Attention! This video contains mistakes: 3:58 - the tightening torque is 15 Nm, not 25 Nm. 4:11 - the tightening torque is 103 Nm, not 90 Nm. We're sorry for the inconvenience 🙇♂
Yeah I saw that as well. I’m just in the process of rebuilding the entire subframe I got from the breakers and have the same issue with the bolts seized to the inner part of the bush. Helpful videos though
We cannot show all the nuances and problems when replacing, this is all individual for each particular model of car and it is not always possible to solve them at home. To avoid this, we always recommend that replacements should be made at specialized car services.
Not sure if I missed it.? I did one side at a time ( diy on garage floor) but undo and remove BOTH sway joints, otherwise you cannot pull arm down far enough to fit spring. Great video’s, very clear.
yeah just noticed that now after spending a whole day wondering how he had so much play in the control arm when he's removed both sway bar links and given himself much more room. ill be doing that tomorow
@@johnnybravo7490 Apparantly, some have problems with bolt through bushing seizing. I was lucky, no problems. But…..Model 1 arm has a different hole and upright bush to mark 2, the parts database was wrong, so double check.
@@douglasalexander4348 I have literally just yesterday on a 2010 mk2 diesel . replaced the spring/swing arm because I snapped that camber bolt on the nut/ rear side and had to get a metal cutting disk and an angle grinder and cut the bolt head off inbetween the swing arm bolt sleeve and the subframe. I had to cut out the swing arm and replace it for £80. Job is now done after spending an entire day trying to hammer out the bolt . Even after I removed the swing arm I tried to remove the cut bolt and it was totally seized.
@@johnnybravo7490 Oh crap. Fitted mine, just a couple of bolts on sway arm, then realised they’d given me the arms with slightly bigger holes, exactly same position. So effectively had to do the job twice. They never seem to have any problems in videos…Aren’t mechanics fun !
Disappointed you felt the need to cut at 2:35 the actual part I need help with. The removal of the cam bolt to free the suspension arm. Thankfully you can see at 2:36 you cut the bolt free, which is probably what I also need to do. Everyone actually watching this would probably appreciate you keeping it real in future videos. It’s seeing how other people deal with real world unexpected (or in this case probably more expected) problems that turns a good video into an excellent one. Worry less about Gotham garage fake “perfection” and keep it more Edd China real world. If you come across a real world problem, sure us how you over come it. We’ll love you more for it. Thanks 😊
We cannot show all the nuances and problems during replacement, it is all individual and it is not always possible to solve them at home. To avoid this, we always recommend making replacements at specialized car services.
@@autodocuk so you’d rather we made our own mistakes rather than learn from you? Why don’t you show us how you overcome the issues that arise, give us a warning if you feel it’s needed and let us decided. Or even if you don’t show us, tell us you had to cut the bolts out. Once I knew they were probably seize in there after luckily spotting the cut bolt and then reading all the other similar disappointed viewers comments I got on with it. So your video actually helped me greatly, so thank you, I just wish you hadn’t tried hiding it. We’re big boys (people even), and probably have big toys too. All I’m saying is, give us all the information, let us decide how to proceed, don’t try hiding it, makes you look dishonest and that you believe your customers aren’t competent or wise enough to do it. My suspension arms are off now, as is the rest of the suspension subframe, yes it was tricky, but if it was easy everyone would be doing it. For others reading this, this what I did (copy at your own risk). I tried using a replicating saw (to avoid sparks) with bi metal blades and cut so far and then blunted them (the bolts are hardened or the blades over heated), eventually I used a diamond cut off disc after doing a risk assessment for fire. Good luck. AUTODOC. Don’t get me wrong. I love your videos, I just annoyed you’re not 100% honest in them. It makes it harder for us. Thanks again!
The video is only for informational purposes and is made for a general understanding of the processes. During the operation of the car, some fasteners may get stuck due to rust or oxide. It is impossible to foresee and show all the nuances. In case of difficulties or additional work and costs, it cannot be shown in the video. We are glad that the video was useful.
He didn’t show setting the arm position before tightening up the bolts. Ford say to make a spacer to set the position, goes between arm and subframe then tighten after position is set.
Had to cut those and the other end too. 4 bolts in all. Why they don't grease 'em in the factory I don't know. Oh I do, to make it more difficult years later lol.
@@royevans4581 Not easy on the drive with jack and axle stands ah wont take long out comes the recip saw cursing, little bit of grease from factory different story
@@Scouterlad Oh yeah Recip. saw, that sounds familiar! Only thing I could get in there, bloody 3 sizes of cutting disc machines, 3 and half, dremel and 5 and a quarter, none would go all the way in lol. As for the outside ones, I had to grind off the captive nuts too so it was a right pain in the arse.
