I know I asked you about a repair service but I bit the bullet and ordered the wire, AMAZING!!! It works so well to repair these cables. I even moded some cables from old 4" 9v and turned them into 2 footers. FYI you can easily remove the white stripe with a paper towel and Acetone, comes off in like 4 swipes! Thank you so much!
I have absolutely no electrical skills/knowledge at all. But following the instructions in this video, I replaced the contact wires for set 4561 today! I was utterly amazed when I turned on the speed control and it worked! Many thanks to you sir
Just used this video to repair the wire for a 9V High Speed Train Set 4559, I remember always wanting back when I played LEGO LOCO as a kid. Found at a secondhand Lego store recently and snatched it up despite the totally shot cable. I used some 22AWG wire I had lying around from my HO model railroad, perhaps a tad large but it worked in the end. Thanks to you, this set is running smoothly again. Excellent tutorial, never lost for a moment.
Thanks. I take my train out once a year to put under the tree. I noticed this year it was not working and found the rubber covering cracking and pealing.
I just got out my kids' Lego 4561 train I bought them in the 90s and the wires are frayed and insulation is disintegrated. Searched for a repair video and your video popped up. Good timing that you post the video a month before I find the train. Thanks for sharing this!!! I may just solder new wire to the controller and the track, but still repair the original connecter later.
Awesome! While I never actually owned any of them, that era of Lego trains is definitely my favorite. I've made my own cables for years but just recently got everything I needed to make a decent guide. Finding the right wire was the biggest issue for me but I can be somewhat of a Lego purist 😅
@@BatteryPoweredBricks I ended up using the wire from an old router power adapter. I drilled a small hole in the back of the Lego controller and fed the wire in and soldered it to the circuit board. I opened up the two track connector blocks and soldered the other ends of the wire to those. I saved the magnet thing and 2x2 controller connector block just in case I decide to go back to the original wiring.
@@SteveCarmichael Whatever's clever! I've done several mods like that over the years, but I'm glad to have found wire that looks just like the original for any builds I do that are on display or would be in a video.
@@smyrna112 I've done a few for friends since I've found a good wire replacement. I'm toying with the idea of offering repairs or selling wires or sets of wire on eBay. I just need to really put some thought into cost and how much time would be invested. Feel free to contact me on Twitter / Instagram or my email is in my TH-cam about page
I rewired 2 of these train power cables today thanks to your videos. The original wires were a mess, missing the insulation for a full millimeter in several spots, having to set the wire just right to avoid shorts. I watched step by step, would come back and play a snippet of each part before attempting it, listening to the direction you said to push and twist the driver etc, even using the same mm screwdriver you suggested. Wow, the first try was just such a headache to even get all the clips apart (to make things even more frustrating, I started with the "extra credit" first). If I had not seen you pop them apart I might not even think it was possible to flex them open. By the second set I had a better idea of the shape of the clips and wasn't as concerned about scratching up the housing or breaking clips off so that went a little faster. I drew blood several times slipping with the tiny screwdriver and I had to take on and off my glasses depending on which part I was working on. You have steadier hands than I or so much practice handling these tiny elements. I attached the wire to a piece that touches the track 3 times without continuity... the teeth were not reaching deeply enough. I found that if I put a very tiny piece of clipped insulation (with the conductor wire removed) under the wire on the side with the teeth it worked every time. This wire seats very snugly in the space and I didn't encounter any shorts. The 2x2 brick piece was more resilient to prying apart and I got that working pretty consistently. I found it helpful to use a 2mm allen head tip on my driver to press and seat the wire into the 2 by 2 brick. This allen head also served well to press on pieces and spread the pressure more than a flathead would have. I used a rubber band to hold the various wire ends and clips securely to the top of a glass to make it easier to touch the probes of the multimeter to them to test for continuity. I started with my oldest and most decrepit wires so hopefully the next sets i do pop apart a bit easier. Thanks again for helping me bring new life to these wires... additionally I made the cables around 8 feet long so I can mount the box elsewhere in the room, have the power run in from the back, etc... the stock cable is so short I essentially have to sit the transformer box in the city. At some point i want to build some human sized "controls", buttons, and lights around the power box just for fun. I have a bunch of mindstorms wire to replace as well. I got a 50 foot roll of the 6 wire spool you suggested so that's 150 feet to play with :) Thanks again very much for sharing your experimentation because I never would have had the patience to figure it out myself.
Glad to help! Definitely something that comes easier with practice. I've probably done a couple hundred of the 2x2 bricks at this point. I've drawn blood a couple times too, just not on camera 😅. Yeah control panels are always fun, I've got a ton of ideas using them on the back burner but always have something flashy drawing my attention. I'm certainly not the first to do a guide fixing these cables, but tried to be as detailed as possible. Thanks for the comment and best of luck with your projects / builds!
