So pumped you dropped this. Just noticed a rod bearing issue when I did my oil pan gasket. Your videos have walked me though every thing I've done to my car. Inlets outlets upgraded twins etc I've done almost everything you've done. You're a savior man keep it up
This is one of your best videos to date: your concise explanations coupled with a quality camera deliver a fantastic guide/presentation. The N54 isn't exactly a cheap platform (which is a good thing) so it's not always feasible to dump money into it. There's no shame in asking for donations; a large majority of channels do it (re: Patreon) so no one can judge you for asking. You're very down to earth; a trait that clearly shines through ALL your videos. All your supporters & viewers know you're doing this because you enjoy it and want to share your knowledge with the rest of the world. Please keep going for as long as you can, we've got your back!
Dude good stuff. Don't be bashful about taking donations, you kill the DIY game for the N54. You deserve more than most. I'm a Helicopter Technician, and I'd be scared to tackle this one on my garage floor! And I rebuild jet engines all the time ! Lol. Thanks for your service dude !
I just did this job, went from 400 grit sandpaper to 2500 & was very close to mirror finish, car has been going for 40k miles already without any issues
How hard was it? I’m thinking about doing mine on my n52 while doing the oil pan and vc gaskets, rod bearing fails seem like the trend in my friend group
Vehicular DIY, I think you should re-asses your ideas of not taking funding from folks. Money is just money, and if someone really appreciates your effort and deems your time of value to them, they should be able to donate to you. It's their way of giving back and you true deserve the cash. Your videos are amazing to this community. Thank you.
I own both a 335i N54 and a F10 M5 and I wish there was even 1/3 of the content you put out for the N54 for the S63 platform. I have never donated to your channel but I have relied on it so much I feel like I owe you.. and I would have no issues donating to see some more of this content.. (and maybe one day hopefully similar content on the S63tu ??? )
Not sure if you had seen but a few months back I picked up a 2015 XDrive50i with the N63TU engine. It's my wife's daily driver. It's got 62k miles and I'm sure it'll require a bunch of DIYs. Mechanically it shares some similarities to the S63TU.
I’m running a st n54 setup. I ended up spinning a bearing. I heard it and shut it off. I changed my rod bearings with race acl with arp rod bolts. This was 4 months ago and it is still strong. Good thing the crank was still good. Saved a lot of money and motor 😂
I liked the video before I've watched it, I'vebeen looking forward to this video for a couple of days now.. I just like the continue you put out keep it up bro!
Your stock bearings looked excellent, especially considering the mileage and power the car is making. Just goes to show you how important proper maintenance is and the difference it makes over the life of the engine. I've heard nothing but good things about King bearings, but then again your stock bearings even with the tighter factory clearance.... I'm excited to see the car up and running again.
are you high? some of his stock bearings were smeared from oil starvation and the other were heavily worn and some scored from debris. They looked horrible.
@@brendenbanks9293 Are YOU high? "Considering the mileage and power the car is making" Lighten up keyboard warrior and unclench your ass cheeks, just stating my opinion
If the cam tray idea works out with the amount of boost you are running you should also install ARP head-studs. Nothing like investing the time,money and effort that you have to only go a few more miles to lose a head-gasket
Looks amazing. Thank you for all your hard work. Is it possible to briefly address the pros and cons of pulling the engine out and doing the work on a stand?
i think the biggest con would be time it take to remove and install engine, pulling these engines aren't hard if you have the right tools, it's just time consuming. Pros would be space and you can change other components much easier while its out and you're not on your back.
Little trick for doing this, once the cap is removed. Screw in one of the bolts into the rod. This gives you something to manipulate the upper with. In the middle of a rebuild plus some 19t's so I'll see you next payday. 👍
I thought the color bearing code is embossed on the crankshaft? Plastigauge obviates that anyway. Commendably thorough. Accepting contributions for possibly doing unnecessary cam tray overhaul is totally appropriate. When did Teflon seals start being used?
Bro you know Alots stuff ! Very cool videos thanks for sharing the Knowledge. I have an 09 535i I accidentally pulled Center shaft out To change the front seal and Timing gear fell. Where can I find some good information to put back in timing Thanks!
