Thank you for making this video! I bought a used keyboard that didn't work. I was able to remove the old batteries and clean it up! Now it works great for my old iPad! Thank you!
IMPORTANT TIP GUYS- In the event when the battery cover is stuck, TURN OFF the keyboard. step 1. try to open the back plastic and try to pour some WD 40 or penetrating oil keeping keyboard in battery cover down position (gravity dependent) step 2 leave it in gravity dependent position (so that oil can go towards the screw) for a day or two, step 3 check if the cap is loose, if not that means you need to pour more penetrating oil , repeat step 1, 2, 3. you need to (open and close) the screw gently, once it gets even little loose, it will be nice if you can tap gently so the penetrating glue makes the screw loose. kindly try to unscrew and unscrew - nich by nich and will open the battery cover. Once battery cover is open, let it dry an clean the leaked battery component well. let the key board dry. and start using. This helped me, hope this helps all in need.
Thank you for this video! I had three Duracells in mine. The first one came out OK and the second one was stuck. I took everything apart like you showed and then gave it a push with a screwdriver. If I went any harder I think I would have broken something, but they did not move. I had already scraped out as much corrosion as I could with an exacto knife. Then I poured some vinegar down on top of the second battery and gave that some time. Then I tapped the whole keyboard on the carpeted floor and the second battery came out. Then I repeated and the third battery came out. I cleaned it out carefully with a wet bottle brush followed by paper towels. When I put it all back together it worked!
My keyboard is very similar to this one except that the plastic cover is in the middle. So I took out the middle section and I realised that there is not a battery stuck inside, it just looks like there is still a battery inside when you look into the chamber! I had not used my keyboard for years and did not realise that it only needs 2 batteries. However, using your video really helped me to solve the issue. Many thanks for your effort.
Extra tip: for the final push (min 5:00) you can use a hard long wire to push through the small central hole. I used an old wire hanger and it worked like a charm. Very helpful video, thanks!
Tried everything, to no avail. The batteries simply glued themselves inside the aluminum case. Sodium bicarbonate and vinegar did nothing to allow me to pry open the cap screw. I ended up cutting a strip around the edge of the screw with my Dremel tool, so I could squeeze the edge of the screw with lock pliers. Only then I had access to the negative side of the battery. Nothing I did moved the batteries, so I ended up destroying both ends in the attempts. I finally, in a rage, drilled the interior of the batteries (don't do that -- hazardous chemicals inside) to try to empty the space for new ones. It didn't work. The external metal of the batteries seems to be fused to the aluminum case. I'm now working on an external battery holder to be soldered to the little printed circuito board in the middle part. Thank you so much, Duracell: 9 out of 10 leaking batteries at my home are of that brand. I even sent them once a photo of leaking batteries inside the original package, well within the warranty date.
Great video! Luckily i have the newer 2 battery version of this keyboard where the 'deepest' battery sits right next to the opening in the middle. The hardest part was to decouple the cable from the pc board. After that you simply slide the pc board out of the casing and remove the corroded battery via the opening in the middle.
Thank you! All I needed was the tip on getting the plastic cover off... from there, since mine only has two batteries, it was easy... I'm typing to you from that keyboard now. Thanks a bunch!
I had exactly the same problem around the time you filmed this. I ended up emailing Duracell to say their batteries had corroded and were lodged. They directed me to a form where I could claim, with a screenshot of a new keyboard on Apple’s website, and they sent me a cheque for the value of a new one and a £5 voucher for Duracell batteries after sending the keyboard to them in a prepaid padded envelope that they sent out to me
Marketing gimmick, as ALL alkaline batteries will leak. They all have a vent on the negative terminal that when the battery is depleted enough will open and release potassium hydroxide, which is caustic and chews up plated metal contacts. Duracell figures it's cheaper to do what it did for you by sending you a check without admitting that it's batteries leak as much as any other brand. It's a cheap price to pay for keeping the advertising lie going!
I know this is an old video but I have found that white vinegar is an excellent way to remove corrosion. I haven't tried this but maybe placing a few drops down the end may have freed up the battery enough to remove it. Be careful not to put too much down there. At the very least, on a Q-Tip, it would clean up the mess in the battery area. Be sure to clean it with water and dry it thoroughly afterwards.
Mine is a two battery version. After I gutted the electrics, I used a 1/4" wooden dowel and a hammer to get the stuck battery out. Then I used an old toothbrush soaked in vinegar to clean the tube. I'll never use Energizers again. One of them almost ruined a flashlight I had too.
