Joe, thanks for the video and a great do it yourself project. My family made me one for Mothers Day and I just love it. I have about 13 different feeders on it so far. Pre drilling holes at regular intervals made it so much easier to attach hooks for the feeders!❤
That's awesome! Thanks for sharing! Mine is still in great shape. It does need to be pressure washed and needs some minor repairs to the small spacer blocks. other than that the squirrels and the raccoons eat the left overs from the ground.
I wish I could relive my life again. I would like to be able to do this and carpentry work. I love looking at you do this. The finished product is so pleasing to look at because everything fits together as it supposed to be. Your work is so well done!
You're welcome! Post back here when you're finished and let me know how it went. Especially if I missed something or something was unclear, so it will help others.
This is exactly what I need, something that is racoon proof. I won't be able to do the fancier wood work but I can handle the posts. Thank you for this
With the cost of lumber now, a nice pellet gun would look like a thrifty alternative to your wooden support structure! It's very beautiful though, and I understand the pressure exerted by the spouse. I'd probably end up doing your project for the same reason!
A few things I learned building this. 1. Make sure when you dig the posts - try hard to dig the same depth. Take your time on that part. Tamp the bottom of the hole FIRST, before planting the Post. Also keep checking the "Line" if the posts in relation to each other. If you plant one an inch forward, the wood will have trouble mating. 2. I found the Duct Work did not fit well for my 4x4 Posts. I used a piece of sheet metal instead. Make sure you have a saw to cut the sheet metal. It was much easier to work with the Sheet metal, and it sits square on the post. 3. The Lookouts and Top Rail notches: The desired outcome is that these boards sit flush. (giving the illusion of being all one piece). Make sure your notches are flush. The first time I mated them, the notches were not deep enough. I think finding the middle of the 5 + 1/4 Board was the culprit here. 4. You are going to need a step ladder of some kind (Not a roofing ladder). You will be up and down that ladder 100x. (2 Drills - makes it easier too). 5. I also had trouble putting in the spacers, (even though I thought I did well on measurements). Some would not fit in, I had to re-cut quite a few times. (I have no idea why, but its probably my fault) . 6. Pressure treated wood tends to get a real ugly (Greyish-black) in a few years. I selected a stain, something like a "Tan" color. (I would plan to stain it). Lastly - Many thanks to "doityourselfwithJoe" - who posted this video , and gave great instructions anyone could follow, and also did not leave any detail out. Every measurement was in the video.
Thanks for the kind words. Also thanks for posting! I think this is awesome! It gives another perspective and shows what someone may run into if they don't have much experience. Thanks again!
I made one of these today and im super happy with the result. 1 thing, no idea how people get square and plumb cuts with jig saws. I ended up just using a hand saw to cut the notches after the first couple came out squirrely
Awesome feeding station! I’m battling the raccoons at night. Does the 8” duct work truly help with raccoons? My husband went with 6” and it’s not working….just want to make sure the 8” does before we swap it out. Thanks!
yes it does. I've had this up since this video and know raccoons or squirrels. I have a 4" duct on the post firs then the 8" and have had now problems.
I just finished building this off of your directions. I LOVE IT! We used concrete on the posts b/c I live in an area that has a lot more drainage. We also found 5" x 4' ducting that worked great as well. It took us 1 day to set the posts and then 1 full day to do everything else.
That is awesome! We might be moving ours soon because the tree next to it is rotting from the inside and is in danger of falling. So i am glad i didn't set it in concrete. I glad you found the video helpful and thank you for commenting!
I used 4 inch and 6 inch duct work for the posts. You can find it in the heating section at your Menards or Home Depot. I used 4 inch first and the racoons could still climb. I left the 4 inch on and installed 6 inch over the 4 inch. That kept the squirrels from climbing behind the 6 inch.
because the duct was round i just tightened the screws equally and the pressure from the duct kept it in place. I hope that makes sense. If you want you can stack several nuts together as spacers or cut a couple pieces of conduit pipe to use as spacers.
@@Doityourselfwithjoe Finished it this morning. My jig saw and router skills need some work, but I'm very happy with how it turned out! Thanks for the video! It was very well done and easy to follow along!!