Have you considered changing your crankshaft pulley to one for a manual transmission. Don’t think your failure was due to that but make me wonder if it will cause vibrations.
Hey, I didn't really look into it. I just read that the auto one was a little heavier so I figured it wouldn't be an issue. Given the autos don't have the mass of the flywheel they used the crank pulley to counter the forces.
I have a question, why do some N55's engine all of a sudden have spun rod bearings, I hear stories about engines failing randomly even when the oil changes are done on time? Should you change rod bearings on a N55 that has lets say 126k miles on it but runs fine , no issues? I have. 2012 BMW X6 , beautiful truck I have it on 22's , love the styling and look, but worried I might be driving one day and the engine goes caput. It drives fine and idles smooth , no noise or knocks, I use Liquid Moly 5-40 and Installed a metal oil filter housing. Truck runs great , just would like to know if changing the rod bearings is something I should look into as a maintenance and if so what type or brand should I get to give a little more clearance to avoid future problems? Looking to keep for another few years and by the way what causes these random failures if you know?
Whats the background music first quarter of the video? Btw thanks for all your contributions to the bmw community. Inspired me to keep building my n54 for several years as well.
Could you, please, help me understand how much i have to torque my rod bolts on s63 engine..on ista i have two options 1az and 2 az. the 1az have 3 steps torque plus angle to 70 degrees and the 2az it's with 3 times loosening the bolt. Thank you very much for your help!
As usual your content is pure gold for DIY guys ( like me ). MY helix has been making a really weird sound like the chain is shaking badly ( Specially when the AC is on...) I'll be doing a oil change soon and i am going to try to stick a camera thru the oil pan plug. Hopefully i wont see the plastic guides sitting at the bottom of the pan.......... after that it will be time to take out the motor and build it up. So far i have been pushing 32 PSI ( probably pushing close to 800 WHP since i made 710 WHP at 28 PSI with a 6870 docrace ) over 30 passes and the car is holding well.
@@VehicularDIY 3x kit. but the more i think about the really high pitch sharping noise, the more i think i am going to pieces at the bottom of the pan ( sound like the one you get when you first start the car but like at least 3 times faster ). I am using the JB4 and the timing is like 3 or 4, i rather have low timing with high boost than aggressive 9 or 10 with lower boost.
Hey what happens if it’s out of what it’s supposed to be? Like if it’s too much or not tight enough? What would be the next move. Just asking because I’m going to do this soon
Question for ya, have you considered switching to an Ester base oil, particularly a 10w-60 weight considering you mentioned the aftermarket rod bearings beings slightly "looser", and not to forget you've still got original main bearings in a 200k mile "HP" motor. Not that there's anything wrong with Polyalphaolefin oils (group 4 oils), but a Polyolester oil (group 5 oil) might be very advisable, in my opinion.
Any ideas on what causes the bearing failure? I am having an oil analysis done, as I am suspecting oil contamination may be the cause and I want to fix whatever caused the failure before I replace my bearings. And if I’m hearing the rod knock, which just started so I parked the car, what are the chances I haven’t damaged the journals?
Hi! I have change my rod bearings at my car (E92 335i N54 2007) this week and my car has 220000km so I was not shure what to expect but my old rodbearings looks still ok and the crankshaft journals look like new but I decide to put in some new oem bearings anyway. I mesaure the old bearing clearance with plastigage and it was .045mm and the new bearing clearance .051mm so it seems that BMW has increased clearance at this bearings today. My crankshaft was marked with rrrrrr so I put in six new red ones in the connecting rod cap and the yellow one in the connecting rod. I thought this might be good to know for you just to have as a reference.
I've noticed in previous vids that you have used BMS cowl filters. Living in TX do you find that a lot of water gets down into the bay, especially onto the downpipes and DME area? I also live in TX and recently bought an e90 335i, removed the cowl lastnight and then it started raining. I noticed a pool of water on top of the engine cover in the morning.
@@VehicularDIY Do you have aftermarket covers for the ecu and brake booster that fit without the stock cabin air filter cowl? If so, do you know where I can get some? I'll occasionally see them in pics/vids online but can never find where to buy them.
