I received my 0.4 Prusa XL recently, and so far without any tweaking I havent had any banding, stringing, or toolhead errors. It seems like they've been steadily improving the reliability and I'm impressed with how well it works now.
@@21area21 Lol. Senior moment. I didn't get the whole question out either. This should have been an thread comment not a reply. I wanted to ask TGK3D if he had the smaller nozzles.
This is the first machine of its kind, and one of the first ones delivered as well. If you want something battle tested, then you should always wait for other people to test it rather than go by hype. This isn't unique to Prusa, every company goes through this unless the design is so ubiquitous that there is nothing to get wrong with it.
@@carlosjosejimenezbermudez9255 E3D released theirs years ago and there are also some open source takes on tool changing. Un aligned Toolheads should not even be in a beta test product. That's like the number one thing a toolchanger needs to be good at. I am glad that many things are just software problems but i am also worried that there might be some more hardware related problems that degrade quality that will be harder to upgrade later. My guess is that prusa is also somewhat relying on the community to find bugs and suggestions. The greasing is one such thing he found and prusa added to their docs.
@@carlosjosejimenezbermudez9255 yeah CNC machine with tool head changing..... first of its kinda? bit of stretch there buddy. In-fact its surprising how badly executed Prusa has done an age old design. But you know overpriced 3d parts is just the prusa way
@@DJBigDawg420exactly. Fanboyz will be fanboyz. This is the only thing Prusa has to offer, its half baked. Even Voron is coming w tool head changers. Joseph about to get his lunch ate.
I've had the same docking issue. The cause was the docs were slightly loose. I could manually move the dock ever so slightly and feel it popping in and out of the notch the dock is supposed to be pulled into by the screw. The screw is just barely long enough to catch on the nut side so there's not a lot of friction holding the threads. Blue loctite solved my issue and the docks don't move anymore. Haven't had a tool fall off since.
That was an excellent video. My 2T is producing prints for customers daily and I really regret not getting the 5T to start. Can’t wait for update! Printer has worked very well for me with almost no stringing. Using Polyterra PLA and Prusament.
Unfortunately, any filament saved using the XL is wasted with the sheer amount of failed prints. Sad to see every XL video turns into a trouble shooting session.
Completely agree. Like when creality messed up on the K1s extruder, and provided fix kits for like $1. It shouldn't have even costed that, but that's much better than what prusa did here
Love to see this type of video as I await my own XL. I’m glad it’s getting better and things like the bump hack you put in place are no longer needed. Hoping that by the end of year they really dial this in, but time will tell. Ultimately I’d love to see Bambu x1c speeds and quality just on this device.
The bump hack seems to be unique to his machine, mine never needed such adjustments. I have also never had to grease my 3 alignment pins on the toolhead, and my tool alignment is perfect. I don't have layer shifting, or any kind of over/under extrusion. The XL is not all bad, but it does appear that there is some bad units out there.
Wow, nice in-depth video. I have a prusa Mk3s that makes great prints. What I have been seeing with the XL all over the place is it is almost as dependable as the MK3. I mean every print from most all makers is that there is something wrong in every print. Some small thing that just makes it not sellable to a client but good enough for you not to throw away. It is disappointing .
I still keep trying to see if this printer is actually worth it. For $3500-4000 to print PLA/PETG/TPU in multifilament is insane.(not touching ABS without an enclosure/ventilation) In most of your examples you can get 7 A1 printers with ams lite ($3920) 4 p1s printers with ams ($3800) 2 X1C and 2 A1 printers with AMS/amslite ($4020) Even with the overall speed increase of a single XL vs a single Bambu multicolor print, it wont beat 4-7 printers in any calculation.
yet you could not do what this does even with 100 a1 printers... different tools... not comparable. its like comparing a car to an air fryer by price...
@@LimpiezasMyG Based on this logic it looks like this printer can barely print the models "it's good at printing". 🤣Once this thing starts multifilament printing it's a crap shoot of whether you will have a decent product. 3:36 5:51 7:05 At some point even the successful prints had issues. 10:19 15:21 People have been designing parts on smaller printers for ages to combine into larger prints. Sure there are the models where this could be impossible(Tire) but 4k and 3 days later, can you say that was successful? 19:43? 7 *256 cubed* printers running simultaneously vs 1 360mm cubed But think outside the box not all of these need to be printed at the same time on the same printer. Heck for a large 400mm or 500mm tpu printer can be purchased around $500-$1000 bucks. So you are right different tools for different jobs. But ask yourself this is this the right tool(XL) for most of these jobs?
Cool video. I can understand your frustration with having to order new nozzles for such an expensive and delayed machine. Those problems with the first layer are disappointing.
Amazing video! I love this way of using multi material filaments. It would be incredible if they could implement the use of multi nozzles, such as infill with a 0.6mm and details with 0.2mm; that would be sick. However, most importantly, I hope Prusa can fine-tune the printer soon, as it still feels somewhat unpolished given its price.
Great video, thanks for sharing! I'm very excited to start my multi-material journey! I have a 5-head XL and it has been nothing but AMAZING! I was a 2nd week preorder so I rx'd mine in December with the 0.6mm nozzles. It honestly from the start has been incredible. I have been fortunate to not have experienced many if any at all. The stringing has been pretty mild, but all has been pretty well soved by adjusting temp based on the filament brand and drying my filament a bit more.. This thing is a multicolor BEAST! I have a X1 Carbon and don't get me wrong, it's great, but the TIME & Material I save using the XL it's beyond worth it! I'm having too much fun/success w/the 0.6mm nozzles, so I have yet to swap them out for the 0.4mms, I just stick with the X1C for the more detailed prints. I would LOVE see/grab some of your experiment's G-Code from Printables! Cheers and thanks again!
Thank you! All of the models can be found around the internet on Printables, Thingiverse, etc. I just sliced them with default settings for the most part. If there’s any specific model you want a link to, let me know, but most of them should be easy enough to locate by searching.
Glad to see XL being more polished but still I've got uncompleted 2T XL purchase sitting from december 23 just because I am waiting for the enclosure release. I don't understand why such complex machine at such price tag doesn't have enclosure by default. From my experience enclosure for 360mm3 build volume is mandatory (even for PLA) in cold environment, not optional. If want to thinker I would go for Voron.. I mean 3000$ price tag (incl. shipping + tax) is not thinker machine.
because of 2 reasons 1) the video where joel telling cut off the front of an ender 7, and 2) because jo prusa thought that being able to reach into the printer to take parts out was more important than building a more functionally rigid printer with a proper cube frame that would reduce ringing and make self enclosure easy.
Thank you so much. It confirms that I made the best decision a year ago to cancel my XL order and buy an X1 Carbon. I have several now, and probably for less total than I would have paid for one XL.