Nice carpenter style thinking. Like listening to me! I was skipping the details, but did you mention to crown the beams? Ya don't want a mules back! Usually treated has an extra 1/8" in width, so spacers at the 3-1/2" should have been kinda loose?
Hey Nice Video man, I am going to try it this weekend. One Question about the spacers - I noticed you oriented them Horizontal with the ground. I am thinking a vertical orientation will trap less rain on the top of the spacers. + Did you wind up staining your boards?
@@Doityourselfwithjoe You really did a good job getting all the details in the video. Often times, a measurement or something else is left out. Good work on the Video techniques, speeding up the video cuts.
We've had some try to jump from the oak tree to the feeder and didn't make it. I had to leave the 4" duct under the 8" so the squirrels couldn't climb up behind the duct work. The duct work took away from the feeder however the damage they were cause was worth the trade!
the squirrels still get to eat. My wife puts food on the ground and the birds are messy so the squirrels pick up after the birds. If the squirrels wouldn't tear things up it wouldn't be a problem.
@@Doityourselfwithjoe Squirrels love raw walnuts in the shell/peanuts/sunflower seeds in the shell/out and more. They need to eat too. They can live 15 years if they get food/stay warm in winter/water etc.. They are worthy like birds to eat. Glad they get something in your yard.
@@Shasha8674 we have the gray squirrels and little orange squirrels, also chipmunks . Unfortunately we have moles and they are killing my lawn. She is trying to attract the deer. My wife counted the species of birds in the summer and we get 33 different species. Her favorite are the Orioles and humming birds.
@@Doityourselfwithjoe Wow! Nice to have nature there! Moles/Opposiums etc get air into the soil. Small price for helping wildlife survive/thrive. A lawn that is well used is good. Thanks for helping the birds and animals!
BIRD FEEDER STATION DESIGN 09/28/2020 Follow the video Materials: $$ (~ 160.00) ----------------------------------------- WOOD - Pressure Treated: (2) 10' x 4" Posts $50.00 (24.98) (2) 12' 5 1/4" x 6" Decking Boards $45.00 (21.32 ea) (4) 8' 5 1/4" x 6" Decking Boards $52.00 (14.12 ea) (2) 4" x 36" 4-in x 60-in Galvanized Steel Round Duct Pipe ($10.00) -Hanging Hooks ($1.00 each) -Wood Screws 2.5" ----------------------------------------- Tools: ----------------------------------------- *-Post Level Hammer Speed Square Jig Saw Sander *Paint? Sawhorses Saw Table ----------------------------------------- 1. Scalloped ends: "TOP RAILS" (Long Boards) ----------------------------------------- With a piece of scrap wood, make a template for scallop. Measure one inch in from the end of the board. Use a 5gallon bucket to template the circle. Measure up from the sideboard, 1" Trace the circle with the bucket. Cut the circle out. ----------------------------------------- 2. "LOOKOUTS": Shorter Boards, + Scalloped ends: ----------------------------------------- *DO NOT CUT BOTH SIDES OF THE LOOKOUTS -YET Use the template to trace the same design on the ends. ----------------------------------------- 3. Sand or Route the boards . ----------------------------------------- to create rolled edges ----------------------------------------- 4. Set the Posts ----------------------------------------- Measure away from fence to mark the site line. (Line up the posts are properly). DIG Post holes: 2': Keep Leveling the posts, vertically Set posts 8' on center * Ensure the posts are parallel (Facing) in the hole, to avoid twisting wood.
Fill in the holes, be careful about centering. (Tamp down - with 2x4 around the post) ----------------------------------------- 5. TOP RAILS Assembly ----------------------------------------- The Top Rails, sit flush with the post heads, and are screwed into the posts, on either side. Measure up 7' on the 2 posts - use scrap wood for a support for top work (this will be removed later)
LEVEL.