Great video ! Can you list the parts needed for only a rod bearing issue /rod knock? The list that’s linked is $800+ but that’s for all the things you tackled. Thanks in advance!
Why havent you decided to go with upgraded crank hub solution like VTT makes one with splines? Since you making all this power, and its a weak area for n54/n55/s55.
Mostly cost, the issue isn't as prevalent on the N54 so I am upgrading to BMW's latest solution for the S55 which I expect to be an improvement over what my N54 came with.
Great video. What is the recommend rod bearing clearance? TIS doesn't seem to list this info. It just instructs you to install the proper color bearings based on the letter designation for each journal. During your research did you find any information about mixing and matching the stock bearings (yellow with blue or violet with red) to tune the clearance to be a little on the loose side? You mentioned cylinder 4 seems to be the worst for rod bearing wear. Is this some sort of oiling issue common to all N54s?
Thanks, 0.20mm to 0.046 mm. I didn't as I knew that going with King aftermarket bearings would net a larger clearance than factory. I ended up around at 0.038 to 0.040 so still within factory specs but on the looser side which is good as I run thicker 5W40 oil. Some cars end up out of spec at round 0.050 but still acceptable. So my crank journals were on the larger side. I don't think it's an oiling issue but it's the cylinder that is most likely to experience noise and excess heat from the looks of it so it just lives a harder life and puts more strain on the bearing.
@@Fix_It_Again_Tony I've been using Liqui Moly w/Molygen 5W40. The WPC bearings are stock bearings in the stock color size, they are bead blasted so they may have a slight increase in clearance. While the usage of my car is much harsher on the track, the power is tuned conservatively to 470whp. My experience with new babbitt bearings is that bearings run much cooler with a little more clearance and are less likely to fail. Worn bearings with more clearance lose their profile and fail. New bearings that are too tight will overheat and fail.
Need to replace rod bearings on my 2012 N55 X5.. Starting to see gold metal flakes in oil and oil filter.. Need any help you can give on this job.. Thanks..
No as that involve removing the engine, this car uses a bed plate to hold in the crankshaft. One of the reasons it's so strong but at the same time you can't change the mains with the engine in the car.
If they are too tight you'd have to stop and get another set of bearings. If they are too loose then maybe the crankshaft has been machined in the past and you need to look into over sized bearings. Pretty unlikely scenarios.
do the king bearings that you used fit N55 engines? On ecs tuning it says they dont fit, however i thought that n54 bearings work on n55 engines. Just wanted to know if u knew the answer
Whey were the 4 ASA bolts for? Also, did you use oil in the new Rod bolts or assembly lube? I know you used oil on the old bolts to check the plasti-gauge.
I used oil both on the old and new bolts. They say avoid assembly lubes to coat the bolts for torqueing. Some assembly lubes contain molybdenum which would really throw off the torque. A high quality motor oil is fine. The 4 asa bolts?
Hi, I have a 335i (06 ’), 220.000km in it and we replaced the rod bearings last week. I thought the timing chain would be replaced around 250.000km. Afterwards, a few said it was a big mistake to leave the old crankshaft bearings and timing chain inside. Should I hurry with their changes or it will be good around 240-250.000? Thanks a lot, the channel is very good! Greetings from Hungary!
Donation sent- you have the best content for theses vehicles on the net. Keep up the great work! Would love to see the ledges updated with the teflon seals. I've had to do this for a Volvo in my fleet a PITA but workable .. you should also get donations for a portable or two post lift. Your'e a beast! LOL
You schould always do zthe check with plasti gauge if you happen to have a cranck that is already on the small side and get std bearings it can happen that the gap gets too big for normal bearings you could get some trouble that the oil would be able to escape to the sump to quickly then the next bearing failiure will be looming on the horizon with the test you could find that and go for thicker bearings to prolong the lifetime of the new bearings
odie0815 thanks for the explanation! But if I change just for maintenance purposes without any problems the crank can still be on the small side with standard bearings?
