It is refreshing to see someone DIAGNOSE something, instead of doing simple code reading and parts swapping like all of the under-qualified mechanics of today! CONGRATS!
Hello and Greetings Mr. Bello! Always a distinct pleasure to watch and learn from your videos. And I must say, I think that I enjoy your "asides" and comments almost as much as your diagnostic adventures. The CIS test port, for settling the idle, I had not known about before and this was a real revelation that you shared. Just finished installing a CIS FlowTech rebuilt fuel distributor on my '84 244 Turbo sedan, and while I had difficulty starting "Ruby" again until I got the air delivery plate properly adjusted, and the 3mm mixture screw 'just right"; she ended up with a really high idle. So thanks to you now, I can have a serious look at the idle air control valve and use the CIS (blue/white wire) test port to get the idle tuned into before adding the idle air control valve back into the mix. We actually met briefly at the "Volvos in the Hood" meet this summer, and it was fun to get to talk with you briefly. Thanks again for your educational AND entertaining Volvo videos! - grayrider in Oregon
Had a high idle on my "92. After exhaustive troubleshooting I found I had somehow folded the gasket when I cleaned the throttle body. Boy did I feel silly! But as a result everything in the engine bay had been gone over. Good video!
i have a 86 740 it wants to run wide open i cleaned it out today and hope it starts working again if not i am lucky enough to have one of the best mechanics.. i've had him fo about 40 years now bought both of my volvos from him and he said he has another one if need be just being the weekend i won't bother him even though i do have his cell # so your video was great for answering the questions i forgot to ask .. my other car is a 93 940 turbo the only other thing i will mention i've changed on the car is i went from the zf22 4 speed to a aw71 3 with an od as they are easier to find and don't have as many issues.. the drive shaft was the only real issue but my guy has one of those for me also .. anyway thanks for having a video that was actually about the part i have on my car .
I just drove from Montana to Minnesota with a 1982 Volvo 245, and it definitely needs some work. It idles a bit rough, and it never starts on the first turn of the key (more like the fourth, fifth, or sixth). So I'm definitely subscribing!
Thank you for the very Informative vid.’Have a 92 240 and the idle stays high after coming off the freeway. Will try to clean the IAC also. Thanks again for your channel.
I have the green books for the 700s and 900s (what else) and every electrical diagram as well. I've hit this iac thing four times in the last two years.... and found the dirt build up actually seize an air valve completely. some of those replacement air hoses are REALLY expensive. nice how to. at least auto zone tried. kudos for intentions!
- it's a also good to make sure the throttle cable is not too tight. Do this before you adjust base idle. - another issue that i have experienced is a LOSE BUTTERFLY VALVE inside the throttlebody axel. It causes binding resulting in a high revving engine. Tightening the axel screws (with the butterfly valve fully/properly closed) and adding a drop of loctite on the ends of the screws ensures a permanent fix for that.
If only you posted this a week before. My 940 did the same high revs and cold was pretty bad. Sounded cammed. Took it to a 940 expert and he said IAC was bad. He also said since I didn't have a heat shield, my sparkplug wires were going bad and was causing the car to run on 2 cylinder at start but once warm they all ran. Pretty odd. Sadly I have a Regina system Volvo so IAC is annoyingly hard to find and prices are through the roof.
Hey my 1984 244DL auto has been misfiring. I finally got the high idle fixed. I replace the flame trap, full tune up, new air filter, tons of new hoses. But it still surges at idle. I’ve narrow it down to the brake booster. At least that’s what I hope
My IAC is flaky too. It seems to work at startup. I let it warm up before work and it kicks down like all is well. Then I go to park and when I take it out of gear the high idle is engaged. I have the other unit with the 2 pins and the 90 degree config.
From my experience (at least with LH2.4) that is not only a symptom of the IAC. Check your codes, vacuum leaks, and your idle switch calibration. My 740 did that consistently when I had a bad ECU and a couple of times when I had a vacuum leak.
Just finished university and currently looking for a job, as soon as I find one I will begin restoring my '86 240 DL wagon This series is giving me loads of things for my to-do list, it's awesome! Two quick questions: Is the crankshaft position sensor on your car mounted with a bolt from the top? Do you still need the single-fillament blinker bulbs with offset contact spots or did you find a solution?
