I missed the end of part one I passed out watching it eyes got heavy bam. You sure get all the interesting problems. Guess your the go to guy in your location for issues.
I have a similar issue with my 2016 ram 1500 v6 3.7L. Service ETC and Service Electronic Braking System. Multiple codes thrown mostly related to high/low voltages. I think this video leads me to suspect a similar issue before I throw the parts cannon at it. I had no codes 2 weeks ago, and now there’s about a dozen, P0108 P0113 P0118 P0198 P0653 P1622 P2181 P2127 P26A7 P2681 P018D.
I'd be willing to bet that that oil leak on the back is coming from the oil filter housing/oil cooler, it's very common for them to leak oil externally and/or into the cooling system. They tend to get mis-diagnosed as a rear main leak quite often. Also beware of the cheap ones found online, we had a customer provide one of those to install and it blew a plastic plug out and dumped all the oil luckily they caught it in time to save the engine.
I learned yesterday that the cooler has been replaced twice. The last one being OE about a month ago shortly before this limp mode started. Interestingly it comes with the oil pressure sensor installed. I also plugged that 10 terminal connector back in and ran it for an hour, drove it several minutes and the problem has not returned. Going to be exploring tomorrow...
@@PhillipBailey Interesting, I wonder if they didn't pinch the harness or maybe the oil is starting to destroy the insulation on the wiring under the manifold. Anyway greetings from Texas and looking forward to part 2.
Hey I’m having the exact same issue almost down to all the codes. It’s a 2014 3.6 Iv done the throttle body, crank sensor and oil sensor and still have the same problem. It shuts off on hard bumps and sharp lefts and gives the etc and goes into limp. Do you think it’s a shorted wire?
Based on you're description of the symptoms I'd say you have a wire in the circuit rubbing on an engine bracket or something. Carefully inspect the harness for rub through on various engine brackets. Check along the right valve cover and front engine brackets. Also I believe the AC pressure sensor shares a 5 volt reference with those sensors. Look for retainers and clips retaining the harness that are often broken during other repairs. Chances are you will find evidence of someone previously working on something most likely unrelated. You could also run the vehicle and carefully manipulate the harness to try to recreate the problem. Good luck.
@@PhillipBailey like you said man, completely unrelated Someone worked on what looks like the heater hoses right behind the connector and the harness was touching agains it on the right hand side and melted the insulation on the ground wire Thank you!!
I’m having an issue on a 2015 3.6 Chrysler town and country and I have the same problem now except I replace both pedal and throttle body and now it doesn’t accelerate it just stays on limp mode and I had the same code as this dodge. I’m wondering if it could possibly be the same issue a short?
I take it that it is setting the same code/s? Any sensor that shares the same reference sensor supply has the potential to short out and take down the 5volt reference to all of them. what specific code does it set. Could also be a chafed wire in the circuit shorting on an engine bracket etc. I believe the AC pressure sensor uses the same 5volt. you could try just unplugging that.
Wouldn't it be the same with the 5.7 Do you think I'm having the same problems and I don't have all the textures I don't have much and I'm not a mechanic But I've had the same thing happen with my old 2007 Wrangler too And it was ruined until I put a new motor on it which which was probably the same problem but I ended up blowing up the motor anyway How common is this because with my my Wrangler I changed the PCM and everything I couldn't figure it out and I'm not about ready to Bust out my Parts cannon I can't afford the ammo
Unfortunately there are dozens of possibilities for the same symptoms. Need to start with a scan for codes and pursue those first. Other than that watching data for abnormalities is next. I'm afraid there's no silver bullet. This is not common in my opinion.
So i’m having the EXACT problem with my 2014 ram 1500 5.7 and it’s been happening for months and my auto shop can’t figure out what’s wrong, what parts did you replace to repair this issue?
I ended up replacing the oil pressure sending unit. There is an accessible connector in the back of the intake that contains the pressure sensor circuits and knock sensor. Try unplugging and driving with it disconnected. If the problem is still present it's not the oil pressure sensor . 46:00 in the video. Wait you said 5.7 this engine is different. The 5.7 oil sender is near the oil filter. So other than being similar this may not apply.
I'm having similar issues except it's with coolant temp sensor throwing a P0018....I swapped new sensor just because it was rather cheap but that didn't solve the issue..fan goes to full speed and temp gauge shuts off and throws the throttle control....I've looked at wiring diagrams but get different schematics depending where I look...could I use a jumper wire from temp sensor reference signal to pcm? I know the pin locations just can't find the actual pinout diagram on pcm...help is appreciated.