@@bigdeal87 yes due to manufacturing tolerances the crank can be totally fine and be an the small side the different thickness versions of the OEM Bearings are made to match that variation in manufacturing if you go with OEM Bearings and use the colour code that is on the block you will be kinda fine although it is still recommended by nearly all who do engine work to do it anyway Edit: to be fair - we are about te be talking about 30$ for the gauge and 1h extra labour (including 2 coffee breaks) for the measuring on all 6 bearings I'd do it just to exactly know where my new clearance would be at
I love your work your a freak . Bmw are a mission to work on and no prob phases you you just get it done as you would and oil chAnge . 👍 love your channel
I'll change the oil a couple times at least as a flush within the first hour of running. Then fill it with my regular preferred oil. Then I'll probably drive on it 3K miles.
Hey man I wanna ask you what it is that you do as your regular job are you technician or something how do you know so much man. Also your videos have help me not feel so scared to work on my own car. I have an n51 btw which I believe is technically still an n52
Hey I work in IT hardware during the day. I was exposed to a relatives shop from 14 to 16 and kind of just took it from there as my side hobby. I'm glad my videos have inspired you to tackle your own jobs!
You are the reason I still have my n54, what a service you provide to all of us!
Donation sent. Much appreciated for all the videos you've made in the past.
Thank you very much!
So pumped you dropped this. Just noticed a rod bearing issue when I did my oil pan gasket. Your videos have walked me though every thing I've done to my car. Inlets outlets upgraded twins etc I've done almost everything you've done. You're a savior man keep it up
This is one of your best videos to date: your concise explanations coupled with a quality camera deliver a fantastic guide/presentation. The N54 isn't exactly a cheap platform (which is a good thing) so it's not always feasible to dump money into it. There's no shame in asking for donations; a large majority of channels do it (re: Patreon) so no one can judge you for asking. You're very down to earth; a trait that clearly shines through ALL your videos. All your supporters & viewers know you're doing this because you enjoy it and want to share your knowledge with the rest of the world. Please keep going for as long as you can, we've got your back!
Thank you!
you should accept donations and use them to reach/teach the limit of this n54.
Dude good stuff. Don't be bashful about taking donations, you kill the DIY game for the N54. You deserve more than most. I'm a Helicopter Technician, and I'd be scared to tackle this one on my garage floor! And I rebuild jet engines all the time ! Lol. Thanks for your service dude !
Love the content. I don’t think asking for donations is a bad look. I say if you have the money to support channels you like to watch then go for it.
I just did this job, went from 400 grit sandpaper to 2500 & was very close to mirror finish, car has been going for 40k miles already without any issues
Video quality, the information, the humble narrative, the details. It is just very good content!!
Video quality is amazing!
This is about to be my life for the next couple weeks glad I’m here
How hard was it? I’m thinking about doing mine on my n52 while doing the oil pan and vc gaskets, rod bearing fails seem like the trend in my friend group
Vehicular DIY, I think you should re-asses your ideas of not taking funding from folks. Money is just money, and if someone really appreciates your effort and deems your time of value to them, they should be able to donate to you. It's their way of giving back and you true deserve the cash.
Your videos are amazing to this community. Thank you.
I'm not technical with cars,but enjoy seeing great talent at work. Thanks......
Detailed close up awesome content as always man. Love that it’s straight to it. No interview style camera like other TH-camrs
Best TH-camt ever, very good explaner
I own both a 335i N54 and a F10 M5 and I wish there was even 1/3 of the content you put out for the N54 for the S63 platform. I have never donated to your channel but I have relied on it so much I feel like I owe you.. and I would have no issues donating to see some more of this content.. (and maybe one day hopefully similar content on the S63tu ??? )
Not sure if you had seen but a few months back I picked up a 2015 XDrive50i with the N63TU engine. It's my wife's daily driver. It's got 62k miles and I'm sure it'll require a bunch of DIYs. Mechanically it shares some similarities to the S63TU.
I have an n52, and I enjoy your video's too. Love what you ride in, or get rid of it.
I’m running a st n54 setup. I ended up spinning a bearing. I heard it and shut it off. I changed my rod bearings with race acl with arp rod bolts. This was 4 months ago and it is still strong. Good thing the crank was still good. Saved a lot of money and motor 😂
I liked the video before I've watched it, I'vebeen looking forward to this video for a couple of days now.. I just like the continue you put out keep it up bro!
