I Bought a 94 F-150 XLT 4 wheel drive with the 5.0 and E4OD transmission. In the 3 years that I've owned it It has had a hard start problem after it warms up. So far, I have replaced the mass air flow sensor, Yes its a OBD 1 system with Mass air flow, replaced the throttle position sensor, distributor, ignition module, distributor cap-rotor, ignition wires, spark plugs, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump, and finally the PCM. Most of the time it starts fine now 9 times out of 10. Also had erratic transmission shifts and speedo jumped all over the place. Replaced differential speed sensor, no fix. Replaced tone ring and it helped some, but finally had to send the PSOM speedo off to be rebuilt. It finally starts and shift good again. Had to get new door panels because the original ones basically were crumbling apart. Kept breaking door handles. The bracket the handle bolted to had cracked so I bought a repair kit that riveted over the original. Replaced the cable to the door latch, but ended ended up replacing the latch assembly also before it all was fixed. The braided fuel line between the fuel filter and the fuel pressure regulator developed a leak and was dripping gas onto the exhaust Y pipe. Apparently several have burned up because of this. The only replacement was from Ford at $350 and they told me they don't make them any longer. So when the ones on the shelf are gone, that's it. ABS light blinks all the time. Replaced clock spring with no fix. Ford said its either a front crash sensor or a sensor in the airbag, which neither are made anymore. So its get a used one from a salvage yard or put tape over the ABS light. I love the truck overall and hopefully have most of the bugs fixed but I think Id been money ahead to have bought an 86 or older model.
I JUST GOT ONE{exact truck} is there a checklist u can give me and most importantly what type of oil and coolant does it take im a chevy guy so anything helps
@@mikeverything4098 As far as oil, I run 5W-30. Ford came out with a service bulletin since then stating 5w-20 is now recommended, but that seems to thin for me. It’s a roller cam motor. I personally run synthetic but a good quality non synthetic oil like Castrol GTX or whatever you like is fine. I just use the green antifreeze like Prestone at a 50/50 mix. As far as a checklist, it’s not really any different than a Chevy, just check the belt, hoses, and any major leaks. Mine has a few oil dribbles here and there but I can live with that since it’s an old truck
I have had none of these issues with my 94 F150 XLT. But I bought it new and haven't had it worked on by multiple jackleg mechanics. I also had the Zbart rust inhibiter done a week after purchase. The body has ZERO rust and I live in Illinois. Boys the key is "Preventive Maintenance" and forgetting your driving 25-30yr old trucks, most purchased used, and most didn't get any attention until something went south and caused it to be un-driveable. We see an abundance of these trucks on the road today, more thay Chevys... why is that? 😀
last year I bought a 97 f250 HD 5.8 with 205k on it for $3,900. It had a little rust and the brake lines were rotted through but it had nothing done to it so everything was factory. I put new brake lines and brake hardware on it and replaced a few radiator hoses and it was a runnin truck. I drive it about 100 miles one way twice a week to my college and back so I've of course had a few small issues come up but it has never left me stranded. After doing some research I'd say the last three years of this body style were probably the best mechanically speaking even though they are practically the same truck as the 87-94 trucks. In 1994, Ford modified the 351 and maybe the 302 by adding roller lifters to it so it could last a little longer than just a flat tappet style would... that's if you do your oil changes every 4,500 to 5,000 miles. I've done some slight modifications to my truck since I got it but nothing mechanically and everything that has needed to be replaced, I've just used motorcraft or factory variant parts. The truck right now has 216,800 miles on it, it runs great, and gets roughly around 12-16 mpg. Also, DONT USE 5w-20 or 5w-30 oil in these trucks. I use 10w-30 Castrol GTX high mileage and it maintains a high oil pressure easily hot or cold.
No matter what kind of problems it has or could have, my 1994 f250 5.8l with a e4od transmission is in my blood and will drive it until it is undriveable or I am undriveable. I think I will wear out first.
i have my grandfathers 1988 f250 5.8L super cab long bed manual trans he bought new in 1988. i have done the 130 amp alternator and the e350 power steering saginaw upgrade and moved the ignition module over to the drivers fender like the 92`s did. one thing to do with the starter solenoid is make a ground wire from the mounting plate of the solenoid to the negative battery cable. mine would short out and keep the starter running until you pull the negative battery cable off or burn up the positive battery cable. i put a disconnect switch on the negative cable at the battery. its a life saver i tell ya. the rear anti lock brake unit on the frame is a real pain in the ass. just touching one in the box could / can mess up the solenoids in them. wear gloves. . they get vacuum leaks all the time. make you a smoke machine. its worth it. the evap check valves on top of the fuel tanks and the rubber grommets they use are a pain as well. also there is a diode in one of the 3 wires that go to the idle air control valve on the 1987-1989. just get a mini bladed fuse holder and solder it in place and go to salvage yard and look for early 90`s cars and pull the small mini black fuse looking diode from relay box under the hood. you will thank me for it later. there is a messed up resistor block in the wiring harness between the distributor and the coil and the tach in the guages. get new ones if they are bad and DONT put them or the iac diode in backwards. it will ruin your day. trust me. also like you said from 1986 to 1994 the cars , trucks and vans all use the same MAP SENSOR i have had nothing but problems with the after market ones from the part stores. when they go out i get 66 miles to half a tank so i know its bad. also do the fuel injector up grade to the EV6 injectors. fuel millage goes up a bit. dont use E3 DIAMOND FIRE PLUGS IN THESE TRUCKS!!! you can if you want but they dont work to good in my truck. i just use auto lite #24 plugs. they seem to work best in my truck. also if you block off the egr valve it will eat more gas . ask me how i know ( LOL) it will run rich. oh yeah. on the manual transmission trucks there is a switch on the clutch rod that goes to the clutch master cylinder under the dash. those dont last too long it seems and also the nylon bushing that locks that clutch rod to the clutch pedal gets eaten up alot. carry spairs.. back in the day these trucks were hard to beat but now . im suprised im not bald from pulling all my hair out i tell ya. these trucks can and will drive you totally nuts. good luck guys!!!!