REST The first Top Rail on the 7' scrap wood. LEVEL
Measure both sides to ensure the same amount of Over Hang MARK The lines where the top board sits, to make cut outs *do this for both posts Take the top board to: @ the Saw horse
Use scrap wood from 5 1/4 decking, to draw width lines outside of the marks made when the top board was resting in position. MARK an X inside your resting post marks, so you don’t cut into it. MEASURE/MARK the CENTER of the Board: MARK another X - which will identify the top piece (no cut) *The notches should be faced up, in relation to the round edges. Use the first (completed) Top board - to template the 2nd one. SET ATTACH - BOTH TOP RAILS ON THE POSTS. ------------------------------------------------ Flush, Level, Evaluate, PRE-DRILL. ----------------------------------------- 6. LOOKOUTS (4) (Perpendicular boards)/shorter ----------------------------------------- {Dimensions should be 51 = 1/2"} You will need 4 of these boards, cut to {51 1/2"} REUSE the TEMPLATE for the round cut outs. REMOVE the Temporary brace boards on the TOP RAILS. Mark LOOKOUTS for mating to the TOP RAILS. (Use a 5 1/4" Scrap) NOTE: ***Instead of notching the tops, the LOOKOUTS are notched on the bottom. TEST First Lookout FITS @ The Bird Stand 7. SPACER BLOCKS ----------------------------------------- SPACER blocks prevent warping, and provide more feed mounts 3.5" Wide: Total of at least : 7 SPACERS INSTALL the SPACERS, about an inch up from the bottom TOP RAIL. and LOOKOUTS. 1 spacer on the top rail (Overhang end) - oriented on the bottom scallop. 2 spacer on the top rail (Overhang end) 3 spacer on lookouts on center line, 4 spacer on lookouts on center line, 5 spacer on lookouts on center line, 6 spacer on lookouts on center line, 7 Last Spacer was placed inside the TOP RAILS, on center line. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- (You can add more spacers, for more bird feeders). Install Duct work - About 2 Feet from top. (Install with screws) Install Hooks for Feeders Stain.?
I had a similar setup with the 5inch ductwork and raccoons still climbed without a problem. Very frustrating. I put a plastic mat with spikes around ductwork and they didn’t give a shit. It’s war with these extremely persistent a-holes.
$600? Where the hell do you live? I am doing this with just a single post and the cost all total at Lowe’s yesterday for 1-4x4x10 foot post 2-5/4 x 10 boards Screws and hooks… under $100!
I feel your pain. We had 27 holes to dig at work for bollards in a parking lot in Chicago. We rented a post hole digger because we had to go at least 30" deep. couldn't go more than 10" because there were too many rocks and bricks. We had to dig by hand and had to use a hilti powered chisel. Took 3 days for 8 men to dig 27 holes when the complete job was supposed to take 2!
I doubt this stopped squirrels. They can reach the feeders by just jumping from the ground. They need to be higher. Believe me, I know from experience…
no squirrels and no racoons. The squirrels stay at the bottom and get the leftovers! There is two layers of duct work. The raccoons could climb the 4" so i installed the second layer over the 4".
Joe, thanks for the video and a great do it yourself project. My family made me one for Mothers Day and I just love it. I have about 13 different feeders on it so far. Pre drilling holes at regular intervals made it so much easier to attach hooks for the feeders!❤
That's awesome! Thanks for sharing! Mine is still in great shape. It does need to be pressure washed and needs some minor repairs to the small spacer blocks. other than that the squirrels and the raccoons eat the left overs from the ground.
Thanks!
Thank you for your support!
I'm impressed.... You did a great job on your DIY bird feeder! 👍
Thank you!
I wish I could relive my life again. I would like to be able to do this and carpentry work. I love looking at you do this. The finished product is so pleasing to look at because everything fits together as it supposed to be. Your work is so well done!
Thank you for the kind words!
Your neighbors get to enjoy your handiwork too! Nice!
NICE! i did something similar in my yard and added a bird house to the top of the post. Have a family living there already.
That's awesome!
This is just so well done! Thanks for sharing your design and step by step. I hope to use your video to build this myself.
You're welcome! Post back here when you're finished and let me know how it went. Especially if I missed something or something was unclear, so it will help others.
I’m not a builder, so won’t be doing this, but appreciate someone showing this. I love feeding the birds and will buy something instead
This is exactly what I need, something that is racoon proof. I won't be able to do the fancier wood work but I can handle the posts. Thank you for this
you're welcome!