Have a look at other videos on our channel: ► FORD FOCUS 2 car repair tutorial - bitly.su/A7w6WDJD ► How to replace rear springs / rear coil springs on FORD FOCUS 2 (DA) - bitly.su/uZoBw ► How to replace rear suspension arm / rear control arm on FORD FOCUS 2 (DA) - bitly.su/vm5aW
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I'm here for the same reason as most it seems...that damn bolt 🔩 .Time, and time again I tried, without success. So it seems the fckn bolt needs to be cut ✂️ 😢. What is the replacement size length and thickness of the bolt so that I can have it to hand? Additionally, can it be any bolt as I've noticed the original has a long groove down its length
Torque under load? I gave the control arm a few full pumps with the jack to load the suspension when it almost lifted off jack stand. hope Im good ..... OPinions.
Yes, it is recommended to tighten under load, in this video starting at 3:11 minutes the video is how we simulated the working position and load with a hydrostatic.
Signs such as steering play, increased braking distance, rapid wear of bushings, hinges, silent blocks, ball joints, and other parts of the system will help to understand that the suspension arm is out of order.
Thank you for your feedback! You can replace just the bushes in case if they are worn buy you need a hydraulic press to do the job. Be sure to contact our Customer Support agents if want to buy the bushes on our website. We look forward to receiving your request. Best regards, Autodoc!
Dumb question: is the rear tracking adjustable on this car, and is it the bush bolt at the inside end of that lower wishbone that sets the tracking somehow (I'm just going on what a garage told me about Mondeo and this Focus looks similar). Please ignore me if I'm talking garbage.
@@autodocuk Many thanks for confirming. I've seen some writeups that say the Focus uses cam bolts (so you might well need some new ones of those before going to the alignment shop), and some that say Shims. Perhaps depends on which model Focus?
Thank you for your comment! We highly recommend that you contact our Customer Support agents and you will get advice on which car parts you need to obtain. We look forward to hearing from you! Best regards, Autodoc team!
Thank you for your comment! We highly recommend that you contact our Customer Support agents and you will get an advice on which car pats you need to obtain. We look forward to hearing from you! Best regards, Autodoc team!
Thank you for your feedback! The item is called a rear stabilizer bar link. Be sure to contact out Customer Support agents if you need any of those. Best regards, Autodoc!
*This is a little simplified at a time when you need to replace the arms, all the screws are already stuck in the silent block housings and you need to cut them out.*
Thank you for your feedback! Each car requires particular dismantling and everything depends on a technical condition of car parts units, so our videos are informative about the replacement sequence. Best regards, Autodoc.
I did one 2 days for the full thing everything seased in the joints and then for the final touches I want remove the bushing for the wheel arms the brake lines snap ... And then when I put it all back together the bleed nippel for the drums also snap .. pfff what a shittt .....
What's the point of setting torque if you're just going to over torque by clicking 3 more times? 7 years as an Apache mechanic, we would have to replace the but, bolt, and possibly the components after grossly over torquing like that.
Thank you for your comment! You are correct, we have made a mistake in this video and always make sure to avoid it in our newer tutorials . Best Regards, Autodoc Team
@@Squirleypoo Awesome! I have only just seen this reply. I saw a vid on how you guys work, I'm OCD when it comes to tools and procedures so it would be a job from heaven for me. All the best and I hope you are doing well.
![How to change rear wheel bearing on FORD FOCUS MK2 Saloon [TUTORIAL AUTODOC]](/img/n.gif)
Attention! This video contains mistakes:
3:58 - the tightening torque is 15 Nm, not 25 Nm.
4:11 - the tightening torque is 103 Nm, not 90 Nm.
We're sorry for the inconvenience 🙇♂
I like the way the removal of the eccentric bolt needing cutting to get damn thing out was just brushed over...!!
Thank you for sharing your opinion!
Yeah I saw that as well. I’m just in the process of rebuilding the entire subframe I got from the breakers and have the same issue with the bolts seized to the inner part of the bush. Helpful videos though
Got to agree. Grinder and slitting disc was a must when I came to do this.
What the video doesnt show is that the inner control arm/eccentric bolt had to be cut through as it would have welded itself to the bush.
We cannot show all the nuances and problems when replacing, this is all individual for each particular model of car and it is not always possible to solve them at home. To avoid this, we always recommend that replacements should be made at specialized car services.
Not sure if I missed it.? I did one side at a time ( diy on garage floor) but undo and remove BOTH sway joints, otherwise you cannot pull arm down far enough to fit spring. Great video’s, very clear.
Thank you for your comment! We will continue to delight you with new and interesting material.
