My first Multiboard setup was a total of 12 8*8 squares, the second is 3*3, and the next one I'm printing now is 5*4, and may be 5*5 if it will fit :) They are so versatile
I've printed a few "scrapers" in PLA to remove prints and I find that they do a decent job without scratching the print bed. Yeah they aren't as durable, but its a quick print and you can just print a new one when needed. Its been over a month since I printed my first 2 and I haven't had to print more. Something to keep in mind. Ive looked into printing this system, thanks for the share.
I just print one at a time and all of them have nice PEI surface. Cool subsystem. I personally do love only the very first Ender 3. All other modifications have their downsides. Why Creality would not polish the very first model and call it Ender 3 DIY is a mystery for me. Prusa have printer KIT and as far as I know it have its popularity. And I already posted under the other video. The very first Ender 3 is very easy to maintain and upgrade, it really need some tuning, but after that it just prints. I am going to install POM Z nut so I will not need to grease it anymore. Needless to say in a two years I never greased it though = ) And it can print really fast, may be not so fast as a Bambu models, but 'cmon, its $100 printer which was created like 7 years ago or so. And Bambu printers are top notch and have quite a cost.
Doing the same 4 stack on my K1 Max and it's going to take 24hrs, and I thought that was too long lol. Still using my Creality CR10 as the "parts" printer, and it's doing 15hr prints at about the same speed as the Ender 3 Pro. The biggest thing about both these printers is the removeable spring steel built plate - it's a game changer for removing prints from the bed, even really small ones come off so easy.
@@dougdoesstuff24 yeah quality is primary when you have things you see each and every day. At times I want to get another printer to get these jobs done quicker, but I might just have to dust off the old CR10-S5 and get it working on some of the items as well. I think I have 3 weeks of printing left just for the next multi board project, then I want to start on the tool storage
I saw the multiboard guys video. he does it by putting a PETG layer between the PLA 8x8 prints. means you need one of those fancy bambool ab multi filament printers. I am trying to see if i can do this on my ender 3. and good to see you have done it. I am tired of printing one at a time every 5 hours. please share your tips on how to achieve this stack on a ender3 like printer and what settings would help with separating the prints
Honestly, before I went about messing with my E3Pro it was printing solid as you could see in the videos. When I tried the darn Sprite extruder SE is when my problems started. I just had a basic cura normal profile with a few changes to walls and ironing and it was working.
My .2MM layer height 40% infill profile can print this in under 22 hours on a bone stock Ender 3 pro. I highly encourage you to look into tuning your slicer profile by hand as the default settings are FAR too conservative. Though my profile prints over twice as fast, the prints are able to retain the majority of the strength compared to default.
My print bed arrived warped, so I clipped on a treated glass plate to provide a flat surface. One day I'll replace the bed, but for now magnetic or spring steel build plates lead to unsustainable print failures for me.
2 days to print that is insane, I think my mostly stock sidewinder X2 could do that in 8 hours or so, I suggest you speed up the print head, get a 0.6mm nozzle which will let you set the layer height to 0.5mm which is awesome for churning out stuff like this
Careful with that advice-- first, the stacks are designed for 0.2mm layer height. The "gap" between layers is 0.2mm. Also, the recommended print is 3 walls, and about 15% infill. On my Bambu X1C, "mostly" default settings, a stack takes 11 hours. The first three layers have ironing enabled for top surfaces. Also, unusually on the multiboard, each hole (big and little) is threaded. This means you can thread in pegs, connectors, etc., but it also means that each hole is threaded, and I haven't tested how large layer heights work on multiboard.
@@johngelnaw1243 Hey there. Thanks for chiming in. I did see that about the .2 layer height. I have no intention of changing nozzles until I figure this thing out. Again, thank you!
@@dougdoesstuff24 Nice! If you end up moving to Orca Slicer, OctoPrint, or have any questions please let me know I'm also newish to it but have compiled marlin after installing a direct drive Revo nozzle. Always happy to help maybe some of my failures could save you some time. I'm thinking about trying the multi board and appreciate you sharing
I just moved it there for now because of how long it was going to take. BUT, since I did the motherboard upgrade on it, it is VERY quiet. I could tolerate it if I had to. The original motherboard was so loud and could be heard from anywhere.