P0018 is a cam timing error code so I gather you mean P0118 Engine Coolant Temp high voltage. Disconnect the sensor and inspect the terminals for proper pin drag. Using a voltmeter with the key on measure the voltage on the violet/orange wire. It should be 5 volts. It comes from pin 12 connector 2 at the PCM. If it measures low voltage check continuity of that wire. Jump the two terminals together and rescan for codes after a few seconds. You should now have a history code P0118 and current code P0117 for low voltage. The brown/white wire is the ground it is splice to the same color wire at the intake air temp sensor. That wire is pin 68 connector 2 at the PCM. If that wire is not grounded you have an open in the harness. Try grounding the brown/white wire. HTH. For diagrams check out Alldatadiy.com
@@PhillipBailey thanks for the help...took the whole intake to get better access to wiring and check for continuity at pcm to reference signal and that checked out then checked ground and I had nothing upon pulling back at wiring found a tiny melted portion at ground sliced and repaired and everything checked out explains the intermittent until complete melt...thank you so much... electrical estimates around me where around 300 to 400..
I'm having this same issue. I drove through a puddle and that traction off light came on and the truck seemed like it was in limp mode. I also took a long time to crank
@@trillfatboi The P0335 is a crank sensor related code. If there is a loss of the crank signal it will likely stall but should restart with extended crank time. Inspect the wiring to the crank sensor. If you choose to replace it go with a genuine Ram part. The P26A7 code is a code for the coolant bypass position sensor is not likely related the other two codes are possibly related to ECM data error. good luck.
@@PhillipBailey it definitely might be the wiring because one minute it'll work and then when it's heavy rain it'll stall and that traction off light comes on. Thanks for the reply
Awesome! Im having the same issue, gonna change the oil pressure sensor on Saturday
Great attention to detail. Thanks for posting.
I missed the end of part one I passed out watching it eyes got heavy bam. You sure get all the interesting problems. Guess your the go to guy in your location for issues.
Thanks for watching. It's a long video for sure...
I have a similar issue with my 2016 ram 1500 v6 3.7L. Service ETC and Service Electronic Braking System. Multiple codes thrown mostly related to high/low voltages. I think this video leads me to suspect a similar issue before I throw the parts cannon at it. I had no codes 2 weeks ago, and now there’s about a dozen, P0108 P0113 P0118 P0198 P0653 P1622 P2181 P2127 P26A7 P2681 P018D.
Sounds like something is taking down the 5 volt reference to multiple sensors. Try unplugging the coolant bypass control valve.
I'd be willing to bet that that oil leak on the back is coming from the oil filter housing/oil cooler, it's very common for them to leak oil externally and/or into the cooling system. They tend to get mis-diagnosed as a rear main leak quite often.
Also beware of the cheap ones found online, we had a customer provide one of those to install and it blew a plastic plug out and dumped all the oil luckily they caught it in time to save the engine.
I learned yesterday that the cooler has been replaced twice. The last one being OE about a month ago shortly before this limp mode started. Interestingly it comes with the oil pressure sensor installed. I also plugged that 10 terminal connector back in and ran it for an hour, drove it several minutes and the problem has not returned. Going to be exploring tomorrow...
@@PhillipBailey Interesting, I wonder if they didn't pinch the harness or maybe the oil is starting to destroy the insulation on the wiring under the manifold. Anyway greetings from Texas and looking forward to part 2.
Hey I’m having the exact same issue almost down to all the codes. It’s a 2014 3.6
Iv done the throttle body, crank sensor and oil sensor and still have the same problem.
It shuts off on hard bumps and sharp lefts and gives the etc and goes into limp. Do you think it’s a shorted wire?
Based on you're description of the symptoms I'd say you have a wire in the circuit rubbing on an engine bracket or something. Carefully inspect the harness for rub through on various engine brackets. Check along the right valve cover and front engine brackets. Also I believe the AC pressure sensor shares a 5 volt reference with those sensors. Look for retainers and clips retaining the harness that are often broken during other repairs. Chances are you will find evidence of someone previously working on something most likely unrelated. You could also run the vehicle and carefully manipulate the harness to try to recreate the problem. Good luck.
Thank you I really appreciate the help iv been stuck on this for about 2-3 months and haven’t been able to get anywhere
@@davidramirez5826 since it seems to happen turning left the engine would tend to rock towards the right.
@@PhillipBailey like you said man, completely unrelated
Someone worked on what looks like the heater hoses right behind the connector and the harness was touching agains it on the right hand side and melted the insulation on the ground wire
Thank you!!