I’ve had the fuel pump seal problem, mass air flow went out, my e4OD has had a few problems but is still holding up, My shock towers rusted out when I first got it, fixed that 5 years ago. Broke my headlight knob twice LOL, the clip in there SUCKS!! I replaced all my dash light bulbs cause a few were dim and some were burned out. I’ve had the passenger hood hinge replaced years ago too bent my hood up!! My Eve usually needs cleaned in the winter every year idk why but the check engine light says insufficient flow code I clean the her and it goes out. I’ve chopped a few of those upper radiator hoses too LOL!
I was driving my 1996 f-150, I drove over some rail road tracks and my truck just shut off. It would turn over, but wouldn't start I replaced the battery, the voltage regulator and the plug to the coil. Nothing. I finally replaced the ( ICM ) Ignition control module. The truck started right up one the first try.
Jesus. I think I'll hold on to my 88 a little longer. Was considering one of these when I had to have the transmission rebuilt because my 88 is a standard cab and someone has a super cab for sale.
wow, makes my 92 5.0 sound good! btw the 92 had it's own variety of problems, some of which I'm still working on to overcome! but at least it's not in a junkyard!
The 90’s F150’s have M5od transmissions, 2-350’s have ZF5’s. Which are both 4spd w/ OD. The new edge super duty’s (unless they’re auto) have ZF6’s, which is a 4spd. W/OD + low. Very similar to a 13/18 spd. Pattern. Which is just a 4 spd. Pattern really anyway.
What’s up guys, I just bought a 94 f150 5.0 v8. Only problem I’m having is it shifts hard from 1st gear to 2nd. Guy I bought it from suggested replacing the throttle position sensor or vehicle speed sensor? Anyone else experience this? Any feedback is appreciated! Thanks fellas
Brother do you think a 1992 F250 5.8 v8 manual transmission with 170k miles for 3900$ is a good deal? Are they reliable, the truck looks in great condition the fan is kinda loud but sounds good
5.8 is the lowest motor option for a 92 f250. Manual will hold up just fine if it isn't a m50d. The Windsor motor is plenty reliable with a few quirks. But in a 5.8 f250 don't expect to be towing what 7.3s or 460s are towing. It's basically just an f150 with more lugnuts and springs. Pretty much a heavy half in sense. The price is a bit high for the options compared to my area. I'd offer 3k tp start. You're not gonna be able to get it under 3 unless you just offer 1500. Be honest with yourself, It's a 92 with the small gas motor and 170k miles. 92 isn't the most desirable year and that's not the most desirable options
I have a 1993 f150 XL with a E4OD trans that pulls in and out of first gear I have checked the shit solenoid it’s good but what else could cause this to happen transmissions are not my strong suit to work on someone that has some transmission knowledge let me know what causes this problem besides the transmission shift solenoid and how I can fix it
That's normal to have a cold start. Diesels have block heaters for that exact reason. As for the reading low, check your thermostat to see if it's opening all the way.
My 94 f150 had the missing handle on the passenger side and the hood has gotten stuck before and my shifter broke off and the peice the shifter goes into broke
LMAO @06:53---this is official initiation material right there, brother: if some random guy tries to sneak into our Ford OBS club, first quiz him on what is the issue with the door/ getting out, to see if he knows his stuff. If he doesn't know, shoot him, cuz he's an alien, that's no human. Every human man (or lady) who's had one of these trucks knows about that infamous damn inner driver's door handle snapping off, that is TOO funny how you highlighted that, lol! I have a replacement lever that uses an industrial bolt, welded onto the base, haha.