This dude assembled his printer wrong and thinks the best course of action is to have his toolheads crash into his frame to self align. I wouldn't trust his opinion.
"This dude" reads the comments and doesn't appreciate this rhetoric. Pretty far off base for a minor assembly issue that I corrected and addressed long ago. The bump solution was the best fix at the time. If you don't trust my opinion, you should probably stop watching my videos ;)
for the docking issue, check the cable bundle of the next tool over. The OEM clips put the cable right in the way of the puppy board cover. At the very least, they rub against each other, and it's worth replacing the clip at the back to avoid that. I wonder if your tool his colliding with the cable bundle enough to cause docking issues.
Extremely happy that I skipped my Prusa XL preorder and shortly before finalizing decided for the Bambu X1C. By far the printer with the least issues I ever had. Just pure printing fun from day 1 and amazing software! Is it perfect? No. But the closest to perfect I got so far. If I see all the issue that first customers had to go through with the XL - I am so happy I skipped that "experience". I was concerned that this machine was far from a "finished" product and raised my concerns in the Prusa Forum. The marketing and media strategy shortly before and at launch ... or better the lack of ... was very sketchy. And one can clearly see why now - because especially at the time they were not confident to have a "finished" product. The idea of the XL is great and I am sure with more time and tweaking Prusa can get there. But in the meantime I enjoy my X1C.
On my X1C, I've found that reducing the print speed of support interface layers to 30mm/s (from 80 default) makes a HUGE difference in PETG/PLA support success. I think of it a little like going slower on the first layer adhering to the build platform - also two different plastics.
I would love this to work well. Running everything through one extruder on the X1C has a few downsides - time, wastage and with the default purge volumes printing black and white will leave grey banding on the white so you have to dial it up even more. On the other hand the X1C just worked right out of the box. I run all kinds of filament, cheap or not, through it with no problems. Thanks for the video.
Regarding the first layer issues, I have found that on my XL the nozzle temperature befor probing the bed was high enough that it caused the nozzle to ooze. The little blop would then be squished while the "cleaning nozzle" step but would sometimes mess up the probing resulting in mostly too high z for the first layer in the locations where the tiny blob was most prominent. I went to the prusa chat which was not very helpful and told me that one has to clean the nozzle every time right befor the probing starts - not befor the print but that one has to stand next to the printer with pliers and right wenn the nozzle goes down to "clean" the nozzle one has to remove the blop. Sometimes this works but not reliable and obviously not when starting a print via prusa connect if you are not home. I since have dropped the temperature befor probing from 170° to 150°C for most materials and do have very good and consistent first layers even though I would appreciate a way to modify the amount of "squished" as the manual way to tune Z on the XL has to be done for every print or at least is not saved when turning the printer off. I also installed the wire brushes at the back of the printer which also help to keep the nozzles clean in the first place. Do you see the blop on your nozzles befor the "nozzle cleaning" or am I an exception? (Using Prusament)
This is exactly what I think is messing with every printer that uses the nozzle to probe. I guess there just is no perfect and 100% reliable way to measure nozzle distance. I have great results with the dock approach, where the toolhead docks a microswitch. But that needs dialed in offsets. My Bambu seems to have no issue this far with a blob on the nozzle, but sometimes the first layer is squished a bit. Maybe with external measurement but that would be way to expensive to put into any hobbyist hardware :D
Thanks for sharing your experience. I have definitely noticed the pre-print ooze. I suspect you’re right about this being the culprit behind poor mesh bed leveling. Lowering the temperature seems like it would prevent oozing, but if the blob already exists, it wouldn’t be hot enough to squish it at the lower temperature I wouldn’t think.
@@ygk3d The MK4 can have this issue as well. You need to make sure the nozzle is clean. During preheat I'll bump the temp up to printing temperature for a few in order to clean the nozzle before the print starts. I print with lots of petg and it's notorious for oozing. For my XL I printed out a brush that mounts to the bed and I plan to insert custom G-Code at the start of the print to wipe the nozzle on it. Check printables, there's a few different designs out there. I printed the one that uses a silicone brush from a Bambu labs printer.
I have a MK4 that I never clean the nozzle before a print and run the stock temperature for cleaning and probing. Only two times had a nozzle cleaning issue. Perfect 1st layer 99.9 percent of the time. Many hundreds of perfect prints. Maybe just luck. But I have not released my 2 year old XL order yet because of the people having so many problems. It does seem to be a mixed bag some bad, some good experiences.
@@benkeller3 That's great. I think the filament being used plays a big part here. Some brands seem to ooze more than others, even after being dried. I'm planning to install a nozzle wiper and put start G-Code in to automatically wipe the nozzle before every print.
Also when I use PLA as support material for PETG and vice versa, I only use the alternate material as an interface layer (or two or three layers usually)… that would definitely help print times and potential adhesion issues. It’s the same way Bambu recommends using their support filaments.
Thanks for this review 👍 I cant believe that a 4000€ printer has this kind of QC I rather buy a Ratrig a Voron and a X1 Carbon altogether for this price and stil not worry of failed prints. I feel your pain...✊
Star shaped prime tower with 5 points so each point has a material with a minor interlock so that it stays together. Or allow multiple tower based on the differing prints ie 3 for pla, petg and Pva
Thank you for such a thorough, well balanced review. Both the pros and cons of the printer. Though you pointed out pleny of problems, it's a 3D printer, they are not as simple as a toaster or the like. Now I know most of it's faults, I definetely want one.
On your short I suggested anchoring the hub to the tire with very thin cylinder - much like how 3d print bunny does her tensegritty models. If they’re are 0.6mm wide you could snip off and probably not notice them in final cleanup.
@6:20 On bambu printers, you can print by object, instead of layer, but this requires the pieces to fit on the bed and the pieces to be small enough that the print head doesn't hit the print.
Not sure how support work in Prusa slicer for multilateral and support. In orca you can print all support in same material as the model it self and just use petg or something else and the interface layer on the support. It saves time in tool changes or material changes.
The bed levelling issue is because the nozzle leaks filament while levelling, chang 17:14 changing the idle temp in the start gcode to 100C fixes ir permanently. Also the PEI seems to be the only good plate for pla, the same gcode on satin sheet warped for me. We are sharing a lot of the issues, really disappointing launch.
