Attention! This video contains mistakes: 3:40 - the tightening torque is 15 Nm, not 25 Nm. 3:53 - the tightening torque is 103 Nm, not 90 Nm. We're sorry for the inconvenience 🙇♂
Having just completed this job on a 57 plate 1.6 petrol Focus i'll add some thoughts for the inexperienced amateur: You're going to have to cut bolts connecting the knuckle and the subframe to the lower control arm, better with a large angle grinder or recip saw, The welded on nut on the knuckle bolt will need to be ground off, dremel disc is good for smoothing down what's left, My car had sway bar links get in the way of the control arm dropping out. Make sure you undo the links on both sides to allow you to push the sway bar out of the way of the control arm ( should be easy enough) You'll therefore need to replace the lower control arm and get the correct shoulder and camber bolts, I found them on amazon, If working on the ground, it's handy to have two jacks to work the control arm back up to the knuckle with the spring loaded in, more secure. Suspension work will always be tough going on rusty cars in damp climes, don't underestimate the need for correct tools.
I'm replacing the Rear Subframe Axle Beam on 2009 Nissan Sentra, and was watching this film to see how to work with the springs (they are the same on our Nissan). I think maybe I need to replace those springs as well as I'm there anyway. How often do you need to replace those spring? The springs look good, but I've heard that they get compressed with time or smth. I'm replacing the subframe since the car was hit and the Rear Axle Beam got slightly bent, even a small fold was formed on the PS of it. Thank you for the detailed and informative film.
Thank you for your quqestion! We kindly ask you to clarify your request. Or, you can get in touch with our customer support via info@autodoc.co.uk to get the answer to your request. Best Regards, Autodoc Team
I'd strongly recommend waiting to torque down the control arm bolts until the car is set in its comfortable position. torquing the bolts to spec with the suspension in a hanging position will cause the rubber bushings to be under stress when the car compresses to its driving position.
Thank you for your comment! You are absolutely correct, the final tightening of the suspension parts is carried out when the vehicle is standing on its wheels while carrying its own weight. Best Regards, Autodoc Team
Hey what brand of ratchet is that? I’m looking for something other than a snap on ... I commented on the other video but this is the one I meant to comment on
Thank you for your comment! We highly recommend that you contact our Customer Support agents and you will get advice on which car parts you need to obtain. We look forward to hearing from you! Best regards, Autodoc team!
Thank you for your feedback! Yes, you are absolutely right, after replacing it is recommended to adjust the position of the wheels on the breakup stand.Best Regards, Autodoc Team!
Thank you for your feedback! We are glad to know you liked this video. Be sure to subscribe to our channel in order to see more useful videos coming out soon. Best regards, Autodoc team!
I did this today and had to cut off both rear drop links (as they were rusted on) to allow the anti roll bar to move as it stops the control arm from moving down thus not enough room to insert the spring
Nice. What about the top camber bolt does it need to be loosened to get the control arm to drop down far enough to get the spring out/in. My bottom bolt is seized and corroded anyway and have to cut it off and hit out. Don’t want to try without knowing if it’s possible.
@@oldpainless316 I only removed the shocker bolts, the lower control arm bolt and both drop links to allow enough room for new springs. The metal hub part inside the control arm bushing can seize to the bolt so bending the control arm down with out loosening the upper bolt first can naf the bushing, better to replace
Several videos from Autodoc on how to replace rear shocks on mk2 and mk3 Focus HATCHBACK ... a kids job ...and NOTHING ref the ESTATE version , which is way more difficult to perform !!!
Our videos are for reference only. All routine replacements and values can be found directly in the technical documentation for your vehicle or with the help of a car service.
Why do none of the tutorials ever cover getting seized bolts out, the kind of job that should take 1/2 hour turns into a whole day with penetrating oil, heat where safe to use and ultimately a very slow job cutting the bolts both ends with a hacksaw blade in a rag or a handle if you have one. Just replaced both lower arms and a spring on an 04 1.6 ghia, what an arse of a job!
We cannot show all the nuances and problems during replacement, it is all individual and it is not always possible to solve them at home. To avoid this, we always recommend making replacements at specialized car services.