There's a hundred things it could be. Vacuum lines, fuel return lines, FPR, spark not getting to a cylinder or going to the wrong cylinder, cam sensor, timing. Bad injectors, bad fuel. Run some seafoam through it, change your vacuum lines to rubber, clean your throttle body, adjust your timing, clean your plugs and or change em with wires. Clean your dist cap. Let me know
Thats only because idiots grab it and slam it around thinking its gonna last forever. It ain't gonna last if you dont take care of it and treat it like a ragdoll
I've never had an issue out of an E4OD mine was 5 qts low had about 1k miles put on it like that from a trans pan seal being bad and it still went right in gear and I filled it back up shifts really smooth no slipping or popping out of gear
Great video. Thanks for sharing. I might buy a 1994 F150 auto with the 302 V8 with 130,000 miles. Would you recommend changing the trans fluid and filter? Trans is shifting good at this time.
Is it true that the right rear differential sensor going bad would make your speedometer jump all over the place and your abs and break light come on periodically with rough shifting
Yes the sensor on top of the diff will make it bounce. Rough shifting could be a shift kit has been installed or you're low on fluid. But e40ds weren't known for smooth shifting. They were put in medium duty trucks as well so if youre feeling your shifts thats just fine. Abs and brake light could be like 1 of 3 things tbh.
@@TheReal8deal depends on if he ran it long enough at high enough idle. I know when I bought my 00 Protege I put seafoam in the tank and it did the same thing pretty instantly.
First thing I did on my 97 351 was ran seafoam through until it quit smoking, which took 3 cans in a row . Looked like a forest fire but it purrs like a kitten. Watch the Ford ranger yard truck seafoam video. A drastic change in the way it runs and he did a follow up a year later and it still runs way better. One thing it didn’t do was hurt anything so why not try it
I got a 94 and 96 both with 5.0s both have the 4r70w transmissions the 94 is still running on the same trans so is the 96 i haven't touched the fluid in the 94 in the 20 years I have owned it and it moves and shifts fine fluid is just as red as it was 20 years ago also the 94 5.0 5.8 never got the e4od it was the 4r70w are the aode the trucks with the 4.9 got the e4od from 93 to 96
All motors had those options. E40d was 92-97. It later was replaced by whats in the explorer. The f150s had multiple options A0d (80-14) E40d (92-97) 4r70w (95 - 03) T18(65-91) M50DR2 (88-08)
I just bought a 94 F150 with the 5.0, I would do a cold start on it and it would make a knocking noise coming from the transmission from what it sounds like. I've been told it could be the torque converter, the flex plate, etc. Well I was driving it one day and it started to make a loud popping sound and in the middle of the road it just cut off on me and wouldn't start back. This truck had an obd1 connection for a code reader so I had it towed to a shop. If it's a transmission issue would getting a transmission from a 95 or 96 be a good idea or should I just let the shop repair what ever was wrong with it?
They're usually good trucks. This this video is just to explain some things that you might find when looking for one of these trucks and kind of what to look out for.
Of course you can move a clutch fan back and forth that is normal. As far as plastic goes and this pertains to all makes and models. Do not apply any silicone based products on those items. Nearly all of these so called products that are sold break down PVC plastic. They claim to protect it, that is a lie. Lemon pledge is a wax and it will work. Any Alkaline soap will also break down plastic. Definitely do not use an Alkaline soap on seat belts. Tire dressing is fine for rubber but when it gets on the plastic retainers those become brittle as well.
no wonder why the E4OD transmissons goes out cuz that line that was plugged up by a bolt on your throttle body is to recirculate coolant through it and pass your transmission cooler in the radiator to keep it cool
Well mine didn't go out. Don't see how throttle body cooling can make a e4od grenade itself. But it was proven that that line was as useless as a gps tracker on a boulder.
my 95' Ford 5.0 302 is stalling randomly when driving, and sometimes it wont start but cranks forever, and then randomly starts and runs for 15 minutes before dying. Is this mass air flow, EGR, purge valve or other issue?
Start with something simple. Turn the key on listen for the the fuel pump. My 91 had an issue like this. Track down the wiring for the fuel pump relay. If you turn the key with the relay in and it does a very short prime and not a 4 to 5 sec prime, take the relay out and jump the connections. If you hear yhe pump run constantly its your relay. If it does nothing its your pump.
@@chrisyoung2188 I haven’t. I’ve replaced ignition module, coil, PCV valve. I can’t get a clear idea of why other than maybe the computer has went out in it? Let me know if you make any progress
I need help please with my 94 ford f150 5.0 okay the gas was overflowing into the other gas tank so we took that gas tank out I replaced the fuel pump the fuel filter in the other tank put a new seal in it and it's doing the same thing I start it up drive about a block and it wants to sputter and die like it's running out of gas and it starts right back up every time and then it'll do that again please I need some help with that anybody have any idea what's wrong with it.. thank you
Try the selector valve. It could be stuck or malfunctioning open. It's right under the driver door before the fender. What it could be doing is allowing fuel to come through and back just wide open. Those have to be operating right to make sure fuel comes out of the right tank and goes back in the right tank.
