Volvo 740 more rust, a drop link and a hammer
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 เม.ย. 2020
- Parcels arrived! Now I can get the Volvo 740's snapped drop link sorted and find some more rust to cut out!
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2:49 Bring out your dead, clang, clang, clang.
Underrated!
Just what I thought. Monty Python Came to mind, "Not Dead Yet" scene, Holy Grail.
Great stuff !
Keep up the good work.
Prefer to watch you or HubNut etc than the rubbish that passes as entertainment on tv.
Appreciate that, Im sure Ian does to!
Man it's so nice to see you working on this car. Makes me wanna take care of my own. Got MOT coming up tomorrow, excited to see what they think of it, fingers crossed!
Your welding beam is a flow of electrons and charged particles . They cannot travel in straight lines when they move through a magnetic field.
Makes sense
Chris Walker true - where I used to work, we had a job fabricating a holder for a grid/sieve thing that had loads of magnets built in. There was no way to TIG it with the grid in place as the arc went everywhere except where it was wanted.
Even though it is keeping you very busy trying to fix all the holes, it is a beautiful beast that Volvo and as you say very cleverly built. Got a Volvo myself; changing bulbs in the headlights is a doddle; pull a pin out and the whole unit slides out. Brilliant design.
Re: Magnets doing weird things to your welding - I use a TIG setup, and I cannot use magnets to hold the metal because it deflects the welding arc! Digestives are the best biscuits! Thanks for another video :-)
Weld spatter in your tea! We’ve all had it.
Not to bad until your mug feels like sand paper.
@@aaronbiggin1103 And then your other half gets annoyed with you...
doesn't do the dishwasher much good either if not rinsed out first.
You are doing some great content at the minute matt I always look forward to them
Glad you like them!
Yes they facelifted the 740 in 1990 - my grandad had one of the first. Only lasted a few years before the 940 came along!
It is quite ironic that the even more iconic 240 out lived it´s successor 740 by one year.
Sir, your videos are a delight in this times. Haven't missed a single video. Greetings from Romania!
Thanks, glad you've enjoyed them!
Be in no doubt Matt. This Gorgeous Volvo will love you back over and over for all your efforts. As for crash structure. A chap slammed into the back of my 1999 V70 at a junction. Result, I could only find a tiny scratch on the Volvo's rear bumper. The other fella's lovely little yellow Daewoo Lanos was a real mess. I felt really terrible for him cos she seemed like his pride and joy.
If one drives a Daewoo Lanos of all cars, he can't be saved anymore....
Memories of wheel arch rot on an 8 year old Viva HB I once had back in the 70s. Unable to weld, so many a Saturday spent on filler and chicken wire repairs. As soon as you did one hole, another bit appeared. A friend had an old Honda Civic mk 1 in the early 80s which had rusted so badly that the body shell actually disintegrated like a clown's car into two bits in the middle whilst driving over a pothole! Things have come on since the bad old days of disintegrating cars, though. Amazingly, My modern 16 year old Fabia has no rust at all - the benefits of modern fully galvanised cars.
This car reminds me of my dad's old 760 Diesel, it got about the same colour. It never failed him, but when he got epilepsy he convinced himself it was a POS as it stood there in the driveway taking up space. Too bad he got rid of it, I liked it.
shame
Halfords are open. Bumper cover is just that so by removal of the clips you should be able to get at the metalwork. Maybe some tweaks would help a bit. A heat gun might reset the shape of the cover.
magnets effect the polarity of welding. ok for tack welding but remove a.s.a.p.
Lovely Jubbly, they did make Volvo's to last.
U do great job doing what we do, trying and learning and googling, thats the nice thing compared with some overpolished programs, as mentioned before in comments! Thx so much! I have a 92 station car no rust
Swivel joint or U-joint are the words of the day. :) So nice to be able to use the impackon most bolts.
That makes life so much easier!
Ive been spending my lockdown doing exactly this to my Peugeot 106, the more you weld the more holes you find, one day ill get to the point where ill have replaced the entire underbody. Time for some shultz for us both I think!
I watch these while working from home (shh don't tell anyone) and always watch them in the morning with a cup of coffee. Thank you for these videos during lockdown - I have been subscribed since you had less than 2k subscribers. Keep it up :)
Thanks for coming along, I really appreciate putting the time in to watch!