Thank you for the feedback! The replacement process is quite individual and varies by type of each car. Our videos are the informative ones, so some stages of the replacement procedure may be omitted or done before we started the shooting in the interest of time. That's why the process may look a bit easier on the video. Best regards, Autodoc.
Thank you for your comment! We kindly ask you if you could explain to our viewers what reason you consider this a mistake? Looking forward to hearing from you. Best Regards, Autodoc team
Thank you for your feedback! As this washer is an adjusting element of the wheel position, then for dismounting is necessary to put a mark, so that during assembly not to break the factory settings. Best regards, Autodoc!
![How to change rear springs on FORD FOCUS (DAW) [TUTORIAL AUTODOC]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/M-jBxwOuXHY/mqdefault.jpg)
Attention! This video contains mistakes:
3:40 - the tightening torque is 15 Nm, not 25 Nm.
3:53 - the tightening torque is 103 Nm, not 90 Nm.
We're sorry for the inconvenience 🙇♂
Having just completed this job on a 57 plate 1.6 petrol Focus i'll add some thoughts for the inexperienced amateur:
You're going to have to cut bolts connecting the knuckle and the subframe to the lower control arm, better with a large angle grinder or recip saw,
The welded on nut on the knuckle bolt will need to be ground off, dremel disc is good for smoothing down what's left,
My car had sway bar links get in the way of the control arm dropping out. Make sure you undo the links on both sides to allow you to push the sway bar out of the way of the control arm ( should be easy enough)
You'll therefore need to replace the lower control arm and get the correct shoulder and camber bolts, I found them on amazon,
If working on the ground, it's handy to have two jacks to work the control arm back up to the knuckle with the spring loaded in, more secure.
Suspension work will always be tough going on rusty cars in damp climes, don't underestimate the need for correct tools.
Thank you for sharing your experience, it will be very useful information for our viewers.
I'm replacing the Rear Subframe Axle Beam on 2009 Nissan Sentra, and was watching this film to see how to work with the springs (they are the same on our Nissan). I think maybe I need to replace those springs as well as I'm there anyway. How often do you need to replace those spring? The springs look good, but I've heard that they get compressed with time or smth. I'm replacing the subframe since the car was hit and the Rear Axle Beam got slightly bent, even a small fold was formed on the PS of it. Thank you for the detailed and informative film.
If after assembly the springs do not hold the car in a level position, they should be replaced.
Definately something wrong if a car that clean and rust free requires suspension parts. Now show me how to do it on my 16 year old Focus 🤣
According to Ford,you need to set the ride height using a spacer between the lower control arm and the underside of the subframe.
We are sure that your comment will be useful for many of our viewers.
Thanks for watching! Write in the comments if this video was helpful.
Does the bottom spring section that fits in the control ARM need rubber cushion or isolator or is it just metal spring to metal control ARM
Thank you for your quqestion! We kindly ask you to clarify your request. Or, you can get in touch with our customer support via info@autodoc.co.uk to get the answer to your request. Best Regards, Autodoc Team
Mine has rubber cushions top & bottom.
had that arm snap in half from rust rot looks pretty easy for a mechanic to do thanks for the video
Thank you very much for your feedback. We are glad that our video was useful to you.
AUTODOC
I'd strongly recommend waiting to torque down the control arm bolts until the car is set in its comfortable position. torquing the bolts to spec with the suspension in a hanging position will cause the rubber bushings to be under stress when the car compresses to its driving position.
Thank you for your comment! You are absolutely correct, the final tightening of the suspension parts is carried out when the vehicle is standing on its wheels while carrying its own weight. Best Regards, Autodoc Team
How do you do that if the cars on the ground?
@@bigo9293 they normally have kind of a dry dock, like a lower ramp were you can stand without the need for raising the vehicle
Hey what brand of ratchet is that? I’m looking for something other than a snap on ... I commented on the other video but this is the one I meant to comment on
Thank you for your comment!
We highly recommend that you contact our Customer Support agents and you will get advice on which car parts you need to obtain.
We look forward to hearing from you!
Best regards, Autodoc team!
That is a awesome how to video... Thanks...