Thanks for watching and good luck! 1) Crank sensor on pre 1989 cars is the hall effect sensor inside the distributor, 3 wire plug on the front of the dizzy body. 2) Those bulbs don't exist in the US, as far as I've found. It was confirmed that the light bulbs used in European models are two filament bulbs, where the US only got one.
@@DavidBello 1) The crankshaft position sensor should be mounted to the bellhousing just behind the engine. Most are mounted with a bolt from the top, but a very limited number have it mounted from the inside of the bellhousing (mine included, though I changed the mount for the one that has the bolt on the outside) 2) If you want some European, two fillament bulbs, I would be happy to help (I live close to VParts Denmark so I can easily get a hold of them) I will have to check if single fillament bulbs are available with offset contacts. Also, I don't know if you could install a European blinker housing, since they attach to the headlight housing, which I believe are different in the US.
@@yellow-harold8965 LH2.2 does not use a crankshaft position sensor, there is no sensor mounted to the bellhousing on your 240 or David's, unless it had been swapped to LH2.4. You may find a single-wire pickup that reads off the flywheel, but that is purely for diagnostic purposes and not read by the ECU or EZK
@@Codename5A3 oh, mine is not an LH 2.2, I have a B230K engine, so my wiring harness is not made for fuel injection. I just didn't know that Volvo didn't put crankshaft position sensors on all of the cars. Its purpose is to send a signal that allows the ignition coil to turn on, I guess I assumed (wrongly) that they would use the same technology for all of their engines.
Well, my idle dosent change at all when i ground out the little plug. Ive gone through 3 iacvs and im suspecting it may not be getting power. Also the wiring harness is fine, no cracks Plz help
Thanks for posting this. I have an ‘86 245 and now stalls when making a hard right. It was suggested to look at a sticky IAC and check the base idle/throttle body is clean. Thoughts? BTW, my IAC appears to be the original Bosch part. Perhaps it’s best to just replace it?
If at all possible I like OEM parts too! There is nothing worse than thinking your ruled something out by putting in an aftermarket part only to find out much later the part was garbage. The other problem is when the part will work for like a month then fail after all the work it took to replace it.
Mine just don't start if I plug the ground part. I see that you ground it after start engine. Was just the blue one connected or just take the red one out. How I need to connect it after start engine?
If in doubt( aged looking or OEM),replace it! An inexpensive part!Plus," Dave's 1985,like my 1986 were the years of," Biodegradable wiring( Volvo finally changed in 1988),as I bought an "85" sedan very cheap.The guy replaces the battery&put in a new,"Bosch Alternator" about $300.00 for that part&...damn car won't charge I buy the car for $ 400.00,and found," degraded wire,about 1 ft.up the line from the alternator & Re- wired it& a great car for 11 years..
Same problem happened to my friend Sara’s red wagon, to the alternator, even though it was a 1992 model. The wiring was snagged and broken at the under-crank mounting bolts
Black pin is ground, is the white power and brown reference? Does the ECU provide power/ground through the brown wire in various amounts to control the IAC?
Good thing I have Bentley software to show me the correct way to check iac valve but remember the TPS (throttle position sensor) also feeds info to the iac valve. If your TPS isn't adjusted properly this can cause misinterpretation to the computer in turn thinking it open throttle (high idle) is a side effect. This makes it think the throttle is moving although it's not.
Hi, David, I was watching your video and am very impressed. I have 240 Volvo 88 and have some problem when I reb it from the dial it runs well and when I repeat it again it feels like short of fuel at the start and if I turn the wheel slowly it picks up the speed, but from start, it feels like the engine is going to quit. Please advise me what Can I do to cure the problem .Do I have to replace the idle control Valve? Thank you
Hey so I just got one of these did a tune up and everything is correct that way but now my car when taking off is stuttering. I'm thinking it's the clutch cause I noticed that the clutch was almost done
I stick to chilton and haynes. They have all schematics present and ready to go. Ill have the l shaped one on my 90 244. I am having a surge problem. Ill try cleaning it and replacing it back on.