My furthest from the end batter was stuck solid...no evidence of corrosion. I drilled a hole in the centre of the battery. Got a steel self tapping screw with stainless steel wire tightly wrapped around it and screwed it into the end of the battery. Pulled REALLY hard on the wire and the batter came out. (actually I secured the wire in a vice and pulled on the keyboard).
Thanks for the video. I was able to get my busted up batteries out of the mid cover version. Sadly, not all the keys are working. Might try to reseat the ribbon cable again.
I have one battery that is frozen deep inside the battery compartment but after watching this I may use it as an excuse to upgrade to the new rechargeable version of the keyboard.
I took off the cover and only bring back the spring pulling it and passed a metal to push back the battery , I am not took nothing off. latter I cleaned the tube for the same place i need to put the batteries using a wet bounty sheet and dry it. My cover is in the middle.
In my device, the LAST battery is swollen and I really don't know where exactly you pryed from behind. As well, my tool won't be long enough to push one battery all the way out since it will block all the way back. What I just did is hammering the keyboard on the workbench, but it only moves some mm's and my hands hurts already... Someone already got the LAST battery out?
In a series-wired AA or AAA circuit like this, it is the weakest battery that will blow its vent cap and leak potassium hydroxide, a caustic substance that eats metal contacts, as well as expanding in size. As is the case here, the other two batteries won't then vent (unless you let the unit sit unused for years). After this, use rechargeable NiMH batteries instead. They have a slightly lower voltage which some appliances will often interpret as "weak batteries" when they are not, but they won't leak either - they use a vastly different chemistry than alkalines. I refuse to use alkalines in anything other than a rubbish flashlight that I don't mind losing once the battery vents and destroys the contacts.
It's a design flaw. The heat causes the batts to leak and the acid severely corrodes the alum and swells the already too tight batteries. The cover may corrode-weld shut also and need major solid tapping and force to get free to unscrew. then the stuck batteries need to be extracted. Drill a hole in batt and put a screw in extreme cases. Re-chargable batteries may be less prone to leaks. YOU MUST CLEAN THE ACID OUT OF THE INSIDE or it will swell and contaminate the new batteries soon. You can use a pencil & paper towel or try baking soda & water. The inside corrosion may continue, not much you can do about that. Good luck!
By the way, maybe you should change the title to indicate 3 battery model. There are many videos for the 2 battery model and I had to check many videos before I found yours.
Adam, I have the leak battery, but I can't even open the battery cap which you put a coin to turn the cap. The battery cap/cover like glue with the keyboard, not able to turn. Do you have any idea how I can open the cap/battery cover?
Thnx ! Apple is not good at all. This is an constructive mistake. As ISO 9001 certified company they should foresee this problem and solve it otherwise in their Research and Developpmend department. But in reality this is made by purpose to sell more !!!
Ah thank god, didn't realise that middle plastic cover came off as it was on so tightly - managed to use a screwdriver to force the battery out from the back. I'll remember this product every time some pleb tries telling me Apple products are well-designed. Had they just put a normal battery cover on the back of this thing no-one would have this issue. Another case of aesthetics over functionality. EDIT - nope still fucked, in the bin you go, Apple.
hola, tengo el teclado que tiene a un lado todo el sistema. Retiré todo y había un agujero en el centro... con temor de romper lo que que había en el interior corte un colgador de ropa (armador) y lo empujé y la batería salío sin dificultad. Ninguna pila estaba corroída pero llebavan allí atoradas por mas de 10 años. Hello, I have the keyboard that has the whole system aside. I removed everything and there was a hole in the center...for fear of breaking what was inside I cut a clothes hanger (armor) and pushed it in and the battery came out without difficulty. Neither battery was corroded but they had been stuck there for over 10 years.
Same problem. The far end of the PCB compartment only has a tiny hole in the middle, and it looks like there's something in that hole, a wire or a spring. I cannot push anything that's thick enough to push behind it through that hole without risking to break it.
@@VictorSergienko I ended op drilling a hole in the batteries from the normal side, and pulled when the drill was halfway through te battery. Worked like a charm, still use the keyboard today haha!
@@ThijmenCodes Thank you! I'll try it, just need to get a gloves and an eye protection - they say alcaine batteries can spray you with chemicals, maybe even the dead ones.