First-rate stuff. Always a master class in automotive maintenance. I'm a subscriber for life.
Damn the video quality is great! Makes me want the Sony A7iii even more. There are a few scenes that are a little dark, but overall 👌👌
Your stock bearings looked excellent, especially considering the mileage and power the car is making. Just goes to show you how important proper maintenance is and the difference it makes over the life of the engine. I've heard nothing but good things about King bearings, but then again your stock bearings even with the tighter factory clearance.... I'm excited to see the car up and running again.
are you high? some of his stock bearings were smeared from oil starvation and the other were heavily worn and some scored from debris. They looked horrible.
@@brendenbanks9293 Are YOU high? "Considering the mileage and power the car is making" Lighten up keyboard warrior and unclench your ass cheeks, just stating my opinion
I would love to see more of those type of jobs
Wish you the best of luck man. That job looks insane and I hope you get the 335i up and running soon.
Always informative as a n54 owner your channel has help me in great constrast and insight I truly appreciate your time and devotion...(n54) game....
If the cam tray idea works out with the amount of boost you are running you should also install ARP head-studs. Nothing like investing the time,money and effort that you have to only go a few more miles to lose a head-gasket
Looks amazing. Thank you for all your hard work.
Is it possible to briefly address the pros and cons of pulling the engine out and doing the work on a stand?
Sure I can include a brief statement in the next video when I'm doing the chains etc.
i think the biggest con would be time it take to remove and install engine, pulling these engines aren't hard if you have the right tools, it's just time consuming. Pros would be space and you can change other components much easier while its out and you're not on your back.
Very clean video work, appreciate the 4K uploads.
Nice camera. Those rod bearings really didn't look bad for the age.
Also nice choice going with king bearings.
Little trick for doing this, once the cap is removed. Screw in one of the bolts into the rod. This gives you something to manipulate the upper with. In the middle of a rebuild plus some 19t's so I'll see you next payday. 👍
Still no bmw. Still watching all your videos
I thought the color bearing code is embossed on the crankshaft? Plastigauge obviates that anyway. Commendably thorough.
Accepting contributions for possibly doing unnecessary cam tray overhaul is totally appropriate. When did Teflon seals start being used?
You're right, the block has the info for the main bearings.
Where should i find that color on the block?
Bro you know Alots stuff ! Very cool videos thanks for sharing the Knowledge.
I have an 09 535i I accidentally pulled
Center shaft out To change the front seal and Timing gear fell. Where can I find some good information to put back in timing Thanks!
I had to change my rob bearings about 3 months ago as well and i went with king bearings. Really happy to see u using the same ones
Nice, yeah I heard good things about them.
Have you considered changing your crankshaft pulley to one for a manual transmission. Don’t think your failure was due to that but make me wonder if it will cause vibrations.
Hey, I didn't really look into it. I just read that the auto one was a little heavier so I figured it wouldn't be an issue. Given the autos don't have the mass of the flywheel they used the crank pulley to counter the forces.
I have a question, why do some N55's engine all of a sudden have spun rod bearings, I hear stories about engines failing randomly even when the oil changes are done on time?
Should you change rod bearings on a N55 that has lets say 126k miles on it but runs fine , no issues?
I have. 2012 BMW X6 , beautiful truck I have it on 22's , love the styling and look, but worried I might be driving one day and the engine goes caput.
It drives fine and idles smooth , no noise or knocks, I use Liquid Moly 5-40 and Installed a metal oil filter housing.
Truck runs great , just would like to know if changing the rod bearings is something I should look into as a maintenance and if so what type or brand should I get to give a little more clearance to avoid future problems?
Looking to keep for another few years and by the way what causes these random failures if you know?
If you use some MoS2 in engine oil, next time you will see nice green layer of MoS2 on crank bearing faces.
Another amazing video!!! Great detail and content as always!! Can't wait to see you get her back on the Road!
What about an N63 Engine with a Rob problem? Thanks for this amazing video good brother
What about balance of the rotating assembly? Are the new bearing weights identical to the old so you can assume the assembly will still be in balance?