Nice watching the Volvo getting better! Keep up and stay safe. 😎👍
I love your Volvo 740. I think its brill. I love listening to you talk. The way you think is similar to the way I think in many ways. Thanks for the show. Pete. UK
My 740 has got a hole in exactly the same place. I haven't got to that one yet though, I'm still on hole number 4. Which is passenger side rear wheel arch / sill area. The hole by the battery is hole number 9!!! Thanks for your videos they're awesome
If the rust, they all rust there. I used to have a very good 940, with a small hole behind the battery. No rust anywhere else, if you buy an 7xx/9xx series Volvo always check that area.
The 740 still looks nice from your valet a few weeks ago. It'll all be worth it. The previous owner will be proud. Stay safe Matt.
Its very dusty now but still looks good. I hope I can take it back to him to see soon
@@furiousdriving I think that's a really nice idea. I've thought about taking my MK4 Golf to the previous owner a few times, but I don't know if that would be perceived as odd, seeing as normal folk aren't into cars like all of us? I have written to him a couple of times and have received a reply back on both such occasions. I also have a telephone number from previous invoices, but how much is too much? I would also like to take the car to where I believe the original dealership was, which closed around 8-10 years ago - and is now just a block of flats. I find it saddening that the history is already lost of a car from 2004 - it isn't that old. I know he traded the car into Volkswagen Beadles in Bromley for a new Volkswagen SV. Quite how the car got from there to the seller that I purchased it from I'm not sure. I have no paperwork or records to indicate that it was sold at auction... There was only about three weeks in it between him part exchanging it and me first viewing it. Remember when the V5 had the previous keeper's details?! ;)
I had the estate version (1989) of this. Rust was never a problem. It did 250,000 miles without ever using oil. The only problems I had were brake discs wearing too quickly and the rear suspension being too soft. Driven carefully it would return 40 mpg.
I changed to a 940 Wentworth LPT estate with the extra seats in the boot. which had better acceleration, but having an electric cooling fan it didn't sound as nice as the old one:)
It developed an oil leak at the crank seal, a few weeks after I bought it, in Bristol.
This made me suspicious that it had done more than the claimed 72K miles. My mate, a senior Volvo technician here in N. Ireland checked on the dealer computer and found that 3 years previously it was serviced at a dealership and the mileage recorded at 145K. Trading Standards in Bristol dealt with my attempt to get my money back, rather than the branch here,. It seemed to be just too much bother for them and they didn't pursue the seller, and probably reckoned that I was too far away to be able to push them. I didn't get anywhere, so I lost about £5,000 - the difference between what I paid and what the car was worth. That was my last Volvo!
The more I see of the Volvo 740 the more I like them as they represent great value for money today as they look so good and are generally solid.Lots on You Tube from USA,this one from England and from Sweden with similar problems easily fixed.
I definitely admire your tenacity on this project. Once you do one problem, another seems to pop up. As for a trest drive, a run to the shops is essential.
Another off the road checklist done! And you are getting projects done!
Check tomorrows video (Members get to see it tonight!)
Good work Matt. Nice to see the Volvo getting better bit by bit. Wish I had a project like this (I'm no mechanic though..slight problem!) rather than constant garden weeding. Oh and that Digestive biscuit deserves to be on the ground. Bourbon all the way! 😉👍
Digestives are so versatile, dunk them, have them with cheese, chocolate coated, they can do anything!
Regarding welding near a magnet, magnetism affects the arc and can push/pull it around, same can happen without a magnet because the welder itself creates magnetic fields, moving the ground to a different position can help
I have noticed that once those hard plastic bumpers get deformed, they stay that way, so replacing it sounds like a good idea. It's looking better all the time. Cheers.
It might heat up and reshape, I suspect not!
Drop links are a pita to get undone, i watched Eric O of SMA remove them with a cut off wheel in seconds, and that’s what I now do if replacing, if they won’t undo you can guarantee they need replacing anyway. Good to see progress.
Rust, it's get bloody everywhere 😂
As a 7/940 fan I’m loving all the Volvo work your doing. Keep it up 👍
Thanks 👍
What can I say? No real disasters, all progress. Hope you get your new lamp assy (and sell the other one!)
Hi Matt, great video,with all this welding I would be keeping it,but things need to be done for the MOT,a good solid car to drive.