What is multiboard = the 3D printed organization system based off of others that have already existed that tries to take advantage of packages that make it easier to understand the system to make money, that sums it up in the nutshell, ohh and uses the license two stranglehold makers on what they can and cannot recreate lol..........................
@@dougdoesstuff24 nope honeycomb storage wall cuz its free and remixable and the creator didnt create it to take advantage of people to make a buck and claim its FREE
@@NoMercyFtw Yeah, that $5 I paid for access to all the stack models nearly bankrupted me. Multiboard is also remixable, but you can't claim it's your own work. And you can't sell it (without a license). What a burden. I evaluated most of the available storage wall options-- and multiboard wins hands down, and by a country mile. It's pegboard compatible, it supports connectors, it holds a LOT more weight than HSW, and personal peeve, I don't have to put my snaps diagonally. I do think the starter package should be free, though.
@@johngelnaw1243 I didn't have to pay anything I made my own stack, I'm just not going to support a system that was built designs to take advantage of how easy something could be and then purposely making it difficult for the free version and then offering a paid package to explain it and offer it in a more understandable fashion
@@johngelnaw1243 oh and by the way thread boards is better than multiboard hands down if I would pay for any of them it would be that one, and honeycomb storage wall is the best period
Beer, pretzels and 3D printing.
I like your style!
Cool concept. Keep up thr work👌
Awesome! I am currently waiting on my first 3D printer to be delivered this weekend😊! I for sure could use these grids to organize some stuff!
Good luck and have fun! Which printer did you go with?
@@dougdoesstuff24 I got a Anycubuc 2 Kobe’s Neo. But with the Microsoft crash, it’s coming in later than normal.😢
My first Multiboard setup was a total of 12 8*8 squares, the second is 3*3, and the next one I'm printing now is 5*4, and may be 5*5 if it will fit :) They are so versatile
I've printed a few "scrapers" in PLA to remove prints and I find that they do a decent job without scratching the print bed. Yeah they aren't as durable, but its a quick print and you can just print a new one when needed. Its been over a month since I printed my first 2 and I haven't had to print more. Something to keep in mind. Ive looked into printing this system, thanks for the share.
@@elove8 second this! I printed one and it's been great won't scratch the bed
I just print one at a time and all of them have nice PEI surface. Cool subsystem.
I personally do love only the very first Ender 3. All other modifications have their downsides. Why Creality would not polish the very first model and call it Ender 3 DIY is a mystery for me. Prusa have printer KIT and as far as I know it have its popularity.
And I already posted under the other video. The very first Ender 3 is very easy to maintain and upgrade, it really need some tuning, but after that it just prints. I am going to install POM Z nut so I will not need to grease it anymore. Needless to say in a two years I never greased it though = )
And it can print really fast, may be not so fast as a Bambu models, but 'cmon, its $100 printer which was created like 7 years ago or so. And Bambu printers are top notch and have quite a cost.
Doing the same 4 stack on my K1 Max and it's going to take 24hrs, and I thought that was too long lol. Still using my Creality CR10 as the "parts" printer, and it's doing 15hr prints at about the same speed as the Ender 3 Pro. The biggest thing about both these printers is the removeable spring steel built plate - it's a game changer for removing prints from the bed, even really small ones come off so easy.
It is a long print for sure, but it was coming out very nice. All the damn upgrades I did ended up being downgrades in quality. ugh
@@dougdoesstuff24 yeah quality is primary when you have things you see each and every day. At times I want to get another printer to get these jobs done quicker, but I might just have to dust off the old CR10-S5 and get it working on some of the items as well. I think I have 3 weeks of printing left just for the next multi board project, then I want to start on the tool storage
I saw the multiboard guys video. he does it by putting a PETG layer between the PLA 8x8 prints. means you need one of those fancy bambool ab multi filament printers.
I am trying to see if i can do this on my ender 3. and good to see you have done it. I am tired of printing one at a time every 5 hours. please share your tips on how to achieve this stack on a ender3 like printer and what settings would help with separating the prints
Honestly, before I went about messing with my E3Pro it was printing solid as you could see in the videos. When I tried the darn Sprite extruder SE is when my problems started. I just had a basic cura normal profile with a few changes to walls and ironing and it was working.