Hello! I did all, but I accidentally got out the cables from the ON/OFF button and they were welded. What can I do? can that little cables be welded again? what kind of tools do I need? thanks!!! (I don't have weld tools but I can ask for somebody)
They can probably be soldered, but it's been a very long time since I looked at one of these keyboards - so not sure how straight forward it is I'm afraid!
I have a very old Magic Keyboard i wanted to clean and see if I can get it back to life but then I somehow saw a battery was stuck in there which wouldn't come out. But seeing this I think I just throw it out as it seems to complicated.
Whatever you do DON'T use Duracells. They destroyed my wireless keyboard and about a dozen other electronic devices. They used to be great, now they're made in China and just as bad as any cheap batteries - maybe worse.
Thank you for making this video! I bought a used keyboard that didn't work. I was able to remove the old batteries and clean it up! Now it works great for my old iPad! Thank you!
IMPORTANT TIP GUYS- In the event when the battery cover is stuck, TURN OFF the keyboard.
step 1. try to open the back plastic and try to pour some WD 40 or penetrating oil keeping keyboard in battery cover down position (gravity dependent)
step 2 leave it in gravity dependent position (so that oil can go towards the screw) for a day or two,
step 3 check if the cap is loose, if not
that means you need to pour more penetrating oil , repeat step 1, 2, 3. you need to (open and close) the screw gently, once it gets even little loose, it will be nice if you can tap gently so the penetrating glue makes the screw loose. kindly try to unscrew and unscrew - nich by nich and will open the battery cover. Once battery cover is open, let it dry an clean the leaked battery component well. let the key board dry. and start using. This helped me, hope this helps all in need.
Harsh Parikh Smartest idea in the room I thought of WD40 too 👍
Thank you for this video! I had three Duracells in mine. The first one came out OK and the second one was stuck. I took everything apart like you showed and then gave it a push with a screwdriver. If I went any harder I think I would have broken something, but they did not move. I had already scraped out as much corrosion as I could with an exacto knife. Then I poured some vinegar down on top of the second battery and gave that some time. Then I tapped the whole keyboard on the carpeted floor and the second battery came out. Then I repeated and the third battery came out. I cleaned it out carefully with a wet bottle brush followed by paper towels. When I put it all back together it worked!
My keyboard is very similar to this one except that the plastic cover is in the middle. So I took out the middle section and I realised that there is not a battery stuck inside, it just looks like there is still a battery inside when you look into the chamber! I had not used my keyboard for years and did not realise that it only needs 2 batteries. However, using your video really helped me to solve the issue. Many thanks for your effort.
Used this for a repair, thank you for making this video.
You’re a lifesaver, dude!
Used a screwdriver on the 2 battery keyboard and moved out the spring and pushed down! Thanks for the help mate!!
Extra tip: for the final push (min 5:00) you can use a hard long wire to push through the small central hole. I used an old wire hanger and it worked like a charm. Very helpful video, thanks!
Tried everything, to no avail. The batteries simply glued themselves inside the aluminum case. Sodium bicarbonate and vinegar did nothing to allow me to pry open the cap screw. I ended up cutting a strip around the edge of the screw with my Dremel tool, so I could squeeze the edge of the screw with lock pliers. Only then I had access to the negative side of the battery. Nothing I did moved the batteries, so I ended up destroying both ends in the attempts. I finally, in a rage, drilled the interior of the batteries (don't do that -- hazardous chemicals inside) to try to empty the space for new ones. It didn't work. The external metal of the batteries seems to be fused to the aluminum case. I'm now working on an external battery holder to be soldered to the little printed circuito board in the middle part. Thank you so much, Duracell: 9 out of 10 leaking batteries at my home are of that brand. I even sent them once a photo of leaking batteries inside the original package, well within the warranty date.
Great video! Luckily i have the newer 2 battery version of this keyboard where the 'deepest' battery sits right next to the opening in the middle. The hardest part was to decouple the cable from the pc board. After that you simply slide the pc board out of the casing and remove the corroded battery via the opening in the middle.
This saved my keyboard -- thank you!!
Thanks for the help. Video was very useful!
Took a few hours but this saved me 50$ Thanks!
Drilled a hole in the batteries and they came out. Thanks for your guide though!
You are a legend, thank you
Thank you! All I needed was the tip on getting the plastic cover off... from there, since mine only has two batteries, it was easy... I'm typing to you from that keyboard now. Thanks a bunch!
