hear what your heard. But I’m not as exsperienced
whats the most i should pay for a kia forte in this condition and how much will it cost to fix?
Do you have video of fixing cylinder 3
By heart feels that start up
I have a 2.4 liter turbo. It makes a knock but when I turn the ac off it stops. Should I take it to a dealer? I like the car but it all ready threw a rod. I had to replace it with a 80k used engine. Any suggestions?
The knock should certainly get properly diagnosed and repaired especially if its an engine knock and not something related to the AC pump.
Now there's a recall. I got my notice today for my 2016 Sonata Hybrid.
They said they have a special tool that does this. Mine gets checked Friday (4-9-21) so I'll ask to see the tool being used because I'm curious.
Ok, mine was checked and it cleared.
They said they used something with compressed air in the cylinder and measurements taken with a gauge from the top?
No idea. I'd rather have a visual inspection.
I got a new engine from this what they do is a oil pressure reading. It the pressure is too low it’s from lack of bearing the extra clearance that lowers the oil pressure and it fails resulting in new engine. If you’re ever get rod knock it is covered. The class action lawsuit is for LIFE unlimited mileage and subsequent owners too. Doesn’t matter if 1st or 25th owner it is for LIFE. look up class action lawsuit Hyundai motors. It’s all 2.0 2.4 and 2.4T 09-19.
@@mentallyderanged9169
My letter said 150,000 miles. I'm already at 121,000 in a 2016 Sonata Hybrid. 150k is a bs deal.
They didn't do an oil pressure reading. Its something that goes in the spark plug hole, uses compressed air and measures any slack.
I don't think they did mine right as plug 1 was not torqued after but 2-4 were (I did a plug change after).
Also I just noticed you said hybrid sk that might be different I just know for a fact it is the 2.0 2.4 and 2.4T. I can not speak on hybrids at all and it might be different for them for they are not running at all time I guess. But for sure none hybrid are unlimited mileage definitely research it and see if it is different for hybrid.
I have an 07 impala knock when driving
But quite when parked i rev the engine and no noise only when I drive
What can it be ?
It could be an exhaust leak. If you’re only hearing it inside
Probably the gearbox bearing
@rj jr guy asked a normal question no reason to be a dick
LOL MY 07 Camry just got this!!! How long until the engine goes kaboom?
not long at all, it will need fixed/rebuild asap
Thanks man worked great on my John Deere!
My car makes a sort of grinding noise (semi similar to this one) but only at 2700 rpm ish. I have an 09 impreza sport. It also does it at around 1400 rpm when it's a super cold start and I start driving right away, but then it goes away when it warms up. However the 2700 rpm grind is always there pretty much, would this be an early sign of this? Thank you!
Is it better to fix the engine with rod knock or get a new engine?
its almost always cheaper to fix the engine In the case of this kia, we replaced the cranks shaft, 1 connecting rod and 1 piston and all the gaskets and bearings that go along with that job for around $1000. A used replacement engine was about $2000
Is it good idea to use impact wrench for removing spark plugs?
No
Yes do it. Most are backwards threaded too
Man, so I think the slapping I’m hearing is my chain tensioner because the sound goes away with higher revés and I have no loss of power.
Does rod knock stop with higher revés?
Could be the chain, rod knock will not go away to my knowledge
Great video. Thank you for taking the time to make it.
youre welcome!
Is it normal for rod knock to go away when cruising only knocks on when it’s in park
I probably missed it in the video, but, is this the 2.0 or the 2.4? 😊😊 If I'm not mistaken the 2.4 but can't fully tell
where is part 2 , please?
I want to know if it can be fixed from the oil pan , cylinder 3 only, since as far as I know mechanics replace all the bearings one they are knocking, and also I want to know how can you tell if the cranckshaft needs machining.
We had to pull and rebuild the engine. The crank was slightly bent from the knocking and the rod was damaged too.
thank you for the great tactic to figure it out , if i have big end bearing damage , i need to remove the crank should i replace the main bearings as well? and the bolts ?
Yes. And yes.