Whenever I have a fulfillment run-out on my Bambu P1P the bed stays hot even for days (I just use the extra heat for filament drying). Then I just replace spool and push the new fulfillment in the PTFE feed tube and punch the "GO" > arrow and it never misses a beat. Prints are always perfect. I am SO happy the P1P was my first 3D printer. I am spoiled rotten for only $499.95 - P.S. I bough a Mylar grow tent and I keep my P1P and store extra unused fulfillment in the tent. Nice Enclosure for $29.95
I'm currently on a deep dive researching for my first printer. I'll likely get one much more budget friendly to start, with the Prusa XL 5 nozzle being my end goal. Your videos have been super helpful to teach me how to deal with surprise issues. I'm very curious though, with the purge tower not working very well with different filament types, is it even remotely possible to program it to have a separate prime tower for each type of filament?
Glad to hear. Thanks for watching. I don’t believe that’s possible but that’s a good idea - would certainly help. Perhaps that will get implemented in the future.
In my experience with Mk3s PLA is always unreliable on textured PEI. Satin and smooth PEI are both much better. My guess is that your switch to the satin plate would've solved your adhesion problems even without the glue stick.
2 things. Best print, I like the MASK. Looks clean and really shows the capabilities of the XL with no explanation needed, kind of the wow factor . The prime tower would be great if you could just make a REAL print with it, not the tower. If you are making a lizard just make one you want and the other in the tower material not caring where the colors land. Could make usable parts with the tower material if able to tell it what it is supposed to be instead of a tower.
Im sure there have been other comments of converting a gcode back to stl(ish) such as voxelizer, prusa slicer preview -> save toolpath as stl, as well as using Microsoft 3d builder.
really cool showcase of the goods and the bars. Really helps me understand the pros and cons vs my X1C w dual AMS. I’d love it if I could print that possum but on the other hand I love how the AMS can auto switch spools when one runs out. As usual “do both” (have XL and X1C) is a good move hehe
have you retightened your screws after running the machine for a while after your first assembly? your output is so much worse off than my set for whatever reason
The nozzle probing is really a cause of failure. As the nozzle is heated during probing, in my case a slight amount of filament oozes out of the nozzle. When I notice this, I try to remove it from the nozzle tip with a pair of tweezers. I also modified the start gcode to park the tool head during heat absorbtion. Some of the filament also oozes on the print bed, when the tool head stays over the print bed. in nearly 50% of the prints, this causes the nozzle cleaning to fail. This seems to apply more to PETG than PLA.
For multiple objects of differing colors with Bambu Studio or Orca (idk about PrusaSlicer), you can just print by object, as long as you have room on the plate… no need to separate them to different plates/jobs. Just saying that to make it a more accurate comparison to the XL.
What causes the artefact at the paused layer? Is the plastic deforming? Because the tool itself should not shift in any way, otherwise the tool change would never work properly
You could consider sorting the filament rolls in the Background. Otherwise great results, my personal experience is that wet filament can also mess up the first layer because of leakage through the nozzle.
Is there a way to move the filament run out sensor so its in the print head itself? I feel that it would be much better that way. Other than that thank you for being fair to the printer. You seem to be having a better time with it. I have my eye on it for the multi material capability, not the multi color one but it’s good to be able to do it. The issues with the seam line when you run out of filament is a head scratcher though. I wonder what’s the cause. Also, even on the MK3 I had a harder time with 0.6mm nozzles and I always had to use hair spray. Some things wont change I guess.
The story seems to be the same with every TH-camr that shows their work. This machine is not ready for prime time. For $5K, I don’t want a machine that will be great some day in the future.
Yeah I agree. I think by the time the XL2 comes along, or if Bambu decides to take on multi-toolhead printers, then this technology will be ready. I use to tinker with my MK3s all the time. Ever since getting an X1C, I just use it as a tool. It sits in my closet. I send jobs to it and pick it up later. I don't need to baby sit the printer. It just works. I certainly don't fancy dropping $5k and then have to tinker and worry about it not working in so many scenarios.
$5000? I see them for $2000 what am I missing? Edit: Okay, wow 😮 Prusa has ads that show the XL with all 5 tool heads and the price says $1999. When you click it it shows a partially assembled single extruder model 🤦♂️ fully assembled with 5 extruders is $4000 and I assume shipping isn’t cheap. I actually thought prusa was pricing something reasonably for once. 😂 I was way off, still insane.
As per usual prusa is way over priced for what you get. Also, per usual Prusa fan boys will make any and all excuses to keep pretending prusa is worth the price ever
@@krollmond7544 I’m going to do a long term review of the XL at some point. Also have a RatRig V-Core 4 on the way so will probably do some content around that.
@@fursphere2 IDEX... but even the 1 tool head XL costs more then most IDEX. Then you have AMS systems from Bambu which are good... but downside is they don't support TPU.
@@givemeanameman1 multicolor is not multi tool head. Completely different animals. In the 350mm cubed class corexy machines, I don’t think there is anything, even in single tool head. DIY stuff like Vorons and Ratrigs. But nothing vendor supported like a Prusa.
@@fursphere2 WRONG you say multi "colour" but AMS is multi material. It does the same thing as the Prusa XL... just in a different manner. Prusa XL multi head approach is suppose to provide faster total print speeds with far less waste(poop). The Problem The plastic and time the XL saves per print, is more then lost per failed print vs the X1C with AMS which costs less. Thats not acceptable for a printer thats not a hobbiest printer but priced and aimed as actual production unit for production. People are getting over 80% success rate for larger multi material prints with the X1C over 6 months of use. ~50% success rate with the XL.
Well brand of filament makes absolute a difference. Like me personally I can not print with Prusa filament, I might be so used to crappy filaments that "good" filament from Prusa never works on any of my printers and settings I am used to. Hence the reverse might totally possible, that this printer and sliced settings are Prusa specifig.
Have you done any benchmark testing for part dimensional accuracy and high tolerance fitments of multiple small parts? I use MK3S+ machines at work and they are very accurate, is the XL the same level of accuracy?
It makes me genuinely sad how unpolished the XL has been since launch. I was really hoping to see something as capable as the E3D TC but with the Prusa convenience touch… instead I feel like this thing has the QC of a creality machine with the price tag of a damn Ultimaker.
Nice video. I have the feeling bambulab is coming with a tool changer and it will feature the string detection and the other stuff. It will probably will be a lot better, so i'll wait on that ;-) I'm not paying 3k to be a beta tester.
After watching this, I am really doubting FDM printers in general. I recently switched to resin printing and I am never looking back - the quality and detail is just miles better than FDM printers. It hurst to see, that even the latest printers from company like Prusa can be a big pain in the butt at this age with all of the technological achievements...
love to tool head but I think ill wait for the bambu lab implementation (I'm happy to waist filament in an with the ams given how much more reliable it is)
Having watched 3 reviews of this new machine by people who are very knowledgeable in all things 3D printing, it seems to me the machine should not have been put out for sale as there are still a lot of problems with it. But it is all about get it out and sell to make money. I have 3 machines, but I doubt if my expertise is up to solving the sort of problems this machine seems to have. I would definitely would not consider purchasing one until more of the bugs are sorted out.