@@GCF-Media I believe when the person that took my other tank out that he also took the selector valve out to .can you do that if you just have one tank now and thank you
@@GCF-Media thank you again I'm learning a little at a time and maybe soon with the help of the people on here I will figure it out well should I say you people will figure it out for me.. what to do next I have no clue .I appreciate it
I've always been curious everybody says how many problems these trucks have but yet you see thousands and thousands of them on the road every single day summer still bone-stock factory what you hundred thousand or more miles so if they have this many problems why are people buying them
Why would you delete the hoses going to your heater core? 😆 Don't need any of that fancy cab heat or defrost? You already took away a perfectly good A/C system, so no cool temps in the summer... so who needs heat as well? By the time you're done, it'll be a covered wagon. Oregon Trail style!
Don't have the truck anymore. Took the lines out (now this was my mind at the time) to put less strain on the motor and keep more of the engine cool. Took the AC out because 1 it leaked and 2 for mpg increase/less stress on the motor and 3 because it had smoker windows. After all the "mods" and deleting I did I did a 100+ mile trip on 22mpg in this truck, that's back roads and interstate.
Bitch to get to and a whole 1.99$ but from what I’ve heard it is still working if you shake it and it still rattles. You can do that without removing it as well.
@@thangamajig nah. It takes the games created by your motor and returns them to your motor to be burned again. You can find lawnmowers 60 years old with them.
Dude if the damn 94 truck is still running why complain dude its old i have a 94 and didn't have any of this shit you're saying wrong with it and I'm still driving it as of today
He’s also right about all these issues being common. Plus who was bitching? He just pointed out what most obs owners already know or gonna find out. lol loved when he said you’re gonna need ya a door handle one day, that’s real talk!
I have one also 278,000 miles still runs well and some small crap is happening but nothing major… just drives well and I will put 200k more on it door handle is fine even with the cracked plastic
Yep. 90s trucks are terrible. Chevy with terrible transmissions, doors not closing, wiring problems, fuel pumps, dodges with terrible transmissions and interiors, ford with terrible transmissions. All with gutless iron block pushrod v8s that make maybe 20hp over their smaller counterparts. 🤷♂️
@@jonbovideadoralive looking at a list here... an 83 c10 has basic "nonsense" sensors... oil pressure I presume, coolant temp, knock sensor (let's be honest if it ain't 15 years young that sensor ain't gon tell ya something happened or if you hit a pothole it'll light your dash up), MAP sensor, throttle position sensor, the basics. All which were basic sensors in 90s trucks until 95/96 when MAF came in.
@@GCF-Media 350 4 barrell. Oil temp volt gage, fuel.few vacuum lines...simple...if you fart wrong in some those ford trucks it'll start running shittier....😄
I love how he stopped talking everytime a truck drove by then made a comment about it.
Dude really loves this way of life.
I never noticed that! Thought it was always my adhd
I Bought a 94 F-150 XLT 4 wheel drive with the 5.0 and E4OD transmission. In the 3 years that I've owned it It has had a hard start problem after it warms up. So far, I have replaced the mass air flow sensor, Yes its a OBD 1 system with Mass air flow, replaced the throttle position sensor, distributor, ignition module, distributor cap-rotor, ignition wires, spark plugs, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump, and finally the PCM. Most of the time it starts fine now 9 times out of 10. Also had erratic transmission shifts and speedo jumped all over the place. Replaced differential speed sensor, no fix. Replaced tone ring and it helped some, but finally had to send the PSOM speedo off to be rebuilt. It finally starts and shift good again. Had to get new door panels because the original ones basically were crumbling apart. Kept breaking door handles. The bracket the handle bolted to had cracked so I bought a repair kit that riveted over the original. Replaced the cable to the door latch, but ended ended up replacing the latch assembly also before it all was fixed. The braided fuel line between the fuel filter and the fuel pressure regulator developed a leak and was dripping gas onto the exhaust Y pipe. Apparently several have burned up because of this. The only replacement was from Ford at $350 and they told me they don't make them any longer. So when the ones on the shelf are gone, that's it. ABS light blinks all the time. Replaced clock spring with no fix. Ford said its either a front crash sensor or a sensor in the airbag, which neither are made anymore. So its get a used one from a salvage yard or put tape over the ABS light. I love the truck overall and hopefully have most of the bugs fixed but I think Id been money ahead to have bought an 86 or older model.
I think u just explained my 94 f250 to me lol
I’m glad I found this comment.
I JUST GOT ONE{exact truck} is there a checklist u can give me and most importantly what type of oil and coolant does it take im a chevy guy so anything helps
@@mikeverything4098 As far as oil, I run 5W-30. Ford came out with a service bulletin since then stating 5w-20 is now recommended, but that seems to thin for me. It’s a roller cam motor. I personally run synthetic but a good quality non synthetic oil like Castrol GTX or whatever you like is fine. I just use the green antifreeze like Prestone at a 50/50 mix.
As far as a checklist, it’s not really any different than a Chevy, just check the belt, hoses, and any major leaks. Mine has a few oil dribbles here and there but I can live with that since it’s an old truck
Jezoos cristo sir why do we do the things we do
I have had none of these issues with my 94 F150 XLT.
But I bought it new and haven't had it worked on by multiple jackleg mechanics.