With the cost of lumber now, a nice pellet gun would look like a thrifty alternative to your wooden support structure! It's very beautiful though, and I understand the pressure exerted by the spouse. I'd probably end up doing your project for the same reason!
solar post lights would look nice on top of the post.
That's a great idea!
A few things I learned building this.
1. Make sure when you dig the posts - try hard to dig the same depth. Take your time on that part. Tamp the bottom of the hole FIRST, before planting the Post. Also keep checking the "Line" if the posts in relation to each other. If you plant one an inch forward, the wood will have trouble mating.
2. I found the Duct Work did not fit well for my 4x4 Posts. I used a piece of sheet metal instead. Make sure you have a saw to cut the sheet metal.
It was much easier to work with the Sheet metal, and it sits square on the post.
3. The Lookouts and Top Rail notches: The desired outcome is that these boards sit flush. (giving the illusion of being all one piece). Make sure your notches are flush. The first time I mated them, the notches were not deep enough. I think finding the middle of the 5 + 1/4 Board was the culprit here.
4. You are going to need a step ladder of some kind (Not a roofing ladder). You will be up and down that ladder 100x. (2 Drills - makes it easier too).
5. I also had trouble putting in the spacers, (even though I thought I did well on measurements). Some would not fit in, I had to re-cut quite a few times.
(I have no idea why, but its probably my fault) .
6. Pressure treated wood tends to get a real ugly (Greyish-black) in a few years. I selected a stain, something like a "Tan" color. (I would plan to stain it).
Lastly - Many thanks to "doityourselfwithJoe" - who posted this video , and gave great instructions anyone could follow, and also did not leave any detail out.
Every measurement was in the video.
Thanks for the kind words. Also thanks for posting! I think this is awesome! It gives another perspective and shows what someone may run into if they don't have much experience. Thanks again!
Awesome job! I love this!
Thank you!
I made one of these today and im super happy with the result. 1 thing, no idea how people get square and plumb cuts with jig saws. I ended up just using a hand saw to cut the notches after the first couple came out squirrely
You need a good Jig saw and the correct blades. Also sharp blades. I also have been using one for about 40 years
Awesome feeding station! I’m battling the raccoons at night. Does the 8” duct work truly help with raccoons? My husband went with 6” and it’s not working….just want to make sure the 8” does before we swap it out. Thanks!
yes it does. I've had this up since this video and know raccoons or squirrels. I have a 4" duct on the post firs then the 8" and have had now problems.
PVC pipe also works well
I just finished building this off of your directions. I LOVE IT! We used concrete on the posts b/c I live in an area that has a lot more drainage. We also found 5" x 4' ducting that worked great as well. It took us 1 day to set the posts and then 1 full day to do everything else.
That is awesome! We might be moving ours soon because the tree next to it is rotting from the inside and is in danger of falling. So i am glad i didn't set it in concrete. I glad you found the video helpful and thank you for commenting!
This is the best setup thank you
You're Welcome!
What's the metal called which goes around the post? Thanks.
I used 4 inch and 6 inch duct work for the posts. You can find it in the heating section at your Menards or Home Depot. I used 4 inch first and the racoons could still climb. I left the 4 inch on and installed 6 inch over the 4 inch. That kept the squirrels from climbing behind the 6 inch.
Absolutely love It!! Great Job!!❤
Any chance you could post the wood requirements to this video?
Do you have any dimensional plans for this?
Thanks
I love it ❤. Thank you!
Absolutely beautiful 😁
When you added the 8" duct how did you attach it to the post? Did you make wood spacers to go between the duct and post and then screwed it in?
because the duct was round i just tightened the screws equally and the pressure from the duct kept it in place. I hope that makes sense. If you want you can stack several nuts together as spacers or cut a couple pieces of conduit pipe to use as spacers.
@@Doityourselfwithjoe Thanks for the response! I look forward to building it this weekend!
Please let me know how it goes!
@@Doityourselfwithjoe Finished it this morning. My jig saw and router skills need some work, but I'm very happy with how it turned out! Thanks for the video! It was very well done and easy to follow along!!
@@etplayer7 Thanks for letting me know how it turned out!
Amazing work
Thank You!