Where at or what did you do to get the plastic cover off. I have the same problem
I had exactly the same problem around the time you filmed this. I ended up emailing Duracell to say their batteries had corroded and were lodged. They directed me to a form where I could claim, with a screenshot of a new keyboard on Apple’s website, and they sent me a cheque for the value of a new one and a £5 voucher for Duracell batteries after sending the keyboard to them in a prepaid padded envelope that they sent out to me
Marketing gimmick, as ALL alkaline batteries will leak. They all have a vent on the negative terminal that when the battery is depleted enough will open and release potassium hydroxide, which is caustic and chews up plated metal contacts. Duracell figures it's cheaper to do what it did for you by sending you a check without admitting that it's batteries leak as much as any other brand. It's a cheap price to pay for keeping the advertising lie going!
I know this is an old video but I have found that white vinegar is an excellent way to remove corrosion. I haven't tried this but maybe placing a few drops down the end may have freed up the battery enough to remove it. Be careful not to put too much down there. At the very least, on a Q-Tip, it would clean up the mess in the battery area. Be sure to clean it with water and dry it thoroughly afterwards.
great video bro'!
Thanks!
Mine is a two battery version. After I gutted the electrics, I used a 1/4" wooden dowel and a hammer to get the stuck battery out. Then I used an old toothbrush soaked in vinegar to clean the tube. I'll never use Energizers again. One of them almost ruined a flashlight I had too.
Thank you❣️❣️❣️
any odew how to get the end cap off when the corosion has it unscrewable, any way to dissolve the acid build up
My furthest from the end batter was stuck solid...no evidence of corrosion. I drilled a hole in the centre of the battery. Got a steel self tapping screw with stainless steel wire tightly wrapped around it and screwed it into the end of the battery. Pulled REALLY hard on the wire and the batter came out. (actually I secured the wire in a vice and pulled on the keyboard).
Thanks so much, I will tackle myself.
Thanks a million or at least $100!
Thanks for the video. I was able to get my busted up batteries out of the mid cover version. Sadly, not all the keys are working. Might try to reseat the ribbon cable again.
That ribbon cable was the scariest part for me. Fortunately, everything worked when I put it back together.
I have one battery that is frozen deep inside the battery compartment but after watching this I may use it as an excuse to upgrade to the new rechargeable version of the keyboard.
In the primary battery world 'Long Life' and 'Extra Long Life', means rubbish zinc alloy types that leak if fully discharged for a time.
Same Model, same problem, but stuck too tight
why can't I see the place to push the battery?
In the middle or edge with a clip side or the other??
I took off the cover and only bring back the spring pulling it and passed a metal to push back the battery , I am not took nothing off. latter I cleaned the tube for the same place i need to put the batteries using a wet bounty sheet and dry it. My cover is in the middle.
In my device, the LAST battery is swollen and I really don't know where exactly you pryed from behind. As well, my tool won't be long enough to push one battery all the way out since it will block all the way back. What I just did is hammering the keyboard on the workbench, but it only moves some mm's and my hands hurts already... Someone already got the LAST battery out?
In a series-wired AA or AAA circuit like this, it is the weakest battery that will blow its vent cap and leak potassium hydroxide, a caustic substance that eats metal contacts, as well as expanding in size. As is the case here, the other two batteries won't then vent (unless you let the unit sit unused for years). After this, use rechargeable NiMH batteries instead. They have a slightly lower voltage which some appliances will often interpret as "weak batteries" when they are not, but they won't leak either - they use a vastly different chemistry than alkalines. I refuse to use alkalines in anything other than a rubbish flashlight that I don't mind losing once the battery vents and destroys the contacts.
It's a design flaw. The heat causes the batts to leak and the acid severely corrodes the alum and swells the already too tight batteries. The cover may corrode-weld shut also and need major solid tapping and force to get free to unscrew. then the stuck batteries need to be extracted. Drill a hole in batt and put a screw in extreme cases. Re-chargable batteries may be less prone to leaks. YOU MUST CLEAN THE ACID OUT OF THE INSIDE or it will swell and contaminate the new batteries soon. You can use a pencil & paper towel or try baking soda & water. The inside corrosion may continue, not much you can do about that. Good luck!
Peter Bowman The corrosion stuck so badly on mine 😢 I used baking soda and vinegar but it won’t move a bit. So frustrated. Any other tips I could try?