I also had the Zbart rust inhibiter done a week after purchase. The body has ZERO rust and I live in Illinois.
Boys the key is "Preventive Maintenance" and forgetting your driving 25-30yr old trucks, most purchased used, and most didn't get any attention until something went south and caused it to be un-driveable. We see an abundance of these trucks on the road today, more thay Chevys... why is that? 😀
last year I bought a 97 f250 HD 5.8 with 205k on it for $3,900. It had a little rust and the brake lines were rotted through but it had nothing done to it so everything was factory. I put new brake lines and brake hardware on it and replaced a few radiator hoses and it was a runnin truck. I drive it about 100 miles one way twice a week to my college and back so I've of course had a few small issues come up but it has never left me stranded. After doing some research I'd say the last three years of this body style were probably the best mechanically speaking even though they are practically the same truck as the 87-94 trucks. In 1994, Ford modified the 351 and maybe the 302 by adding roller lifters to it so it could last a little longer than just a flat tappet style would... that's if you do your oil changes every 4,500 to 5,000 miles. I've done some slight modifications to my truck since I got it but nothing mechanically and everything that has needed to be replaced, I've just used motorcraft or factory variant parts. The truck right now has 216,800 miles on it, it runs great, and gets roughly around 12-16 mpg. Also, DONT USE 5w-20 or 5w-30 oil in these trucks. I use 10w-30 Castrol GTX high mileage and it maintains a high oil pressure easily hot or cold.
No matter what kind of problems it has or could have, my 1994 f250 5.8l with a e4od transmission is in my blood and will drive it until it is undriveable or I am undriveable. I think I will wear out first.
Thanks for the video. I have had nearly every issue you laid out here with my 94. Still like the truck tho🤷
“That sounds like 💩” that’s what I said when I heard that old fart running.🤣
I think the only thing you didn't name as having issues is the air in the tires
i have my grandfathers 1988 f250 5.8L super cab long bed manual trans he bought new in 1988. i have done the 130 amp alternator and the e350 power steering saginaw upgrade and moved the ignition module over to the drivers fender like the 92`s did. one thing to do with the starter solenoid is make a ground wire from the mounting plate of the solenoid to the negative battery cable. mine would short out and keep the starter running until you pull the negative battery cable off or burn up the positive battery cable. i put a disconnect switch on the negative cable at the battery. its a life saver i tell ya. the rear anti lock brake unit on the frame is a real pain in the ass. just touching one in the box could / can mess up the solenoids in them. wear gloves. . they get vacuum leaks all the time. make you a smoke machine. its worth it. the evap check valves on top of the fuel tanks and the rubber grommets they use are a pain as well. also there is a diode in one of the 3 wires that go to the idle air control valve on the 1987-1989. just get a mini bladed fuse holder and solder it in place and go to salvage yard and look for early 90`s cars and pull the small mini black fuse looking diode from relay box under the hood. you will thank me for it later. there is a messed up resistor block in the wiring harness between the distributor and the coil and the tach in the guages. get new ones if they are bad and DONT put them or the iac diode in backwards. it will ruin your day. trust me. also like you said from 1986 to 1994 the cars , trucks and vans all use the same MAP SENSOR i have had nothing but problems with the after market ones from the part stores. when they go out i get 66 miles to half a tank so i know its bad. also do the fuel injector up grade to the EV6 injectors. fuel millage goes up a bit. dont use E3 DIAMOND FIRE PLUGS IN THESE TRUCKS!!! you can if you want but they dont work to good in my truck. i just use auto lite #24 plugs. they seem to work best in my truck. also if you block off the egr valve it will eat more gas . ask me how i know ( LOL) it will run rich. oh yeah. on the manual transmission trucks there is a switch on the clutch rod that goes to the clutch master cylinder under the dash. those dont last too long it seems and also the nylon bushing that locks that clutch rod to the clutch pedal gets eaten up alot. carry spairs.. back in the day these trucks were hard to beat but now . im suprised im not bald from pulling all my hair out i tell ya. these trucks can and will drive you totally nuts. good luck guys!!!!
I’ve had the fuel pump seal problem, mass air flow went out, my e4OD has had a few problems but is still holding up, My shock towers rusted out when I first got it, fixed that 5 years ago. Broke my headlight knob twice LOL, the clip in there SUCKS!! I replaced all my dash light bulbs cause a few were dim and some were burned out. I’ve had the passenger hood hinge replaced years ago too bent my hood up!! My Eve usually needs cleaned in the winter every year idk why but the check engine light says insufficient flow code I clean the her and it goes out. I’ve chopped a few of those upper radiator hoses too LOL!
I was driving my 1996 f-150, I drove over some rail road tracks and my truck just shut off. It would turn over, but wouldn't start I replaced the battery, the voltage regulator and the plug to the coil. Nothing. I finally replaced the ( ICM ) Ignition control module. The truck started right up one the first try.
Jesus. I think I'll hold on to my 88 a little longer. Was considering one of these when I had to have the transmission rebuilt because my 88 is a standard cab and someone has a super cab for sale.