AUTODOC
yeah just noticed that now after spending a whole day wondering how he had so much play in the control arm when he's removed both sway bar links and given himself much more room. ill be doing that tomorow
@@johnnybravo7490 Apparantly, some have problems with bolt through bushing seizing. I was lucky, no problems. But…..Model 1 arm has a different hole and upright bush to mark 2, the parts database was wrong, so double check.
@@douglasalexander4348 I have literally just yesterday on a 2010 mk2 diesel . replaced the spring/swing arm because I snapped that camber bolt on the nut/ rear side and had to get a metal cutting disk and an angle grinder and cut the bolt head off inbetween the swing arm bolt sleeve and the subframe. I had to cut out the swing arm and replace it for £80. Job is now done after spending an entire day trying to hammer out the bolt . Even after I removed the swing arm I tried to remove the cut bolt and it was totally seized.
@@johnnybravo7490 Oh crap. Fitted mine, just a couple of bolts on sway arm, then realised they’d given me the arms with slightly bigger holes, exactly same position. So effectively had to do the job twice. They never seem to have any problems in videos…Aren’t mechanics fun !
Disappointed you felt the need to cut at 2:35 the actual part I need help with. The removal of the cam bolt to free the suspension arm. Thankfully you can see at 2:36 you cut the bolt free, which is probably what I also need to do.
Everyone actually watching this would probably appreciate you keeping it real in future videos. It’s seeing how other people deal with real world unexpected (or in this case probably more expected) problems that turns a good video into an excellent one.
Worry less about Gotham garage fake “perfection” and keep it more Edd China real world. If you come across a real world problem, sure us how you over come it. We’ll love you more for it. Thanks 😊
We cannot show all the nuances and problems during replacement, it is all individual and it is not always possible to solve them at home. To avoid this, we always recommend making replacements at specialized car services.
@@autodocuk so you’d rather we made our own mistakes rather than learn from you? Why don’t you show us how you overcome the issues that arise, give us a warning if you feel it’s needed and let us decided. Or even if you don’t show us, tell us you had to cut the bolts out. Once I knew they were probably seize in there after luckily spotting the cut bolt and then reading all the other similar disappointed viewers comments I got on with it. So your video actually helped me greatly, so thank you, I just wish you hadn’t tried hiding it. We’re big boys (people even), and probably have big toys too. All I’m saying is, give us all the information, let us decide how to proceed, don’t try hiding it, makes you look dishonest and that you believe your customers aren’t competent or wise enough to do it.
My suspension arms are off now, as is the rest of the suspension subframe, yes it was tricky, but if it was easy everyone would be doing it.
For others reading this, this what I did (copy at your own risk). I tried using a replicating saw (to avoid sparks) with bi metal blades and cut so far and then blunted them (the bolts are hardened or the blades over heated), eventually I used a diamond cut off disc after doing a risk assessment for fire. Good luck.
AUTODOC. Don’t get me wrong. I love your videos, I just annoyed you’re not 100% honest in them. It makes it harder for us.
Thanks again!
The video is only for informational purposes and is made for a general understanding of the processes. During the operation of the car, some fasteners may get stuck due to rust or oxide. It is impossible to foresee and show all the nuances. In case of difficulties or additional work and costs, it cannot be shown in the video. We are glad that the video was useful.
He didn’t show setting the arm position before tightening up the bolts. Ford say to make a spacer to set the position, goes between arm and subframe then tighten after position is set.
Thank you for your feedback! Thank you for your valuable remark, we will consider it, when making our next videos Best regards, Autodoc.
2:36 can see bolt had to be cut as it seizes inside the bushing same as mine 11yrs old only way to get it off cut it be prepared
Had to cut those and the other end too. 4 bolts in all. Why they don't grease 'em in the factory I don't know. Oh I do, to make it more difficult years later lol.
Yeah I see he re-used the washer and nut tho! Cheap bastid lol.
@@royevans4581 Not easy on the drive with jack and axle stands ah wont take long out comes the recip saw cursing, little bit of grease from factory different story
@@Scouterlad Oh yeah Recip. saw, that sounds familiar! Only thing I could get in there, bloody 3 sizes of cutting disc machines, 3 and half, dremel and 5 and a quarter, none would go all the way in lol. As for the outside ones, I had to grind off the captive nuts too so it was a right pain in the arse.
@@royevans4581 did you replace the bushings after cutting the bolts off?
Have a look at other videos on our channel:
► FORD FOCUS 2 car repair tutorial -
bitly.su/A7w6WDJD
► How to replace rear springs / rear coil springs on FORD FOCUS 2 (DA) -
bitly.su/uZoBw
► How to replace rear suspension arm / rear control arm on FORD FOCUS 2 (DA) - bitly.su/vm5aW
Dear friends, we hope you will enjoy this video! Give it a thumbs up, if you want to watch more videos like this!
Remember to subscribe to our Instagram account @autodoc_autoparts
many thanks!