Thanks for another video on the Volvo great job looking good
Thanks 👍
If your front side lights are like ours in North America, the bulbs are both what we know as 1157 bulbs for a reason. I think, like the 240, the side light housing is the same, but with different lenses. Ours are all clear, but the lamps must illuminate as amber, both side light and turn signal. Back then, the only amber bulbs for the side lights were the lower output filament of an 1157NA, or natural amber. Here, both bulbs are that, where yours are the clear 1157 for both with the amber lens on the turn signal.
yes, we have all clear bulbs here as the running lights are white, Ive been looking around for some today but not found them yet
Thanks Matt enjoyable,as always.
When changing end-links, you can also use a jack to compress the suspension.... The plastic bumper may be fixable if you use a heat gun, but yeah, new bit is better - the shocks holding the bumper are probably also gone/pushed in (if you have them, might be a US only thing). Sometimes you can pull them out, but they will always collapse back.
I tried the jack but it got in the way of the bolt!
"Yayyy the heat induction tool!" We love it too 👍
Hadn't come across this before. Amazing thing
Its the best, I almost want stuck bolts now!
The videos with the Volvo are the best ones!
Mercifully the weather is on your side for now! 😃
Hope it stays dry for a few more jobs!
Got to do a couple ball joints on my own daily. nice job mate bummer about the bumper and crash bar 👌👌
This Volvo just goes to show, an old car can have lovely bodywork but still have quite a bit of rust underneath.
Loving the backwards flame cap!
Because Im a rebel. and cool.
Having seen non impact sockets shatter on them guns please get some impact sockets. (personal experience taking a rover k series crank bolt out).
I do need to just havnt got to that that yet
That heat induction tool looks like a great bit of kit, much safer than a blow torch.
It's far more expensive too, about 500-600 pounds, not worth the price sorry
Much safer, as fast or faster and can be used anywhere near other damageable components without the risk
Another brilliant v log 😁
1:21 Those Steelies look cool enough to get banded...
they do dont they...
It's Volvo time! Yes. Maybe you could get some more digestive biccies at the shop too.
Considering the size of the front bumper, it probably was a rather more than gentle bump at the front. As the saying goes, "you should see the other bloke".
Whats left of him..
The 740 might have rust, but that makes it more of a challenge for you, since it proves that you can work on any car, that you are not afraid add I'd to take a challenge. 👌🏽👌🏽👌🏽👌🏽👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
A credit to Volvo when you consider how well the car stood the test of time. there are 1987 cars here that are just rust spots on the ground now. Cheers and stay safe.
I know you love that heat induction tool, but I find a decent long breaker bar to be the ideal tool when you can’t get your impact wrench in there. I have been doing suspension joints now that I’m at home and the weather is better, because I’m not in a rush I’m also soaking rusted nuts in penetrating oil and leaving them overnight before even trying.
This was soaked in oil all week and even after the heat still needed a jack to crack it, that was tight!
Try and straighten the crashbar... block of wood and a bottle jack behind it might be worth a go. Thumbs up for the welding.
Aluminium gets weak when its hammered, hopefully not expensive from a breakers
Hey mate, the volvos from 89 on, if im not mistaken, was extra zinced, fewer rust...yours is 88, just before i guess, keeps you sharp in welding😎
Plastic has a memory. If you replace the crash bar and put the plastic cover on and heat it up with a heat gun it will return back to its original shape. Done it many times with wavy fiat x1/9 bumper trims
Thanks!
Love volvos stronger then Alfa mate please keep this Volvo mate go on forever my dad owns a mercedes w202 c180 with 165,000 miles still going strong good car my dad had a Volvo 240 gle good car. Loved that car when in UK are u mate love watching your videos mate legend
I had a 1989 Volvo 740 GLE Estate, lovely car, dark blue velour interior, so comfy and warm compared to the cold leather alternative, as with my present V70 D5, so cold in winter and boiling in summer !
I maybe wrong but I would say that the front tyre you took off has been fitted the wrong way round ! the tread pattern is pointing backwards whereas the nearside was pointing forward ! just an observation !!
I dont think these are directional but will take a look! I need 2 more for the back so if they are Ill swap them around
Oh sir, can I possibly take the tension of another episode in your Volvo restoration series? Nice original Volvo branded battery too!
This is ridiculously original, its rather wonderful
@@furiousdriving, you aren't complaining about being able to keep the car for a bit longer, are you?
Do make sure you thoroughly check the water drain under the battery tray as it frequently gets blocked with debris that get washed down there by the rain. If the drain is blocked then it can allow the water to build up to a level where it is washing round the bottom of the battery and collecting the acidic material that always collects there, therefore setting up the ideal situation for rust. It looks like yours still has the original drain grommet in, no surprise on such an original car, of the same type that is often used in car boots to allow water to drain, so taking that out and giving it a thorough clean and test for function, as they can sometimes harden up and fail to work correctly, would be a good idea. Some people remove them entirely, which cures the water drain issue, but it also exposes the battery area to road spray, which can cause the same issues...