There not all the same 92 and 93 you could get an AOD and 94 95 96 you could get the 4r70w which my dad has 254k on his 95 with a 302
wow, makes my 92 5.0 sound good! btw the 92 had it's own variety of problems, some of which I'm still working on to overcome! but at least it's not in a junkyard!
Haven't had any of these issues with my 92, 94, or my 95.
Not every single one is gonna have these problems. It's just common
The 90’s F150’s have M5od transmissions, 2-350’s have ZF5’s. Which are both 4spd w/ OD. The new edge super duty’s (unless they’re auto) have ZF6’s, which is a 4spd. W/OD + low. Very similar to a 13/18 spd. Pattern. Which is just a 4 spd. Pattern really anyway.
While that is true the automatic in the f-150s were e4ods while f250s had automatic e4odhds.
I fixed the light turning off issue by changing the switch
Sounds like you got a Monday morning special...lol...
I too have a Mark 3 F-150 does yours have the beer cooler in the front console
Yep
The window switch is pulling out because it's not screwed in.
What’s up guys, I just bought a 94 f150 5.0 v8. Only problem I’m having is it shifts hard from 1st gear to 2nd. Guy I bought it from suggested replacing the throttle position sensor or vehicle speed sensor? Anyone else experience this? Any feedback is appreciated! Thanks fellas
Brother do you think a 1992 F250 5.8 v8 manual transmission with 170k miles for 3900$ is a good deal? Are they reliable, the truck looks in great condition the fan is kinda loud but sounds good
5.8 is the lowest motor option for a 92 f250. Manual will hold up just fine if it isn't a m50d.
The Windsor motor is plenty reliable with a few quirks. But in a 5.8 f250 don't expect to be towing what 7.3s or 460s are towing. It's basically just an f150 with more lugnuts and springs. Pretty much a heavy half in sense.
The price is a bit high for the options compared to my area. I'd offer 3k tp start. You're not gonna be able to get it under 3 unless you just offer 1500.
Be honest with yourself, It's a 92 with the small gas motor and 170k miles. 92 isn't the most desirable year and that's not the most desirable options
I have a 1993 f150 XL with a E4OD trans that pulls in and out of first gear I have checked the shit solenoid it’s good but what else could cause this to happen transmissions are not my strong suit to work on someone that has some transmission knowledge let me know what causes this problem besides the transmission shift solenoid and how I can fix it
I have an idea but let me look into it. Been a short minute since I last dealt with these trucks. I'll get back to ya
I have a 94 5.0 and it is hard to start when it is below 40 degrees Fahrenheit also coolant gaga seem a clike it reads low
That's normal to have a cold start. Diesels have block heaters for that exact reason.
As for the reading low, check your thermostat to see if it's opening all the way.
@@GCF-Media dawg korngrats
My 94 f150 had the missing handle on the passenger side and the hood has gotten stuck before and my shifter broke off and the peice the shifter goes into broke
Does the 89 egr throw a check engine light or no?
Shouldn't.
LMAO @06:53---this is official initiation material right there, brother: if some random guy tries to sneak into our Ford OBS club, first quiz him on what is the issue with the door/ getting out, to see if he knows his stuff. If he doesn't know, shoot him, cuz he's an alien, that's no human. Every human man (or lady) who's had one of these trucks knows about that infamous damn inner driver's door handle snapping off, that is TOO funny how you highlighted that, lol! I have a replacement lever that uses an industrial bolt, welded onto the base, haha.
Mine is blowing black smoke really rich smell any idea what it could be
There's a hundred things it could be. Vacuum lines, fuel return lines, FPR, spark not getting to a cylinder or going to the wrong cylinder, cam sensor, timing. Bad injectors, bad fuel. Run some seafoam through it, change your vacuum lines to rubber, clean your throttle body, adjust your timing, clean your plugs and or change em with wires. Clean your dist cap. Let me know
And gear shifter tube...👍🏾
Thats only because idiots grab it and slam it around thinking its gonna last forever. It ain't gonna last if you dont take care of it and treat it like a ragdoll
I've never had an issue out of an E4OD mine was 5 qts low had about 1k miles put on it like that from a trans pan seal being bad and it still went right in gear and I filled it back up shifts really smooth no slipping or popping out of gear
Not all of em are gonna have the same problems or have these problems.
@@GCF-Media im aware of that and wasn't trying to say you were wrong or anything like that
Great video. Thanks for sharing. I might buy a 1994 F150 auto with the 302 V8 with 130,000 miles. Would you recommend changing the trans fluid and filter? Trans is shifting good at this time.
What color is the fluid
Dont mess with the filter the filter will come off and you will be only going In reverse
Is it true that the right rear differential sensor going bad would make your speedometer jump all over the place and your abs and break light come on periodically with rough shifting
Yes the sensor on top of the diff will make it bounce.
Rough shifting could be a shift kit has been installed or you're low on fluid. But e40ds weren't known for smooth shifting. They were put in medium duty trucks as well so if youre feeling your shifts thats just fine.