My first 242 I sold to Nick; he's working on a V8 swap! The Blue '84 wagon "carol" was sold on Craigslist in 2016. The 99 V70 was sold to Soren. It's the one you see in the timing belt video pt 2. I also sold my KA24DET-swapped 242 to Soren. My white '93 was sold to a friend at work, Lucas. Also contemplating a V8 swap! 😅 I bought and sold maybe 30 in the past 10 years, but have only persoanlly daily-driven a couple.
@@DavidBello Thanks for the reply. 😊 So it is Shelby and Genevieve in the garage or am I wrong? Where is Chili pepper and Bruce? Have you sold them? Sorry i forgot what you did with them 😂
David Bello, hey man i just pulled my IAC i noticed this part has some play inside it if i shake it somethings loose inside. Im assuming the parts not workin. What do you think play inside that IAC? Is this bad or normal?
normal. there's a vane/shutter attached to the motor that rotates open and closed, giving less or more air to the engine. it WILL move when shook. when cleaning, bear in mind that BRAKECLEAN will NOT dissolve carbon build up!! Also, IIRC from 14yrs of independent service work, BASE IDLE speed is ~ 720rpm. and CURB idle is ~ 760. its on the EPA sticker on left inner fender.
I have a 240 auto 1984 B23A, I can not get the idle down under 1200 rpm. Replaced all vacuum hoses, checked by Volvo org book diagram, I am just perplexed. The idle screw on the intake manifold is just a cast dummy, not a turnable screw. The carb, Pierburg, have no idle screw. I have oil in the carb for the slide, ok. I can not find if it has an idle motor.
So, according to Auto Zone your Volvo has a split personality. Personally, I suspect it's Auto Zone that has the split personality. One personality is wrong, the other personality is totally and utterly wrong...
@@NgelR might be fuel delivery. There are rubber hoses on the fuel pump in the tank. Does it do it all the time or when you’re at less-than-full gas tank?
It is refreshing to see someone DIAGNOSE something, instead of doing simple code reading and parts swapping like all of the under-qualified mechanics of today! CONGRATS!
ThomasAlva well I just made that mistake on my BMW and it cost me $800 to correct a $20 fix had I diagnosed properly 😬
Hello and Greetings Mr. Bello! Always a distinct pleasure to watch and learn from your videos. And I must say, I think that I enjoy your "asides" and comments almost as much as your diagnostic adventures. The CIS test port, for settling the idle, I had not known about before and this was a real revelation that you shared. Just finished installing a CIS FlowTech rebuilt fuel distributor on my '84 244 Turbo sedan, and while I had difficulty starting "Ruby" again until I got the air delivery plate properly adjusted, and the 3mm mixture screw 'just right"; she ended up with a really high idle. So thanks to you now, I can have a serious look at the idle air control valve and use the CIS (blue/white wire) test port to get the idle tuned into before adding the idle air control valve back into the mix. We actually met briefly at the "Volvos in the Hood" meet this summer, and it was fun to get to talk with you briefly. Thanks again for your educational AND entertaining Volvo videos! - grayrider in Oregon
RIP k-jet.org...you’re holding the torch now Mr. Bello!
Wishing the best for Mr FiveAlive. Happy to help the community!
Had a high idle on my "92. After exhaustive troubleshooting I found I had somehow folded the gasket when I cleaned the throttle body. Boy did I feel silly! But as a result everything in the engine bay had been gone over. Good video!
Did you remove the TB to clean it?
thanks for posting this. I've got a similar problem, it will drop so slow it actually stalls. this video is helpful.
You sir, are a horrible influence. I'm online looking at old Volvo wagons, much to my wife's chagrin. Lol, keep it up, love the series.
Just remind her how they have the best "cool factor-per-dollar" value!
i have a 86 740 it wants to run wide open i cleaned it out today and hope it starts working again if not i am lucky enough to have one of the best mechanics.. i've had him fo about 40 years now bought both of my volvos from him and he said he has another one if need be just being the weekend i won't bother him even though i do have his cell # so your video was great for answering the questions i forgot to ask .. my other car is a 93 940 turbo
the only other thing i will mention i've changed on the car is i went from the zf22 4 speed to a aw71 3 with an od as they are easier to find and don't have as many issues.. the drive shaft was the only real issue but my guy has one of those for me also .. anyway thanks for having a video that was actually about the part i have on my car .