Great video! I’m going to be tackling the rod bearings on my n55 535i soon!
How’d it go?
Whats the background music first quarter of the video? Btw thanks for all your contributions to the bmw community. Inspired me to keep building my n54 for several years as well.
Could you, please, help me understand how much i have to torque my rod bolts on s63 engine..on ista i have two options 1az and 2 az. the 1az have 3 steps torque plus angle to 70 degrees and the 2az it's with 3 times loosening the bolt. Thank you very much for your help!
Why would you replace the crank hub and sprocket?
this is good many S54 folks suprisingly don't check with plastigauge or some other method for clearance
Can you clarify what you meant at 17:37? You said "50 on the first round, and 62 on the second"
Since the bearing installation how's the car being so far?
As usual your content is pure gold for DIY guys ( like me ). MY helix has been making a really weird sound like the chain is shaking badly ( Specially when the AC is on...) I'll be doing a oil change soon and i am going to try to stick a camera thru the oil pan plug. Hopefully i wont see the plastic guides sitting at the bottom of the pan.......... after that it will be time to take out the motor and build it up. So far i have been pushing 32 PSI ( probably pushing close to 800 WHP since i made 710 WHP at 28 PSI with a 6870 docrace ) over 30 passes and the car is holding well.
Damn 32 psi, nice. You running the 4x kit?
@@VehicularDIY 3x kit. but the more i think about the really high pitch sharping noise, the more i think i am going to pieces at the bottom of the pan ( sound like the one you get when you first start the car but like at least 3 times faster ). I am using the JB4 and the timing is like 3 or 4, i rather have low timing with high boost than aggressive 9 or 10 with lower boost.
Also, i forgot to mention that i am using port injection as well with e85 ( usually i get between e76 and e81 at the pump )
Can you do this on a car with rod knock. I might have caught it early. Just did my ofhg n55. Primed the oil and still developed a slight knock
Sent a donation your way - keep up the great work!
Much appreciated!
Hey what happens if it’s out of what it’s supposed to be? Like if it’s too much or not tight enough? What would be the next move. Just asking because I’m going to do this soon
Great video, can I change rod bearings in my 2008 650i without having to remove the engine out ?
Thank you for taking the time !
Very nice dude! Your videos are inspiring to say the least!
Question for ya, have you considered switching to an Ester base oil, particularly a 10w-60 weight considering you mentioned the aftermarket rod bearings beings slightly "looser", and not to forget you've still got original main bearings in a 200k mile "HP" motor.
Not that there's anything wrong with Polyalphaolefin oils (group 4 oils), but a Polyolester oil (group 5 oil) might be very advisable, in my opinion.
From what I've read running anything thicker than 5w40 might be a little touch on the stock oiling system.
Huge knowledge bro from Belgium. Thanks a lot
my clearence on all rods was 0.51 with standard king rod bearings. is this okay?
Great video dude, first time on your channel. Subscribed :)
Great vid as usual!!
Great service for us n54/n55 guys!!
I have a 2011 535i Xdrive. Will I be able to do this job at home do you think? It’ll be my first time doing this job.
Hi do the rod bearings and mains need to go in a certain position or are they all the same size
Any ideas on what causes the bearing failure? I am having an oil analysis done, as I am suspecting oil contamination may be the cause and I want to fix whatever caused the failure before I replace my bearings. And if I’m hearing the rod knock, which just started so I parked the car, what are the chances I haven’t damaged the journals?
If an N55 knocks is that likely a spun bearing?
Hi!
I have change my rod bearings at my car (E92 335i N54 2007) this week and my car has 220000km so I was not shure what to expect but my
old rodbearings looks still ok and the crankshaft journals look like new but I decide to put in some new oem bearings anyway.
I mesaure the old bearing clearance with plastigage and it was .045mm and the new bearing clearance .051mm so it seems that BMW has increased clearance at this bearings today.
My crankshaft was marked with rrrrrr so I put in six new red ones in the connecting rod cap and the yellow one in the connecting rod.
I thought this might be good to know for you just to have as a reference.