It looked like it was quite clear down there, but I had blasted a lot of cleaner and water when I jet washed the engine bay recently
@@furiousdriving Yes, that'll probably have shifted a lot of the muck that would have built up down there while it was largely sitting, and probably for a good period before. Taking the battery and tray out every year or 6 months and having a clean down there will do a long way to making sure you're not having to repeat the welding again in a few years. As regards the front bumper, I strongly suspect you'll get away with just replacing the metal bumper bar, the plastic covers are extremely tough and pretty flexible so, once your cover is refitted to a straight bar, and is positioned correctly under the metal on the top, it will return to shape quite quickly. Using a heat gun carefully may help, but equally just leaving it parked with the front end in the sun may go a long way to allowing the plastic to return to its original shape. Plus, finding a replacement bumper cover that hasn't been ruined by people bashing it into things could be difficult as most 7s have big scrapes and gouges in the plastic caused by people misjudging the length of the front end and scraping or scuffing against something else...
Matt, I know Ian Seabrook has mentioned watching Mustie1 on TH-cam and I'm pretty sure you have, too. What do you UK-based folks think of his conclusion that after many years of fighting the similarly wicked rust from New England's salty roads, bar and chain oil that's been slightly diluted with kerosene (I think you call it paraffin) to allow it to flow into every nook, cranny and pore, then sprayed on the undercarriage, is the best strategy for minimizing the further progress of rust. Better, he believes (from his own experience) than underseal.
You need an extension on that spanner or a breaker bar, much more effective than that heat thing.
Not always, you can still shear or round of a bolt with a breaker
Welding in a couple of alumalloy rods in the rusted spots should do the trick
A Sooty reference! "Izzy wizzy let's get busy". Haven't heard that since the 1980s.
Always up to date here..
That indicator lamp looks like a 940 type unit. The only 700 series it will fit are the 760 and 740 turbo facelift.
Now Ive looked at those online yes...
The best car that i have owned was a 1990 740 GL estate, at its 2011 MOT the inspector called me over and said look, i thought problems, no he said this is in better condition than many cars we see at their first MOT, the underside no rust anywhere so i am surprised by your troubles.
For the crash bar tie it around a tree and put reverse , it will straighten straight away! Make sure you don't over do it
Ive done that before, but this has more of a twist to it
great video as always - what welding kit do you use? perhaps a quick overview video?
Its an old Machine Mart/Clarke thing, pretty basic and only has 2 settings - not quite enough and too much! When I get a better one Ill do that
Really enjoy the 740 videos. How do you rate the engineering on the Volvo vs the Merc W123?
Very similar, both very solid and use high quality metal and fittings, but the Volvo feels more simply engineered and everything on the W123 more complex
@@furiousdriving Mercedes are still in the Victorian age, everything over engineered. Teutonic thinking. It also means everything is twice the price.
Loved your video today how is it going with the Mercedes starting wise I have an idea there is a guy in America Josh lynburg and he did a video were he rigged a fuel tank under the bonnet with 6 holes in a Jerry can and 6 hoses and what happens the 3 pipes go into the air box with the end sealed up and 3 more pipes going out the grill to allow the petrol in the tank to bubble thus causing the car to start on gas and it does away with the problem of a faulty fuel system just look on TH-cam for cars running on fuel vapour it's called a hillbilly thing but works hope this helps danny
Ive got someone who knows how and has the kit lined up to to look at it but that was before lockdown...so frustrating
Going by the gongs at 2:45 ish you started at 11am
Thats my neighbour building a kitchen!
Mine doesnt start but cranks, i read a lacking signal from a default flywheelsensor, just behind the firewall in middle...does it sound familiar for u volvo friends? Its a bf 2300 with lamda electronic injection...ps matt yrs sounds like a diesel indeed! Nice project man, be proud of it! bob Belgium🇧🇪
The indicator is to a volvo 760 from 87 and up and it The same to volvo 940. So its not a facelift indicator. The new indicator came 90 on volvo 740 and are a bit sorter then to 940.
Try applying some heat to the bumper with a heat gun (if you have one) and it should move back to its original position. I would remove the headlight and indicator first.
Need to get the crash bar out first!
