I've had good luck with the train connector by gently prying out the outer case with a thin plastic tool just enough to get the pry tool up in between the two parts. Then use a small flat screwdriver to pry each tab down. Repeat on the other side. Works with minimal damage and they go back together nicely.
Hey I know that guy 😅. I had a much easier time getting the connectors apart on the half dozen cables I've made, but I have had some of the black 9v connectors refuse to play well (see what I did there?). Maybe there were slight differences over time in the manufacturing or maybe how they are stored over the course of 20-30 years plays a role in the softness of the plastic. The shell for the ferrite choke is a pain no matter what you do, the tabs are on the end but kind of hard to get at. As you said cutting the wire first and prying on the ends usually works alright. Thanks for sharing, as I've said it took me 10 years to find this wire so I always appreciate a shoutout for that effort 😁
The track connectors just felt a lot more fragile than the other end. I pushed a little bit too hard and broke a few of the tabs on the second one I tried DX
Thanks for this = just managed to repair my 2 faulty connector cables today. Getting the choke and the black connector open was a pain but manged it ok in the end. The BNTECHGO cable you suggested is great and went into the teeth in the connectors perfectly. Again many thanks for the great instructional video
Hello, this should be the one: www.amazon.com/BNTECHGO-Silicone-Ribbon-Flexible-Strand/dp/B09X48JD8F/ref=sr_1_11?crid=20QVIK88X54WQ&keywords=BNTECHGO%2B24%2Bgauge&qid=1682913884&sprefix=bntechgo%2B24%2Bgauge%2Caps%2C149&sr=8-11&th=1 Make sure you get 24 gauge, but 2/4/6P should all be fine.
I've had good luck with the train connector by gently prying out the outer case with a thin plastic tool just enough to get the pry tool up in between the two parts. Then use a small flat screwdriver to pry each tab down. Repeat on the other side. Works with minimal damage and they go back together nicely.
Good tips! Haven't had to do nearly as many of these as the standard cable, so the process isn't quite as refined.
Hey I know that guy 😅. I had a much easier time getting the connectors apart on the half dozen cables I've made, but I have had some of the black 9v connectors refuse to play well (see what I did there?). Maybe there were slight differences over time in the manufacturing or maybe how they are stored over the course of 20-30 years plays a role in the softness of the plastic. The shell for the ferrite choke is a pain no matter what you do, the tabs are on the end but kind of hard to get at. As you said cutting the wire first and prying on the ends usually works alright. Thanks for sharing, as I've said it took me 10 years to find this wire so I always appreciate a shoutout for that effort 😁
The track connectors just felt a lot more fragile than the other end. I pushed a little bit too hard and broke a few of the tabs on the second one I tried DX
Thanks for this = just managed to repair my 2 faulty connector cables today. Getting the choke and the black connector open was a pain but manged it ok in the end. The BNTECHGO cable you suggested is great and went into the teeth in the connectors perfectly. Again many thanks for the great instructional video
Nice, glad you liked it!
thanks for the vid.. I've been meaning to repair my only 9V cable soon!
I’m having a rough time finding the cables. Do you have a direct link or search term I can use?
Hello, this should be the one:
www.amazon.com/BNTECHGO-Silicone-Ribbon-Flexible-Strand/dp/B09X48JD8F/ref=sr_1_11?crid=20QVIK88X54WQ&keywords=BNTECHGO%2B24%2Bgauge&qid=1682913884&sprefix=bntechgo%2B24%2Bgauge%2Caps%2C149&sr=8-11&th=1
Make sure you get 24 gauge, but 2/4/6P should all be fine.
I can trust an eBay seller with a messed up 9 volt track cable knowing now that you can fix them
They still wildly overcharge for them though 😢