Threads stretch on bolts, especially rapid temperatures. Once tourqed, true final tourqe can never be achieved again. Replace main bearings. You'll wish you did later. Also make sure you clean all the oil bores, vents, any sludge with a gasket scraper and coat hanger (wire) to be sure it's fully clean and there's no blockage.
Is it still running?
@@arthurmoore1524 thanx .. i replaced the engine on my focus mk2 ..it was costly to fix bad bearings, ring pistons and the head bolts got loose beacause of over heating earlier i did facing new gasket then agian head bolts got loose and i saw oil in coolant.. the head threads was damged cuz of heat ..i found a cheap engine and swapped
Thanks for this vid! I was able to diagnose rod knock in my sons car because of it.
Awesome!!!
I'm so glad I found your channel. I subscribed. Keep doing what you're doing!
Thank youuu!
just out of curiosity how much longer could the engine last had you only replaced the one bearing? thanks
In our case it wouldnt have lasted. The crank NEEDED to be replaced as well
Could this noise be almost gone when the engine heats up? Or is it something else? I hear knocking noise only when accelerating on cold engine, and after 15-20 minutes it's 99% gone
Hmmm hard to tell without hearing it. Could be a lifter issue youre having
thanks Freddy! gonna try this on a 50 yr old 1.8L pushrod 4cyl motor w/ a "ticking" knock below the valve train (noise is not valves). gonna be tricky; spark plugs are not directly overhead, they're at 45 degrees. Car is a 1970 MGB with 250,000 miles.
I heard of people driving with this knock for over 60 000 miles and engine is still running strong ! Possible?
Not the knock we had. The cylinder 3 rod bearing was GONE
Was driving to Wisconsin from calif . In Arizona started hearing a slight engine noise, checked oil, was full. Got louder, and louder, was Very loud , and then BANG! ENGINE DIED, rod thru block. Shamrock Texas. Layed up 5 days while a new shortblock installed. This was NOT MY VEHICLE, I was traveling with friends in their dodge van. Guess they didn't take good care of it as it was only 6 years old at the time.
Hey got a video of you fixing it?
I was hoping that very thing
Good video. Cuple questions: What if it's a bad wrist pin? What if you have a V engine? How could you do this test?
Not sure and not sure haha, sorry. Thanks for watching though
Just found your channel, glad I did!
Thank you! Please subscribe a
Do you start the car up with the extension bar in the cylinder?
No!
Idiot!
It would be quicker than turning the engine over by hand
Wow you really let that extension slam rite down on those piston tops lol. Im sure it isnt a HUGE deal though. Great tip however
You are a genius
Thanks 🤓
Please excuse my ignorance, is he turning the tire/wheel?
No, the bolt on the crankshaft
Is this covered in the new warranty extension? I hear knocking when I accelerate up hill and it's getting worse. Sonata only has 67,000 km
Ask your dealership
Hi buddy when i pull up 2 the lights i hear 2 knocks & only 2 that come from the left of the lower part of the engine. What could it b im thinking bearing mayb?
Probably a rod knock unfortunately
good tutorial and a nice trick. thank you. i subscribed
@@abderrahmanegouasmi7556 thank you!!
Nice. Only works with spark plug holes that are centrally located in the cylinder head I expect (eg not my airhead bmw), but good technique anyway.
I hope you do another video showing how you fixed it.
I didn't film it but the entire engine got rebuilt, the crank even needed replaced because the knock slightly bent the crank according to the machine shop
Great channel.
Thanks!
Is there a 2nd video? Id like to know if you were able to fix the cylinder
No video, pulled and completely rebuilt the engine.
How do you turn the engine by hand? What do you attach the socket to?
The crank bolt
Will this test work on a 1999 Chev. S10?
It will only work on engined with the spark plug hole at the very top/center of the cylinder. It wont work of the sparl plugs are on the side near the exhaust manifold
Can this method be used for any engine btw thats a cool ratchet
I believe it can, and thanks!
Thanks and keep up the good work 👍👍👍
2018 wow what a freaking driver destoying that baby. Now someones left with a messup cylinder.
Nice video, thanks
Was that engine considered to have bad engine knock and any ideas how much long will the engine last with no repairs? Great informative video 👍
Is it still running?
Is it still running?