Abs and brake light could be like 1 of 3 things tbh.
Right on man thankyou very much
The VSS sensor on the rear differential can give you hard shifting. Also make sure your PSOM is calibrated to your tire size.
The abs and brake light could be the abs pump that's what's wrong with mine
Yes
My clock spring is the only problem on my 95 I have the 4r70w trans mission 319,000 miles original motor,trans and rear end
Why are you wanting to delete your heater core hose is core leaking or u live. In FL
everything, anything can "go out". sir.
Can anyone back what he said about getting the seafoam in the intake up?
Qny older mechanic can. Plus there's hundreds of videos of it on YT. It doesn't do much except make your truck smoke for half an hour.
@@GCF-Media I just tried it today. Didnt get alot of smoke out but hey, peace of mind I suppose. My 95 only has 118k miles haha
@@Alphawolf2325 didnt get smoke out? then something isnt right your truck obviously didnt burn it or something.
@@TheReal8deal depends on if he ran it long enough at high enough idle. I know when I bought my 00 Protege I put seafoam in the tank and it did the same thing pretty instantly.
First thing I did on my 97 351 was ran seafoam through until it quit smoking, which took 3 cans in a row . Looked like a forest fire but it purrs like a kitten. Watch the Ford ranger yard truck seafoam video. A drastic change in the way it runs and he did a follow up a year later and it still runs way better. One thing it didn’t do was hurt anything so why not try it
I got a 94 and 96 both with 5.0s both have the 4r70w transmissions the 94 is still running on the same trans so is the 96 i haven't touched the fluid in the 94 in the 20 years I have owned it and it moves and shifts fine fluid is just as red as it was 20 years ago also the 94 5.0 5.8 never got the e4od it was the 4r70w are the aode the trucks with the 4.9 got the e4od from 93 to 96
All motors had those options. E40d was 92-97. It later was replaced by whats in the explorer.
The f150s had multiple options
A0d (80-14)
E40d (92-97)
4r70w (95 - 03)
T18(65-91)
M50DR2 (88-08)
Only 4x4 F150s had the E4OD.
@@mrodrick19 no they didn't. My 94 was a 2wd with the e4OD
@@mrodrick19 my 92 f250 5.8 2wd has the e40d
I just bought a 94 F150 with the 5.0, I would do a cold start on it and it would make a knocking noise coming from the transmission from what it sounds like. I've been told it could be the torque converter, the flex plate, etc. Well I was driving it one day and it started to make a loud popping sound and in the middle of the road it just cut off on me and wouldn't start back. This truck had an obd1 connection for a code reader so I had it towed to a shop. If it's a transmission issue would getting a transmission from a 95 or 96 be a good idea or should I just let the shop repair what ever was wrong with it?
I would look more into it. could be anything. Rock in the bell housing, a gear going out, chipped drive plate, could have a knock on a back cylinder.
Hey man just got back from the shop today and the engine is shot. Got another 5.0 from the junk yard and going to do a rebuild on it.
@@hunterfoster1714 knocking cylinder on the back?
@@GCF-Media the cam shaft broke in half
@@hunterfoster1714 oof
What was the part number to the belt you used ??
I went through many. 920k6 then when I got to 825k6 it was a bitch to get on
1997 was not an OBS for the F150's... it was still OBS for F250's and bigger
Mannn this video and comments discourage me from even getting one 🤣
They're usually good trucks. This this video is just to explain some things that you might find when looking for one of these trucks and kind of what to look out for.
Dude why don’t you wanna spend all your money and time on a truck that’s always broke
Hey guys - how do you fix the heat coolant temperature gauge??
Find the corresponding wrench and wrench it off. Replace it
Of course you can move a clutch fan back and forth that is normal.
As far as plastic goes and this pertains to all makes and models. Do not apply any silicone based products on those items. Nearly all of these so called products that are sold break down PVC plastic. They claim to protect it, that is a lie. Lemon pledge is a wax and it will work. Any Alkaline soap will also break down plastic. Definitely do not use an Alkaline soap on seat belts. Tire dressing is fine for rubber but when it gets on the plastic retainers those become brittle as well.
no wonder why the E4OD transmissons goes out cuz that line that was plugged up by a bolt on your throttle body is to recirculate coolant through it and pass your transmission cooler in the radiator to keep it cool
Well mine didn't go out. Don't see how throttle body cooling can make a e4od grenade itself. But it was proven that that line was as useless as a gps tracker on a boulder.
my 95' Ford 5.0 302 is stalling randomly when driving, and sometimes it wont start but cranks forever, and then randomly starts and runs for 15 minutes before dying. Is this mass air flow, EGR, purge valve or other issue?
Start with something simple. Turn the key on listen for the the fuel pump. My 91 had an issue like this. Track down the wiring for the fuel pump relay. If you turn the key with the relay in and it does a very short prime and not a 4 to 5 sec prime, take the relay out and jump the connections. If you hear yhe pump run constantly its your relay. If it does nothing its your pump.