My .2MM layer height 40% infill profile can print this in under 22 hours on a bone stock Ender 3 pro. I highly encourage you to look into tuning your slicer profile by hand as the default settings are FAR too conservative. Though my profile prints over twice as fast, the prints are able to retain the majority of the strength compared to default.
That's good to know. What is your print speed? No mods?
print speed 60mm/s. But just changing your print speed will not make you print much faster
This is so underrated
Get yourself a printer with a removable spring steel build plate. You’ll wonder why you didn’t do it sooner, I promise you.
better yet just get a Magnetic print surface for this printer
My print bed arrived warped, so I clipped on a treated glass plate to provide a flat surface. One day I'll replace the bed, but for now magnetic or spring steel build plates lead to unsustainable print failures for me.
Im getting a ender 3 v2 today and sole purpose was to make this. Did you come up with better settings?
I don't yet. Still tinkering
2 days to print that is insane, I think my mostly stock sidewinder X2 could do that in 8 hours or so, I suggest you speed up the print head, get a 0.6mm nozzle which will let you set the layer height to 0.5mm which is awesome for churning out stuff like this
I'm new to the 3d printing realm. I'll have to dig in and see where I can speed it up. Thanks for the info
Careful with that advice-- first, the stacks are designed for 0.2mm layer height. The "gap" between layers is 0.2mm. Also, the recommended print is 3 walls, and about 15% infill. On my Bambu X1C, "mostly" default settings, a stack takes 11 hours. The first three layers have ironing enabled for top surfaces.
Also, unusually on the multiboard, each hole (big and little) is threaded. This means you can thread in pegs, connectors, etc., but it also means that each hole is threaded, and I haven't tested how large layer heights work on multiboard.
@@johngelnaw1243 Hey there. Thanks for chiming in. I did see that about the .2 layer height. I have no intention of changing nozzles until I figure this thing out. Again, thank you!
Great to see this video! Congratulations on the new printer. Do you use Orca Slicer?
No, I use Cura. As I get into the hobby that might change
@@dougdoesstuff24 Nice! If you end up moving to Orca Slicer, OctoPrint, or have any questions please let me know I'm also newish to it but have compiled marlin after installing a direct drive Revo nozzle. Always happy to help maybe some of my failures could save you some time. I'm thinking about trying the multi board and appreciate you sharing
@RandoTechNerd will do. Got another video coming out tonight. I picked up a sonic pad and it's crazy fast
Damn, do you usually have the printer printing right next to you as you work on the computer?? Or did you move it there just for the video?
I have 4 printers in my office what's wrong with that
I just moved it there for now because of how long it was going to take. BUT, since I did the motherboard upgrade on it, it is VERY quiet. I could tolerate it if I had to. The original motherboard was so loud and could be heard from anywhere.
wow 9x9 tiles take 3 hours for me to print per tile that long for just 4 ouch
The life of owning an Ender 3. I am sure I could bump up speeds, but I don't want to at the cost of quality.
this is nothing to a true printer
What is multiboard = the 3D printed organization system based off of others that have already existed that tries to take advantage of packages that make it easier to understand the system to make money, that sums it up in the nutshell, ohh and uses the license two stranglehold makers on what they can and cannot recreate lol..........................
so you're a gridfinity guy ;)
@@dougdoesstuff24 nope honeycomb storage wall cuz its free and remixable and the creator didnt create it to take advantage of people to make a buck and claim its FREE
@@NoMercyFtw Yeah, that $5 I paid for access to all the stack models nearly bankrupted me. Multiboard is also remixable, but you can't claim it's your own work. And you can't sell it (without a license). What a burden.
I evaluated most of the available storage wall options-- and multiboard wins hands down, and by a country mile. It's pegboard compatible, it supports connectors, it holds a LOT more weight than HSW, and personal peeve, I don't have to put my snaps diagonally.
I do think the starter package should be free, though.
@@johngelnaw1243 I didn't have to pay anything I made my own stack, I'm just not going to support a system that was built designs to take advantage of how easy something could be and then purposely making it difficult for the free version and then offering a paid package to explain it and offer it in a more understandable fashion
@@johngelnaw1243 oh and by the way thread boards is better than multiboard hands down if I would pay for any of them it would be that one, and honeycomb storage wall is the best period
Gloves.
Get a A1 much better experience