The helpful information and video provided by BatteryPoweredBricks enabled me to acquire the correct wire stock and repair the train wiring. This Lego Train set belonged to our children who are now adults. Now, the set is working like new and is now ready for other little ones to play with. Thank you so much for your help!
Thank you for sharing this video and the recommendation of the wire. I recently purchased an older sealed set that the wires were complete trash. This helped me repair/replace my wires.
Thank you thank you thank you. So glad I found your video while looking to buy a new one. Fished my wire out of the trash and repair was successful. Great recommendation on the wire!
Awesome! Glad the cables were still in the trash and not on the way to the landfill! While third party Power Function connectors can be purchased online, I haven't found anyone selling 9v connectors. Glad to help!
Hello, thank you for the video which is very well explained. I would just like to know where you found to buy the black square piece that you dismantle at 10min30. Thank you so much
As far as I know they can only be sourced from Lego 9v cables, either from the train wire or a Mindstorms / Technic set. I've been looking for a third party that makes them like the Power Functions ones I've found but haven't seen any yet
@@BatteryPoweredBricks Thanks. Yes I looked for parts but couldn't find anything. I found this, would it be suitable if we took it apart to install a cable like the one you recommend? Clevoers câble données Technology Series accessoires compatible avec Lego Bricks 8870 Lights - Interrupteur 8869, Technic Power Functions, 7,87 pouces / 20 cm on amz
@@christinepejoux3971 That's a Power Functions cable end. Even third party I've never seen someone sell 9v connector ends, the only option is buying a used cable on eBay or Bricklink
If I ever find a source I will be shouting it from the mountain tops. The best I've found is bulk lots of cables with bad wiring on eBay. Power Functions connectors can be found on AliExpress but I doubt there is enough of a market to ever make replacement 9v connectors
The main thing is to use wire with soft insulation and make sure the blade contacts are absolutely straight before snapping the connector together. I'm actually editing a new video for making 9v and PF wires and tried to go into more detail on things like that
I use a 2.5mm flat tip screwdriver for the 9v connector. It doesn't have to be exact. I think the tabs on the track contacts are a little smaller, it's been a while since I've made one
Well that's the issue when finding the right replacement wire. While the wire itself is 24 gauge, the insulation can vary in thickness and it needs to be somewhat soft to make sure the blade contacts pierce the wire correctly. Maybe I can find a datasheet with more information. I've heard there is a wire sold on AliExpress that has soft silicon insulation like the wire I use but I haven't tried it myself
There's a discussion in my discord about this, trying to find sources in other countries. I can tell you the conductor wire is about .5mm in diameter so the width of both wires with insulation is about 3mm total. Our discord server is linked on my home page as well as any recent video if you want to join the conversation
What country are you in? I know it's on Amazon in the US and in Canada (although more expensive). If you aren't as concerned about aesthetics there are more options. I've used 24 gauge speaker wire in the past, but it has to have pretty thin insulation.
![LEGO® 9 Volt Kabel für Züge reparieren [Tutorial]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/84tsdwIf-kE/mqdefault.jpg)
I know I asked you about a repair service but I bit the bullet and ordered the wire, AMAZING!!! It works so well to repair these cables. I even moded some cables from old 4" 9v and turned them into 2 footers. FYI you can easily remove the white stripe with a paper towel and Acetone, comes off in like 4 swipes! Thank you so much!
Glad to help, and thanks for the tip! Greatly appreciated!
@@BatteryPoweredBricks can you buy this wire at Lowes or home Depot?
I have absolutely no electrical skills/knowledge at all. But following the instructions in this video, I replaced the contact wires for set 4561 today! I was utterly amazed when I turned on the speed control and it worked! Many thanks to you sir
Thank you for taking the time to comment, I am always glad to hear of Lego 9v trains being brought back to life!
Just used this video to repair the wire for a 9V High Speed Train Set 4559, I remember always wanting back when I played LEGO LOCO as a kid. Found at a secondhand Lego store recently and snatched it up despite the totally shot cable. I used some 22AWG wire I had lying around from my HO model railroad, perhaps a tad large but it worked in the end. Thanks to you, this set is running smoothly again. Excellent tutorial, never lost for a moment.
Awesome! Always glad to hear of a 9v train getting back on track 😁
Thanks. I take my train out once a year to put under the tree. I noticed this year it was not working and found the rubber covering cracking and pealing.