My 95 5.0 is ruff idle cant seem to figure out
@@kyote3272 could be one of 100 things. Start with cleaning your iacv and throttle body. Then do a tune up. Plugs Wires cap and rotor.
You ever figur it out mines doin the same thing
@@chrisyoung2188 I haven’t. I’ve replaced ignition module, coil, PCV valve. I can’t get a clear idea of why other than maybe the computer has went out in it? Let me know if you make any progress
Hey,, MARK 111.. Special.
I need help please with my 94 ford f150 5.0 okay the gas was overflowing into the other gas tank so we took that gas tank out I replaced the fuel pump the fuel filter in the other tank put a new seal in it and it's doing the same thing I start it up drive about a block and it wants to sputter and die like it's running out of gas and it starts right back up every time and then it'll do that again please I need some help with that anybody have any idea what's wrong with it.. thank you
Try the selector valve. It could be stuck or malfunctioning open. It's right under the driver door before the fender. What it could be doing is allowing fuel to come through and back just wide open. Those have to be operating right to make sure fuel comes out of the right tank and goes back in the right tank.
@@GCF-Media I believe when the person that took my other tank out that he also took the selector valve out to .can you do that if you just have one tank now and thank you
@@katherineboultinghouse9374 if you've got one tank I think you can take it out. That also helps bring gas back to the tanks.
@@GCF-Media thank you again I'm learning a little at a time and maybe soon with the help of the people on here I will figure it out well should I say you people will figure it out for me.. what to do next I have no clue .I appreciate it
Check to see if you have a recall on your VIN for the fuel tank selector valve
If you stay on top of general maintenance, you’ll be like my 94 f250 5.8 and won’t run into this list of problems
How many miles? I’m currently looking at a 97 f250 5.8 with 280k
What do you think of the 4r70w tranny
Just an improved upon e4OD
I've always been curious everybody says how many problems these trucks have but yet you see thousands and thousands of them on the road every single day summer still bone-stock factory what you hundred thousand or more miles so if they have this many problems why are people buying them
Why would you delete the hoses going to your heater core? 😆 Don't need any of that fancy cab heat or defrost? You already took away a perfectly good A/C system, so no cool temps in the summer... so who needs heat as well? By the time you're done, it'll be a covered wagon. Oregon Trail style!
Don't have the truck anymore. Took the lines out (now this was my mind at the time) to put less strain on the motor and keep more of the engine cool. Took the AC out because 1 it leaked and 2 for mpg increase/less stress on the motor and 3 because it had smoker windows. After all the "mods" and deleting I did I did a 100+ mile trip on 22mpg in this truck, that's back roads and interstate.
@@GCF-Media cool deal 😎 👌 what's your next project vehicle?
You left out that thing behind that stupid intake plenum that goes bad and causes a vacuum leak. Think it has something to do with the EGR.
PCV valve? All pcv valves can fail. My boss has a 2012 Cummins and his pcv failed recently.
Bitch to get to and a whole 1.99$ but from what I’ve heard it is still working if you shake it and it still rattles. You can do that without removing it as well.
@@GCF-Media , Got something to do with the air injection think, Affects egr operation.
@@thangamajig nah. It takes the games created by your motor and returns them to your motor to be burned again. You can find lawnmowers 60 years old with them.
You forgot about transmission shudder
Dude if the damn 94 truck is still running why complain dude its old i have a 94 and didn't have any of this shit you're saying wrong with it and I'm still driving it as of today
Some people wanna know what they're getting theirselves into when buying one. Congrats you got one that doesn't have a problem. You want a cookie?
He’s also right about all these issues being common. Plus who was bitching? He just pointed out what most obs owners already know or gonna find out. lol loved when he said you’re gonna need ya a door handle one day, that’s real talk!
I have one also 278,000 miles still runs well and some small crap is happening but nothing major… just drives well and I will put 200k more on it door handle is fine even with the cracked plastic
All this deleting, talk about bare bone 😂😂
Common problem....all fucking junk.....
Yep. 90s trucks are terrible. Chevy with terrible transmissions, doors not closing, wiring problems, fuel pumps, dodges with terrible transmissions and interiors, ford with terrible transmissions. All with gutless iron block pushrod v8s that make maybe 20hp over their smaller counterparts. 🤷♂️
@@GCF-Media my 83 c10 doors suck....but I don't worry about a bunch no nonsense sensors......🐱🐱
@@jonbovideadoralive looking at a list here... an 83 c10 has basic "nonsense" sensors... oil pressure I presume, coolant temp, knock sensor (let's be honest if it ain't 15 years young that sensor ain't gon tell ya something happened or if you hit a pothole it'll light your dash up), MAP sensor, throttle position sensor, the basics. All which were basic sensors in 90s trucks until 95/96 when MAF came in.
@@GCF-Media 350 4 barrell.
Oil temp volt gage, fuel.few vacuum lines...simple...if you fart wrong in some those ford trucks it'll start running shittier....😄
@@jonbovideadoralive okay.