Nice job Steve, add a post cap to top of 4x4 would look good but you probably have. Sure wife is very happy with what
you have done.
Love. Now can ya come to Texas and build me one 😂.
Sure! It may cost you a lot, especially air fair! 😁
Great job!! I love it!
Thank you! I appreciate that!
Awesome work!!
Great video!
Awesome! Thank you!
You're welcome!
Nice carpenter style thinking. Like listening to me! I was skipping the details, but did you mention to crown the beams? Ya don't want a mules back!
Usually treated has an extra 1/8" in width, so spacers at the 3-1/2" should have been kinda loose?
Hey Nice Video man, I am going to try it this weekend. One Question about the spacers - I noticed you oriented them Horizontal with the ground. I am thinking a vertical orientation will trap less rain on the top of the spacers. + Did you wind up staining your boards?
No i did not stain them. I laid the spacers down so i would have more room for hooks. If you stand them up You can add more spacers for hooks.
@@Doityourselfwithjoe You really did a good job getting all the details in the video. Often times, a measurement or something else is left out. Good work on the Video techniques, speeding up the video cuts.
did your neighbor build a new deck? it looks old in one part of the video and then new at the end.
He is working on it. He is adding on to the old one and repairing rotted boards.
Very profesional Work on carpentry but here where I live squirrels jump up to 8 to 10 feet so that high I need at least 12 foot poles
We've had some try to jump from the oak tree to the feeder and didn't make it. I had to leave the 4" duct under the 8" so the squirrels couldn't climb up behind the duct work. The duct work took away from the feeder however the damage they were cause was worth the trade!
You need to show the squirrels!
Squirrels etc are awesome! Be kind to all wildlife!
the squirrels still get to eat. My wife puts food on the ground and the birds are messy so the squirrels pick up after the birds. If the squirrels wouldn't tear things up it wouldn't be a problem.
@@Doityourselfwithjoe Squirrels love raw walnuts in the shell/peanuts/sunflower seeds in the shell/out and more. They need to eat too. They can live 15 years if they get food/stay warm in winter/water etc.. They are worthy like birds to eat. Glad they get something in your yard.
@@Shasha8674 we have the gray squirrels and little orange squirrels, also chipmunks . Unfortunately we have moles and they are killing my lawn. She is trying to attract the deer. My wife counted the species of birds in the summer and we get 33 different species. Her favorite are the Orioles and humming birds.
@@Doityourselfwithjoe Wow! Nice to have nature there! Moles/Opposiums etc get air into the soil. Small price for helping wildlife survive/thrive. A lawn that is well used is good. Thanks for helping the birds and animals!
BIRD FEEDER STATION DESIGN 09/28/2020
Follow the video
Materials: $$ (~ 160.00)
-----------------------------------------
WOOD - Pressure Treated:
(2) 10' x 4" Posts $50.00 (24.98)
(2) 12' 5 1/4" x 6" Decking Boards $45.00 (21.32 ea)
(4) 8' 5 1/4" x 6" Decking Boards $52.00 (14.12 ea)
(2) 4" x 36" 4-in x 60-in Galvanized Steel Round Duct Pipe ($10.00)
-Hanging Hooks ($1.00 each)
-Wood Screws 2.5"
-----------------------------------------
Tools:
-----------------------------------------
*-Post Level
Hammer
Speed Square
Jig Saw
Sander
*Paint?
Sawhorses
Saw Table
-----------------------------------------
1. Scalloped ends: "TOP RAILS" (Long Boards)
-----------------------------------------
With a piece of scrap wood, make a template for scallop.
Measure one inch in from the end of the board.
Use a 5gallon bucket to template the circle.
Measure up from the sideboard, 1"
Trace the circle with the bucket.
Cut the circle out.
-----------------------------------------
2. "LOOKOUTS": Shorter Boards, + Scalloped ends:
-----------------------------------------
*DO NOT CUT BOTH SIDES OF THE LOOKOUTS -YET
Use the template to trace the same design on the ends.
-----------------------------------------
3. Sand or Route the boards .
-----------------------------------------
to create rolled edges
-----------------------------------------
4. Set the Posts
-----------------------------------------
Measure away from fence to mark the site line.
(Line up the posts are properly).