I just got out my kids' Lego 4561 train I bought them in the 90s and the wires are frayed and insulation is disintegrated. Searched for a repair video and your video popped up. Good timing that you post the video a month before I find the train. Thanks for sharing this!!! I may just solder new wire to the controller and the track, but still repair the original connecter later.
Awesome! While I never actually owned any of them, that era of Lego trains is definitely my favorite. I've made my own cables for years but just recently got everything I needed to make a decent guide. Finding the right wire was the biggest issue for me but I can be somewhat of a Lego purist 😅
@@BatteryPoweredBricks I ended up using the wire from an old router power adapter. I drilled a small hole in the back of the Lego controller and fed the wire in and soldered it to the circuit board. I opened up the two track connector blocks and soldered the other ends of the wire to those. I saved the magnet thing and 2x2 controller connector block just in case I decide to go back to the original wiring.
@@SteveCarmichael Whatever's clever! I've done several mods like that over the years, but I'm glad to have found wire that looks just like the original for any builds I do that are on display or would be in a video.
Thanks so much for the video! You helped me save my vintage Lego train set we put under the Christmas tree every year! Much Appreciated!👍
Thanks for the comment! Glad to help put trains under trees!
Wires have been replaced and my Lego Metroliner 4558 works again Thank you so much
Awesome! I've never owned the set but I've always loved it. Glad it's back on the rails!
@@BatteryPoweredBricks do you repair them?
@@smyrna112 I've done a few for friends since I've found a good wire replacement. I'm toying with the idea of offering repairs or selling wires or sets of wire on eBay. I just need to really put some thought into cost and how much time would be invested. Feel free to contact me on Twitter / Instagram or my email is in my TH-cam about page
Hey, just coming back to say thanks! I got my wires all fixed and fresh like new
Awesome! Glad to help!
Thanks for this video! I originally used a liquid electrical tape maybe 4 years ago but it finally failed. This was the correct solution.
I rewired 2 of these train power cables today thanks to your videos. The original wires were a mess, missing the insulation for a full millimeter in several spots, having to set the wire just right to avoid shorts. I watched step by step, would come back and play a snippet of each part before attempting it, listening to the direction you said to push and twist the driver etc, even using the same mm screwdriver you suggested. Wow, the first try was just such a headache to even get all the clips apart (to make things even more frustrating, I started with the "extra credit" first). If I had not seen you pop them apart I might not even think it was possible to flex them open. By the second set I had a better idea of the shape of the clips and wasn't as concerned about scratching up the housing or breaking clips off so that went a little faster. I drew blood several times slipping with the tiny screwdriver and I had to take on and off my glasses depending on which part I was working on. You have steadier hands than I or so much practice handling these tiny elements.
I attached the wire to a piece that touches the track 3 times without continuity... the teeth were not reaching deeply enough. I found that if I put a very tiny piece of clipped insulation (with the conductor wire removed) under the wire on the side with the teeth it worked every time. This wire seats very snugly in the space and I didn't encounter any shorts. The 2x2 brick piece was more resilient to prying apart and I got that working pretty consistently. I found it helpful to use a 2mm allen head tip on my driver to press and seat the wire into the 2 by 2 brick. This allen head also served well to press on pieces and spread the pressure more than a flathead would have. I used a rubber band to hold the various wire ends and clips securely to the top of a glass to make it easier to touch the probes of the multimeter to them to test for continuity. I started with my oldest and most decrepit wires so hopefully the next sets i do pop apart a bit easier.
Thanks again for helping me bring new life to these wires... additionally I made the cables around 8 feet long so I can mount the box elsewhere in the room, have the power run in from the back, etc... the stock cable is so short I essentially have to sit the transformer box in the city. At some point i want to build some human sized "controls", buttons, and lights around the power box just for fun. I have a bunch of mindstorms wire to replace as well. I got a 50 foot roll of the 6 wire spool you suggested so that's 150 feet to play with :) Thanks again very much for sharing your experimentation because I never would have had the patience to figure it out myself.
Glad to help! Definitely something that comes easier with practice. I've probably done a couple hundred of the 2x2 bricks at this point. I've drawn blood a couple times too, just not on camera 😅. Yeah control panels are always fun, I've got a ton of ideas using them on the back burner but always have something flashy drawing my attention. I'm certainly not the first to do a guide fixing these cables, but tried to be as detailed as possible. Thanks for the comment and best of luck with your projects / builds!
Wow, thank You man. U saved my Xmas train =)
I get these comments every Christmas and it never gets old 😁 Glad to help!
The helpful information and video provided by BatteryPoweredBricks enabled me to acquire the correct wire stock and repair the train wiring. This Lego Train set belonged to our children who are now adults. Now, the set is working like new and is now ready for other little ones to play with. Thank you so much for your help!