I've noticed in previous vids that you have used BMS cowl filters. Living in TX do you find that a lot of water gets down into the bay, especially onto the downpipes and DME area? I also live in TX and recently bought an e90 335i, removed the cowl lastnight and then it started raining. I noticed a pool of water on top of the engine cover in the morning.
I haven't encountered any issues. Maybe check the seals that go between the hood and the car at the back.
@@VehicularDIY Do you have aftermarket covers for the ecu and brake booster that fit without the stock cabin air filter cowl? If so, do you know where I can get some? I'll occasionally see them in pics/vids online but can never find where to buy them.
Have u ever considered making merch for the channel? I'd definitely cop some merch if u had some coo designs!
Yeah I'm looking into it and good to know thanks!
Did you do this from the bottom>? After removing subframe and oil pan? Great video
That's right.
Is the plastigauge come with the bearing kit?
Great video ! Can you list the parts needed for only a rod bearing issue /rod knock? The list that’s linked is $800+ but that’s for all the things you tackled. Thanks in advance!
Why havent you decided to go with upgraded crank hub solution like VTT makes one with splines? Since you making all this power, and its a weak area for n54/n55/s55.
Mostly cost, the issue isn't as prevalent on the N54 so I am upgrading to BMW's latest solution for the S55 which I expect to be an improvement over what my N54 came with.
I need that Torque ratchet where did you get that one I have a snap on and don’t like it.
Amaxing next level video quality
Great video. What is the recommend rod bearing clearance? TIS doesn't seem to list this info. It just instructs you to install the proper color bearings based on the letter designation for each journal.
During your research did you find any information about mixing and matching the stock bearings (yellow with blue or violet with red) to tune the clearance to be a little on the loose side? You mentioned cylinder 4 seems to be the worst for rod bearing wear. Is this some sort of oiling issue common to all N54s?
Thanks, 0.20mm to 0.046 mm. I didn't as I knew that going with King aftermarket bearings would net a larger clearance than factory. I ended up around at 0.038 to 0.040 so still within factory specs but on the looser side which is good as I run thicker 5W40 oil. Some cars end up out of spec at round 0.050 but still acceptable. So my crank journals were on the larger side. I don't think it's an oiling issue but it's the cylinder that is most likely to experience noise and excess heat from the looks of it so it just lives a harder life and puts more strain on the bearing.
I'm using WPC treated stock color coded bearings with about .050 clearance. No problems so far with hard track use.
@@DailyDriverTracking What oil? Are main and rod bearings the same clearance?
@@Fix_It_Again_Tony I've been using Liqui Moly w/Molygen 5W40. The WPC bearings are stock bearings in the stock color size, they are bead blasted so they may have a slight increase in clearance. While the usage of my car is much harsher on the track, the power is tuned conservatively to 470whp. My experience with new babbitt bearings is that bearings run much cooler with a little more clearance and are less likely to fail. Worn bearings with more clearance lose their profile and fail. New bearings that are too tight will overheat and fail.
I did this and now I can't get the oil pump back on. Is there a special tool needed or a procedure in putting the oil pump back on?
scary that bolt snap feeling!
Whats the oil clearance for the rod bearings on this motor? I am in the middle of doing this on a n55
Famous rod bearings! Haha awesome video
Need to replace rod bearings on my 2012 N55 X5.. Starting to see gold metal flakes in oil and oil filter.. Need any help you can give on this job.. Thanks..
I'd look into ACL bearings from what I've been told they are a safe bet.
How much did the kit cost? I am contemplating purchasing a 2008 135i with rod bearing failure.
Are u going to change main bearing to?
No as that involve removing the engine, this car uses a bed plate to hold in the crankshaft. One of the reasons it's so strong but at the same time you can't change the mains with the engine in the car.
Did you replace all of the bolts? Or reuse them?
Wish I had a car lift to work on my car underneath. Don't like working on car on jack stand. Especially for something like this.
How often should you do this ?
Support sent. Keep it up! Love your videos!
Much appreciated!
What do u do if the bearings are too tight or loose?