It looks like the XL wasn't a ready product and they might have released too soon. At that price point, I was expecting to see alot better results and less hassle from the user. Hopefully Prusa will fix all those downsides and bring a more reliable machine. As a Prusa user (old i3) I wish to see them succeed since I love their open source philosophy and since they aren't Chinese based company but at the same time some competitors are eating them right now when you check cost-value.
Hah, if you think PETg and TPU are about the best bonding together wait until you try TPU and Nylon printed hot... You'll also get much better bonding with more heat between the materials + an enclosure which is an issue with the XL unfortunately. I print PETg and TPU together and the bond is so strong you can't break it across the bond layer even with pliers, the PETG will snap first.
@@ygk3d Yes, TPU and PETG seem to need some serious interface heat - I run as hot as I dare on chamber temps without risking a clog - 45c, and 270c on PETG and 260 on the TPU at the hot end. Both well dried, obviously. That's for mechanical parts that go into car subframe assemblies, so it's under some fair load and enviromental conditions too. You can get the bond strength up much higher with Argon shielding gas through the part cooling duct too (prevents the surface oxidising between the layers) but that has issues with any work area that's not well ventilated and no enclosure. Nylon and TPU form a copolymer the interface gets strange, it almost mixes into a 3rd material.
In recent prints, now that most of the issues are worked out, the quality is similar. Tool changing will always reduce layer stacking quality, so in that regard it’s not quite as good.
@@MOVIEKICKS not layer shifts. Just layer stacking that isn’t quite as consistent. It’s only noticeable if you look close. For most purposes, it’s fine. The early examples I showed in this video aren’t representative of the true print quality. Those had early adopter issues that have since been resolved. The only time I’m seeing actual layer shifts is during filament changes. Hopefully that can be resolved with a firmware update.
Well if it makes you feel any better about the nozzles, i bought 5 .4mm nozzles when they were in sale, to then find out that my printer was coming with them. Oh well, i have spares now.
@@ygk3d Just Brass. I've had good luck with them over the years. I don't really print much that requires a hardend nozzle. If I got 1 I probably would only get it for 1 print head.
Please repeat this but only using PETG on the interface of the supports and using standard supports instead of the tree ones, or adding 7.5% infil to the support trees. The problem with big tree supports is that they bend easily affecting the structure, you just need to find a better support configuration for dual material supports when printing bigger structures... Damn, I really wish I can convert my CR-10 to IDEX to make the complex prints I need 😞
In my experience you should never support Threads when. They always look and work better without it for me 10:46 In my experience its PC and ABS, they work well together and are often even used together in the same Filament.
One things for SURE... If I paid $4000 for a Prusa XL I'd expect much better results 100% of the time. With the team of engineers at Prusa Research there's no excuse for the problems this printer has been having since the beginning. I just don't understand why Big Joe's team isn't STILL WORKING 24/7/365 to have this thing working better than it does.
I wonder if closed loop steppers could help with some of the artifacts from running out of filament and having to swap in some new stuff. Clised loop steppers are somrthing i am really wanting to get into.
There is no reason closed loop steppers should be necessary, when changing filament you should only be touching the hot end and hence only the X and Y steppers should be touched, then if your homing is as reliable as it should be then you should just be able to home and then carry on printing with no artefacts. Going to closed loop steppers sounds like upgrading parts to fix a problem that could be solved with just a better built printer.
I received my 0.4 Prusa XL recently, and so far without any tweaking I havent had any banding, stringing, or toolhead errors. It seems like they've been steadily improving the reliability and I'm impressed with how well it works now.
Do you have he .4mm or .6mm nozzles?
@@ashleys3dprintshop it was the 4th word in his comment bud.
@@ashleys3dprintshop I have the 0.4mm nozzles
@@21area21 Lol. Senior moment. I didn't get the whole question out either.
This should have been an thread comment not a reply. I wanted to ask TGK3D if he had the smaller nozzles.
@@ashleys3dprintshop oh shit. Mb on my kinda aggressive reply lol. 😅
It still feels like you're beta testing this product in public.
This is the first machine of its kind, and one of the first ones delivered as well. If you want something battle tested, then you should always wait for other people to test it rather than go by hype.
This isn't unique to Prusa, every company goes through this unless the design is so ubiquitous that there is nothing to get wrong with it.
@@carlosjosejimenezbermudez9255 E3D released theirs years ago and there are also some open source takes on tool changing. Un aligned Toolheads should not even be in a beta test product. That's like the number one thing a toolchanger needs to be good at. I am glad that many things are just software problems but i am also worried that there might be some more hardware related problems that degrade quality that will be harder to upgrade later.
My guess is that prusa is also somewhat relying on the community to find bugs and suggestions. The greasing is one such thing he found and prusa added to their docs.
@@carlosjosejimenezbermudez9255 yeah CNC machine with tool head changing..... first of its kinda? bit of stretch there buddy. In-fact its surprising how badly executed Prusa has done an age old design. But you know overpriced 3d parts is just the prusa way
@@DJBigDawg420exactly. Fanboyz will be fanboyz. This is the only thing Prusa has to offer, its half baked. Even Voron is coming w tool head changers. Joseph about to get his lunch ate.
This. Its is insane to how bad this printer is. Print quality is from Ender3 era, even filament run out handling not working properly...
I‘m glad prusa managed to reduce the amount of waste on the color/material change, considering the amount of waste created with all the failed prints…
Seriously impressive overview of the capabilities of the printer and the issues you faced. Nice work!
Thank you my friend. Much appreciated!
I've had the same docking issue. The cause was the docs were slightly loose. I could manually move the dock ever so slightly and feel it popping in and out of the notch the dock is supposed to be pulled into by the screw. The screw is just barely long enough to catch on the nut side so there's not a lot of friction holding the threads. Blue loctite solved my issue and the docks don't move anymore. Haven't had a tool fall off since.
Just be careful with loctite as it makes plastics become brittle!
Opossum is the best print! The head looks awesome!
That was an excellent video. My 2T is producing prints for customers daily and I really regret not getting the 5T to start. Can’t wait for update!
Printer has worked very well for me with almost no stringing. Using Polyterra PLA and Prusament.
Thank you!
I don’t know if you have done this yet, but you can now buy upgrade kits from prusa to get 5T.
Unfortunately, any filament saved using the XL is wasted with the sheer amount of failed prints. Sad to see every XL video turns into a trouble shooting session.
Its funny Prusa used to be the set it and forget it brand and now Bambulab has completely overtaken it in that regard.