Mine is still not work properly T T, do you think the corrosion around caused it? I really do not want to buy the new one 😢
Do you have the example for the keyboard with the cover in the middle (the later version) for me?
+Adamant IT Okay, thanks!
What about the 2 battery version
A little Baking Soda and water mix will neutralize the battery acid.
Does that dissolve it as well? Or just make it less abrasive?
By the way, maybe you should change the title to indicate 3 battery model. There are many videos for the 2 battery model and I had to check many videos before I found yours.
I have Duracell batteries stuck inside the tube, I guess all brands are at risk.
I am facing same problem but another issue which I am facing is the battery slot opening is stuck and I am unable to take out battery by pushing
Adam, I have the leak battery, but I can't even open the battery cap which you put a coin to turn the cap. The battery cap/cover like glue with the keyboard, not able to turn. Do you have any idea how I can open the cap/battery cover?
+Adamant IT Thx I have given up. I brought the new magic keyboard . Yes , I have try W40 no luck. Thx for the kind reply
i have the same problem too =(
Me too! Will the guarantee cover it?
Put a penny with a big plier and muscle it.
I have an apple magic trackpad with the same problem. I tried a nickel and Penny and both bent.
Thnx ! Apple is not good at all. This is an constructive mistake. As ISO 9001 certified company they should foresee this problem and solve it otherwise in their Research and Developpmend department. But in reality this is made by purpose to sell more !!!
Gender typing screws?
Any tip on how to remove the cover? Mine has refused to bulge. Tried a coin and a plier, end up bending the coin out of shape.
You have to tap it hard on something solid. The sulfuric acid causes corrosion that welds the 2 alum surfaces together.
Ah thank god, didn't realise that middle plastic cover came off as it was on so tightly - managed to use a screwdriver to force the battery out from the back. I'll remember this product every time some pleb tries telling me Apple products are well-designed. Had they just put a normal battery cover on the back of this thing no-one would have this issue. Another case of aesthetics over functionality.
EDIT - nope still fucked, in the bin you go, Apple.
hola, tengo el teclado que tiene a un lado todo el sistema. Retiré todo y había un agujero en el centro... con temor de romper lo que que había en el interior corte un colgador de ropa (armador) y lo empujé y la batería salío sin dificultad. Ninguna pila estaba corroída pero llebavan allí atoradas por mas de 10 años. Hello, I have the keyboard that has the whole system aside. I removed everything and there was a hole in the center...for fear of breaking what was inside I cut a clothes hanger (armor) and pushed it in and the battery came out without difficulty. Neither battery was corroded but they had been stuck there for over 10 years.
I have got everything out, but I don't understand where to push. Can someone explain?
same did you figure it out
Same problem. The far end of the PCB compartment only has a tiny hole in the middle, and it looks like there's something in that hole, a wire or a spring. I cannot push anything that's thick enough to push behind it through that hole without risking to break it.
@@VictorSergienko I ended op drilling a hole in the batteries from the normal side, and pulled when the drill was halfway through te battery. Worked like a charm, still use the keyboard today haha!
@@ThijmenCodes Thank you! I'll try it, just need to get a gloves and an eye protection - they say alcaine batteries can spray you with chemicals, maybe even the dead ones.
Hello! I did all, but I accidentally got out the cables from the ON/OFF button and they were welded. What can I do? can that little cables be welded again? what kind of tools do I need? thanks!!! (I don't have weld tools but I can ask for somebody)
They can probably be soldered, but it's been a very long time since I looked at one of these keyboards - so not sure how straight forward it is I'm afraid!
@@Adamant_IT Thanks for the answer...anyway I have bought today a new one.
use an old metal coat hanger
if I broke of the little semi circle that goes around the first screw ( ground) will it still work? I did get met batter out successfully.
Should be okay... most products are over-engineered. Only one way to find out...
Fuk apple cAnt even open the lid. Pla help
I have a very old Magic Keyboard i wanted to clean and see if I can get it back to life but then I somehow saw a battery was stuck in there which wouldn't come out. But seeing this I think I just throw it out as it seems to complicated.
Whatever you do DON'T use Duracells. They destroyed my wireless keyboard and about a dozen other electronic devices. They used to be great, now they're made in China and just as bad as any cheap batteries - maybe worse.
What is the music for? Please no music, or at least turn it down a little bit. Thank you by the way.
what a crappy design. ugh