If they are too tight you'd have to stop and get another set of bearings. If they are too loose then maybe the crankshaft has been machined in the past and you need to look into over sized bearings. Pretty unlikely scenarios.
do the king bearings that you used fit N55 engines? On ecs tuning it says they dont fit, however i thought that n54 bearings work on n55 engines. Just wanted to know if u knew the answer
Yes they fit the N55B30 as well.
Whey were the 4 ASA bolts for? Also, did you use oil in the new Rod bolts or assembly lube? I know you used oil on the old bolts to check the plasti-gauge.
I used oil both on the old and new bolts. They say avoid assembly lubes to coat the bolts for torqueing. Some assembly lubes contain molybdenum which would really throw off the torque. A high quality motor oil is fine. The 4 asa bolts?
Vehicular DIY ASA Bolts part numbers 07129905738, 11417549370 - what do those go to?
what’s the clearence for the bearings?
Hi, I have a 335i (06 ’), 220.000km in it and we replaced the rod bearings last week. I thought the timing chain would be replaced around 250.000km. Afterwards, a few said it was a big mistake to leave the old crankshaft bearings and timing chain inside. Should I hurry with their changes or it will be good around 240-250.000?
Thanks a lot, the channel is very good!
Greetings from Hungary!
Dude you can get a newer E90 for a few thousand. Replace that car
Which plasti gauge did you buy for this DIY? I know Clevite. Was it .001 to .003?
Donation sent- you have the best content for theses vehicles on the net. Keep up the great work! Would love to see the ledges updated with the teflon seals. I've had to do this for a Volvo in my fleet a PITA but workable .. you should also get donations for a portable or two post lift. Your'e a beast! LOL
Thank you very much!!
What was the reason you had to change them? Maintenance purpose or rod knock
I had my oil pump chain tensioner so I went in there to change them as a precaution. No rod knock.
So if i just exchange the bearings with new std ones do i need to do that plasti process? Thanks
Yes you should always double check the clearance.
You schould always do zthe check with plasti gauge
if you happen to have a cranck that is already on the small side and get std bearings it can happen that the gap gets too big for normal bearings
you could get some trouble that the oil would be able to escape to the sump to quickly
then the next bearing failiure will be looming on the horizon
with the test you could find that and go for thicker bearings to prolong the lifetime of the new bearings
odie0815 thanks for the explanation! But if I change just for maintenance purposes without any problems the crank can still be on the small side with standard bearings?
@@bigdeal87 yes due to manufacturing tolerances the crank can be totally fine and be an the small side
the different thickness versions of the OEM Bearings are made to match that variation in manufacturing
if you go with OEM Bearings and use the colour code that is on the block you will be kinda fine
although it is still recommended by nearly all who do engine work to do it anyway
Edit: to be fair - we are about te be talking about 30$ for the gauge and 1h extra labour (including 2 coffee breaks) for the measuring on all 6 bearings
I'd do it just to exactly know where my new clearance would be at
Did these fail shortly after?
Just curious, what’s your bearing colors marked on the crankshaft?
I'll take a look and mention it in the next video.
I love your work your a freak . Bmw are a mission to work on and no prob phases you you just get it done as you would and oil chAnge . 👍 love your channel
Use at least straight 30 weight oil and change it at 5k to prevent problems duh!
Recommend repairing head gasket or replacing whole motor a lot mechanic don’t want to touch repairs
Great diy’s. I follow your vids every single time! Quick question, do you have torque specs from subframe to body? I cant seem to find them...
Thanks! I'll reference those when reinstall in my upcoming video.
Vehicular DIY thanks! Will be looking forward to it! Great vids!
Are you planning on putting the helix back again?
Yeah I'll continue to run it.
How many miles do you plan on driving before you plan on changing the oil? 1000 or so?
I'll change the oil a couple times at least as a flush within the first hour of running. Then fill it with my regular preferred oil. Then I'll probably drive on it 3K miles.
Hey man I wanna ask you what it is that you do as your regular job are you technician or something how do you know so much man. Also your videos have help me not feel so scared to work on my own car. I have an n51 btw which I believe is technically still an n52
Hey I work in IT hardware during the day. I was exposed to a relatives shop from 14 to 16 and kind of just took it from there as my side hobby. I'm glad my videos have inspired you to tackle your own jobs!