Prusa should ship out .4mm nozzles to all the early purchasers who got the .6mm nozzles or give store credit for the same amount.
they are discounted
Completely agree. Like when creality messed up on the K1s extruder, and provided fix kits for like $1. It shouldn't have even costed that, but that's much better than what prusa did here
Love to see this type of video as I await my own XL. I’m glad it’s getting better and things like the bump hack you put in place are no longer needed. Hoping that by the end of year they really dial this in, but time will tell. Ultimately I’d love to see Bambu x1c speeds and quality just on this device.
The bump hack seems to be unique to his machine, mine never needed such adjustments. I have also never had to grease my 3 alignment pins on the toolhead, and my tool alignment is perfect. I don't have layer shifting, or any kind of over/under extrusion. The XL is not all bad, but it does appear that there is some bad units out there.
Wow, nice in-depth video. I have a prusa Mk3s that makes great prints. What I have been seeing with the XL all over the place is it is almost as dependable as the MK3. I mean every print from most all makers is that there is something wrong in every print. Some small thing that just makes it not sellable to a client but good enough for you not to throw away. It is disappointing .
Great video. I liked the story you told and how you presented the progression. I've been watching XL related items and felt this was worth the watch.
Thank you very much!
I still keep trying to see if this printer is actually worth it. For $3500-4000 to print PLA/PETG/TPU in multifilament is insane.(not touching ABS without an enclosure/ventilation)
In most of your examples you can get
7 A1 printers with ams lite ($3920)
4 p1s printers with ams ($3800)
2 X1C and 2 A1 printers with AMS/amslite ($4020)
Even with the overall speed increase of a single XL vs a single Bambu multicolor print, it wont beat 4-7 printers in any calculation.
yet you could not do what this does even with 100 a1 printers... different tools... not comparable. its like comparing a car to an air fryer by price...
@@LimpiezasMyG Based on this logic it looks like this printer can barely print the models "it's good at printing". 🤣Once this thing starts multifilament printing it's a crap shoot of whether you will have a decent product. 3:36 5:51 7:05
At some point even the successful prints had issues. 10:19 15:21
People have been designing parts on smaller printers for ages to combine into larger prints. Sure there are the models where this could be impossible(Tire) but 4k and 3 days later, can you say that was successful? 19:43?
7 *256 cubed* printers running simultaneously vs 1 360mm cubed
But think outside the box not all of these need to be printed at the same time on the same printer.
Heck for a large 400mm or 500mm tpu printer can be purchased around $500-$1000 bucks. So you are right different tools for different jobs. But ask yourself this is this the right tool(XL) for most of these jobs?
@@No0o0o0o0o0 I agree. The amount of failures for a printer of this cost is just crazy.
If you dont mind sending a copy of every creation you make to China.. go Bambu.. If you care go Prusa....
Cool video. I can understand your frustration with having to order new nozzles for such an expensive and delayed machine. Those problems with the first layer are disappointing.
holy moly, great video man, i watch from strat till end without skipping / speed play back, you make the topic more interesting
Thank you very much!
Amazing video! I love this way of using multi material filaments. It would be incredible if they could implement the use of multi nozzles, such as infill with a 0.6mm and details with 0.2mm; that would be sick. However, most importantly, I hope Prusa can fine-tune the printer soon, as it still feels somewhat unpolished given its price.
Thank you!
Great video, thanks for sharing! I'm very excited to start my multi-material journey! I have a 5-head XL and it has been nothing but AMAZING! I was a 2nd week preorder so I rx'd mine in December with the 0.6mm nozzles. It honestly from the start has been incredible. I have been fortunate to not have experienced many if any at all. The stringing has been pretty mild, but all has been pretty well soved by adjusting temp based on the filament brand and drying my filament a bit more..
This thing is a multicolor BEAST! I have a X1 Carbon and don't get me wrong, it's great, but the TIME & Material I save using the XL it's beyond worth it! I'm having too much fun/success w/the 0.6mm nozzles, so I have yet to swap them out for the 0.4mms, I just stick with the X1C for the more detailed prints.
I would LOVE see/grab some of your experiment's G-Code from Printables!
Cheers and thanks again!
Thank you! All of the models can be found around the internet on Printables, Thingiverse, etc. I just sliced them with default settings for the most part. If there’s any specific model you want a link to, let me know, but most of them should be easy enough to locate by searching.
Glad to see XL being more polished but still I've got uncompleted 2T XL purchase sitting from december 23 just because I am waiting for the enclosure release. I don't understand why such complex machine at such price tag doesn't have enclosure by default. From my experience enclosure for 360mm3 build volume is mandatory (even for PLA) in cold environment, not optional. If want to thinker I would go for Voron.. I mean 3000$ price tag (incl. shipping + tax) is not thinker machine.
because of 2 reasons 1) the video where joel telling cut off the front of an ender 7, and 2) because jo prusa thought that being able to reach into the printer to take parts out was more important than building a more functionally rigid printer with a proper cube frame that would reduce ringing and make self enclosure easy.
Nice video. Appreciate your insights and tips.
Thank you!
Yyyyyyyup...looking more and more like an XL with two heads will be the successor to my beloved Ender. It's just SO sick!!
This is the best video on the XL I’ve watched so far.
Thank you so much. It confirms that I made the best decision a year ago to cancel my XL order and buy an X1 Carbon. I have several now, and probably for less total than I would have paid for one XL.
I canceled my mk4 order, got a bambu also, havent looked back, have an A1 mini w 4 color ams also for less than the Prusa offering.
@@tombo7719bambu is 🤴 right now!
This dude assembled his printer wrong and thinks the best course of action is to have his toolheads crash into his frame to self align. I wouldn't trust his opinion.
@@LilApe can you show where it was not assembled correctly. Thank you
"This dude" reads the comments and doesn't appreciate this rhetoric. Pretty far off base for a minor assembly issue that I corrected and addressed long ago. The bump solution was the best fix at the time. If you don't trust my opinion, you should probably stop watching my videos ;)
Appreciate your thorough reviews and experimentations ! thanks
Thank you!
for the docking issue, check the cable bundle of the next tool over. The OEM clips put the cable right in the way of the puppy board cover. At the very least, they rub against each other, and it's worth replacing the clip at the back to avoid that. I wonder if your tool his colliding with the cable bundle enough to cause docking issues.
Thanks! I’ll give that a shot.
@@ygk3d I printed the "Prusa XL series: Cable protecting toolbase clip (must have)" by surfalex2000 (along with other models of his for the XL).