I suspect a battery has exploded or leaked in the past - none of my three 740s had any rot there! Great job though and video Matt! Really miss my 740s
Could be but some folks are saying its a common spot
Almost all 740 rust under The battery tray. As long as it goes on sakty roads. Here in sweden 99% of The 740 is welded in The battery tray. And on most parts of The body.
@@furiousdriving it is a common spot.
@@fredrikjacobsson25 presumably, that means every 740 owner will have to make an assault on the battery tray...boom boom!
@@jsteel8288 yes IF they drive on sakty roads. The 740 is The worst car to rust that Volvo made
Yeah the Volvo!
Wow, Dave Barton gave you permission to sell his Prancing Moose artwork? That's awesome.
I drew my own in Photoshop
As a Volvo buff myself i’m absolutely loving your work on the 740 Matt 😀🇸🇪 Do you keep an inventory of all the work (and cost) that you undertake on each of your cars? Ive had my C30 since almost new 11 years ago and have kept everything in a folder (i’m just like that 😉).
I keep all the receipts for everything on all the cars but try not to add it up... Have you seen the first episode of this car and all the paperwork that came with it? Almost every receipt and the brochure!
Yip, ive been following each step with great interest 😉🚗🇸🇪
Time the lockdown is over you will be a welding guru.
Or never weld again!
Heat the bumper cap up should to back to shape
You must hate rust?? Another cracking video
its the worst
All those joints mine are starting to go on my body not my car may the weld be with you !
Got to do them on the Alfa as well..
I've just watched this, that Draper impact wrench - how good is it? I'm in the market for one and the prices of even a low-end De-walt make me cringe.
Planet Auto Favourite for the win
Thought you would have changed the drop link on both sides..
I did the bushes in the other in a previous video, I had bushes for this when the top twisted off so had to replace the whole thing
Oh by the way, remove the headliner before scrubbing off the yellow stuff. Very hard to remove the dust from your interior!
I dont think you can without taking a window out, they snap if you try to bend them through the door as people suggest - Im going with dust sheets!
@@furiousdriving I think it is possible if you remove the passenger front seat. That was the case with the 850 at least. Makes glueing the new cloth onto the carrier much simpler!
So the welder doesn't make a perfect tea shelf if it's windy?
Not for biscuits. Welder upgrade needed
I just got some sandpaper and paint from Halfords - click and collect. 😀 BTW, why do I like that Volvo so much? It doesn’t compute with anything I normally like! (ie. weird French and borderline tat Japanese).
Its weird isnt it? Its lovely but terrible at the same time!
Im confused by the rules. The shops are open for click and collect but you're only supposed to go out for essentials... this morning I flew my drone to keep my pilot hours practice log topped up, this afternoon the CAA changed the rules to dont worry about your hours anymore!
Old cars need welding 😂
What impact gun have you got please?
Its a Draper 55343 from the D20 range - this is it: amzn.to/2xHQf4C
got the link for the indicator?
Not listed it yet but if your interested email me at bodyintheboot@gmail.com
What welder do u have??
An old Clarke MIG thing
Are you having a loft conversion matt?
sadly not, or a new garage, next doors new kitchen!
@@furiousdriving oh OK I see big long steels and see roof ladders on his van
I still don’t understand why you don’t give yourself better access to link removal by turning wheels full lock left. Also I had the unfortunate incident in my 145 Volvo. When some backed out of angle parking . The Bumpers are an alloy composition, The panel beater explained the metal stretches as it bends, leaving fractured stress marks . Nearly impossible to get back into shape. Rust in Australia only happens with neglect, warm sunshine is our saviour. Lol
Only because theres so much space under the arch you dont need to, you can climb in there with it!
Exactly, the more you hammer a piece of metal the weaker it gets, and chances are it will still be wonky. Breakers yard time
I bet the other car your Volvo hit was a complete right off. While you just had a slightly deformed front bumper cross member. 😂
Someone somewhere recently said they dont know why Rover extended the indicators on the R8, interesting that Volvo did the same too around the same era. Appearance or safety, I am not sure.
must have been a requirement for side markers in some countries so all the cars get facelift
If you'd not been filming, that bolt would have come out easy, it just wanted to prove you wrong lol
Was that drop link clonking I need to have mine off and replace my trusty rusty 740 estate
No, but the bushes were cracked were going to fail the next MOT
furiousdriving well done loving that old Volvo of yours
So you need to have indicator from 83-89 volvo 740
yes, as I said I didnt realise there was a facelift!