I just drove from Montana to Minnesota with a 1982 Volvo 245, and it definitely needs some work. It idles a bit rough, and it never starts on the first turn of the key (more like the fourth, fifth, or sixth). So I'm definitely subscribing!
Cool how you closed the "curtain" at the end. The headlights look great!
Like you said - "Much butter"! Seriously, this is a much improved car already.
Thank you for the very
Informative vid.’Have a 92 240 and the idle stays high after coming off the freeway. Will try to clean the IAC also. Thanks again for your channel.
Dudebro! I have access to alldata at work, next time I’ll print it off for you. Also I have the owners manuals for the 240’s.
Hey man Have you got the 940 service manuals? :)
I have the green books for the 700s and 900s (what else) and every electrical diagram as well. I've hit this iac thing four times in the last two years.... and found the dirt build up actually seize an air valve completely. some of those replacement air hoses are REALLY expensive. nice how to. at least auto zone tried. kudos for intentions!
- it's a also good to make sure the throttle cable is not too tight. Do this before you adjust base idle.
- another issue that i have experienced is a LOSE BUTTERFLY VALVE inside the throttlebody axel. It causes binding resulting in a high revving engine. Tightening the axel screws (with the butterfly valve fully/properly closed) and adding a drop of loctite on the ends of the screws ensures a permanent fix for that.
Well done! You also managed a little Murphy's law thingy again.
If only you posted this a week before. My 940 did the same high revs and cold was pretty bad. Sounded cammed. Took it to a 940 expert and he said IAC was bad. He also said since I didn't have a heat shield, my sparkplug wires were going bad and was causing the car to run on 2 cylinder at start but once warm they all ran. Pretty odd. Sadly I have a Regina system Volvo so IAC is annoyingly hard to find and prices are through the roof.
Nice Don Jr haircut. The ladies like it no one can blame you for the look.
I'm playing a retired Tennis Pro in a play right now. 1950's middle class England.
@@DavidBello lol spot on. Love the channel wish my junkyard still had red block Volvos, but sadly it's all P2 stuff.
Awesome, again, I can't wait to get my own 240, then getting issues with it and solving them with your vids 🤷😅
Holy crap! This is very useful info. Thanks for saving me a cubic butt-ton of time!
I took school so I know that’s a lot!🤓
Hey my 1984 244DL auto has been misfiring. I finally got the high idle fixed. I replace the flame trap, full tune up, new air filter, tons of new hoses. But it still surges at idle. I’ve narrow it down to the brake booster. At least that’s what I hope
Snowmine fuck yeah!
Looks like the car has," a kinda lot of Idle Time.I played," Billy Idol& it started working,but tired of playing him all day.
Please keep making 240 videos!!!
My IAC is flaky too. It seems to work at startup. I let it warm up before work and it kicks down like all is well. Then I go to park and when I take it out of gear the high idle is engaged. I have the other unit with the 2 pins and the 90 degree config.
From my experience (at least with LH2.4) that is not only a symptom of the IAC. Check your codes, vacuum leaks, and your idle switch calibration.
My 740 did that consistently when I had a bad ECU and a couple of times when I had a vacuum leak.
You're fortunate enough then to have ODB on that car, so check those codes. They should help with the head-scratching.
Just finished university and currently looking for a job, as soon as I find one I will begin restoring my '86 240 DL wagon
This series is giving me loads of things for my to-do list, it's awesome!
Two quick questions:
Is the crankshaft position sensor on your car mounted with a bolt from the top?
Do you still need the single-fillament blinker bulbs with offset contact spots or did you find a solution?
Thanks for watching and good luck!
1) Crank sensor on pre 1989 cars is the hall effect sensor inside the distributor, 3 wire plug on the front of the dizzy body.
2) Those bulbs don't exist in the US, as far as I've found. It was confirmed that the light bulbs used in European models are two filament bulbs, where the US only got one.
@@DavidBello
1) The crankshaft position sensor should be mounted to the bellhousing just behind the engine. Most are mounted with a bolt from the top, but a very limited number have it mounted from the inside of the bellhousing (mine included, though I changed the mount for the one that has the bolt on the outside)
2) If you want some European, two fillament bulbs, I would be happy to help (I live close to VParts Denmark so I can easily get a hold of them) I will have to check if single fillament bulbs are available with offset contacts.