Extremely happy that I skipped my Prusa XL preorder and shortly before finalizing decided for the Bambu X1C. By far the printer with the least issues I ever had. Just pure printing fun from day 1 and amazing software! Is it perfect? No. But the closest to perfect I got so far. If I see all the issue that first customers had to go through with the XL - I am so happy I skipped that "experience". I was concerned that this machine was far from a "finished" product and raised my concerns in the Prusa Forum. The marketing and media strategy shortly before and at launch ... or better the lack of ... was very sketchy. And one can clearly see why now - because especially at the time they were not confident to have a "finished" product. The idea of the XL is great and I am sure with more time and tweaking Prusa can get there. But in the meantime I enjoy my X1C.
The video is of exceptional quality and provides intricate details. I express my gratitude for your contribution.
Thank you very much!
On my X1C, I've found that reducing the print speed of support interface layers to 30mm/s (from 80 default) makes a HUGE difference in PETG/PLA support success. I think of it a little like going slower on the first layer adhering to the build platform - also two different plastics.
Interesting. I’ll have to try that. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you for your hard work on all of this. Great job!
Thank you very much!
I would love this to work well. Running everything through one extruder on the X1C has a few downsides - time, wastage and with the default purge volumes printing black and white will leave grey banding on the white so you have to dial it up even more. On the other hand the X1C just worked right out of the box. I run all kinds of filament, cheap or not, through it with no problems. Thanks for the video.
@8:12 can you have each extruder create its own tower so that there is no conflict between material types ?
Regarding the first layer issues, I have found that on my XL the nozzle temperature befor probing the bed was high enough that it caused the nozzle to ooze. The little blop would then be squished while the "cleaning nozzle" step but would sometimes mess up the probing resulting in mostly too high z for the first layer in the locations where the tiny blob was most prominent. I went to the prusa chat which was not very helpful and told me that one has to clean the nozzle every time right befor the probing starts - not befor the print but that one has to stand next to the printer with pliers and right wenn the nozzle goes down to "clean" the nozzle one has to remove the blop. Sometimes this works but not reliable and obviously not when starting a print via prusa connect if you are not home.
I since have dropped the temperature befor probing from 170° to 150°C for most materials and do have very good and consistent first layers even though I would appreciate a way to modify the amount of "squished" as the manual way to tune Z on the XL has to be done for every print or at least is not saved when turning the printer off. I also installed the wire brushes at the back of the printer which also help to keep the nozzles clean in the first place.
Do you see the blop on your nozzles befor the "nozzle cleaning" or am I an exception? (Using Prusament)
This is exactly what I think is messing with every printer that uses the nozzle to probe. I guess there just is no perfect and 100% reliable way to measure nozzle distance.
I have great results with the dock approach, where the toolhead docks a microswitch. But that needs dialed in offsets. My Bambu seems to have no issue this far with a blob on the nozzle, but sometimes the first layer is squished a bit.
Maybe with external measurement but that would be way to expensive to put into any hobbyist hardware :D
Thanks for sharing your experience. I have definitely noticed the pre-print ooze. I suspect you’re right about this being the culprit behind poor mesh bed leveling. Lowering the temperature seems like it would prevent oozing, but if the blob already exists, it wouldn’t be hot enough to squish it at the lower temperature I wouldn’t think.
@@ygk3d The MK4 can have this issue as well. You need to make sure the nozzle is clean. During preheat I'll bump the temp up to printing temperature for a few in order to clean the nozzle before the print starts. I print with lots of petg and it's notorious for oozing.
For my XL I printed out a brush that mounts to the bed and I plan to insert custom G-Code at the start of the print to wipe the nozzle on it. Check printables, there's a few different designs out there. I printed the one that uses a silicone brush from a Bambu labs printer.
I have a MK4 that I never clean the nozzle before a print and run the stock temperature for cleaning and probing. Only two times had a nozzle cleaning issue. Perfect 1st layer 99.9 percent of the time. Many hundreds of perfect prints. Maybe just luck. But I have not released my 2 year old XL order yet because of the people having so many problems. It does seem to be a mixed bag some bad, some good experiences.
@@benkeller3 That's great. I think the filament being used plays a big part here. Some brands seem to ooze more than others, even after being dried.
I'm planning to install a nozzle wiper and put start G-Code in to automatically wipe the nozzle before every print.
16:25 that is so unacceptable with the wait times especially
Also when I use PLA as support material for PETG and vice versa, I only use the alternate material as an interface layer (or two or three layers usually)… that would definitely help print times and potential adhesion issues. It’s the same way Bambu recommends using their support filaments.
Thanks for this review 👍 I cant believe that a 4000€ printer has this kind of QC I rather buy a Ratrig a Voron and a X1 Carbon altogether for this price and stil not worry of failed prints. I feel your pain...✊
Nice video! I changed to 0.4 nozzles on my 5 tool head XL. I’ve had no problems with mine.
Star shaped prime tower with 5 points so each point has a material with a minor interlock so that it stays together. Or allow multiple tower based on the differing prints ie 3 for pla, petg and Pva
It’s something I could use for my terrain making. I would be able to print in one shot multi-material working mechanism.
Thank you for such a thorough, well balanced review. Both the pros and cons of the printer. Though you pointed out pleny of problems, it's a 3D printer, they are not as simple as a toaster or the like. Now I know most of it's faults, I definetely want one.
I am so glad you included a Wilhelm scream.
On your short I suggested anchoring the hub to the tire with very thin cylinder - much like how 3d print bunny does her tensegritty models. If they’re are 0.6mm wide you could snip off and probably not notice them in final cleanup.
17:10 - how is the frame stiffness? Seeing this move has me a bit concerned.
@6:20 On bambu printers, you can print by object, instead of layer, but this requires the pieces to fit on the bed and the pieces to be small enough that the print head doesn't hit the print.
Not saying it's better, just putting out another option for people who don't know.
How tf has this have anything to do with bambu? it's a slicer feature that's also in many other slicers.
Not sure how support work in Prusa slicer for multilateral and support. In orca you can print all support in same material as the model it self and just use petg or something else and the interface layer on the support. It saves time in tool changes or material changes.
The bed levelling issue is because the nozzle leaks filament while levelling, chang 17:14 changing the idle temp in the start gcode to 100C fixes ir permanently. Also the PEI seems to be the only good plate for pla, the same gcode on satin sheet warped for me.
We are sharing a lot of the issues, really disappointing launch.
Your advice here is very helpful. Thanks for doing all this testing. I want to try that possum if I can find the model.
You’re welcome. Thanks for watching. The possum is from MatMire Makes.