Is it still running?
In this time I've taken a built 355 to 8500rpm quite a few times back by a built th350 in manual shift pulls
Hopefully your crank is still hate fuckin that bearing and she's taking it all
so if the rob damaged the engine is still okay?
If the rod is damaged its possible the crankshaft is also damaged
i may have missed it but to what level are you bringing the extension to when you have it in the cylinder?
intake stroke tdc
top tip, do 1 and 4 together, then 2 and 3!
Kia has a new ecu map...I suggest fixing it and upgrading ecu program ...it advances timing to soon and damages bearings from what I've read.
They should have done a recall on it. I hate how kia made the engines like that.
They did a class action lawsuit bee motor all 2.0 2.4 2.4T motors. Look it up I got a bee motor for free it was a manufacture issue. The oil passages where not properly drilled and cleaned leaving debris in the block and lack of flow to the rod bearings.
That’s false it is a oil starvation issue. They did a class action lawsuit on motors all the 2.0 2.4 2.4T motors. Look it up I got a bee motor for free it was a manufacture issue. The oil passages where not properly drilled and cleaned leaving debris in the block and lack of flow to the rod bearings. I got free towing a bran new short black and also a free rental.
What if whenever you push down on the extension it clicks downward about 1/16" but doesn't bounce back up?
Sounds like a bad rod bearing
I have a 2016 Kia soul for sale with this problem. It's in mint condition besides the engine issue.
Thank you very much this will be useful for tomorrow to check my engine that i just installed and rebuild smh 😂😂
Thanks for watching!
How are you rotating the engine. Where are you putting the socket?
Locate your crankshaft pully and place the correct socket and breaker bar on it and turn it clockwise only
My damn 2019 Elantra started consuming lots of oil since my recent oil change(3 months ago ),ran low and now stuck with a rod knock.My fifty year old Dodge uses less oil.
Haha.... Wonder if CJ's know any of this stuff ? Great job bro
Thank you!
Top Notch Useful Tip! (But do wish you were able to go ahead and open up that oil pan in the Video) Thanks, man.
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it!
Can rod knock be erratic though? All the videos I've found of it have it being a very rhythmic thing... I have an engine that's occasionally getting a clunking sound. Only occasionally happens at speed, mostly happens on initial acceleration from a complete stop, sometimes happens while the engine is warming up... I just bought a whole crank shaft that's in excellent condition (it's an antique motorcycle so... finding new parts isn't always possible, though oddly I can get new cam shafts like they were tictacs...)...
Anyway, I'm beginning to wonder if I'm not having a spark plug issue and I'm spending money buying rare, unworn parts for nothing...
Shit, I need to buy a set of spark plugs ASAP to make sure before I go any further...
Any update?
My 99 Toyota 5SFE has a rod bearing knock on two cylinders (2 and 3, I’ll switch out all four due to the dry oil change.
Where did you turn the engine manually? From the tires?
You turn the engine by the crank. The big bolt that holds the harmonic balancer on is the bolt you use to turn the motor over.
How did u turn the engine?
Suppose can easily diagnose using scanning tool measure the knock sensor within each piston.
that will only tell you which cylinder has a problem, it wont tell you what the problem is.
@@PoorManMods lots of tricks!once u got wet, eventually u still need to shower 😂
This works when you can drop the rod straight into top ... what about when the plugs are in the side ?
If its fuel injected, and you can hear the knock at idle. Unplug the injectors one at a time and replug them as you go. The bad cylinder will quite down(not go away). Bit should be noticeable noise difference(from a knock to a clack) as the piston will only be pulled around by the rest of the rotating assembly rather than pushed down by combustion.
*quiet
like this guy! Goes Detail by detail very helpful
Thank you!
That's funny I was just considering buying a forte that is knocking for $800 on my local Craigslist. Do you plan on just getting a junkyard engine or are you actually going to fix this engine?
We have the engine out and are planning to polish the crank and install new bearings
@@PoorManMods i also did this on my delsol but when we installed everything back there was no crank or anything just dash lights would flicker when turning key
Dude ur bad ass this video helped a lot
Thank youu
Now just need the video for repairing the knock 😂