Also, I don't know if you could install a European blinker housing, since they attach to the headlight housing, which I believe are different in the US.
@@yellow-harold8965 LH2.2 does not use a crankshaft position sensor, there is no sensor mounted to the bellhousing on your 240 or David's, unless it had been swapped to LH2.4. You may find a single-wire pickup that reads off the flywheel, but that is purely for diagnostic purposes and not read by the ECU or EZK
@@Codename5A3 oh, mine is not an LH 2.2, I have a B230K engine, so my wiring harness is not made for fuel injection. I just didn't know that Volvo didn't put crankshaft position sensors on all of the cars.
Its purpose is to send a signal that allows the ignition coil to turn on, I guess I assumed (wrongly) that they would use the same technology for all of their engines.
If you hate your life , or life seems too easy and enjoyable , put a zenit carb on that bad boy
An 85 came with a 501 idle valve. The 520 was used in 1988 only. Both LH 2.2. I don't what the difference might be, if any.
Love the vid
I’m having very poor fuel consumption on my 1989 2.0
Idle valve will stall the car but won’t ever raise the idle up past 700rpm
Well, my idle dosent change at all when i ground out the little plug. Ive gone through 3 iacvs and im suspecting it may not be getting power. Also the wiring harness is fine, no cracks
Plz help
1989 volvo 244 dl; would the ACV also cause the car to shut down during idle or when you first pump gas after being idle?
Also can look it up using a Renault 2.2 for. That era , same part
Thanks for posting this. I have an ‘86 245 and now stalls when making a hard right. It was suggested to look at a sticky IAC and check the base idle/throttle body is clean. Thoughts?
BTW, my IAC appears to be the original Bosch part. Perhaps it’s best to just replace it?
If at all possible I like OEM parts too! There is nothing worse than thinking your ruled something out by putting in an aftermarket part only to find out much later the part was garbage. The other problem is when the part will work for like a month then fail after all the work it took to replace it.
SO frustrating. That's what happened with my S60R's aftermarket coolant reservoir bottle by Behr. Luckily, it had lifetime warranty from FCP!
Mine just don't start if I plug the ground part. I see that you ground it after start engine. Was just the blue one connected or just take the red one out. How I need to connect it after start engine?
Where did you find the part? Website?
Thank you Amazing video super heplfull for us lh 2.2 guys
If in doubt( aged looking or OEM),replace it! An inexpensive part!Plus," Dave's 1985,like my 1986 were the years of," Biodegradable wiring( Volvo finally changed in 1988),as I bought an "85" sedan very cheap.The guy replaces the battery&put in a new,"Bosch Alternator" about $300.00 for that part&...damn car won't charge I buy the car for $ 400.00,and found," degraded wire,about 1 ft.up the line from the alternator & Re- wired it& a great car for 11 years..
Same problem happened to my friend Sara’s red wagon, to the alternator, even though it was a 1992 model. The wiring was snagged and broken at the under-crank mounting bolts
Black pin is ground, is the white power and brown reference? Does the ECU provide power/ground through the brown wire in various amounts to control the IAC?
Good thing I have Bentley software to show me the correct way to check iac valve but remember the TPS (throttle position sensor) also feeds info to the iac valve. If your TPS isn't adjusted properly this can cause misinterpretation to the computer in turn thinking it open throttle (high idle) is a side effect. This makes it think the throttle is moving although it's not.
Chris Martinez *that’s right. The quick and easy check is the click as you begin to open the throttle. Thankfully it was just the valve this time.*
Awsome video seriously thankyou!
the days of our lives
This was so helpful ! Thx
Please what color is graund in mass air flow sensor
Hi, David, I was watching your video and am very impressed. I have 240 Volvo 88 and have some problem when I reb it from the dial it runs well and when I repeat it again it feels like short of fuel at the start and if I turn the wheel slowly it picks up the speed, but from start, it feels like the engine is going to quit.
Please advise me what Can I do to cure the problem .Do I have to replace the idle control Valve? Thank you
Try using 303 aerospace protectant on some of that insulation!
The wiring insulation?
@@DavidBello the exposed wires, my 740 has a lot of them under the hood. The 303 helps it from falling apart.
Brilliant idea. Thank you!