@davidramirez5826 glad you figured it out. Too bad you changed all those parts.
I have a 2019 Ram 1500 3.6 and I have the same problem it randomly happened when I was driving I can’t figure out the problem
@youssefkhaled5878 what code or codes does it set?
I’m having an issue on a 2015 3.6 Chrysler town and country and I have the same problem now except I replace both pedal and throttle body and now it doesn’t accelerate it just stays on limp mode and I had the same code as this dodge. I’m wondering if it could possibly be the same issue a short?
I take it that it is setting the same code/s? Any sensor that shares the same reference sensor supply has the potential to short out and take down the 5volt reference to all of them. what specific code does it set. Could also be a chafed wire in the circuit shorting on an engine bracket etc. I believe the AC pressure sensor uses the same 5volt. you could try just unplugging that.
Wouldn't it be the same with the 5.7 Do you think I'm having the same problems and I don't have all the textures I don't have much and I'm not a mechanic But I've had the same thing happen with my old 2007 Wrangler too And it was ruined until I put a new motor on it which which was probably the same problem but I ended up blowing up the motor anyway How common is this because with my my Wrangler I changed the PCM and everything I couldn't figure it out and I'm not about ready to Bust out my Parts cannon I can't afford the ammo
Unfortunately there are dozens of possibilities for the same symptoms. Need to start with a scan for codes and pursue those first. Other than that watching data for abnormalities is next. I'm afraid there's no silver bullet. This is not common in my opinion.
So i’m having the EXACT problem with my 2014 ram 1500 5.7 and it’s been happening for months and my auto shop can’t figure out what’s wrong, what parts did you replace to repair this issue?
I ended up replacing the oil pressure sending unit. There is an accessible connector in the back of the intake that contains the pressure sensor circuits and knock sensor. Try unplugging and driving with it disconnected. If the problem is still present it's not the oil pressure sensor . 46:00 in the video. Wait you said 5.7 this engine is different. The 5.7 oil sender is near the oil filter. So other than being similar this may not apply.
I'm having similar issues except it's with coolant temp sensor throwing a P0018....I swapped new sensor just because it was rather cheap but that didn't solve the issue..fan goes to full speed and temp gauge shuts off and throws the throttle control....I've looked at wiring diagrams but get different schematics depending where I look...could I use a jumper wire from temp sensor reference signal to pcm? I know the pin locations just can't find the actual pinout diagram on pcm...help is appreciated.
P0018 is a cam timing error code so I gather you mean P0118 Engine Coolant Temp high voltage. Disconnect the sensor and inspect the terminals for proper pin drag. Using a voltmeter with the key on measure the voltage on the violet/orange wire. It should be 5 volts. It comes from pin 12 connector 2 at the PCM. If it measures low voltage check continuity of that wire. Jump the two terminals together and rescan for codes after a few seconds. You should now have a history code P0118 and current code P0117 for low voltage. The brown/white wire is the ground it is splice to the same color wire at the intake air temp sensor. That wire is pin 68 connector 2 at the PCM. If that wire is not grounded you have an open in the harness. Try grounding the brown/white wire. HTH. For diagrams check out Alldatadiy.com
@@PhillipBailey thanks for the help...took the whole intake to get better access to wiring and check for continuity at pcm to reference signal and that checked out then checked ground and I had nothing upon pulling back at wiring found a tiny melted portion at ground sliced and repaired and everything checked out explains the intermittent until complete melt...thank you so much... electrical estimates around me where around 300 to 400..
@@julianortega4657 glad you figured it out.
I'm having this same issue. I drove through a puddle and that traction off light came on and the truck seemed like it was in limp mode. I also took a long time to crank
Need to scan it for codes to start with.
@@PhillipBailey p2681
P0335
P26a7
U1424
P1dd2
@@trillfatboi The P0335 is a crank sensor related code. If there is a loss of the crank signal it will likely stall but should restart with extended crank time. Inspect the wiring to the crank sensor. If you choose to replace it go with a genuine Ram part. The P26A7 code is a code for the coolant bypass position sensor is not likely related the other two codes are possibly related to ECM data error. good luck.
@@PhillipBailey it definitely might be the wiring because one minute it'll work and then when it's heavy rain it'll stall and that traction off light comes on. Thanks for the reply
I clean my throttle and now went to the limb mode what I do
Start by scanning for codes. If a scanner is not available try disconnecting the battery for 25 minutes