So glad to help! I never get tired of hearing stories like this. Get those trains back on the track!
Thank you for sharing this video and the recommendation of the wire. I recently purchased an older sealed set that the wires were complete trash. This helped me repair/replace my wires.
Awesome, thanks for commenting! I plan to remake this series of videos soon. I'm so glad they've been helpful to so many 😀
Thank you so much for making this video! Really useful, the perfect tutorial!
This worked like a charm. As a life long fan of Lego: Thank you. 🎉😊
No problem, glad to help 👍
Thank you thank you thank you. So glad I found your video while looking to buy a new one. Fished my wire out of the trash and repair was successful. Great recommendation on the wire!
Awesome! Glad the cables were still in the trash and not on the way to the landfill! While third party Power Function connectors can be purchased online, I haven't found anyone selling 9v connectors. Glad to help!
It worked! Thank you so much!
Sure thing! Glad to help 😀
just got my old trainset from 25 ish years ago for my child. kables are all broken and disintigrated partially, will try this fix next week thank you
I needed this
I did too 😅 I spent MANY years looking for the right replacement wire to use
Hello, thank you for the video which is very well explained. I would just like to know where you found to buy the black square piece that you dismantle at 10min30. Thank you so much
As far as I know they can only be sourced from Lego 9v cables, either from the train wire or a Mindstorms / Technic set. I've been looking for a third party that makes them like the Power Functions ones I've found but haven't seen any yet
@@BatteryPoweredBricks Thanks. Yes I looked for parts but couldn't find anything. I found this, would it be suitable if we took it apart to install a cable like the one you recommend? Clevoers câble données Technology Series accessoires compatible avec Lego Bricks 8870 Lights - Interrupteur 8869, Technic Power Functions, 7,87 pouces / 20 cm on amz
@@christinepejoux3971 That's a Power Functions cable end. Even third party I've never seen someone sell 9v connector ends, the only option is buying a used cable on eBay or Bricklink
WHERE CAN YOU BUY JUST THE 4 KNOB PLATE TO CONNECT THE WIRE TO I HAVE LEGO 8480 AND NEED NEW WIRING/THANKS
If I ever find a source I will be shouting it from the mountain tops. The best I've found is bulk lots of cables with bad wiring on eBay. Power Functions connectors can be found on AliExpress but I doubt there is enough of a market to ever make replacement 9v connectors
@@BatteryPoweredBricks thanks
Do you have any additional tips for the 2x2 brink i either get one side with power or a short
The main thing is to use wire with soft insulation and make sure the blade contacts are absolutely straight before snapping the connector together. I'm actually editing a new video for making 9v and PF wires and tried to go into more detail on things like that
Hey there have you done any work on the 9v train motors?
Not yet. I've never had an issue with one.
i wish you could fix my train. which screw drivers do you need for this
I use a 2.5mm flat tip screwdriver for the 9v connector. It doesn't have to be exact. I think the tabs on the track contacts are a little smaller, it's been a while since I've made one
What is the size of the wire if you measure it with a measuring tape ?i cant find the wright wire here in the netherlands
Well that's the issue when finding the right replacement wire. While the wire itself is 24 gauge, the insulation can vary in thickness and it needs to be somewhat soft to make sure the blade contacts pierce the wire correctly. Maybe I can find a datasheet with more information. I've heard there is a wire sold on AliExpress that has soft silicon insulation like the wire I use but I haven't tried it myself
@@BatteryPoweredBricks if you can provide more information about it that would be great
There's a discussion in my discord about this, trying to find sources in other countries. I can tell you the conductor wire is about .5mm in diameter so the width of both wires with insulation is about 3mm total. Our discord server is linked on my home page as well as any recent video if you want to join the conversation
Great video but I'm having trouble find that Bntechgo wire
What country are you in? I know it's on Amazon in the US and in Canada (although more expensive). If you aren't as concerned about aesthetics there are more options. I've used 24 gauge speaker wire in the past, but it has to have pretty thin insulation.
Also I goofed and didn't link where I got the wire in the description. Just added it
@@BatteryPoweredBricks Richmond Va, I bought the BTTECHGO Ultra flexible silicone tinned copper wire and replaced the old wire.
I had a cable sealed in the bag and the wiring is exposed.
guess this stuff doesn't last
Yeah I have a sensor new in package that is degrading. Any cables with the rubber insulation will go at some point
AWESOME Video. Time to cut the fingernails
😂
Just found mine disintegrating
You are in good company in this comment section
@@BatteryPoweredBricks just finished my repair with a scrap dc inverter cord I had, good info and details though thanks again!