Whenever I have a fulfillment run-out on my Bambu P1P the bed stays hot even for days (I just use the extra heat for filament drying). Then I just replace spool and push the new fulfillment in the PTFE feed tube and punch the "GO" > arrow and it never misses a beat. Prints are always perfect. I am SO happy the P1P was my first 3D printer. I am spoiled rotten for only $499.95 - P.S. I bough a Mylar grow tent and I keep my P1P and store extra unused fulfillment in the tent. Nice Enclosure for $29.95
I'm currently on a deep dive researching for my first printer. I'll likely get one much more budget friendly to start, with the Prusa XL 5 nozzle being my end goal. Your videos have been super helpful to teach me how to deal with surprise issues. I'm very curious though, with the purge tower not working very well with different filament types, is it even remotely possible to program it to have a separate prime tower for each type of filament?
Glad to hear. Thanks for watching. I don’t believe that’s possible but that’s a good idea - would certainly help. Perhaps that will get implemented in the future.
I wonder if the tool dock issues or collisions cause drift in the XY alignment (or will eventually cause issues) 🤔
Did you print with the Prusa stock/generic Filament profiles or did you calibrations like flow and K-value?
In my experience with Mk3s PLA is always unreliable on textured PEI. Satin and smooth PEI are both much better. My guess is that your switch to the satin plate would've solved your adhesion problems even without the glue stick.
2 things. Best print, I like the MASK. Looks clean and really shows the capabilities of the XL with no explanation needed, kind of the wow factor . The prime tower would be great if you could just make a REAL print with it, not the tower. If you are making a lizard just make one you want and the other in the tower material not caring where the colors land. Could make usable parts with the tower material if able to tell it what it is supposed to be instead of a tower.
you can do a model instead of a prime tower... it will be just color mixed
Im sure there have been other comments of converting a gcode back to stl(ish) such as voxelizer, prusa slicer preview -> save toolpath as stl, as well as using Microsoft 3d builder.
Good tips, thanks!
really cool showcase of the goods and the bars. Really helps me understand the pros and cons vs my X1C w dual AMS. I’d love it if I could print that possum but on the other hand I love how the AMS can auto switch spools when one runs out.
As usual “do both” (have XL and X1C) is a good move hehe
Thank you! 😊
Do you think a heated chamber would create better prints?
have you retightened your screws after running the machine for a while after your first assembly? your output is so much worse off than my set for whatever reason
Which screws are you referring to? The early prints I showed were before the z banding fix. In the later prints the quality is much better.
great summary, I also get imperfect first layers that would be fine for many other printers but are not what they promised.
The nozzle probing is really a cause of failure. As the nozzle is heated during probing, in my case a slight amount of filament oozes out of the nozzle. When I notice this, I try to remove it from the nozzle tip with a pair of tweezers. I also modified the start gcode to park the tool head during heat absorbtion. Some of the filament also oozes on the print bed, when the tool head stays over the print bed. in nearly 50% of the prints, this causes the nozzle cleaning to fail. This seems to apply more to PETG than PLA.
For multiple objects of differing colors with Bambu Studio or Orca (idk about PrusaSlicer), you can just print by object, as long as you have room on the plate… no need to separate them to different plates/jobs. Just saying that to make it a more accurate comparison to the XL.
What causes the artefact at the paused layer? Is the plastic deforming? Because the tool itself should not shift in any way, otherwise the tool change would never work properly
You could consider sorting the filament rolls in the Background. Otherwise great results, my personal experience is that wet filament can also mess up the first layer because of leakage through the nozzle.
how do you deal with cooling on petg supports with pla ? my petg dose not stick with pla
Wow very detailed explanation thank you for sharing!
Thank you!
How do you tell the slicer to use a specific toolhead (filament) for support
Is there a way to move the filament run out sensor so its in the print head itself? I feel that it would be much better that way.
Other than that thank you for being fair to the printer. You seem to be having a better time with it.
I have my eye on it for the multi material capability, not the multi color one but it’s good to be able to do it.
The issues with the seam line when you run out of filament is a head scratcher though. I wonder what’s the cause.
Also, even on the MK3 I had a harder time with 0.6mm nozzles and I always had to use hair spray. Some things wont change I guess.
great video, could the Prusa LX print carbon fiber filament?
@@geor1036 thanks! That would require switching the nozzles. It comes with brass by default.
@@ygk3d thank for the fast response what kind of nozzle, Steel?
I have the same issue with the perfect 1st layer. It is really not perfect unfortunately..
8:28 what is all that on the build plate?
Support material that has been removed.
The story seems to be the same with every TH-camr that shows their work. This machine is not ready for prime time. For $5K, I don’t want a machine that will be great some day in the future.
Yeah I agree. I think by the time the XL2 comes along, or if Bambu decides to take on multi-toolhead printers, then this technology will be ready. I use to tinker with my MK3s all the time. Ever since getting an X1C, I just use it as a tool. It sits in my closet. I send jobs to it and pick it up later. I don't need to baby sit the printer. It just works. I certainly don't fancy dropping $5k and then have to tinker and worry about it not working in so many scenarios.
@@shenqiangshouBambu will never do a multi toolhead setup, and if tgey do, they'll wait for a reliable version to be on the market first
$5000? I see them for $2000 what am I missing? Edit: Okay, wow 😮 Prusa has ads that show the XL with all 5 tool heads and the price says $1999. When you click it it shows a partially assembled single extruder model 🤦♂️ fully assembled with 5 extruders is $4000 and I assume shipping isn’t cheap. I actually thought prusa was pricing something reasonably for once. 😂 I was way off, still insane.
As per usual prusa is way over priced for what you get. Also, per usual Prusa fan boys will make any and all excuses to keep pretending prusa is worth the price ever
The a1 mini is most impressive thing in the video
😂
Makes me so eager to get mine in April!
I wonder if your results would've been different if you used fresh new filament??
Are you going to do more videos of multi material prints with the XL and/or IDEX Marathon?
@@krollmond7544 I’m going to do a long term review of the XL at some point. Also have a RatRig V-Core 4 on the way so will probably do some content around that.
@ygk3d cool, really appreciate these videos!
@@krollmond7544 thanks! Your support means a lot to me!
Where did you get the spine and hand files? I want to give those a try
Awesome video! Nice job!
Thank you!
On idex I use purge buckets, it solves any purge tower issues.
Prusa XL seems to be a defective printer... its performance does not meet its price.
Are there any other multi-tool head competitors in this space?
@@fursphere2 IDEX... but even the 1 tool head XL costs more then most IDEX. Then you have AMS systems from Bambu which are good... but downside is they don't support TPU.
@@givemeanameman1 multicolor is not multi tool head. Completely different animals.
In the 350mm cubed class corexy machines, I don’t think there is anything, even in single tool head.
DIY stuff like Vorons and Ratrigs. But nothing vendor supported like a Prusa.
Just because there are no other competitors doesn't mean its a good product. In fact, the opposite is probably true.@@fursphere2
@@fursphere2 WRONG you say multi "colour" but AMS is multi material.