Hey so I just got one of these did a tune up and everything is correct that way but now my car when taking off is stuttering. I'm thinking it's the clutch cause I noticed that the clutch was almost done
So did the shifter cup parts fix the slop?
Haven't ordered one yet.
@@DavidBello oh, Ok! I thought maybe you'd addressed it off camera. 🙂
Not sure if its my idle air c valve or my crankcase sensor or a knock sensor everything else is all oem new
I stick to chilton and haynes. They have all schematics present and ready to go. Ill have the l shaped one on my 90 244. I am having a surge problem. Ill try cleaning it and replacing it back on.
I hope you do more volvo rescue movies. I always watch when you do one.😀 What happend with the others beside the amazons you have in your garage😀
My first 242 I sold to Nick; he's working on a V8 swap!
The Blue '84 wagon "carol" was sold on Craigslist in 2016.
The 99 V70 was sold to Soren. It's the one you see in the timing belt video pt 2.
I also sold my KA24DET-swapped 242 to Soren.
My white '93 was sold to a friend at work, Lucas. Also contemplating a V8 swap! 😅
I bought and sold maybe 30 in the past 10 years, but have only persoanlly daily-driven a couple.
@@DavidBello Thanks for the reply. 😊 So it is Shelby and Genevieve in the garage or am I wrong? Where is Chili pepper and Bruce? Have you sold them? Sorry i forgot what you did with them 😂
I want know graund in mass air flow sensor cable color
As an aside, is that a brass key serving as a washer on the radiator fan shroud mount? .😀
Yes! I found it during our timing belt part 1 video, and it was so funny that I kept it!
@@DavidBello Just more 240 mystique!
Where is your exhaust leak ? Intake manifild gasket ?
I got a 1982 240 GL that want to fix but don’t know a thing on mechanics.🤦🏻♂️I’ll learn.
So i should be a used oem part ?
I got a high " Billy Idol" bummer!
David Bello, hey man i just pulled my IAC i noticed this part has some play inside it if i shake it somethings loose inside. Im assuming the parts not workin. What do you think play inside that IAC? Is this bad or normal?
normal. there's a vane/shutter attached to the motor that rotates open and closed, giving less or more air to the engine. it WILL move when shook. when cleaning, bear in mind that BRAKECLEAN will NOT dissolve carbon build up!! Also, IIRC from 14yrs of independent service work, BASE IDLE speed is ~ 720rpm. and CURB idle is ~ 760. its on the EPA sticker on left inner fender.
Idle control screw to adjust rpm?
Do you recommend to clean the IAC if my idle isn't a steady rpm (high-low-high-low-high-low)?
Yes
I have a 240 auto 1984 B23A, I can not get the idle down under 1200 rpm. Replaced all vacuum hoses, checked by Volvo org book diagram, I am just perplexed. The idle screw on the intake manifold is just a cast dummy, not a turnable screw. The carb, Pierburg, have no idle screw. I have oil in the carb for the slide, ok. I can not find if it has an idle motor.
Actually old Volvo wiring came wrapped in electrical tape from the factory.
Do you hate the 740/940? Never seen you mess with one
I don't think the 740 was ever as popular as the 240 in the US, at least not until the 240 died and people had to move on to the 940...
I did a B230FT swap on one. I like *certain* things about them, but they're just not my cup of tea. Ohh that fibreglass radiator support 😬
great work, keep it up !
come here with stalls problems when hot start, and I will clean it to see if it solves the problem
So, according to Auto Zone your Volvo has a split personality. Personally, I suspect it's Auto Zone that has the split personality. One personality is wrong, the other personality is totally and utterly wrong...
Both of them want to sell you replacement parts... Which are probably also wrong.
@@EarlofBaltimore Yup. You've been to Auto Zone then...
Oh yeah, too many times. I learned to go online to IPD or FCP on my second 240
@@EarlofBaltimore Yes, marque specialists are definitely the best way if you have something a little outside the main stream...
Never trust Autozone!!!
Why is the screen so fucked
What can be my 240 turning off when stop to turn left most of the time?
@@NgelR might be fuel delivery. There are rubber hoses on the fuel pump in the tank. Does it do it all the time or when you’re at less-than-full gas tank?
@@DavidBello when less half tank yes