DIG Post holes: 2': Keep Leveling the posts, vertically
Set posts 8' on center
* Ensure the posts are parallel (Facing) in the hole, to avoid twisting wood.
Fill in the holes, be careful about centering.
(Tamp down - with 2x4 around the post)
-----------------------------------------
5. TOP RAILS Assembly
-----------------------------------------
The Top Rails, sit flush with the post heads, and are screwed
into the posts, on either side.
Measure up 7' on the 2 posts - use scrap wood for a support for top work
(this will be removed later)
LEVEL.
REST The first Top Rail on the 7' scrap wood.
LEVEL
Measure both sides to ensure the same amount of Over Hang
MARK The lines where the top board sits, to make cut outs
*do this for both posts
Take the top board to: @ the Saw horse
Use scrap wood from 5 1/4 decking, to draw width lines outside
of the marks made when the top board was resting in position.
MARK an X inside your resting post marks, so you don’t cut into it.
MEASURE/MARK the CENTER of the Board:
MARK another X - which will identify the top piece (no cut)
*The notches should be faced up, in relation to the round edges.
Use the first (completed) Top board - to template the 2nd one.
SET ATTACH - BOTH TOP RAILS ON THE POSTS.
------------------------------------------------
Flush, Level, Evaluate, PRE-DRILL.
-----------------------------------------
6. LOOKOUTS (4) (Perpendicular boards)/shorter
-----------------------------------------
{Dimensions should be 51 = 1/2"}
You will need 4 of these boards, cut to {51 1/2"}
REUSE the TEMPLATE for the round cut outs.
REMOVE the Temporary brace boards on the TOP RAILS.
Mark LOOKOUTS for mating to the TOP RAILS.
(Use a 5 1/4" Scrap)
NOTE:
***Instead of notching the tops, the LOOKOUTS are notched on the bottom.
TEST First Lookout FITS @ The Bird Stand
7. SPACER BLOCKS
-----------------------------------------
SPACER blocks prevent warping, and provide more feed mounts
3.5" Wide: Total of at least : 7 SPACERS
INSTALL the SPACERS, about an inch up from the bottom TOP RAIL.
and LOOKOUTS.
1 spacer on the top rail (Overhang end) - oriented on the bottom scallop.
2 spacer on the top rail (Overhang end)
3 spacer on lookouts on center line,
4 spacer on lookouts on center line,
5 spacer on lookouts on center line,
6 spacer on lookouts on center line,
7 Last Spacer was placed inside the TOP RAILS, on center line.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
(You can add more spacers, for more bird feeders).
Install Duct work - About 2 Feet from top.
(Install with screws)
Install Hooks for Feeders
Stain.?
Is it really though? Serious question
I had a similar setup with the 5inch ductwork and raccoons still climbed without a problem. Very frustrating. I put a plastic mat with spikes around ductwork and they didn’t give a shit. It’s war with these extremely persistent a-holes.
With prices of lumber today, you're looking at about 600.00! 😜
I know, right! It's crazy!
$600? Where the hell do you live?
I am doing this with just a single post and the cost all total at Lowe’s yesterday for
1-4x4x10 foot post
2-5/4 x 10 boards
Screws and hooks… under $100!
Sure is nice when you don't have rocks in the soil.
I feel your pain. We had 27 holes to dig at work for bollards in a parking lot in Chicago. We rented a post hole digger because we had to go at least 30" deep. couldn't go more than 10" because there were too many rocks and bricks. We had to dig by hand and had to use a hilti powered chisel. Took 3 days for 8 men to dig 27 holes when the complete job was supposed to take 2!
I doubt this stopped squirrels. They can reach the feeders by just jumping from the ground. They need to be higher. Believe me, I know from experience…
no squirrels and no racoons. The squirrels stay at the bottom and get the leftovers! There is two layers of duct work. The raccoons could climb the 4" so i installed the second layer over the 4".
I don't have the tools or skill to build this.. I wish somebody could build this for me
why does it keep moving ?????? is it solid?????
There are projects on how to do this on the Stodoys website.
Why so complicated and over-engineered? It looks like two people died and the bird feeders were after thought.
This video was way longer than it needed to be.