It does the same thing as the Prusa XL... just in a different manner.
Prusa XL multi head approach is suppose to provide faster total print speeds with far less waste(poop).
The Problem
The plastic and time the XL saves per print, is more then lost per failed print vs the X1C with AMS which costs less.
Thats not acceptable for a printer thats not a hobbiest printer but priced and aimed as actual production unit for production.
People are getting over 80% success rate for larger multi material prints with the X1C over 6 months of use.
~50% success rate with the XL.
Well brand of filament makes absolute a difference. Like me personally I can not print with Prusa filament, I might be so used to crappy filaments that "good" filament from Prusa never works on any of my printers and settings I am used to. Hence the reverse might totally possible, that this printer and sliced settings are Prusa specifig.
Have you done any benchmark testing for part dimensional accuracy and high tolerance fitments of multiple small parts? I use MK3S+ machines at work and they are very accurate, is the XL the same level of accuracy?
Not yet so can't speak on that unfortunately.
I can't even afford a new creality printer and stuck with a 5 year old e5 and here these guys are with all the new modern tech.
It makes me genuinely sad how unpolished the XL has been since launch. I was really hoping to see something as capable as the E3D TC but with the Prusa convenience touch… instead I feel like this thing has the QC of a creality machine with the price tag of a damn Ultimaker.
That last sentence is brutal but feels so accurate.
Nice video. I have the feeling bambulab is coming with a tool changer and it will feature the string detection and the other stuff. It will probably will be a lot better, so i'll wait on that ;-) I'm not paying 3k to be a beta tester.
After watching this, I am really doubting FDM printers in general. I recently switched to resin printing and I am never looking back - the quality and detail is just miles better than FDM printers. It hurst to see, that even the latest printers from company like Prusa can be a big pain in the butt at this age with all of the technological achievements...
You need an enclosure if Petg come off the sheet bed. It’s convection heat transfer issue.
how much does imput shaper speed up gyroid infill comparid to without input shaper.
love to tool head but I think ill wait for the bambu lab implementation (I'm happy to waist filament in an with the ams given how much more reliable it is)
Having watched 3 reviews of this new machine by people who are very knowledgeable in all things 3D printing, it seems to me the machine should not have been put out for sale as there are still a lot of problems with it. But it is all about get it out and sell to make money. I have 3 machines, but I doubt if my expertise is up to solving the sort of problems this machine seems to have. I would definitely would not consider purchasing one until more of the bugs are sorted out.
Great video, thanks!
It looks like the XL wasn't a ready product and they might have released too soon. At that price point, I was expecting to see alot better results and less hassle from the user. Hopefully Prusa will fix all those downsides and bring a more reliable machine. As a Prusa user (old i3) I wish to see them succeed since I love their open source philosophy and since they aren't Chinese based company but at the same time some competitors are eating them right now when you check cost-value.
I’m waiting for slicers to work with different nozzle sizes on the different tool heads
Sometimes those are not layer shifts, its just the material expanded/contracted from sitting cold for a long time. Ex: the rat is not a layer shift
Ah, good point.
Excellent tests & analysis, very in-depth
Thank you very much!
Hah, if you think PETg and TPU are about the best bonding together wait until you try TPU and Nylon printed hot...
You'll also get much better bonding with more heat between the materials + an enclosure which is an issue with the XL unfortunately. I print PETg and TPU together and the bond is so strong you can't break it across the bond layer even with pliers, the PETG will snap first.
Oooh interesting. Thanks for sharing!
@@ygk3d Yes, TPU and PETG seem to need some serious interface heat - I run as hot as I dare on chamber temps without risking a clog - 45c, and 270c on PETG and 260 on the TPU at the hot end. Both well dried, obviously.
That's for mechanical parts that go into car subframe assemblies, so it's under some fair load and enviromental conditions too.
You can get the bond strength up much higher with Argon shielding gas through the part cooling duct too (prevents the surface oxidising between the layers) but that has issues with any work area that's not well ventilated and no enclosure.
Nylon and TPU form a copolymer the interface gets strange, it almost mixes into a 3rd material.
Thanks for the video! How is the quality and finish of the XL prints compared to the mk4 and X1C?
In recent prints, now that most of the issues are worked out, the quality is similar. Tool changing will always reduce layer stacking quality, so in that regard it’s not quite as good.
@@ygk3d Thank you very much for the feedback! Are you saying there is a noticeable layer shift when changing tools?
@@MOVIEKICKS not layer shifts. Just layer stacking that isn’t quite as consistent. It’s only noticeable if you look close. For most purposes, it’s fine. The early examples I showed in this video aren’t representative of the true print quality. Those had early adopter issues that have since been resolved. The only time I’m seeing actual layer shifts is during filament changes. Hopefully that can be resolved with a firmware update.
this is why i am waiting until the new updated prusa XL, to many tweaks that are needed
Well if it makes you feel any better about the nozzles, i bought 5 .4mm nozzles when they were in sale, to then find out that my printer was coming with them.
Oh well, i have spares now.
Did you buy the ObXidian ones at least? Or just more brass?
@@ygk3d Just Brass. I've had good luck with them over the years. I don't really print much that requires a hardend nozzle. If I got 1 I probably would only get it for 1 print head.
@@ygk3d 5 ObXidian .4mm nozzles here. They've been working extremely well so far.
Get with prusa support and they will credit you back for the nozzles.
Please repeat this but only using PETG on the interface of the supports and using standard supports instead of the tree ones, or adding 7.5% infil to the support trees. The problem with big tree supports is that they bend easily affecting the structure, you just need to find a better support configuration for dual material supports when printing bigger structures...
Damn, I really wish I can convert my CR-10 to IDEX to make the complex prints I need 😞
In my experience you should never support Threads when. They always look and work better without it for me
10:46 In my experience its PC and ABS, they work well together and are often even used together in the same Filament.
Where can I find the mask’s stl ?
Chelsea Creates Things on Thangs.
One things for SURE... If I paid $4000 for a Prusa XL I'd expect much better results 100% of the time. With the team of engineers at Prusa Research there's no excuse for the problems this printer has been having since the beginning. I just don't understand why Big Joe's team isn't STILL WORKING 24/7/365 to have this thing working better than it does.
I wonder if closed loop steppers could help with some of the artifacts from running out of filament and having to swap in some new stuff. Clised loop steppers are somrthing i am really wanting to get into.
There is no reason closed loop steppers should be necessary, when changing filament you should only be touching the hot end and hence only the X and Y steppers should be touched, then if your homing is as reliable as it should be then you should just be able to home and then carry on printing with no artefacts. Going to closed loop steppers sounds like upgrading parts to fix a problem that could be solved with just a better built printer.