Thank you for the feedback! We are glad that our tutorial was helpful for you. Stay tuned. Best regards, Autodoc.
Do you need 4 wheel alignment if you change the rear camber settings?
Thank you for your feedback! Yes, you are absolutely right, after replacing it is recommended to adjust the position of the wheels on the breakup stand.Best Regards, Autodoc Team!
Never had a Focus where the bolts haven't been seized solid. Anyway, good video.
Thank you for your feedback! We are glad to know this tutorials was useful to you. Stay tuned for more! Best regards, Autodoc!
Very easy to understand
I think you swap the suspension bolts. The bolt you used on shock is from the lower arm and vice-versa
Amazing fast video.
Thank you for your feedback!
We are glad to know you liked this video.
Be sure to subscribe to our channel in order to see more useful videos coming out soon.
Best regards,
Autodoc team!
Mine has a rear roll bar which gets in the way when you drop the arm down making spring removal a nightmare.
Same here did you just prize it open
What I can’t understand is why would you do this when you could just put two spring clamps on the spring and take it out????
Correctly the procedure is carried out exactly as in the video.
AUTODOC
Helpful
Thanks for your positive comment! Stay with us!
I did this today and had to cut off both rear drop links (as they were rusted on) to allow the anti roll bar to move as it stops the control arm from moving down thus not enough room to insert the spring
Nice. What about the top camber bolt does it need to be loosened to get the control arm to drop down far enough to get the spring out/in. My bottom bolt is seized and corroded anyway and have to cut it off and hit out. Don’t want to try without knowing if it’s possible.
@@oldpainless316 I only removed the shocker bolts, the lower control arm bolt and both drop links to allow enough room for new springs.
The metal hub part inside the control arm bushing can seize to the bolt so bending the control arm down with out loosening the upper bolt first can naf the bushing, better to replace
did the same with my MK1 focus, course i forget to remove antirollbar links and fight with it when i didnt need to,
You should be careful not to spray the copper grease on the threads of the wheel studs.
Thank you for the clarification,
We will take this into account in the following videos.
Best Regards,
Autodoc team
Never ever use cooper grease. Use ceramic instead.
Several videos from Autodoc on how to replace rear shocks on mk2 and mk3 Focus HATCHBACK ... a kids job ...and NOTHING ref the ESTATE version , which is way more difficult to perform !!!
Our videos are for reference only. All routine replacements and values can be found directly in the technical documentation for your vehicle or with the help of a car service.
Why hit the washer and subframe with the chisel?
This is the mark on the suspension adjusting bolt.
AUTODOC
Why do none of the tutorials ever cover getting seized bolts out, the kind of job that should take 1/2 hour turns into a whole day with penetrating oil, heat where safe to use and ultimately a very slow job cutting the bolts both ends with a hacksaw blade in a rag or a handle if you have one. Just replaced both lower arms and a spring on an 04 1.6 ghia, what an arse of a job!
We cannot show all the nuances and problems during replacement, it is all individual and it is not always possible to solve them at home. To avoid this, we always recommend making replacements at specialized car services.
That's the long way
Wish the bolts on my Focus were as easy to undo. Every one siezed and snapped off.
Thank you for the feedback! The replacement process is quite individual and varies by type of each car. Our videos are the informative ones, so some stages of the replacement procedure may be omitted or done before we started the shooting in the interest of time. That's why the process may look a bit easier on the video. Best regards, Autodoc.
Ganna b expensive if u have T buy a that equipment
Show it 4 a guy without all the expensive equipment please
This is the basic equipment :D
If you’re going to use a torque wrench use it properly. One click and stop!
Thank you for your feedback! We will consider it, when making our next videos. Best regards, Autodoc.
All good till you put copper grease all over wheel bolts sorry but in my book big no no.
Thank you for your comment!
We kindly ask you if you could explain to our viewers what reason you consider this a mistake?
Looking forward to hearing from you.
Best Regards,
Autodoc team
why does he stamp the washer with the chisel?
Thank you for your feedback! As this washer is an adjusting element of the wheel position, then for dismounting is necessary to put a mark, so that during assembly not to break the factory settings. Best regards, Autodoc!
Im sure glad his hat is protected by his safety glasses...