I'm here for the same reason as most it seems...that damn bolt 🔩 .Time, and time again I tried, without success. So it seems the fckn bolt needs to be cut ✂️ 😢. What is the replacement size length and thickness of the bolt so that I can have it to hand? Additionally, can it be any bolt as I've noticed the original has a long groove down its length
Torque under load? I gave the control arm a few full pumps with the jack to load the suspension when it almost lifted off jack stand. hope Im good ..... OPinions.
Yes, it is recommended to tighten under load, in this video starting at 3:11 minutes the video is how we simulated the working position and load with a hydrostatic.
How is the symptom that the part need replacement ?
Signs such as steering play, increased braking distance, rapid wear of bushings, hinges, silent blocks, ball joints, and other parts of the system will help to understand that the suspension arm is out of order.
What’s the bit at 2:05 unlocked with a #16 called? Thanks In advance 😁
hi! nice video..is the bushes on the suspension arm can be replace or its fixed? thank you
Thank you for your feedback! You can replace just the bushes in case if they are worn buy you need a hydraulic press to do the job. Be sure to contact our Customer Support agents if want to buy the bushes on our website. We look forward to receiving your request. Best regards, Autodoc!
If this guy will not speak at all this video will be great.
Dumb question: is the rear tracking adjustable on this car, and is it the bush bolt at the inside end of that lower wishbone that sets the tracking somehow (I'm just going on what a garage told me about Mondeo and this Focus looks similar). Please ignore me if I'm talking garbage.
Yes, it is regulated. After this replacement, it is recommended to adjust the wheel alignment.
@@autodocuk Many thanks for confirming. I've seen some writeups that say the Focus uses cam bolts (so you might well need some new ones of those before going to the alignment shop), and some that say Shims. Perhaps depends on which model Focus?
where you get the parts ? WHATS THE NAME OF THE LINK ?
Thank you for your comment!
We highly recommend that you contact our Customer Support agents and you will get advice on which car parts you need to obtain.
We look forward to hearing from you!
Best regards,
Autodoc team!
You forgot to torque the eccentric bolt 😊✌️
Hello why dose he hit with a chisel at 147 please
merci pour la video très utile
Thank you for your feedback! Be sure to subsribe to our channel if you haven`t done so yet. Best regards, Autodoc!
Buen
PLEASE contact me in where i can order my ford car parts back lower control arm like the video!
Thank you for your comment!
We highly recommend that you contact our Customer Support agents and you will get an advice on which car pats you need to obtain.
We look forward to hearing from you!
Best regards,
Autodoc team!
Not feeling the music and talking 🤔
At 1 min 42 what is the name of the bolt he's just took out?
Thank you for your feedback! The item is called a rear stabilizer bar link. Be sure to contact out Customer Support agents if you need any of those. Best regards, Autodoc!
What does the rear stablizer do since it doesnt really connect to anything
Nevermind i see the sway bar my 07 doesnt have a wear sway bar and its been with me since it was bought with 20 miles on it
*This is a little simplified at a time when you need to replace the arms, all the screws are already stuck in the silent block housings and you need to cut them out.*
We are sure that your comment will be useful for many of our viewers.
They skipped the part when they had to cut the eccentric bolt 😂
What about when the bolt siezes hub side like 90% of them do 😂😂😂
Thank you for your feedback! Each car requires particular dismantling and everything depends on a technical condition of car parts units, so our videos are informative about the replacement sequence. Best regards, Autodoc.
impact
Grinder the fuckers off... Had to cut the lot off mine 😂😂😂😂
I did one 2 days for the full thing everything seased in the joints and then for the final touches I want remove the bushing for the wheel arms the brake lines snap ... And then when I put it all back together the bleed nippel for the drums also snap .. pfff what a shittt .....
Soak with Wd 40 overnight, then wire brush. Wipe dry and use a plumbers blowtorch on nut. If that fails, angle grinder.
Put your safety glasses on duder
In the new videos, we have already fixed a number of problems, we will be glad if you rate the new videos.
What's the point of setting torque if you're just going to over torque by clicking 3 more times? 7 years as an Apache mechanic, we would have to replace the but, bolt, and possibly the components after grossly over torquing like that.
Thank you for your comment! You are correct, we have made a mistake in this video and always make sure to avoid it in our newer tutorials . Best Regards, Autodoc Team
Apache mechanic? As in the attack helicopters?
I agree, he must be an apprentice
@@royevans4581 yep!
@@Squirleypoo Awesome! I have only just seen this reply. I saw a vid on how you guys work, I'm OCD when it comes to tools and procedures so it would be a job from heaven for me. All the best and I hope you are doing well.
Useless. You don't point out where to jack it up or anything. Shame.
Врхунски !